Frame house- lightweight and very simple, it can be built in short term. Such structures are becoming increasingly popular. Buildings are being erected on summer cottages both for seasonal and permanent residence. When constructing buildings using this technology, it is necessary to take into account only one detail - the period of residence. In the article we will give step by step instructions for construction frame house with your own hands.
Choosing a foundation
Since frame houses are very light, a particularly powerful foundation is not required here; the following types can be installed:
- screw piles;
- columns;
- shallow tape.
Much when laying a foundation depends on the type of soil and the number of storeys of the structure. So, when building a simple one-story house You can completely get by with a columnar one even on capricious soil.
Columnar foundation
- In order to build a small house for one average family on a columnar foundation, you need to purchase about 120–150 columns for the foundation.
- Using a regular drill, you need to make holes in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of about a meter. The distance between the holes is about 80 cm.
- Then asbestos cement pipes (columns) are inserted into the holes. The remaining space next to the pipes must be compacted, filled with crushed stone and sand.
- Through a funnel, a cement solution must be poured into the holes of the posts.
Having installed such a foundation, you don’t even have to wait for the solution to harden to continue working.
Screw pile foundation
On screw piles you can build a house without involving a team of workers. To install piles, on the contrary, it is advisable to use manual labor. This is due to the fact that such work allows the piles to be screwed in strictly to the level without deviations.
When screwing in piles, one basic rule must be remembered: screwing out piles again is strictly prohibited. Even if one of them was installed incorrectly, it is better to simply leave it in the same position than to disturb the compacted soil.
Unscrewing piles is the main mistake of all beginners.
Construction stages
There are two construction technologies frame houses: Finnish and Canadian. However, the principles of constructing such structures themselves are the same.
Construction stages:
- Frames are used to build a house. They can be wooden or steel depending on the wishes of the owner. Today, wooden ones made of timber are most widespread. They are economical, environmentally friendly and easy to install. Steel frames are about a third more expensive. However, they are somewhat lighter in weight, which allows you to save on the foundation. IN steel structures can be used without fear steel fasteners. But for wood it is better to choose wooden dowels.
- First of all, we need to make the floor. To do this, you should put roofing felt on the base of the floor. Next, you need to install a beam around the perimeter, which will serve as the basis for installing the subfloor. The subfloor is made from the most inexpensive material - not edged boards.
- Before installing the subfloor, you need to make joists and put insulation between them, which will protect against cold and moisture. Before laying, it is better to pre-treat the boards with impregnations against rotting and dampness.
- When the floor is ready, you need to assemble the walls. They are first mounted on some flat surface, and only then installed. It is advisable to choose an absolutely flat place in order to knock down the frame of each wall, otherwise distortions may occur. On each side of the walls it is necessary to make jibs that will support the racks.
- When installing walls, you need to take into account the desired ceiling height. It is better if it is within 2.5 meters. This ensures that after decorative finishing it will not become lower than 2.3 meters. Usually low ceilings depress and cause unpleasant feelings.
- The house is covered with boards.
- Window installation is of no small importance. According to technology, their size should not exceed 20% of the wall size. When glazing, you can choose any double-glazed windows. If you plan to live in a house all year round, then it is better to choose triple sealed double-glazed windows.
After the frame is assembled and sheathed, and the roof is ready, it is necessary to begin decorative finishing of the structure. The house can be finished with clapboard, siding or sandwich panels. When finishing the roof, care should be taken to ensure that it does not leak. It is better to lay a layer of heat insulation and waterproofing material between the joists. A modern material such as metal tiles is well suited for external covering.
Insulation of the house
Before insulating a house, you need to select materials. Insulation is carried out from the inside and outside. Interior finishing is best done using mineral wool and plasterboard. If desired, you can use vinyl plasterboard inside, which not only retains all the thermal insulation properties of this material, but also has excellent aesthetic characteristics. Thus, the master will simultaneously solve the problem with insulation and decorate the room.
External insulation is carried out until finishing. Thermal insulation still needs to be done.
- First they frame the house. A layer of mineral wool is laid between the lathing slats.
- Polystyrene foam is placed on top of the mineral wool.
- The gaps between the foam plates and the racks are foamed with ordinary foam. polyurethane foam.
- Insulation of the outer part of the frame can be done without lathing.
The interior is insulated in almost the same way. It is necessary to lay the material between the pillars of the house, and then additionally cover it with foam plastic.
