Even a non-professional can make partitions from plasterboard with his own hands. It can be erected in as soon as possible and at minimal cost. Drywall partitions do not have to be just square or rectangular: they can be semicircular, radius or arched.
Required materials
To work you will need:1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles for creating a frame. They must be equal in width: the rack profile must easily fit into the groove of the guide.
2. Construction level.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Plumb.
6. Drywall. Since the partition is sheathed on both sides, it will require 2 times the required area.
7. Soundproofing materials: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Metal scissors for cutting aluminum guides.
11. A sharp knife for cutting drywall.
Guide and rack profiles
Frame installation
1. Using a square and tape measure, mark on the floor the place where the partition will be mounted. You can transfer this line to the ceiling using a plumb line. The partition must be installed exactly at an angle of 90° with respect to the walls.
Transferring markup
2. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling using dowel nails. guide profile(it is marked with the letters UW). For the construction of a thin partition, a width of 50 mm is sufficient. When laying soundproofing materials inside the partition, the UW100 profile should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.
Attaching the profile to the ceiling
Important! In places where the profiles adjoin the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to lay sealing tape. It will not only dampen sounds, but also reduce the risk of cracks. The polyethylene foam tape is attached to the profiles with the adhesive side.
Attaching the sealing self-adhesive tape
3. Rack profile installed in guide grooves in increments of 60 cm. This is done using metal screws. In this case, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the drywall sheets are exactly to the center of the profile. The outer racks are secured first.
Attaching the rack profile
4. If necessary, you can lay inside the partition electrical wiring. It is laid horizontally at the frame assembly stage in a special non-flammable corrugation. Electrical wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.
Electrical wiring
Doorway arrangement
1. Mount vertically in the intended location along the width of the opening. two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. We will tell you below how to arrange an arched opening or an opening of any arbitrary curved shape.2. You can strengthen the doorway using a wooden beam or two profiles connected to each other.
To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles
Fastening drywall
1. The partition is covered with plasterboard on both sides.2. Its sheets are attached to the frame with in steps of 25 cm so that their edges are exactly in the center of the rack profile. In this case, the head of the screw for metal should be slightly buried in the sheet so that it can be hidden later under the putty.
3. Do not screw screws into the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, step back 5 cm from the edge.
Fastening drywall
4. Drywall is mounted staggered (in a checkerboard pattern) so that the joints of the sheets fall on the center of the sheet of the previous row.
Laying order of sheets
5. If sound insulation is necessary, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or any other similar material is laid between the profile posts. It is installed after one of the sides is already covered with plasterboard.
Location of the sound insulation layer
Important! You should not build partitions from this material in the bathroom. Even moisture resistant drywall Over time, it may swell and lose shape when exposed to moisture.
Drywall cutting
1. Mark the cut location on the sheet with a pencil. The mark from a ballpoint paste or felt-tip pen may be visible through the putty, so you should not use them.2. Drywall consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core. Initially follows sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and gypsum core. To do this, the sheet is laid on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and an incision is made along it. To cut the core, a knife is drawn along the cut line several times.
Cutting the first layer of cardboard
3. Then bend the cut area and break the gypsum core by lightly tapping along the cut line.
In order to break off the core, the sheet is slightly bent
Cutting through the second layer of cardboard
5. To remove defects, the cut site is processed sandpaper or rasp.
Processing cut edges
Important! Sheets that will be joined to each other at an angle must have a 45° chamfer. You can do it using a regular knife.
putty
1. The joints of the sheets and the recesses of the screws are puttied using gypsum, polymer or cement putty. If, when putting putty, the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, it should be pushed into the sheet a little deeper.
Plasterboard putty
2. To strengthen the joints of the sheets, it is laid reinforcing self-adhesive mesh. Before laying it, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then the mesh should be glued. External corners are finished profile corners or corners with reinforcing mesh.
3. If a plasterboard wall will be wallpapered or tiled, it is not necessary to use reinforcing mesh. It is only required when preparing walls for plastering or painting.
