In order to quickly and with minimal costs To repair the façade of a building, we choose a material whose installation can be done without the involvement of specialists. This material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.
The choice of such material for wall cladding is supported by its positive characteristics.
- Environmental safety: siding is chemically resistant, does not emit harmful substances and environment substances.
- Fire safety. Wood siding treated with fire retardants, vinyl does not support combustion.
- Resistant to fungi, mold and rot. Antiseptic treatment increases the service life of wood siding.
- Siding is not afraid of temperature changes and does not deform if installed correctly.
- Aesthetic appeal: siding successfully imitates wooden frame. After cladding, the walls become perfectly smooth. You can hide behind the panels electrical cables, water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that matches other objects located in the garden area.
Manufacturers offer siding various colors and sizes
What is needed to cover walls with siding?
The following types of siding are distinguished:
- vinyl;
- metal;
- fiber cement;
- wood.
All of the listed materials are attached to the sheathing, mounted from wooden slats or metal profiles.
Advice: it is better to choose for lathing installation metallic profile. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. This profile is easier to mount to the wall.
If the choice of material for sheathing is wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:
- cyanosis;
- curvature;
- traces of damage by insects;
- rottenness;
- material delamination and cracks.
Before installation wooden slats treated with an antiseptic.
In order to hide all the unevenness of the base, the sheathing is attached at some distance from it, using hangers.
Installation of sheathing
Lathing made of metal profiles
The technology provides the following actions.
- Let's prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle the façade finishing elements that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the sheathing is attached to a solid base.
- We apply markings to the base at the points where the vertical sheathing elements are attached.
- The hangers are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
- Installation of vertical guides after marking. Vertical wooden slats or metal profiles are screwed to the hangers with self-tapping screws. We install the lathing with an installation step of 0.5 m.
Scheme of lathing from wooden slats
Guides are installed subject to the rules.
- Installation begins from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for installing the corner profile.
- The position of the guides is controlled by a level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
- Near the corners of window and doorways, as well as arches and niches, a guide is also installed.
- We additionally install guides for gutters.
Fastening the rail to hangers
Here's a video about how walls are insulated.
Installing a starting profile for siding installation
In order to secure the lower panels, we mount jprofiles (starting). They must be positioned strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is being carried out in stages.
The starting profile is attached to the vertical guides
- We determine the horizontal line from which the installation of panels will begin. We set aside 5 cm from it and put a mark with a marker on the vertical guide.
- Using a building level, we make the appropriate marks on all corners of the house.
- We stretch the cord between the marks and make marks along the entire perimeter of the house.
- On the vertical guides we mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, we temporarily install the profile at the mounting location and outline its boundaries with a marker.
- We set aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
- Adhering to the designated boundaries, we attach the starting profile to vertical elements frame.
Installation of starting and corner profiles
Attention: to avoid deformation of the profiles as a result of temperature changes, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.
Installation of corner profiles
The work is performed in the following order.
- We determine the level of fastening of the roofing sheathing (soffits). This is necessary to indicate the upper limit of the corner profiles.
- Stepping down from the 3 mm line marked with a marker, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guides with self-tapping screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
- Using a level or plumb line, we correct the position of the corner profiles: it must be strictly vertical. We screw the screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
- We extend the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile overlaps it with an overlap of 25 mm. Trimming is done with metal scissors.
Extension of corner profile
Tip: for economic reasons, the corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. Loss of tightness is eliminated using a roll of insulating material, which is glued in the corner.
We install internal corner profiles in the same way as external elements. We screw in the screws in increments of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (at the edges).
How openings are framed with siding
Openings in the same plane as the facade are designed in compliance with the following technology.
- Waterproofing material is laid.
- We install frames of openings using j-profiles.
- We connect profiles.
Design of openings
To ensure that the corners of the openings are designed with high quality, we do the following.
- Cut off all sides of the top profiles vertical sections so that they stay horizontal sections(per profile width).
- We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
- We cut off sections of plastic on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with the connection with the platband or window frame.
- Connecting profiles.
The connection of profiles with casing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is carried out in a similar way.
It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using a starting profile
If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques when designing them. It is important that the folding bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.
Advice: it is recommended to decorate the slopes of windows, deepened by no more than 200 mm, using window strips.
