How to make an electrician in an apartment yourself. How to replace electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands

An apartment in which renovation begins is like a blank canvas, like a ticket to a new life. I hope you have patience, endurance, money and a vision of how you will truly create “your” home. And you will have to start creating from the base - electrical wiring.

I recommend that you pay extreme attention to this stage of repair. Don’t just invite an electrician (at best, on the recommendations of friends) and leave it to him, but delve into the issue personally, and more deeply. After reading this material, you will be convinced that at the initial stage you will have to bother a little more in order to ultimately get a truly modern, comfortable “fortress house”. In which life will be comfortable and rational.

The catch is that the concept of correctness in this matter is extremely vague. From standards generally accepted since Soviet times to progressive and, in fact, appropriate in the 21st century. I will try to tell you about the second option. And show its capabilities and advantages. Of course, it is impossible to embrace the immensity and present in detail all the subtleties of apartment electrical wiring within the framework of one material. But, I hope, I managed to reveal the main idea - about why we should move away from the usual techniques.

So, your main task is to achieve a convenient and correct electrical circuit. In simple terms: so that sockets and switches are in convenient places (but not an eyesore), so that they are confidently enough, so that the equipment works without failures, and it is absolutely safe to use electricity in the apartment. This can be achieved by following a simple algorithm. And a good start is half the battle here. Where to start? From the mind - from planning and drafting technical diagram. For this you will have to go through 3 main stages:

1. mark the location of the shield,
2. draw up a diagram of the location of sockets and switches,
3. draw routes and calculate the required amount of cable.

For clarity, here and there I will illustrate the material with data from the website of the large electrical and lighting store “AxiomPlus”. There is always up-to-date technical and pricing information.

Where to install the shield?

In 99% of cases they are placed in the hallway, which is not without logic. By placing the box in the area of ​​the front door at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor, you:

1. reduce the length of the power cable to a minimum,
2. at the exit from the apartment you can, if necessary, disconnect unnecessary lines,
3. Prevent small children from accessing the content.

Having determined a suitable place, put marks on the wall so as not to lose it. And we move on.

Please note: it is too early to buy the shield itself at this stage! You do not yet know which modular devices and in what quantities will be located in it, therefore you do not have data for choosing the size and capacity of the box. All this will become known later. In addition, below I will talk about the capabilities of a new type of electrical panels. I promise they will be a godsend for many.

Next according to the plan is the marking of socket groups and switches.

You can easily handle this yourself, because who knows better than you where you will place the furniture, appliances and lamps? Focus on convenience. Walk around the apartment, determine where you will need basic and additional lighting. Discuss with other family members how and where it is convenient for them to use technology.

Then, on paper (or on a copy of the apartment plan), in a mobile application, on a computer (whichever is more convenient), sketch out a diagram of the layout of large furniture (sofas, tables, beds, cabinets, TV and audio equipment, kitchen furniture). And after that - the location of sockets and switches. Why after? So that in fact it doesn’t turn out that a third of the connection points are hidden behind bulky interior items and become inaccessible for use, and there is nowhere to turn on some of the equipment.

Tip: don’t skimp on the number of outlets. In this matter, it is better to over than under. As practice shows, at least 50 pieces are needed for a standard two-room apartment. Group them 2-3-4, it's convenient. And in the future, when several connection points are united by one decorative frame, it will be aesthetically pleasing. If you “save” at this stage, you will receive less in everyday comfort. And over time, “decorate” the apartment with garlands of wires from extension cords and tees.

Did you come up with it? Have you planned it? Pick up a pencil with a strong lead (there are also special construction ones) and... feel like Michelangelo.

The next task is painting on the walls and ceiling.

Draw a path from each planned outlet and switch to the panel. That is, from the point on the walls where they will be located in the near future. Route the main cable routes either along the floor or ceiling. How to choose? If you plan to have a heated floor, then ceiling cable routing is actually the only possible option and, in practice, the one most often used.

For the sake of fairness, I will make a remark. Theoretically, a “warm floor” does not interfere with the laying of cable routes in the floor. Here the question depends on the thickness of the screed: for example, you can safely pour anything into a 10-centimeter layer of screed. But in apartments they usually try not to “eat” so much. We’ll talk about the “warm field” (and how, in fact, to “eat” less height) below in more detail.

When drawing, make sure that the lines go from above to the sockets (each 0.3 m from the floor) and switches (0.9-1 m from the floor) strictly vertically, and all turns are only at right angles.

As a result of the art, you will get a lot of drawn lines converging at one point - at the place where the apartment electrical panel is installed. Why do this? For preliminary calculation of the required cable footage.

Tip: Mark each pencil line, clearly indicating where the cable will be routed from. This will greatly facilitate and speed up installation in the future.

Why are there so many lines?

It is important to understand: a progressive approach to organizing electrical wiring assumes that each socket or switch is connected by wire to the panel directly, without junction boxes and without connections. This the most reliable and high-quality thing you can do with home electrical wiring. Frankly, the main cause of fires due to faulty electrical wiring is precisely where the wires connect. This is the most problematic place. Accordingly, if there are no connections, the risks are several times lower.

It's comfortable. Self-contained circuits are always more practical than all sockets powered by one cable. There was an accident in one, the entire line was turned off “until clarification” - and you sit without the ability to turn on electrical appliances anywhere. Plus it will often cost less. Well, at least not more expensive, I’ll cover the topic below.

What electricians still do, and why it's wrong.

I won’t speak for all specialists, but the fact remains a fact. It will be a long time since there will be no shortage of masters who think and act according to the standards of the last century. Not according to the needs of modern housing with its electrical filling. What does it mean? And the fact that the wiring project and cable calculations, and, accordingly, automation, is carried out with an eye on hopelessly outdated standards. Standards by which you overpay when receiving electrical wiring with minimal potential.

• 2 wiring circuits per room - for lighting and sockets;
• separate circuits directly to the panel for each powerful electrical appliance (such as an electric stove or oven);
• a separate circuit breaker in the panel to protect each line.

Regarding the choice of cable cross-section, the usual standards, tested for decades, are the following (you can check it yourself by googling or talking to a familiar electrician):

• 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines + 10A circuit breaker;
• 2.5 mm2 for socket lines + plus 16A circuit breaker;
• 4 mm2 for powerful consumers + plus a 20A circuit breaker.

Simple, clear, proven. But it's outdated. In no way am I saying that this cannot be done - it is certainly possible. The question is, why, if you can do it smartly, and not the old fashioned way? The next step is to figure out how to calculate the wires “in a new way.”

What is the best way to select and calculate a cable: cross-section, length, brand?

First, by engaging rational critical thinking. Mainly in order to analyze the real (and not theoretical, but in fact outdated) electricity consumption of modern household appliances and lamps.

As a prelude, I will name the main bonus: you will save on the purchase of cable.

At the very least, don’t overpay, and you’ll “eat” the fruits every day. Buy a kilometer of thin wire or half a kilometer of thick wire - that’s what it will do. Yes, there will be more automation in the dashboard, but this is not a significant increase in price. After all, this is not to install RCDs on all lines (I’ll talk about this in more detail below). Adding 10-15 low-denomination machines will not significantly affect the budget. Oh yes, and the box will need a little more room, which is also a small thing.

First, the most revealing point: let's talk about lighting.

We take it for granted that in most apartments and cottages it is already LED. With all the ensuing advantages, including super-economical consumption. And the above standardized cable cross-section indicators were developed for hopelessly outdated, but half a century ago, voracious LONs that did not have a single competitor. Isn’t it significant: instead of 60W for LON, it’s only 6-7W for LED!

