If the process of constructing a staircase is already behind you and a magnificent pine structure, made by yourself, is already in your country house, then it's time to start painting it. How and with what to paint the staircase system, what types of paint and varnish products to give preference - this article will tell you about this and much more.
A pine staircase coated with varnish looks beautiful and durable
Features of painting wooden surfaces
Varnishing and painting pine products has its own characteristics. After all, as you know, wood, unlike metal, plastic and stone, is hygroscopic. Besides, don't worse than water its surface is eaten away by paints, varnishes and solvents. This can cause the wood fibers to change and the surface to become rough.
That is why you can paint a pine staircase with your own hands only with a coating that is intended specifically for these purposes.
Due to its unique resinous structure, pine wood requires a special approach and certain knowledge Does wood need to be painted?
The texture of the wood itself is quite beautiful and can be used as part of the decor. In this case, its coating can be made transparent or translucent.
Pine has a high content of resin that impregnates the material. Therefore, not all paint will apply evenly to the tarred area.
By painting wood, you not only make it more attractive, but also protect it from external factors stain
This layer is mandatory and should be the first when processing wood. Its advantages:
- firstly, it prevents the tree from fungus;
- secondly, it protects against rotting;
- thirdly, it does not allow midges to breed in the wood.
In addition, the stain forms a moisture barrier and prevents the pine from cracking.
Pine wood releases a large amount of resin and therefore requires very careful processing However, this coating alone is not enough, since it is not able to protect the wood from mechanical wear. And you will agree that walking along the soaked stairs only barefoot or in slippers is not very comfortable.
What coating to apply
The second layer after applying the stain should be varnish or enamel.
From the right choice high-quality coating depends appearance the entire structure Enamel
For coloring wooden stairs from low-grade wood best choice there will be enamel. It will hide the putty on knots and cracks and protect the surface from wear and mechanical damage. In addition, the enamel layer is very easy to care for – you just need to wash it periodically.
Enamel can hide all imperfections in wood texture Varnish
If the surface of a pine staircase is smooth and free of any damage, then varnish would be the best choice. It will highlight the beauty of the texture and elevate its appearance.
If pine wood highest quality, then it can be varnished The varnished surface of a pine staircase looks extremely beautiful.
When to paint
Many novice craftsmen are interested in the question of when to paint and varnish a pine staircase - before installation or after.
You can paint the stairs both after assembly and before, depending on the type of structure According to many experts, you need to coat a product with varnish or paint like this:
- If for installation staircase design apply anchor bolts, screws and studs, then it is best to apply a layer of coating to the component parts before joining them together. This will reliably protect from negative external influences those planes that will be inaccessible after installation of the system.
- If, when building a staircase with your own hands, you use glue to connect its components, then you need to coat the surface with varnish or paint on a ready-made staircase structure.
It is better to varnish the stairs already in a ready-made, fully assembled form. How to choose the right paint and varnish
Before deciding on the desired coating, it is necessary to divide the working surface of the pine staircase into separate components, since they have absolutely different mode operation.
When choosing paint and varnish, you should give preference to proven brands For example, steps are subject to more severe wear - stilettos and heels can leave marks on the wood surface if the protective layer of the coating is weak.
At the same time, handrails and fittings, as well as risers, experience almost no overload. And, therefore, their coating has more of a decorative function. Hence the choice of materials.
Fittings (balusters and railings) must also be coated with high-quality paint and varnish products Deciding on the type of coverage
So how to paint a pine staircase with your own hands and choose the right varnish and paint?
For the working surface of the steps, alkyd floor enamels are used - for example, domestic paint PF-266, as well as its imported analogues.
In a specialized store you can choose any color The best varnish for pine stairs - polyurethane parquet. Its cost is quite high, but despite this it is of very high quality and forms a strong and wear-resistant protective surface.
For those surfaces that do not experience strong mechanical stress, we can recommend PF-115 enamels.
The paint and varnish industry today offers many high-quality types of varnishes and paints for wood processing As for varnish, the most the best option are affordable nitrocellulose varnishes of the NTs series or alkyd PF-170.
Dyeing process
So, we now know how to paint a pine staircase. It remains to figure out how to do it yourself.
When purchasing varnish for pine wood, carefully read its instructions The entire dyeing process is divided into the following stages:
- Degreasing the surface.
- Application of putty.
- Polishing the product.
- Painting the stairs.
Processing of the staircase structure must occur in a clearly defined sequence Degreasing
This is the first step preliminary work. Pine, as you know, has a resinous surface, and in order to remove it, it is necessary to treat the product with a special solvent. Regular turpentine is perfect for these purposes.
To degrease the surface of a pine staircase, you can use regular turpentine. Putty
In order to repair all existing flaws in the structure, it must be puttied. In this case, the best choice would be a special acrylic putty on wood.
Before painting, the product must be puttied, thereby making the surface perfectly smooth. Grinding
Immediately before painting the pine stairs, to obtain flawless surface, the product must be sanded. It is better to process steps using a grinder, and balusters and railings by hand.
The paint will lay down in an even layer on a well-sanded surface. Coloring
It is better to paint a pine structure with a brush. Alkyd enamel or viscous varnish cannot be sprayed with a spray gun; for a roller, the surface of the stairs has a rather difficult shape.
Painting is carried out in three layers, and polyurethane varnish can be applied to steps in 6-7 layers, since in addition to its aesthetic function, it also serves as protection against mechanical damage.
Painting should be done with gloves and in compliance with all safety standards. After applying the first layer and drying it completely, the entire surface is sanded with zero-grade sandpaper.
Now you know how to paint a pine staircase with your own hands and choose the varnish. But, if for some reason you do not want to build and then paint the structure yourself, then you can always take advantage of the offers of our online store and buy from us a ready-made staircase made of pine or any other material
A pine staircase painted carefully and in compliance with all the rules looks extremely beautiful and impressive At first glance, painting the stairs is not difficult at all - just pick up a brush and paint. But in order for the structure to serve as an interior decoration and remain beautiful for as long as possible, it is necessary to choose the coating wisely and apply it correctly. Therefore, next we want to tell you how to paint a pine staircase in a house, and how to do it correctly.
All existing paints that can be used for stairs are divided into two types:
- Covering- cover the wood with an opaque film of a certain color, as a result of which its natural pattern is hidden;
- Toning- these coatings preserve the wood grain, but at the same time give the wood a certain color.
It must be said that absolutely transparent coatings are also used, i.e. varnishes. Of course, our task is to paint the stairs, not varnish them. But, varnishes are often applied over paint, which helps protect it from external influences and give it a deeper color.
Note! In some cases, the use of varnish is simply necessary, for example, if the stairs are covered with stain.
Selecting covering paints based on composition
First of all, we note that pine does not have any features that greatly distinguish it from other types of wood. Therefore, when choosing what to paint a pine staircase with, you can consider all existing wood paints as an option.
The most common and suitable for our purposes are the following compositions:
- Alkyd and alkyd-urethane;
- Polyurethane;
- Water-dispersed;
- Oily.
Alkyd and alkyd-urethane
These paints are made on the basis of alkyd resins. Alkyd-urethane coatings also contain polyurethane resins, which, according to manufacturers, paint and varnish materials(hereinafter LKM), improve the basic qualities of paint.
True, in practice, the properties of the coating depend more on the quality of the alkyd paint, and not on the presence or absence of polyurethane resins in its composition. In other words, if you buy a good, expensive alkyd paint from a reputable manufacturer, it will be better than a cheap alkyd-urethane paint.
Note! All alkyd paints and varnishes contain organic solvents, as a result of which they have a pungent and toxic odor. Of course, after drying, this smell disappears.
The following points can be highlighted from the features of these compositions:
- They fit well on the surface and form an even glossy or matte film;
- They have a rich color;
- Resistant to moisture, detergents and abrasion. Therefore, they can be used for painting steps and landings.
One of the disadvantages is that over time, these compounds fade in the sun and begin to crack. But, as we have already said, a lot depends on the quality of the coating. Therefore, if you do not save, the coating will last a long time.
In general, we can say that most often pine stairs are painted with these paints. So if you don't have any special requirements to LMB, for example, saving a tree pattern, then you can stop there.
Polyurethane
If you are looking for something to paint the staircase in a pine house so that you can forget about this procedure for many years, use polyurethane paint. It is a two-component paintwork material, therefore it is classified as a professional coating.
Among the advantages of polyurethane paints, the following points can be highlighted:
- Resistance to mechanical stress, including abrasion;
- UV resistance;
- Excellent adhesion;
- Durability;
- Fits well on the surface, forming an even film;
- Has a rich color.
The disadvantages include quite high price. In addition, as we have already said, the coating is two-component, i.e. Before use, the paint components must be mixed in certain proportions, so it is not as convenient to use as ready-made one-component compositions.
Water-dispersed
These paints and varnishes are made on the basis of acrylate resins and their modifications. The most main feature of these coatings is that they do not contain organic solvents, unlike all of the above analogues. These coatings are an aqueous dispersion.
In other words, undissolved polymer particles form a suspension in water. After paint is applied to the surface, the water evaporates and the acrylate resins polymerize and form a film on the surface, which can be either water-soluble or water-resistant, depending on the type of paint.
Advice! For stairs you need to use waterproof paint, since the structure will often be subjected to wet cleaning.
The following points can be highlighted from the features of these coatings:
- They form a thin film on the surface, as a result of which they can preserve the texture of the wood, even if it is poorly expressed, not to mention brushing;
- Dries quickly. As soon as the water evaporates, the coating immediately polymerizes;
- Has no smell.
Water-dispersion coatings also have disadvantages:
- Instability to abrasion;
- High cost, especially for high-quality waterproof paints.
Therefore, water-dispersed compositions are not very suitable for painting steps and landings. Of course, you can paint with them, but you will have to renew the coating somewhat more often than when using other analogues described above.
Oily
These paints have recently been rarely used, since their properties are significantly inferior to more modern coatings, which we have already talked about. Visually they resemble alkyd paints, however, they are inferior in durability.
Their main advantage is their low cost. Therefore, if you want to restore the staircase with your own hands minimal costs, for example, at the dacha, you can use oil paint.
Choosing tinting paints
Tinting paints can be divided into two types:
- Impregnations;
- Azure.
Impregnations
Impregnations include stains and other compounds that, unlike paints, do not form a film on the surface, but are absorbed into the structure of the wood, coloring the fibers.
According to the method of application of impregnation, it can be divided into two types:
- Finishing- do not require additional coverage. These include all kinds of formulations based on wax and oil;
- Requiring additional coverage- a transparent varnish is usually applied on top of such impregnations. These compositions include stains.
Separately, it should be said about modern stains, which allow you to reliably imitate various types of wood. With their help, you can turn pine into mahogany or, for example, bleached oak.
Lazuri
Lazuli, or glaze paints, are a composition based on varnish and pigments. In other words, these are translucent paints.
Since these coatings have the same composition as covering paints, they also have the same properties. Therefore, there is nothing more to say about them.
Lucky
Regarding the choice of transparent coatings, optimal solution is parquet varnish. It is resistant to abrasion and is not afraid of washing and exposure to sunlight.
You can also use yacht varnish. Unlike parquet, it can be used both indoors and outdoors.
In other words, the varnish withstands weathering well and low temperature. Therefore, for processing stairs in country houses that are visited seasonally or from time to time, it is even more preferable than its parquet counterpart.
Painting technology
So, we figured out the types of paintwork materials. Now let's look at how to properly paint a pine staircase. After all, if you perform this procedure in violation of technology, even the most expensive and quality paint will not give the desired result.
As we have already said, pine does not have any special features in terms of applying paint and varnish. Therefore, the work is carried out in the same way as painting a staircase made of larch, spruce, oak or any other species.
It includes several stages:
- Preparation of work equipment;
- Preparing the stairs;
- Painting.
Preparation of work equipment
In addition to the paint itself, you need to prepare the following materials:
- Wood putty;
- Masking tape;
- Plastic film or newspapers;
- Wash.
Note! If you have a hair dryer, you won't need to wash it off.
You will also need some tools:
- Paint brush and roller;
- Roller tray;
- Putty knife;
- Sandpaper;
- Sander;
- Vacuum cleaner.
Preparing the stairs
Before you paint a pine staircase, you need to prepare it. Please note that the quality of painting depends on preparation, so be careful at this stage responsibly.
Preparation involves doing the following:
| Illustrations | Actions |
|
|
Cover the floor around the stairs with film or paper. |
|
|
Seal the places where the stairs meet the wall masking tape so as not to stain the walls during work. |
|
|
If you are going to paint a staircase that has already been used, it is probably covered with old varnish or paint. It is advisable to remove this coating completely. Erasing it with sandpaper is very difficult and takes a long time, so it’s better to use:
|
|
|
A hairdryer allows you to heat the coating and then easily remove it with a spatula. The remover is applied to the surface for a while and dissolves the old paint, after which it is also removed with a spatula.
|
|
|
If you are sure that old paint holds securely on the base and will not begin to peel off in the near future, just rub it with sandpaper until a matte surface appears. |
|
|
All cracks on the surface of the product, as well as gaps between parts and chips must be filled with putty. Apply the composition with a narrow spatula and level the surface. After the putty has hardened, do not forget to clean it with the same spatula or sandpaper with fine abrasive.
|
|
|
Finishing preparatory work be sure to vacuum all surfaces of the stairs, as dust and small debris can undo all the work done. |
Advice! Upon completion of the preparatory work, try to immediately begin painting so that the surface does not have time to become covered with dust.
Painting
Instructions for painting stairs are as follows:
| Illustrations | Actions |
|
|
Work should begin with the preparation of paintwork materials. Paint that is too thick must be diluted with a solvent, which is selected individually for the type of paint, for example, water-dispersed paints are diluted with clean water. Then the composition must be thoroughly mixed. To give the coating a certain color or shade, add color to it. Keep in mind that not all paints can be tinted. Manufacturers usually report this possibility on the packaging. The color, like the solvent, is selected individually. Pour a small amount of the finished paint into a flat container. Preparing the varnish is done in exactly the same way. |
|
|
Start painting with the fences. Most often, clear varnish is used for railings. Apply it with a brush in a thin, even layer. Then wait until it dries completely and repeat the procedure again. |
|
|
Once the railings are painted, proceed to the remaining surfaces of the stairs. Paint the structure from top to bottom. Start by painting large areas using a roller. Dip the tool into the paint and squeeze lightly so that the paint does not drip. Then roll the roller over the surface. |
|
|
Treat hard-to-reach areas with a paint brush. Paint the entire staircase in this manner. After the coating has hardened, repeat the procedure at least one more time. If you are using water-dispersion paint, it is advisable to apply it in three layers. |
It must be said that the technique of applying impregnation is somewhat different from conventional painting, since the composition is not just applied, but rubbed into the surface. Therefore, when applying it, you need to make multiple circular and longitudinal movements. When painting normally, you should try, on the contrary, not to run the tool twice over the painted surface.
Conclusion
That's all we wanted to tell you about how to paint a pine staircase with your own hands, and how to do it correctly so that the result, as they say, is “pleasant to the eye.” Finally, be sure to watch the video in this article and thereby consolidate the information received.
The main advantages of pine furniture are its pleasant texture, reasonable cost and long term operation. It was these factors that became main reason its popularity among consumers. However, in most cases, wooden products are not tinted or painted, but only coated with transparent varnish.
Pine furniture is durable, beautiful in appearance and relatively low in cost.
There are several good reasons for this:
- buyers can create a furniture set to their taste without any unnecessary problems, regardless of the manufacturer, since the final finishing of pine wood products with colorless varnish will be the same for everyone;
- In terms of its structure, pine is a loose wood species. And when painting mixtures are applied to the surface, the distribution of the pigment is not entirely uniform, which can somewhat spoil the appearance of the wooden set;
- the presence of knots in the wood, even with proper drying of the material, does not guarantee the absence of traces of plant resins. And this has a significant impact on the color of the wood during operation;
- Since solid pine furniture is in the segment of inexpensive sets, its subsequent processing will lead to an increase in the cost of the final product.
But what to do when you want to have an exclusive collection of wooden furniture?
Methods for painting pine furniture
Tinting highlights natural color pine and hides various wood defects.
Despite some peculiarities of pine wood tinting, consumer demand for painted furniture is constantly growing. Manufacturers are developing and launching production of sets tinted to resemble cherry, walnut, and oak. For this purpose, both expensive equipment and retraining of specialized specialists are being completely updated.
Expanding the range of products makes it possible to satisfy only a small part of buyers for painted furniture. By standardizing the process of changing the type of product in this way, the manufacturer will in any case not be able to offer a complete color scheme. For this reason, many consumers decide to take the risky step of painting solid pine furniture themselves.
Types of painting for pine wood furniture:
- tinting;
- full painting;
- varnishing.
Return to contents
Solid wood furniture tinting
Pine wood has a very beautiful natural color, golden-amber, which allows this furniture to fit into almost any type of interior.
Having given it the necessary shade using tinting, the wood structure remains as environmentally friendly and continues to “breathe”.
Furniture tinting is the process of changing the color of a surface with dyes while maintaining its visible structure. Dyeing is carried out to prepare the wood for a transparent finish.
It is best to paint pine furniture in several layers, sanding the previous layers with fine sandpaper.
Toning allows you to:
- enhance the natural color of wood and highlight its texture;
- even out the uneven color of product parts;
- paint light wood in a darker tone, which makes it possible to perfectly hide some surface defects;
- give pine furniture the appearance of a valuable species;
- get a color unusual for wood: gray, green, blue.
To process pine furniture, artificial aniline dyes, aqueous solutions of tannins, acids and salts are used, which have light-resistant properties, are well absorbed by wood and easily dissolve in water.
When tinting pine wood, the following factors are taken into account:
- The surface to be treated must be sanded very carefully. It is advisable to finish the finishing with sanding paper No. 180.
- Before tinting, pine must be treated with wood conditioner (special primer).
- The surface of the products should not contain dark spots, dye drips.
- After high-quality painting, pine furniture acquires flat surface with low gloss.
After the entire surface of the furniture has been treated with stain, it should dry well. Next, the wood is varnished or covered with translucent paint.
Return to contents
Varnishing and painting of products
Before applying varnish, it is necessary to coat the surface of the furniture with a primer and allow it to dry.
If desired, pine furniture can be painted in a uniform matte color or varnished.
Painting pine furniture presents many difficulties that arise due to the characteristics of the wood. Such moments arise due to the presence of resinous substances on the surface being treated, which prevents the product from being evenly coated. Therefore, before painting the furniture, it will need to be deresined, which will be discussed below.
The technology for applying paint or varnish consists of:
- Clean furniture from old coverings. If there are knots and irregularities, remove them.
- Deresinate the wood.
- Fill cracks or chips with putty and allow to dry.
- Apply primer with a wide brush or roller.
- After the primer has dried, you can begin to paint the furniture. If there is a large amount of work to be done, then it is better to use an airbrush or roller. In other cases, you can get by with a small brush.
- It is better to cover the surface with a coloring composition in several layers. Immediately before application, sand the previous layer with fine sandpaper.
For high-quality application and stability of the coating, it is better to use the following materials:
Before you begin varnishing or painting, make sure there is no pine resin left on the surface.
- varnishes. Can be made from nitrocellulose or alcohol based. Regardless of the chosen type, they perfectly highlight the natural color of pine and dry quickly enough;
- enamels. They completely hide the wood texture, and the furniture takes on the appearance of plastic or MDF. For high-quality application and stability of the coating, it is better to use high-strength polyurethane enamels. Before application, the paint mixture must be shaken thoroughly;
- paints. The pigmented composition of paint mixtures hides minor defects. As for alkyd and urethane-alkyd, the former are well applied, and the latter are suitable for previously painted surfaces.
Ain't nothing better natural look natural wood furniture. Therefore, when choosing coating products, you need to choose the most transparent ones that will protect the furniture but will not change its appearance. Furniture needs to be coated to make it moisture-resistant, scratch-resistant, and protect it from dirt.
There are 5 types of products for treating wooden furniture.
Water- and dirt-repellent impregnations, which also protect furniture from fungus. If you are treating children's furniture, make sure that the formulations are safe for children and do not contain toxic substances.
Varnishes create both protection and a smooth surface, protecting furniture from scratches. Varnishes are matte and glossy, different shades, from colorless to dark. Therefore, varnishes are used to give furniture more decorative look. However, varnishes do not react well to humidity, and for outdoor furniture won't fit. Varnishes also react to heat, so varnished countertops will need to be protected from hot mugs of tea.
Paint will make the furniture elegant, bright, and protect it from moisture, dirt and scratches. But the original appearance of the tree will be lost. Therefore, paint is often used for children's furniture. The advantage of coloring is that you can change the appearance and repaint objects.
Wood oil protects against moisture and dirt. These oils often contain wax, which gives the furniture a pleasant matte shine. Oil is good for treating garden furniture that is used outdoors.
Liquid wax, or wax-resin mastic, is the most expensive and labor-intensive furniture treatment, but due to the wax coating, the wood will become velvety, with a matte sheen. This is the most ancient type of furniture processing. It is also the most effective and environmentally friendly. Wax perfectly protects wood from moisture, dirt, and scratches. The wax contains natural antiseptics that protect furniture from fungus. Wax is successfully used by furniture restorers. Wax does not like high temperatures, so you should not cover it with it. kitchen countertop– there will be traces of heat on it. Furniture in saunas is also not covered with wax, as it is a flammable substance.
Which furniture treatment product to choose?
To choose a furniture coating product, you need to decide what you want to get as a result.
If your goal is to emphasize the structure of the fibers, preserve the natural, natural look wood, then choose oil or wax.
If you want to treat children's furniture, make it bright, shiny, cheerful - you can choose acrylic lacquer odorless or acrylic paints. They are quite dense and will protect furniture well from scratches.
If you only want to protect furniture from fungi and moisture, then use neutral impregnations that do not leave a film on the surface. And don't forget to treat your furniture twice a year - at the beginning and end of the season. Then it will serve not only you, but also your grandchildren.
Our company produces furniture from solid pine and offers it to customers without coating with varnish, oil or other compounds. This allows you to evaluate the quality of the wood and the work itself. And at the customer’s request, our craftsmen will select the appropriate treatment product and make a professional coating.
You can view samples of cottage and garden furniture produced by Industrial Complex Technologies here
You can order our furniture by calling production numbers
How to cover the roof at the dacha? In the vast majority of cases, people who ask this question are interested in how to make their roof as reliable as possible and at the same time spend less money. In this article we will talk about the most affordable and durable coating options.
Read also: Do-it-yourself roof gable cladding
Asbestos cement slate
Traditional roofing material, equally suitable for both cottage and:
- gazebos;
- toilet;
- baths;
- cabins.
Its undoubted advantage is:
- durability (service life – 40-50 years);
- resistance to temperature changes;
- good sound insulation ability;
- strength;
- non-flammability;
- maintainability.
In the latter case, any damaged sheet can be easily replaced with a new one without dismantling half of the roof.
TO significant shortcomings include the unattractive appearance of the coating. However, it is currently being supplied to the market and 
painted slate. In addition, it is easy to coat it with a silicone pigmented composition with your own hands.
In addition, the slate sheets themselves are quite heavy, which means that it will be necessary to create load-bearing structure from thicker beams, which negatively affects the cost of work.
Also, the dust generated during the processing of slate is extremely harmful to health - the asbestos it contains is a carcinogen. Moreover, the cutting process of this material quite labor-intensive and, in the absence of an angle grinder, takes a lot of time.
Ondulin
Externally, it is not much different from the above-mentioned painted slate. It is made on the basis of cellulose, bitumen and mineral resins. Ondulin looks nice. The palette offered by the manufacturer is very diverse and allows you to choose the ideal option for almost any occasion.
The lightness of the material greatly simplifies working with it. Moreover, it is allowed to lay it directly on the old coating.
Cutting onduline is easy - a regular sectioning knife is best. For the veranda it is roof covering it will do just fine, since it does not require the creation of a strong sheathing.
Soft slate is also not afraid of mold or fungi. However, as practice shows, such disadvantages roofing material quite a bit of. Although the manufacturer claims that its service life is 30 years, in reality, ondulin loses its attractive appearance much sooner.
In addition, soft slate:
- not suitable for a flat roof - minimum slope it should be 12 degrees;
- fades very quickly in bright sun;
- due to the heat it is often covered with bitumen stains;
- fragile, high temperatures make it soft, and low ones make it fragile;
- cannot support a person's weight;
- at 230 degrees it can ignite.
Thus, if you have to make a choice between classic and soft slate, preference should be given to the first option.
Euroroofing material
This type of material is cheaper and in some respects better than those previously described. It is sold in roll form and is mainly suitable for flat roofs, but sometimes they also cover slopes.
Its undoubted advantage is its strength. Its base consists of fiberglass or polyester.
Such material in the middle price segment can ensure dryness in the house for 15 or even 25 years. Expensive options can last up to 30. Such a long service life can be explained simply - modified bitumen is used as impregnation. Mineral coating of various shades gives it additional strength and aesthetic appeal.
There are two types of euroroofing felt on sale:
- The first one must be laid using a special burner;
- The 2nd one is laid using a cold method.
The coating in question is not without a number of disadvantages:
- the base under it must be additionally waterproofed;
- low-quality analogues quickly fail;
- installation is carried out only in the warm season.
It should be noted that it is not necessary to cover the roof with ordinary roofing felt. country house, as well as any other structure. The point is not at all in its unattractive appearance, but in the fact that it is simply not able to serve for a long time, because its base is made of the most ordinary cardboard.
Keramoplast
This material was developed by a domestic company. Outwardly it resembles slate. It is made from a mixture of polymers and ceramics.
Keramoplast is distinguished by its great strength and resistance to mechanical stress.
How and with what to paint wooden furniture. What paint to paint a wooden bed, table
It has beautiful view. It is currently produced in the following colors:
- red;
- black;
- brown;
- orange.
The pigment, in principle, does not fade; moreover, it is mixed into the composition and therefore there are no scratches or other damage to the appearance 
products cannot be damaged.
Keramoplast can be laid on roofs both in northern regions and in the subtropics. Its operating temperature range is from 80 degrees hot to 60 degrees below zero.
The service life is approximately 40 years. Moreover, one leaf weighs only 9 kilograms.
It has the following disadvantages:
- the sheets must be fastened well - they are easily deformed;
- sometimes shrinks over time;
- there are several analogues that are extremely unsuccessful, but look exactly the same;
- relatively high price - for one sheet they ask about 470 rubles.
Metal tiles or corrugated sheets
Although these two materials differ in appearance, their properties are absolutely identical. In both cases we are talking about galvanized steel sheet with polymer coating cold pressed.
The main advantages of the material are:
- durability (up to 40 years);
- external attractiveness;
- large assortment of colors;
- resistance to heat and cold;
- light weight.
Such disadvantages are characteristic of metal tiles:
- susceptibility to corrosion;
- sensitivity of the coating to mechanical damage;
- poor sound insulation;
- relatively high price - from 430 to 540 rubles per square meter.
Impregnation of garden furniture with wood-protective oil
Basic distinctive feature processing garden furniture, as well as any other wooden surfaces in outdoor conditions with oil, is that the oil does not form a film on the surface like ordinary varnish or paint, but penetrates deeply into the wood, impregnates it and makes the surface of the wooden product itself more durable, wear-resistant, and water-repellent. An oiled surface has the appearance of warm, natural wood and has a deeper matte sheen than a varnished wood surface. The active wood-protective additives contained in the oil protect the wood from rotting. In addition, the absence of a paint film on the surface allows the wood to change in volume under the influence of external factors (temperature and humidity) without cracking and peeling of the coating itself.
Oiled wood surfaces require different care than varnished surfaces. To keep the surface beautiful, the wood must be sanitized once a year, that is, re-impregnated with oil.
Attention! Only new, clean wooden surfaces that are not damaged by fungal diseases (rot, mold, blue stain) and insect pests or surfaces cleared of all types of coatings to bare wood.
For impregnation of garden furniture and any other similar wooden surfaces in outdoor conditions, it is recommended to use Pinotex Wood Oil.
When impregnating with oil, wooden surfaces must be dry and clean. Wood moisture content should be no more than 18%.
Clean before oiling wooden surface brush to remove dirt and dust.
Previously varnished or painted furniture should be stripped down to bare wood using a scraper, paint remover or a hot air gun.
To achieve the smoothest possible surface, sand the entire surface with fine sandpaper.
What is the best way to coat the wooden surface of furniture?
Carefully remove all sanding dust from the surface.
For longer-term protection of wood from damage in outdoor conditions by fungi and mold, it is recommended to impregnate the surface with colorless wood-protective impregnation Pinotex Base. Dry the surface for 24 hours.
Brush the wooden surface 1-2 times until it is saturated. Apply oil in a continuous layer along wood fibers. Remove excess oil that has not been absorbed with a rag no later than within an hour after application.
Attention! Dried oil that is not removed may form dark spots on the surface.
Attention!! Oil-soaked rags tend to spontaneously combust!
Therefore, all waste after work must be soaked in water and disposed of.
If possible, make sure that during oiling and drying the oil that insects and dirt do not fall on the surface, also protect the surface from moisture and direct sunlight.
Apply oil at a temperature not lower than +5°C.
Sanitary oiling of wooden surfaces is recommended to be carried out once a year, applying Pinotex Wood Oil to the surface in one layer.
How to varnish wooden furniture - working with a brush
Varnish wooden furniture not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Especially when it comes to furniture or wood products that have not previously been varnished. It should be noted that it is much easier to varnish wooden furniture that has been previously treated.
I'll start with the most difficult part - varnishing new, previously untreated furniture. The main problem is that after applying and drying the first layer, the surface becomes rough, even if it has been well sanded. The reason for this effect is two things: firstly, individual wood fibers swell, and secondly, if you apply varnish with a brush, small air bubbles form on the surface, which burst as they dry, leaving behind sharp edges of the varnish. Both of these problems can be solved quite successfully and not difficult.
To reduce the number of air bubbles on the surface of wooden furniture is necessary.
- If you don’t have a spray gun, apply varnish only with a brush. Never use a roller; it distributes the varnish very unevenly and creates a lot of bubbles.
- Before coating, the brush must be checked for the possibility of loose hairs and removed immediately.
- When varnishing, the first layer should be made as thin as possible.
- The varnish should be applied in even, long strokes, trying to distribute it as evenly as possible over the surface.
- If the can of varnish was stirred before starting work, you should wait until the bubbles come out of the varnish. And only after that start working.
- At the end of the work, remove the varnish from the brush and smooth the surface of the applied varnish with an almost dry brush.
Fig.1. To ensure that the furniture is smooth after varnishing, the varnish should be applied in at least two layers. In addition, after the first layer, it is necessary to sand the surface with 120-180 grit sandpaper to remove any loose wood fibers.
All these measures apply to both coating, previously untreated surfaces, and re-treated ones. However, these actions will not prevent wood fibers from swelling.
In order to make the surface smooth, it must be sanded. It should be remembered that sanding can only be done when the varnish has fully acquired its properties.
Review of impregnations for wooden furniture
The surface can be sanded manually or using grinder. For these purposes, sandpaper with a grain size of 120 - 180 is used. If you do not aim to obtain a polished surface, then it is enough to simply remove the burrs. Here you should be careful not to remove all the varnish when sanding, otherwise burrs will appear again when recoating.
After sanding, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the sanded varnish, and you can begin to apply the second coat. Any residue can be removed well non-woven material. They can also check the quality of grinding. If the rag does not cling to anything, then all burrs have been removed.
When applying subsequent layers, there will be no more burrs, but there is a possibility of air bubbles appearing, so you should pay attention to the features of applying varnish described earlier.
Now a few words about how to get the effect of a polished surface. In principle, there are no secrets here. To achieve a polished surface, the following must be considered.
- The surface of wooden furniture should be smooth and well sanded before coating, this will facilitate further processing. You could even say that it should be perfectly smooth.
- Sanding must be done after each layer.
- If in order to remove burrs it is enough to simply grind them off, then to obtain the polishing effect it is necessary to remove a thin layer of varnish over the entire surface. Visually, it looks like the entire surface, after grinding, looks matte, and not just those parts where there were burrs and varnish deposits.
- When sanding, use sanding paper with a grit of 240 - 320.
- When sanding and polishing the last layers, the sanding paper grit is 800.
- To achieve a mirror shine, wet sanding should be used by adding a little water to the surface.
After reading what has been written, you might think that this is a complex and time-consuming process. This is true, but it is not so complicated if we are talking about making something small, such as a chest of drawers.
We are pleased to offer you a wide variety of solid pine furniture that will serve you for many years, subject to the following rules for the use and care of pine furniture.
But first, a little about pine furniture:
Pine furniture improves the microclimate in the house and has a pleasant smell. Pine destroys microbes and has a bactericidal effect. Pine furniture is not only beautiful, but also good for health. Most often, pine furniture is purchased because of its medicinal properties. This type of wood really has a beneficial effect on the health of the people it surrounds. Another advantage of pine is its resistance to rotting. Unlike many other types of wood, pine is not susceptible to insect attack. You can rest assured that termites and other bugs will not live in it! Since we care about your health, as well as the health of your children, any pine furniture is made from natural, environmentally friendly materials and coated with water-based varnish. We are constantly expanding our range and are always happy to offer you a variety of furniture for the living room, bedroom, hallway, kitchen and children's room. You can choose the style, color and size of furniture that suits you. When choosing furniture made of pine, you will definitely be sure of high quality, reliability, functionality and comfort. Exclusively clean materials And great design- these are the attributes of our pine furniture. Pine furniture is made from raw materials harvested in Karelia.
How to protect wooden garden furniture?
In production it is used furniture board made from real environmentally friendly Karelian pine. The production is located next to the cutting sites, which allows for high-quality selection of material. To provide required quality solid wood is selected. Today, pine products, especially beds and children's furniture (thanks to attractive price), are in greatest demand. Pine is not the easiest to process, but it is a noble and pleasant material for furniture to use. All the tips listed below will help keep your solid pine furniture in excellent condition for many years.
Caring for pine furniture.
It is necessary to wipe pine furniture with a simple solution: water with added soap.
Pine furniture is not afraid of wet cleaning! During repairs, be sure to cover the furniture with film so that building mixtures won't stain your furniture. Pine furniture must be protected from mechanical influences. Avoid contact with chemicals and cleaning powders. Do not use cleaning liquids or abrasive powders, as they may contact chemical reaction with pine covering. Such reactions accelerate the aging of wood. If you get shallow scratches, don't worry. You can remove them yourself - lightly moisten the area where the scratch is located, then carefully treat the scratch area with fine sandpaper, after which you need to rub in polishing wax with a soft rag, and your furniture will be like new again!
Furniture made from solid pine does not create difficulties in maintenance. Solid wood furniture is easy to buy and enjoy the convenience of its use and the aroma of pine. One of the most important factors What prolongs life and ensures long-term operation of pine furniture is the temperature and humidity of the air in the apartment. The temperature in a room with pine furniture should be the same all the time, as this can cause it to become deformed. Changes in humidity have a bad effect on wooden furniture, worsening its appearance and significantly reducing its service life. We do not recommend placing furniture too close to heating devices, and also locate it in close proximity to artificial sources moisture. Furniture made from solid pine is contraindicated in direct sunlight. To prevent furniture from fading and cracking, do not place it opposite a window in the sun.
When using pine furniture, it is prohibited:
- Install cabinet furniture near heating sources closer than 80 cm.
- No need to leave doors open.
- Place furniture and mirrors in direct sunlight.
- Move cabinets, chests of drawers, tables, etc. holding them by the covers.
- Stand on the bottom shelf of products.
- Use the bed without a mattress to avoid damage to the lattice (flooring, base).
- Place hot objects on furniture without thermal insulation.
- Pull out large drawers of a chest of drawers, cabinets, cabinets, and various storage compartments using one handle, to avoid skewing the drawer and failure of the guides.
All of the above effects can affect both the coating (color, its accelerated aging) and the solid wood itself - up to warping and even deformation wooden elements furniture.
The Seller's warranty conditions are met subject to the above rules for the operation and care of pine furniture. Our online store provides the buyer with a guarantee for the goods sold, depending on the category of furniture and for the period determined by law Russian Federation. Warranty obligations apply to all defects in furniture products purchased by the buyer, with the exception of those that arose through no fault of the seller (for example, in case of violation by the buyer of the operating rules furniture products) or about which the buyer was warned in advance before the delivery of the furniture.
During the warranty period, the company undertakes, within the time limits specified by the Law of the Russian Federation “On the Protection of Consumer Rights,” to repair or replace low-quality goods with goods that meet the terms of the quality contract. Mechanical damage and defects resulting from improper operation are not subject to warranty service.
Among various types coatings of wooden products, in particular furniture, special place takes up wax.
Painting pine furniture
Despite its significantly lower popularity and demand among buyers, it has firmly taken its place in the assortment. various companies, producing household chemicals. Wax as a coating for furniture and wood products has a very long history - in fact, before the development of the chemical industry, it was one of the most popular means for treating wood indoors.
What are the advantages and features of natural wax?
Wax gives the surface a high degree of water resistance and protection from dirt, emphasizing the natural appearance of the wood texture. Wood wax has important feature– it is not suitable for covering wooden floors, since it cannot withstand the intense mechanical load that falls on any floor, especially in high-traffic areas.
The procedure for applying wax to a wooden surface is much simpler than varnish and much faster. Clean and, if necessary, sand the surface of the product, then use a cloth (preferably cotton) to apply wax to the product. thin layer. Wait for the wax to dry (wait at least 30 minutes), then remove any excess with a clean cloth. When covering a product with the “oil-wax” system, wax is applied only after the oil has completely dried on the fifth or seventh day from the moment of impregnation.
What are the differences between waxes and natural wood oils?
Oil permeates the wood after application, while wax forms a thin film on the surface of the product. But unlike a solid polymer varnish film, wax allows the wood to “breathe,” albeit not as intensely as when coated with oil. Therefore, wax provides less protection from abrasion and mechanical damage, but it is much better at protecting the wood from drying out and rotting processes inside the fibers.
In what cases is wax more preferable than oil or wood varnish?
If the product does not need high degree protection, but at the same time you want to preserve its most natural appearance (which is impossible when using varnish) and make it pleasant to the touch, then wax is definitely your choice. If we are talking about, for example, wooden products outdoors, then natural wood oil will help effectively.
From pine? Perhaps the question will make the reader smile: is it worth racking your brains over such a simple operation? However, practice shows that the service life and quality of the appearance of the coating are directly proportional to the time spent on surface preparation and its application. Let's try to do the job according to all the rules.
On the picture - interfloor staircase. Material – pine.
Is wood any different from, say, metal in terms of application? paint coatings? Does pine stand out in any way compared to other types of wood?
- Unlike metal, wood is hygroscopic. Its surface absorbs paints and solvents just as well as water.
- Moistening or applying a layer of paint means the pile is raised: the wood fibers change their orientation, and the surface becomes rough.
- The wood texture itself is quite beautiful and can be used as a decorative element. Of course, in this case the final coating should be transparent or translucent.
- Pine is distinguished by a large amount of resin that impregnates the material. Not all paint will adhere to the tarred area; what is equally important is that the resin content is uneven. As a result, the coating itself may become uneven.
Let us clarify: resinity is a property not only of pine. All conifers have it to one degree or another.
Basic moments
Let's discuss a few questions that inevitably arise when building a wooden staircase with your own hands.
Choice of coverage
Is it necessary surface layer? Why are various oil- and wax-based impregnations worse than varnish or enamel? Can't you just cover the steps, bowstrings, balusters and handrails with stain?
Stain is definitely not enough. Any coating must create a barrier to moisture: fluctuations in atmospheric humidity, inevitable throughout the year, will quickly cause relatively loose pine to crack and warp. In addition, do not forget about rotting and woodworms.
Impregnation is quite capable of protecting the tree from most adverse factors. However, one trap awaits us here: oil and wax will not protect the surface of the steps from mechanical wear. Walking along the soaked stairs only barefoot or in soft slippers... are you sure that this is comfortable?
Conclusions? They are, I think, obvious.
- For painting wooden stairs made of low-grade wood optimal choice – enamel. It will hide traces of putty on knots and cracks; more importantly, a dense surface layer will protect the surface from premature wear and minor mechanical damage. Finally, the enamel layer is easy to clean.
- If the surface of a pine staircase is free of significant defects, our choice is varnish. It will highlight the beauty of the texture, enhancing its appearance. If the pine seems too light to you, you can either cover it with stain before varnishing, or add color to the varnish itself.
Chicken or egg
What should you do first – assemble the staircase or paint/varnish its parts?
This question is an eternal stumbling block on thematic forums. Strong arguments can be made for both points of view.
- If self-tapping screws, bolts, studs or dowels are used as connecting elements, it is wiser to apply a final coating to the parts before assembly. In this case, those surfaces that will become inaccessible after assembling the stairs will be reliably protected from adverse influences.
- In the case where adhesive joints are used, the finished staircase should be painted or varnished. Wood glue is unlikely to bond painted surfaces as reliably; in addition, any adhesive joint is stronger the thinner the adhesive layer between the parts.
Choice of paint and varnish
How to paint a pine staircase? Or, if your choice is a varnish coating, what to varnish it with?
It is worth separating the working surface of the steps and all other elements of the staircase: they have completely different modes of operation. The steps are subject to severe wear and tear; In addition, pine, as we remember, is a species with low wood density. Stilettos or hard heels may well leave marks on it if the strength of the protective layer is low.
On the other hand, handrails and accessories for stairs (bowstrings, balusters) and the back side of the steps are practically not exposed to loads. Any coating will serve mostly decorative functions - of course, in addition to protection from rotting and moisture.
Hence the choice of materials:
- For work surface alkyd-based floor enamels are used for steps – domestic PF-266 and imported analogues. Brand preferences are deeply subjective, so we will not name specific names in order to avoid accusations of hidden advertising.
- The best varnish for pine stairs (more precisely, for the surface of the steps) - polyurethane parquet. Its price is quite high; but it forms an extremely durable and wear-resistant surface.
Advice: it is better to choose matte or semi-matte varnish rather than glossy. It shows less visible signs of wear, which will inevitably appear in the center of the steps, even after a long time.
- For surfaces that are not subject to intense mechanical stress, we can again recommend alkyd enamels PF-115 for exterior use: They are weather resistant but are not intended for floor painting. With varnishes it’s even easier: inexpensive ones will fully satisfy our requirements. nitrocellulose varnishes of the NC series or alkyd PF-170.
Technology
So, we have decided how to cover a pine staircase. You can start working. Where to begin?
Resin
One of typical problems pine has already been mentioned: resin. The resin content of the fibers and, most importantly, the resin pockets. How to get rid of this scourge?
Acetone or turpentine can help. Both solvents are excellent at removing traces of resin and dissolving resin accumulations in pockets. For cleaning use ordinary rags.
Putty
The optimal choice in our case is acrylic wood putty. Irregularities, cavities from knots and resin will have to be puttied 2-3 times with intermediate sanding: the putty shrinks when it dries.
If painting is to be done, the color of the putty does not matter; but when varnishing it is better to match it to the tone of the wood. The exception is the case when the final coating is dark tinted varnish: white patches on a light background under its layer will not be noticeable.
Grinding
A sander can be used on the planes, but the balusters, the surface of the steps between them and the handrails will have to be sanded by hand. For sanding, you will have to stock up on several types of sandpaper with different grits: trying to jump from 60 to 120 grit will only be a waste of time. You shouldn’t treat the stairs with zero polish: save it for interlayer sanding of the paintwork.
Painting
Painting a pine staircase is done with a brush: alkyd enamel or viscous varnish cannot be sprayed with a spray gun; for a roller, the surface of the stairs is too complex shape. Painting is carried out in at least three layers; polyurethane varnish can be applied on steps and in 6-7 layers: it performs not only decorative functions, but also provides reliable protection from mechanical damage.
After applying the first layer and drying it completely (regardless of whether we are talking about enamel or varnish), the entire surface is sanded with a zero polish. Enamel or varnish will inevitably raise the pile, but leaving the surface rough is not in our interests. Ideally, all layers except the final one are sanded.
Please note: before paint and varnish works you have to spring-cleaning premises. Dust can disfigure any coating.