Siding installation technology
Rules for installing the first siding panel
Using the advice of siding experts, we begin work by covering the wall that is most hidden from view. This is necessary to learn how to fasten the material correctly and avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.
Installation diagram of the first panel
- We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is secured with a gap of 6 mm.
- The gap size may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation 6 mm is sufficient, in winter a distance of at least 9 mm is required.
Continue installation of siding
We install the rest of the siding in the same way as the first panel. In doing so, we comply with the following rules.
- Periodically, using a level, we check the position of the panels: it must be strictly horizontal.
- Trimming extra areas when facing walls with openings.
- We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
- We install the finishing strip at the bottom of the opening, lying in the same plane as the wall.
We install the panels from bottom to top, controlling their horizontalness
How to splice siding panels
In the event that it is necessary to use siding scraps for cladding less critical walls, we build up the panels using any of the methods indicated below.
Options for splicing siding panels
- We use an H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them with a common connecting H-profile. When installing siding panels into the groove, leave a minimum compensation gap of 6 mm.
- We overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut the panel fragments (fastening frames and locks) so that when two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.
It is advisable to join the panels on an inconspicuous area of the wall.
Installation of siding panels under the roof
Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of designing the edge of a panel cut to the width. The top panel is installed using the technology described below.
Installation of the top panel under the roof
- We attach the j-profile horizontally to the roofing sheathing with the groove down.
- We measure the distance from the key groove of the reinforced penultimate panel to the top of the j-profile.
- Subtract 2 mm from the result obtained.
- According to the final size, we cut the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
- To ensure that the cut edge of the siding holds well in the groove of the j-profile, we cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
- We install the prepared panel into the lock of the lower element and, slightly bending it, insert it into the upper profile.
Facing the gable with siding
We install the pediment according to the following algorithm.
- We attach the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also decorated with siding or vinyl soffits, in the upper part of the gable the starting or j-profile can be replaced with a corner one.
- By trimming the left and right edges of the panels at an angle to match the angle roof slopes, we install them using the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We follow the rule regulating the size of compensation gaps.
- We fix the top of the last (top) panel using a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the self-tapping screw with a plastic plug, selected by color.
Panel installation diagram for finishing the pediment
General rules for installing siding
Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules during installation.
- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the holes of the fastening strips.
- Do not tighten the screws tightly so as not to deform the panel and maintain the ability to compensate for thermal expansion.
- The panels are mounted from bottom to top.
- A compensation gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent temperature deformations.
- To fasten wood siding, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood rotting.
- Cladding the walls of newly constructed buildings is carried out after they have settled.
Here's a visual demonstration technological process— video on how to install vinyl siding using expert advice.
One of the most reliable building materials to protect everything construction site siding protects against any external influences. However, no matter what qualities this material has, if the installation of siding is not carried out according to technology, then it protective properties may be reduced to zero. And, despite the fact that this material, by its structure, should protect the structure from atmospheric precipitation, impact ultraviolet radiation, noise and other unfavorable phenomena, the slightest violation during installation leads to penetration harmful substances inside the premises.
In this article we will talk about installing siding with our own hands, give detailed instructions for dummies, and also accompany all photos and video materials.
To cover any building with siding, you need tools and some equipment. First of all, these are screws and nails.
For cutting and fastening you will need a hammer, a level, a tape measure, a plumb bob, a square, hammer drill pliers, a hacksaw and a circular saw with fine teeth. If we are talking about installing metal siding, then you also need to purchase metal scissors to trim the panels in the corners. When installing vinyl siding, a sharpened ordinary knife is used for cutting in the transverse direction, and for cross cutting - circular saw. To protect your eyes, experts recommend wearing safety glasses.
Instructions
Below we will describe the work processes for laying vinyl siding step by step. Following simple tips and recommendations, you can do this work without being a specialist.
The first stage is the correct cutting of the material in order to use it as economically as possible and avoid mistakes when laying out the panels. To do this, make a plan (drawing) that allows you to correctly distribute the material over the entire surface to be laid.
Base for siding
Before installation of the panels begins, sheathing is installed on the façade of the building. This is done in all cases, except when they are faced with panels. wooden building. For the manufacture of sheathing, wooden blocks, edged boards, and metal profiles are used.
The effectiveness of installation depends on the correctness and thoroughness with which the sheathing will be filled, that is, how strong the resulting base will be.
