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Jigsaw, casing of window and door openings

What is a socket or casing? Why is it being done?

Over time, wooden houses experience significant shrinkage due to the fact that the wood dries out. Wood twists and bends, which can cause warping and damage to windows and doors. To prevent shrinkage of the house from leading to deformation of window structures and doors, you need to make a frame or casing.

The cap protects the openings from pressure from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage. The side parts of the pigtail have poses that create vertical sliding. Most often, the pigtail is made from coniferous wood. It consists of a top, sides and a window sill (threshold).

Important! The casing must be installed before caulking works.

Types of casing (casing)

U-shaped pigtail (in a deck)

Classic pigtail. To perform this, a tenon is cut out at the end of the wall, a vertical part of the casing with a groove is installed on it, along which the frame moves vertically due to shrinkage. Thanks to this, no pressure is placed on the door and window structure, which guarantees their correct functioning and durability. The casing is treated with an antiseptic, and soft insulation is placed between the tenon and groove. A wind lock provides protection against blowing under the window sill. The gaps above the top of the pigtail are closed with soft insulating material.

T-shaped socket (in a spike)

The T-shaped frame is made as follows: a groove is cut at the end of the opening, and the side parts of the casing have T-shaped profiles. Bars are glued into the grooves on the risers of the frame, which act as stiffeners; they guarantee the stability of the shape of the casing and uniform shrinkage of the walls.

When installing a T-type pigtail, strict adherence to technology is required. For example, if you secure a block with nails or self-tapping screws, there is a possibility of freezing or blowing through the window and door opening. An important role in casing is played by antiseptic treatment and insulation of seams with compressible material.

A U- or T-shaped pigtail is selected depending on the house. When visiting the site, the surveyor will tell you the most suitable type of casing. Our craftsmen professionally perform the full range of work on the manufacture and installation of casing in wooden houses.

Stages of installing a casing (casing)

1. Opening cutout is done at a distance of 80-90 cm from the floor; when determining this distance, the person’s height is taken into account. Between the opening and the window or door structure, you need to make a shrinkage gap of 35-60 mm.

2. Preparing the opening. Using a chainsaw, depending on the type of socket, a groove or ridge is cut in the opening.

3. Processing and insulation. After installing the frame, its surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, and insulation is placed in the gaps. When installing the frame, you cannot use foam, since the window structure must move freely vertically.

4. Installation of wooden elements. At the end, the installation of wooden elements is carried out, namely the window sill, sidewalls and top.

Prices for casing, pigtail

We install casing boxes using high-quality materials. Carrying out work on the installation of casing boxes, the Department guarantees quality that meets European standards.

LIST AND TYPES OF WORK FOR INSTALLATION OF CASING BOXES

Cost of work with material (rub.)

Cost of work, including customer’s materials (RUB)

INSTALLATION OF RAW CASING BOXES ACCORDING TO TECHNOLOGIES

In the embedded block

In the thorn-monolith

In the embedded block

To the deck (complex configuration, trapezoid)

In the thorn-monolith (complex configuration, trapezoid)

INSTALLATION OF FINISHING CASING BOXES ACCORDING TO TECHNOLOGIES

In a tenon with a finished slope (class “A”) (complex configuration, trapezoid)

In a tenon with a ready-made slope ("Extra" class) (complex configuration, trapezoid)

INSTALLATION OF CABINETS

Installation of external/internal trims (complex configuration, trapezoid)

ADDITIONAL WORK

Window sill installation

Using an electric generator

Assembly of tours (customer's material)

Removal of old casing and glazing

What affects the price of casing?

1. Wall thickness: wooden houses are built from logs and timber, so the wall thickness can be from 140 to 300 mm. The dimensions of the parts of the frame correspond in width to the walls of the house, or slightly exceed it. You also need to consider the width of the window sill.

2. Opening size: The larger the opening, the more material will be required to make the frame and the time it will take to work. The shape of the opening also affects the price of the casing: a standard rectangular design or a complex polygonal one.

