Methodology for performing site cleanup work. Five ways to quickly and effectively develop a site How to clear the land of trees

Dear fellow summer residents!
My experience in developing twenty acres, presented in the form of an article in one of the St. Petersburg magazines. We criticize, we clarify
Philip Urban

Dedicated to the pioneers of virgin lands

The land market has been as active as never before in the last six months. This means that the percentage of transactions made in a hurry, when the future homeowner buys a “pig in a poke”, having a vague idea of ​​​​the boundaries of the site, and the nature of the soil, and how to cultivate it, has also increased. Today, when many novice homeowners find themselves face to face with their newly acquired acres, it is appropriate to talk about where to start developing the land. Specialized Internet forums show that this topic is one of the most relevant. After all, the vast majority of new sites do not at all resemble a ground lawn or a putting green.
In this regard, the editor-in-chief of Zagorodnoye Obozreniye, Philip Urban, shares his own experience of developing twenty acres, which a year ago were covered with old stumps, as well as impenetrable thickets of bushes and raspberries.

If the joy of a purchase at the sight of acres overgrown with weeds or viscous clay gives way to a headache, then it’s time to sit down at the table or on a stump and outline a plan of action. Working without a plan is unproductive and ineffective. Let's start by working on the mistakes that slow down the pace of land development.
1. The desire to do everything on our own. A trip “to the dacha” with an ax and a chainsaw in the trunk and a grueling weekend of uprooting stumps (if you don’t have enough experience, then one tree frame sticking out of the ground will take two days) can forever turn you away from the idea of ​​becoming a homeowner. Moreover, the area around St. Petersburg is full of workers from neighboring countries who will happily take on such work.
2. Trying to solve everything with money. The local forestry enterprise will be happy to tell you the amount for which local craftsmen will “smooth out” the area with a bulldozer and bring in an excavator, through which mountains of stumps, stones and other debris will be loaded into dump trucks and taken away in a direction unknown to you. I am sure that this figure (from 10-12 thousand rubles per hundred square meters) will not please you. In addition, after such a rough operation, your site may turn into a quagmire, and you will have to dig out wood remains from the ground for a long time and clear away rubble.
3. Excavation with unsuitable or low-quality tools and equipment, the pace is reduced tenfold. A dull ax and a flimsy shovel will not allow you to process even a few square meters, and a light walk-behind tractor, recommended by the sellers of a specialized store as an expensive toy, will become tightly entangled in the roots.
4. And finally, the most important thing: working without a plan is completely wasted money. They just dismantled one corner and filled up another. They forced the workers to cut out the forest, and then plant a new one...
From specialized “translated” manuals on the basics of landscape design, you can usually learn that soils are mainly “heavy” clayey and “light” sandy. The former require the addition of sand, the latter clay. At the same time, both of them also add huge amounts of organic matter. For us, these rules are not always relevant. The North-West of Russia has its own distinctive specifics: namely, we have such an irreplaceable natural resource as humus - at least export it. In Soviet times, gardeners and novice dacha owners were most often offered to develop impassable swamps rather than arable land. Today, such difficult-to-develop plots have ended up on the secondary land market. In addition, the range of land offers for private homeowners has grown with yesterday's state farm fields with soils depleted and sometimes spoiled by the uncontrolled use of chemicals, impenetrable thickets with a thickness of fallen and half-rotten trunks and huge boulders, copses, which, due to illiterate reclamation, are rapidly turning into a swamp... But nothing stops homeowner candidates.
In today’s review, we do not consider the implementation of the master plan for a cottage or dacha village: issues of land reclamation, electrification, as well as the construction of access roads are the responsibility of the development companies selling the plots, as well as the competence of the boards of gardening partnerships and the DNP. And if their activity leaves much to be desired, you will have to mobilize your neighbors and engage in social work. Let's consider the issues that have to be resolved independently, and in the near future after purchasing the land. Let's start with the boundaries of your site.