Features of arranging a vapor barrier for a frame house
Vapor barrier is simply necessary in any room. Especially if it is a residential building with a kitchen, bathroom and other places high humidity. It has been noted that in such rooms the moisture level can be even higher than in the open air.
Vapor barrier installation is often done incorrectly.
- The main mistake is using vapor barriers instead of factory ones. homemade materials and polyethylene. Vapor barrier film, despite its similarity to polyethylene, has a special structure. It's multi-layered.
- Incorrect and poor-quality installation of the vapor barrier. Sometimes during the installation of the membrane, builders can tear it or damage the seams. It also often happens that the membrane does not adhere well to the walls.
- Installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the outside of the house. Windproof layers are usually made on the outside. And the vapor barrier must be installed only from the inside. By the way, during installation you should make sure that the membrane is installed on the right side.
The vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the heat-insulating layer. The fact is that it is the heat insulator that is most often damaged by condensation. Therefore it must be protected. If steam gets inside, then after about a couple of seasons the owner of the house will discover that the insulation has stopped functioning. The culprit here is moisture, which caused the appearance of cracks in this layer. If the defect is not eliminated, it will only get worse. Soon the steam will reach the boards.
Typically, the thickness of the walls of a frame house consists of 70% insulation. If the insulating layer is destroyed, the structure will collapse very quickly.
When installing a vapor barrier, you must remember that the building must “breathe”. It must contain natural movement of air masses.
Installing polyethylene instead of special membranes destroys ventilation processes. This causes the destruction of the house. Dampness, mold and mildew begin to appear in the premises. Forced ventilation is unlikely to save the situation.
No material is as destructive as polyethylene. It completely seals the room. Considering that in modern houses there are also sealed double-glazed windows and double doors, you can imagine what the atmosphere would be like in such a room.
Photos of interesting solutions
Video: self-building a house using frame technology
Construction wooden houses frame construction has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such fast growth The number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very fast process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.
The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the façade of a house is decorated with one of the modern materials that imitate brick, wood or stone, then its walls will be impossible to distinguish from solid ones.
Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of an entire team. If you decide to carry out construction yourself and complete it during the warm and dry summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. In case the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction to at least the rafter structure and the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.
What is frame construction?
If we consider in general, then frame construction the house consists of a lower and upper frame, which fastens the vertically installed posts that form the frame of the external and internal walls. The base for the floors and attic ceiling consists of load-bearing beams made from timber. The rafter system is also erected from beams, and roof covering. It is desirable that it does not have too much mass.
Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.
How to insulate a frame house?
When choosing, you need to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for a frame house, the flammability of the material and its stability are of great importance .
On the pages of our portal there are many materials that tell in detail.
After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - this can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (CSP).
Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw foundation is suitable for it, and if you plan to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose a strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the base part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.
Foundation for a frame structure
Any construction begins with a foundation, and as stated above, you can choose any type of it (except, perhaps, a monolithic “floating” slab - there is no need for it).
Marking of future construction and earthworks
Before you start digging trenches for the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the overall volume of work, will depend on it. So How Not have to make unnecessary efforts to redo the foundation if it is initially determined exact coordinates and sizes.
- Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists of installing wooden stakes with stretched cords that visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.
This kind of “blueprint” defines everything load-bearing walls structure if a strip foundation is chosen. If you are planning a columnar or pile-screw version, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).
- Trenches can be dug manually or, if you need to carry out this process quickly, use a special construction equipment, with the help of which this entire operation will take place in one day.
- To dig holes under a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, ordinary hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes much faster required diameter to the required depth.
These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have it on site additional area and free travel to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost many times more.
- At the stage of digging a pit, sewerage is carried out. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the soil freezing level in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.
If a columnar foundation is being installed, then the section of pipe running from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.
Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.
Construction of the foundation
In order to specifically focus on one type of foundation, you need to understand what they are.
Strip foundation
This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip with a reinforcement grid in its design. The height of the basement can be different, but if the house construction plan includes basement, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, and in this case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, we must not forget about ventilation holes, which will not allow moisture to accumulate under the building.
"Classic" strip foundation If you immediately take measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.
Columnar foundation
1 – foundation pillar;
2 – strapping beams;
3 – floor beams;
4 – subfloor joists.
A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars located in the correct order, according to the markings. The supports are buried depending on the types and location of soil layers in the area and the massiveness of the future structure.