3. Quality of a wooden house: if the walls are assembled without connecting elements, the curvature of the walls occurs in the cut out openings. Then you have to additionally straighten the walls, which leads to additional costs. Houses made of timber are assembled using nails that meet at 300 mm. Because of this, additional money and time are required to sharpen chainsaw chains or purchase new ones.

Photos of our projects. Casing (frame) of door and window openings

In the first year after construction, a wooden house can shrink up to 5% of its height due to the drying of the logs. During drying, under the influence of seasonal weather changes, it is possible that the logs will twist and bend, especially in cut openings, which will inevitably lead to disruption of the normal operation of the fittings and even damage to the integrity of the frames of windows and doors. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to install the casing (plug).


The casing is a wooden box that is mounted in a window or doorway and prevents the horizontal movement of logs, but does not create obstacles to the free movement of vertical crowns.

The casing is made from dry wood with a moisture content of 10-12%.

Our company produces casing using the “embedded block” technology. The essence of the technology is that along the right and left ends of the opening, in the middle, a recess is cut from top to bottom, into which a block with insulation is inserted, measuring 50mm x 50mm. An edged board (sidewall) with a width equal to the width of the log (timber) and a thickness of approximately 45 mm is installed on the resulting plane and attached to the timber with self-tapping screws or nails - the main thing is that the self-tapping screw or nail does not go through the timber and does not enter the end of the log (timber). The upper horizontal edged board (top) is installed in the opening without fastening to the wall with a gap of 50-100 mm, which is filled with insulation - jute, flax or mineral wool.

The casing can be closed or open. An open casing without a lower horizontal board, only on the sides and top. A closed casing with a bottom board that is attached to the bottom of the opening.

Rough and finishing casing

Our company manufactures and installs ROUGH and FINISH casing. The difference between them is that when installing the finishing casing, subsequent installation of slopes is not required - since the slopes are already present in the finishing casing. There is also a quarter in the finishing casing. The presence of a quarter in the finishing casing reduces the risk of blowing, and also during installation, the window is leaning against the quarter - which leads to the reliability of the installation of the window structure.

Finish casing, like rough casing, can be closed or open.

Unlike private craftsmen and some companies that manufacture and install casings, our company approaches the production of even rough casing very carefully. What is this?! To ensure rigidity of the connection, we use a tenon-eye corner connection in the rough casing, which is additionally secured with self-tapping screws. Also, all casing elements are polished and impregnated with fire and bioprotection.

We can also offer the customer, as an effective addition to the rough casing, an additional block around the perimeter of the opening from the outside, which will create a false quarter of the opening.

Prices*

ROUGH CASING
Width (mm.) Cost, rub. (m.p.) Installation, rub. Total
150 750 600 1350
200 850 600 1450
250 1 000 600 1600
300 1 150 600 1750
FINISHING CASING
200 1 700 1500 3200
250 2 100 1500 3600
300 2 600 1500 4100
ADDITIONAL WORK
Services list Unit Cost, rub.
Vertical cut in a log house mp 400
Horizontal cut in a log house mp 500
Selection of flats in a log 1 side 1 crown 400
Bald coloring 1 side 1 crown 100
Antiseptic treatment of bald areas 1 side 1 crown 50
*: Prices are approximate and are not a public offer. Please check with your consultant for exact prices. Many of our clients want to buy casing for self-installation, or installation by a contractor construction company. It is no secret that buying casing in Moscow is not so easy; in most cases, organizations offering casing installation produce it only after preliminary measurements at the customer’s site and, as a rule, imposing their installation. However, not everyone is ready to shell out a tidy sum for installing the frame and want to buy ready-made casing themselves, trying to reduce the cost and reduce the overall costs of glazing and building a house.


Buy ready-made casing

To purchase ready-made casing, you need to know the dimensions of window and door openings, as well as the thickness of the wall. Casing, casing, casing is a structure consisting of 4 components:
  • Upper part - “Vershnik”
  • Bottom part - “Pillow” (window sill)
  • Two vertical supports - racks “Riser”
We supply all casing elements, which are molded products, in connection with this you can buy ready-made casing elements of any size, knowing which, you can order and buy ready-made casing yourself, and having basic carpentry, joinery or construction skills, you can also assemble and install the casing yourself or seek help from us and our company. Specialists of Rusobsada LLC provide a full range of casing installation services, including cutting out openings, treating with an antiseptic, assembling the casing with making locks in the casing box and installing the casing in the prepared opening.


Buy window casing

It is very simple to buy casing from Rusobsada LLC, for this you need to make basic measurements of windows or openings for windows and doors in which casing is planned to be installed, and based on these dimensions you can independently buy casing for windows on our website.

Options for T-shaped casing and U-shaped casing made of laminated laminated material are available for order, differentiated by the thickness of the casing board: The thickness and casing option should be chosen based on the characteristics of your house, the building material (log or timber), the height and number of storeys of the house, as well as the width and height of window openings.
The quarter in the casing is made depending on the thickness of the window profile, which will subsequently be installed in the casing.

Standard sizes of PVC window profiles:

  • 58 mm - Wintech Darrio
  • 60 mm -
  • 70 mm -
  • 86 mm - REHAU Intelio, REHAU Geneo
To order casing, the following dimensions are taken into account:

A- Casing thickness
B- Casing width
C- Quarter size for window installation
D- Size of the Groove in the casing, for the U-shaped casing option, or the Tenon in the case of the T-shaped casing

If the thickness and width have standard dimensions, then the quarter for window installation is selected “to order”, because it is made to a specific width of the window profile. When ordering a casing box with a quarter, you should immediately indicate the required size. The same applies to the size of the tenon or groove in the casing posts.
We produce U-shaped casing with groove sizes: W x H - 50x50 mm, W x H - 50x40mm or 40x40 mm
T-shaped casing is manufactured with a tenon size: W x H - 50x50 or 40x40 mm
In any case, the dimensions of the tenon or groove can be made in different sizes at the request of the customer.

Hello!

Based on my own practice, I can confidently say that there are specifics for installing windows in private wooden buildings. Therefore, it took me a long time to select a team of installers so that they were truly jacks of all trades.

Today I would like to talk about an important element of finishing a window opening, without which they cannot install plastic structures in any wooden house. This is a pigtail.

It is this that will guarantee that the plastic window does not deform when the structure shrinks, the fittings will continue to work perfectly, the fit of the sashes will be tight, and their opening will be easy and comfortable. But this is not all the advantages of a well-executed joint. So let’s get to know her better.

What is a pigtail?

Houses and bathhouses made of logs and timber do not lose their demand, despite the emergence of new construction technologies and materials. This is not surprising, since such buildings have a lot of advantages: from 100% environmental friendliness to excellent appearance.

However, wooden buildings also have their own characteristics. One of the most important is shrinkage, as a result of which the crowns move to the side and a noticeable decrease in the height of the walls occurs. It occurs due to seasonal growth and loss of moisture from wood.

Overwintering the assembled log house for several seasons without interior decoration helps to slightly reduce the effect of shrinkage, but it is impossible to completely eliminate this phenomenon.

The most vulnerable elements of a house during shrinkage are window and door openings. Shifting logs can deform them, causing them to not only stop opening, but even collapse altogether. Therefore, in order to keep windows and doors safe and sound, a special wooden box is inserted into the openings - a frame or, as it is also called, a casing.

It consists of a threshold (door) or window sill board (window), a top and a side. The width of all elements usually does not exceed 24–25 cm. Of course, wider boards can be used, but this may lead to cracks along the entire length of the box during its operation.

For casing, wood with a moisture content of about 10–12% should be used. Drier material may have internal cracks that are invisible to the eye, and this can lead to the destruction of the socket during the shrinkage process.

There are three types of casing:

  1. Mortgage block. The cheapest option of all. The box is made from ordinary edged boards 30–50 mm thick. A groove is cut into the inside of the opening for a square beam, to which the finishing board is attached. This design is also distinguished by its simplicity and high speed of assembly, but has one drawback - the need for additional finishing of the slopes after installing the window frame.
  2. Thorn socket. Typically used in the construction of houses made of profiled timber. It is made from a solid rectangular block in the shape of the letter “T”. The vertical “leg” of this letter is inserted into the groove of the “crossbar”, which simultaneously serves as a window slope.
  3. Casing “in the block”. The most expensive version of the pigtail design. A tenon is cut into the sides of the opening, onto which a specially cut “P”-shaped deck is placed.

