Next to a private house or cottage there is always a free plot of land where you can build a small but extremely useful structure - a barn. Its purpose is very diverse, from storing equipment and solid fuel for the stove, to keeping animals. Wood is most often used to build a shed. And this is completely justified: it is affordable, durable and easy to use. You can build the structure yourself, following simple step-by-step instructions.

The first questions that will need to be resolved before starting construction: where and what to build the barn from? The area of ​​plots is often limited, so you need to use the land to the maximum. As an option, you can build a shed against one of the walls of the house or fence. If there is enough space, then you can choose absolutely any place, the main thing is that the building is convenient to use.

You can build a wooden shed from different materials:

The first two types of wood will provide a high-quality, durable and warm construction, but the construction process requires large financial and physical costs. The remaining types are suitable for lightweight structures that will be used as storage space; they will certainly cost less, and even one person can build such a shed.

Advantages of a wooden shed:

• Possibility to build “warm” and “cold” versions of the structure;
• Fast construction time;
• Availability and wide range of materials for construction;
• Ecological purity of wood;
• Possibility of using any decorative finish and lightweight types of foundation.

Don't forget about the appearance of the barn. It should be harmoniously combined with other buildings on the site. Exterior unity can be achieved through modern finishing materials, such as siding or corrugated sheeting.
In order not to make a mistake when calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to prepare in advance a plan with the exact dimensions of the shed and make markings on a plot of land.

You also need to stock up on fasteners, tools and materials for arranging the foundation and decorative finishing, if required.

Construction of a shed from timber or logs

If the outbuilding must last for many years, then it is best to choose timber or logs as the basis for the walls, because the service life of buildings made from them can reach 70 years. These materials will provide high-quality thermal insulation in case of keeping livestock or poultry indoors. The building is also suitable for storing equipment. To build a large barn, additional labor will be required.

It is better not to use a shed made of timber or logs for storing firewood, since it does not have sufficient ventilation to dry the heating oil.

Foundation preparation

If there is no time to prepare the foundation, you can replace it with pillars dug to a depth of 60-80 cm.

The principle of laying the foundation is similar to that described above.

Strapping and erection of frame

It is more convenient to start construction by arranging a site that will serve as a floor and foundation for the construction of walls. The lower trim should be made of 150x150 mm timber, treated with an antiseptic. The foundation must first be covered with roofing felt to protect the structure from moisture.

The strapping bars can be joined end-to-end and secured with metal corners, or in half a tree. In the second case, the joints must be secured with nails or studs.

The floor joists are attached to the frame with special brackets or corners. To do this, 50-60 mm boards are placed on edge and fixed with self-tapping screws onto the beams in increments of no more than 60 cm. The location of the joists must be aligned along the upper edge of the trim so that when laying the floor the surface is level.

The next stage is installation of the floor. It can be fixed with self-tapping screws or nails. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps, and that the outer contours of the floorboard or OSB coincide with the bottom trim.

Then the racks are mounted at the corners of the base and secured with the top trim. To make your work easier when building a pitched roof, the racks can be immediately adjusted to size, two of them should be 50-80 cm higher. For a gable roof, all racks must be made the same. Next, additional supports are installed along the perimeter of the walls every 50 cm and openings are formed for windows and doors.

Roof construction

It is advisable to erect a shed roof for a barn - it is quick and economical. Moreover, the attic in such small buildings is rarely used.

If the top frame is at an angle, then the rafters from the boards can be laid directly on it, turning them on the edge. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm so that the roof can withstand a large snow load.

Plank sheathing is laid on the rafter system. The pitch depends on the roofing material. Under roofing felt, the sheathing must be continuous; under ondulin, boards can be laid at a distance of no more than 40 cm; under corrugated sheeting, a step of 60 cm is acceptable.

Wall cladding and installation of doors and windows

You can cover the walls with OSB or boards (edged and unedged). The slabs and edged boards are laid end-to-end and secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Unedged lumber is mounted with an overlap so that there are no gaps between the boards.

It is better to use ready-made windows, since their manufacture requires the skills of a carpenter. The door can also be custom made from wood, metal or plastic, or cut from OSB board and reinforced with bars.

All stages of the construction of a frame shed can be clearly studied in the presented video.

Finishing

OSB or board does not always look attractive. In addition, if the boards are waterproof, then the lumber needs protection from moisture, sunlight and insects. Therefore, decorative cladding of a frame barn is an almost mandatory condition for durability and aesthetic appearance.

You can also arrange a cellar under the barn, which you can make yourself.

The building can be sheathed with different types of materials. When choosing them, you should focus on the exterior of adjacent buildings. For example, siding can perfectly imitate brick, logs and other materials; if corrugated sheets are used in the decoration of the house, then the barn should be sheathed with the same, choosing the appropriate shade.

House or country outbuildings are most often built from wood and its derivatives. These materials provide variability in construction and the quality of the finished shed. If all the work is done correctly, the building will last a very long time, retain its attractive appearance and will not lose its functionality. Therefore, it is so important to follow all stages of construction from laying the foundation to decorative finishing.

In this series of articles I will tell you how to build a 3 by 6 meter barn with your own hands in a country house with a pitched roof and a columnar foundation without outside help.

Do you want to build a shed with your own hands? Believe me, it’s not difficult, if you have the desire! An example that has already been reproduced by many of our readers is a barn built by me personally and with my own hands, without the involvement of covens and even friends and comrades. Below, in these articles (start at the bottom), you will find a detailed step-by-step report, photographs and even a 3D model of my shed with dimensions and general estimates (costs) for construction.

Foundation for a barn. Part 1

In the first part, we'll start by choosing a location and building a foundation for the shed. We will build a columnar foundation, since this is the least expensive option for a fairly light summer house building.

Where do we start building a shed?

Of course, from choosing a place and marking it for the foundation. The place for construction should be close to the house; it is advisable that when working in a barn or near it, for example, when sawing firewood, you can see the entrance to the house and the entrance to the site.

This is, of course, a wish, but in no way an indication, especially for owners of small plots where there is not much choice.

Just remember that you will have to run to this barn to get firewood for the stove... even in the rain.

I was inspired to build a new barn by the future planned construction of a new extension to the house, as well as the demolition of old dilapidated outbuildings that were already falling apart.

It was decided to build a barn 3 by 6 meters with a timber frame on a columnar foundation, quite high in the front part, which was due to the pitched roof.

Inside, I decided to divide it into two utility blocks - a 3x3 meter workshop and a 3x3 meter woodshed. Where the workshop is located, two windows will be made. In the future I plan to put a workbench with a vice and shelves for tools needed in the country house there.

And this is the kind of barn I ended up with. I would like to immediately note that four winters have already passed since the construction (since writing the article I have been constantly making adjustments), the barn remains in place and pleases its owners.

Barn in 3D

Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button held down to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.

To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.

At the end of the articles about building a barn, I will post the entire list of materials and tools that were used for construction, as well as an approximate cost estimate, of course, on the day of purchase. For those interested, in the photo gallery section I have posted an archive for downloading with all the photographs of the barn construction process that were not included in the articles in this section.
So let's get started!

Marking the space for the foundation

To accurately mark, we will need a 10-meter tape measure, sharpened pegs or steel rods, rope, and an ax or hammer to hammer in these pegs. We mark - we hammer in pegs, well, approximately as in the photo. There are no difficulties here. Don't forget to measure the diagonals of the markings with a tape measure, they should be equal and the right angles should be right.

We are building the foundation.

Since the soil on my site turned out to be not heaving, but sandy, it was decided to make the foundation for the barn columnar from brick, since there was enough of it left from the old stove, which was destroyed during the construction of the new one.

To build the foundation, I decided to dig 15 holes for brick pillars, every one and a half meters. Here, of course, it was possible to save money on work, but then spend money on timber...

Will explain:
I included in the project a beam for the logs (base) 100×100 mm and a floorboard 40 mm thick. If you take a 150 mm beam and a 50 mm floorboard, then in principle you can get by with 9 brick columns.