Laying reinforcing mesh along the seams
Drywall bending
When arranging semicircular, radius or arched partitions, the plasterboard needs to be bent. This can be done in two ways: dry and wet.1. When dry bending Vertical cuts are made on one side of the sheet. You can make them quickly using a grinder. Since this generates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to carry out work outside.
2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, the sheets are bent by lenght.
Dry bending
Advice. If the bending radius is not too large, you can avoid making cuts, but carefully bend the sheet during the process of attaching it to the frame.
3. Wet bending. To allow moisture to penetrate deep into the sheet, it should be rolled before wetting. needle roller.
Roller rolling
5. A damp sheet of drywall is laid on the prepared template to dry. the desired shape and securely fixed.
Wet bending
Important! For bending, you should purchase arched plasterboard, which has a smaller thickness.
Profile bending
For installation of curved structures you can purchase arched profile or make it yourself. To do this, they are made on both sides cuts every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the bending angle: the larger it is, the more often notches should be applied. To make the transition smooth, their frequency must be the same.Arched profile
You can make an arched profile yourself using cuts
Arch profile fastening
Video: DIY plasterboard partitions
Using drywall to redesign movements is an excellent choice for quality and ease of installation. And gypsum board sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of plasterboard partitions is easy to do yourself if you choose quality materials and tools to make the process easier.
Before planning and destroying old floors, you must obtain permission from the building management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment layout may affect the safety of the entire house. If the redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.
Basic material for installation plasterboard partition- these are sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is erected in a purely decorative purposes, there will be no door, and there are no shelves or other heavy parts on the sides, then the thickness of the product can be minimal.
Important! The thickness of the sheets is not selected “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and frame.
Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders highlight a number of advantages of this material:
The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. This material is used in rooms with normal humidity levels. If the partition is being made in a bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).
Types of drywall Next essential material– this is a profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used as they are not reliable enough. Most often, reinforced guides and rack profiles made of metal are used. They are different types and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.
Additional materials:
- dowels;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer;
- screws for metal;
- sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
- acrylic primer;
- putty;
- serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.
The tools required to construct the partition are marked with a separate item.
Tools needed for work
When installing a gypsum plasterboard partition, construction tools are used.
It’s better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:
This set of tools and equipment for installing a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes or additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profiles.
How to install a plasterboard partition
Before installing a plasterboard partition, you need to make sure you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Installing a partition with your own hands takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is applying markings. Never skip it, especially if you are installing such a structure for the first time.
Marking
It is necessary to begin the installation of plasterboard partitions by applying markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a construction angle.
The line must be perfectly straight, because subsequently the profile guide is attached to it:
It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with extreme precision, otherwise the structure will turn out crooked, which will lead to premature wear and impossibility of installing the door.
Frame installation
After the markings have been applied and the alignment is ensured, guide profiles are installed. First, place the part on the floor and secure it with dowels, bypassing the space for the door.
Advice! Holes for fastenings are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markings, after which the guides can be moved.
Having removed the guides, the master hammers dowel plugs into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. Then they make a final check of the markings, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.
Next, attach the rack profile along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal according to the level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal guide. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, proceed to installing the ceiling rail.
Advice! Screws must be screwed in at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.
Attaching to the ceiling is done using the same method as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, checking the floor markings with the ceiling. Measure the height of the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut out with scissors.
The vertical profile should be perfectly straight at this point.
The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden beam. They are attaching themselves to him vertical racks. Self-tapping screws are installed at the end.
If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are attached approximately every 500 - 700 mm.
Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings and calculate how many vertical posts are required. They are mounted 300-600 mm from each other. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then their ends are installed inside the guides. The process is controlled at the construction level. The profiles must be fastened with self-tapping screws with larger heads.
Electrical wiring
When the frame is completely ready, the inside is made electrical wiring. This can be done after the installation of plasterboard partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. You need to make holes in the profiles through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.
Covering the frame with plasterboard
The big stage is covering the frame with gypsum plasterboard sheets to size. It is necessary to screw drywall with visible self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fastening gypsum boards). The fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.