Yes, installation basement siding(as, indeed, any other) will be carried out correctly if all the unevenness of the wall or sheathing is smoothed out. The fact is that in the final version, the siding will only highlight all the irregularities and flaws in the preparation. For best quality works horizontal cladding panels are made on a horizontal sheathing, and vertical installation is carried out on a vertical one, respectively.
If the cladding is carried out using insulation, then it is recommended to use roll insulation as a thermal insulation material, and the use of loose materials contributes to surface deformation.
The basic rule that the installation instructions require is the formation of a gap between the panels, since siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, and if this condition is not met, the facade may swell and warp. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails through appropriate rectangular slots.
The nails should not be driven very tightly into the middle of the holes, in which case the fastening of the panels will be strong and reliable. Installation by driving nails directly into the panels will destroy them and is therefore not recommended.
After securing the panels, they should “move” freely in the horizontal direction. Installation is carried out with an overlap of approximately 25-30 millimeters.
To begin with, all panels must be left outside for two to three hours so that they “get used” to outside temperature. When installing siding in cold winter months, the gap between the panels must be increased at least twice, that is, it should be about 10 millimeters. In this case, the linear expansion coefficient of the siding will be maintained, and the panels will create a durable and reliable protection buildings and structures.
The first step required by the instructions is to install the initial elements. These are starting profiles, internal and external corners, and special J-profiles. After which you can begin the actual installation of siding.
The starting profile is the element that begins the laying of all panels, and to which all other panels are attached. For fastening panels in hard to reach places For example, at the junctions of cornices with walls, along the perimeter of window and door openings, J-profiles are used. With the help of this profile, facades can be given any, even the most bizarre, look, since it allows fastening taking into account all design features structures. Another element used to improve facades is the finishing strip. The facades in the top row are sheathed with it, thanks to which the surface looks smooth and neat.
When fastening panels in a vertical direction on the external corners of a building, the installation technology involves finishing with the so-called external corners, this allows for a neat appearance of the corner joints.
The inner corner plays the same role, only it provides carefully disguised joints internal corners buildings.
Siding
The paneling begins from those places where the maximum load is expected to be applied to them. These are doors, gates, window openings etc. This allows all other connections to be isolated from these places. All regular siding panels are attached using a lock joint. That is, the lower lock of the previous panel (upper) should be fastened to top lock subsequent panel (bottom). Vertically, the cladding is overlapped, thus having the ability to adjust the size of the sections, both in height and width.
Basement siding
The work of installing basement siding is not difficult, so you can easily do it yourself. First you need to carry out preparatory work. The final result depends on their quality.
Standard size plinth panel is 500×1200 mm. Their fastening is carried out in the same way as regular siding on the sheathing. Other sizes may also be available, for example, 220x3000 mm. Such dimensions require the installation of exclusively vertical sheathing.
In some cases, decisions are made to cover the entire facade of the house with basement siding. Additionally, the wall can be insulated.
The principle of making the frame is as follows:
- The sheathing for the plinth is best made from a metal profile. Wooden beam in close range dampness may accumulate from the ground, as a result of which it will become unusable.
- Based climatic conditions, you independently determine the height of the base. If you live in an area where the ground freezes heavily, then the sheathing should be raised from the ground level by 150 mm. If it does not freeze, then you can begin installation directly on it.
- When making the sheathing, both horizontal and vertical guides should be installed. So, the pitch between vertical ones is 900 mm, and between horizontal ones is 450 mm.
When assembling the sheathing frame, be sure to use a level. Otherwise, the installation of basement siding will not proceed smoothly.
When the sheathing is completed, you can begin installing the basement siding. The work is the following sequence:
- The starting bar is mounted horizontally.
- Internal/corner elements are installed at the corners.
- For fastening, self-tapping screws with a press washer 4–5 cm long are used.
- There should be a gap of up to 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. This play will allow the panel to move without difficulty when expanding.
- At the joints in the corner of the building it should also be left thermal clearances up to 10 mm. To make them invisible, they need to be covered with a trim corner.
- Siding installation begins on the left side. So, if there is an imitation on it natural stone or brick, the panel must be trimmed on the left side so that a smooth edge is obtained. After this, the cut edge is inserted into the trim corner and placed on the starting profile. Each subsequent panel fits strictly into the groove. When it comes to the opposite corner, the right edge of the element is also trimmed and inserted into the trim corner.
