Inserting double-glazed windows in a wooden house. We install plastic windows in a wooden house with our own hands

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose its geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of rising energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so installing a plastic window in wooden house DIY is of interest to many people. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Selecting plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is suitable specifically for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you do not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure circumstances.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and three-chamber (right) double-glazed windows

The production of double-glazed windows involves not only different technologies manufacturing, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance characteristics. Below you will see what they are:

Regular option with float glass. This glass has high light transparency and is free from any disadvantages.
Multifunctional double-glazed windows. There is protection from ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sun rays), has low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they keep out the cold in winter and heat in summer.
Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sun rays), destroys the dirt that will be washed away by the first rain. No streaks or stains remain.
Soundproofing options. IN in this case They use thicker glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration as such is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railway stations and airfields.
Reflective double-glazed windows. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. These options are ideal for hot weather. climatic conditions– they do not allow heat to pass through, they do not heat up themselves, but at the same time they allow photons (light) to pass through without hindrance.
Colored double glazed windows. Such glass softens bright light and does not transmit heat well, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (light and heat retention) change with shades.
Tinted double glazed windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
Energy saving options with k-glass. This is ordinary float glass, onto which, during its manufacturing process (in a hot state), a k-coating (thin metal film) is applied using the pyrolysis method. This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
Energy saving options with i-glass. It has the reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But i-coating is thin layer silver and glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
Designs made from smart glass. These are like “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet with a transparent polymer in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but increases fire resistance and mechanical strength(this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on to the polymer.

Note. Also, double-glazed windows are distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber ones.

Video: The glass unit formula determines the choice

Metal-plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of PVC profiles for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

Number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5 chamber PVC profiles are produced. Moreover, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third – 70 mm.
The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:

A – 3 mm ±0.2 mm;
B – 2.7 mm ±0.2 mm;
C – 2.5 mm ±0.2 mm.

Reinforcing or guide profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross-section - it must be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially one of smaller thickness, indicates low quality.
Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a warranty from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if you lubricate the inserts with special silicone at least once a year, the service life will double.
A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit an odor, but this depends on its composition:

TiO2 – titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
Chalk - its permissible level in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. This causes the plastic to burn out, turn yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.

The manufacturer largely determines quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the European Union countries and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied 30-50 cm from the end side. The date of manufacture and country of origin are displayed there. If such marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them as you read.

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in use. But this only applies to old houses, where there are already window openings with jambs and they meet your needs - in a new building this point is not relevant.

First of all, you should remove all the glass - to do this, remove the glazing bead and all the nails that did not come out when eliminating this profile. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the place where the beads are installed, lightly pressing against the glass. If there is any fastening material left there, then the blade will definitely trip over it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technique.

In some cases, in order to seal the windows as much as possible and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife in order to tear it away from the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can fly apart and hurt you. To avoid this, glue wet newspaper onto the glass and break it - all the fragments will fall nearby and will not fly apart.

The frame is supported by nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After this, use a nail puller to pick up part of the cut vertical and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the cross sections with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

This is how a groove is made for the casing tenon in the embedded block

First of all, you should cut out the window openings and there are two options. If plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their size, but this is the exception rather than the rule. Usually, the window (door) openings are cut out first and only after that the window dimensions are taken or a representative of the company where the windows will be made is invited (this is a free service).

Casing into the embedded block (left) and into the deck (right)

First, let's look at the features of installing a casing (plug). Casing into a deck clearly involves cutting a tenon along the verticals of the opening, and making a groove in the box for this tenon, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on the pigtail with the embedded bar - it is more popular.

There are more options with an embedded block. A groove is cut in the opening according to the size of the block (usually 50x50 mm) and the block is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top for shrinkage of the house. But sometimes they make a so-called monolith spike, this is when the spike is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, the logs or beams, when the wall shrinks, will simply slide along the tenon without deforming window frame.

A jute or felt tape is nailed to both sides of the inserted block with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a rough box to the block, which is most often assembled from a 50x100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws 75 mm long - they are guaranteed not to pass through the block and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if at the bottom it is placed between vertical boards, then they are placed on top of them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, will leave 3 cm of free space after installation. It is best to fasten the boards of the rough box together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands, so below you can watch a video about how a window frame is made.