You need to know this! Using regular timber or edged boards to strengthen the openings instead of the structures listed above will lead to a waste of time and money, since sooner or later such amateur activities will lead to serious deformation.

The casing or frame is an integral element of wooden architecture. It has been used in the construction of wooden houses and log baths since ancient times. Failure to use the window frame will not only lead to disruption of the functioning of windows and doors, but also to the appearance of cracks and gaps between logs and frames, and therefore to serious heat losses during the heating season.

The casing prevents the side logs or beams from moving horizontally and leaves a gap for their vertical movement, which protects the glass from cracking. Its presence is especially important if there is a very small partition between adjacent windows. In addition, a pigtail made according to all the rules will also decorate a wooden house.

A window frame of plastic windows

Plastic windows also require the installation of a frame, but this case has its own characteristics. It is necessary to prepare an opening in advance, which should be at least 14 cm wider than the window frame. When calculating the size of the gap, you need to take into account the thickness of the seams and casing boards, as well as the shrinkage coefficient of the wooden house.

Helpful advice!

It is better to order plastic windows after preparing the opening and installing the frame. This will help avoid possible size mismatches.

Next, a ridge is cut out at the end of the opening, which will act as a base for a carriage with a groove. During the shrinking process, the beams or logs will move along this groove inside it, which will relieve the window from unnecessary load. To make a carriage, a beam with a cross-section of 150×100 mm with a groove in the middle, the width of which should be 5 cm wider than the window, is suitable. It is best to cut out the ridge using a chainsaw - this will help achieve better accuracy.

For the top, you can use a 150x40 mm edged board, in which grooves for the ridge are cut on each side. After installing the carriages on the sides of the opening, the top is secured with self-tapping screws. After assembling the casing, all gaps are caulked and sealed with jute tape.

A window frame in a wooden house is needed not only where the doors will be installed directly, but also in decorative openings, since internal logs or beams are also subject to temperature fluctuations.

The design of the door frame is essentially no different from the window frame. The top is usually installed a couple of centimeters above the top log. Vertical sliding of logs is ensured by sidewalls, which, unlike window ones, do not need to be insulated. Naturally, this does not apply to the front door.

Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail

Required tool:

  1. Jigsaw.
  2. Circular.
  3. Chainsaw.
  4. Electric drill with screwdriver mode.
  5. Sander.
  6. Building level.
  7. Roulette.
  8. A simple pencil or marker.

Note!

When installing the frame yourself, you do not need to use foam to seal all joints and gaps. The foam rigidly fastens the logs to the casing elements, which prevents them from settling unhindered and negates the whole point of installing the frame.

Sequence of actions for self-installation of casing “into a tenon”:

  1. Level the opening using a chainsaw.
  2. Draw vertical lines in the middle of both ends, measure 3 cm from it on each side.
  3. Using the markings, cut niches for the tenon using a chainsaw.
  4. Treat the opening with any antiseptic composition.
  5. Using a circular saw or miter saw, make a “T” shaped beam of the appropriate size.
  6. Treat the side casing elements with an antiseptic and secure them with self-tapping screws.
  7. Insert the top jumper, leaving a gap of 5 cm for inserting insulation and ensuring free movement during vertical shrinkage.
  8. Insert window sill board.
  9. Caulk all joints and cover the sides with special “breathable” tape.

Installation of casing for doors is carried out according to the same principle, just the dimensions of the parts will be slightly larger.

To summarize, we can highlight the following points:

  1. Installation of a window frame in a wooden house is required, regardless of whether the windows are wooden or metal-plastic.
  2. You can install the frame yourself, since the process itself is quite simple and does not require deep knowledge of wooden architecture; it is enough to follow a number of simple recommendations.
  3. The casing should be installed before caulking work.

Pit or casing - why is it needed?

Over time, wooden houses experience significant shrinkage due to the fact that the wood dries out. Wood twists and bends, which can cause warping and damage to windows and doors. To prevent shrinkage of the house from leading to deformation of window structures and doors, you need to make a frame or casing.

The cap protects the openings from pressure from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage. The side parts of the pigtail have poses that create vertical sliding. Most often, the pigtail is made from coniferous wood. It consists of a top, sides and a window sill (threshold).

Types of casing (casing)

U-shaped pigtail (in a deck)

Classic pigtail. To perform this, a tenon is cut out at the end of the wall, a vertical part of the casing with a groove is installed on it, along which the frame moves vertically due to shrinkage.

Thanks to this, no pressure is placed on the door and window structure, which guarantees their correct functioning and durability.

The casing is treated with an antiseptic, and soft insulation is placed between the tenon and groove. A wind lock provides protection against blowing under the window sill. The gaps above the top of the pigtail are closed with soft insulating material.

T-type pigtail (spike)

The T-shaped frame is made as follows: a groove is cut at the end of the opening, and the side parts of the casing have T-shaped profiles.

Bars are glued into the grooves on the risers of the frame, which act as stiffeners; they guarantee the stability of the shape of the casing and uniform shrinkage of the walls.

When installing a T-type pigtail, strict adherence to technology is required. For example, if you secure a block with nails or self-tapping screws, there is a possibility of freezing or blowing through the window and door opening. An important role in casing is played by antiseptic treatment and insulation of seams with compressible material.

A U- or T-shaped pigtail is selected depending on the house. When visiting the site, the surveyor will tell you the most suitable type of casing. Our craftsmen professionally perform the full range of work on the manufacture and installation of casing in wooden houses.

Stages of installing a casing (casing)

  1. The cutout of the opening is made at a distance of 80-90 cm from the floor; when determining this distance, the person’s height is taken into account. Between the opening and the window or door structure, you need to make a shrinkage gap of 35-60 mm.
  2. Preparing the opening. Using a chainsaw, depending on the type of socket, a groove or ridge is cut in the opening.
  3. Processing and insulation. After installing the frame, its surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, and insulation is placed in the gaps. When installing the frame, you cannot use foam, since the window structure must move freely vertically.
  4. Installation of wooden elements. At the end, the installation of wooden elements is carried out, namely the window sill, sidewalls and top.

  • Wall thickness: wooden houses are built from logs and timber, so the wall thickness can be from 140 to 300 mm. The dimensions of the parts of the frame correspond in width to the walls of the house, or slightly exceed it. You also need to consider the width of the window sill.
  • Opening size: the larger the opening, the more material will be required to make the frame and the time to work. The shape of the opening also affects the price of the casing: a standard rectangular design or a complex polygonal one.
  • Quality of a wooden house: if the walls are assembled without connecting elements, the curvature of the walls occurs in the cut out openings. Then you have to additionally straighten the walls, which leads to additional costs. Houses made of timber are assembled using nails that meet at 300 mm. Because of this, additional money and time are required to sharpen chainsaw chains or purchase new ones.

source: www.sotdel.ru

Features of installing a pigtail in a wooden house

The width of the casing components can be up to 26 cm. However, it can be larger, but in this case, this may lead to the appearance of cracks along the entire length of the structure. Typically, window frames are made from wood with a moisture content of 10 to 12 percent.

Note!

If the moisture content of the wood is less, internal cracks are possible. Extreme care is required when making door frames (casing), especially metal ones.

There are two varieties. Simple, which is notable for the presence of pre-cut grooves in the opening logs - for the ideal fit of one side of the casing. This type is used exclusively when installing simple wooden windows.

It is no longer possible to secure a plastic profile in this way; there is another type of casing for plastic windows. Its essence is this: a ridge is cut out at the ends of the logs, and then a carriage with a groove is put on it. When shrinking, the ridge will fit into the groove of the carriage without any problems, and the window itself will not be damaged in any way.

Timber house window

For each of the openings of a timber house it is made separately. Just like in a structure made of logs, installation is done without screws, nails, or other foreign elements. But for maximum sealing of the room, it is necessary to lay insulation between the log and the frame.

Over the centuries, Rus' has developed casing manufacturing technology that guarantees both high sound and heat insulation properties of doors and windows, as well as long service life of openings. When it is made correctly, it will last up to a hundred years.

Even when the log house has shrunk after two years of inactivity, even then it is impossible to do without casing. Because, while guaranteeing the preservation of the original shape of the opening, it makes the wall itself significantly more stable. But, in addition to this, it can be given the function of external decoration of a building as an important element of it.

Currently, a whole casing manufacturing industry has been established, so choosing the shape and color of the casing that matches the exterior of the building will not be difficult.

Rates, cost


Manufacturing costs can vary greatly: prices and costs depend on many factors; in every wooden building, the part is not just necessary, but simply irreplaceable!

What determine the prices and cost of casing:

  • on the quality of wood
  • casing type
  • casing forms
  • presence of decorative elements
  • opening dimensions
  • where the part will be installed - in a timber, log or log house

And, of course, the final price of the order is affected by quantitative indicators: how many pieces or how many meters.

The window frame is made of dry material with a humidity of 8-12%. It consists of a top, risers, an adhesive window sill or a window sill board in cases of installing a plastic window sill.

More information about the options for installing windows in wooden houses can be found on this page.

Types of jobs

Array: All parts are made by processing solid wood while maintaining the correct wood texture.

Adhesive: The details of such casing are made from glued boards. It is glued into a microspike on all four sides. Knots and resin pockets in this case are completely cut out.

Combined- This is the most common type of casing. The top and risers are made of solid pine. And the window sill is made of glued boards. All of it has a clean appearance and after installation needs to be treated with paint and varnish.

Window frames are made to fit each window or door individually. When placing an order, the customer must know which windows and doors will be installed in the future casing. It can be made as a sample for a window - this option is used in cases where the house will not have exterior or interior decoration; the walls of timber or rounded logs remain intact.

The pigtail can be either a standard shape - a rectangle, or non-standard shapes. Trapezes, polygons, balcony blocks. Non-standard forms have their disadvantages, but there are ways to avoid them. Such information is discussed with the surveyor at the site.

The technology for installing a plastic PVC window in a wooden house differs from the traditional one. Compared to brick or concrete, wooden houses are significantly susceptible to shrinkage. Therefore, the installation of a plastic window differs in the preparation of the opening, and even in the sequence of operations.

Features of shrinkage of a wooden house

All houses settle, putting pressure on the ground - stone ones more, wooden ones less. The correct selection of the type of foundation, taking into account the characteristics of the soil (including its heterogeneity, the depth of groundwater, the nature of the perched water, etc.) allows us to minimize the influence of settlement on the geometry of the structure.

House shrinkage is a consequence of changes in the dimensions of the building materials themselves.

It manifests itself especially strongly in the first years of operation of wooden houses built from logs or timber with natural moisture. Therefore, installation of windows in a new house is carried out when it has passed the “active phase” of shrinkage, and this is from 6 months to a year (depending on the type of wood, region and cutting season, type of material, etc.). But even then the shrinkage continues, but much less.

Minimum shrinkage for laminated veneer lumber, slightly more for kiln-dried timber. In new houses made from such materials, windows can be installed immediately after the walls are erected and the roof is installed.

But in any case, when installing windows, these features of wooden houses must be taken into account.

The role of the pigtail in a wooden house

The peculiarity of wood is that it reacts unevenly to changes in its own humidity. The longitudinal dimensions (relative to the location of the fibers) remain almost unchanged. A change in its own humidity affects the transverse dimensions - its natural decrease leads to drying out.

Therefore, when a wooden house shrinks, the height of the wall and the vertical size of the window opening decrease.

The only difference is in the order - first they install the window sill, and then attach the frame.

Important! When installing a window, you must ensure that the side fastening of the window profile to the casing is not through.

When foaming a window, the installation seam is protected from the penetration of water vapor from the opening and room side with a vapor-proof film, and from the street side - with a moisture-resistant, vapor-permeable membrane (the so-called warm installation).

Finishing the window with platbands protects the seam from the influence of climatic factors and the destructive effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (plus a decorative function).

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