Do-it-yourself wooden flooring: wooden flooring designs, do-it-yourself installation. What floors are best to make in a private house The base of a wooden floor

Building a private house is a rather lengthy process that requires a certain amount of time and considerable effort. Many owners of suburban areas want to save on construction costs by doing some of the work themselves. To figure out how to make wooden floors in a private home, you should take care of preparing the materials, as well as choosing the necessary tools.

Choosing a floor design

Before starting work, you should select the type of floor construction. Among the most common are the following varieties:

single;
double;
concrete floor.

The choice of a specific design is based on the characteristics of the building in which the floor will be laid. The main factor influencing this decision is the nature of the use of the house. When choosing a single design, it is worth considering that it is only suitable for summer houses or dachas. The installation of such a floor in a house with year-round occupancy is unacceptable.

In this case, the boardwalk is simply laid on the logs. The thermal insulation of such a floor is very low. To construct such foundations, you do not need to prepare a lot of material. Work on installing a single floor is carried out quite quickly.

If you decide to build a capital a private house, in which you can live at any time, you should start building a double floor. This design is more insulated than the single version. The main layers of such a floor are the rough and finishing coating. Between them are placed layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. Such a floor arrangement can protect the entire structure of the house from destruction.

Often the rough layer of double flooring in country house made from unedged boards. Finishing made from tongue and groove boards. All stages of work can be carried out independently. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay.

Another option for creating a floor in a private house is a concrete base. Such designs are made using pouring concrete screed. If you meet all the requirements when creating such a floor, it will turn out durable and strong. It can also be finished with any coating.

Laying a wooden floor

Wooden flooring is chosen quite often to create a covering in private homes. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have high-quality coating made of wood. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

When carefully treated, wood flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance or physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, installation wooden flooring done with your own hands. To work, you will need to prepare a standard set of tools.

Before making a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of structure. The floor is made of several layers. It must contain heat and waterproofing. The underground plays a role air gap. Due to this, wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or mildew.

The floor covering is constantly subject to mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical indicators. Before installing the covering, the boards should be dried. Humidity wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. There should be no chips or cracks on them. Otherwise, this may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before installation, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the service life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

First you need to determine where to install the supports. Gravel should be poured in place of the removed fertile soil. Sand is poured on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be compacted thoroughly. The ends of the support pillars are wrapped with waterproofing material. Typically, roofing felt is used for this purpose.
After this, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports using corners and screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders recommend laying plywood sheets before installing insulation. Mineral wool is usually used as insulation material.
When the insulation layer has been laid, the rough flooring can begin. The boards should be selected so that they fit tightly together. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to eliminate distortions in the structure due to thermal expansion.
A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It is usually 200 microns thick. The joints of the canvas are taped with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are placed on the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should begin laying the finishing coating.

For the finished floor, solid wood boards are used. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, their appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose tongue and groove boards. Plywood can be covered in different ways decorative finishing. Floorboards are usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, through the use of varnish, you can emphasize the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor. You can build a heated floor with your own hands if you construct a concrete screed.

Concrete floor

Creating a concrete base requires some preparation. First, the site on which it is planned to create the floor must be cleared of debris. You also need to remove the top layer of soil. The earth must be compacted. Gravel is poured on top. The concrete floor structure should be insulated. The gravel layer is covered with sand. Once it is compacted, you can lay down plastic film. It will become a reliable waterproofing.

Then the work is carried out according to the standard scheme. Reinforcement bars are placed on the waterproofing layer and concrete solution is poured. In this case, the concrete screed is made in the same way as that installed in the apartment. To make the floor level, you need to set the beacons. As soon as the concrete dries, they should be removed. The solution is leveled using the rule. The work is done from the wall towards the doorway.

In the process of pouring concrete mortar, it is better to do the work according to certain rules. For example, the mixture must be fresh. Also, in the process of its preparation, cement of a certain brand is used. It must be no lower than M300. In addition, water and sand sifting are added to the solution. Plasticizers increase the strength of concrete.