It’s up to you to decide whether to save on work when digging holes for the foundation or money when purchasing lumber.

So, here they are, holes dug approximately 600-700 mm under the columnar brick foundation. In principle, after asking local builders about the depth, I learned that 30-40 cm of depth would be sufficient. Then, you need to pour 10-15 centimeters of PGS (Sand and gravel mixture) there and you can lay the brick.

Having dug 15 holes for the posts, I of course went to the store to buy CPS (Cement-Sand Mix) for laying bricks. I bought a couple of 25 kilo bags, but as it turned out later, it wouldn’t be enough... In total, it took 8 bags.

At the end of the entire story, I will post a complete breakdown of the materials used and the approximate cost in money at the time of construction of the barn at the dacha.

I installed brick pillars, as shown in the photo below:

I placed steel pins in the corner and central posts (I cut threaded rods with a diameter of 10 mm with a grinder) for precise installation of the vertical beams.

I checked all the foundation columns for level and alignment using a cord.

Since I didn’t have a theodolite, I set everything according to the hydraulic level (the area at the construction site was sloped) and added cement mortar to the required height.

After completing the construction of the brick pillars, their surface was plastered with a mixture for external use. Firstly - for aesthetics, and secondly - to protect the brick from contact with the ground.
It took 2 bags of mixture.

For better waterproofing of brick foundation columns, I recommend treating them with a special waterproofing mastic before filling them with sand. I didn’t do this, since no one told me at the time, but I assure you that a couple of 2-kilogram cans of mastic and a couple of hours of work will significantly extend the life of the shed foundation.

The mastic is approximately the same as that used to protect the underbody of a car - black, bitumen-based, sold in any hardware store.

You will see photographs of plastered columns in the continuation of the story.

Installation of the lower frame of a barn made of timber. Part 2

So, in the first part we built the foundation for the shed, let's move on. Perhaps this part will be the longest in description, but not the longest in construction.

To work comfortably with timber and boards, we will need “goats” or their like. Notice - the emphasis is on the first syllable... We are building something like the one in the photo below. I think that every summer resident will have one of these, especially if your house is heated with wood. And probably others do too, it’s an irreplaceable thing if you need to cut something in half...

If, by a strange coincidence, they are not there, then you should definitely build them - they will come in handy anyway.

Read how to make sawhorses that are easy to use and lightweight in the article “Goats for sawing wood.”

Construction of the lower foundation.

First of all, I installed logs or a timber base under the entire frame. I made the joints of the timber into half a log. Well, the photo below shows how. To do this, we make neat cuts in half the thickness of the timber, and then knock out the excess with a wide chisel or a sharpened ax.

Before installation, I treated the timber going under the joists (base) with colorless protective impregnation OBZ (fire-bio protection) - a mandatory operation if you want your shed to stand happily ever after. It is better, of course, to use fire protection with color rather than colorless, then it is better to see those places that have already been treated.

Here, below is a larger plan of joining the beams at the corners - in case anyone doesn’t understand. Naturally, between the timber and the foundation brick column there is waterproofing in the form of a double piece of roofing felt. The central pin has a diameter of 10 mm, and accordingly we drill a hole in the beam with a diameter of 10 mm. We constantly monitor all dimensions with a tape measure and slopes with a hydraulic level.

Installation of vertical racks made of timber.

In the beam, which will be installed vertically, we drill 10 mm guide holes for the pins.

To do this, manually install a beam cut to size onto a pin protruding from the base so that its edges coincide with the edges of the base and press it slightly, turning it slightly around its axis. As a result, a characteristic mark is formed on the end of the beam - where we drill a hole for the pin.

This will not necessarily be the center of the beam - there are errors. The main thing is that, after installation on the pin, the beam stands up like a “native” one - flush with the base.

The beam installed vertically on the front of the barn has a size of 3 meters. The beam located on the rear wall is 2.2 meters high. In total, we have a slope of about 30 degrees, which is quite enough to drain rainwater and snow.

I processed the beams installed vertically in the corners of the future shed with an electric planer on 2 inner sides, and the beams located in the middle of the shed frame on 3 sides. On all sides of the timber facing the inside of the barn, I chamfered the corners with an electric planer (rounded the corners). This operation was done only for aesthetics and so that the unplaned wood does not catch splinters.

The sides that will later be sheathed with external boards were left untreated with a plane.

The entire surface was then coated and impregnated with a special fire-retardant composition - the “Maple” color scheme. In addition to its protective properties, such impregnation also has an aesthetic value - it pleases the eye.

To prevent further swaying, we secure the vertical beams with 4.2×70 self-tapping screws and steel angles to the base of the shed.

As a result, we get something like this design. (In the photo below, one vertical beam has not yet been installed, it lies painted below - you can see it).

Installation of trestles and upper timber frame. Part 3

We continue to build with our own hands and in this part we begin work on the upper tier of the future barn.

We will build the upper perimeter of the frame from timber.

And for this, if you don’t have a crane, you will need to build high trestles, or, as you can also call them, mobile scaffolding.

It will be much more convenient to work on them than, for example, from a regular ladder, although we will also need a ladder for doing some work in the upper tier.

We manufacture an auxiliary structure - scaffolding trestles.

We will assemble them from 50x50 mm timber and inch boards.

The entire structure with the railings did not fit into the lens. This is what they look like assembled:

And I started building them like this:

I fastened with nails (just don’t nail them to the head - so that later it will be easier to pull them out) two 50x50 beams cut to size to the base of the shed, but not parallel, but with an increase in width towards the base, and made cuts for the steps. The size is basically arbitrary, but if anyone needs it, I’ll take the real one.

Then I cut and attached the steps. I made all the fastenings with self-tapping screws; the structure is more rigid than using nails and is less loose during operation.

Below in the photo is the first part of my scaffolding - the ladder.

I made the second part of the vertical stand, fastened everything together with the same timber and used an inch board as the floor. When installing the floor, fill the boards with a small gap so that water from rain can easily drain down. After assembly, the entire structure was impregnated with a fire-bio protective composition with a beautiful “Maple” color scheme.

For more details, with dimensions and additional photographs, on how to make such a structure, read the article - “Do-it-yourself construction trestles”.

In principle, the structure has been assembled and tested under its own weight, and now you can begin “high-altitude” work on assembling the upper frame.

We level and fix the vertical support bars.

First, we need to accurately level the vertical beams of the frame of the future barn, which we installed in the last part of the story. To do this, we will need several sticks-boards acting as slopes (an old picket fence will do) to temporarily fix the vertical beams in the correct position.

We find the exact slope in all planes and fix it with a slope stick using a pair of nails. Again, we hammer the nail so that the head sticks out - it’s convenient to pull it out. In the photo it looks something like this:

After the oriented and correct fixation of all vertical posts and beams, you can begin to install the upper part of the shed frame.

This is where the mobile structure we made called “goat-forests” or as I affectionately call it “uraza” comes in handy. which in the old Pskov dialect means something big, heavy and not having its own clear name...))

In the beams cut and trimmed to size (6 meters each), we make cuts in half the log in the right places, and this is at the ends and in the middle. And we put them in place, look at the photo below.

To do this, of course, you will have to climb onto the mounted trestles, having previously loaded the installed beam onto their platform. You will have to exert yourself a little, if you suddenly do not have enough strength, you should invite an auxiliary force (assistant). I got over it in one fell swoop, although I was pretty sweaty.

We fasten all the connections of the timber to each other with steel corners using self-tapping screws. Photo below.

Now our structure is completely stable, and we can begin the final installation of the upper full perimeter.

So, if you remember, the front wall of the barn is 3 meters high, and the back wall is 2.2 meters high.

Installation of cross bars.

To make it easier to install the transverse side beams in the shed frame, I used a simple fastening scheme. On the supporting vertical posts at the top, I marked the height and installed steel corners, securing them with self-tapping screws, which can be clearly seen in the photo below.

And then, I simply laid the timber cut to size on these corners.