To increase the thermal insulation qualities of the house, siding can be installed with insulation. Let's look at the features of façade insulation using an example: wooden house. By installing siding with insulation, you can achieve 3 goals simultaneously:
- Updated facade.
- Thermal insulation.
- Moisture protection.
But for insulation to be truly effective, the selected material must meet the following criteria:
- Easy to install.
- Preservation of the primary form.
- Resistance to chemical and biological compounds.
- Environmentally friendly.
- Long service life.
- Low thermal conductivity.
The choice of insulation for siding is also influenced by two factors: air humidity in your area and wind rose.
Types of insulation
There is a wide choice warm insulating materials for the facade of a wooden house. For example, if you select roll insulation, then the layer should be from 3 to 20 mm. Its fastening is carried out using special glue. You can also use mineral or basalt fibers, which are produced in slabs. Mineral wool and polyethylene foam are very popular. Polystyrene foam is also often used. The strength and effectiveness of this material has been tested by time.
Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the facade under the siding. This material retains its original shape and is ideal for any type of siding. Mineral wool is produced in slabs of the following sizes:
- 600×1200 mm.
- 500×1000 mm.
When choosing mineral wool for facade insulation, make sure that its density is more than 80 kg/m3.
Before laying the insulation, it is mandatory to lay a layer of vapor barrier (polyethylene or roofing felt is usually used). It is necessary to prevent condensation between the insulation and the wall.
A vapor barrier is not needed when laying mineral wool. This insulation allows steam to pass through and does not absorb moisture.
When laying insulation, it is important not to leave a single crack or gap. It should envelop the entire façade of the building. The insulation itself is fixed on the already manufactured sheathing. After this process, you can begin installing siding, the technology of which was written about in this article.
- When installing any siding, it is necessary to avoid excessive tension on the panels when connecting each subsequent row to the previous one. Otherwise, this is fraught with swelling, deformation of a separate panel and damage to the surface of building facades.
- The very last row of panels is laid after the finishing strip is installed.
- Paneling is carried out from the bottom up, and is completed under the eaves of the structure.
- To install siding in places where objects, such as pipes, are located, holes are cut in the panels that are approximately 6 millimeters wider than the object.
- When covering the openings with siding using J-profiles, it is necessary to install the upper and lower edges above and below them, respectively. First, J-profiles are installed, and the edges are installed in them.
- When installing siding above the eaves, first install two or three finishing slats, joined to each other (the lower gap is maintained within 3 millimeters).
Video
We invite you to watch a video about installing siding.
Photo
Below in the photographs you can view the options for finishing houses with siding:
Scheme
The diagrams show some details of siding installation:
An excellent material for covering a house is siding. This fairly inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special construction skills. To do this, just study the siding installation instructions and watch the video material.
Preparing the wall surface
Before starting work on installing the panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.
First of all you should:
- Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
- Remove all kinds of fastenings, drainpipes, and existing moldings from the walls.
- Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
- On wooden walls, nail down all loose boards and replace any rotten ones.
After this, you can begin installing the frame, which can be made of a metal profile or wooden beam.
Profile installation
Experts recommend using durable and strong metal sheathing, which you can even attach to uneven ground. Such a frame is installed in half-meter increments and attached to the surface using hangers. This will allow you to secure the structural elements at a level and smooth out differences in the surface.
When choosing a wooden sheathing, you should note for the following points:
- the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
- it is unacceptable for the beams to be deformed;
- the material should not exfoliate.
To ensure that the wooden sheathing lasts a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or fire retardant.
Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. TO wooden surface they are attached using self-tapping screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are driven.
Rules for fastening the sheathing frame:
- The bars are mounted every 40 cm.
- Tracks should be secured around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, and at the bottom and top of siding.
- The sheathing must be securely fastened.
- The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
- The panel is attached to at least two bars.
- The front parts of the bars should not be distorted.
When installing a profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane must be carefully checked. Otherwise, the façade cladding may turn out uneven and wavy.
Sequence of work for home insulation:
- The slabs are fastened between the sheathing bars.
- A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is secured with perforated membranes.
- Bars with a cross section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.
Siding installation: video instructions, stages of work
Before starting work, you must be prepared the following tools:
- Roulette.
- Building level.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer or drill.
- Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared to size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, which produces a more beautiful cut.