If the sheet sizes are too large, they are cut off:
If the sheets are cut, they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of plasterboard partitions. To make a chamfer, you can use a plane with a beveled knife.
Advice! If the partition will use elements to turn on electricity, then crowns required diameter holes are cut in the sheets. Wires are routed through them after complete installation designs.
You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Space cannot be left empty, otherwise it will lead to an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.
Door frame installation
The remaining empty doorway is processed last:
- Set by level doorjamb with hinges using larger self-tapping screws.
- The heads of the screws are deepened into the wooden posts of the box.
- The door is hung (it is advisable to choose the lightest possible material).
If problems arise due to insufficiently level installation of the profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled polyurethane foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.
Sealing seams
The final stage of installation of gypsum plasterboard partitions is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with glue applied, then installation will be faster:
After all the procedures, they move on to the stage of finishing the finished partition.
Finishing
Careful finishing is necessary to decorative materials lay flat and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy appearance will negate all the efforts of the builder.
Finishing is completed with a final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grain sandpaper.
After clearing the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait until it dries completely. Now you can paste wallpaper or other decorative elements.
Creating a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not only a simple but also a fascinating process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip steps.
Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional zones with your own hands, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.
Anatomy of a plasterboard structure
Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.
The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets
Application area
Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms various layouts and appointments. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity And special requirements to fire safety.
Advantages
Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:
- Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR differs perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
- Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
- Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
- Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, piles of construction waste and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is consumed.
Flaws
We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:
- The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
- Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
- Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.
Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.
Preparing for work
That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.
Tool
To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:
- Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
- Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
- A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
- Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
- Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.
To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool
Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.
Materials
At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:
- There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the sheathing.
- Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
- Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.
1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall
When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:
- Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures imply the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
- Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
- Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area, basalt wool, which retains heat well, will be useful.
In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:
- Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
- Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
- Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
- Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
- Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.
The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners
Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.
Measurements + consumables calculation table
To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate the required quantity. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.
- Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location of the door and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
- Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be installed in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
- Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
- Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile; the same design solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
- Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
- Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm
Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.
Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:
- guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
- guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
- rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
- plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.
The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.
Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.
| Position | Name | Unit measurements | Quantity per sq. m |
| 1 | KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO) | sq. m | 2,0 |
| 2 | KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40) | linear m | 0,7 |
| 3 | KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50) | linear m | 2,0 |
| 4 | Screw TN 25 | PC. | 29 |
| 5 | Putty KNAUF-Fugen | kg | 0,6 |
| 6 | Reinforcing tape | linear m | 1,5 |
| 7 | Dowel K 6/35 | PC. | 1,6 |
| 8 | Sealing tape | linear m | 1,2 |
| 9 | Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund | l | 0,2 |
| 10 | Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF | sq. m | 1,0 |
| 11 | KNAUF-profile PU | PC. | * |
* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.
Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.
How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions
So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.
Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.
Layout and marking
Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:
Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.
Installation of sheathing
Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:
- Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape protects the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
- We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
- We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
- We will form a doorway by installing reinforced profile posts in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
- Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
- We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
- Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.
You can insert inside the top beam of the opening wooden beam, further strengthening the structure
- We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
- If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
- Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.
At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.
Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation
In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.
Plates from mineral wool reliably retain heat and also isolate the room from extraneous noise
Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.
Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:
- Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
- We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
- Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
- Having closed one side of the frame, we lay it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts at random.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
- We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
- We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.
Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for fastening the extensions or parts custom size you'll have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.
Final chords
Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.
The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:
Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.
Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door
Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.
Recently, drywall has become a very popular material for construction. Most often it is used to create interior partitions, ceiling and wall coverings. But such structures cannot be created from drywall alone without creating load-bearing structures, assembled from special guide profiles. Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to make plasterboard partitions with your own hands.
Let's look at the most popular types of profiles for drywall.
These profiles differ, firstly, in their functional purpose:
- The guide profile (marked PN or UD) has a cross-section in the form of a channel. It is used as a basis for securing the rack profile. The width of the shelves of the guide profile is standard and is 40 mm, and the width of the backrest can be 50, 65, 75 or 100 mm. The profile is marked according to these parameters. For example, the profile PN 40-75 has a shelf of 40 mm and a back of 75 mm.