So what's the point of stubbornly powering a light bulb with 10 times less consumption with the same 1.5 mm2? Ok, let’s not consider one light bulb, let’s take for clarity an expensive, rich chandelier with a total consumption of 50W. Even for it, the cross-section is not that “one and a half”, but 0.75 mm2 suggests a decent margin of safety.

The check here is simple: use the formula, proven over decades (this is what never becomes outdated) and generations of electricians:

I(A) = S(mm2) × 10

where I is the current strength, S is the required cable cross-section, 10 is simply 10. I’ll immediately add a note: practice has proven that this empirically derived formula differs from scientific calculations within a tiny statistical error and has an ironclad right to exist.

For our magnificent (and by LED standards, voracious) chandelier, the required cross-sectional area will be:

1. 50W / 230V = 0.22A,
2. 0.22A / 10 = 0.022mm2,
3. 0.75mm2 / 0.022 = 34 times.

How do you like it? Even such an unusually thin wire exceeds the actual requirement by 34 (!), and the usual 1.5 mm2 for lighting lines is simply blatantly off scale.

Let me note once again that these are approximate calculations, but they are not far from reality.

Why fight for a new approach and a thin wire? Not at all because of compactness as such, it’s still ditching. And for the sake of significant savings. Because for every meter of cable you will lose a significant amount. For a cable coil of 0.75 mm2 you will pay about 200 UAH. For “one and a half rubles” - 6-7 times more. Yes, you will have to buy up to several kilometers of thin cable and generously lay it out in bundles. It happens that 10 km of wires are wound in an apartment, but these are thin wires.

What cross section should be used for 220/230V sockets?

At a minimum, install a separate cable for each more or less powerful electrical appliance. Split system, washing machine, electric water heater... Let there be 20, 30 lines in total - this is not terrible, but even good (remember about twists and connections, or rather, that it is advisable to minimize them, and ideally avoid them). And for each electrical appliance, calculate the cross-section as close as possible. Moreover, standard sockets larger than 16 amperes will still not pass through.

I’ll say more and look ahead: not all standard sockets will carry even 16 amperes. Even (!) if it says on them that they can. Here the issue comes down to quality. In cheap Turkish or Chinese sockets you will rarely find actual copper or at least brass as part of the contact group, because in fact there is steel coated with paint with a hint of copper, and the possibilities are even smaller. And accordingly, it simply doesn’t make sense to run an expensive thick cable to such an outlet.

Often in practice there are situations when people are going to buy a good cable for their apartment (for example, from Odeskabel), but at the same time the sockets are from the frank economy segment - they say, they can save money on this. It might save you money, but the point of overpaying for cable is immediately lost.

Real examples: cables are purchased for 15 thousand UAH, and sockets are purchased for 1.5 thousand UAH. Chinese (despite the fact that German ones would cost 3,000 UAH). Would it makes more sense to do the opposite: lay a thinner cable and use German sockets. For the price it would have worked out that way, but the result would have been definitely cooler, more correct and more durable. It makes no sense to run a cable that can withstand 7 kW to an outlet that cannot withstand 3 kW. That is, this is money wasted on cable.

In addition, if there is a really powerful electrical appliance that requires the appropriate cable cross-section (like an electric stove, unless it was connected directly from the panel), then the socket for it will be a special one, a power one.

And the cable there really needs to be 4mm2. And in other cases, there is no point in chasing the cross-section. All the same, the socket as a weak link immediately limits the capabilities of the entire system.

By the way, we will definitely talk about the selection and installation of electrical accessories below; this is a really important issue. One of the fundamental ones. In the meantime, let's continue about cable selection.

In current realities, more electricity is actually consumed than 3-4 decades ago. But this happens mainly due to an increase in the amount of equipment in each individual household. At the same time, modern electrical appliances are no match for Soviet ones; they are no longer so gluttonous in themselves (look at the labeling of new washing machines and refrigerators - solid A+ and A++). Overall consumption becomes more economical and is smoothly distributed over time throughout the day, without sudden jumps. Not like decades ago, when the refrigerator turned on in your kitchen, and even the neighbors’ lights flickered. Those. total consumption has increased, but peak consumption has not. Due to the fact that consumption is low, there is no point in making large gaps.

What's in the numbers? Based on the lighting, you have decided - feel free to choose a cable with a cross-section of 0.75 mm2.

If you ask: why not 0.5mm2, since according to calculations this is enough? But because the difference in price for these sections is not significant. At the same time, we take into account that on long routes with too small a cross-section there can be significant losses. Plus 0.75mm2 is definitely enough for everything related to light, and with a decent margin for the future. Therefore, it is better to buy 0.75mm2, so as not to think and never remember.

Let's move on to the sockets.

Rating 10A or 16A - the value for which standard Schuko sockets are designed. A 3x2.5mm2 wire is what is prescribed to power them according to classic electrical installations. Let's check the relevance of these recommendations using the same scheme: 2.5mm2 × 10 = 25A - this is how much the wire can pass, but bad luck - the outlet itself is limited to 16 amperes. By the way, this is 3.6 kW (16A × 230V) of the power of the connected electrical appliance, let’s also look at this indicator: 25A × 230V = 5.75 kW - something too powerful to plug into a regular outlet, isn’t it? After all, in fact, the consumption of modern technology is quite modest. Take even the most powerful ones - a storage electric water heater, also known as a boiler, for 1.5 kW: 1500 W / 230 V = 6.5 A, 6.5 / 10 (the formula mentioned above) = 0.65 mm2.

As you can see, even quite powerful equipment with a significant reserve is powered by the same “one and a half”. The conclusion is similar to the point about lighting - wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 are an unreasonably expensive and unnecessary solution.

Life hack: plan several outlets that you will use only for charging mobile devices. Somewhere near the bedside table or in the hallway, whichever is more convenient for you. And feel free to power them with a wire with a cross-section of 1 mm2, because the consumption there will be absolutely negligible. For what? Additional savings in cable purchases: 4 times per meter. The same for low-power consumers such as musical equipment.

Is that “2.5mm2 for socket lines” really useful? To be honest, in reality it is only needed for direct connection of an oven or a powerful boiler (there are such things). Such devices do not have a plug; the cable goes directly inside from the panel and is connected to a special terminal. For an electric kettle or iron, it is enough to just buy a very high-quality 1.5mm2 cable, so that it certainly complies with GOST. But, of course, to calm your soul, you can lay 2.5mm2 on the circuits with sockets for connecting an iron, vacuum cleaner, electric kettle or heater. To be sure.

Regarding particularly powerful consumers the recommendations remain relevant: for an electric oven or electric stove, it is better to make separate circuits directly to the panel using a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 for a consumer with a power of up to 6-7 kW or 6 mm2 for 8-10 kW. Three-wire for single-phase network, five-wire for three-phase.

Here I will also make a footnote - even stoves and ovens are not always connected to 4mm2 or 6mm2, for some people even 2.5mm2 is enough, here you need to read the instructions for the specific model.

What about cable brands and quantities?

In general, most often in apartments they use PVA (it is flexible and easy to install) or VVG (cheaper, but tougher, and therefore more difficult to install). But as we follow our differentiation plan, keep in mind: On the lighting line, only PVA (or ShVVP) is suitable, because others are not thin enough. The same VVG has a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm2 (and, as you remember, we justified that there is no point in laying a wire thicker than 0.75 mm2 for LED lamps). The choice of sockets depends rather on the preferences of the electrician; here we will not be categorical.

This way you will determine which wires you need. And calculate the footage of each type using those pencil lines drawn earlier. They are marked with what is what, so you won’t get confused. Only for each circuit add another meter and a half for input and connection of automation. So determine the layout based on the total needs of cables of different sections.