Neighbors and borders
It often happens that the emergence of new landowners stimulates the “old-timers” to revise the boundaries of the territory. When the question arises of where to put the fence, they try to win a piece of territory from you by hook or by crook. Little trick: if fence posts shifted a meter deep into your territory, and the length of the plot is fifty meters - consider that you have donated fifty meters of land. And if the plot you purchased stood abandoned for many years, and the neighbors tirelessly developed the territory, there is a high probability that they could not resist the temptation to grab a piece of “nobody’s” land. This happens all the time and sometimes leads to protracted conflicts. But starting the “development of virgin lands” with quarrels is not the best option, especially since many issues will have to be resolved jointly with neighbors one way or another. And in most cases, the conflict can easily be resolved through civilized means.
Let us remind you that to carry out the purchase and sale transaction of a plot, your predecessors collected many documents, the main one of which is a certificate of assignment of a cadastral number. A cadastre is a document that unambiguously defines a site: its area, category, boundaries. And if you purchased a plot, it means that it already has a cadastral number. This also means that the boundaries of the territory were agreed upon with your neighbors, and there is documentary evidence of this in the land surveying business: they either signed the protocol for the approval of boundaries themselves, or (if they avoided this in every possible way) were notified of the upcoming procedure by telegram. Thus, in order to determine the real boundaries of your territory, it is enough to invite the surveyors who formed the case to put up boundary signs that correspond to the previously completed cadastral survey. This service is paid; on average, installing one boundary sign costs 500 rubles, and in the simplest case, if the site is a quadrangle, four of them are needed.
If you were told that the pegs have already been installed, this should not mislead you, because rearranging them after the specialists leave the site is a favorite pastime of some not entirely decent citizens. However, we should not immediately blame our neighbors for “theft”; our task is to try to avoid conflicts. Make it clear that an area with incorrect boundaries is a source of legal problems primarily for them.
So, the boundaries of your territory are known. We are not putting up a fence yet; it will only get in the way when dismantling perennial rubble and windbreaks; we mark the boundaries with pegs and ropes.

On solid ground
Many publications dedicated to “developing virgin soil” with your own hands recommend planning the site yourself or with the help of an invited landscape architect. Today we will not discuss the nuances of various planning solutions, especially since this is a creative matter and many manuals on landscape design are devoted to this issue. Let's note some nuances. Firstly, the natural “disadvantages” of the landscape when the right approach can always be turned into advantages: it is better to preserve beautiful strong trees if possible (you will have time to cut them down), a heavy boulder and an embankment formed after reclamation (simply laying ditches) can become part of landscape compositions, and a swampy hole with a barely noticeable stream bed - after clearing turn into a flowing pond. Secondly, in addition to the landscape design (obviously, it will probably change during the work), it is important to create a scenario for its implementation, as well as prepare a solid springboard - the zero cycle.
Before the beginning " spring cleaning“You should look at your own sketch design of the landscape to determine the place of entry to the site and the area where garbage will be stored for removal (large stumps, stones, household waste). Convenient access must be provided to it. If the site is separated from the road by a drainage ditch, development will have to begin with the construction of a crossing ( concrete pipe at least four meters long, which is filled sand and gravel mixture or broken bricks) and clearing the area directly behind the entrance. This start will significantly facilitate further landscaping and construction work, parking, loading and unloading cars, and storage of building materials. If there is a hole behind the ditch, it should be filled up. Most best material in order to eliminate large gaps, craters, and also raise low areas of the territory - broken bricks and construction waste. Some construction companies specializing in demolition give it away for free - you only have to pay for transportation. On top of the newly created solid soil, a sand cushion, which is covered with geotextiles, a fertile soil layer - and you can lay out a lawn. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves just yet.