Important! Usage polyurethane foam In this case it is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box with the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the block during shrinkage.

Video: Window or casing of an opening - protection against building shrinkage

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the rough frame (casing), you can begin installing the window sill - this is the first step for assembling a window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill is not adjacent to the transverse profile from the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength, you should make a 5-8 mm cut on the sides of the box and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level use plastic plates, as stands (mention them when ordering the window if you are installing it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with press washer

The window sill element must be attached to the bottom window opening self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always covered protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and contamination. To prevent the shutters from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and place them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fastening screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The caps must be recessed into the plastic, so a 10 mm drill is used to make a countersunk to the depth of the metal profile. You need three holes on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, with a distance of 50-60 mm from the corner.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the window sill, but at the top and on the sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame straight, use wooden spacers(they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the function of opening and closing the doors, so that there is no distortion.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere and there is a tight connection), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the seating groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now all that remains is to blow out the gap between the frame and the rough frame with mounting foam, and you can open the sash the very next day (a precaution against warping the profile). All that remains is to make slopes inside and outside, as well as install platbands, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, installing a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the construction and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But attentiveness is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print out the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work for use as needed.

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and practical solution, which favorably influences the indoor microclimate.

Fundamental in the presented case is that when it shrinks window system and the walls behave monotonously. Their installation according to technology plays a decisive role here.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber building has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while shrinkage does not exceed 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of crown gaps in the walls or cracking of the glass unit, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

In houses from chopped wood, rounded logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install the window support after the house has settled (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
Installing windows after the construction of a log house is not rational due to the lack of the ability to calculate wall shrinkage. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
In houses made of laminated veneer lumber, installation of windows is allowed immediately after erection of walls and installation of the roof of the house.
Installation of windows must be carried out exclusively through sliding connections - support beams and casing. Tying window blocks and frame structures to logs or beams is strictly prohibited. Tight fastening during drying leads to a violation of the integrity of window modules and the walls of the building. In fact, the window system must balance separately in relation to the wall.
In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide a shrinkage reserve - gaps of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare spaces can lead to poor closing of windows or roof gaps in walls.

Wooden window installation diagram

Preparing the window opening

Before installing the box, you should prepare the window opening. The opening must be rectangular in shape without cracks, recesses, distortions or other defects. Construction debris, dirt, dust and deposits must be removed from all surfaces.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, it is necessary to take accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening.

In cases where the skew of the opening is significant and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the window parameters in such a way that the highest level of the external opening exceeds the width by 2.5-4 cm and the height by 1-2 cm.

Extension can be achieved by installing an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in areas of maximum distortion.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the distortion, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

Casing

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is reliable fastening windows and maintaining the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called casing or jamb.

There are several types of this design:

One piece. It is made from specially processed solid material.
Glue. The individual components are made from type-setting boards, connected by means of microgrooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
Mixed. Part of the casing is made solid, and the other is made using glue. Upon completion of installation, the pigtail is varnished. This type is suitable for using large window sills.

The window frame is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if it is planned internal lining, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, sampling is not performed.

Assembly of the casing can begin after preparing the window opening.

Its production is carried out as follows:

Grooves are machined in the base, which is adjacent to the window opening. A beam of the same size is inserted into them, acting as the side of the casing.
First, place the beam at the bottom of the opening, which will prevent displacement of the side elements.
A compactor is placed under the timber from linen tow.
Sealing material is placed in the recesses and install side boards.
The final stage is fastening the top board of the structure.
A space is left on top of the jamb for the wood to dry out and filled with sealant. This way, during the process of shrinking the logs, the load on the window opening will not be affected.