If the screed is more than 5 cm, reinforcement should be laid. For this purpose, a ready-made mesh is usually purchased. She is laid on waterproofing film. When creating a heated floor system in a country house, the use of plasticizers and reinforcement is mandatory.

As soon as the concrete gains strength, you can pull out the beacons and fill the resulting voids with concrete mortar. It takes about a month for concrete to completely harden. A warm floor in a private house will require the installation of heating elements either during the screed or after its construction.

Drying the floor follows certain rules. The base should be covered with plastic film. The concrete must be wetted within three days. If the screed has a heated floor system, it is prohibited to turn it on until the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, the floor will crack.

Finishing

Laying the topcoat is quite simple. Decorative elements are installed independently. Choice finishing depends on the tastes of the owner of the house. It is also worth considering the characteristics of the floor.

There are several options. The most common of them is boardwalk. In this case, the finished floor does not need to be additionally covered. When choosing this option, you get a rather beautiful and practical coating. In addition, floor boards will last for decades if properly treated. They are usually impregnated with special compounds and varnished. This allows you to protect the floor from dirt and various chemicals.

Concrete flooring in a country house is usually done taking into account the installation of the finishing coating. Parquet is usually chosen for its finishing. However, such a floor will be quite expensive. It is characterized by high environmental friendliness and an excellent degree of thermal insulation. It is impractical to install parquet flooring in a country house, because it is not planned permanent residence. However, for a permanent structure such a coating will be optimal.

Other flooring materials include carpet, laminate, tile and linoleum. Laminate flooring is installed in the living room and bedrooms. Linoleum is only suitable for flooring in the hallway and kitchen. Tiles are also used to cover the floors in the kitchen and hallway. Carpet should also be used for the bedroom.

The variety of modern colors and flooring materials allows you to choose more best option coverings. Floors with different patterns look very beautiful. Looks impressive natural stone and wood.

conclusions

To figure out which types of flooring are more suitable for a private home, you should know the operating features of the building. For example, for country house there is no need to arrange the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in the warm season. Also, flooring in a private house is usually done using wood. This material has a low price and is also easy and quick to install.

For permanent buildings it will be necessary to equip more complex design. Wooden floors must have several layers, including hydro- and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you must carefully prepare. You will also have to pick up quality materials. Before deciding what type of flooring to install in a private home, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete foundation is being built in stages. It is chosen only when it is necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

The installation of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise the floors are short term will become unusable and will need to be replaced. Using some impregnations, you can protect the wood from rotting. Chemical methods protections are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that wood is chosen precisely because of this indicator, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between layers. fasten wood covering should be used using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

Source 1poderevu.ru

A subfloor refers to certain bases that form an ideal surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed at the floor covering.

In wooden buildings, subfloors are made using three methods:

wooden on joists;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Source fondeco.ru

Wooden floors on joists

IN wooden house the installation of a subfloor is no different from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only peculiarity is how the logs are attached:

There is no need to attach logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the base or foundation grillage, retreating a couple of centimeters from all walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11cm on all sides of the log.
Before laying the base, you should lay the bottom trim, which is made from a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. There is no need to rigidly strengthen them with strapping. You just need to fix them so that they do not wobble while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a distance of several centimeters from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before this, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. You must first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out the dimensions required for the groove in the wood, which will be required for the supporting function.

Important: It is recommended to add about 2 cm to further expand the joist. It must be remembered that the laying of the logs and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the installation of the waterproofing layer is completed.

Source kamtehnopark.ru

The standard steps between two logs are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, a choice is made of the lag section and the effective load. For small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, for heavy loads - 15x20, for medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load, if the beams have a small cross-section, then it is advisable to provide cross-sectional parameters of 30x40cm.