- The rack profile (marked PS or CW) looks the same, but its shelves have small bends inward at the ends and have a slightly larger width - 50 mm. It is marked similarly, i.e. profile PS 50-75 has a shelf of 50 mm and a back of 75 mm. In practice, the width of the backrest is slightly smaller than indicated. For example, for the PS 50-50 profile it is about 48.5 mm.
- Ceiling (marked PPP or CD) and ceiling guide (marked PNP or UD) are used in the manufacture of ceiling frames for plasterboard sheathing.
- To create smooth and beautiful external corners, corner profiles for plasterboard (marked PU) are used. They protect soft corners formed by plasterboard sheets from various damages.
- To create curved structures, a special arched profile is used, consisting of a solid back and shelves, divided into separate sections, allowing it to be easily bent and given smooth rounded shapes.
- The beacon profile (marked PM) is designed to align walls to a given level; it works as a stop that sets the desired level to the rule.
The length of finished profiles varies from 2750 to 6000 mm.
In addition, profiles also differ in the thickness of the metal from which they are made.
- A profile with a thickness of 0.4 mm is used only for light structures, for example, sheathing for walls or ceilings.
- The 0.45 mm thick profile has an average load-bearing capacity and is often used to create non-load-bearing partitions.
- The 0.55 mm thick profile has good load-bearing capacity and is used to create interior partitions that will be loaded, for example, with shelves.
Drywall is also divided into several types:
- GKL - ordinary plasterboard for finishing premises, produced gray with blue markings.
- GKLV is a moisture-resistant plasterboard for rooms with high humidity, available in green color with blue markings.
- GKLO - fire-resistant plasterboard for attics, electrical rooms, ventilation shafts, produced in gray color with red markings.
- GKLVO - fire-resistant and moisture-resistant plasterboard, produced in green color with red markings.
The standard thickness of drywall is 6, 9, 12.5 or 15 mm. Small thicknesses are used to form curved surfaces and create arches. For wall cladding, only 12.5 or 15 mm sheets are used.
Installation
Based on the above-mentioned characteristics of the materials, for the manufacture of the internal frame of the partition we will use a profile with a width of 75 mm and a thickness of 0.55 mm, and for cladding - gypsum plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm.
Main tools used in work:
- screwdriver;
- level;
- square;
- plumb line;
- roulette;
- stationery knife;
- metal scissors.
Installation of the guide profile
We begin work by installing the guide profile. We mark a line on the floor along which we will build the future partition. The line can be drawn using laser level or the profile itself.
When installing partitions, it is necessary to take into account that in the drawing they may have zero thickness, but in reality their thickness will be the sum of the width of the profile and the thickness of two sheets of drywall attached to it.
We fix the guide profile along the line marked on the floor. If the floor is wooden, use self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. If the floor is cement-concrete, then you need to pre-drill holes with a drill and secure dowels in them. We make fasteners at intervals of 30-40 cm.
Using the guide profile as the bottom mounting point, we install another guide profile on the wall. We make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, controlling the level or plumb line. We attach it to the walls in the same way as we attached the lower guide profile. For walls made of gas silicate blocks, dowel-nails should be used, which are also installed at intervals of 30-40 cm.
We connect the profiles at the joints with short self-tapping screws (10-15 mm).
Similarly, we fix the guide profile on the ceiling, closing the contour of the future partition.
Installation of vertical rack profiles
To install a blind partition without a doorway, we begin the installation of vertical rack profiles from one of the walls. The installation locations of the profiles are calculated depending on the width of the plasterboard sheets. Each sheet should have three vertical posts - left, center and right. For example, if the width of the sheet is 120 cm, then the racks must be positioned in increments of 60 cm. The installation of vertical profiles must be carried out so that the measured 60 cm fall in the middle of the shelf when fastened. Then the joint of the drywall sheets will be in exactly this place and they can be easily fixed.
The length of the rack profile should be 0.5-1 cm less than the height of the room. In case of possible shrinkage of the room, this distance will allow the structure to “settle.”