Window installation

Window installation is carried out in the following sequence:

A waterproofing layer is placed on the lower part of the opening. and sealing material.
Install the window frame and fix it it with the help of linings or wedges made of wood.
Using a building level or plumb line, adjust the horizontal and vertical lines. In this case, you need to pay attention to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
On each side of the opening, in increments of 50 cm, drill holes.
Using self-tapping screws fix the box.
Insulate the space between the frame and the wall sealing material.
Next, the frame is mounted. It is installed in the grooves of the box and secured to it with screws.
Window blocks are installed on the frame using hinges(severable and inseparable). The difference between them is the possibility of removing the hinge. Detachable ones are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Smooth fastening of the hinges facilitates even hanging of window transoms. They are fastened using screws.
The sash is locked using a locking element or latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, you should secure the frame using nails.
Next we move on to installing window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges extend into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the lower part of the window opening.
The window sill is fixed using wedges. After installation thermal insulation material it is finally fixed.
Installation of ebb tides is carried out with outside opening– the entire width of the frame’s recess into the base.
The gaps between the casing of the base and frame, as well as the top and sides of the window, are covered with platband. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house is built as platbands.
All parts of the casing are connected to each other. To do this, use spikes, nails or an adhesive solution.
Placement marking is carried out in advance fastening elements (step is 10-12 cm).
So that during the process of attaching the platbands they do not move, the structure can be placed on glue.
The final stage is fixing the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws, and closing the gaps between the base and platbands with sealing material.

For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used., otherwise cracks will form inside the structure over time.
When making a joint, it is strictly prohibited use metal fasteners.
Construction foam should not be used as a sealing material when assembling the casing. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural drying.
When installing windows, it is important to make the holes for them correctly. Optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing frames, even if the house was built many years ago and the frame is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout its lifespan the tree has a tendency to dry out.
For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
It is necessary to choose hard wood as a material for the window sill. A window sill made of laminated wood has the longest service life; a window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is subject to warping).
The angles of the window opening should be 90 degrees, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base is larger than the allowable size, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure that the corners are even, the box may warp.
It is important to correctly calculate the seating depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point isoline, equal to 10 degrees, passes in its inner part. Then there will be no condensation on the inside of the window.

A window opening in a wooden house has always been one of the most complex construction units. With the advent of PVC windows, to the problems caused by shrinkage processes, an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles was added. In this connection, installing plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.

Let us immediately emphasize that the principle of fastening PVC windows is fundamentally different from the installation method of classic wooden frames, therefore, even experienced craftsmen who have no practice in this area construction work, it is advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.

You will find general information about the technology for installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step-by-step instructions for self-installation.

When preparing to install a plastic window yourself, you should pay special attention to the preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, Vacation home etc.), the absence of one specific key or device can create considerable problems.

Let's look at the main groups of tools that are needed to properly install a window structure.

Mechanics

From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual set home handyman will clearly not be enough.

Below is a list of mechanical tools required for efficient work with PVC profile:

iron and rubber hammer (an elastic striker is used to position the frame);
universal screwdriver;
set of hex keys;
handle for removing pins (with hexagonal tip);
electric drill;
drills for concrete and metal (diameters from 3 to 10 mm);
mounting wedges and gaskets;
universal adjusting key;
measuring kit (tape measure, square, building level, plumb line);
device for gripping double-glazed windows (“glass jacks”).

Please note that a regular hacksaw may not be enough for cutting expansion profiles, since some types of extensions can be reinforced with metal. Of course, it is possible to cut such a profile with a hand saw, but you will have to spend much more time on each detail.

Taking into account the above, it would be useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (a jigsaw or a circular saw), as well as devices for fixation (clamps).

It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for securing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.

Sealing

An integral part of assembly technology metal-plastic windows is sealing using sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.

When installing PVC profiles With your own hands, you can use sprayers supplied with cylinders of polyurethane foam, but for professional work It is advisable to purchase a separate device that will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.

We would like to separately emphasize that, in addition to polyurethane foam, when installing windows made of polyvinyl chloride, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.

Waterproofing

Any polymer sealant - and polyurethane foam is no exception - in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture is destroyed quite quickly. To slow down this process, the internal and external surfaces of the installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on the internal surfaces, such protection is called a “vapor barrier”).

This can be done either using special tape or through the application of special pastes (putties).

Depending on what type of waterproofing is preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.