Are you choosing a columnar foundation?
For a frame house on stable ground - very good decision. All installation details can be found in a special article.
Pile-screw foundation
A screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed to the required depth at points, according to the markings carried out in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground surface, is tied with a metal grillage or metal jumpers, and then with a powerful beam. This will become the basis for bottom trim the frame structure itself.
The good thing about the pile-screw design is that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rough area, with a difference in height - then bringing the piles to one horizontal level will not be difficult. to the same height.
It will not be possible to screw in screw piles on your own - you will have to either invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.
Prices for cement and basic mixtures
Cement and base mixtures
Construction of the frame
Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof– platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the pillars or tape), on which the lower frame beam will be installed, is covered with roofing felt, which will create a moisture-proof gasket.
The roofing material is spread in several layers, preferably using a “hot” method on tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.
Bottom harness
The harness is made of timber measuring 150×150 or 200×150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and secured to the foundation supports (strip) using pins or anchors, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is constructed from.
Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.
At the end of this work, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can support the main structure of the frame. In the case when the timber used does not have the proper cross-sectional size, two, and sometimes three, parts are stacked one on top of the other.
Moreover, the upper beam of the trim is mounted on the lower beam so that possible places butt joints, if any, did not fall one above the other.
If the wooden frame is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width coincides with the width of the concrete base.
Basement beams and flooring
Beams basement floor
The strength qualities of the frame depend to the maximum extent on the quality and cross-section of the frame beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross-section depends on both the length of the spans and the spacing of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:
Table of cross-sections of floor beams for a frame building:
| Cross-section of 1st grade lumber used | Span length (mm) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3000 | 3500 | 4000 | 4500 | 5000 | 5500 | 6000 | |
| Attic floor | |||||||
| Board | |||||||
| 160×50 | 1200 | 900 | 650 | 500 | 420 | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1850 | 1350 | 1050 | 800 | 650 | 550 | 450 |
| 180×80 | 2400 | 1750 | 1350 | 1050 | 850 | 700 | 600 |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | - | 1800 | 1480 | 1200 | 1050 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 2400 | 2000 | 1650 | 1400 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | - | 2500 | 2000 | 1750 |
| Basement and interfloor ceilings | |||||||
| Board | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 160×50 | 800 | 600 | 450 | - | - | - | - |
| 200×50 | 1250 | 900 | 700 | 550 | 450 | - | - |
| 180×80 | 1200 | 1200 | 900 | 700 | 650 | 450 | - |
| timber | Distance between adjacent beams (mm) | ||||||
| 140×180 | - | - | 1550 | 1200 | 1300 | 800 | 700 |
| 150×200 | - | - | - | 1650 | 1700 | 1000 | 900 |
| 160×220 | - | - | - | 2000 | 1900 | 1400 | 1100 |
- The next step is securing the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which cuts are made in both elements.
The beams should give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the building area is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each room separately.
- After the installation of the basement floor beams is completed, flooring will be required for further work. And this is where many craftsmen prefer to install floors themselves, and advise beginners, to immediately install floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative covering). However, with this option of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of dense polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
- All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.
- At the same stage it is necessary to raise sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewerage pipe will be passed.
Sub flooring
- To lay the subfloor, skull blocks are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
- Next comes laying and securing the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less ventilated.
Installation of insulating floor pie
- The next step is to cover the subfloor and floor beams with a waterproofing membrane, which uses dense polyethylene. It is usually secured using staples.
- Next, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If you plan to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.
- A layer is laid on top of the insulation vapor barrier film, and then either a floorboard or sheet material is fixed to the beams. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.
Recently, instead of plywood, it is often used cement bonded particle boards, which can be used not only for floor coverings, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and performance characteristics, is not inferior, and in some ways even superior to its “competitors”.
The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of them and help you make a choice.
| Characteristics | Rating the material using a 5-point system | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Average score | 2.9 | 3 | 3.3 | 3.6 | 4.1 |
| MDF | Chipboard | Plywood | OSB | DSP | |
| Strength | 2 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Resistance to external aggressive influences | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
| Dimensional stability | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| Weight | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 |
| Manufacturability of machining | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| Manufacturability of painting | 5 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 4 |
| Defects: knots, delamination, delamination, etc. | 5 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 5 |
Sheets of floor covering material are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or other covering is fixed to the joists.