When connecting profiles, screw the screws first closer to the back, and then closer to the edge. If you try to do the opposite, there is a high risk of the shelf bending.
Installation of horizontal cross profiles
Short pieces are cut from the profile and installed between adjacent vertical posts, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure. The length of these sections is chosen so that they can be securely fastened to the rack profiles with short self-tapping screws.
Horizontal profiles are also placed in increments depending on the length of the plasterboard sheets, but not less than 40 cm. The edges of the sheets should fall in the middle of these profiles. In addition, horizontal profiles must be provided in places where shelves, hooks, etc. are planned to be placed. Wooden blocks should be inserted into these profiles to which the load will be attached. The size of the bars should be such that they fit tightly into the horizontal profile without distorting its shape. We attach such profiles with embedded parts to vertical posts with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.
When fixing horizontal profiles, it is necessary to check with a level or a carpenter's square that they do not distort from the horizontal level along their axis.
Electrical wiring placement
When the frame is completely assembled, electrical wiring is placed inside it. In rack profiles for these purposes, special holes are provided through which wires are passed.
Electrical wiring is placed inside the partitions in non-combustible insulation. It is recommended to check its serviceability before starting finishing works.
Fastening drywall
When the partition is completely installed, it is the turn of the drywall. Where the width and height of the partition allows, we place the sheets entirely; in other places they will have to be cut.
It is best to cut drywall using a drywall knife or a large utility knife. To do this, having marked the required shape, the knife is repeatedly drawn along the cut line, not trying to cut through it immediately, but gradually going deeper into it. There are more quick way cutting drywall, suitable for straight lines only. We notch one of the sides of the sheet according to the markings, turn it over and bend it towards ourselves along the notched line. In this case, the plaster breaks exactly along the intended line and only the cardboard on one side remains uncut. We cut this cardboard and the part is ready.
For ease of finishing work, a chamfer is formed on the cut edges of the drywall using a plane with an inclined blade. If you don’t have a plane, then a regular knife will do.
When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a small gap between them and the floor using supports 3-5 mm thick.
Next, we attach the sheet to the guides and vertical posts in increments of 15-20 cm. The self-tapping screws should be recessed 1 mm into the surface of the sheet. We check each installed sheet for horizontal level. An additional guideline for this is the vertical rack profiles.
Partition with door
When installing a partition with a doorway, we begin the installation of vertical rack profiles not from the wall, but from this opening. In the guide profile on the floor we provide a gap at the site of the future opening. We install the rack profile in the guides so that the width of the doorway at the top and bottom is the same.
When calculating the width of the opening, remember that it will contain not only door leaf, but also door frame. Its thickness also needs to be taken into account.
To increase the strength of the future doorway, it is necessary to use dry wooden blocks inserted inside the profile. To attach the rack profile with the bar to the guide, we use self-tapping screws 35 mm long.
The transverse profile delimiting the doorway from above is also strengthened wooden block. The length of this bar should be equal to the width of the doorway. After laying the bar, the transverse profile is secured to the rack profiles with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.
We connect the bars located in the racks with a bar embedded in the transverse profile using self-tapping screws or nails 120-150 mm long, forming a strong structure for future fastening of the door frame.
Having installed the profiles around the doorway, we mount the remaining rack profiles along the entire length of the partition, also starting from the doorway in accordance with the width of the drywall sheets, as described earlier.
Soundproofing of partitions
We perform sound insulation of partitions using sheets of mineral wool or any other insulation material, which is cut and placed in the formed cells between the profiles. The thickness of the insulation is chosen equal to the width of the guide profiles, in our case – 75 mm.
When installing drywall, make sure that entire sheets are installed from the middle to the edges. In this case, the trimmings will be closer to the wall, in less noticeable places.
After installing the soundproofing, we attach the drywall to the back side, covering our partition. We seal the gaps formed between the wall and the profile with polyurethane foam. This will improve sound insulation.
In order for the built partition to become suitable for final finishing, its surface needs to be puttied. The putty will hide the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws, forming a smooth surface.