Preparing for installation

After the PVC window has been purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters specified in the order.

Before you start technical description work on self-installation of windows, we list the main terms used to refer to the elements of their design:

frame (power base of the window);
sash (moving part of the window);
double-glazed window (1-2-3 chamber set of glasses combined into a single block);
impost (internal partitions of the frame);
glazing bead (snap strips necessary for fixing double-glazed windows in the frame or sashes);
fittings (window control and regulating elements);
slope (decorative panel covering the end of the frame or the internal plane of the casing);
windowsill;
addition (expanding profile used to correct geometric dimensions window).

Examination

As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.

If the order included a mosquito net, you must check the availability of fasteners for its installation.

In addition to completeness, the dimensions of the window and casing are checked for compliance. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It must be taken into account that when comparing linear dimensions, the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the internal width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2*2=196 cm.

In cases where the window was purchased with the expectation of adding extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.

Next, you need to select fastening pins, the length of which should be such that when fully screwed in, they do not pierce through the casing.

This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the window installation is carried out with drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a backup and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a frame consisting only of embedded timber.

The main method of fixing a PVC window in an opening is installation on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.

Disassembly and preparation for installation

The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembling the factory delivery kit. Despite the fact that window installation can be done without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window unit to manipulate.

Below are step-by-step instructions for the disassembly and preparation process:

remove the packaging and protective tape (from internal surfaces You don’t have to remove the tape, but if you leave it on the outside, then after 1-2 months it will “stick” tightly to the frame);
remove the glass units. To do this, you need to remove the glazing beads from the latches. You should start from the bottom;
dismantle the frames, for which you will need to remove the locking pins (a special key is used for this operation, mentioned in the previous section);
dismantle auxiliary fittings, otherwise they may be lost or damaged during installation (plugs for drainage holes, covers for hinges, etc.).
if the window is installed in a reverse quarter, stick the PSUL sealing tape to the outer perimeter of the frame;
drill holes for dowels or mount anchor plates (depending on the installation method).

We would like to highlight the following nuances:

when removing double-glazed windows, you should note the original position of the left and right glazing beads;
the lower edge of the double-glazed windows must be installed on special gaskets - their position must be noted;
It is best to grab glass panels using a special device (it is also indicated in the list of tools listed above);
The removed glass units should be handled with extreme care so as not to damage the edges (and also avoid vertical storage).

Installation methods

There are two different ways to install a PVC window with your own hands: with disassembling the window unit and without it.

This difference is due to two factors: the window mounting scheme and the weight of the structure.

The first option is more universal and allows window installation in any way.

The second method is used only in cases where the window block is fixed in the opening using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.

Obviously, window installation without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most assembled metal-plastic window units have significant weight, only the first option is recommended for self-installation.

Installation of plastic windows

In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on the correct assembly of the entire structure of the window block, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.

In this case, “auxiliary subsystems” mean:

waterproofing;
additional seals;
slopes;
low tides;
platbands.

Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.

Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when installed in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the slopes play the role of such a seal.

Now let’s look step by step at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.

Removing old windows

When dismantling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the frame, since making a new one will not be cheap.

In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened using self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remains of the mounting foam.

Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed down, which may require removal. additional tool- nail puller.

It is important to consider that before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of rotting or woodworm damage. If any of the the listed factors, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.

Let us note that regarding the replacement of the frame, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the Internet, among which there are those that claim that when renovating old houses, windows with metal-plastic frames can be installed without the frame. We consider this approach to be incorrect, since even an old frame with seasonal changes in humidity can create a displacement sufficient to jam or even destroy the window.

Of all types of wooden buildings, only in frame house You don’t have to install a sliding casing, but even in this case, the window is installed in a finished wooden frame.

Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings There is rarely a need for “pothole” repair of the installation site, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.

The only exception may be a situation when it is necessary to insert a window whose dimensions are smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when renovating a bathhouse). In this case, preparing the internal opening consists of increasing the thickness of the casing strips.

Frame fitting

The most common mistake done when installing a Euro-window with your own hands is the original dimensions taken incorrectly.

Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it actually matches the installation opening.