I pulled them to the corners with self-tapping screws and pierced them from the end with 200 mm nails through a vertical beam. That's it, the barn frame is finished.

For more comfortable work, to be higher up, I decided to lay the floors first, and then proceed to complete the work with the upper frame perimeter and the floor and roof of the barn.

Floor and rafter system of the barn. Part 4

The time has come to build a floor in the barn and install a rafter system under the roof - we continue to work with our own hands. I will need the floor for further high-rise work in order to drag my trestle-scaffolding structure, which I made in the last part, inside for the installation of rafters and roof sheathing, and so as not to step over the floor joists.

Again, there will be somewhere to put something, for example: a tool or a cold bottle of beer and lemonade.

So let’s get down to the story, I don’t pour water – just one specific thing.

Building the floor

There are no difficulties here, just accuracy. We measure the required size of the floorboard along the lower frame, cutting out the areas around the posts (vertical beams) in the floorboard, and lay it on the floor joists along the length, that is, 6 meters.

To lay the floor, I used a 40 mm thick board and laid it along the length of the barn, i.e. I didn’t saw, but only trimmed it to a six-meter size. Naturally, I treated all the boards with fire and bioprotection before laying. It was transparent, so it is not visible in the photo.

Tip of the day:
Take OBZ (fire bioprotection) with color, this will make it easier to identify those places that have already been coated.

I did not fasten the boards, as is usually done - from above with a nail or a self-tapping screw to the floor joists, but fixed them with a self-tapping screw on the side, hiding the screw head. You can see it in the photo below.

Since the board used was not 50 mm thick, but 40 mm thick, I fixed the boards from below to each other obliquely every 40-50 cm so that they sag less.

Fixing the boards from the side to the joists and from below to each other in a secret way is justified by a simple solution - in the future, level the floor with a plane. The boards are not ideal in thickness and to make the floor more even, I decided to level it using an electric planer after finishing the work, in the place where the workshop will be. It is easier to sweep away debris from such a surface, and a planed floor looks much more aesthetically pleasing.

If you are not bothered by the unevenness of the floor after assembly (a barn is not a house, after all), then attach the floorboards in whatever way is easier for you.

That's it, we're done with the floor.

We prepare and install the rafters.

I made the rafters for the roof from the same board as the floor - 40 by 100 mm.

To begin with, I took all measurements along the length, including the extension of the rafters beyond the boundaries of the shed frame. I made the rafters extend approximately 300 mm in the front and 200 mm in the rear. If this size is important to someone, write in the comments below the article, and I will make an accurate measurement.

Having measured one rafter and made cuts on it in places where they support the upper rafter beams, I, using this rafter as a template, prepared all the other rafters in the amount of 12 pieces.

I decided to treat the rafters, as well as the entire top in the future, with fire protection in a different color - pine. This color has a yellowish tint that contrasts with the main color of the barn - maple.

In my opinion it turned out well.

There is one small nuance here - before preparing the rest of the rafters according to the template, first take measurements along the top of the entire frame of the future shed; if the size of the width of the upper frame of the shed floats (the beam may be a little crooked), then it is better to check the specific location before making each subsequent rafter fastenings

We fix the installed rafters on the side with long self-tapping screws and on top with a 200 mm nail. Here, the previously made scaffolding goats help us a lot, on which you can comfortably sit with the tool inside the shed, dragging them to the floor.

The step between the installed rafters was approximately 50-60 cm. The photo below shows how the rafters are located, here 1-2 cm to the right and left do not play a big role.

After installing the rafters, we begin installing the sheathing under the roof, installing waterproofing, and, of course, installing the roof itself.

As I already wrote in previous parts, I will provide a full estimate for all materials used at the end of my story about building a country shed with my own hands.

Installation of sheathing and wind protection for the barn roof. Part 5

After completing the construction of the rafter system, we begin manufacturing sheathing for installation of the ondulin roof.

To install the sheathing, I used the same “inch” board (25×150 mm), which will later also be used to sheath the walls of the shed frame.

Since I decided to cover the roof with ondulin sheets, and they are quite flexible and soften in the sun, the step between the sheathing boards was 150 mm.

The width of the shed is 6 meters, the length of the boards is also 6 meters, so the boards were only cut at a right angle at one end and laid on the rafters in a checkerboard pattern to ensure that they extended 300 mm from the sides beyond the perimeter of the shed. The rear rafter offset was also 300 mm, and the front rafter offset was 450 mm. This length of the protrusion above the main frame of the barn was justified by installing an anti-wind system, the width of which is a multiple of the width of the board - 150mm.

If anyone doesn’t understand something, I’ll explain everything in more detail below and everything will become clear.

For the convenience of installing the sheathing, I dragged the construction trestles I made in the second part of my story inside the barn - this is more convenient and safer than climbing on a shaky rafter system.

We fasten the sheathing of boards with self-tapping screws or nails to the rafters, 2 pieces for each rafter.

To strengthen the roof in the middle of the barn, in the places where the timber passes under the rafters, I vertically installed supports from the 40x100 mm board from which I made the floor. Attached to the timber and rafters obliquely with self-tapping screws. Circled in red in the photo below.

We finish installing the sheathing and begin installing the anti-wind system.

Don’t forget to coat all the boards going under the sheathing with fire protection. I used OBZ with a color scheme - pine, which contrasts with the main color of the barn - maple...

Installation of anti-wind system

As the name implies, this system is designed to protect our roof from strong gusts of wind. Or as they say - so that the roof does not blow away. And from an aesthetic point of view, rafters covered with boards from below look much nicer.

If you look from below, the final version looks like the one below in the photo.

The bottom line is that we simply cover the rafters with boards from the bottom and sides. As a result, we get a finished and very nice look for the top tier of the barn.

The width of the board is 150 mm; therefore, the width of the front overhang of the anti-wind system will be the width of three boards, i.e. 450 mm. Two boards will be used on the sides and rear of the barn, since the extension of the rafters beyond the frame in these places was 300 mm.

We sew up the front part of the wind protection of the barn roof from below with three trimmed boards. We sew them with nails or screws from below to the rafters.

The front part of the barn's wind protection is finished. We sew up the rear overhang using the same principle.

There is nothing to fasten the boards from the sides from below, therefore, you should stuff 300 mm long pieces of the same inch board onto the sheathing boards from below. We will attach the bottom boards and the side front wind protection board to them.
Look at the photo below.

At least 3 pieces of such trimmings should be nailed on each side - at the ends and in the middle. To prevent the board from bending downwards in waves and to hold on tighter, do not be lazy and install 4 of these racks.

We finish installing the roof wind protection and admire the result.

All that remains is to sheathe the walls of the barn with boards and lay roofing material on the roof. But that's in the next part.

Sheathing the walls of the barn with boards. Part 6

Having completed the preparatory work with the roof, we begin to install board walls on the frame of the country barn made of timber. For the installation of walls, lining, siding or profiled boards are usually used.

In my case, the lining will not work, since it is too thin and is only suitable as an additional decorative component. The “toad” didn’t give me the money for a profiled board :)), siding is a completely different story, so I decided to cover the walls of the barn with an ordinary inch board (25x150 mm) in the “American” style. This name comes from the fact that, before the invention of siding, this is how the first settlers in America upholstered their houses.

The essence of this method is that the boards are stuffed from the bottom up with a slight overlap (2-3 cm), like a herringbone pattern. Therefore, during the drying process of the wood in such a wall, no gaps form between the boards. Which, undoubtedly, would have happened if I had simply filled the boards end-to-end, even after finishing the joints with a plane.

Since my barn at the dacha was conceived as two in one - a woodshed and a small workshop, only the walls of the workshop and the entire front part of the barn were upholstered with “American” wood. Where the woodshed is located, I filled the boards in a V shape, with a gap of 1-1.5 cm between the boards so that the firewood could be ventilated and dry, and for beauty, of course.

I planed the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Firstly, to save expensive fire-bioprotection, and secondly, to ensure that rainwater does not linger and easily rolls off the surface of the boards.