Quite often in new apartments there are too many large rooms, which would be best divided into two smaller rooms. Partitions made of gypsum board help cope with this task. The hl device allows you to make an excellent partition that does not allow noise to pass through and retains heat in both newly formed rooms. Installation plaster partitions- it’s not a difficult matter, so quite often you make a plasterboard partition with your own hands. You will learn how to make a partition from plasterboard in this article. Also, you can learn about the advantages of making a plasterboard partition with your own hands, and get acquainted with the intricacies that the installation of plasterboard partitions includes with step-by-step instructions.
What is this article about?
Benefits of drywall
Before you start creating a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to answer one important question. Why is it best to use gypsum board partitions to divide a room? Why are the other options worse? The fact is that plasterboard sheets have a number of advantages over other materials.
- Installation of plasterboard partitions is very easy, because this material extremely easy to process.
- The material itself is quite light, which makes it easier to install plasterboard partitions.
- Installation of plasterboard partitions will require minimum costs time.
- Due to the low cost of the material, installing plasterboard partitions is relatively inexpensive. So you can make a partition from plasterboard with minimal financial costs.
- If you are wondering how to make a plasterboard partition as similar as possible to the rest of the walls in the house, then don’t worry. Plasterboard sheets are practically no different from main walls.
- The installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard and gypsum board allows all necessary communications to be laid directly through the frame.
- A variety of niches and designs go well with such artificial walls, therefore, the design of gypsum board partitions can be called quite flexible.
- The installation of a plasterboard partition creates much more reliable sound insulation than a conventional wall.
- Installing gypsum board partitions is a dust-free process. Of course, cutting plasterboard sheets or gypsum fiber analogues will create a lot of debris, but the installation itself does not spread dirt around the room.
To build a partition with your own hands from plasterboard, first you need to assemble a frame from metal profiles. The installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard also allows the construction wooden frame, but this, roughly speaking, is already the last century. Therefore, it is better to install a metal assembly.
Types of profiles for creating a frame
To build the frame we need, simple ceiling profiles are not suitable, since the installation of gypsum board partitions requires more durable fastening. For such structures, special guide profiles are used, which are called PN or UW. They are different sizes, but they all have the same length - three meters. They are used in exactly the same way as ceiling guides.
Rack profiles for partitions are called PS. It is important that the rack profiles have exactly the same width as the guides, otherwise it will not be possible to install the frame. It makes no sense to even try to install such profiles together in an apartment. Unlike guides, rack profiles have different lengths - from three to four meters. Other sizes are available for cases with high ceilings.
It is advisable to choose profiles that differ in sufficient width, but not if you are going to build a two-layer sheathing. Think about this before attaching the frame.
Tools and materials
In order to make a partition you will need the following.
- Guide metal profiles
- Rack metal profiles
- Tape to strengthen the fastening
- Dowel nails to secure the gypsum structure
- Cord release device
- 2 meter laser or bubble level
- Plasterboard sheets twelve and a half millimeters thick
- Serpyanka
- Hammer
- Roulette
- Stationery knife
- Screwdriver
- Hammer
- Self-tapping screws for metal
- Self-tapping screws with perss washer
- Acrylic primer
- Putty
- Metal scissors
- Spatulas
To calculate material consumption, you can use our calculator:
- Partition in 1 layer of gypsum board
- Partition with 2 layers of gypsum plasterboard
*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on the wall material, condition and shape of the room
Frame installation
Before you begin installing the frame, you need to draw up its diagram yourself in order to have a clear idea of what the structure of gypsum board partitions should be like. This is done quite easily, you just need to draw up a technical map of the frame. Routing must contain all design parameters. Internal technology The drawing up of the drawing may be different for everyone, but all important components must be present so that the structure of the gypsum board partitions is not damaged.
Next, you should mark the walls so that you can clearly see what needs to be installed where. At this stage, a laser level will help us a lot, which will allow us to draw a fairly even drawing on the walls and floor so that we can use it as a guide during repairs. Along the location of the future partition, draw identical lines on the floor, ceiling and walls, which should be in the same plane. Once you have done this, attach metal profiles along the lines that form the base of the frame. Secure them to the wall using self-tapping screws. It is better to use a screwdriver or hammer drill for this operation.
It is important to remember that the pitch between fasteners should be approximately thirty to forty centimeters. It is these profiles that you need to pay attention to in a special wall. Especially on their fastening, since these profiles form, as it were, the foundation of the entire frame, which means they serve as support for all structures and take on the bulk of the load from the weight of the partition.
Next you need to install the vertical posts. With their location there is one important nuance. The distance between them directly depends on the width plasterboard leaf. The fact is that one plasterboard sheet should be located on three racks metal profiles. Two rack profiles are located on the sides plasterboard sheet, and the third - exactly in the middle. It is very important that two sheets located next to each other rest with their edges on the same rack profile of the frame. Based on this, you need to determine the distance between them.
The installation of rack profiles can begin from any wall on which a profile that serves as the base of the frame is installed with self-tapping screws. From it you need to count sixty centimeters, half the width plasterboard leaf. These are the places where the rack profiles need to be attached to the ceiling and floor main profile.
Creating a Doorway
Any partition needs a doorway. You won't completely block off part of the room from yourself, will you? Doorway profiles experience the most intense load, so it is important to pay special attention to them. It is necessary to install the profiles with the shelf towards the opening. To give maximum strength and rigidity, you need to insert a wooden beam and secure it from the inside with self-tapping screws. The size of the beam, in this case, must fully correspond to the size of the profile, and fastenings with self-tapping screws are carried out along the side shelves.
The doorway is formed by one crossbar, which by its size determines the height of the future door. To do this, an opening in the shape of the letter P is formed from the profiles. It needs to be installed and secured with the feet up. The size of the horizontal post in this design determines the width of the doorway, and therefore the width of the door.
If you want to make an arch in the doorway, then a U-shape will not work. Approximately the same design is made, but with the appropriate configuration. You will have to bend the horizontal post. To do this you need to use metal scissors. With their help, we make cuts on the profile along the entire length. After this, it will bend easily without losing its strength.
Windows and shelves in the partition
One of the possible non-standard solutions may be installing windows in the partition. This is easy to do. The same principle is used as in the case of a doorway. You just need to install horizontal profiles between the racks according to the size of the window opening. Most easy way The best way to implement this solution is to install transverse profiles between adjacent racks, but in this case you are very limited in the size of the window. The standard width will be sixty centimeters. If you want to install more narrow window, then it will have to be between two horizontal profiles install vertical ones to reduce the width of the opening. To do this, cut pieces of profiles of the required size and install them between the cross-sections. This method will allow you to install as many windows of the desired size, thanks to which you have the opportunity to create unique design, built on small windows.
Installing shelves has some technical difficulties, which forces many to abandon this idea. Shelves are either built-in or hanging. Hanging shelves are much easier to install. They are installed in the same way as on a regular wall, but with built-in shelves everything will be much more complicated. To install them, it is necessary to change the structure of the frame. The lower part of the partition will have to be expanded, and the middle part will also need to be expanded horizontally. If you do not have sufficient funds and time, then you should not undertake such changes in the design.
Sheathing plasterboard sheets
The plating process is fairly standard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame on both sides with self-tapping screws. If this is necessary, then two layers of plasterboard sheathing are installed. In this case, the partition will provide additional benefits in the form of strength, sound insulation and thermal insulation.
Plasterboard sheets will have to be cut, and if you did not make any windows or built-in shelves, then the space will need to be left only for the door. Otherwise, you will need to trim the trim so as not to block the window opening. This is not a complicated procedure, but it has one caveat. A lot of drywall will go to waste, since the remnants of the cut sheets are unlikely to be put to good use.
That's it for installation interior partition from plasterboard sheets ends. All that remains is to putty the partition and get started design design. Here you can give free rein to your imagination or find the style you like among the examples below.
Some of the above interiors will require not only finishing, but also changes in the structure and design of the partition.