You should know that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.
Attaching the starting bar
The first siding panels are attached to the wooden or metal sheathing from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have additional protection from precipitation.
The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial strip attached along the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.
- The bottom mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm above the bottom point of the sheathing.
- Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. In this case, a thread is stretched between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked building level.
- Along the stretched thread, use chalk to mark a line along which the starting strips will be installed. As a result of the work, the starting and finishing marks should coincide.
- Attach the strip to the corner sheathing and mark the boundaries of its location.
- Having retreated from the marked border of 6 mm, you can begin attaching the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that they do not come into contact during temperature changes.
- When using brackets as fastening elements, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.
Some experts advise immediately installing starting strips on door and window blocks. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may ultimately not be at the level of the initial bar.
Do-it-yourself installation of corner profiles
Row panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are installed first.
Installation features:
To appearance the building looked harmonious, the joints at the corners and connectors should be at the same level.
Installing siding around openings
The openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. That's why installing panels around openings can be performed in two versions.
If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then waterproofing is first installed, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being noticeable, the following rules must be observed:
- Make bridge cuts on both sides of the top profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
- bend the bridges down;
- on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
- connect the side and top siding panels so that the bent bridges are inside;
- connect the lower casing and the side elements, which have bridges cut on their sides.
The notched bridges are lowered down so that precipitation from the upper plank goes to the lower one.
If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile should be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges must be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.
Installing the first panel
When installing siding yourself for the first time, it is recommended to start installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.
- Insert the panel into the corner profile and connect it to the starting strip lock, leaving a 6mm gap.
- Attach the strip to the sheathing without tension.
Vinyl siding can increase your dimensions to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe the technological indentations. If the cladding is installed in winter time year, then the gaps should be equal to 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.
Siding extension
Panels are built up overlapping or using an H-profile.
- Before fastening the overlap, the locks and fastening frames are trimmed so that the length of the overlap is 25 mm.
- When installing the H-profile at the bottom, 6 mm should be deviated from the starting strip, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is built up with an overlap, in the same way as the corner strips.
Features of installation of the main siding
To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.
From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part equal to the width of the opening plus twice the technological gap of 6 mm is cut off.
The strips cut at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and will provide an indentation of 2 mm.
A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in the plane.
When installing siding with your own hands, you should remember that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontalness, using a level.
Under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:
- The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by indentation.
- The result obtained is marked on the whole bar and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
- “Hooks” are created in the upper part of the resulting element, the distance between which should be 20 cm. To do this, cuts are made that are folded to the front side.
- The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate strip and is connected upward to the lock of the finishing profile.
The building is finished with siding and sheathing along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use a starting profile or panels for internal corners.
Installation is similar to installation wall panels:
Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.
Installing siding with your own hands will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such finishing, you will get a house that will delight its owners with its appearance for many years.
If you want to change the appearance of your house yourself, but don’t want to get your hands dirty with plaster, paint or other mixtures, install the siding: beautifully, efficiently, quickly. Indeed, the work will not take even one day.
Arm yourself with installation instructions, learn some of the details with tools and get down to business. A diagram from the manufacturer will help you see the complete structure of the siding cladding.
Yes, you only need a knife, a jigsaw, a drill, a level, a tape measure and a screwdriver. This minimum set tools with which you can install siding. And we will tell you what equipment a professional has with him - these tools will greatly simplify the process:
- Installation diagram;
- Roulette;
- Crimping pliers;
- Circular electric saw;
- Eye protection glasses;
- Fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
- Pliers;
- Folding metal ruler;
- Level (minimum 60 cm);
The laser tool is more convenient to use than a conventional one.
- Crosscut saw;
- Chalk is a tool for marking the places where the initial plank is attached;
- Twine is a tool for pulling on nails for the purpose of even fastening;
- Carpenter's hammer;
- Nail puller + hammer;
- Knife-cutter;
- Screwdriver;
- Tin scissors - a tool for cutting vinyl;
- Awl.
If you decide to use a grinder, doing it yourself, turn it on at low power, otherwise strong heating can deform the sections of the sheets and the material will not get onto the facade.