There is nothing complicated in the installation, as they say - pour it... in the sense: saw it off and hit it! :))

To begin with, of course, you should decide where the entrance to the barn will be, the entrance to the workshop inside the barn, and also prepare the windows.

You should start by laying the first, lowest board along the entire perimeter of the shed. And then, we nail each subsequent board with an overlap of 2-3 cm on the bottom one.

We fill the boards onto the frame of the shed in a circle - first on the front, then on the sides and back. This way it will turn out more evenly and therefore more beautiful. I don’t recommend nailing boards first to one wall and then to another; you will definitely end up with one wall higher or lower than the other. Use a tape measure to mark and a level to ensure the boards lie level.

Before you start installing the walls, it would be a good idea to decide where the windows will be in the workshop; it is advisable that they face the south. east or west sides, then the barn will always be light. In my case, it turned out to be the east and south sides.

I had no experience making window frames with my own hands, and I was just too lazy to cut it all out.

In my attic I found two unused sashes from a window frame and decided that these were just what I needed for the windows in the barn. Of course, they are a little narrow, but for such a small shed, in my opinion, they are just right.

Having decided on the location of the windows, I built two frames from floorboards (40x100 mm) for inserting window frames on the east and south sides. The photo below shows the design.

Having secured the window frames with self-tapping screws, I continued to sheathe the walls of the barn with boards. And just then they brought ondulin to the roof.

In the next part we will cover the roof of the barn with ondulin and finish with cladding the walls.

If you have any questions as you read, feel free to ask below in the comments.

We lay the roof from ondulin. Part 7

Finally, hour X came, and it was decided to finally finish with the roof of the barn; the increasing rains pushed me to this decision and I began laying the ondulin sheets on the prepared sheathing. Before this, the barn that I was building stood like this in the photo below.

We lay ondulin sheets on the roof.

The purchase of ondulin as a roofing material for the roof was due to a simple desire to save money and nothing else. If you have extra money, I recommend buying metal tiles or corrugated sheets, since these materials are not flammable, unlike ondulin, which contains bitumen resins that burn very well.

In the same store, I immediately bought special nails with waterproofing caps, I’m afraid to make a mistake, in my opinion, when installing on an ondulin sheet, there are about 20-25 nails. If you buy ondulin for your roof, then don’t forget to pick up instructions for installing ondulin sheets there, in the store; it says there how many nails should be taken per sheet and how to position them correctly. You can also read about installing ondulin here.

In principle, you can see all this in the photographs below.

As waterproofing under the ondulin, I laid roofing felt on the sheathing, securing it to the sheathing boards with staplers. It happens with us that the breeze blows so hard that even the staples won’t hold it in – it tears everything off and flies away...

I started installing the ondulin sheets on the left side, when looking at the back of the barn. In my mind, of course, it is more convenient to start laying on the right, then you don’t have to slip the next sheet under the previous one, but put it on top, which is undoubtedly more convenient. Well, that’s how it happened... I didn’t get enough information.

We lay the first sheet of ondulin from below and very carefully trim it along the perimeter of the roof. This is a very crucial moment, and if we make a slight mistake, then by the end of the roof we may end up with the entire structure slanted and slid somewhere to the side.

We pierce the sheets with a nail from the top of the ridge and, of course, in those places where the sheathing board passes.

I made the overhangs in front and behind the sheet from the edge of the roof approximately 5 and 8 cm, respectively.

This work does not require high qualifications, only attentiveness and accuracy.

Okay, we're done with the roof, thank God. It's time to finish covering the walls with boards. Photo of the shed after laying the roof below.

We finish with wall cladding.

We cut to size and hammer in the last boards and, of course, do not forget to coat the entire structure with fire-bioprotection (OBZ). To protect the wood, and of course for beauty!

In the photo below you can see a piece of linoleum in the left corner of the barn, on which I loved to sit in the evening and watch the sunset - they are beautiful!

I have long understood that work should be enjoyable, there is no need to drive horses, everything should be done sedately, thoroughly and thoughtfully. Only in this case will you not mess up, excuse the slang, and will receive incomparable pleasure from the work done and the awareness of your importance to yourself and other people.

Well, enough of the lyrics, although where would we be without it...)) It's time to finish with the walls. Having used all the boards for the walls of the barn and glazed the windows, I got the following result. See the photo below.

In the photo the barn turned out to be kind of crooked)), but this is a bug of the camera I used to shoot it, in fact everything is smooth and beautiful.

There weren't enough boards...literally 20 of them to complete the project. Paying for delivery (1500 rubles) because of twenty boards was simply choked by the “toad”, and time was up - autumn came with rains.

In the future we will build an extension to the house and there is a plan to build a gazebo with a barbecue, so we still need to order the material - we’ll wait until next summer.

We need to order two more doors with frames and finish off the walls of the barn. The last part of my story will be at the end of summer 2013.

The plans are to finish the barn:

• Finish with boards the front wall on the left and the internal partition between the woodshed and the workshop.
• Install two doors (entrance and workshop).
• Upholster the corners of the barn and trim on the windows.

In conclusion, a few more photos with views from the inside, for a clearer understanding of the structure of the barn.

Yes..., I treated the floor in the workshop with an electric planer so that it would be smoother and the debris would be swept away like clockwork.

If you want to build something similar at your dacha and you need more information, then write to me, below in the comments or through the feedback form, and I will post a complete photo report of building a barn with your own hands in high resolution for download in the PHOTO GALLERY section.

You get all the pleasure from your work if you can pamper yourself with country recipes in the evening! We read about delicious treats that you can prepare at the dacha for yourself and your family.

In the next part of the story about building a barn for a summer house with my own hands, I will lay out a complete breakdown of the tools and materials that I needed for this country house construction. You just need to find all the receipts...))

Materials and tools for building a country shed. Part 8

So, let's make some estimate that may help you build a barn for a 3 by 6 meter summer house with a pitched roof on your own.

Why did I decide to build a barn with my own hands? Well, firstly, of course, out of savings, and secondly, I myself have more than once encountered such “gentlemen-schemers” who take an advance and then disappear. Before this, of course, they swear that they will do everything quickly and efficiently, but... having received the money, they disappear without a trace.

Alas, this is Russian reality and good, moderately drinking craftsmen who do not need to be pushed with a stick, who understand everything themselves, go to work and do everything as it should, are so few...
Well, let's not talk about sad things.

If you want to do it well, do it yourself!

Let's follow this saying and make a shed for our dacha with our own hands. Moreover, it is not so difficult and you can get by with the efforts of just one healthy man with arms growing from the right place.

I built it and you will build it. The assistants were my wife, who helped coat the lumber with fire and bioprotection, and of course the good weather.

Materials in the table

Material	Quantity	Price	Sum	Note
Brick	Didn't count	—	—	Approximately 6-7 rows, two bricks in each row, for each column. In the case of a shallow foundation, you can reduce it to 4-5 rows.
PGS (sand and gravel mixture)	15-20 buckets	—	—	A large bucket for each hole.
PCS (sand-cement mixture)	10 bags of 25 kg	95	950	You will need less if you make a shallow foundation.
Ruberoid	3 rolls of 15m	320	960	Used to waterproof the foundation and roof of the barn.
Cement plaster	2 bags of 25 kg	160	320	For external foundation work.
Threaded metal rod 10mm	2 meters	—	—	For installing pins into foundation columns.
Board 25x150x6000 Approximately 2.2 m 3	100 pieces.	6,000 rub. per m cube	12 120	Boards for walls and sheathing of barn roofs. I gave the quantity taking into account the boards that I didn’t have enough.
Board 42×105x6000 1.27 m 3	46 pcs.	6,000 rub. per cubic meter	7 302	Sorokovka board for installing floors and rafters.
Beam 105×105x6000 1.058 m 3	16 pcs.	6,000 rub. per cubic meter	6 348	Used to build the frame of a shed.
Bar 53×53x600 In linear meters	60 meters or 10 pcs.	17 per meter	1 020	For the construction of mobile construction trestles with railings and stairs.
Delivery, unloading	—	—	—	Find out this point at the sawmill.
Antiseptic "Biotex" - maple color	4 things. Can 10 kg	1160	4 640	For impregnation of boards of the main structure of the barn.
Antiseptic "Biotex" - pine color	2 pcs. Can 10 kg	1160	2 320	For impregnation of roof boards and subsequently the corners of window frames, for contrast.
White Spirit	2 cans of 5 liters	350	700	For diluting Biotex antiseptic.
Corner 100×100	60 pcs.	—	2 000	For assembling a barn frame from timber.
Corner 40×100	26 pcs.	—		For assembling goats.
Self-tapping screws 4.0×40 Yellow or white	1 package 200 pcs.	160	160	For fastening corners 40×100.
Self-tapping screws 4.2×75 Yellow or white	2 packs of 250 pcs.	209	418	For fastening corners 100×100.
Self-tapping screws 4.5×100 Black for gypsum board	1 package 250 pcs.	300	300	For lateral fastening of rafter boards and floor boards to each other.
Nails 50mm	1 kg	90	90	For attaching inch boards.
Nails 90mm	1 kg	90	90	For attaching inch boards when laying “American”.
Nails 150mm	1 kg	90	90
Nails 200mm	1 kg	90	90	For fixing beams and rafters.
Ondulin	16 sheets	365	5 840
Nails for ondulin	100 pieces.	3	300	Nails with a closing cap.
Wooden door with frame	2 pcs.	800	1 600	Doors for the entrance to the barn and an internal one for the entrance to the workshop.
TOTAL	RUB 47,958

* Dashes in the table mean that I did not remember the prices for specific materials or did not find receipts. But these amounts are insignificant and will not greatly affect the overall result.

* Dimensions of lumber, nails and screws are given in millimeters (mm)

* The indicated prices for building materials correspond to the summer of 2011. Some goods were purchased at discounts using a discount card, etc.

Tools you'll need

With such a fairly large-scale construction, you will need a minimum set of tools for working with wood and iron.

• Electric or gasoline chain saw;
• Drill;
• Electric planer;
• Cordless screwdriver;
• Angle grinder (grinder) - for cutting rods (not necessary if cutting them with a hacksaw);
• Circular saw (parquet) - may not be needed. I needed it to dissolve the boards;
• Wood hacksaw;
• The hammer is large;
• The hammer is medium;
• Ax (sharpened);
• The chisel is wide;
• Construction corner;
• Level;

Auxiliary Tools

• Wide brushes or roller for applying fire and bioprotection;
• Drill 200×10 mm;
• Several pencils;
• Construction stapler with staples;
• Construction knife for cutting roofing felt;

Perhaps I forgot to indicate something. If I remember anything, I’ll add it right away. If something is unclear, ask questions in the comments below the article.

Installation of doors to the barn, completion of work. Part 9

As you may remember, I didn't have enough lumber to finish building the shed and the completion of the job had to be delayed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started the last stage of construction.

The boards I needed were left over from building the house, which I will talk about in another section of the site. All that remains is to buy two wooden doors with frames and the necessary hardware: door hinges (left), handles, as well as fire protection for wood with the colors “maple” and “pine”.

If you remember, I left the barn in this unfinished state:

I started work, perhaps, from the most difficult moment - assembling and installing door frames. I bought solid wood doors, and as a box, each door was accompanied by a set of three bars with cuts made in them for the door leaf. Therefore, we had to take measurements, cut these bars taking into account the door gaps and connect them into a box.

We install the internal door.

I started by installing an internal door leading to the part of the barn that I had prepared for a small workshop.

On one side, I secured the assembled box to a vertical wall beam; on the other side, to secure the box, I installed a vertical stand made from scraps of magpie boards; fortunately, there were quite a lot of such two-meter scraps left over when making the rafters.

Next we had to tinker a little with installing the hinges. To do this, I first set the lower gap between the door and the frame using slipped corners - they are convenient to adjust the gap by increasing or decreasing it by driving in or pulling out the corner.

Then, having marked the locations of the top and bottom hinges, using a set of chisels, I selected excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that when installed, the hinge would sink slightly into the frame and door leaf.

Having attached the upper and lower hinges to the door with a pair of self-tapping screws, I placed suitable pieces of wood under the door leaf and, adjusting the hinges to their places, finally secured the door in the frame.

We install an external door.

Using the same principle, I installed an external door to the barn. Only in this case, as a second vertical support for the door frame, I used a piece of timber and a piece of magpie board on top. I also secured them with steel corners and sewed them on the side diagonally with self-tapping screws.

It was necessary to use 100×100 timber due to the convenience of fastening the outer boards of the wall, as well as later door frames, under the vertical board of which we leave a gap equal to the thickness of the board used (approximately 25 mm).

Important! Let me remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outside) side with an electric planer. At the same time, we save wood impregnation and also increase the resistance of wood to the adverse external influences of water.

For the convenience of working with a plane, I slightly modernized the sawhorses for sawing firewood, namely: I screwed two planks to the “horns” of the sawhorses with self-tapping screws. Now it has become convenient to place a whole board on them and go through them with a plane.

I sewed up the internal wall between the woodshed and the workshop with boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a plane on all sides, paying special attention to the “ribs” to minimize gaps. Of course, they still form when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics...))

We had to tinker a little with the outer wall to prevent the boards from starting to “peck” up or down. To control, I used a level and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.

Having finished sewing up the outer front wall, I left an unsewn area above the door for installing a small canopy there in the future. A little lower you will see what I meant.

Having finished painting, I began manufacturing and installing the door frames and the canopy over the door. Well, there’s nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photograph.

For now, a Euro pallet serves as steps. In the future, I plan to build normal steps at the entrance, close (ennoble) the columnar foundation and make a workbench in the workshop. So far, the old sofa has taken root in the workshop, having successfully avoided the auto-daffé.

Mistakes made during construction, as well as useful tips that will definitely help you when building a shed with your own hands, we will consider in the final 10th part.

Only those who do nothing make no mistakes.

Rehabilitating myself with this well-known saying, I suggest you read this final part of the story and learn from the mistakes of others, in this case mine.

Also, I want to give a few more useful tips that will undoubtedly be useful to you when building your own barn in the country.

Barn foundation

After two winters, the foundation of the barn, one might say, did not fail and stood with the exception of one column. If you remember, I made a columnar foundation from old bricks left over from the collapse of the old stove. Exterior cement plaster was applied over the brickwork.

And now, it seems, due to excess moisture, a couple of unreliable bricks in this masonry began to collapse. Accordingly, the cement plaster also fell off, as can be clearly seen in the photo below.

Causes

From the above, I concluded that the foundation columns are insufficiently waterproofed. It seems that during the autumn rains and spring melting of the snow, water accumulated and lingered around them in the soil and did its destructive work.

If you remember, after making the posts, I filled the holes with previously removed sand and soil. So, now I come to the conclusion that holes should be filled with material that does not accumulate water, such as slag, gravel or crushed stone.

Error correction

Next year we will probably have to jack up the front beam of the lower frame of the barn and partially replace this column. It may also be necessary to dig all the columns 30-50 cm deep, cover them with mastic and fill them with crushed stone to prevent similar destruction of the brickwork in the future.

And as I already noted in the first part, you should cover the columns with a special waterproofing mastic, which you can buy in hardware stores.

You can read more about the basics of constructing a columnar brick foundation, as well as other options for columnar foundations here.

Frame, floor and wall cladding

As for the frame of the barn, I did not find any complaints about its design during operation, but I would still recommend making the floors from 50 mm thick boards. In principle, the forty suits me, but if you want the floor to be unshakable, then it is better to use a 50x150 mm floorboard.

When cladding the outer walls of the barn, I made an unfortunate mistake - I used simple nails, not galvanized ones. Here, of course, it’s not a matter of saving, the savings are meager, my head just didn’t think about the obvious facts. But I got unsightly stains on the wood from rusty nail heads. See photo below.