Where can you buy a cable that is not truncated, according to GOST, and not a fake?

It’s clear that it’s not on the market - because. extremely high probability of getting caught in a fake. And buying directly from the factory is often completely impossible. Optimally from an official representative, preferably with a long presence on the market, because Unfortunately, there are still plenty of one-day online stores, although there are significantly fewer of them than 5 years ago. One of the official representatives, and in fact there are not many of them, today is a specialized store of electrical engineering and cable products - AxiomPlus - where you can choose a cable according to detailed characteristics, and compare the price of trusted suppliers (read: manufacturers) and buy a good cable quality without fear for its authenticity.

Calculate - counted, but how to lay it? And what else will be useful?

Most often they are laid on the ceiling or floor. But still, more often the first option, because cable heated floors are popular in apartments and houses. That is, the wires run along the ceiling, and then go down the walls to the locations of sockets and switches. In this case, the cable on the ceiling is then covered either with sheets of plasterboard or with suspended ceilings. Along the walls, the cable route lies inside the groove, hidden under a layer of plaster.

Is additional corrugation needed?

Surely your electrician will say that you need to add corrugation for laying to the estimate. And here I would stop and reflect. I’ll say right away that the question “corrugation and its role in electrical wiring” leads to a separate topic with emotional reasoning. An ambiguous question, which is better to be solved based on the following considerations:

1. standards and regulations,
2. expediency.

In fact, the “Wiring Rules” do not mention corrugation itself. It regulates how cables should be laid in different situations and conditions, at what distance the cable should be from the combustible surface, where and how it should be located. It is not written that it should be specifically corrugated.

That is, in some cases, simply by the fact of its presence, it allows you to lay the cable in accordance with the requirements of the regulations. For example, the cable should be laid at a distance of 2 cm from the surface. It is certainly possible to achieve this with the help of corrugation - so that it hangs at a given distance, plus does not bend or break. But by itself it does not protect it from anything except a number of mechanical damages.

Perhaps, the main reason to lay the cable in a corrugated: If the pipes are hermetically sealed, then oxygen does not get inside. As a result, even if something happens to the cable inside, a spark appears and a fire occurs, the oxygen inside will instantly run out and self-extinguishing will occur. Sounds good, right? But keep in mind that the effect occurs only when the pipes are hermetically sealed. But in practice, more often than not, “if only it was”, they threw it, and everything looks more solid, the client is satisfied. And ask, what are they for? — 95% of electricians will find it difficult to give a substantive answer. You will hear versions like: “well, it should be in the pipe”, “that’s how everyone does it”, “it’s so beautiful”. So, if you are going to lay it in pipes, then it is logical to seal the ends. At the same time, be sure to ensure that the pipe is of good quality and without damage.

So, home wiring is safe even without the use of PVC corrugation when using a flame-retardant cable (like VVG) and hidden wiring (in grooves under a layer of plaster).

This is more of a visual solution and light additional mechanical protection (for example, a drywall worker will accidentally hit it with a knife and damage the insulation). And also easy to replace the wire if necessary.

Life hack: if considered in the context of mechanical protection, consider the option of cable channels. Purely for reasons of practicality. At least they are square; they are much easier to plaster in the walls than round corrugation. They come with consumables such as corners, turns, tees, which facilitate installation. And for safety purposes, this is the same (although, in truth, the cable channel is in fact more rigid and will protect against mechanical damage better than a corrugated pipe). In terms of money, with a cable channel it’s barely more expensive.

Think about impulse switches.

Especially for large rooms, rooms with complex configurations, long corridors. If the apartment is one-room, small, then there is no special meaning, but “the master is the master.” It happens that they do it in one-room apartments.

Why yes? This is a triple saving: on cables, on switches, on installation. It’s also reliable and repairable—if it fails, you can replace it in five minutes with a screwdriver. Not like for a crossover switch, where the repair floor needs to be redone in order to replace it.

Impulse switches are no longer uncommon. The idea naturally becomes popular, and demand, accordingly, gives rise to supply. You will find them in the catalogs of European manufacturers of electrical accessories, and a pulse switch costs exactly the same as a regular one. To go with it you need to buy a pulse relay, which is placed in the switchboard; its price is quite affordable, about 200-300 UAH.

And, of course, there is a huge amount made in China, but here you have to be more careful so as not to run into outright trash. That is, the price is already equal to the walk-through ones, but installation is easier and faster. As well as repair or replacement as necessary. Moreover, you can install them without restrictions on quantity - wherever it is convenient to use. Pulse relays and buttons allow you to create absolutely any combination of lighting system control. At least one zone from five-ten-fifteen places, at least five-ten-fifteen zones from one place. And you don't need to run around the apartment. For example, when leaving the house, by pressing one button near the front door, turn off the lights in all rooms.

But this is still a desirable, not a mandatory element. Let's now return to the really important object located near the front door - the distribution panel. His time has come.

How to choose and install an electrical panel.

You probably already realized that the resulting shield will be much larger than the 10-module boxes that are becoming a thing of the past. It is convenient to choose step by step according to the parameters.

Size— based on the total number of modules of all devices placed in the panel (read more below).

Life hack: be sure to provide some extra space on the DIN rail. This will be very helpful if in the future you have to install one or two more machines (for example, on a new split system) or an additional RCD in the children's room. In general, in principle, the more spacious the box inside, the more convenient the installation.

Material- plastic (generally more aesthetically pleasing and more convenient for an apartment) and metal.

Installation method- built into the wall or mounted. It is better to build it into an apartment, this is maximum compactness.

Life hack: if you are installing it in drywall, immediately buy special fastening tabs for mounting in hollow walls, so as not to have to worry about installation and not have to re-order.

Design- Do you want one with a transparent door or a solid one? Rely on your own understanding of convenience and aesthetics.

Some people want to take a look at the voltage relay installed on the DIN rail (I’ll definitely tell you about it) with an indication on the display and understand that everything is normal. For others, a white opaque door seems like a nicer option. By the way, about white. Not white, actually, alone.

If you want something more interesting, you are welcome - to the catalogs of European manufacturers. They make shields so cute that they can be considered as a highlight of the interior. For example, in the Volta series from Hager there are designs in blue, metallic, anthracite, even with mirror frames, to match the poster. Or models whose doors can be easily covered with plaster or wallpaper to completely blend into the wall.

Life hack: If there are small, curious children in the apartment (and are they not curious in principle?), a model of a shield with a lock will be very useful. Unlike a standard latch, it will reliably block access to the contents.

Whatever box you ultimately choose, be sure to mark each modular device in the panel - using a diagram (some box models have a clip on the door for storing it) or by marking it with special stickers.

For lovers of versatility, design and compact solutions.

She promised to tell me about an interesting solution. Appeared on the market hybrid shields from “classic” European brands (Hager, Schneider Electric). What is their valuable feature: in addition to the DIN rail, they have a mounting board for multimedia equipment. Imagine: you simply hide the router inside the built-in box, and do not “decorate” with it a wall or a cabinet in the corridor. Such shields are well ventilated due to their thoughtful design. Using the example of the Hager series of the popular Volta:

1. the classic built-in box VU36UA for 36 modules will cost almost a thousand hryvnia,
2. hybrid VU36NWB with the same capacity, but also with perforated mounting panels - one and a half thousand “with kopecks” *.

* prices for electrical panels were also taken from the AxiomPlus website (by the way, the official partner of the Hager company) and are indicated at the time of publication of this material (September 2019).

That is, in the second case, you will pay 1.5 times more, but will immediately receive a place in the main distribution panel adapted for the installation of computer network equipment (elements of the Smart Home system, alarm system). And the maximum possible civilized appearance of the hallway.