Installation principles
Vinyl siding can expand and contract up to 9.5 mm under temperature loads. Before asking questions about how to install or how to install siding, read the tips on how to do the installation correctly:
- Store materials at temperature conditions no higher than 60 C. That is, you cannot fold it with your own hands either outdoors in extreme heat or on dark surfaces. Storage in places where air cannot penetrate (a plastic container, for example) is also contraindicated.
- Make sure that the siding panels can move in different directions.
- When fastening, you need to lightly press down from bottom to top and connect to the bottom part. Remember! A panel pulled up shifts its radius, causing the locks to rub.
- Be careful to drive the nail into the center of the hole, otherwise you will damage the panel. If you need a larger hole, use a hammer drill.
- As mentioned earlier, the panels expand and contract when siding is installed, so leave a 6.4 mm gap at all holes to prevent negative consequences. At an installation temperature of 5 degrees. the gap is made up to 9.5 mm.
- Drive the nails straight, do not nail them tightly - you will damage the panel frame. Make the distance between the nail heads and the panel 1 mm.
- When overlapping panels or connecting them to a J-profile, internal corner, do not seal them.
- Change damaged panels from time to time - it is very convenient that you do not need to remove the entire cladding.
Keep an eye on the beams you buy for the sheathing. Now many sellers supply young, not completely dry wood. As a result, it dries completely under the siding, forming uneven surfaces. Because of this installed siding loses its beauty.
Installation procedure
In general, installing siding with your own hands has several stages, which we will consider later in the article. Remember: for better protection façade walls, start mounting from bottom to top. Fasten panel after panel sequentially.
When work takes place in winter or during low temperatures(not lower than 15 degrees), it is advisable for the siding to lie outside to get used to the new conditions. In this situation, a grinder or fine-toothed saw is used for cutting.
Installation of the first strip
The starting panel is attached to the surface of the entire area under. Beginners conduct preliminary training here - it will be completely covered with siding during installation. In addition, it can be connected from pieces different colors- this is not critical. Here you need to spend time on high-quality leveling of the plank, as it determines the quality of the finish.
As a rule, the initial siding installation technology looks like this:
- Mark the location of the starting strip - screw in a self-tapping screw or drive a nail at the lowest point of the wall, at a short distance from the ground.
- Pull the thread, the level will determine how correctly you did it.
- Draw a line along the thread with chalk; it will become the location for installing the starting bar.
- After drawing the lines you can fix them.
Use a building level as often as possible (every third row at least).
How to properly attach siding
To do correct installation follow the golden rules:
- Measure the distance between the nails (2.5–3 cm);
- Drive the nails in at a 90 degree angle;
- Self-tapping screws or nails are attached in the center of the oval holes to allow the panel to slide as it expands.
- To ensure that the gap between the siding and the head of the nail is about 1 mm, you can attach a 1-kopeck coin or hammer it in (or tighten it if it is a self-tapping screw), and later loosen it on the contrary or remove it a little with a nail puller.
- At corners, do not finish the mount; use special corner strips.
An important technological point: also leave a 1 mm layer between the wall and the vinyl siding.
There is no need to rush to install slats on windows and balcony doors - at this stage it is difficult to calculate the size and optimality of the slats. Later, when the need arises, then yes.
Fastening the planks vertically: corners and H-connector
Before fastening the main planks, the corners into which the row panels will be placed are mounted. Vinyl corner fastenings, secrets:
- The corner should be at a distance of 5–7 mm above the ground surface so that it does not deform when heated;
- Start attaching the corner from the top hole. On nails or screws that go from the very top, the corner “hangs”, all subsequent ones are attached in the center;
- We cut off the corner that is below the initial strip to avoid deformation when heated.
Extension of the bar
Despite the fact that corner strips are sold up to four meters long, the façade may be higher and there will be a need for a longer strip. To do this, follow these steps:
- Attach the bottom of the strip;
Installing the strip on top will help prevent water from flowing into the strip and increase its service life.
- From the bar that will be at the top, cut off the fastening points by 5 cm;
- Place one plank on top of another, 20–25 mm, leaving a gap of 5 mm.
If the angle is not right
Due to the flexibility of the material, it can be used for sharp or obtuse angles. For sharp ones, you need to secure one side and secure the other by pressing on it. For obtuse angles, you need to apply pressure on both sides. You can save a lot of money by installing regular J-planks instead of corners.