Moreover, where I used self-tapping screws with a black coating, the so-called drywall screws, there were no rusty stains.

The conclusion here is clear - use only galvanized nails and self-tapping screws (screws) with a chemical protective coating for exterior work.

Error correction

If you still used simple nails, then the only option here is to apply varnish or paint to the surface of the heads to prevent contact with water and, accordingly, rusting. This is done with a simple small brush.

Fire protection

As fire and bioprotection, I used “BIOTEX – universal” with the colors “maple” and “pine” in 10-liter packaging. This is not advertising, but simply a fact.

I bought this one because I was satisfied with the price-quality ratio. I think that, in principle, any similar bioprotection composition will be suitable.

In addition to fire-bioprotective properties, this composition also has its own color for the decorative component; it is not water-based and is diluted with white spirit.

Before use, for better absorption into wood and some savings in bioprotection, you can add a little white spirit. This composition dries quite quickly in warm sunny weather: 0.5-2 hours.

Also, before applying it should be thoroughly stirred, since all the color settles to the bottom.

I applied it with a wide brush in 2 layers, drying between layers for about 30-40 minutes. This coverage lasted for 2 years, although the manufacturer claims 3 years. On the south side of the barn the color has faded quite badly. The boards painted pine even turned a little grey.

Therefore, when I was completing the construction of the barn, I once again went through all the walls with bioprotection. At first I thought not to go through the northern side, but then I painted it too, because... at dawn and sunset in the summer (we have white nights), the sun shines directly on it.

It should be remembered that the sun and water are the main enemies of wood.

You should also remember that the planed surface of the wood requires 3 times less impregnation - a significant saving. And if you decide to use BIOTEX - universal, do not leave the leftovers for the winter - they will be lost. Either use it all up, or take it with you to the city.

Tool

I try to purchase branded tools, especially for electric and gas powered tools.

In my work I used a Makita electric chain saw, a circular saw from the same company, a Hitachi screwdriver, but I bought an electric planer from some unknown Chinese manufacturer “Matrix”. That's where he let me down...
But as you know:

A stingy man pays twice, a fool pays three times, and a sucker always pays!

When the construction of the barn was completed, at some point the plane began to make obscene sounds, turning into a screeching sound with strong vibration. The quality of planing has noticeably deteriorated - the surface of the boards is no longer perfectly smooth, and some small waves have appeared. They are clearly visible in the photo below.

Incomplete disassembly of this device did not reveal the reasons, and I simply did not have the time to disassemble everything, piece by piece, and, frankly speaking, the desire.

I think that one of the support bearings has screwed up. Self-repair is hardly possible.

Now I’ll have to buy a new electric planer, but one thing I know for sure is that it will be a branded tool, maybe Makita or Bosh.

The conclusion here is of course simple and accurately expresses the following proverb:

I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things.

That's probably basically all I wanted to say. I hope this part of the story about building a garden shed with your own hands was useful to you.

https://greendacha.com/stroimdachu/sarai-hozbloki/stroimsaray-part1—link

The brick will crumble in 10 years. You need to take a hand drill with a 120mm nozzle, drill holes to a depth of 120 cm, pour 20-25 cm of sand + crushed stone and then fill it with concrete (3 buckets) and then install the reinforcement cage. Insert a pin into the concrete from above.

The depth must be dug to the freezing depth in your region + 10%, let’s say for Moscow it is 120 cm + 15 cm substrate.

It's amazing what a person can do when pressed...

A barn is an outbuilding necessary on any personal plot, every dacha. There are three main uses for a shed: a storage area for firewood and building materials, a place to store garden supplies and construction tools, and a place for pets (birds, pigs, goats, cows) that need a roof. First, let's look at how to build a shed with your own hands, in the first or second case. That is, we will build on our plot of land a simple wooden shed without insulation with a pitched roof.

Building a shed is a good way to master the construction of small and medium-sized wooden buildings at your dacha. If you are a beginning builder, approach your work responsibly, the entire work scheme must be thought out, you can calculate the project, use the drawings, calculate how much everything will cost. Consider whether you will have a pitched or gable roof. It's better to spend more time preparing than to redo it later.

List of building materials

For the foundation you may need a sand-gravel mixture or sand with crushed stone, cement, roofing felt. A good option is screw piles. You can simply use antiseptic wooden beams or sleepers - but a wooden foundation will not be durable. The choice of foundation depends on what kind of projects you have.

It is most convenient to make the frame from timber with a cross-section of more than 100 mm inclusive and boards 100×40 mm. Just 10-15 years ago, the main material for wooden frames was debarked logs with a diameter of 15-25 mm. In terms of strength and durability, they are not inferior to lumber, but experience with an ax is required, it will take more time, and you will not get perfectly smooth walls.

Most often, the cladding is made from boards. You can use boards of any kind, even unedged ones. To simplify construction, you can take OSB board or moisture-resistant plywood. If the barn is located next to the house, and you do not want it to stand out for its simplicity, use clapboard, block house, and siding options for cladding. How many of them are needed must be calculated based on the area of ​​the walls.

The roof, its single-pitch version, is made from inexpensive materials: metal profiles, corrugated sheets (Ondulin), roofing felt with a UV protective layer. A pitched roof always promotes better ventilation.

Necessary tool

1. To cut the boards, you will need a choice of: a hacksaw, a chain saw, a circular saw (circular saw) or a small woodworking machine.
2. To connect all parts using nails, you need a hammer. When you are hammering boards by weight, you may need a second, larger hammer or a cast iron piece.
3. You can use self-tapping screws and angles as the main fasteners - in this case you will need a screwdriver with a high-capacity battery or a wire, possibly a drill.
4. To make the simplest grooves, you need an ax and a chisel. For some elements, a plane will be useful.
5. For the foundation you need a shovel and a drill, a container for mortar or a concrete mixer.
6. The most important thing is a good measuring tool: a tape measure, a plumb line, a liquid level, a corner. Use a special construction pencil or marker.

What to build a barn from

You can choose any options, everything is determined by your skills and financial capabilities. The easiest option is to make it from boards. The roof can also be made of wood, using the so-called shingles method. If you have a metalworking tool, you can make a frame from a profiled pipe and cover it with metal sheets; the roof will be made of the same material. The most durable barn can be made of bricks or foam blocks, but such buildings are more often used for keeping animals. In this case, the roof can also be made from heavy roofing materials: asbestos-cement sheets or ceramic tiles.

How to build a barn with your own hands with a pitched roof step by step

Building a shed - step-by-step instructions

It is unlikely that you will find 2 completely identical barns in one village. The barn on each site is different in at least some way. The information below is one example. Do what you can and think is right, the main thing is to think through each of the stages in advance.

Drawing

Look at these examples. It is better to calculate your own drawing, at least on a standard A4 sheet. Consider all the main dimensions: length, height, width, roof length. After this, calculate and purchase the required amount of building materials.

Foundation

• Choose a place on the site. Always try to build on a slight elevation - this is additional protection from excess moisture; do not place the shed close to the beds on the south side so as not to shade the plants. If possible, avoid creating problems for your neighbors by building close to their fence. It is a good idea for the line of the barn to be parallel to the line of the house, or for one wall of the barn to continue the wall of the house at a certain interval.
• Mark the area with pegs. Using a rope or a long tape measure, check the diagonals. The simplest and cheapest version of the foundation is done this way: remove a layer of turf soil, fill in a sand and gravel mixture (SGM), compact it, level it horizontally and lay the treated crown beams on top. This is a fast but not durable method. The wooden base will rot in 10-15 years.
• Pile foundation. We dig holes 30-40 cm wide and 75-95 cm deep. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand or ASG and tamp it with water. Be sure to adjust the height. To do this, take a 1 m long strip and place it in a hole dug at the highest place. By adding sand, we will ensure that the rail protrudes by 20-25 cm. Mark this point on the marking peg. Let's set this point on all corner pegs using a liquid level. Let's stretch a rope between them. This line will need to be used as a guide for the depth of all other holes. The distance between the holes can be taken as 80-120 cm.
• As a form for concrete, we use roofing felt 1 m wide. We will make a roll of it in 2-3 layers, 15-25 cm wide, and tie it with wire in 3-4 places. Let's install it in the recesses. For reinforcement, we use 3-4 corrugated rods 10-12 mm thick, tie them together with wire, and stick them into the ground inside the roofing felt. Fill with a solution in the ratio of 1 part cement - 8-9 parts ASG or 1 part cement - 3 parts sand - 6 parts crushed stone. After 7 days, the columns are carefully covered with earth so as not to move the foundation.
• The earth is compacted well.
• You can buy ready-made foundation blocks. Dig up the turf, place a cushion of ASG under each, compact and install them.
• A screw pile foundation is a good option. There is no need to dig anything - the piles need to be screwed in with a crank. Next you need metalworking tools: cutting and welding. We also cut according to the level. Plates with holes are welded on top to secure the bars with long bolts.
• Using a monolithic slab or strip as a foundation for a light shed is not advisable. But for a building made of bricks or foam blocks it is simply necessary.