Eastern excavator
So, as we have already noted, most of the areas being developed for the first time in Leningrad region are peat swamps, or marshy and humus-rich areas covered with lush wild vegetation. This is exactly the case when the development of the territory will require painstaking manual labor, but the earth will certainly reward you for your hard work.
Let's start with cleaning up the territory and immediately note for beginners that it is unlikely that it will be possible to limit ourselves to one Saturday and a picnic with the invitation of family and friends: the “cleanup” will most likely last for weeks and months and will end with the involvement of “randomly passing by” handymen from the neighboring southern republics.
You will have to get rid of thickets of bushes and small trees, perennial layers of dry plant debris, stumps and stumps. We cut off thin trees with a lopper with long handles, those that are thicker are cut with a chainsaw and cut down with a sharp ax, but not at the root, but approximately to the waist (to make it easier to uproot). This kind of work is easy to do yourself. Do not throw away straight tree trunks and thin branches of bushes, but immediately put them aside: they will be useful for weaving small retaining walls on the terrain and strengthening the edges of drainage ditches.
It is better to invite migrant workers to remove stumps. In this case, your hands and head will be free for more intellectual, but no less important work. If you do not have experience collaborating with workers from neighboring countries, keep the following in mind. Our eastern neighbors have a mathematical mindset, and if you, instead of identifying a specific area of ​​work, with a vague gesture outline a clearing to which, in your opinion, they should put their efforts, be prepared for the fact that they will zealously get to work and cut out a small fragment , and then they will say “Boss, we need to add more”... In order not to waste money, it is better to divide the territory into squares (about a hundred square meters in size), marking the boundaries of each with ropes and pegs. When negotiating the cleaning of each fragment, you should clearly explain to the senior (the one with whom the price is usually negotiated) what results you expect. That is, indicate the place where large trunks, stumps, stones, and dead wood should ultimately be stacked. And which trees should remain in the treated area after the work is completed (mark them with a piece of rope). If you agree on a price, rest assured: everything will be done carefully and on time. Depending on the complexity of the work, processing one hundred square meters of land with an “eastern excavator” will cost you from two (remove dead wood, bushes, uproot two or three stumps) to six thousand rubles (large stumps, dismantling rubble, moving large earthen masses).

From ditch to lawn
We continue cleaning. Do not rush to burn dry grass, roots and dried raspberries. Firstly, as we have already noted, humus is irreplaceable natural resource and to exterminate it at a time when some agriculturally enlightened countries are ready to buy fir cones and sawdust from us is simply uncivilized. And it’s dangerous: just one spark is enough for a long-term carpet to turn into a conflagration that extends far beyond the borders of your property. If the site is already electrified, the main assistant on at this stage will become garden shredder waste with electric drive (there are also petrol ones, but they are more expensive). I can admit that for many years I could not understand the purpose of this device, which grinds bark and branches. But this year, when the pile of dead wood collected on the site reached almost two meters in height, I realized that its purchase would pay for itself very quickly: transporting this volume in a dump truck to the nearest pit would have cost a little less.
Now our task is to turn the surface into a lawn, but not for golf or recreation, but “technical”. There is no point in postponing its breakdown. Because humus-rich soil, freed from mulch of fallen leaves, pine needles and raspberries, will give a rich harvest of weeds.
Translated bestsellers for gardeners and landowners who want to create a lawn recommend removing upper layer soil, put it in the yard until better times and start preparing the subsoil layer: bring a truck or two of soil, make drainage... Let's say right away: this is not for us, Russian landowners, but for European gardens of fifty meters in size. We will need a heavy (at least 50 kg) walk-behind tractor with cutters for cultivating the soil, shovels and rakes (preferably not metal ones, but “peasant” ones, with wooden teeth).
More than one serious book is devoted to how to make a “correct” lawn, and you can buy mixtures of cereal seeds in any supermarket. We will not go into the details of “lawn construction”; we will only note that at this stage we are interested in the most unpretentious and drought-resistant grass mixtures, the task of which is to create a dense layer of turf and not give weeds a chance.
We continue to prepare the area for a technical lawn using the same fragments as we once determined the work fronts for uprooting. Moreover, if your plans are not to leave some of the work for later, but to develop the entire area, we begin plowing from the far corners. We send half-decomposed rot from the surface of the soil to a compost heap, which we spill special means to speed up the maturation of compost (there are many of them on sale, but not all of them are of high quality: ask your more experienced neighbors about which ones are better). We go through the selected fragment with a cultivator, without trying to dig deeply, but we try to pull out all the roots if possible. The second stage is to plow the ground more deeply.
The prepared soil must be leveled so that there are no holes in which water collects or hummocks. Oily forest black soil should be diluted with sand. There is no need to strive for a completely horizontal surface, but it is necessary to ensure a slope towards the drainage ditches. Before you start sowing grass, the soil should be left fallow for two to three weeks to get rid of “awakened” weeds. However, by the time you plow the last fragment, the first ones will already be ready for sowing, and you will have time to read a lot of specialized literature. The most favorable moment for sowing winter grasses will come at the beginning of autumn, and if you manage to complete all the indicated chores by September, there is a chance that the young grass will go under the snow with a stronger root system and in winter you will have time to think about the layout of the future garden.