Fitting the frame is simple - 1.5-2 cm thick supports are placed on the bottom casing strip. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.

If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame with the help of extensions.

Let us separately note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less than the minimum thickness of the available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many people do this, after which they cannot understand why the expensive PVC window blows so cold.

It is important to remember: polyurethane foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it act as a substitute for a window profile.

Window frame installation

Once the size of the frame and the opening have been matched, you can begin the main operations.

Let's list them step by step:

Initial positioning. It is carried out in the same way as fitting: the frame is installed on centering pegs, after which it is necessary to achieve a uniform thickness of the installation gap along the entire perimeter of the frame.
Alignment of spatial position. For positioning in the vertical plane it is better to use a plumb line, in the horizontal plane - a building level. Working fixation is performed using side and top struts.
After the installation accuracy has been confirmed, secure the vertical points first, and only after additional check - the lateral ones. As mentioned above, fastenings can be long screws or anchor plates.
Immediately after completing the fastening, we recommend installing the drip sill, since after assembling the window, access to the corresponding mounting positions will be difficult (this point is especially relevant for windows located on the second floor).
Installation of window sashes on workplaces.
Installation of double-glazed windows. note that glass panel cannot be placed directly on the plastic of the sash (special gaskets must be preserved during dismantling).
Fixing double-glazed windows with glazing beads (in reverse order).
Close the doors and check the positioning again.
We carry out installation of fittings.

Let us remind you once again what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:

position of the transverse line of the window - for wooden houses it should run exactly along the center of the frame;
the length of the fastening dowels (if the through-fixation method is used) should not exceed the total thickness of the frame and casing boards;
To secure the outer “tails” of the anchor plates, use fasteners whose length is less than the thickness of the casing frame boards.

Window foaming

The next step is to fill the installation gap with foam. Despite its apparent simplicity, this stage has several technical features:

Polyurethane foam expands during polymerization and the force created by this can deform metal-plastic profile. Therefore, blowing should only be done on a fully assembled and closed window.
If you intend to use tape version waterproofing, it is much more convenient to immediately line the installation gap area from the outside of the frame.
To simplify the installation of the vapor barrier, we recommend cutting the tape and fixing it on the window frame.

Blowing is done with inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.

Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are best to install so that the savings are truly economical,” let’s formulate a simple rule: any, even the most expensive window, will not perform as advertised if not installed correctly.

Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, you must avoid the following mistakes:

incorrect position of the window according to the thickness of the frame. The consequence of the error is freezing and condensation. For classic houses Windows made of wood are installed along the center line. In cases where the house is lined with brick or lined with thermal insulation, we recommend contacting specialists to calculate the position of the window;
lack of seasonal adjustment. The consequence of the error is a violation of air exchange standards. In those windows where this is possible, adjustment is performed using splines placed in the desired position.

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for finishing, repair and restoration of log and lumber buildings, including the installation or replacement of windows. You can clarify the details of cooperation and order a surveyor’s visit by contacting our specialists using any of the communication methods published on the page.

Installing windows in a wooden house is easier than in brick or concrete buildings. This operation has a number of features, which we will discuss further.

Preparatory procedures are half the battle. A lot will depend on them.

Dismantling old frames

Before installing windows in a wooden house, it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. If your house is new and there are no double-glazed windows at all, you can skip this point. Most offices will charge 50% of the cost of new ones for dismantling old windows. Therefore, performing this procedure yourself is beneficial from an economic point of view. In addition, it does not require any special skills.

Tip: old frames can be used for greenhouses or outbuildings.

Armed with a puller, screwdriver and other tools, you will need to dismantle. We start with the doors: open them, remove them from their hinges and pull them out. Next, remove the frames, window sill and other elements.

Creating a simple casing

If we are talking about an old building and such elements already exist, you can skip this point. Before installing a window in a wooden house, you need to create a “casing”. A frame is a structure along the opening that saves frames from all kinds of damage. The timber (including round timber) begins to deform over time - this process is called shrinkage. So that it does not affect the new double-glazed window, this design is installed.