What is mandatory and what is advisable to put in the electrical panel.

Required elements for home electrical panel: circuit breakers(for short circuit protection) and RCD(from leakage currents). Select machines according to the calculated rated current value for each line. Or exactly the same load as expected on the circuit, or the rating next in the line in the direction of increase.

For example, let's take the water heater we reviewed. The line for connecting it at 6.5A (we calculated above) will require protection by a 10A automatic machine: 6A is already not enough, and the next one in the “ten” gradation (“eight” is a very rare denomination and is produced in industrial series). See the entire range of possible denominations in the online catalog (it’s convenient to choose there too).

Advice: you cannot take the machine’s nominal value “for growth”. In this case, the reserve is not only unnecessary, but harmful. The protection should work, turning off the emergency line BEFORE the cable starts to heat up.

For protection against leakage currents, set the RCD to at least the introductory(for the entire apartment) with a sensitivity to leakage current of 100 mA. It works as a fire protection (paired with a common input circuit breaker). For a small apartment, it is permissible to put 30mA at the input; it will work against both fire and electric shock.

Another one for the bathroom - preferably with sensitivity to leakage currents of 10 mA (plus the same for the children's room, if there is one or planned). 30mA is also allowed in the bathroom. If your budget is freer, then use an even more reliable option: for each room there is a separate 30mA RCD (except for the bathroom and children’s room, we do not change the indicators here), and then you will do without the introductory one.

Advice: follow the organization of the automation markings in the dashboard that are simple and clear at first glance. This will help you instantly navigate the “stuffing”.

A healthy solution is to install a voltage relay to protect equipment.

But only with occasional dips and surges in voltage in the sockets (if the problems are constant, then the relay will work non-stop). The relay will promptly de-energize the line in case of emergency voltage values ​​(i.e., beyond the safe limits for household appliances specified in the instructions). And will resume feeding after the situation stabilizes.

This opportunity is especially valuable for compressor equipment (refrigerators, air conditioners). Structurally, choose for the entire apartment (for installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail) or for one electrical appliance - most often they choose a socket version for a refrigerator.

You need to select a relay according to its nominal value: according to the sum of the powers of the connected electrical appliances. For example, equipment (potentially switched on at a time) consumes a total of 11 kW; determine the nominal value using the formula from a school physics course:

I = U/R = 13000W/230V = 47.8A

then select the relay in the panel to the nearest value of 50A. It’s better to look at the models offered for sale with your own eyes to understand the dimensions. So, relays for 50A suitable for our example occupy 3 modules in width. This is important to know so as not to miss the capacity of the distribution panel.

Important: for one phase - one relay, for three phases - three single-phase relays.

To prevent natural force majeure, install a surge arrester.

I advise you to install surge protection (in other words, lightning protection) in the shield. The value of this device is that it minimizes the risks of lightning overvoltage (which, by the way, no circuit breaker can handle). This is especially important for residents of private houses, but even in an apartment it is better to be on the safe side and install a surge arrester of the most budget category D (price tag around $10) in your panel. After all, the lightning protection system from builders often does not stand up to criticism.

Important: set to zero and phase. For a single-phase network, a two-pole arrester is needed, for a three-phase network, a 4-pole one is needed.

At the same time, work on electrical fittings.

When you know how many sockets and switches there will be in the apartment, as well as their location, feel free to start looking for them. As for installation, you need to start by preparing the holes for installing socket boxes (standard depth 45 mm or “XXL” - 60 mm if it is supposed to contain a wire assembly).

To install several mechanisms in a row, choose ready-made socket boxes for 2-4 places or modular ones that are easily connected to each other - consult your specialist.

You probably already know, but let me remind you. Modern electrical accessories are structurally produced in two versions: assembled (economy segment) and disassembled (the vast majority of European series). The dismountable kit is a mechanism with a metal frame, attached to a wall socket, and a separate decorative frame attached to it.

So, start “beautifying” and installing decorative frames only after finishing the finishing work - on finished walls with wallpaper or painting.

For families with children, I strongly advise you to choose sockets with protection - with curtains (the holes are closed by default, and open only when both are pressed at the same time. Moreover, the pressure is equal to the same force as when turning on the pins of a plug. There are also options with covers.

In addition to the standard ones, consider the location of special multimedia and USB sockets, as well as for the thermostat.

What to consider in advance if you are planning a heated floor.

Water heated floors are prohibited in apartment buildings. But with electric, choose from three options:

1. heating cable - completely embedded in a cement screed (minus - it will eat up the height of at least 2-4 cm);
2. heating mats - will cost a little more than cable and mesh, but are easier to install and more compact in height;
3. heating film is the thinnest solution (from 0.4 mm) and the only one possible if raising the floor level is not possible.

In terms of power, the guideline is simple. For additional heating to increase comfort, 100-120 W/m2 is sufficient. Connect complete with temperature sensor and thermostat. Make the connection directly from the panel to a separate machine, no surprises here. Place the socket block on this system, and place the thermostat in it under the frame.

Is it possible to provide backup power in the apartment?

Yes, and this is done using an uninterruptible power supply. Let's talk about how to choose, connect, what to power, how long the resource will last. The beauty of a UPS is that, thanks to the built-in batteries, it will continue to operate the equipment connected to it for a certain time. Which one depends on the power of the UPS itself and how much you “hung” on it.

Typically, backup power is provided centrally at the level of an apartment building - new high-rise buildings are connected and put into operation with backup power. But don’t be confused: backup power is not autonomous. Those. They are powered from the neighboring area so that people do not have to sit in the dark for a long time.

But the issue of backup power in a single apartment is quite difficult. Let me clarify - difficulties arise when we are talking about autonomous power supply for the entire apartment. At a minimum, because the UPS for an apartment is quite large.

Thus, a LogicPower LPY B PSW 7000VA UPS with 5 kW output power and dimensions of 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.5 m weighs 31 kg, and models with a power of about 10 kW are completely long - up to 0.7 (or more) meters in one of the sizes. You understand, this is a large, weighty, and also noisy device. More suitable for a private home, where it is convenient to place it somewhere in the utility room. And in an apartment such a colossus will clearly become a foreign object. Plus it’s also expensive: the same 5000 W option will cost from 20 thousand UAH. and higher.

Why not a generator? You can read the subtleties and nuances in the article. But let's face it: the likelihood of vibration and noise disturbing both you and your neighbors is too high. And the neighbors can be nervous and may contact the law enforcement agencies. I’ll say right away that the idea is good in theory, but in practice it is small and difficult to implement.

But it is still possible to make a backup power supply at the initial stage of repair. Just approach the issue from the point of view of maximum rationality. What is missing most when the power goes out? Isn't it true, lighting in the dark? So let's power it up. Then, in the event of an accident, there will always be light in your apartment, without flashlights or candles, and this is already a plus of one hundred hundred points for the comfort of life.

How to choose an uninterruptible power supply “for the light”, I’ll show you with an example. Let's say we are talking about a two-room apartment with a total power consumption for lighting of 80 W (we take it for granted that LED lamps are installed everywhere). We take into account that, in principle, all the light bulbs never light up at the same time, and we take into account that a third to half of the power will be used, i.e. maximum 30-40W (and only if used on a grand scale). For such a situation, an inexpensive 500-750W UPS is sufficient. Let's see what he is actually capable of.

For example, a LogicPower LP 850VA UPS with 510 W output power and a battery life at full load of 10-15 minutes is enough for: 510 W / 40 W = 12.75. This is 12.75 × 10 minutes = 127.5 minutes. A full 2 ​​hours of autonomous lighting! And this is with a completely free mode of use. If you squeeze down to a couple of light bulbs, then half a day will be enough.

Life hack: no matter how tempting it may be to connect a refrigerator to the UPS, there is no point in it. Even with a bonus 20-30 minutes, you will not radically solve the situation with saving borscht and sausage. We can only hope for a prompt solution to the problem on the part of utility services.

Another task for which a UPS is indispensable is saving the computer and data on it in the event of a line failure. It is very advisable to provide a reserve of autonomous power supply if you often work using a PC (or carry out other operations such as storming enemy positions with tanks). Moreover, it will turn out quite inexpensively: if install only on a computer; in most cases, a UPS with a power of up to 300-500W is sufficient. But in terms of capacity, look at your needs - you will have time to complete the job correctly in 3-4 minutes, and to calmly complete the work task at hand, choose 30-40 minutes (look at the “autonomy at full load” indicator).

At the finish line - a new level of comfort and safety.

Now you will at least be able to speak the same language with the electrician, compare his recommendations and estimates with your own calculations and with a high probability you will make the wiring in the apartment really “for you.” As a maximum, by abandoning outdated methods of calculation and installation and installing electrical wiring in the apartment according to the proposed algorithm, you will receive decent bonuses:

• reliability and durability of the home power supply system,
• convenience of daily life as a result of detailed differentiation of lines - you can turn off any socket or lamp individually, otherwise without losing comfort,
• saving money, effort and time (mutually complementary parameters, right?),
• invulnerability of equipment to incoming lightning,
• Autonomous power supply for lighting and PC.

Do not forget that you cannot skimp on the quantity and quality of sockets, otherwise they will reduce the potential of the entire system. But now you know how to safely save on cables by rationally calculating its cross-section. Another important point: do not give in to the impulse to save money on purchasing elements of your wiring by purchasing it at the market or in dubious shops. The risk of running into a fake is too high, and the consequences of automatic devices or RCDs that do not operate on time are very dire. Take the trouble to find officials; you can’t skimp on safe electricity.

Of course, you don’t have to bother and do everything standard, the old fashioned way. But you will overpay for the absolutely unnecessary (read: useless) thickness of copper in cables for lighting and sockets. Plus you will get a “short” shield for 5-6 machines, which is inconvenient.

Unfortunately, so far the percentage of projects with progressive electrical wiring is more than modest. Neither homeowners nor, most sadly, electricians have “matured.” And one of the biggest difficulties today is to find a master who not only acts according to an ingrained pattern (albeit with all responsibility and with his hands in the right place), but has his finger on the pulse of electrical and lighting technologies. But there are no hopeless situations, and when repairs are needed, there are at least two ways out:

1. hire a real professional “for all the money in the world” and set a clear task for him, so that it is with the latest technology;
2. understand the subtleties and nuances on your own (a start has already been made, since you have finished reading this article). To explain to the electrician what you want, on your fingers. And then carefully monitor each stage of the implementation of your dream project. In other words, stand above your soul and control every day what is done and how.

I hope that after reading, you have become interested in trying to implement a project using the new capabilities and potential of modern lighting and electrical engineering. Wishing you easy and quick repairs and a comfortable life!

In the practical work of any home craftsman, questions periodically arise related to the modification of the electrical circuit, when it is necessary to install an additional outlet, hang a new lamp, or completely refurbish a room.

The question immediately arises: how is the electrical wiring diagram made, and where should it be connected?

The situation is aggravated when the building is old, the apartment has had several owners, each of whom carried out renovations according to his own taste. As a result, all electrical wiring connection points are hidden inside the decorative coatings, and the routes for laying its cables and wires are unknown.

Principles of constructing an electrical circuit in an apartment

Any wiring is created using general methods and is somehow different from all other wiring schemes.

Required elements of the scheme

The basis for creating electrical wiring is the one to which electricity is supplied from the supplying organization. It can be installed at the entrance to a private house, on the staircase entrance of a multi-storey building - multi-storey or directly inside the apartment.

Electricity in the apartment panel from the input immediately goes to the electric meter - a device that takes into account its consumption. After it, it is distributed along the supply lines to consumers by cables and wires.

To protect circuits, automatic devices are used, embedded in the circuit inside the apartment panel in front of the cable going to the consumer.

Distinctive features

Each specific wiring diagram necessarily differs from similar designs due to the use of numerous designs of various models of electrical devices, wires and cables with their installation according to standard or individual projects using different methods.

Methods for supplying voltage to consumers in an apartment

The electric current from each operating household appliance is summed up in the apartment panel and taken into account by the meter through which the total load passes. Therefore, the current-carrying lines of the apartment panel are made of a thick section, which eliminates thermal overload of the wiring and aging of the insulation.

Wires from the apartment panel are laid with a smaller cross-section to consumers: the load through them is lower. But the material and cross-section of the core are selected according to reference books, taking into account the operating conditions of the wires and the power transmitted through them.

In this case, there are three possible ways to implement the scheme:

a loop (buses), when a common wiring line is created through distribution boxes, and from them there are branches to electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps);

radial method, which consists in supplying voltage to each socket with a separate cable, running directly without breaks or connections from the protection of the apartment panel;

in a combined way, combining elements of the first two principles.

Voltage supply via cable

All ends of electrical wires and cables are connected inside junction boxes. To connect them, a connection map is created.

An example is an electrical wiring diagram used in multi-story residential buildings built forty years ago. As an example, consider the structure of the old wiring of a one-room apartment.

An electric meter and two circuit breakers were installed inside the access switchboard. One was used for the socket group, and the second worked for lighting. From them, cables or, more often, wires - “aluminum noodles” went in a train to three (sometimes four) junction boxes:

1. rooms;

3. Sanitary unit and bathroom.

Both loops were laid in parallel lines to each box and switched in it. Since previously the loads on electrical wiring were small, separation by wire thickness was not used. The entire circuit was fully mounted with a cross-section of aluminum conductors of 2.5 mm2.

The distribution box for the toilet and bathroom was installed in the corridor and connected by wires to control the lighting of both rooms.

The diagram shows an option for protecting consumers connected separately to sockets and lighting devices. The principle of controlling consumers based on their location in the rooms was also often used. For example, AB No. 1 protects the kitchen and bathroom equipment, and No. 2 protects the corridor and room.

Inside one room, several sockets were often connected with a cable, and lighting was done with a three-arm chandelier controlled by a two-key switch.

The supply of voltage to consumers can be carried out according to other principles, when part of the load is connected through the third backup circuit breaker of the apartment panel. To determine how to connect sockets and switches, proceed as follows:

turn on all the lamps and plug in working electrical appliances, for example, a table lamp or a razor;

turn off any circuit breaker in the panel and monitor consumers that have stopped working;

make a note for memory;

turn off the next machine and record the changes;

analyze information.

Radial voltage supply

The apartment panel distributes electricity to circuit breakers, as in the previous case. In this situation, they are more carefully selected according to technical characteristics for each consumer based on individual load current.

The cable connects sockets, switches and lamps directly to circuit breakers without using any additional connections.

With this principle, the electrical wiring ensures increased operational reliability by disconnecting from the protection only the consumer where the malfunction occurred. However, in this case you need:

increased number of circuit breakers;

large dimensions of the apartment panel for their placement;

long cable lines.

Due to this, the material costs of creating the circuit and its cost increase.

Combined voltage supply

The method combines two developments: a loop and a radial connection, taking into account their application to local conditions. Due to the correct selection of loads, reasonable cost savings are created.

Principles of laying cable lines

Whatever electrical connection scheme is chosen, to implement it it is necessary to connect the apartment switchboard circuit breakers with wires to consumers.

There are the following methods of cabling on building structures:

along the ceiling;

on the walls;

under the floor;

mixed method.

Laying cables on the ceiling

The traditional old scheme, which is often resorted to now.

Cables from sockets, switches and panels rise along vertical lines to the ceiling and enter the ceiling below it. When it becomes necessary to turn and connect wires to the junction box, for example, to connect a switch, then create only a right angle no lower than 15 cm from the top.

This method allows you to avoid accidental damage to hidden wiring in the future when drilling into walls to attach shelves, pictures and other elements.

Laying cables along the wall

The method is similar to the previous one, but the cable lines are directed only along the walls.

There may be obstacles on the way of the electrical main: water supply, sewerage, heating pipelines, gas pipelines. They must be bypassed, creating an air gap as an insulating, separating area of ​​at least 3 cm.

Laying cables on the floor

This method began to be used relatively recently in the construction of new buildings. The cables from the apartment panel are lowered down, laid under the floor covering, protected from mechanical stress. They are routed to the sockets vertically.

When connecting sockets with a cable, jumpers are laid along the floor in pipes or tapped into walls.

Junction boxes are installed to connect lamps and switches.

Features of electrical wiring in panel houses

With the in-line factory method of manufacturing multi-story buildings, uniform templates for wall and ceiling panels are created. Empty channels for laying wires are immediately made inside them.

For technological reasons, their direction may differ from strict vertical and horizontal orientation.

The first panel buildings, called Khrushchev buildings, have specific electrical wiring laid under the wooden floor of the apartment. It rises vertically to the sockets in the wall cavities, and is supplied to the lamps and switches through a hole in the concrete floor slab of the neighbor above.

In this way, they previously tried to save material costs on wiring, but they neglected safety elements.

How to make a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands

Electrical equipment requires compliance with strict operating rules. Incorrect connection to the voltage network creates an increased risk of injury at home. For this reason, all electrical work is carried out by trained specialists who have undergone training and passed exams.

Connecting electrical appliances on your own is usually not very difficult and ends well even if you make a few minor mistakes. However, when engaging in such activities, it is necessary to first study the safety rules and current regulations.

Electrical wiring diagrams are carried out by design organizations that have received state permission for this type of activity. It is quite acceptable to try to make a project with your own hands and get advice on it from a specialist.

To do this you will need:

create a room plan to scale or use the developer’s technical drawings;

mark all furniture and large items on it in compliance with proportions;

determine the installation locations of electrical consumers, assess their load;

plan the placement of electrical points: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes;

mark electrical wiring routes along the walls, ceiling or floor;

make a sketch for each room.

Room plan

Such a drawing should be kept in the housing and communal services documentation. If you don’t have access to it, you can use a tape measure and draw a simple sketch yourself on paper.

Furniture arrangement

Stationary placement of large items in the room should not clutter sockets and lamps. Access to switches must be made free and their use convenient.

Therefore, all electrical points are placed taking into account the free area of ​​building structures. This gets rid of .

Assessment of power consumption of electrical appliances

Analysis of the created loads allows you to:

group consumers;

select protection and switching devices for them;

choose the design of cables and wires.

Selection and calculation of electrical wiring is carried out according to the applied load for open and closed modes of operation using electrical reference books.

Determining the installation locations of electrical points

Planning the location of switches, sockets and lamps is carried out taking into account the solutions to the issues discussed above.

The coordinates of each electrical point are indicated on the sketch. They are used to mark building structures. It will allow you to design the direction and calculate the length of wires and cables for their purchase.

Such a plan is drawn up for each room. It will become the basis for creating a wiring diagram for the electrical wiring in the apartment, will help to purchase the necessary materials, and perform optimal installation work.

By saving it in home technical documentation, you can always recall the features of the electrical circuit in memory for its modifications and modernization.

All apartment buildings already have electrical wiring installed throughout the apartment. During repairs or when remodeling a room, it becomes necessary to re-lay all the wires and connect all the devices. In addition, old wiring is not designed for a large number of powerful consumers in a modern home and becomes brittle and brittle over time, so it must be replaced for safety reasons. We offer step-by-step instructions on how to replace the wiring yourself.

Drawing up a plan diagram

Any work on electrical wiring begins with studying the old connection diagram and the features of introducing power wires into the apartment.

To do this, it is convenient to use a copy of the apartment plan, on which you can mark the installation locations of sockets, switches, and lamps. The starting point is a distribution panel with a meter near the entrance to the apartment. At this stage, knowledge from a school physics course is quite enough. In the future, the diagram will help to correctly calculate the amount of wire and fittings and will help with repairs and maintenance.

Rules for drawing up a plan:

• The electrical wiring route must run strictly vertically and horizontally, and all turns must be made at right angles. This is necessary for safety and with this arrangement it is more difficult to damage the line.
• It would be optimal to lay it in the upper part of the wall at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling or along the floor inside a special electrical baseboard.
• Switches are located at the entrance to the room from the door handle. Their height from the floor is not regulated, but in most cases it is more convenient to place them no higher than 80 cm.
• According to the European standard, sockets are located at a height of 30 cm, but in different rooms they can be located at the required height. For example, put them higher in the children's room, place them near the table in the kitchen, etc.
• The optimal number of sockets is 1 piece per 6 sq.m. For a kitchen or bathroom, the number of sockets should correspond to the number of working electrical appliances. The distance from the door or window opening is at least 10 cm.
• Each room must have at least one distribution box. An exception is the installation of wiring without distribution boxes, when installation and wiring is carried out in socket boxes.
• It is advisable to include a 30 mA RCD in the diagram at the entrance to the apartment and 10 mA in the bathroom to protect against electric shock.

Also in the diagram you need to take into account the layout of the apartment and possible options for arranging furniture so that you do not have to use extension cords or redo sockets. When you have figured out how to do the electrical wiring, you need to calculate the length of the wires, the number of sockets and switches, and additional accessories. Now with this estimate you can go to the store.

Selection of components

Let's start with choosing a cable. You can find cables with aluminum and copper filling. The former are cheaper, but conduct electricity less well with an equal cross-section, are not elastic enough, and are prone to overheating. Therefore, copper wires are considered the best for residential wiring, as they can easily withstand heavy loads, are durable and do not oxidize. The sheath must be made of PVC or any other non-flammable material.

We calculate the cable cross-section according to the diagram and take into account the maximum power of all electrical appliances for each branch. For sockets, the wire cross-section is at least 2.5 mm2, and the power circuit breaker is designed for a current of 20 A. For lighting, 1.5 mm2 and a circuit breaker of 16 A are sufficient, and powerful electrical appliances must be powered through wires with a cross-section of 4 mm2 and protected by a 25-amp automatically.

All cables must be laid inside corrugated tubes separately from each other to avoid overheating and fire.

The selection of sockets, switches, cable ducts, junction boxes and other small fittings should be carried out according to the same principle.

For high-quality and durable repairs, choose only products from trusted brands that comply with GOST and SNiP and have the Rostest badge.

Sockets can be with or without grounding. The presence of a grounding contact is mandatory for connecting electrical appliances in the kitchen and bathroom. A protective cover or curtain on the socket will be useful in a child's room. There are also exotic options with a shutdown timer or a plug ejection button.

Switches can be single-key or with several keys, for controlling several lamps in walk-through areas. Illuminated switches and built-in light level controls are convenient.

All electrical devices have contacts for connecting wires. They come in two types: screw and quick-clamping. Screw ones are simpler and cheaper, but require regular tightening of the terminals so that contact with the wire does not deteriorate. Contacts with spring-pressed terminals do not have this drawback; the force is always constant and the human factor is completely eliminated (there are poorly pressed wires in the connectors).