Installation of subfloors on joists

When the installation is done, you will need to do standard installation. It is performed in several stages:

It is necessary to secure the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the joists from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial block with boards that are wider than the joists. They will need to be nailed either along or below the joists.
The boards should be laid. They need to be placed on the cranial block, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it extends onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. They are laid in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. For creating ventilation gap All you need to do is punch counter-battens along the joists on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. The logs must be separated from the wall by a 2cm gap. Insulation will then be placed in them.

Source lineyka.net

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

Learn more about floor insulation in a wooden house in this video:

Plywood subfloors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has high hardness. Plywood is also used for floor coverings. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. You will need to provide a horizontal and level base or use leveling posts.
Attach to joists. The main thing is to position the logs correctly to ensure that the joint of the sheet falls on them. The joists must be positioned so that the top surface provides a straight line. The insulation and sound insulation are then removed from them.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick; if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

Source homius.ru

Before final installation begins, all debris and dust should be removed from the base. If possible, you should also do priming - primer treatment. The plywood must be secured with glue, and the head of the screw must be recessed.

Concrete floor

Like a rough and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete option occurs less frequently than others. A concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved using thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is smoother and more durable. Concrete floors in a wooden house are also chosen because they are better protected from destruction.

Source zamokok.ru

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay along the joists.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Colas less than 11 cm should be driven into the ground so that gravel can be poured over them. After this, it should be compacted and the pegs removed.
Next, sand is poured.
Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. Height installed rail must be equal to the height of the cord. Next, concrete is poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the slats.
Next, the concrete should be covered with film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to occasionally spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing logs

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the logs. Therefore, when installing floors in a wooden house, they should be protected from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

A preparation with a bioprotective composition protects wood from mold, rot, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such products will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Source centermira.ru

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
no allergens.

The preparations must be applied before the installation of the floor in a wooden house begins.

Leave-in antiseptic

Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time-consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After the work is completed, the color of the wood will become pistachio.

Traditional methods

Folk remedies for treating lags:

Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into wood structure and embalming this remedy perfectly protects the material.
Resin. Birch resin will help against beetles, fungi and rotting. Its only drawback is its vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons – the smell is too strong, sometimes it interferes for several months.

Source de.decorexpro.com

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Rough coating.
Thermal and waterproofing layers.
Finish floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finished floor from in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 steps mentioned above and start working on the finished floor.

Source lesdomik.ru

To make a finished floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is erected in 3 stages:

The logs are laid so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board needs to be secured closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a block so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. Using a self-tapping screw, each joist is fastened through a ridge.

Important! If you plan to change the floor in the future, you need to use a simple fastening option - all floorboards should be secured from above to the joists using self-tapping screws.

Source ms.decorexpro.com

Conclusion

It's obvious that flooring process– one of the most serious and key stages of repair work, which requires maximum concentration and diligence. Regardless of the choice of material, the floor will serve for a long time and effectively only if strictly observed construction technologies, rules and regulations.

Today we will talk about the construction of wooden floor structures on the first floor of a private house using the standard method.

Construction of the structure will take place in five main stages

installation of beams and joists;
arrangement of waterproofing system;
making a rough version of the floor;
execution of a final version of the floor;
flooring installation.

Most often, the entire structure is installed on a series of prepared support columns or beams (concrete or brick). The empty space that remains between the ground and the floor plane is called the underground. This space must be ideally ventilated, only in this case the wood will remain in optimal form for the maximum possible amount of time.

Important nuance. Before you start equipment for wooden floor structures on the ground, you should find out how close to the surface of the earth are groundwater. If they leak high enough, seriously moistening the soil, serious waterproofing of the entire system will be required. You will also have to arrange high-quality ventilation for the subfloor.

It should be remembered that floors are subject to constant mechanical stress; therefore, wooden flooring should be selected with special care.