It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing felt sheets are often laid with an overlap of 150 ÷ 200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic using a “hot” method.
Construction of the wall frame, top trim
Once the bottom chord is finished, you can proceed to the construction of the wall frame. First of all, it is necessary to install corner posts, which usually have a larger cross-section than intermediate ones.
- The racks should be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is the standard width of insulation mats, but if necessary, they can be placed with a different pitch, for example, 400 mm. You can attach intermediate posts, just like corner posts, in different ways:
- The racks can first be secured using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create rigidity of the structure.
- Another option would be to install the racks on the strapping belt at the time when the floor is already installed, or before its installation.
— If fastening is carried out after the floor has been laid, then grooves are cut out near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and secured to the beam and frame using self-tapping screws.
- If the racks are attached before installing the floor, this can be done using an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to inside racks and strapping beams.
— The third option is to install racks with diagonal supports (mitters), which are installed on both sides and screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed.
— The fourth method of attaching racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a frame or into an additional reinforcing beam nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.
- When installing racks, you cannot forget about window and doorways. They are designated by transverse bars, which for rigidity are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing posts. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.
- Each of the racks is verified with the greatest care vertically in two planes using building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper slats, which will fix them in the correct position.
- When the racks stand rigidly enough, they must be united with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally secured using corners or spacer slopes, secured diagonally.
- The top frame beams must have the same width as vertical racks. Their reliable fastening is given Special attention, since they will become the basis for the beams attic floor and, therefore, all rafter system generally.
- To ensure that the structure of the wall frame is strong, after installing the top frame, it is recommended to immediately cover the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. The sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to the vertical posts.
Prices for various types of timber
Video - The biggest mistakes when building a frame house
Attic beams and roof structure
Once the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, the attic floor beams can be installed.
- They are fixed exactly above the studs of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as a material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them to 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or board of the top trim.
Fastening is done using a metal corner, which is screwed on one side to the frame and the other to the beam. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.
- Next, you can proceed to the installation of the rafter system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the attic floor beams, on which you can move during the work process.
Prices for different types of tiles
Roof tiles
Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house
Insulation and finishing works
After that To Once the roof has been erected over the house, external windows and doors should be installed. This process is carried out before insulation work so that all cracks and gaps that may form during the installation of window and door units can be simultaneously closed. After this, you can move on to insulating the walls, attic floor and roof.
Walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this, thermal insulation materials are used, which have already been mentioned in our publication.
- If the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then a wall is installed from the inside between the racks, which then must be covered on top with a vapor barrier film.
- For additional insulation thermal insulation materials are installed and outside walls To do this, a sheathing is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.
A windproof, vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.
- Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:
— cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;
- a subfloor is laid on them;
— the floor is covered with waterproofing;
- then goes insulation material(expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, polystyrene foam, etc.);
— the insulation is covered with waterproofing on top;
- boards or plywood of the “white” attic floor are mounted on top of it.
- It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat escapes through ceilings and the roof. To do this, insulation is laid between the rafters, which is covered with a vapor barrier on the attic side, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-bonded particle boards or moisture-resistant plasterboard.
The sheathing can be secured to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal batten.
- Having finished insulation work you can move on to the external cladding of the house decorative material. It can be chosen to suit every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, “block house” or other modern materials.
Siding with insulation is a solution to several problems at once!
The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather conditions, and the house itself acquires completeness, neatness and individuality.
How – read in a special publication on our portal.
- Internal lining can also be done in different ways:
- plasterboard, making perfectly smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;
— wooden clapboard, making the house cozy and bringing natural freshness into it;
- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.
Interior decoration frame house - at the request of the owners At the end of the finishing work, they are installed around windows and doors. decorative panels– slopes and platbands.
If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be added after all the work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build it together with the walls.
Electrics can be installed both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after finishing the cladding with decorative material. The latter installation method has recently been used more and more often, since it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out renovation work without opening the decorative trim. However, modern technologies allow you to use other options.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house - special attention!
Say what you will, but there is a fire hazard wooden house always higher than stone. Any “liberties” in electrical installation are simply unacceptable!
How to install it correctly is described in detail in a special article on the portal.
If you decide to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, or better yet, several. In this situation, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.
The main thing is to act in accordance with the technological instructions during the construction process when performing all types of work, to carry them out carefully, harmoniously and consistently.
And finally, to complete the overall picture, here is a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages of frame houses.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video: frame house - “pros” and “cons”
The construction of frame houses is becoming increasingly popular in Russia. All new technologies are being introduced into the construction of such structures, and it does not matter what technology - Finnish or Canadian - the house is built using. In this article we will tell you how to build a frame house with your own hands, give step-by-step instructions, as well as diagrams, photos and videos of phased construction.
Foundation
Since frame houses are recommended to be built no higher than two floors, they do not require a massive foundation. A strip foundation, a prefabricated concrete block foundation, or a columnar foundation are suitable. The most important thing is that they fulfill their main purpose - to ensure the rigidity of the frame in space.
To do this in strip foundation Reliable and durable reinforcement is used, and in the columnar type - a wooden or concrete grillage.
Frame installation
Frame houses are built using wooden or metal structures. At self-construction the latter are rarely used, they increase the cost of construction by 40-45%, but their use allows you to save financial costs on the construction of the foundation, this is due to the lightness of metal structures.
A wooden frame is best built from oak, but it can also be made from other types of wood. The timber must be made of high-quality wood with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. Corner joints must have no gaps. Choose a tongue-and-groove connection method.
Note! A metal connection is undesirable, since wood rots when it comes into contact with metal. Over time, such fasteners will weaken and the house will begin to loosen. Wooden dowels will provide reliable and durable fastening, and this guarantees a long service life of the frame house.
The frame must be braced with braces; they give the house rigidity. The technology for constructing a frame house provides for the installation of three braces. They are made from the same material as the stands.
The outside of the house is sheathed with boards or clapboards no more than 60 mm wide and at an angle of 45°. Old craftsmen do not advise nailing them firmly; during the first year of use they can swell and dry out.
Floor
The manufacture of a frame house floor begins with laying wooden beam sections 150x50 mm along the perimeter of the walls.
Note! It must first be treated with an antiseptic solution.
The timber should be laid on roofing felt and secured with anchor bolts every two meters. Pay special attention to the alignment of the corners, check them using a level. Possible deviation 10 mm.
First, the logs are installed, then a subfloor is made from cheap edged boards, insulation is laid between the logs, and then the floorboards are installed.
Walls
After installing the floor, you can begin building the walls. It is best to make them in sections. They are assembled on a dry surface from timber, equal in length to the height of the future room. You choose the width of the beam installation step yourself, usually it is 300, 400, 600 mm.
Note! All wooden parts frame house must be made of the same type of wood.
Window
According to accepted building regulations windows should make up 18% of the wall area. Try to stick to these sizes. In a house for year-round use, it is better to install double-glazed windows with a large glass area.
Roof
Roof frame - main part the entire structure of the house. The frame bears most of the mechanical load. It must be manufactured according to accepted rules from quality material. If you do all this, you will have a reliable and long-lasting roof. Roofing material, insulation and waterproofing material you choose yourself based on your financial capabilities.
It is not difficult to build a frame house; you just need to follow all the rules prescribed by this technology. Then in the end you will get a beautiful and warm, reliable and durable home.
How and how to insulate a house
The insulation of a frame house depends on what role it will perform. If you are building a house for permanent residence, then the insulation must be appropriate. The house is a structure of racks arranged vertically, fastened with horizontal bars.
Note! They install in the voids between the bars thermal insulation material, lined with various finishing details on top.
What thermal insulation and finishing material you will use largely depends on the climatic conditions of the place where you live. There are tables indicating what thermal conductivity different materials have. For example, a 4 cm layer of polystyrene foam replaces 14 cm of wood or 86 cm of brick.
Video
We invite you to watch a series of videos about the construction of a frame house:
Photo
Scheme
We invite you to familiarize yourself with some schemes related to the construction of frame houses:
For me, it was a matter of principle to choose exactly the option when, with the least labor and material costs, you can quickly and efficiently build a full-fledged residential building for a family.
After studying several sources and many options, I decided to settle on the option, and took as a basis standard project"Canadian - 1".
I really liked this compact two-story house 7x7.5 m, and after making necessary calculations, I decided that such a project was well within my capabilities and means.
If there is sufficient quantity living rooms And household premises looks relatively small, and the cost of construction is several times less than during construction brick house the same dimensions.
A typical project provides for the consumption of materials in the following sizes:
Edged boards 5x15 cm - 25m3;
Roofing board 2.5x15 cm - 3m3;
Polystyrene foam for insulation - 25m3;
Rolled insulation insulation - 5 rolls;
Polyurethane foam - 30 fl;
OSB - 200 sheets;
Roof waterproofing - 3 rolls;
Soft roof - area 70 m2;
cement, tar, solvent, antiseptic, anchor bolts.
According to the project, on the ground floor there is a living room with a kitchen and a large dining room, a bathroom and a small hall with a vestibule from front door. The second floor consists of three living rooms, a small common hall and a fairly spacious bathroom. The project was also attracted by the fact that the garage has common wall with the house, which saves materials and provides additional thermal insulation.
I chose a project, prepared necessary materials for the first stage of work and began construction.
Before you build a house with your own hands, we lay the foundation
A properly installed foundation is the key to how long a house will last and how comfortable it will be to live in. Since my site is located on the banks of a river and groundwater they stand high, in order to avoid dampness, I did not make a basement and decided to make a foundation according to TISE on concrete piles.
My goal was to build a house with my own hands cheaply, and therefore the option on poles suited me also because of its low cost.
For the piles, I used used asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 250 mm and a length of 2.5 m. I deepened the pipes into the ground by one and a half meters, so that a column 1 meter high emerged above the ground. I reinforced them with fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, filled them concrete mortar and secured No. 22 anchor bolts at the top of each post.
Within a month, I personally erected 24 pillars - the basis for the future house. The concrete in each column hardened within two weeks. This time was spent purchasing and delivering materials for tying the foundation.
As soon as the concrete had finally set, I started tying - I first selected grooves from the ends of the beam with a cross-section of 15 cm for better tying, and at the joints I deepened the sockets for fastening the anchor bolts.
According to my calculations, it took me a little more than 30,000 rubles to build this - the cost of the material.
In order to fix the frame as securely as possible when assembling the harness, I placed a wide washer under each nut - this way I tightened the nuts all the way without the risk of unnecessarily damaging the beams. As the work progressed, I simultaneously treated the entire structure with tar antiseptic and waterproofed it with construction tar.
In this form, the foundation easily survived the winter, and I was convinced that I had made the right choice.
To build a wooden house with your own hands, we begin to build the frame of the first floor and frame it
You can see from my step-by-step photos how to build a house with your own hands, without using heavy equipment, additional labor and unnecessary funds.
With the onset of the first fine spring days, I set about installing the walls of the first floor. The principle of constructing a frame dwelling is that the finished frame parts are installed in the proper place and secured there.
I assembled the structural elements piece by piece on a flat area, and then lifted them onto the foundation and alternately fastened them to the base and to each other. In addition, I assembled the technical openings for windows and doors separately and also lifted them onto the walls for fastening.
Since the structures are relatively small, I coped with this work practically alone, I just resorted to the help of my wife so that she would hold the structure while I was doing the fastenings.
Sheets of roofing material must be laid between the foundation and parts of the structure.
In a month I managed to put up three walls on the first floor.
When installing the structures, I ensured that the frame posts were spaced 60 cm apart from each other, since the standard width of the OSB sheet is 120 cm.
I adhered to the same principle when installing floor transfers.
It took me two more weekends to remove all the walls of the first floor - I really wanted to quickly build a house with my own hands.
Of course, thinking about how to build beautiful house with my own hands, I studied a lot of reference material, including the book “ Individual house“platform” - it was she who inspired me to create!
Taking the “Canadian” project as a basis, I made a frame during construction in accordance with the provided assembly technology. And although I changed some things during the work at my own discretion, I did not change the basis of the project in order to avoid improper distribution of the load on the load-bearing structural elements.
As a result, this is the frame I got for the first floor:
Simultaneously with raising the walls of the first floor, I began to assemble the frame of the future interfloor staircase.
The next step in solving the problem of how to build a frame house with your own hands is the process of tying the first floor.
To do this, we lay two layers of insulation along all the upper edges of the structure and then lay a 5 cm thick board along the entire perimeter.
Our ceiling joists are also floor transfers for the second floor. Therefore, we lay them apart from each other at intervals of 60 cm, attaching them to the harness.
Work in good weather goes well, and the results are obvious.
Now I know for sure that anyone can do it with their own hands wooden house build. This is a job in which the main thing is to comply with all the required standards and do everything with the utmost care - only then can you properly build a house with your own hands.
For those who are interested in this issue, my step by step photos build a frame house with your own hands.
This photo of me shows that the first floor frame and floors are completely completed. This is the beautiful “platform” I ended up with.
Work doesn't always go quickly, and on the next weekend I was able to do little - the intense heat got in the way. But the staircase, which I installed anyway, served as additional support and added rigidity to the overall structure of the first floor.
Still, a lot has been accomplished in a relatively short period of time, considering that I worked almost alone.
By the way, since according to the design there should be a two-meter wide balcony-terrace above the southern side of the house, I set the ceiling joists above this part of the first floor to the required length so that they protrude 2 meters beyond the boundary of the wall structure.
The wooden parts in the right places were additionally fastened together with metal corners. To screw in the screws, I used an electric drill with a special mount for self-tapping screws.
As a result, translations interfloor ceilings look like this:
Of course, it is difficult to calculate all construction costs in advance - there are many factors that influence changes in the final cost of the project. Moreover, you still need to solve the problem of how to build a beautiful house with your own hands, and not just put up a wooden box.
When building the foundation, frame of the first floor and floors, I spent about 80,000 rubles on materials.
The approximate amount I plan to spend to build a house made of wood with my own hands is 500 thousand rubles.
The next stage of completing the task of how to build a frame house with your own hands - we begin to build the second floor, and sheathe the structure with OSB sheets
It is very difficult to work in hot weather, especially at altitude. Therefore, construction is progressing slowly. I assemble the wall frame on the ground, then lift it and put it in place. If you work carefully during the assembly of structures, joining them at the fastening site does not present any difficulties.
The photo shows how the first wall of the second floor was installed:
On hot days it was impossible to work more than three to four hours, so in the middle of summer work slowed down a little. But as soon as the intense heat subsided, work continued at the same pace. At the same time as the side walls of the second floor, the end walls were also brought “under the roof”.
It was already difficult to work here alone to build a wooden house with your own hands, so he invited two assistants, and the heavy facade structures were lifted using ropes and inclined guides.
Along with the installation of the facade structures, they also made a screed along the ridge and starting rafters.
Having finished mounting wooden structures walls and ridge, I started covering the walls with panels - things went much more fun. First, I covered the corner parts of the walls with panels.
I tried to do the work of covering with OSB sheets in a few days - I didn’t want to take any risks and decided to protect the inside of the structures from the threat of getting wet during rains. You can see from my photos how I managed to build a house with my own hands almost alone.
How to build a house roof with your own hands?
This is exactly the question that confronted me as soon as I finished building the walls.
Before that, I did almost all the main work myself, occasionally resorting to outside help when it was necessary to support part of the structure or lift heavy façade parts to the second floor.
And now, in order to solve the question of how to build the roof of a house with your own hands, when it came to lathing the roof, I had to call another assistant, since I am not very successful at working on the rafters alone. The work was much more fun together.
Just like the ceilings of the first floor, I put a 5 cm thick board on the rafters, and also installed the rafters at intervals of 60 cm, so that I could then lay the OSB sheet on a base of three boards.
My assistant and I installed a vapor barrier on top of the rafters, using 3 rolls of roof hydraulic membrane.
On top vapor barrier material laid OSB sheets. They were lifted onto the roof in the same way as the façade frames.
One side of the roof has already been covered with OSB. There are small areas and one more slope left. Since autumn is approaching and the rains have become more frequent, I threw away all other things and began to work closely on the roof - in order to protect the frame from excessive wetting. The work is hard, but perseverance conquers everything, and a helper is very helpful.
On at this stage It took me 7 cubes of 150x50 boards to build; almost two - 200x50; and 65 sheets of OSB-on outer skin, without floor and partitions.
All the lumber has practically gone into use, only the smallest trimmings - no more than 20 cm, are stored for further use as fuel - on a fire or in a smokehouse. If you use materials sparingly and carefully, you can build a house with your own hands relatively cheaply.
But since this season I am physically unable to cover the house with siding, in order to prevent heavy and frequent rains from spoiling the material, I decided to treat the slabs with tar diluted in a solvent.
The house temporarily acquired a gloomy black appearance, but is now reliably protected from moisture and destruction.
How to build a wooden house with your own hands: insulation and sound insulation
When I had completed the exterior work, I did a little work during the rainy weather and internal part- insulated and at the same time soundproofed the floors with foam boards.