H-profile
If you paid a lot of attention to the starting bar and angles, this process does not take much time. There is a need for accurate calculation bar location. The technology is the same as when attaching corners, namely:
Mount top bar after the bottom; If it is necessary to lengthen, pieces of 5–7 mm are cut off from another panel (joined with an overlap of 20–25 mm).
If you do not want to install an H-profile, install the slabs overlapping.
Fastening of ordinary panels
Install row panels in a circle or alternately on each wall. For this:
- Bend slightly outward, insert the first strip into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, secure with a nail or self-tapping screw (make sure that the self-tapping screw is in the center of the hole). Start attaching hardware from the center to the edges of the walls. Be mindful of gaps.
- Lower the siding panel to the starting strip until it snaps into place, move it slightly horizontally to check how well the mounted fasteners are installed.
- Secure it with hardware.
- Do the rest of the rows the same way.
You can install exterior siding along one line or “in a running pattern.”
Installing trim near windows and doors
Doors and windows can be located flush with the wall, or they can have slopes. How to make a mount:
- Flush with the walls - just attach J-profiles along the edges and insert the siding panel into them;
- If there is a slope, first a sheathing is made along its perimeter. It is needed for installing the finishing profile siding (on slats closer to the window), to which the near-window profile is attached. Moreover, the “tongues” at the top and bottom are cut, unfastened and covered with a profile. Next, the siding panel is installed.
Is it possible to finish the arch?
You can attach the siding to the arch using flexible J-straps. To add flexibility to the profile, depending on the radius of the arch, notches are made. Attaching the profile to the corners of the arch and inserting panels into them is not difficult.
If there are protruding elements on the facade - taps, pipes, pieces of reinforcement and others, cut the strip in this place, cut off the necessary pieces from the planks. Then you need to overlap them.
Finishing strips and last row
You have reached the final stage of finishing the facade. Attach the finishing strip to the top of the building. Measure how much is left until the last strip of the row. Bend the horizontal strip to fit under the last bar and lock.
Pediment finishing
If you want to attach the gable simply follow the steps above. Before installing siding, read the instructions:
- Do-it-yourself installation of vinyl siding starting strip;
- J-profile fasteners along the slopes, you can use leftovers;
- At the top of the profile, strips cut along the front diagonal are overlapped with a gap;
- The angle of inclination is measured for correct pruning stingrays;
- The planks are attached alternately from bottom to top;
- The corner of the last strip is inserted into the J-profile, here the hardware at the top is driven through the panel.
Conclusion
To more accurately understand the technological aspect that the work involves, look at the work of professionals or videos on this topic. It’s not at all difficult to decorate your façade with siding, if you want to. Components and materials can be purchased at your local hardware store.
– an excellent material for cladding a house. At its affordable price, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.
You are invited detailed instructions By self-installation siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you can complete any finishing that involves installation on the lathing: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.
We install the sheathing
Siding is best attached to pre-installed sheathing. We work in the following order.
The first stage - choosing the material
The frame can be assembled from wooden beams or metal profiles. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, metal sheathing is much easier to attach to an uneven base.
Find out and also familiarize yourself with the calculation algorithm with an emphasis on possible nuances.
Installation of profiles is carried out in half-meter increments. Suspensions are used for mounting to the wall. This technique will allow you to level out differences in the surface and secure the frame elements at a level.
Wooden sheathing is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:
- the material has peeled off;
- was deformed;
- had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.
Elements of wooden sheathing must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built from wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.
Stage two - preparing the base
The sheathing is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any parts that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.
The third stage - installing guides
Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or sheathing profiles vertically.
For attaching guides to wooden walls use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fasten it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.
We align each rail by level.
Important! If you plan to do exterior work, it is best to install the siding sheathing after all insulation work has been completed. IN in this case There will be two lathing: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the slats of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.
You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.
Mounting J-profiles
The starting guides must be secured perfectly, because... The quality of the entire cladding depends on the correct installation.
First step. Take a level and find the lowest point on the sheathing. We step back 50 mm from it and put a mark. To do this, screw a little self-tapping screw into the rail.
Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to place marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw screws into the corners of the house.
Third step. We stretch the ropes between the corner marks.
Fourth step. We mark the boundaries of installation of corner profiles on the slats. We take the profile itself and apply it to the corner frame structure and place marks along the edges using a pencil.
Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.
Leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.
To avoid making a 6 mm indentation, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.
Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations as long as necessary.
If you install guides that deviate from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.