RCD - residual current device is increasingly found in apartment wiring diagrams. The benefits of it are obvious: the device monitors current leakage in the network and, if the threshold value is exceeded, de-energizes the entire network completely. So, if the wire insulation is damaged or the connected device overheats, a leakage current occurs, which is detected by the device. The use of an RCD completely protects against electric shock if you carelessly touch a bare wire.

RCD connection

Wall preparation and marking

There are two types of electrical wiring installation in an apartment - closed and open. In an open way, the wires are laid in cable channels or attached directly to the walls. All sockets and switches are also mounted without recessing. This method does not require labor-intensive operations and is relatively simple, but less aesthetically pleasing. This type of wiring can be used in the garden, garage, and storage room.

For closed placement of wires, we will need to make recesses and slits in the wall along the entire line; we can use technological holes in the walls and ceiling. But after sealing the cables, you get a smooth surface, ready for finishing. For apartments, only this option is used. It is possible to place the main cable lines on the ceiling, followed by installation of a suspended or suspended ceiling.

Preparation of the walls begins with cleaning them of old wallpaper and plaster, dismantling the old wiring, after which markings are applied according to the plan. At this stage, it is convenient to mark the cable locations using a laser level or a long cord.

According to the markings, recesses are made using a grinder and a chisel or a special wall chaser, and recesses are made for distribution boxes and sockets with switches. To do this, you will need a hammer drill with special drill bits for concrete. This is the most time-consuming part of the repair, so if you doubt your abilities or do not have the necessary tools, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

To work with wires, it is worth purchasing special wire cutters that quickly and accurately cut wires and remove insulation from them. With their help, bare contacts can be sleeved with copper tubes.

Installation of hidden wiring

Now you can proceed directly to laying the line. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. We turn off the switch in the panel at the entrance to the apartment. Armed with a multimeter or an indicator screwdriver, we check the presence of voltage in the network and only then get to work.
2. After the meter, we install a distribution box with a strip for circuit breakers, from which each cable line will be routed. An RCD is installed in front of the distribution box, in which the input wire should always be routed from above, and the exit to the apartment from below. There can be one RCD per apartment or several for different groups of electrical appliances.
3. At the output there may be a common junction box, from which the wires will already go to their rooms. Instead of one such box, individual ones can be installed in the premises.
4. We must place the wires in corrugated tubes made of non-flammable material. This will simplify repairs in the future, and the wires will not overheat.
5. We tack the wires to the wall using special fasteners (clamps) or spread alabaster at regular intervals.
6. We leave an extra 15-20 cm of wire at sockets and switches for connection and repair. In places where pendant lamps are planned, you need to leave up to 1 meter of cable, depending on the design of the chandelier. It is better to cut off excess wire than to screw in missing pieces.
7. We attach socket boxes and switches to alabaster. It quickly and reliably sticks to the wall, so you need to cook it in small quantities.
8. We connect all sockets, lamps and switches to the machines and apply voltage. Then we check the functionality of electrical appliances. If the tests are successful, you can seal the cable channels and begin final finishing.

Sometimes experts suggest installing wiring under the floor. This method has several advantages: saving on wires, ease of maintenance, if the floor is wooden, there is no need to trench the walls.

Laying open wiring

This quick way to replace or re-wire electrical wiring has become popular thanks to cable channels of various sizes. There are wall-mounted and floor-mounted “plinth” types. The quantity is calculated according to our scheme, leaving 5-10% of the length for allowance and trimming. For fastening you will need self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

1. At the marked places we cut off the cable channels with a construction knife or a hacksaw.
2. We attach the lower part of the channel to the wall using screws, dowels, nails - it all depends on the material of the walls.
3. We install distribution boxes in the same way, without embedding them into the walls. In this case, the cable channels must be closely connected to the box of switches and sockets.
4. We put the wires in them and close the lid. The line is ready.
5. We clean the contacts and connect all the fittings. Now you can perform a trial run and check the functionality of individual nodes.

There is another way of wiring - the so-called retro style. Most often it was found in village houses and buildings built in the 20-30s of the last century. It consists of fastening the wires on ceramic insulators. For it we need a soft-braided copper wire and small roller insulators that are attached to the wall at regular intervals.

Replacing the electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands is not particularly difficult and can easily be done by a person without special knowledge and skills, the main thing is to follow safety precautions.

Electricity is an integral energy resource of modern construction projects, intended, in particular, for housing. It's hard to imagine a modern home without electrics.

Traditionally, a home network is installed by default by electrical specialists during the construction process. However, in some situations you have to deal with electrification yourself. Is it possible to carry out the work without relevant experience?

We will tell you how to do the wiring in an apartment with your own hands from the panel, what schemes and arrangement options are best to follow, and outline the rules and requirements for electrical installation. In addition, we will describe the stages of the work - starting from selecting and pulling the wire, and ending with the installation of sockets, switches and a meter.

Suppose there is a private house built or a new apartment with a rough finish that requires engineering equipment - electrical wiring and all the included paraphernalia.

Of course, it is advisable to entrust the installation of the electrical network inside a private house (apartment) to professional performers.

However, professional service comes with inevitable serious costs. In addition, there are regions where professional electricians are in real short supply.

Installing an electrical network for residential use with the help of professional electricians is not cheap. However, this approach eliminates a lot of electrical installation problems.

There is a clear way out of this situation - independent electrification of your own apartment/house. But how to install electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands without any experience?

Perhaps, only with the help of the necessary information - understandable, corresponding to current norms and rules.

Review of diagrams and installation options

Serious construction always begins with a plan. Electrification of your own apartment (house) also initially involves the creation of a circuit solution.

Urban apartments are usually built in a standard manner. That is, in fact, a standard power supply diagram should already be attached to a standard project.

How to stretch a wire in a channel?

Each section of the channel for electrical wiring by default contains a traction thread - a metal wire with a diameter of 0.5-1 mm. The ends of this thread are brought out through the inlet and outlet holes of the channel.

It is enough to tie the electrical wiring to the traction thread at the input and then carefully pull the conductors along the channel using a pull-up from the opposite end of the channel.

If there is no traction thread in the channel, in fact, it is not difficult to pass it through yourself, given the small diameter and sufficient elasticity of the steel wire.

An example of securing a cable with a metal string for subsequent pulling inside the cable channel. This is a common method for installing apartment electrical wiring - pulling inside cable channels

In this way, electrical wiring is “loaded” onto each individual section of the apartment circuit, including supply channels to traditional electrical points:

• electricity consumption meter;
• electrical outlets;
• light switches;
• residential calls, etc.

It should be noted that current regulations require that the ground bus cable be wired together with the terminal wires. It is recommended to connect terminals in a certain order.

The procedure for performing work with electrical wiring

It is recommended to start work on installing electrical installation products and connecting terminal units from the point furthest from the central distribution box.

Typically, this point is the electrical outlet(s) in the furthest room.

Work on connecting apartment electrical points traditionally starts from the sockets of the most remote room. Modern installation requirements for such electrical installation products require a three-wire configuration

Stage #1 - connecting apartment sockets

The socket terminals are connected to the conductors of the electrical line (phase - zero), plus, according to the rules, each of the sockets is required to be connected to the grounding terminal to the grounding conductor.

Conductors - phase, neutral, grounding, as a rule, differ in color:

• phase- brown;
• zero- blue;
• Earth– yellow-green.

In addition, the grounding conductor, again according to the rules, always has an increased diameter in relation to the other two conductors.

Having completed the installation and connection, you should check the integrity of the lines of the current section of the apartment wiring using an electrician's tester.

Testing of connected terminal points using a tester. The check is simple - through the function of measuring resistance for a “short circuit” of the circuit

To run the test:

1. At the other end of the channel in the junction box, connect the phase and neutral wires together.
2. Plug in the probes of the measuring device that is turned on to measure resistance.
3. Make sure the tester indicates "short circuit".

A similar check is also performed for the grounding line, connecting it to any of the linear wires. One of the probes of the device is moved to the ground bus.

Thus, moving closer to the main input point, all socket terminals included in the apartment circuit are sequentially switched off.

In this case, after testing each of the two sections, wire connections are made inside the junction boxes. Having completed work with sockets, they move on to switches - communication devices.

Stage #2 – installation of apartment lighting switches

This type of installation in general is not much different from work with apartment sockets. However, there are technical issues with .

So, if the sockets provide direct parallel connection to the circuit, the switch circuit creates an open circuit through one wire (phase) - that is, connection in series.

An example of a switching unit design consisting of two switches of the same type (single) design. Typically, this arrangement of appliances is typical for an apartment bathroom.

Switches are also mounted in niches of wall panels, but it is taken into account that each communication device works with a specific lighting device. From here you can choose the design of the switch - single key, two keys.

It is also recommended to test the operation of residential electrical wiring switches. This is done simply. The conductors intended for the lighting device are connected to the tester in resistance measurement mode, after which the key is manipulated.

In the closed state, the tester will show a “short circuit”; in the open state, no contact.

The part of the circuit with switches and lamps also assumes the presence of distribution boxes, where, after testing individual sections, connections are made to the rest of the electrical wiring.

Stage #3 – work at the meter installation site

Most installation options involve installing an electricity meter inside the apartment. Typically, this control device is mounted in close proximity to the point of entry of conductors emanating from the panel.

This requires the installation of not only the meter itself, but also those calculated according to the load - theoretically, switching each functional section of the apartment electrical wiring, as in the example below:

This scheme ensures reliable functioning of the electrical wiring in the apartment and allows you to eliminate possible faults without removing the voltage on the entire home network.

In addition, it becomes convenient to test apartment electrical wiring the first time it is turned on, sequentially turning on each individual segment.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

For more complete information regarding the installation of electrical wiring in the apartment area, it is recommended to watch a video describing the processes.

Familiarization with the video will enrich your existing experience, which will only have a positive impact on the quality of work.

Electrical wiring done by hand in a city apartment is a completely acceptable option. However, there are some “buts” in solving the issue in this way.

Firstly, you should not take on this matter if you do not have the slightest experience in electrical installation. Secondly, when planning to carry out work independently, you first need to think about your own safety and only secondarily about your own benefit.

Share with readers your experience of independently installing wiring in your apartment, connecting sockets and switches. Please leave comments, ask questions about the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.

Having the skills of an electrician is valuable in the conditions of modern life, when negotiated prices are fundamental and can, in the event of an unforeseen accident in the apartment, significantly weaken the wallet due to their fairly high level.

Most people are known to limit their electrical knowledge to the simplest process of replacing a light bulb in a lamp. And only a meticulous few who strive to learn as much valuable information as possible master the theory and practice of electrical installation work.

In the future, when the question of how to install new wiring in an apartment becomes relevant, they do not need to decide whether to invite craftsmen or save money using their own skills.

The main risks if you want to carry out electrical work

There is an expression “to rent out an apartment turnkey”. The main essence of this concept is based on the complete implementation of all work, including electrical work, which is represented by typical wiring diagrams in an apartment.

And, since with such a standard implementation of the general range of finishing and installation processes, everything is carried out according to a single approved project, it is quite natural that upon moving in, residents have to make many changes to the layout, as well as to the order of placement of electrical points.

Some people are not satisfied with the quality of work, others want to change the template order and install everything in a new way, according to their own needs. This, in turn, requires additional expenses and considerable ones. But the apartment itself has already cost a huge amount and few people will like the extra expenses.

Replacing wiring in an old apartment

Almost the same picture emerges when it is necessary to carry out major repairs in an old apartment. In addition to all finishing work, replace old wiring with new wiring connected to modern sockets and switches.

But, if finishing the finishing yourself does not seem to be a particularly difficult task, then how to change the old wiring with your own hands without having the appropriate knowledge? Hard to imagine.

Work related to electricity has an increased degree of accuracy and if a mistake is made, this can lead not only to the stoppage of vital activities in the apartment (turning on the lights, operation of electrical appliances and various equipment), but also create risks for human life. This means you either need to be a specialist yourself, or invite qualified electricians.

You should not rely on your own strength and consider yourself a knowledgeable person in this area, just by watching a couple of educational videos on the Internet. This is not the case. Everything is much more serious here.

Only qualified specialists will carry out high-quality electrical installation work. They will determine which wires are used (for wiring) by requesting linear diagrams from the BTI, carefully groove the walls and ceilings without causing a short circuit, and perform all the necessary work according to the specific wishes of the residents. Right up to drawing a line to the shields.

Key points in home network planning

Despite all the precautions, there is one job related to the electrical installation process that can and should be done by apartment residents. This means drawing up a plan for laying a new network and determining the location of electrical points.

Only the owners of the apartment can draw up such a diagram and indicate on it the following points:

• Places where sockets and switches will be most conveniently located.
• The most suitable heights from the floor to the location of electrical points.
• The number of ceiling and wall lamps and areas for their fastening.
• Type of wiring (open or hidden) and so on.

It is important to approach this task very responsibly. Make diagrams separately for each room. Pay special attention to rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen). You can take a photo of the wiring in an apartment found on the Internet as a sample, if the size and layout plans match.

Those who know how to work in special computer programs such as CAD can make clearer diagrams using the designations included in the program for various parts and elements directly related to electrical engineering. Their designations completely coincide with those officially approved. Such diagrams will be more understandable for professional electricians.

Be careful, children!

The main attention of young parents when solving the problem of replacing old wiring with new ones is focused on the safety of children. It is important for them that sometimes overly curious kids cannot accidentally harm themselves by becoming interested in electrical items.

In such cases, closed sockets with special interlocks are purchased if they are installed in places accessible to children.

Wires are hidden in walls or in electrical boxes (if the wiring is open). The best option in modern living conditions is remote control of electricity using a remote control.

Techniques for conducting and hiding wiring in an apartment

The two most well-known methods of wiring in an apartment: hidden and open. The first, as stated above, involves grooved walls and ceilings.

At the same time, at the time of laying the wires in the grooves, for protection and to ensure the convenience of further work, the wiring is pulled through the corrugation. Having secured it in the recess along the entire line of the excavation, plastering work is carried out. Align the places where the corrugation is laid and then carry out the usual finishing work (putty and painting or wallpapering).

Unlike the hidden type, the open type is based on the visible distribution of wiring throughout the apartment. This method of arranging wires along surfaces can be used in the event that a certain old section of wiring is blocked or if it is necessary to carry out a specifically open form of electrical wiring.

Here, instead of corrugation, plastic electrical boxes (cable channels) of various sections are used, which are mounted on the surface of the walls vertically or horizontally. The wiring is located inside the cable.

Laying wires on the floor and ceiling

The open type of wiring and protection of wiring in apartments is not used as often as the hidden type. It is worth agreeing that, for example, wiring along the ceiling in an apartment looks much more advantageous when hidden, and the presence of too many cable channels can create a feeling of cramping in the apartment.

This method of electrical installation is more suitable for private houses, where this type of wiring is dictated by fire safety measures.

One of the options for the aesthetic design of open wiring is to run the wiring in the apartment along the floor. In this case, it is convenient to lay wires in hollow plastic skirting boards, which simultaneously serve as cable ducts.

The premises acquire external aesthetics. Most often, in this way, television wires or low current (telephone and computer wires) are hidden.

Photo of wiring in the apartment