Walls and partitions

For the base of the frame, use timber 100x100 or thicker. Connect the corners into the wood floor. To withstand strong winds, secure it to the concrete using anchors. If your barn is not large and there is a flat area, the easiest way is to assemble the wall frame on it. Use 100x40 boards, first assemble a frame along the length and height of the wall, the boards should stand on the edge, connect at the corners with metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Precisely saw off the intermediate boards and place them on edge at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Don't forget about space for a window or door. Build at least two walls. Place one wall in place, support it with a batten, and secure it with a nail. Lift the second side, connect the two walls with nails, screws and corners. Secure them to the bottom beam with metal plates or 100 mm nails. It will be easier with the two remaining walls.

Cover with the material of your choice. Nail it. Typically tongue and groove boards are nailed horizontally, just like siding. Join the OSB boards together with edges sawn off at the factory.

Helpful advice:

When using an unedged board horizontally, fill it in a herringbone pattern, starting from the bottom. When installing vertically, to avoid gaps, nail two boards first, and a third one over the gap between them.

Before laying the floor, you need to make a lath for it. 100x40 boards are suitable for joists. They are installed on the edge, secured to the lower beam, flush with it. For fastening, use corners with an additional lower ear. The distance between the logs is 40-80 cm, depending on the thickness of the boards for the floor surface.

Roof

For a simple barn in a country house less than 3 meters wide, it is advisable to use a pitched roof. The minimum roof slope is 20-25 degrees. For the rafters, the same frame boards are used, installed on edge, at a distance of 60 cm from each other. They are fixed to the upper part of the wall frame, also using corners and self-tapping screws. 25 mm boards are nailed onto them. The distance between the boards is from 40 cm for hard sheets, to 5-10 cm for soft roofing. To fasten the roofing material, nails and screws are used; soft bitumen sheets can be glued to mastic.

DIY barn

When settling into a summer cottage, the first thing they do is build a utility block from various materials and different sizes. In many cases, this is just a change house or temporary shelter until a permanent structure is built, but some people strive to create amenities almost like in an apartment.

Options for utility room - choose for your needs

Building a utility block with your own hands after purchasing a plot is the next task for its owner. Why do it on your own, because you can buy a change house or order construction? There are several reasons why many people prefer to build themselves. Firstly, the financial issue: after purchasing a plot, not everyone will have the money to purchase a utility unit or pay for construction by contractors.

Secondly, many cabins available for sale often cause dissatisfaction with those who bought them because their service life is too short. And thirdly, if you have construction experience and leftover material, you can build a utility block yourself, not of a standard type, but based on your needs. It will last a long time economically, and the experience gained during its construction will be useful in the future.

Having bought several acres, summer residents strive to immediately build a reliable utility unit for various purposes:

• as housing until the house is built, in order to later remodel it for other needs;
• outbuilding for equipment and other property;
• as a dressing room, pantry, bathroom, summer kitchen;
• as sheds for rabbits, poultry, and livestock.

The utility block is a universal room; everyone can adapt it to their needs. If the owners spend a lot of time working on the land at their summer cottage, then they will think about a rest room, about a bed in it to spend the night. A small compact structure can look like a simple barn or a house from a fairy tale. It all depends on the needs, capabilities, and priorities of the owner.

Materials and projects - what and what to build from

Construction begins with the foundation and ends with the roof. There is no particular choice in materials here. The foundation is made strip or columnar. For tape you need sand, cement, crushed stone or concrete blocks. Columnar is made of brick or stone. Recently, asbestos-cement pipes have been used, which are filled with concrete. The utility block is usually covered with inexpensive material: slate or corrugated sheeting.

The construction of walls often confronts a summer resident with the problem of choosing a material. One should proceed from several factors: cost, labor intensity, thermal protection, if they are going to live in the utility block in the winter. Cheap material will save money, and lightweight material (panels, aerated concrete) will allow you to build a cheaper foundation. Large blocks, panels, sip panels, boards, and corrugated wall sheeting will significantly speed up construction.

To build a utility block, one of the simplest schemes is increasingly used - frame.

Having sorted out the material, we decide on the purpose and, accordingly, the dimensions, and make drawings. The smallest storage shed, which can also serve as a temporary shelter, has dimensions of 3.5 x 2.5 m. If we expect to have a warehouse, a room separated by a partition, or a corner for cooking in the utility unit, we will need dimensions of 4.5 x 3.0 m. In both cases, it is impossible to find a place for a bathroom; you will have to install a toilet and shower in the yard. A 6×3 utility block will allow you to place everything you need for living with minimal amenities.

Frame project 6×3 – how much material is needed

Let's look at how to build a 6x3 m utility block, how much and what material will be needed. We focus on one option, because it is impossible to consider all the diversity. If the dimensions of your frame structure differ, it is easy to calculate the amount of material by increasing or decreasing it.

When starting construction, we make sure to draw a drawing as best we can, and based on it, we draw up a list of materials. You shouldn’t rush into this; it’s better to think it through carefully until you find the ideal option.

You will need bars 100×100 mm:

• for lower and upper frames 6 m long - 6 pieces, three-meter ones - 8;
• for vertical supports – 2.4 m – 11 pieces;
• 2 pieces of 6.6 m for rafters;
• plus horizontal bars on doors and windows.

Boards needed:

• 20 pieces 25×150 mm for the floor, the same number for the ceiling or replace with another material (plywood, fiberboard, etc.);
• per sheathing – 7 pcs. 25×100 6 m long;
• for windshields the same 2 pieces, but 3.6 m long;
• for fastening rafters – 50×100×3600 – 6 pieces.

If we are making a metal frame for a building, we focus on the length of the lumber. We calculate the amount of material for the foundation and covering based on the size of the building. If the foundation is strip, you will need quite a lot of sand, cement, and crushed stone. The columnar one will cost much less; for a frame utility block it is a good option.

We begin construction - foundation and lower trim

We make a columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 150 mm. First, we mark the place for the foundation: remove the turf and a layer of earth to the depth of a spade bayonet. Fill it with 10 cm of sand and tamp it down well. At the place where the pipes are installed, we dig holes 1.2 m deep, fill the bottom with sand, and tamp them. We place pipes of the required length into the holes.

Using a building level, we check the verticality, horizontality and correct location around the perimeter of the building. We fix the position by filling the space between the poles and the ground with sand. We fill the pipes inside with concrete or cement-sand mortar. First, fill it to a third of the length, lift it slightly so that the solution goes into the hole and forms a solid base at the bottom. We fill the pipes to the top, compacting the concrete so that cavities do not form. In the center of each pipe we place an anchor to secure the frame frame.

While the foundation takes several weeks to gain strength, we prepare the frame. We make a rectangle from 10x10 cm beams, fastening the corners into half a tree, fixing it with nails and self-tapping screws. To strengthen the frame, we install logs across it inside. We treat the wood for the frame, as well as for the entire structure, with antiseptics or twice hot drying oil. At the top of each column we lay roofing material for waterproofing. Place the frame on the anchors and tap lightly to mark the locations for the holes. We drill holes, install the lower trim on the foundation, securing it with nuts on the anchors.