There are no identical areas and no universal recipes for everyone. However, in conclusion - a few more general advice. Firstly, at the very beginning of the development of the site, you should invite a geologist who will manually drill several wells in different angles plot and give recommendations on the construction of a well and septic tank (the price of this is extremely useful service- approximately 5 thousand rubles). After talking with this specialist, you will get a lot of interesting and useful information about the nature of the soil, the quality of the soil, the level of occurrence groundwater. It is possible that this information will require significant adjustments in the landscape project you have developed, but it will definitely help you decide on the design garden paths and building foundations.
Secondly, attention should be paid drainage ditch, separating your property from the road. In new dacha areas and gardens, they are usually deepened with an excavator, filling the roads with excavated soil. As a result of such not very competent work, the ditch acquires steep edges, which erode and crumble, eating up your meters and acres. In order for the gardening board not to rob you of your own money (usually reclamation is paid for through contributions), you need to take the initiative to maintain the ditch running along your site into your own hands. If it is already too wide, you should narrow its channel by building a retaining wall along its middle. This could be a low wattle fence made from vines that we prepared when cutting young wood, slate fragments, or antiseptic-treated slabs and lumber trimmings (waste from the nearest sawmill is suitable). Carefully fill the void between the edge and the retaining wall, forming a slope of 45 0, with all unnecessary natural materials, which were found on the site, with sand, stones, soil taken out of the pond, and a rammer. When the ditches surrounding your property are in the channel you want, you can sow grass to strengthen the banks. However, if by the time you purchase the plot the ditch has already turned into a ravine, it will take more than one year to return the territory in this way: you will have to move the retaining wall several times, add soil and sow grass.
Thirdly, if there are wood processing industries nearby, a garden waste shredder can be a very profitable purchase. Ground pine bark, which is thrown away by woodworkers, is an excellent material for mulching tree trunk areas, sprinkling paths and those parts of the area where, in your opinion, grass should not grow.
And one last thing. If in today’s lengthy text we haven’t mentioned lawn mowers at all, this does not mean that the grass that we sowed abundantly all summer in an effort to cultivate virgin soil does not need to be mowed. Simply, since we are not talking about ground floors, but only about technical lawns that do not require an ideal surface, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a gas or electric trimmer. This tool is the best tool in the fight against weeds, which encroach on virgin land from all sides, and the purchase of a lawn mower can be postponed until next year.

When purchasing an untouched plot overgrown with tall, coarse grass and young trees, the owners are faced with a big “headache” - how to properly prepare it for planting, where to start, how to get rid of weeds, level and cultivate, without spending extra money. The easiest way is to order site preparation from a specialized office. However, this will cost a lot of money. Preparing a site is not an easy task. But the more carefully you handle this task now, the easier it will be to cultivate the land in the future.In this article we will try to figure out how to put the site in order on our own.

Clearing

The first step is to clear the site of construction and household debris, stones, chips and branches. The land also needs to be cleared of excess trees and shrubs, young growth and large weeds with fruits.

All garbage is carefully selected and stored in a garbage heap. It is not recommended to bury even small debris in the ground. In the future, it will interfere with the development of the root system of cultivated plants and can damage garden equipment during operation.

Weed control

The next stage is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming - it is necessary to clear the area of ​​weeds. We will pay special attention to him.

Most often, new owners use a motor cultivator for this purpose, cutting off turf and weeds and embedding them into the soil. After which they immediately begin planting. At the same time, without thinking about the fact that the cultivator itself provokes the growth of new weeds, cutting the roots of the old grass into hundreds of small pieces, from which new weeds will soon grow. In addition, many pests remain in uncultivated land, against which a motor cultivator is simply useless.

If the area allocated for beds or lawn is covered with perennial grass, bayonet shovel remove a layer of turf 4-5 cm thick from it. This removes most of the roots of weeds. The turf can be laid in layers in a separate pile with the roots facing up and covered with a dark film. Next year it will turn into fertile soil, quite suitable for use.

Application of herbicides

When cleaning heavily overgrown areas, you cannot do without the help of herbicides. For this purpose, choose universal, quickly decomposing drugs without toxic residues, such as Roundup or Reglon. When using herbicides, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Treatment is carried out in calm, windless weather, preferably during the period of active weed growth (late spring - early summer).

Weeds begin to die approximately 1-2 weeks after treatment, after which they must be piled up and burned.

If necessary, re-treat with herbicides, but not earlier than after a month and a half, so that the weeds have time to rise a few centimeters from the ground.

After applying herbicides, planting of cultivated plants begins only after 6-8 weeks, carefully weeding out weeds that sprout during this time.

Digging up the soil

The next stage is loosening and digging the earth.

The soil is loosened with a pitchfork, simultaneously removing remaining stones, large roots and other previously unnoticed debris.

They dig up the earth with a shovel, turning over and breaking clods of earth, and add as much rotted organic matter as possible (about a bucket of compost or manure per 1 sq. m of soil).

It is enough to dig up good soil (from a vegetable garden or flower garden) to the depth of one spade bayonet. If the area has not been processed for a very long time or has not been processed at all, a two-tier digging will be required:

When clay soils or poor drainage, during a two-tier digging of the earth, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured onto the lower level.

Leveling the area

They walk through the dug up area with a rake, selecting old roots, debris and stones. The site is inspected from all sides, trying to ensure that the ground level is approximately the same everywhere.

The soil from the hills is transferred to the lowlands, remembering that after the land settles, all irregularities may appear again.

They also carefully ensure that the top fertile layer of soil does not mix with the bottom.

And if there is a lack of fertile soil (the layer must be at least 20 cm), it is purchased at the store and mixed with what is already available.

Fertilizer

The leveled area is trampled down in small steps or compacted with a special roller for lawns. Then they go over the surface with a rake, evenly introducing and covering the granules of universal fertilizer and removing the remains of weeds and roots.

Properly prepared soil before planting should look like a pie sprinkled with sand crumbs, remaining quite dense inside.

Steam

The land prepared in this way is best left fallow for one to two months. During this time, birds, frogs and other beneficial animals will destroy all the main pests of the future site. In order to make their task easier, you can periodically turn the soil with a pitchfork, thus raising garden pests to the surface. At the same time, sprouted weeds are removed using a hoe or by hand. During the period when the land is fallow, the acidity of the soil is adjusted if necessary.

This completes the soil preparation.

Afterwards it will remain in last time loosen the area with a rake and begin the planned plantings.

It is not always the case that the owners get the plots in excellent condition with the beds dug up and trimmed. Basically, the new owner simply gets a plot overgrown with weeds and weeds with fruit trees and bushes that had gone wild and began to bear completely different large and juicy fruits than they had previously produced in a well-groomed state. However, sometimes a plot of land is inherited from grandparents, or it is simply forgotten about for a while, during which time it becomes overgrown with weeds and thickets of grass as tall as a man. Of course, it is impossible to plant anything in such an area without first clearing it. The first task facing the owner of the site is to clear the territory and prepare it for the next season.

In general, smart and zealous gardeners have long come up with many ways that allow them to quickly and efficiently develop virgin soil in order to use the land for their needs. After all, land that has rested for several years and is overgrown with weeds is excellent for any planting, since it has accumulated all the necessary nutrients. All that remains is to bring it into proper condition and begin to implement your plan. But this sounds simple only in words. In fact, this is a huge amount of work that requires a lot of effort and time. But the result is worth it.

In general, all methods of developing virgin soil can be divided into those that allow you to plant some plants in the first season after processing and those that do not allow you to do this.

Radical changes

This method is considered quite simple in concept and labor-intensive in execution. In the process of clearing a site from thickets, it is necessary to remove the top layer of earth, called turf, in which numerous roots are intertwined. The cut layers are placed in a designated area with the roots facing up and covered with material that does not transmit light. Periodically, this pile should be treated with urea so that after a few years it turns into excellent compost.

As for the soil itself, a new layer of soil is poured on top of the cleared soil, which is ordered on several machines. The main thing is to know the origin of the soil and its quality. Otherwise, you risk wasting money and getting a new layer of soil rich in weeds and pathogens and even pests.

The simpler the better

The first method is relatively easier, since it involves digging up the area manually without removing the weed roots. Another thing is that with this method you will not be able to sow a lot of things on the site for a long time. Cabbage and potatoes will come to the rescue. Cabbage is planted as seedlings, but as it grows it will bring powerful shade from its leaves, just like cabbage. This shade will cover the ground and begin to suppress weed growth. In addition, you will need to periodically hill up the beds, which will also help destroy weeds.

For greater effect, you can mulch between rows with grass clippings, manure or compost.

Useful waste paper

This one is very original way It will work if you follow the instructions carefully. To make it a reality, you will need rotted manure (you can use chicken manure, compost or humus). This composition must be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the developed area and covered on top with black and white newspaper 5-7 layers thick. If you find this difficult, you can replace the newspaper with thick cardboard. Compost mixed with manure is poured onto the paper layer on top.

The advantage of this method is that you can make holes in newspapers in which you can plant any crops grown through seedlings. This is perfect for those who don’t want to wait a long time, being content with only potatoes and cabbage. At the end of the season except great harvest grown crops, you will also receive a clean area, with soil enriched with vitamins and microelements.

Black bedspread

Black film - pretty known method getting rid of weeds. You can cover the entire area with it, so that under the hot summer sun a real hell will be created for all living plants. No weed can survive the absence sun rays and this steam room, so by the end of the season you can remove the film, dig up the ground and feel like a winner. Alas, with this method there is no talk of any plantings this season.

Green manure comes to the rescue (video - site planning)

Many nice words have been said about green manure plants, which have a lot of benefits. Including during the development of the site. Among all the crops in this series, there are three that will cope with the task better than others.

Winter rye is the first of these three helper crops that will rid the area of ​​weeds. Rye itself perfectly suppresses the growth of other plants, and winter rye is used for a reason. Rye seeds are planted in spring instead of autumn. Thus, the gardener deceives the plant, which will not be able to bloom during the season and will not form an ear.

You can enhance the effect if you cut wheat several times a season without damaging the growing part of the plant. In the spring of the next season, the rye will go into the ground, and in its place you can plant potatoes or other crops, depending on how overgrown your area is.

Sunflower - much more easy job for a summer resident, but at the same time no less ruthless in relation to weeds. In early May, its seeds are planted in the ground after digging as thick as possible. When the seedlings emerge from the ground, other plants simply have no chance to survive under such pressure.

At the beginning of autumn, sunflowers can be mowed and chopped into pieces of twenty centimeters, and then thrown into the soil. During the fall, these parts will decompose and well fertilize the ground, preparing it for planting new crops next season.

Bush beans are not only effective, but also delicious. You just need to sow it thicker than is usually prescribed for it. A distance of 5-10 cm is maintained between plants, and 20-30 cm between rows. During the first month, you will still have to weed between the plants, and then the beans will cover the entire bed with their leaves, and in this shade it is unlikely that anything will be able to grow. When the season comes to an end, the tops of the beans will go into compost, and you should go through the area with a hoe to remove the most tenacious weeds.

As you can see, the methods are very different in nature. You can choose any of them, depending on whether you are in a hurry to plant something on your site or are ready to wait for time and the sun to do their job. In any case, if you take up this task and bring it to the end, you can then enjoy the pleasures of working on your weed-free plot.

Any construction begins with clearing and land plot. This allows for organized construction to begin without delay. In order to efficiently clear the construction site, it is recommended to choose dry and calm weather.

This process is quite labor intensive and may take from 2 to 5 days of work. It all depends on the neglect of the site and its size. Clearing of the site is carried out within the framework of a common private house, mainly on our own.

All work begins with proper planning:

1. Compose detailed diagram site, taking into account its unevenness, hills, and holes.
2. Decide on the boundaries of the site so as not to cultivate someone else's territory.
3. Carefully inspect the area and decide on the scope of the upcoming work.

Make a detailed list of all upcoming works. Decide who will do what. This will help you organize your work process wisely and save time on cleaning it up.

Before you start planning the site, draw on paper how you see it. Don't forget to consult with your family. After you've thought it through house location, landscape design, place to build a house and other buildings, you can proceed directly to clearing.

Preparatory work for clearing a site for building a house includes:

• collection of garbage and various waste;
• clearing the area of ​​stones and large boulders;
• removing small bushes and mowing grass;
• cutting down dry stands;
• clearing the area of ​​stumps;
• demolition of old buildings;
• marking and planning a site for new development;
• delivery of black soil.

Properly planned clearing of the site and compliance with the stages of work will help bring the site to the required level appearance within operational time frames.

Attention: do not rush to get rid of all the trees on the site at once; they may be useful to you when building a house. Cut them down, clear them of small branches and put them in one place.

Also, you should not remove all cut branches. They can be burned on the site, and the ash can then be used as fertilizer in the garden plot.

What you may need when clearing

You will not be able to completely free the area from stumps, bushes, grass and debris with your own hands. To do this, you need to prepare at least minimal amount tools:

• an ax for cutting trees and bushes;
• shovel;
• winch;
• brush cutter;
• cultivator;
• chainsaw;
• rope.

It is unlikely that you will be able to do it without special equipment. Especially if there are old buildings on the site that need to be disposed of.

In some individual cases for clearing areas cranes, excavators, loaders, tractors and bulldozers are involved.

Using special equipment, the pace of all work significantly accelerates I.

Procedure and features of work

It is necessary to begin work on the site with its cosmetic cleaning. First of all, remove stones, branches, construction or household waste.

After clearing the area, you can build. At this stage, you will need to think through everything down to the smallest detail, where you will place the entrance to the site, and how equipment will enter it in the future.

What to consider when using “chemistry”

You can remove weeds from your area using chemicals . Spraying grass with herbicides is considered the most popular and effective method weed control. It is necessary to apply the product using a spray bottle on leaves and stems. Later short term, 2-3 weeks, the toxic substances in the chemicals will completely destroy the vegetation.

Important!

Modern weed control chemicals are safe. 2-3 months after treating the grass, cultivated plants can be planted on the site.

Legal cutting down of trees

Even at the initial stage of marking the acquired plot, the owner must decide whether he will completely get rid of trees. After all, for competent organization a playground or a recreation area, a couple of trees can be left for shading. By the way, bring down the high and big trees It’s not worth it on your own, it’s better to turn to specialists.

Please note: cutting down trees on your own property may require a permit, do not break the law.

To avoid accusations of illegal tree felling, contact your local administration to the landscaping department for advice on this issue.

Deforestation on your own land is the responsibility of the constituent entities of the Russian Federation and regulated by local regulations , everywhere is different.

This applies to individual housing construction lands, and if the trees are on personal plots country and garden plots, then you can cut them down without permission - according to the law (resolution of the Supreme Court of the Russian Federation dated November 5, 1998 No. 14) this will not constitute an environmental crime.

You can uproot stumps on your property in a variety of ways.

Method 1

Moisten the soil around the stump. Dig around the entire circumference of the stump to a depth of at least 30 cm, and then trim the roots with a chainsaw. After this, shake the stump and remove it.

Roots fruit trees grow at a great distance from the tree.

Method 2

Drill several deep notches in the cut and fill them with saltpeter solution. In a year, the stump can be burned down easily and quickly. Since saltpeter will completely saturate the wood and make it flammable. But this option is suitable only for those who are in no hurry with construction.

Method 3

Although this method is used extremely rarely, it is still worth mentioning. Plant honey mushrooms on the cut and harvest. In a few years, the mushrooms will deplete the wood so much that the stump will turn into dust and removing it from the site will not be difficult.