It is created as follows:

We cut out projections from medium-sized timber (3 pieces - for each side of the opening). They will be needed to create carriages (side elements). The outermost bars should be installed to a depth of 5 cm.
We create grooves at the ends of each element for secure fixation. To prevent them from creaking, we cover the structure with rolled tow. This measure will also increase the thermal insulation of the window.
We get a U-shaped structure. It needs to be mounted into the opening using large nails (200 mm) or special screws.

There are other options for creating a pigtail, but this one is the simplest.

We prepare tools and materials

We will need the following:

Powerful drill and screwdriver.
Level (preferably laser).
Chisel.
Roulette.
Gloves.
Polyurethane foam (or similar material).
Pliers.
Spacer bars (you can make your own).
Anchor plates.
Hexagon (it will be needed for final adjustment of the fittings).
Anchor screws.

Main scope of work

We move from preliminary procedures to the final stages.

Measurements and design

Self-installation of PVC windows in a wooden house begins with measurements. You will need to do the following:

Armed with a tape measure, measure all sides to the nearest millimeter.
We draw on paper a project for the future window, maintaining all proportions.
We mark places of divisions, vents and others constituent elements, which you want to see in your double-glazed window.
Having in hand ready plan, you can contact a window manufacturing company.

Starting stage - window sill

Installation must begin with the window sill, since it is the foundation of the entire structure. We install it as follows:

Two grooves with a depth of no more than 10 cm are cut into the side of the box. This will allow the window sill to be securely fixed.
We apply it and, if necessary, level it with wooden plates prepared earlier.

Advice: if the window sill is mounted at the end, a gap will form that will need to be sealed regularly. Installing it under the frame increases the efficiency of the design.

Having achieved a level position, we fix the window sill using self-tapping screws. You need to place a rubber gasket under the cap - this will prevent possible cracking of the plastic.
We drill holes where the window sill will cover the frame. They need to be done at low speeds so as not to damage the plastic. If you use a powerful drill, it may begin to melt during drilling, so it is better to arm yourself with a screwdriver.
We adjust the position with a level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal!

Some manufacturers offer double-glazed windows without window sills (they are purchased separately and installed at the end). We recommend purchasing all items from one seller at once - it’s more reliable.

Preparing the ground for further work

Do not rush to remove the factory film - it will protect the structure from damage. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We take out the frames and install the handle. To do this, put it in a horizontal position, fix it with bolts and lower it down.
We mark on the side posts the places for drilling the holes necessary for fixing the frames. The drill is 6 mm, respectively the self-tapping screw is 5 mm. On each side post you need to make 2 holes (4 in total). They should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from the lower and upper ends of the beam.
In order for the self-tapping screw to rest securely on the frame, it must be recessed. To do this, use a 10 mm drill to make holes up to the iron frame. The cap should fit freely into the cavity of the beam.

Installing PVC window

The time has come for the most important stage - installation of frames. We place the finished structure in the opening. We adjust the frames on both sides and control them using a tape measure and level. The distance from the sashes to the frame on both sides should be the same (within 1 cm). You also need to control the verticality of the installation. This can be done using a plumb line.

Having achieved a level position, we place a spacer block between the box and the frame. It will act as a stop during installation - without it, when screwing in the screws, the frame may move to the side. Having installed the bars, we once again carefully check the evenness of the location along the slope. After making sure that the window is perfectly horizontal (vertical), we secure the window with self-tapping screws. They should be located between the window and the frame.

This method of installing the box is highly reliable and mobile - if the wood is deformed, the frame will not warp. This is achieved due to the fact that the screws are able to move towards the skew.

We insert the adjusting plates between the drain holes (they are needed to drain condensate - without them the glass unit will inevitably fog up).
We insert a double-glazed window into the opening. It should not stand tightly - this is due to seasonal deformations of wood and other materials.

Important! If you find that there is no standard gap (5-7 mm), contact the manufacturer, as this is an obvious defect.

We install the glass unit evenly and fix it using glazing beads (they should be included in the kit) with profile spikes. You need to tap on them until a characteristic click appears, indicating correct insertion.
We fill all existing cracks with polyurethane foam. After 2-3 hours, cut off the excess with a knife.

This completes the installation of windows in a wooden house with your own hands.

A few words about cashing out

First of all, it is needed to increase insulating properties and hide flaws. It closes the foamed cracks, which completely prevents the possibility of cold air getting inside. There is a second function - aesthetic. Window casing in a wooden house frames the opening favorably, giving it an attractive appearance.

It can be performed from various materials, most often made of plastic. These are ready-made structures that only need to be secured using self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the window. However, carved cashing is sometimes performed for wooden houses. It can be made to order or independently, if a person has carpentry skills. After installation, the cash is coated with an antiseptic and wood varnish - this will prolong its life.

Every reader of the site knows that no matter what material the windows are made of, they help keep the house warm and emphasize the individuality of any home. Therefore, the installation process should be treated with special attention. After all, even the most expensive and energy-efficient window design loses all its advantages if it is installed incorrectly. In this article, our experts tell you how to properly install windows in a wooden house, frame or stone.

Wooden, stone and frame houses and country houses have a row design features. Since they affect window installation technology, any developer should be aware of them.

From our article you will learn:

How to prepare for installation window design;
What stages of work precede the installation process;
What features should you be aware of in order to install windows in wooden, frame and stone houses;
How to install wooden window with your own hands - how different its installation is from installing a plastic window;
How are installation joints protected?
How to control the installation process.

Preliminary preparation

Despite its apparent simplicity, installing windows at home is a process that requires a serious and responsible approach. After all, the quality of installation directly affects the level of comfort in the home. Here's where the process begins:

Anton Karyavkin Head of the technical center of REHAU, Moscow.

First of all, you need to carefully prepare: read the instructions and existing installation standards, and acquire the appropriate tools.

A professional installer's kit includes about a hundred different “tools”. It is not necessary to have them all, but without the basic kit it will not be possible to install a translucent structure. It includes: a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a foam gun, a chisel, a hammer and screwdrivers.

When choosing tools, you should also take into account that window installation involves a wide range of additional work.

These include:

Plastering slopes in stone buildings;
Construction of seams and thermal insulation;
Installation of window sill and additional components.

The main thing to remember is that the installation technology directly depends on the material of the building walls.

Anatoly Gavrysh Head of the design bureau of the Window Factory company

The type of house significantly influences the window installation procedure. In houses where there is significant shrinkage (most often in wooden houses), a casing floating box with compensation gaps is used. In other types of houses window installation has the same schemes.

Installing wooden windows in a frame house with your own hands.

We install wooden windows with our own hands

Developers believe that between PVC installation There is a big difference between a wooden window and a wooden window, but experts disagree.

Anatoly Gavrysh:

There is practically no difference between installing a plastic and wooden window. The only slight difference is different elements fasteners

Do-it-yourself installation of a wooden window should be done more carefully. And in each case an individual approach is required.

Alexander KorpachevHead of the installation department of the company "Business-M"

Even windows in the same house can have their own characteristics. Therefore, in your work it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations of GOSTs, namely:

Window installation seams - with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes;
Technical specifications, GOST R 52749-2007;
Assembly seams of units and junctions of window blocks to wall openings;
Are common technical specifications, GOST 30971-2002;
Window blocks are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) profiles. GOST 30674-99.

In general terms, the installation consists of the following steps:

Preparation of the opening;
Window preparation;
Installation;
Finishing work;
Finishing.

Anatoly Gavrysh

I would like to dispel illusions about the ease of installation of both plastic and . To carry it out yourself, you definitely need certain skills and special equipment, because correct installation is of decisive importance in how high quality and how long new window structures will last.

In detail, the installation of both plastic and wooden windows is done as follows:

1. Window openings are cleaned of dust and dirt.

2. The windows are installed in the opening and wedged with small plastic or wooden corners strictly according to the level.

Corners are necessary to form a gap (margin) between the frame and the opening. Along the perimeter - between the window and the opening, it is recommended to lay a technological gap for foaming 20 mm wide. At the bottom of the window - under the window sill, it is recommended to leave a margin of 35 mm.