Prices for profile mounts
Profile fastenings
We install external corner profiles
First step. We mark the soffits. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be located in the future.
Second step. We apply the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fasten the profile with self-tapping screws.
Place the bottom border of the element 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.
Third step. Checking the vertical installation. If there are no deviations, we fix the bottom, and then the remaining places. Experts do not recommend placing fasteners in corner elements too often.
If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be placed one on top of the other. To do this, we trim the top profile. As a result, there should be a 9 mm gap between the planks of the joining elements. When laying the elements, maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.
Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.
If the base has a protruding structure, shorten the profile so that there is a 6 mm gap between it and the base.
Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. If you decide to use this method, first glue the wall around a similar corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.
We install internal corner profiles
The installation procedure for these elements does not differ significantly from the installation technology external corners– between the profile and the soffit we leave a gap of 3 mm, and lower the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.
If there is a protruding plinth or other element from below that stands out from the general level, then between it and the profile we also leave a 6-mm indentation - the profile of the internal corner must not rest against it.
There are 3 methods for arranging internal corners, see the picture.
If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we splice the profiles. The technology is the same as for arranging external corners.
We leave a 9mm gap between the slats, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install fasteners in 4-centimeter increments, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here the fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.
We install frames of openings
For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing and doorways. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.
Openings in the same plane with the facade
In this case, we do the following.
First step. We waterproof openings.
Second step. We attach platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.
Third step. Connecting profiles.
To make the connection of the platbands as neat as possible, we do this:
The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further laying on the profile below.
Openings are recessed into the facade
When installing near-window profiles, we follow the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. We create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then we bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.
Take the time to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.
Installing the first panel
We start cladding from the least noticeable wall of the building. This way we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.
First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting strip.
Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.
Second step. Attach the panel to the sheathing.
It is important to maintain the dimensions of technological indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm gap; if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing panel trims, the indents can be reduced.
Extending panels
We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or using an H-profile.
When attaching panels with overlap, you must first shorten the locks cladding panels and mounting frames so that the resulting overlap is 2.5 cm long.
The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, at the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.
Important! We leave a 6mm gap between the H-profile and any obstacles on the house.
Installing the rest of the siding
We continue covering the house with siding. The operating technology is similar to the procedure for attaching the first panel.
Important! Every 2-3 rows we check the horizontality of the cladding using a level.
Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.
We ensure reliable fastening of the panels using “hooks”. For this we need a punch.
We install an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. This will allow the cladding to be leveled.
Installation under the roof
We attach a J-profile under the roof structure.
We work in the following order.
First step. We measure the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.
Second step. We subtract a 1-2 mm indent from the resulting measurement.
Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with the locking connection.
Fourth step. We create “hooks” in the upper part of the element in 20-centimeter increments. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.
Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into the locking connection of the finishing profile.
We mount the pediment
We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top one, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper one fastener install at the top of the hole. It can be sheathed either with profiles for arranging internal corners or with a starting profile.
The installation procedure is similar to fastening wall panels. We trim the edges of the elements and connect them to the locks of the receiving profiles. We remember the 6 mm indentation when installing in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.
We fasten the last element of the gable cladding directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.
The cladding is complete.
Find out how, and review the calculations and step by step guide, from our new article.
In order for the finishing of the house with panels to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as separate tips for panels made from a specific material.
Now you can perform it yourself at the highest level.
| Name (model) | Benefits | Length x width x thickness, mm | Quantity per package, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl Siding "Canada Plus" | 1. Coloring in dark colors is performed using the “Cool Color” method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Retains shock resistance, even if the ambient temperature drops to -20 to 60°C. 4. Not susceptible to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Acrylic Siding "Canada Plus" | Among the others useful qualities acrylic siding“Canada Plus” is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good tolerance to washing with chemical detergents; High degree deformation resistance (excellently tolerates temperatures up to 75°-80° C). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| "Alta-Siding" - Vinyl Siding | "Alta siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60°C); resistance to significant temperature changes and environmental influences; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (can be used to clean siding detergents); non-susceptibility to infection by mold fungi. | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Facade metal siding INSI | INSI siding is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature changes (-50°C - +80°C) and mechanical damage; long term service while maintaining original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; non-flammability; Possibility of installation both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in a ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance. | Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5 | - |
Good luck!
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Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation
