How to make a doorway in a brick wall. How to make a doorway: step-by-step guide Hole in a concrete partition

If you are building a house from scratch or want to remodel, you need to know how to make a doorway in accordance with all rules and standards. It should be taken into account that there are both general norms, as well as specific nuances in relation to individual materials.

Punching an opening in brick wall has a number of nuances

Doorway parameters and general requirements

Arranging openings in a building is one of the design stages. How correctly this work is done depends on whole line parameters. It is important to correctly calculate the position of doors and windows, strengthen the ceilings above them, and determine appearance and sizes. The area of light openings should be calculated separately. This includes not only doors, but also windows, since this concept refers to natural light from outside the building. In general, when performing calculations and installation, you should take as a basis the ratio between the area of light openings and the floor of the room in a proportion of 1:5.5 to 1:8.

The question that deserves special attention is how to make an opening for a new door in the wall of a house. In order to answer it, you also need to refer to the generally accepted standards GOST and SNiP. Today, despite the popularity of non-standard architectural and design solutions The basic parameters are still taken as a basis. Let's look at what you need to consider first:

Height. In ordinary apartments and houses, it is customary to cut openings for doors 2 meters high.
Width. Standard width designation door leaf is 70 and 80 cm. For living rooms It is customary to take just such doors, but for the bathroom and toilet you can reduce their width. Entrance doors can be 90 and 100 cm. It should be taken into account that additional centimeters must be left for installing the box.
Strengthening. Since a cutout in the wall leads to a partial loss of its strength in this area, it is necessary to compensate for this factor by redistributing the load exerted from above. To do this, install a jumper or install a socket. Next we will look in detail at how to do this work yourself.

Basic parameters of the doorway

If you have high ceilings in the house, and you want to create a grandiose entrance, you can deviate from the standards and install a larger structure, while coordinating these data with the overall design of the building.

Types of openings

Before cutting the opening, it is important to select optimal types designs. This point may not seem so significant, but in fact there can be many options. The following types of door openings can be distinguished:

Portal. This is a standard opening made in the form of a rectangle.
Under double doors . Extended version of the portal. In this case, the height may remain unchanged, but the width of the opening increases and averages 120-150 cm.
Arch. Basically this means a cutout with corners rounded at the top. Installing the door in the future is not at all necessary, since the curved shape creates difficulties in selecting the door, but at the same time it looks very impressive.
Complex designs. This non-standard solutions, which may differ unusual shape, ratio of elements, etc. Basically they are suitable for plasterboard partitions. But installation under an opening in a brick wall is best done according to the basic plan.

Types of doorways in the wall

When designing a building with your own hands, a prerequisite is to draw up a plan and mark all doorways on the drawings. In the diagram they look like an interrupted section of the wall with a line deviated to the side - this indicates the direction of plowing the canvas. This line in the drawings is connected to the wall line with an arc.

Technique used

In order to carry out high-quality work in construction, special equipment is used. The following tools are mainly used:

Hammer. The most common method due to its availability. Despite this, it has many disadvantages: uneven cutting, increased vibration load, dust, etc.
Drill. An alternative to a hammer drill. To drill holes yourself, you can use a core bit or a large-diameter drill. The drill is used to mark the contours of the future opening.
Bulgarian. Allows you to work also with concrete walls and wood. To cut an opening, you need to process the wall on both sides.
Chisel. This tool is mainly used for cleaning joints in brickwork.
Sledgehammer. The main tool for knocking out material along cut contours.
Diamond cutting This tool is a large model of an angle grinder. A diamond cutter allows you to cut a wall up to 40 cm thick on one side. Advanced models additionally use a construction vacuum cleaner and a container with water.

Necessary tools for punching a doorway

Brick wall

So, after checking the project on the drawings, you can get down to business directly. Since brick walls are one of the most common options for partitions in a house, you should consider the technology of creating an opening in them first.

The main feature of punching an opening in a brick wall is that the contours of the upper part must coincide with the joints in the masonry. It is not allowed to cut the brick lengthwise. After the work is completed, the jumper is installed. The same principle is observed when creating a doorway in a building made of foam blocks.

Let's consider the order of work. First, you need to check the position of the future opening on the plan with real conditions and adjust the general plan if necessary. For ease of work, boundaries are marked on the wall made of foam blocks. Since all the bricks are connected to each other, any incorrect force can lead to damage to the integrity of the entire masonry. That is why you first need to cut out the outlines of the structure.

Dust-free cutting of openings is carried out using special equipment with a diamond blade, equipped with a construction vacuum cleaner to collect dust. If you do not have a specialized tool at your disposal, you can use a grinder. After marking the contours further work made using a sledgehammer.

Very often, when doing work with your own hands, you may encounter the problem of load distribution. To minimize risks, you can first cut through only the upper part of the opening, perform strengthening work and then continue. Temporary side supports are also sometimes installed, especially when it comes to load-bearing walls made of foam blocks.

To properly distribute the load when punching an opening, jumpers are used

How to properly make a doorway in a brick or foam block wall with your own hands is now clear, but what to do when remodeling an apartment in a panel high-rise building?

Panel house

To make a safe opening in the wall panel house no need to look for joints, as in a structure made of foam blocks or bricks. There are much fewer restrictions on defining contours, but the load is greater. Therefore, it is recommended to begin the installation of any doorway with the installation of a metal lintel.

Let's look at how to make an opening in concrete wall with your own hands? The algorithm of work is the same: first, the designation is made, the contours are cut, and then the middle is taken out. If a wall made of foam blocks can be crushed with a sledgehammer, then panel house for reinforced concrete structures, you need to additionally cut it into squares.

The installation of the doorway parts itself is carried out according to a standard scheme and is common to all types of structures. The installation of the canvas is reflected in the drawings. An exception may be an opening in a log house. This type of structure inevitably shrinks over time, so it is important to pre-cut this area.

An opening in a panel house can be created in any convenient place without being tied to the joints

How to make a jumper

The issue of organizing a jumper should be considered separately. It is a horizontal crossbar that is installed at the top of the opening and takes on most of the load.

The following materials can be used for the jumper:

wooden beams;
reinforced concrete beams;
metal sleepers and profiles;
brick with reinforcement.

Types of lintels above the doorway according to the material of manufacture

To securely fix the elements, the jumper must be implanted into the wall approximately 20-30 cm on each side. Used for clutch cement mortar. After it hardens, you can continue punching and finishing the opening.

Regardless of whether you are going to punch a doorway in a brick wall or cut it in a wooden partition, it is important to observe basic requirements GOST If the load is distributed incorrectly, you increase the risk of the building collapsing in the future, especially when it comes to load-bearing elements.

Various materials can be used to make doorways, and the most popular material is plasterboard. The main advantages of drywall are low price, ease of installation, as well as ease of finishing. You can make such an opening alone, without the help of experienced builders. But how to properly make an opening from plasterboard? Does the frame need to be strengthened? What should you keep in mind when installing drywall? Below you will find the answers to these questions.

How to make an opening from plasterboard

For manufacturing, you need to install special vertical racks. After this, it is necessary to strengthen the door frame to increase the strength of the structure. Then you need to do the installation door frame. At the final stage, finishing should be done. Let's look at each stage of installing a plasterboard opening in more detail.

1. Frame formation

First, at the selected location, you need to install special racks that will limit the opening. You need to install the racks like this:

The racks must be level, and their position can be checked using a construction or laser level. Checking the location of the racks is very important - if the racks are crooked, then you will get a crooked, skewed door.

Vertical partitions must be attached above and below to the horizontal frame guides. To increase the strength of the structure, you can also attach partitions to the floor as well as to the ceiling.
Along the height of the doorway, the racks should be connected with a horizontal jumper. You can fasten the metal parts to each other using shortened metal screws.

2. Strengthening the frame

To make drywall more stable, it is necessary to strengthen the supporting structure:

To improve strength, ordinary wooden blocks.
The thickness of the bar should be 3-5 mm less than the thickness of the metal frame.
The length of the beam should be equal to the height of the racks.
The bars are mounted like this: a wooden block is inserted inside and secured with wood screws. The optimal thread pitch for reliable fixation is 1.5 - 2 centimeters.

The length of the screws should be several millimeters less than half the thickness of the beam.
If you are planning to install a massive heavy door made of wood, then you also need to reinforce the horizontal lintel at the top with wooden blocks.

3. Installation of the box

Let's find out what the installation of a door frame looks like:

Typically, a standard factory-made frame is used as a door frame, which is sold complete with the door.
If you did everything correctly, then there should be a gap between the box and the vertical posts, the size of which is 3-5 mm. This gap makes it much easier to install the box.
Installing a box usually looks like this - first you need to buy special anchors; then small holes are drilled in the vertical posts and in the box, the diameter of which should be equal to the thickness of the anchors; after that, countersunk screws are screwed into the anchors; the resulting gaps between should be filled polyurethane foam.

It should also be remembered that a large amount of foam can warp the door frame, which will lead to warping of the door itself. To prevent this from happening, after pouring the foam, you should install a couple of spacers in several places. When the foam hardens, remove the spacers and remove excess foam with a utility knife.
After this, it is necessary to install drywall. To do this, you need to carefully cut the drywall according to the dimensions of the structure, and then attach it to the frame using long screws or anchors.

4. Final work

Let's find out how to complete the final finishing:

Primer. A special primer coating is applied to the joint between the drywall and the protruding structure.
Removing defects. When the primer is completely dry, you need to seal the seams with sickle tape. It is also necessary to cover the places where the anchors are screwed in with putty and primer to hide the transition from the wall to the structure.
Leveling and final putty. Now you need to rub off the previously applied primer with sandpaper. Then you should apply another layer of putty over the entire area of the structure.
Mashing. Now you need to sand again so that the resulting structure is smooth.

Let's find out what experienced builders advise regarding the manufacture of plasterboard doors:

Many builders recommend doing this because metal transmits sound quite well. Can be used as an insulating material mineral wool, which suppresses sound vibrations well. Another good soundproofing material is polyurethane tape. Soundproofing material should be attached to the metal frame using special glue. It is recommended to install mineral wool or polyurethane tape around the entire perimeter to achieve complete soundproofing of the room.

From plasterboard you can make not only standard rectangular openings, but also arched openings, ellipsoidal, rounded, and so on. To do this, you need to give the materials the shape you need. installed according to the standard procedure, but the profiles are carefully bent, and the profile itself can be trimmed using metal scissors.
You will also need to bend the drywall - to do this, you first need to cut a rectangular sheet in the way you need; then you should go over it with a needle roller; Now you need to wet and attach the drywall to metal structure. Drywall should be wetted carefully - if there is too much water, the drywall will begin to crumble, which will make the resulting structure fragile and unstable.
Installation of a door into a plasterboard wall is carried out according to the standard scheme, but there are several important differences. Firstly, the insertion of bolts must be done carefully. Secondly, do not forget to strengthen the frame; if the door is too heavy, the metal frame will quickly deform, which can lead to the door being distorted and even to the collapse of the structure.

Before making a doorway, it is necessary to obtain legal approval for such work and obtain permission for it. This is especially true when breaking through the load-bearing walls of a house or apartment. After completing the relevant documents, you can get down to business.

The first thing you need to do right away is to completely empty the room of furniture and things, and close the doors of adjacent rooms or cover them with fabric or film. The work ahead will be dusty, and such preparation for it will not be superfluous.

When punching and installation is carried out interior partition or walls, the appearance of construction waste is inevitable. Therefore, to collect and remove it, you need to stock up on strong bags, which you can find at home or buy in a store.

If the renovation does not involve installing a new floor, it is worth covering it with boards, since the installation of an opening is always accompanied by the fall of knocked-out pieces of a concrete or brick wall, which can damage the coating.

Safe opening opening front door requires protection of the skin, eyes and respiratory organs from penetrating dust, which is raised into the air by plaster and wall fragments falling during dismantling. Therefore, such an activity as installing an opening requires the presence of special clothing, safety glasses, a respirator and gloves. In addition, before disassembling, you should make sure that there is or is not present in the interior wall. electrical cables and disable them if any are detected.

Making an opening in the wall

Installing the front door opening is not difficult, although this process is quite labor-intensive. In order for the new structure to support the considerable weight of the remainder of the wall above it, the doorway must be strengthened. It is performed using horizontal jumpers and racks, the material for which is steel profiles - 5x63mm angles or 10P(U)-14P(U) channels.

Cutting an opening

To cut openings in a concrete or brick wall, professionals usually use cutters equipped with diamond-tipped wheels, but for home use a fairly powerful hammer drill and an angle Sander. In addition, making an opening will require a sledgehammer, a drill, welding machine, studs M16 - M24 with nuts, a diamond wheel for an angle grinder and tools for marking.

Before making an opening in a brick wall, it is necessary to mark its outline. Having chosen the desired size, you should drill through holes in the corners of the contour. They will serve as a guide when determining the perimeter of the entrance door opening on the other side interior wall. Holes can be made using a hammer drill equipped with a 12mm drill.

After defining and marking the contour above it top line it is necessary to knock out or cut a groove to lay a lintel made from a channel. Its length should exceed the width of the opening by 1 meter. The profile must fit tightly into the manufactured groove. Before installing the channel, you need to drill holes in it in increments of 300 mm, which are necessary for tightening fastening. Then the profile should be fixed in the groove with mortar, and the wall should be drilled through the channel holes. On its reverse side you need to cut a similar groove, insert a second channel into it and tighten both profiles with pins. After completing this work, you can cut the opening.

IN concrete structure It is more convenient to do this by dividing the contour area into squares in advance. Adhering to their boundaries, you can cut the concrete with a grinder or knock it out with a hammer drill. Some pieces of concrete wall will be easy to remove, while others will require cutting off the reinforcement. It is easier to cut an opening in a brick wall due to the lower strength and greater flexibility of cutting this material.

When the manufacture of the entrance door opening is completed, it is necessary to perform additional reinforcement of the opening. The channels must be connected by welding using a metal strip installed between them or plates connecting the channels every 20 cm. Both sides of the opening must be reinforced with corners, which must be welded into the upper lintel of the opening. In addition, the corners should be tied in pairs with metal plates and tightened using pins along pre-made holes. To strengthen the opening of the load-bearing wall, it is necessary to install a lower lintel and weld it to the racks.

Finishing the opening

After the installation is completed, the entrance opening under the door must be “ennobled”. Plaster is used to finish openings, decorative rock, plastic, drywall and wood.

For example, decorative plaster is durable and environmentally friendly. On the slopes of the opening, plaster fills all the voids and further strengthens it. When working with this material, you need to make sure that the design of the interior entrance door opening is reliable, and then begin preparing the solution. Decorative plaster applied using special templates made from quality materials. If the installation of the opening does not include doors, then its corners are additionally reinforced with special profiles, which should be located on all sides of the entrance. The remaining cavities are filled with plaster, and its excess is removed. After the solution has dried, the door opening can be painted with acrylic enamel.

Drywall sheets are often used to line deep openings. The advantage of this finishing option is the ability to give the structure any desired shape. When designing an opening, the necessary elements are cut out of the sheets in accordance with its dimensions. The surface of the slopes is treated with cement mortar or gypsum mixture until smooth and even. Then the elements cut from gypsum plasterboard can be attached to profiles pre-installed in the opening or simply glued to the surface. Decorative plaster is often used for the external coating of such cladding.

The doorway is often subject to some kind of mechanical stress. Therefore, cement screed is the most reliable type of coating door slopes. Unlike other types of cladding, which, if damaged, require replacement of their elements, cement coating is easy to repair and restore to its original form.

Depending on the style of the interior, doorways can also be decorated with arches, stained glass windows, columns, or simply beautiful curtains.

The doorway in the plasterboard partition, for the subsequent installation of an interior door, is made according to existing standards at the stage of installing the partition. The doorway must be made in such a way that installation of the door is simple and reliable, and closing the door does not violate the structure of the partition.

From the author

IN this type Partitions can be inserted into any interior doors: drawer doors, wooden doors, PVC doors, covered with veneer, film, enamel, enameled paint. For civil partitions there are no requirements for the type of door and method of installation. In the reinforced opening of the first year, you can install an interior door using polyurethane foam or self-tapping screws. There are restrictions on the weight of interior doors. It should not be heavier than 25 kg. With this weight, you can purchase interior doors of the following designs:

Tsar doors, weight 10-12 kg;
Doors combination MDF + wood, weight 15-20 kg;
Doors with honeycomb filling up to 10 kg;
Doors made of solid pine, weight 20-25 kg.
Heavier doors require special reinforcement of the plasterboard partition.

About the frame and door

As you know, frames for plasterboard partitions are usually made from metal profiles called rack-mounted (PS) or wooden beam. If installing a door into a plasterboard frame made of timber does not raise problematic issues, then firmly securing the door frame to a thin metal profile is simply not possible if you do not make preliminary preparations and arrange it correctly doorway.

Working conditions

The task of the work described is to make and prepare a doorway in a plasterboard partition for the subsequent installation of the door. From professional construction practice, it is worth remembering that the frame and installation of doors are done by different teams of workers, often spaced out over time of work. In such a situation, it is important for partition installers to properly prepare the doorway so as not to put the carpenters in an awkward position.

Tools

To carry out work in your home and with your own hands, you will need standard electric and manual tools for working with drywall, which must be supplemented with: A wood saw.

Work stages include

I believe that work on drywall can be divided into two technological approaches.

The first approach is professional. It complies with all technological maps developed by drywall manufacturers. The most famous technological sheets of the Knauf company.
The second approach is amateur. It is possible due to the versatility of plasterboard profiles.

For example, a proper plasterboard box should be made from PS rack profiles. In an amateur approach to installation, the rack profile can be replaced with any other PN or PP profile, the main thing is that the structure is durable.

Professional doorway in a plasterboard partition on a frame made of metal and wood according to the Knauf technological map;
Doorway in a partition made of HA in apartments, private houses, small spaces.

Stages of work execution

We will divide the work into the following stages:

Marking the opening;
Installation of a frame with an opening;
Strengthening the opening;
Covering the frame with HA sheets.
Peculiarities painting works in the opening with the door.

Carrying out work in stages

Marking the doorway

Marking the opening is done when marking the partition by marking the width of the opening on the floor of the room. The width of the opening for an interior door should be the sum of the width of the assembled door frame and two 10 mm gaps that should be left between the frame and the frame. The height of the opening is calculated in the same way.

Installation of a frame with an opening Knauf technology

The partition frame is mounted from rack (PS) and guide (PN) profiles. PN profiles are mounted horizontally; PS profiles are mounted vertically.
When installing the guide profiles of the partition frame along the floor, they are interrupted at the border of the opening.
Along the border of the opening, two vertical rack profiles (PS) are installed. Their must be secured with additional steel corners from the floor and ceiling to strengthen the structure in this particular place.
Particular attention is paid to the vertical threshold doorway. It is made from a guide profile (PN), having previously bent its edges, as shown in the figure. You can bend the edges of the profile not up, but down.

Strengthening the opening

I want to note. What in technological maps Knauf, no additional strengthening of the opening is provided, except for installing the corners at the top and bottom on the vertical guides of the opening.

Let me explain what's going on. By Knauf technologies the door is placed not on the metal frame of the partition, but on a beam (board), which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws or anchor bolts, and the door is fixed to this wooden lining of the opening. That is why the size of the opening for such technology should be increased by the width of the timber for the box.

In everyday construction practice, the frame of a doorway is reinforced with timber, but the timber is not placed outside the frame, but is inserted inside the profiles of the opening. That is, a frame is made with an opening the width and height of the door frame plus 20 mm gaps. And into the vertical posts of the opening, wooden blocks are inserted inside, which are secured to the posts with self-tapping screws.

Note. If you don't have steel corners to reinforce vertical racks openings to the floor and ceiling, they are made from two PS racks, connecting them like a box (put one inside the other).

Covering the frame with HA sheets

Covering the frame with sheets in the area of the doorway has several features.

First, the seam between the sheets of civil code must not be allowed to touch the border of the doorway. This will lead to cracks in the future.
Second, there is no need to join the sheets horizontally at the height of the doorway. Sheathing should be done in a single sheet.

Features of painting work in an opening with a door

The door constantly opens and closes, putting a shock load on the partition and frame. No matter how you strengthen it, the HA partition will still fluctuate, and the HA sheets will shift, forming cracks. To strengthen the painting layer of the partition, you need not only to glue the seams with paper masking tape, but also to glue the surface of the partition 1-1.5 meters from the border of the door with a painting mesh.

Opening in a wooden frame

IN wooden frame under drywall, the doorway is made in the same way: vertical bars are reinforced with corners to the floor and ceiling. The box is mounted on a wooden beam.

Over time, many of us come to the decision to change the existing layout of our home, so quite often the question arises of how to break through a door in the wall, make an arch or opening, combining two rooms into one. Carrying out the necessary repair work is relatively easy if you have construction skills. However, it is necessary to take into account not only design features buildings, but also some legal aspects. Before carrying out redevelopment, it is mandatory to approve the future redevelopment project, as well as obtain permission from the Housing Inspectorate of the city or district. First stage includes preliminary preparatory work, acquisition of equipment and building materials necessary for work.

Preparatory stage

If there is a need to make an opening in brick, stone, or concrete walls, you will need a hammer drill with various attachments, an angle grinder, a saw with diamond blades, a sledgehammer, a jackhammer, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, and a construction vacuum cleaner. All work must be carried out with extreme caution, adhering to strict sequence and safety precautions, since redevelopment is a rather labor-intensive, complex and responsible process. Before the beginning repair work it is necessary to check whether there is any wiring in the wall where the opening is punched, engineering communications or chimney pipe, minimum distance which must be at least 300 m away. If necessary, the wiring can be moved. You also need to take into account in which brick wall (load-bearing, non-load-bearing, rigidity) the door or arched opening will be punched, so as not to deform and weaken the entire supporting structure buildings. If an opening for a door is made in non-load-bearing walls, in order to reduce the risk of collapse and prevent deformation, markings are made, and the dismantling of bricks begins from the top rows (from top to bottom), pointing the chisel perpendicular to the surface. In addition, you must first draw up a design for the doorway.

Old coverings, wallpaper and a layer of plaster are removed from the surface of brick walls. The plaster layer is removed until the brick appears. Then, using a tape measure, mark the markings of the future opening with a pencil or chalk. To prevent the wall from sagging and collapsing, you need to know how to strengthen the doorway correctly. First of all, you need to make a reinforcing jumper from a corner measuring at least 35 mm. To do this, cut off two corners, which should be 35-40 cm longer than the opening. The reinforcing jumper provides protective function, taking part of the load from the wall above the future opening, from the supporting floors, as well as from the walls upper floors, roofing structure. The safety of the entire wall and building structure completely depends on the quality of the mounted lintel. It is preferable to use for making jumpers durable steel. When designing a lintel, you need to take into account the following aspects: the size (length and width) of the doorway in relation to the total area of the walls; distance from opening to adjacent walls; distance from the upper border of the opening to the ceilings; thickness, general state and the building material from which the wall is built, its quality, specifications; number of floors above the doorway; location of floor slabs.

Sequence of work

After completing the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the main work, namely dismantling the brick wall and punching an opening for installing the door. To do this, it is preferable to use a sledgehammer with a chisel, a saw with a diamond blade, or a jackhammer. Using a grinder with diamond wheels and a hammer drill, you need to drill the top of the opening on both sides of the wall, which should be 17-22 cm larger than the width of the doorway itself. The depth and width of the holes should be equal to the size and width of the corner. At the next stage, you need to insert pre-prepared steel corners into the holes made and secure them with anchor pins. The cracks are filled with cement-concrete mixture. When using a diamond wheel, work is carried out in protective glasses. Along the pre-marked lines of the doorway, using a grinder, the wall is cut to such a depth as the diameter of the diamond wheel allows, after which they begin to gradually remove the bricks using a sledgehammer (perforator). It is worth noting that you need to disassemble the brick from both sides of the wall, while it is permissible to disassemble only one layer at a time brickwork. After dismantling the bricks on the sides, it will be quite easy to cut a hole further. At the next stage, the jumper is completed. To do this, two corners are welded together at the bottom or fastened together with metal plates or metal screws. At the final stage, the necessary Finishing work and install a new door.

Punching an opening in concrete walls

Since concrete walls are mainly load-bearing, if there is no experience in carrying out such construction work, it is still better to entrust the punching of the opening to professional craftsmen who will be able to accurately carry out all the necessary calculations, taking into account design features strapping and reinforcing frame. Punching an opening in load-bearing wall begins with markings made on both sides. In order to transfer the markings to another surface of the wall, use a hammer drill and drills with a diameter of 10-12 mm, which make through cuts along the entire perimeter, retreating every three to four centimeters. Since concrete walls, unlike brick ones, have a greater density and thickness, all work is performed only with diamond discs.

After the opening for installing the door is made, a frame is made from steel corners, fixed to each other by welding, or channels of the required length are used. To install channels, niches are punched out on both sides of the wall using a jackhammer, or the work is done manually. Each recess for placing channels is well cleaned of brick residues and dust, after which a cement-concrete mixture is laid on the surface of the niches, moistened with water, and channels or corners are inserted into it. The resulting voids are covered with slabs cellular concrete, brick the right size. Screws are inserted into the holes made, washers are put on the ends and nuts are screwed on. After cement mixture When it dries completely and hardens, you can make an opening in the wall. A reinforcing metal mesh is mounted on the slopes and lintel and filled with a layer of concrete mortar on top. After plastering the surface, finishing work is carried out and the door is installed.

It is worth noting that if the opening for installing the door is punched into external wall, it is necessary to additionally consider insulation, which will prevent heat from penetrating into the room. For this purpose, special waterproofing building materials and insulation materials are used.

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Today, installing a door is not a very difficult task, since door manufacturers sell their products already complete with frame, hinges and handle, and often already painted or varnished. You can choose the right size interior doors for almost any opening. If the opening does not correspond to standard dimensions, then you will have to order the door according to custom size. When installing, not only the width and height of the opening are taken into account, but also its thickness.

Before starting installation, you need to moisten the opening in order to achieve good adhesion of the mounting foam to the opening cavity.

Then the package is inserted into the opening and aligned vertically and horizontally. You need to focus on the width of the gap between the box and the canvas. In theory, it should be the same at least on opposite sides of the door.

Having completed the leveling, it is necessary to fix the sides of the box with fasteners, and seal the cavities with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, you need to remove its excess and attach the trim.

Only after this can the canvas itself be put in place. And finally, the operation of the door itself and the door lock is checked.

Installation of an interior door. Interior door, perhaps, one of the most significant elements of a living space, not only in functional terms, but also as a design object.

Choosing and installing a door is a crucial step, since the beauty and comfort of the room largely depends on it.

Making an opening for a door in the wall

The door is installed after all repair work is completed, but it must be selected before the repair begins, so that later you do not have to expand or narrow the doorway.

The dealer network of stores where doors are sold is widely known and enjoys deserved popularity. standard sizes, designed for installation in standard doorways.

Before choosing a door, you need to measure the opening; if it is standard, then you can safely buy the sample you like; if not, then during repairs you will need to adjust the opening to the dimensions door block, while being sure to leave a small gap so that the box fits in easily.

An ideal opening is considered to be 80 mm larger in width and height than the door block, and its thickness is 75 mm.

A small gap around the perimeter of the box will be closed with platbands.

If the parameters of the doorway do not correspond to the standard ones, then it is better to make the door to order, then during installation you will not have to build up or saw the frame of the door block.

The work sequence is as follows:

1. Remove the base first

If there is a cement base, you can throw it in at the end with the last brick type. Cement plaster facing the edge of the door.

2. More bricks are cleared under the new lintel

at a level of 2.1-2.15 m, and the old cement mortar falls out of the brick in a molded niche.

The width of the embossed rope should be 100-300 mm greater than the width of the door frame being installed. When setting a door leaf of 60 cm, you need to confirm 4 bricks (in the image of a brick with a contour door that are cleaned, they are indicated in white) for doors from a leaf of 70, 80 and 90 cm - 5 bricks (the fifth brick is shown in purple in the picture) 6 need to burn rarely bricks, but sometimes it is necessary:

Picture 1.

Barrier markings under the neck.

For acid spray bricks, at least the first, accompanied by minimal loss of barrier rigidity around the brick mortar, preferably before perforating for drilling, or at least perforating the mortar around the brick. If the section is set for a long time, a high-quality and long-term solution, if it hits the bricks stupidly, will come out of the load effect, it will first need to be redistributed to the adjacent bricks, and therefore the physical force to knock the bricks down must consume much more.

And secondly, due to the redistribution of stress, the solution is completely destroyed in the place where the blows are performed. Perforation reduces the mortar surface and increases the likelihood that the brick will drop. This recommendation also applies to cases where the masonry solution is too weak and simply destroyed, and especially for partitions in the Kipriha quarter.

For example, the tensile strength of M150 mortar solution can reach 2-2.5 kg/cm2 several years after splitting the septum.

At the same time, the area of the destroyed mortar is about 700-800 cm2 around the brick on the floor of the brick wall. Accordingly, this solution can withstand a static load of up to 1.4-2 tons. Of course, during the operation, the multi-calc hammer produces a brick load, and the solution will be shock rather than static, but all are equal to pure bricks in such solutions for one blow of hammer hammers, the speed of the sled at the moment of contact with the brick permutation must be large enough, and the partition is deformed quite small.

And besides, if the barrier is high enough, as close as possible to the bricks in the middle of the height, the likelihood of the entire partition falling apart is higher.

When perforating, the surface of the mortar around the brick is reduced, in addition, the residual strength of the mortar is reduced, and the redistribution of load is significantly reduced.

However, they do not work well, but when the bricks under the bridge break, the bricks may also fall.

It's okay, you can wear them on a jumper.

3. A standard concrete or metal bridge is formed in the molded hole of the roller profiles

The jumper must be on the solution.

If there are no concrete overhangs or metal corners, you can use wood on site or place several reinforcement bars with a diameter of 12-20 mm.

fourth
Closed cement slot

the rest after laying the lintel (especially the seam between the lintel and the old brick line). In Figure 2, the new solution is dark gray. Small cracks can be blasted with precast foam, but not just by stitching between the new lintel and the old brick line.

fifths
After installing the jumper you need a technological break of 5-14 days

it is necessary for the new decision to be valid. After this, rows of bricks, of which the width of the new opening is 5-15 cm wider than the frame of the new doors.

How to make a door: punch a hole in a brick wall with your own hands

Since the septum was stored in a suit, it must be carefully done so as not to compromise the integrity of the indestructible part of the septum. This can be done in several ways:

6a. Remove the bricks first

which completely prevent new door. Half brick 1m above the ground, preventing new doors from appearing (in the image marked in red), smooth, in the scattered hammer part, blow or hammer and chisel.

The direction of the impact should not be perpendicular to the plane of the partition, so as not to destroy the partition; impacts should be applied from above or below. You can also completely mud these bricks and then install cast gaps with half a brick before installing the door. If in next order enough space to start percussion instrument, the remaining halves of the stop are selected or trimmed in Bulgarian (they are marked in blue in the figure):

Figure 2.

Marking bricks under the neck.

6b. Cut hard faced bricks

Half a brick at a height of about 1 m from the floor, reaching the new door, cuts a Bulgarian cutting circle around the stone on both sides, and then digs it out.

The remaining distracting halves were demolished, as in the previous case.

6s. Immediately cut the Bulgarian bricks on both sides of the partition on the outline of the new door with the corresponding edge to install the door, and then remove the bricks.

The dustiest path. However, every job involves Bulgarian dust.

7. If the bottom line is a brick to be removed in cement screed, then it must be pierced in parts. Use bulgark when unfavorable conditions and there will be more dust than usual.

After removing this line, the floor surface is leveled with a cement screed.

This is all and everything remains doors.

Making a door frame

There are two options for installing doors, depending on the requirements of your site.

If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is “tied” to it and adjusted so that the seams are not placed on the drywall pillars of the door (Fig. 1a).

If the position of the aperture is allowed to change, it can be “fixed” in plan, that is, where there are no joints (Fig.

1, b). It is better to arrange the opening so that there are two structural posts on both sides of the door molding. We can connect them to the door, which further strengthens the neck.

Attach door frames to the vertical part of the wall of the partition frame without installing additional reinforcements if the following conditions are met: the height of the barrier does not exceed 2600 mm; door leaf width - no more than 900 mm; The weight of the door leaf does not exceed 25 kg.

The thickness of the partition with the door in this case will be equipped with a reliable mounting cabinet and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be fixed with covering inserts in an area no more than 100 mm from the opening.

Above the door, a gear profile secures the rod, which increases the rigidity of the entire door frame structure. 1-2 intermediate points should be installed between the crossbar and the upper conductor.

There are three ways to cross the door.

Method 1. In the PN profile section, which is equal to the length of the door width plus 60 mm, the scissors make cuts 30 mm deep.

Then the profile is bent at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, a).

How to make a door in a wall

The training part is fixed with a self-tapping screw on the PS door profile profiles (Fig. 2, b). The sides of the tape are fastened on the shelves and in the folded backrest.

Method 2.

On the shelves, make the scissors at a 45° angle and bend your back. In fig. 2, c shows a pillar on a door with a roof, the shelves are cut at 45° and bent back at an angle of 90°. The rod is attached to the stand at four points - two on the curved part and two on the bridge itself. This means only eight jumpers per jumper.

Method 3. The bridge over the door frame is made from the length of the PN profile guide along the length of the door width plus about 200 mm.

Taking into account the width of the hole on the profile, scissors cut the flanges on the back and bend the end at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2d). Secure the prepared jumper with bolts through the curved rear part (Fig. 2, d). For improvement, insert Mo-cross-section into the corners of the wooden rods and fix them on both sides with screws instead of the wrinkle profile (Fig. 3a).

This will ensure the reliability of the model. Inserting rods into corners is the knowledge of Russian craftsmen; such information is not available in technical instructions drywall manufacturers.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, the frame frame that forms the hole should be strengthened. Rigips company and German company Knauf (from the point of view of the main company in Germany) recommend the use of reinforced UA profiles with a thickness of 2 mm.

Their width corresponds to standard CW / UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling using connecting corners.

2. Manufacturing and fastening of cross wires on the door:

a — production of the transverse side (the back plate is cut and bent at an angle of 90 °); b - rods with side walls (the backs are cut and bent at an angle of 90 °) inside the partition; V - opening of an entrance door with an angled corner and a door with a side wall (flange cut at an angle of 45 °, backrest bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - SS profile, 2 - PN profile 3 - crossbar 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - insertion angle for the lower door frame, 6 - corner corner for the upper door frame; g - cross section with side wall (rotation angle 90°, curved back at 90°): 1 - front, 2 - door, 3 - screw LN9; d - Door frame door with angled corners and sides (post at 90°, back bent at 90°): 1 - bottom rail 2 - top rail 3 - front door frame, 4 — insert for the door, lower edge, 5 — corner of the insert for the upper part of the door, b — rods.

The corners are attached to the floor and ceiling using dowels and connected to the reinforced profile using an M8 pin with washer and nut.

In practice, this multiplication is carried out either by pressing on the post of the wooden beam, followed by the mounting screws (see Fig. 3a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3c).

The maximum weight of the door leaf depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards, in the CW50 profile you can adjust the weight of the door leaf to 30 kg, within the CW75 profile it weighs 40 kg, and the CW100 frame profile weighs 49 kg.

When using reinforced profile UA (thickness 2 mm), the weight of the door leaf for wall mounting increases to profile UA50 - 50 kg, for profile UA75 - 75 kg, for profile UA100 - 100 kg.

Window openings and niches on partitions are reinforced with gaskets in accordance with the same principle as the door.

Making a door in the frame area near the wall on which the barrier is different is no different from above. Mark floor-to-ceiling tracks on the track that will be attached to the base wall. Then add the length of the shorter part of the baffle on each side and cover the excess with sharp scissors.

At the floor and ceiling lines, the profile slats are cut into the back, and the corner corners are lightly cut in these places so that they do not interfere with bending. The ends of the profile are made in accordance with the markings at an angle of 90 °. Align the leading profile with nails with the guide and the level of the structure (Fig. 4).