In this case, the following points must be taken into account

The wood moisture level should be 12 percent. The durability of the material largely depends on this indicator;
material with cracks or chips is a bad option. In this case, the likelihood of repair work in the near future is very high;
the wooden floor covering should be treated with one of the types of reliable antiseptics to increase the level of fire resistance and prevent pathogenic phenomena (fungus, etc.);
The optimal solution would be to choose coniferous types of wood: fir, larch, pine, cedar. Among hardwoods, preference should be given to ash or oak.

The durability of wooden floors and the microclimate in the premises of the house depend not least on the condition of the underground - ideally it should be dry and well ventilated. In order to arrange effective system underground ventilation will need to make the required number of holes around the perimeter of the plinths. It is worth foreseeing the likelihood of a snowy winter and removing several ventilation pipes with visors. You can increase the level of air circulation using a window fan (or several). Do not forget about the possibility of small rodents entering the underground - it would not be superfluous to install cellular gratings (cell size up to 8 millimeters).

Most types of wood floors in private homes are laid on a prepared system of support beams laid at the base of the foundation. It happens that the building construction project did not provide for the presence of support beams - in this case, the installation of support columns (concrete or brick) will be required.

If the laying of beams took place along with the construction of the foundation, the required number of support columns will have to be made in a separate order.

It is important to correctly select points for installing supports. For this purpose, a mark must be made on each of the embedded beams, and then ropes must be pulled along the entire subfloor. Next we repeat the same procedure for the width. At the points where the ropes (cords) will intersect, the corners of the support posts should be located.

It is important to correctly determine the number of supports so that the interval between them ranges from 70 centimeters to one meter.

Remember, the greater the thickness of the joists or beams, the smaller the interval when installing supports. The size of each recess for the support post must correspond to the sides of the support. When installing supports, do not forget that the correct choice of its section will depend on the height of the column. The higher the support is from ground level, the more difficult it is to ensure its stability.

So, at the designated points we dig holes with a depth of 40 to 60 centimeters and lay the supports. In the case of brick pillars of small height (up to 25 centimeters), the installation can be done with one and a half bricks; in the case of high supports, we work with 2 bricks. In order to increase the reliability of the support system, you can pour a foundation under their bases. The bricks are secured by cement mortar and are waterproofed.

The option with concrete pillars is considered more reliable due to the use of reinforcement. The parameters of each side of the concrete column can vary from 40 to 50 centimeters, depending on the height of the support itself.

In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, it is important to ensure compliance with the horizon even at the stage of installing the supports. Therefore, we recommend regularly checking their flatness using a building level.

The next step is to remove the top layer of earth around the entire perimeter of the subfloor, level the surface, then alternately backfill the gravel and sand layers. Each of them must be watered and carefully compacted. Tamping can be done using a vibrating plate or a homemade improvised means.

So, three to four layers should be laid on top of the supports waterproofing material. Next, we begin installing beams or joists, securely fixing them in place. In principle, the joists can be laid directly on the supports, but if we want the floor to be really strong, we first need to lay the required number of beams. In the case where a joist or beam is shorter than necessary, you should lay the joint between them on a support, connect them together using a “lock” method and secure them using self-tapping screws.

In order to securely fix the logs and beams on the tops of the support pillars, we will need the appropriate number of metal corners. Fastening the corners to the supports is carried out using dowels, and for fastening to wooden surfaces It's better to use self-tapping screws.

Each beam and joist should be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you suddenly discover that the horizon for the support pillars is not ideal, it’s not a big deal. If necessary, a special gasket or wedge can be placed under any of the sagging beams.

About single layer wood floor

Among the main methods of arranging a wooden floor in country cottage, first of all, we will highlight single-layer and two-layer options. Varieties of single-layer floors are usually performed during construction and renovation country houses. Year-round use of such structures is possible only in conditions of sufficient warm regions. If you need floors that are warm all year round, it is better to choose the “double insulated” option.

So, to install a single-layer wooden floor, we will need to lay the joists on the support posts and fasten them. In order to make logs, we use the required number of wooden blocks measuring fifty by fifty millimeters. The next step is laying tongue and groove boards (thickness from 40 to 50 millimeters) and attaching them to the joists - for this we will use screws or nails.

Speaking of flooring for a single wooden floor, we recommend choosing linoleum or simple painting.

In some cases, in order to make the entire structure more durable, the beams are first laid on supports, and only then the lags come in turn. A few more words about the support beams. Perhaps the ideal material for manufacturing can be considered wooden beams, the thickness of which is 10 by 10 or 12 by 12 centimeters.

About the draft version of a two-layer floor

So, as mentioned above, if you plan to operate the cottage all year round, you will have to construct a two-layer and insulated floor structure. Of course, in this case you will spend significantly more effort, time and finances, but the level of return from such work will be completely different.

In this case, the sequence of our actions will be as follows

We install the logs on a system of support pillars; we fasten them using self-tapping screws and metal corners;
in each of the gaps, from joist to joist, a moisture-resistant plywood panel must be laid so that each of its edges lies on the protruding section of the support column;
all remaining free space must be filled with thermal insulation (clay with sawdust, glass wool, polystyrene foam, mineral wool);
It's time to lay the subfloor. As a material, it is best to take the required number of boards, the thickness of which can be 15-50 millimeters. It is very important to carry out correct processing boards to ensure they fit together as closely as possible. The lags and boards are fastened using self-tapping screws.

An important nuance: the edges of the plank floor must be at least 15 millimeters from each wall. This is necessary to ensure ventilation and prevent possible swelling of the floor due to seasonal swelling of the wood.

Next, we proceed to laying layers of heat and waterproofing. We cover the subfloors with polyethylene membranes (thickness - two hundred microns) and an additional layer of insulation (for example, polyethylene foam). Each membrane (film) must be overlapped; its edges must be glued using tape.

About laying the finished floor

To install finished flooring options, tongue and groove or parquet boards, as well as plywood panels, are best suited. The latter, as a rule, are laid on top of the insulation and secured with self-tapping screws diagonally and along the entire perimeter. Then the actual installation of the flooring begins.

About the option with tongue and groove boards

The undoubted advantage of this material is that tongue-and-groove floors look aesthetically pleasing even without additional floor coverings - you just need to carefully apply required quantity layers of varnish or paint.

We will lay the tongue-and-groove boards in the following sequence:

before the material goes into work, it must “rest” in the room for 2-3 days, thus “getting used” to the microclimate of a particular room;
it is necessary to make a distance of 15 millimeters from each wall in order to create a gap for ventilation and prevent swelling of the floor;
The finishing floor boards are laid perpendicular to the rough floor boards. We start by laying the first row, clearly maintaining the line - with the spikes towards the wall. We fix each board using self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in in such a way that the baseboard covers them close to the wall. From opposite sides, screwing the screws into the grooves should occur at an angle of 45 degrees. The gaps between the outer boards and the walls are closed with special wooden spacers.

In cases where the floorboards are shorter than the length of the room, they are usually laid staggered. This ensures an increase in the strength of the floor. The length of each screw should be several times the thickness of the boards. Holes for the entry of self-tapping screws should be prepared in advance, otherwise the board may be damaged (chip, crack, etc.).

We lay the next row of material (and each subsequent one) according to the principle of “tenons in the grooves of the boards of the previous row.” We compact the boards with a special rubber hammer, then fasten them into the grooves using self-tapping screws from the reverse sides.

About the option with parquet boards

The installation of finished floors from solid parquet boards remains one of the most popular and sought-after options in private homes.

Several features of the optimal implementation of this process of laying parquet boards

fastening massive parquet boards using self-tapping screws can only be done on those sides where the tenons are located;
the parquet board is laid out exclusively “staggered”;
in the version using a plywood base, it is recommended to first fix the boards “with glue”, and only then fasten them using self-tapping screws;
diagonal laying method parquet board give a chance visual magnification rooms.

Finally

Each of the wooden elements included in the floor structure must be treated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. This treatment will help increase the period of trouble-free use of the structure. The work on laying wooden floors in the house can be considered finally completed after applying the final floor coverings.

A wooden house is associated with comfort and warmth. Natural wood materials create a special atmosphere, they are safe for health. At the same time, wood requires special care and compliance with operating requirements. Construction of a floor in a wooden house also requires a special approach. Let's look at how you can do this correctly.

Floor requirements

A properly laid floor in a wooden house must satisfy such parameters as practicality and durability. It needs to be made warm and even. Its aesthetic appearance plays an important role. If we lay the floor with additional insulation, we must not forget that in this case it will be necessary to raise it.

To lay the floor with your own hands in accordance with these requirements, you need to determine the order of work and take into account all the individual features of the operation and design of the building.

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

Consideration of the properties of various floor structures;
Study of the installation process depending on the selected type;
Construction and installation of the selected type of structure.

The most common types of flooring in a wooden house are concrete, plywood or laid on joists. Using joists or concrete screed, you can raise the floor level. In the photo you can see how the floor looks using different materials.

Please note: Regardless of the type chosen, you can equip it with a heated floor system. This will be very useful when year-round accommodation in the house. Such designs also allow you to raise the floor level.

Features of concrete floor

Minimum time spent on work, compared to a full floor made of wood materials;
Cost reduction;
To build a concrete floor with your own hands, no special construction skills are required. It is enough to fill the screed in accordance with the level. The result is a leveled surface on which any floor covering can be laid.

The disadvantages include:

There is a noticeable load on the foundation, so preliminary calculations should be made to avoid problems in this area;
Small vibrations can cause cracks to appear in the concrete surface, which can lead to heat loss.

Features of wood construction

A wooden base, like any other, has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

safety for health, the tree does not emit any hazardous substances;
you can design any design structure;
if necessary, all work can be carried out with available tools and materials.

We must not forget that in order for the floor in a wooden house to last for many years, it must be laid in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. This will prevent the floor from sagging, because then you will either have to replace the floor or be puzzled by the question of how to raise it.

The disadvantages include:

complexity of installation;
high price;
duration of work;
difficulty in leveling the structure.

What is the construction of a wooden floor?

To correctly lay the floor with your own hands, you should take into account that its structure consists of a subfloor, a layer of thermal and waterproofing, a finished floor and a floor covering.

The design can be double-layered or single-layered. If we install the second method, then there may be no lag. Their presence or absence is determined by the thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams.

Sometimes it happens that a wooden structure shifts under the influence of various factors, which leads to deformation of the subfloor. When constructing a multilayer structure, the upper layers are kept stationary.

If there are support pillars, as well as in cases where beams are inserted into house walls, it is necessary to lay the logs in the correct order.

How to make flooring using logs?

You can lay a subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands using one of two options:

on the logs;
using floor beams.

Logs allow you to raise the floor level, so it is not always rational to use them in rooms with a low ceiling. They are attached either on top of the foundation or to the walls of the log house. Before placing the material, the logs should be brought into the room in order to acclimatize them, where they should remain for several days.
Stelem as follows:

We place two of them along opposite walls and connect them using nylon threads; they should be placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. These threads will be used as guides to which the remaining joists will be attached. The space between the joists is filled with a layer of insulation;
When thick boards of 30 or 40 cm are used, you can make the distance between the lags up to 0.8 m. When the boards are less than 30 cm thick, the distance between the lags needs to be reduced to 0.5-0.6 m. When the boards are thicker than 40 cm, the distance can reach 1 m;
Using wedges made of chipboard or fiberboard, you can level the floor surface by adjusting the height of the logs. Such wedges are secured with self-tapping screws or long nails;
When it is intended to fasten the logs on top of a concrete base, the fastening can be done with dowels or anchors. In no case should we forget about treating lags with an antiseptic composition;
The next step is to lay and strengthen the boards. The first row is fastened with a 1.5-centimeter distance from the walls. Pre-drilling of holes for self-tapping screws is required;
Lay the boards on each of the joists and then secure them. The gaps that remain between the walls and the floor made of boards are closed with baseboards. You can also use staples; they are connected to the boards and secured with nails. In the video you can see how this process is carried out.

If fiberboard or chipboard is chosen as the base for the floor

By using this method You can also raise the floor with your own hands in a wooden house. In order to lay the subfloor, you can choose plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. This material is characterized by reliability, strength, and does not lend itself to deformation. In addition, if necessary, materials such as fiberboard or chipboard can be easily dismantled and replaced.

The layout of the sheets must be previously thought out and marked. Then, in accordance with the markings, lay the lags. In the photo you can see an example of such a scheme.

To lay the floor flat, you can use beacons. To do this, you need to install them on the entire floor surface. For these purposes, the entire area of the room is divided into squares of 30-40 cm, into the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed. To install beacons you will need a level. After this, you can lay the logs on which it is subsequently planned chipboard flooring or fiberboard.

The thickness of the chipboard or fiberboard sheets determines the distance between the logs. In general, it is no more than 40 cm. When boards are installed across the beams, they should be fastened at a distance of half a meter from each other.

To prevent sagging logs, you can also make substrates from pieces of chipboard or fiberboard, which must first be lubricated with parquet glue. Impregnating the entire floor surface with glue will prevent cracking. Between the logs and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood we make a layer of moisture-proof material.

It is desirable that all edges of the sheets used fall on the logs, and the sheets of chipboard (fibreboard) themselves are laid at a distance of a couple of millimeters from each other, this is necessary in case of deformation of the material. The joints must be sanded to level the surface. In the video you can see how to lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, fiberboard or other material).

Making a finished floor

It is best to lay the finished floor with your own hands using tongue and groove boards (pictured below). They imply a convenient connection with each other. When one board is attached to the previous one using a special lock.

You can adjust the boards to each other using a mallet by tapping them. You can fasten the board to the joists with long nails, which should be driven in at a slight angle, recessing the nail head into the board.

The finished floor, made of tongue and groove boards, must be sanded and coated with varnish or paint.

The arrangement of the finished floor with tongue and groove boards is suitable for both double and single construction. The double will certainly be much warmer. She should be given preference when living year-round in a wooden house. A diagram of this design can be seen in the photo.

How to lower the floor?

Owners of old houses often have to deal with the problem low ceilings. To increase the space with your own hands, it is best to raise the ceiling. If this is not possible, the floor surface can be lowered.

Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most widespread throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment with just one person.

General principles of wood flooring

Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on a concrete or even earthen base, or on supports - usually brick, wood or metal poles. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to cover wide spans - logs of a very large cross-section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the instrument

The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:

laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
a regular or cross construction bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
jointer and/or grinder.

The usual carpenter's tools - a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller - will also not be superfluous.

Floor installation on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):

the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
rough (“bottom”) floor;
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
finishing floor covering.

This entire multi-layer “sandwich” is usually supported by supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase required quantity bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of which exceeds the cross-sectional area of the columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which it is poured concrete mixture. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE OF THE JOINT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads embedded in 10-20 cm depth are used as such fasteners or anchor bolts– subsequently, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and tightened with nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.

The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.

After complete drying and hardening masonry mortar(this takes about a week) you can now lay logs on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick columns

The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor structure. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a “floating” floor option, the length of the joists is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must be on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!

Alignment of logs

After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using wooden spacers small thickness the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Subfloor

After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing a floor on brick pillars in an underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. A mandatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings must be located around the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be possible to block the vents in winter time. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to lay floors correctly

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) will be required; if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!

Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws in this case do not fit, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the joist. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After laying the floorboards, the floor is ready for finishing, consisting in its grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty, made on the basis of drying oil. Last operation Before painting, fasten the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or surface of the material. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; paint roller and a good respirator. If you want to get not glossy, but matte surface You can use wax or oil on the floor.