Continuation of work - erecting a frame, assembling rafters and roofing

We begin assembling the frame from the ends, fastening the building materials to the lower frame using metal corners. To strengthen the fixation, you can install diagonal struts from beams or temporarily fasten them with a board using self-tapping screws. We assemble the front part of the frame, installing the vertical posts, then the rear. The distance between the posts is 1.8 m. We strengthen the frame with diagonal struts made of beams.

Don’t forget about windows and doors, creating openings in the places where they are installed. The size of the doorway is 2x0.85 m. We install crossbars for the windows: the lower horizontal at a height of 80 cm from the frame, the upper - 1 m from the bottom. If we plan to arrange several sections inside, we install partitions. We finally fasten the frame racks at the top with beams.

We make the roof depending on the method of assembling the frame. If the building has front and back sides of different heights, we install rafters on the longitudinal beams of the walls and attach the sheathing to them. If the walls are the same height, we assemble the rafters on the ground, and then install the finished ones on top. We create the necessary slope by raising the front part by 50 cm. But you should keep in mind that one person will not be able to lift them, so if there is no assistant, we assemble them at the top.

We cover the roof, lay the floor, sheathe the walls

Immediately after assembling the frame, we cover the roof. The list of available roofing materials is large, so we make the sheathing for large sheets sparse, and for rolled material - continuous. Before laying the floor, it is advisable to insulate the subfloor: fill the openings between the pillars with any material, fasten them with cement mortar, and fill the inside with expanded clay. We lay the floor from the boards along the joists.

We cover the walls, starting from the front wall, going from bottom to top. The material can be different: boards, lining, siding, corrugated sheets, etc. We insulate with glass wool; it is not advisable to use polystyrene foam - mice adore it. from the inside, we make partitions, install windows, hang doors - the utility block is ready and, undoubtedly, will become a decoration of the land plot.

The first building that should appear on a building site or summer cottage is a utility block. More often it is simply called a barn. What is it for? What is the advantage of having it? How can you use it on your site? What can it be built from? And how can you build a frame utility block with your own hands?

Construction of a separate utility block - what is the advantage?

A barn or outbuilding is a non-residential structure on a site where you can store various types of property, which includes gardening and country tools, carpentry tools, conservation. The outbuildings provide space for storing firewood, additional space for keeping poultry and storing food for it. Such an outbuilding is good as a harvest storage, workshop or as a summer kitchen.

Some, when constructing outbuildings, also include a toilet and shower in the layout. It's nice when, after exhausting work in the garden or garden, you have the opportunity to take a refreshing shower. For a family that often visits their dacha in the summer, such a structure couldn’t come at a better time.

A utility block is especially needed if there is nothing else on the site - a vegetable garden and a garden. In the summer heat, you can hide from the sun in it, and in unexpected rain, the utility block will not let you get wet. If in the future it is planned to build a residential building on the site, then the barn can also be a change house for builders, in which their tools can be stored.

What to build a utility block from?

Today, outbuildings are built from different building materials. One of them is foam blocks. In Russia it has been used recently, in Europe it has been in use for almost a hundred years. A utility block made of foam blocks is warm, suitable for keeping pets, and in terms of heat and sound insulation it is practically not inferior to a wooden shed. The thickness of 20 cm contributes to this.

There are disadvantages:

• a foam block shed needs a good foundation;
• they are afraid of water, so they need protection from below to prevent foam blocks from absorbing water;
• They do not accept ceilings made of concrete slabs. However, there is a lot of honor for the barn.

Another option is to build a utility block from a metal profile. Metal profiles of the LSTK system (light steel thin-walled structures) are a good material for building a shed. It is light, durable, and easy to install. This metal profile is used in frame construction, analogous to wooden frames.

And if we talk about a utility block made of corrugated sheets, then this is a barn erected using a frame method from wooden beams and sheathed on the outside with profiled galvanized sheets, which can be painted in different colors.

But the most well-known and accessible method of constructing a utility block, understandable to most, is frame. How to do it? It is worth considering the step-by-step process of this construction.

Stage-by-stage construction of a frame outbuilding

Foundation preparation

Having marked the place for the shed, you need to remove the entire top fertile layer of soil, 15-20 cm deep, from the marked area and, having leveled it, compact the area. Then a 10 cm layer of sand is added and compacted again. Under the columnar foundation, holes are drilled in the ground at the four corners and in the middle of the wide sides of the future structure with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 120 cm. A pillar under the foundation will be installed in these holes. Its length should be 120 cm.

A layer of sand or gravel is added to the bottom of each hole under the posts and compacted. Then asbestos-cement pipes are lowered there (they are hollow), their vertical is set using a level and fixed by pouring and tamping sand.

The next step is pouring the pillars. One third of the internal volume of the pipe is filled with mortar, after which the pipe must be raised 10-15 cm so that the cement mortar poured inside fills the bottom. This will create a concrete base larger in diameter than the pipe. With this type of foundation design, soil heaving will not harm it.

After all this is done with all the pillars, you need to wait 2-3 days. We must not forget about the verticality of the pillars.

When the voids of each of the pillars are filled, you need to insert an embedded reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm on top, immersing 150 mm in the cement mixture. Twenty centimeters should protrude from the pipe. This reinforcement will secure the assembled grillage. The columnar foundation must stand for at least two weeks.

Grillage

The grillage is the frame, the basis of the structure. It is assembled from beams, the cross-section of which is 150 by 150 mm. The beams must be treated with an antiseptic, fire retardant and two layers of drying oil. They are connected to each other in half a tree. At each connection, the beams should be secured with four wood screws. Before installing the frame, roofing felt is laid on the foundation to prevent moisture from absorbing into the wood. Next, logs are installed from beams with a section of 100 by 100 mm. The spacing of the logs relative to each other is 1.35 m.

barn frame

To build the frame of a utility block, you need timber 150 by 150 mm and 100 by 100 mm. On the front part of the building you need to place a beam with a height of 3000 mm, and for the rear wall - 2400-2500 mm. This is necessary to create a pitched roof in the future.

First, the end walls of the building are assembled, each of which will have a window opening. The posts that will be placed at the corners must be placed on protruding grillage reinforcement, which, in turn, was mounted on the columnar foundation reinforcement. Each beam must be positioned strictly vertically, taking into account window openings and entrance doors. In addition to the beams at the corners, two more beams should be added to the end frame. The front and rear frame walls should also have at least two beams, and preferably four. Between them, for greater rigidity, diagonal beams are mounted. Between the second and third beams on the end walls, the upper and lower lintels are mounted under the opening of the future window.

When installing the front wall, the vertical posts must be set on the basis that the opening for the front door must be at least 850 mm and at least 2000 mm high. This opening should be in the middle of the front wall. This is exactly the distance between the additional beams, in addition to those mounted in the corners.

Rafters

The next step is to install rafters from timber 100 by 50 mm long and 1 meter greater than the width of the building. This was done taking into account that the rafter beam will protrude 30 cm at the back and 70 cm at the front. The pitch between the rafters is 85 cm. Then a film or water barrier is stretched over the rafters. On the rafters, on top of the hydraulic barrier, a 25 mm lath is placed perpendicularly in increments of 40 cm. Then slate can be laid on this structure by nailing it with nails.

Cladding and finishing

The entire construction is completed by cladding the exterior with cladding material. Corrugated sheets can serve them well. We must not forget that from the outside, before installing the corrugated sheeting, the entire frame must be tightened with a hydraulic barrier. Inside, the walls will have to be insulated with mineral wool and covered with chipboard. The same goes for the ceiling. The joinery is installed, the floor is mounted on board joists and the utility unit is ready.

When starting such a project, you need to learn and read a lot in order to build a utility unit with your own hands. It's not easy on your own. Perhaps for a long time. But this is experience that can still be useful.

Video with the successive stages of building a utility block on your own: