The convenience of the laser level was appreciated by everyone who used it. However, the cost of factory copies is quite high, even if the device was purchased in Chinese Internet store. With a cost of no more than 100 rubles (for the purchase of a children's laser pointer), and devices available in the arsenal of any home handyman, you can make a homemade laser level.

The accuracy of the device will be sufficient for home construction work.

The simplest options for a homemade laser level from scrap materials

Bubble level level

To make it you will need a building level and a laser pointer. A pointer is attached to the bubble level, onto which a clip is placed to secure the button. You can use a camera tripod as a tripod for a laser level. The level is set strictly to the horizon, then the tripod is adjusted.

When rotating building level, the air bubble must always remain in the up position. After which you can mark the horizon from any laser point on the wall.

DIY hanging bar from a laser pointer

A block is used as a base, preferably made of heavy wood. A hole for the laser pointer is drilled at one end; this will be the lower part of the device. The upper part of the bar is suspended from any device. A correctly centered level, when rotated, draws a horizontal plane on the walls.

Float-based level

This is the simplest version of a laser level, made in haste. Water is poured into a wide container (bowl or deep plate), almost to the brim. A piece of foam plastic with a laser pointer fixed horizontally is placed on top. When rotating the foam, the laser beam will always be at the same level.

These level indicators are suitable for simple work. For example, when building a fence or digging a pit for a swimming pool. If you are renovating an apartment, you will need a more precise tool.

How to make a laser level on a gimbal

Without increasing the design budget, you can make a fairly accurate self-leveling laser level from the same children's pointer.

How to make a tripod rod for a laser level yourself?

To make such a rod you need two tubes. Choose a diameter such that one fits into the other. Choose the length based on the height of the room. The length of one should be longer the second half. Cut the long one in half. Insert a smaller tube into the tube bigger size, to the second end too. The telescopic effect has been achieved. We drill holes on the tubes and weld nuts there. We screw the wings into them to secure the tubes (so that they don’t move together). If you need spacers (legs) like a tripod, you can use ski poles. Well, you can figure out the fasteners for the level yourself.

Tripod for optical level polypropylene pipes with your own hands

To use an optical level comfortably, it requires a tripod; sometimes you need to mark a horizontal line somewhere on the wall, while the level stands on the floor; you have to come up with stands for it. Of course, tripods are sold, their cost depends on the height and type of construction, and starts from 1500 rubles (the smallest one), and given the fact that you will use the tripod very rarely (trust me), there is no point in spending money on it, or not at all So, it’s a pity to buy an expensive tripod, so I decided to make it with my own hands from polypropylene pipes, and at the same time try it out welding machine for these pipes.

Of course, if you think that you will use a tripod very often, and even more so you need to carry it with you, then it is better to choose a factory-made one, or there are a lot of such tripods, you can look at this link.

Okay, let's proceed directly to manufacturing, for this we will need:

PP pipe (D 25 mm, 2.5 m) - 1 piece
PP pipe (D 20 mm, 2.5 m) - 1 piece
Tee PP 25 mm – 3 pieces
Pipe holder 25 mm - 5 pieces
Hot glue gun
How to cut pipes, I had a reciprocating saw
Polt or pin that is screwed into the level (from below)

Almost everything is assembled

We cut the pipes to size, I chose the size of the support legs about 30 cm

Let’s figure out what it will look like, we need to keep the proportions somehow

We warm up the machine for welding polypropylene, bought by the way in Leroy Merlin for 800 rubles, it seems to cook well, the water supply system at the dacha was installed using it, there have been no leaks so far.

When I welded the central tee to the pipes, I bent them slightly down towards the floor (relative to the tee itself), so that the center was slightly raised, this makes it easier to use the tripod on an uneven surface. The arrows show where to bend.

I also bent the legs down so that the side tees would also rise from the floor, as a result the level stands on four points of support (points), and not flat

I welded the central tube into which the 20 mm pipe will fit, because the tripod is telescopic.

I cut the pipe by 25 mm, at a height of 1 meter, inserted a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm into it (in the store I immediately measured it to fit into each other), cut it completely inserted, and left a few cm.

Next, you need to secure the bolt with the thread up, in the tube on which a level or something else will be attached. I did this using a heat gun, a very convenient thing to have around the house. Can be purchased at hardware store or order in China (cheaper and more choice)

I soldered the bolt into the pipe and it holds well. This is what happened

I attached an optical level to a tripod and extended it to its maximum, resulting in an impressive height. The closet in the background won't let you lie.

I tried it with the level turned on, it is self-leveling, it calibrated to the horizon without problems, as evidenced by green color power buttons.

Field tests already at construction site

Based on actual use, I can say the following:

It is better to take stronger pipes, these are quite flimsy, and the level may wobble if pulled out higher, which is why it may not be calibrated at all.

There is no need to install pipe holders at the ends of the legs; due to the fact that the pipes are curved relative to the tees, they stand normally.

The cost was about 200 rubles.

For those who don't have a laser level but want one

I bought my level from Leroy Merlin. It’s not expensive, it cost 2500, it’s a very useful thing, I don’t regret the purchase. For those who do not have such stores in the city, and the greed of sellers is off the charts, you can order from China, I will leave here a link to the search page on Ali, specifically Laser levels, read the reviews before buying. Inexpensive levels are household ones, they are not visible in daylight, you can only work indoors even during the day, their range is several meters. In general, see for yourself.

And I almost forgot, these scissors are used for cutting polypropylene and metal-plastic.

I bought it in Leroy Merlin, for 400 rubles, for those who don’t have the opportunity, you can buy it on Ali, I made a selection of inexpensive ones, link to Ali.

That's all I have, thanks for your attention. Ask questions, I will answer as soon as possible.

By making a laser level with your own hands, you will save money with virtually no loss of quality

The convenience of the laser level was appreciated by everyone who used it. However, the cost of factory copies is quite high, even if the device was purchased from a Chinese online store. With a cost of no more than 100 rubles (for the purchase of a children's laser pointer), and devices available in the arsenal of any home craftsman, you can make a homemade laser level.

The accuracy of the device will be sufficient for home construction work.

The simplest options for a homemade laser level from scrap materials

Bubble level level

When rotating the building level, the air bubble should always remain in the upper position. After which you can mark the horizon from any laser point on the wall.

DIY hanging bar from a laser pointer

Float-based level

These level indicators are suitable for simple work. For example, when building a fence or digging a pit for a swimming pool. If you are renovating an apartment, you will need a more precise tool.

How to make a laser level on a gimbal

Without increasing the design budget, you can make a fairly accurate self-leveling laser level from the same children's pointer.

For production you will need:

two old hard drives of the same size;
plastic or fiberboard for the box;
a block of 3 AA batteries from an old children's toy;
soft wire from headphones;
aluminum profile or corner from an old cornice.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions:

1. Carefully disassemble HDD, leaving the bearing and recording plate mount in place

2. From a suitable corner we make a bracket for hanging. The bearing of the HDD recording plates acts as axis No. 1

3. Axle No. 2 of the gimbal is made from the rocker bearing of the recording heads of the hard drive

4. The laser pointer pendant should be level and heavy. IN in this case two were used aluminum corner, filled for weight with a piece of MDF

5. A gimbal is mounted in the upper part of the rod, and a hole for the laser pointer is drilled in the lower part. All holes are located strictly symmetrically to each other. Above the hole for the pointer, it is necessary to provide a place for the centering bolt

6. Assembling the cardan structure. Without a laser pointer, the bar must be positioned strictly vertically under the influence of gravity. Check the free movement of all gimbal bearings

7. Install the pointer into the bar

A simple tripod for a camera, a laser level, or anything.

Visit our website www.bce-legko.ru Advertising on the channel - http://bit.ly/Reklama-bcelegko Advertising on the channel - http://bit.ly/Reklama-bcelegko Tripod for laser level BOSCH BT 170 HD, BOSCH BT 250. ADA 6D SERVOLINER broke the laser level (disadvantages of the plane builder). Do-it-yourself tripod for a spotlight - Everyday life of a Honda driver S01E15. How to repair a laser level \ Repairing a Bosch PCL 20 level \ The laser has gone out. Tripods for laser level. Comparative test. Review of telescopic tripods. installation of plaster beacons using a Bosch GLL 3-80 laser. DIY laser from a lighter. High-precision bubble level, do it yourself in 5 minutes, in field conditions. Accessories for laser levels. How to make a line from a laser dot. How to make a tripod from a Coca Cola bottle with your own hands / How to make a monopod with Coca-Cola bottle. DIY tripod. Life hacking with a laser level. DIY camera tripod. How to make markings for installing a profile under drywall.

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How to make a laser level with your own hands?

A DIY laser level made from scrap materials will help you save a decent amount of money and will be a good alternative to a professional one. construction equipment. During repair and construction work, it often becomes necessary to mark at the same level, but at a large distance. The bubble level is too inconvenient for this type of marking, so you need to get a tool for creating marks at a distance. A construction laser level is perfect for such work. But such a tool is incredibly expensive, so the only option for most may be to create such a tool yourself.

A laser level is an indispensable tool for repairs and construction, which you can make yourself.

Differences between a homemade model

A homemade laser level can be used for mirror and symmetrical markings over long distances during construction or repair. Certainly, homemade version has a short range of action: approximately 10-12 meters. But this is quite enough to complete most of the necessary notes.
Professional devices are capable of creating marks, calculating angles and much more. But the big disadvantage of such devices is their price.

Some of the electronic models start at two hundred dollars, which is not that cheap. But in most cases, many of the offered capabilities of professional equipment will not be needed, so you can get by with homemade design. A homemade level will cost tens of times less, and you will need available materials to assemble it.

Tripod or adjustable support option

Laser pointer device.

You can place your DIY laser level on a tripod or adjustable stand. It will be quite a convenient and functional design. Tools you will need:

The materials we use are:

wooden block;
laser pointer;
bubble level;
electrical tape;
plastic clamps;
scotch;
nails, screws, self-tapping screws or screws;
plastic and wooden planes of the same size (planks, tiles).

The design idea is quite simple - the laser pointer is placed on a movable element. Using such a device, you can make markings 360 degrees around an axis at the same level. We will need a children's or more powerful laser pointer, depending on the budget. It is with this small element that the work begins.
How to make such a device is described below:

Types of laser levels.

Let's start with modifying the pointer. The glass or plastic lens must be removed from the attachment. Instead, you can place a small piece of cardboard inside or cover the hole with electrical tape on the outside.
Next, using a needle, you need to make a hole exactly in the center where the beam will pass. The small hole made by the needle will reduce scattering and increase the accuracy of the instrument.
The next element is the platform. To make a movable plane, you can connect plastic plate and a wooden board of the same size with a self-tapping screw. This part will allow our device to rotate around its axis.
We place a bubble level on the platform, and on it a rubber shock absorber (a piece of rubber of a suitable size).
We install a laser pointer on the rubber and secure it with tape, clamps or other possible means.

The homemade design is ready. But it must be tested before work.

For calibration, you can select two points, mark them using the resulting laser level and connect them with thread or fishing line. Check the slope with a level. If there are no mistakes, then the equipment is suitable for creating marks.

More mobile option

The disadvantage of the first type of structure is its limited mobility - only horizontal rotation. If there is a need to make marks not only horizontally, but also vertically, you can try to build next type designs:

You will need a plastic or wooden base.
A small pin, bolt or screw is secured to the base. The last elements are placed with the cap down.
A wide articulated fork clings to the resulting mount.
The articulated fork will house a plastic or wooden narrow piece on which the laser pointer will be attached.
A hole is drilled in the workpiece with a diameter equal to the screw, which will pass through it approximately equal to the diameter of the fork ears.
A pointer is attached to the workpiece, and if there is space left, a bubble level is used.

Laser level device diagram.

Thanks to this type of design, you can change vertical angle provisions. Depending on ingenuity and the fork found, almost a full 270 degree vertical rotation can be achieved. Using a nut with lugs, you can quickly unscrew the fixation screw and change its position. It is worth considering that the larger the fork, the wider the base will be needed to ensure a stable position.
The design can also be improved:

You can make a groove in a wooden blank in which to conveniently and securely attach the pointer.
In the adjusting screw, you can use either a regular nut or an element with ears, but the second is much more convenient.
The design with a pin without thread will be collapsible. To make it stable, you will have to select the appropriate diameter of the connecting element of the hinge fork. In the case of threads, you can also use homemade forks.
If you don’t have a fork, its semblance can be made from a metal-plastic ring of sufficient strength, you just have to choose the right diameter. You will need to make three holes: two on the sides, opposite each other, and the third at an equal distance from the two future “ears”. Next you need to cut the ring opposite the last hole. You will get a semicircular blank with a hole at the bottom and ears for the bolt on the sides.
To prevent the homemade fork from loosening and twisting too much when turning, you can place a rubber gasket under it.

Conclusion on the topic

If it is not possible to purchase expensive construction tools, you can try to make their home equivalent.

Using available materials, you can get it cheap functional model, great for creating markup. This tool can be used for mirror marking of rooms during renovation or planning suburban area. Just take into account the small radius of the laser. Although the tool does not look impressive, it is great for marking points.

A DIY laser level made from scrap materials will help you save a decent amount of money and will be a good alternative to professional construction equipment. During repair and construction work, it often becomes necessary to mark at the same level, but at a large distance. The bubble level is too inconvenient for this type of marking, so you need to get a tool for creating marks at a distance. A construction laser level is perfect for such work. But such a tool is incredibly expensive, so the only option for most may be to create such a tool yourself.

A laser level is an indispensable tool for repairs and construction, which you can make yourself.

Differences between a homemade model

A homemade laser level can be used for mirror and symmetrical markings over long distances during construction or repair. Of course, the homemade version has a short range of action: approximately 10-12 meters. But this is quite enough to complete most of the necessary notes.
Professional devices are capable of creating marks, calculating angles and much more. But the big disadvantage of such devices is their price.

Some of the electronic models start at two hundred dollars, which is not that cheap. But in most cases, many of the proposed capabilities of professional equipment will not be needed, so you can get by with a homemade design. A homemade level will cost tens of times less, and you will need available materials to assemble it.

Tripod or adjustable support option

You can place your DIY laser level on a tripod or adjustable stand. It will be quite a convenient and functional design. Tools you will need:

drill;
set of wrenches;
hammer;
needle.

The materials we use are:

wooden block;
laser pointer;
bubble level;
electrical tape;
plastic clamps;
scotch;
nails, screws, self-tapping screws or screws;
plastic and wooden planes of the same size (planks, tiles).

Let's start with modifying the pointer. The glass or plastic lens must be removed from the attachment. Instead, you can place a small piece of cardboard inside or cover the hole with electrical tape on the outside.
Next, using a needle, you need to make a hole exactly in the center where the beam will pass. The small hole made by the needle will reduce scattering and increase the accuracy of the instrument.
The next element is the platform. To make a movable plane, you can connect a plastic plate and a wooden plank of the same size with a self-tapping screw. This part will allow our device to rotate around its axis.
We place a bubble level on the platform, and on it a rubber shock absorber (a piece of rubber of a suitable size).
We install a laser pointer on the rubber and secure it with tape, clamps or other possible means.

The homemade design is ready. But it must be tested before work.

More mobile option

You will need a plastic or wooden base.
A small pin, bolt or screw is secured to the base. The last elements are placed with the cap down.
A wide articulated fork clings to the resulting mount.
The articulated fork will house a plastic or wooden narrow piece on which the laser pointer will be attached.
A hole is drilled in the workpiece with a diameter equal to the screw, which will pass through it approximately equal to the diameter of the fork ears.
A pointer is attached to the workpiece, and if there is room left, a bubble level is used.

Thanks to this type of design, the vertical angle of the position can be changed. Depending on ingenuity and the fork found, almost a full 270 degree vertical rotation can be achieved. Using a nut with lugs, you can quickly unscrew the fixation screw and change its position. It is worth considering that the larger the fork, the wider the base will be needed to ensure a stable position.
The design can also be improved:

You can make a groove in a wooden blank in which to conveniently and securely attach the pointer.
In the adjusting screw, you can use either a regular nut or an element with ears, but the second is much more convenient.
The design with a pin without thread will be collapsible. To make it stable, you will have to select the appropriate diameter of the connecting element of the hinge fork. In the case of threads, you can also use homemade forks.
If you don’t have a fork, its semblance can be made from a metal-plastic ring of sufficient strength, you just have to choose the right diameter. You will need to make three holes: two on the sides, opposite each other, and the third at an equal distance from the two future “ears”. Next you need to cut the ring opposite the last hole. You will get a semicircular blank with a hole at the bottom and ears for the bolt on the sides.
To prevent the homemade fork from loosening and twisting too much when turning, you can place a rubber gasket under it.

Conclusion on the topic

If it is not possible to purchase expensive construction tools, you can try to make their home equivalent.

ADA Silver. It comes in two versions. With and without a tripod. The tripod allows you to work without resting on the ceiling and outdoors (when there is no strong wind :-))

Where to place the rod: at home or outside?

If you're looking for a traction bar, this should tempt you. This is actually a Roman chair. This type of device allows you to achieve a greater variety of exercises compared to a conventional traction booster. Nothing beats bodybuilding or cross-training outside. But you will need to consider the weather, and unless you live in an area where it never rains, the weather will be a limitation. However, you can attach the rod to the wall of your covered patio.

The advantage of a bar is that you can exercise whenever you want. You won't have a view of your garden and you won't be breathing fresh air, but at least you'll know you'll be dry! Attaching the door pull is really not difficult since you have little or nothing to do. You just have to be sure to place it on a frame that will support your weight.

The difference in price, by the way, is small. Without a tripod, a telescopic rod costs approximately 2,000 rubles. With a tripod it costs 200-300 rubles more.

I'll test the barbell without the tripod today.

The spacer bar comes in a convenient bag with a shoulder strap. Consists of 5 threaded elbows, a movable platform and 2 support heels. The knees are numbered, on them centimeter marks applied.

For a wall panel it becomes more complex. You must be a minimum master. It is secured with an ankle and screws. Think about this also to make sure for your safety that the wall or ceiling can support your weight, weight and a lot of tensile forces. Here are our tips to fix your bar in the best possible way.

You must determine the height at which it should be installed. To do this, know that your body should not touch the ground when your arms are extended and your knees are bent. You must be able to access the bar without jumping. The space between the rod and the ceiling must be sufficient to allow the head to pass over the rod. Face the wall and extend your hand. Make a mark in the middle of your arms and draw a line at that level. Check horizontality with a level. Using a suitable drill bit, you should now drill the mounting holes in the wall. Using a hammer, simply press the holes Anchors adapted to support in the holes Now place the bar on the anchors and screw the rod!

The first knee is telescopic, with rotary fixation. It also has a spring, thanks to which it is convenient to install the rod in the spacer. Maximum height, on which the tripod bar is unfolded - 3.6 meters. If you have a tripod, you can place the level even higher.

Where to buy a traction bar at the best price?

By following these steps, you can make your activities safe and secure. optimal comfort use. But keep in mind that the price of traction in Intersport or other is often high. The selection is wider, the invoice is smaller, delivery is fast and the quality is on target.

The pressure level is adjusted to the spray nozzle. Replace the thread high pressure detergent in operating mode without replacing the spray nozzle. The spray gun is easily accessible and can be placed in the machine along with the spray nozzle to clean the gap.

For our flow of 3 meters high, 4 sections were enough.

The movable platform for fixing the laser level has a 5/8 thread. Many devices have such threads or adapters from ¼ to 5/8.

However, before purchasing a barbell, make sure that your plane builder model is suitable for the barbell. On some models with legs, these legs can be unscrewed, but even this does not help to screw the device. There are also special adapter screws on sale. There is a handle-clamp to secure the platform.

The platform easily moves up and down (until it is latched) and also, thanks to the soft support heels, the device can be rotated 360 degrees. The fastening screw has a through hole through which a plumb point is projected.

Maximum weight of the device which the bar can support is 4 kg. The bar itself, by the way, is light. Its weight is only 1.5 kg (aluminum knees).

Using this telescopic rodmakes working with a laser level much easier. It makes it easy to hang the ceiling and make markings along the entire wall. Centimeter marks come in handy here. In general, a very useful accessory.