The gaps between the joints and walls were foamed with polyurethane foam using a gun. From the bottom I hemmed OSB sheets to the floor slabs of the first floor using wood screws, having previously supported them with spacers. This is very important in order to properly build a house with your own hands - in this way I not only protected internal structures from strong temperature changes, but also protected the foam from destruction by mice, which love to live in it.
The floor inside the room was covered separately in rooms, so as not to damage the foam in the ceilings.
Isolon was laid on top of the log on the floor and secured with a construction stapler, and on top - OSB sheets, which were laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. This is important, because when laying sheets joined at four corners, the floors begin to creak heavily.
Gradually, the inside of the house is transformed and takes on an attractive appearance. Here you can already get serious about the internal work on wall insulation.
The work for the construction season has been completed, I covered the window openings for the winter with OSB sheets and covered them with film, and mothballed the construction of the house until next spring.
So, I have completed the main work and my dream - to build a house out of wood with my own hands - is close to completion. IN winter period, if the weather permits, I will do the internal finishing works, and with the onset of spring, work will begin to boil with renewed vigor.
I hope I explained in detail and proved with the help of photos that you can build a frame house with your own hands!
Perhaps some of you, after reading my article, will be inspired to build one, and the photos given here will help him with this.
Thanks to numerous advantages, frame structures occupy a leading position among prefabricated buildings, which are used both for summer cottage purposes and for year-round use.
Not requiring a massive foundation, light, with high degree thermal protection of such structures is not inferior to brick structures.
Also, if you follow certain steps, you can always build a frame house yourself.
Construction instructions
To the most inexpensive price category and a technology-fast construction method include the construction of a frame-type house. That is why such buildings are in demand in all corners of the globe.
The phased construction of a frame-type house begins with foundation device and ends with finishing work, which several people can complete in a couple of months.
The construction process begins with the creation of design documentation, which reflects the plans for the future structure.
By adhering to the necessary regulations, you can implement engineering ideas yourself.
Photos of a frame house and design documentation were created by special design firms. The Internet offers a variety of videos about the construction of frame-type buildings with your own hands.
Site layout
When starting to build a structure, it is necessary to prepare the site. To ensure proper marking, the area is cleared of plants and debris. If there are uneven areas on the site, they must be eliminated and the hills removed to the required level.
Beginning construction works, carry out markings for the base of the house. In order to transfer information from design documentation to reality, using pegs, the dimensions of the future structure are determined.
Foundation and its laying
Step-by-step instructions for building a frame house include arrangement reliable foundation. The frame structure does not require laying a massive foundation; in this case, a column-type foundation is suitable.
When the foundation laying is completed, a roofing material laying is arranged. The strapping is made of timber, which is laid on the foundation base around the perimeter. The foundation is secured to the timber with bolts or studs.
Floor arrangement
Installation of the floor begins with fixing the joists directly to the framing bars. A board is also used for joists, but in this case, for rigidity, it is necessary to install several boards together, fastening them.
The frequency of placing logs depends on the dimensions of the insulation. To secure the lags, corners and nails are used.
Waterproofing is installed on top of the insulation, then the floor is covered with special slabs. You can also use plywood.
Wall arrangement
The installation of walls is carried out by assembling a frame structure, which is created from metal or natural solids. Mostly oak is used for the timber frame.
The frame is assembled in accordance with the construction diagram frame structure. Initially, the wall span is assembled on the floor surface, then in finished form The wall surface element is installed to the floor.
Note!
When calculating the dimensions of wall surfaces, it is worth taking into account the fact that each successive span has racks less than one thickness of the next span.
In order for the frame structure of the wall surface to have greater rigidity, jumpers are installed between the vertical type racks, the fastening of which is carried out in a checkerboard pattern.
The jumpers are attached to the directly mounted frame or at the stage when the structure is still placed on the floor surface. Doors and windows in wall frames are installed according to design documentation.
Roof arrangement
One of the most common types of roofing is the gable roof. The rafters are selected with a cross-section so that insulation can be installed between them. In the ridge, the rafters are combined using the half-paw method. Then the sheathing is installed.
Profiled sheets or metal tiles are suitable as roof coverings. This material easy to install, lightweight and relatively inexpensive. In addition, such a roof has a beautiful appearance.
Note!
After the building is insulated, finishing is carried out using plaster, siding, or lining. The most acceptable finishing option is vinyl siding, as it is easy to install and protects the wall surface from negative influences external environment.
Photo of a frame house with your own hands
Note!