3. The structure is fixed.

Fixation is carried out using dowels or special mounting toothed plates. If the window is fastened through with self-tapping screws, then before doing this, holes for the anchors are marked and drilled in the opening. The number of attachment points depends on the size of the window and on average ranges from 40 to 70 cm. From the corners of the frame it is necessary to make a distance of 12 -15 cm.

4. The seams between the window structure and the opening are foamed.

To save foam, if the gap exceeds 40 mm, it can be filled with insulation - polystyrene foam, etc.

5. The foam is covered with steam and waterproofing tapes.

The vapor barrier is glued along the entire perimeter of the window structure on the inside (from the room side), and the waterproofing film is glued on the outside, from the street side. After foaming, the protective strip is removed from the tape and the foamed seam is closed.

6. Additional elements - flashings and platbands - are installed in their place on the outside (if the installation takes place in wooden houses).

7. The fittings are adjusted.

Features of installing windows in a wooden, frame and stone house

Anton Karyavkin

Installing windows in buildings made of rounded timber is the most difficult. This is due to changes in the design of wooden houses from manufacturer to manufacturer.

If developers use different types of wood when installing windows in a wooden house, it is almost impossible to predict the behavior of the material - each time you have to study everything from scratch. The deformation of logs in such buildings can be quite large: from 8 to 15 cm. The house shrinks, so not a single window in such conditions can remain operational for a long time.

Correct windows in a wooden house.

Here's what we can do to protect the structure from possible deformations caused by shrinkage of the walls, using the old carpentry method:

Anton Karyavkin

The most responsible developers begin to cut an opening in timber walls only a year or even two after the construction of the house. During this time, it is possible to track all deformations, taking into account the characteristics of the material and climatic features region.

After the opening is cut, a rough frame, also known as a “frame” or “casing”, is inserted into it, into which the window structure can then be laid.

Alexander Korpachev

In all wooden houses, when installing windows, it is necessary to use a casing or frame - a wooden box that levels the load on the frame.

Between the upper part of the window opening and the frame, a technological margin of 30 to 70 mm is usually left. After installation, the stock is filled with insulation and covered with platbands on both sides.

Anton Karyavkin

The box is made from wooden blocks 50-80 mm thick.

Despite the fact that the box absorbs the deformations of the logs quite effectively, the installation joints in this type of building still remain movable. Here it is important to choose the right mounting foam - it should not collapse when the walls shrink. Such correct foam can be found on the market, but it is relatively expensive. Therefore, experts often replace it with other materials, mainly of plant origin (tow). Of course, tape and coating materials necessary for protection assembly seams, must also have a high class of deformation resistance.

Glued laminated timber shrinks significantly less than solid logs. Eventually laminated veneer lumber deforms less than a regular log.

But it is still difficult to install windows in a wooden house with your own hands.

How to install a window in a frame house

Wooden windows can also be installed in a frame house, but plastic windows are most often used. Control of the installation of any windows at all stages should be checked using a level or plumb line, and the horizontal and vertical deviation should not exceed 1.5 mm per meter.

Anton Karyavkin

The process of installing windows in a frame house is much simpler than in a wooden one. You will still have to deal with deformations of the window opening, but they are no longer so significant.

It is better to use anchor plates as fasteners. Installation with construction screws is not recommended: they secure the frame, and deformation of the wood, in turn, can cause damage to the windows.

How to install a window in a frame house

It is important to remember that when installing a plastic window in a framed room, it is necessary to wrap it in window hole. This is necessary in order to connect the window vapor barrier circuit with the room vapor barrier circuit.

Brick different types, concrete, aerated concrete blocks- these are standard Construction Materials. The technique in stone houses has been worked out for years. Fastening is carried out using dowels and construction screws; the use of anchor plates is also allowed.

Anton Karyavkin

In some cases, installation technology may be influenced by design decisions that require taking into account the linear dimensions of structures and wind load in the region.

Protection of installation joints and stages of control of installation work

Regardless of the wall material, it is necessary to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and atmospheric moisture. Otherwise, it will become loose and lose its properties over time. To protect it, special insulating tapes and sealants are used. The latter are good because they allow you to close any cracks and irregularities, unlike mounting tape, requiring a perfectly flat, dust-free surface.