How to lay decorative stone on a wall. Laying artificial stone with your own hands: the process from A to Z How to correctly lay artificial stone on the wall

Artificial stone is a magnificent aristocratic element of home decor. Exquisite stone cladding looks expressive, beautiful, aesthetically pleasing, and immediately attracts attention in the room. Moreover, it is durable and environmentally friendly. pure material with excellent performance properties. Thanks to a variety of colors and textures, facing stone is suitable for almost any interior - you can turn your room into a small medieval castle, an ancient Roman mansion, or classically decorate a fireplace or swimming pool. In addition, piece stone is lightweight, has regular aesthetic shapes, is not afraid of fungus and corrosion, is unpretentious in care and cleaning, and is also easy to install, which is what we will talk about today.

Let's divide the article into the following points:






Tools and materials we will need:

  • notched spatula (up to 6 mm);

  • trowel or simple spatula;

  • construction level;

  • roulette;

  • pencil or marker;

  • drill with mixer for mortar and grout;

  • metal brush;

  • container for mortar and grout;

  • water;

  • tile adhesive;

  • paint brush;

  • rags, sponges, rags;

  • a wooden block (or hammer) for leveling the cladding;

  • putty or grout;

  • a syringe for jointing (or a bag/bag with a hole);

  • special spatula for grouting;

  • natural brush for cleaning installation seams;

  • knife, pliers, sandpaper;

  • grout paint (if necessary);

  • grinder with discs and a hacksaw for wood (with small teeth);

  • varnish for impregnation.


How much stone will you need?
In order to calculate the required quantity of pieces finishing stone for your room, use the following algorithm:

  1. To calculate the area under a flat artificial stone in sq.m. you need to multiply the height of the surface by its length. Subtract from the resulting number the total area of ​​the site, which will be without cladding (doors, windows, etc.).

  2. If you will be facing corners, then for the corner elements of the decorative stone you need to measure the height of the corners - external and internal, on which the stone will be laid. As a rule, one linear (“long”) meter of corner stone covers approximately 0.25 sq.m. flat area.

  3. Now subtract the footage of the corner decorative elements from the first number.

  4. To the result you need to add a safety margin of 10%. Be sure to buy decorative stone a little more than the planned quantity - possible rejection, damage, etc.

Preparatory stage of work

  1. Particular attention should be paid to the basic work surface. The wall must be strong, clean, even, without deformation. If necessary, remove the old layer of plaster or wallpaper, as well as all dirt, stains, debris, dust, etc. In principle, a perfectly flat surface is not necessary here, since the stone will hide minor imperfections in the wall. The main thing is normal adhesion of surfaces (adhesion). To test the wall for adhesion, wet the questionable areas with water. Where water is not absorbed, additional machining surfaces.

  2. It is highly recommended to scratch the wall a little in advance, for example with a mechanical brush. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the back base of the stone.

  3. Then remove construction remains and dust, then be sure to prime the base base (take the primer on water based), especially if the wall absorbs water heavily.

  4. It happens that on the back side of the stone after purchase there remains the so-called “cement laitance” (a kind of glossy layer). It must be removed before installation. To do this, use a wire brush.

  5. One more nuance. It is best to lay facing stone at temperatures ranging from +5 to +28°C. If the temperature is higher (for example, in very hot rooms or close to the fireplace) - then you need 15-20 minutes. Before starting work, use brushes to moisten the surface of the base wall with water. It is also recommended to wet the back of the stone with water, waiting a few minutes until it is absorbed.

  6. Finally, before laying it is advisable to lay out your stone pattern rough on the floor - think through the entire structure of the future stone “pattern”. You can not lay out the entire pattern, but at least an area of ​​2-3 sq.m. This way you can better select stones by color, texture, pattern and see with your own eyes how it will look on the wall.

Laying facing stone

  1. First of all, you need to mark the wall horizontally, taking into account the length of the stone. Use a level and tape measure for this. You can divide the wall into 4-5 identical sections - this will make it easier to work. Thanks to the markings, you will clarify for yourself in which places the stones need to be cut, how best to adjust the cladding, etc.

  2. Artificial stone can be laid with or without jointing. Therefore, during the marking process in the first case, take into account the thickness of the seams. The decorative joint gap may vary depending on the type of stone, but, as a rule, it is within 1 cm.

  3. Laying order. If you have corner elements, then you need to start laying with them. Next, a logical question arises: to start from the top or from the bottom? It can be done either way. It is recommended to do it as follows: if there are seams, start laying from the top edge of the wall, and without jointing, it is better to start tiling from the bottom. In general, tiling from top to bottom will avoid getting tile adhesive on the lower areas, but laying from bottom to top of the wall reduces the risk of the facing stone slipping. Choose the most convenient option for yourself.

  4. Read the instructions and dilute the tile adhesive to the consistency of toothpaste. If there is too much glue or, conversely, not enough, the stone may slide on the wall. We do not take all the glue at once, but so that it lasts for about 20 minutes, otherwise it will harden later.

  5. Next, use a spatula or trowel to apply glue to the base surface of the wall, carefully rubbing it into the base. After this, use a notched trowel to evenly apply glue to the back side of the stone. It is recommended to hold the spatula at an angle of 60°. The thickness of the glue on the stone should be no more than 4-6 mm (optimally 2-3 mm), otherwise the stone will slide along the wall.

  6. We apply the stone to the base and press it down, as if rubbing it into the surface, slightly moving it from side to side. You need to press with sufficient force, but at the same time make sure that the glue does not get on outside stone You can also use tapping with a wooden hammer or block.

  7. If you need to trim, decorative stone can be easily processed with a grinder with diamond stone discs. For softer gypsum stone, you can use a fine-toothed wood saw. Also, in order to give the stone more interesting shapes, if necessary, you can use pliers, a knife and sandpaper for fine processing of the cladding.

  8. Not necessary, but experts recommend that beginners place several stones on the surface in advance to test the strength of the adhesion and practice. They can then be removed if necessary after 3-4 days.

  9. Seamless installation is faster. The main thing here is to lay the stones tightly together. When laying seamlessly, it is allowed that the glue begins to separate between the stones (but does not get on the front side of the stone). This way you will achieve better sealing.

  10. There will be more work on the seams, but the finish will look much more attractive and interesting. First, when laying between the stones, you need to lay pieces of drywall, fiberboard strips, etc., usually up to 1 cm thick, although sometimes up to 1.5 cm. Then the slats are removed. Next, a day later, when the glue has dried, the seams must be carefully filled. Make sure that your jointing is suitable for heavy tiles, since putty mixtures for lighter tiles cannot be used when working with stone. Prepare the putty according to the instructions, then, using a special syringe or bag (you can also use a milk carton) with a hole, evenly and slowly cover the seams. The solution, when it has set a little, is compacted and leveled along the seam with a special rubber spatula, using pressing movements. You can also level and wipe off excess mixture with an ordinary rag or sponge. Then use a stiff natural brush (not an iron brush) to completely straighten and clean the seams. Finally, if necessary, the seams can be painted with a special paint to match the color you need (it is usually sold complete with stones).

  11. It happens that some sets of artificial stone have different sizes, texture, etc. In this case, when laying, use the “principle of chaos” - make sure that artificial stones of the same size or shade are not placed in the overall stone pattern. Also, in some cases it is better to alternate the short and long sides of the finishing stone. For decorative brick It’s more rational to use checkerboard laying (so that the seams do not intersect). In general, make sure that the wall has an attractive appearance after cladding, and approach the process creatively. The color, texture, general pattern and thickness of the stone are up to your taste.

  12. After the grout has completely dried, it is recommended to coat the cladding with a special water-based impregnating varnish (water repellent). As a rule, such varnish comes complete with stones. Varnishing is especially necessary if your stonework will be in contact with a water surface, for example, near a swimming pool. Thanks to this special varnish, the decorative stone will last much longer. Before varnishing, clean the stone from dust, debris, etc., then coat a small area and evaluate the results. If everything fits, varnish the entire remaining surface. If the varnish is too shiny, it can be further diluted with water.

Decorative stone is widely used to decorate interiors and exteriors of buildings. Thanks to this building material, an imitation of almost any natural type of masonry (brick, slate, cobblestone) is created. In order for the work to be done efficiently, the decorative stone must be glued correctly.


Advantages and disadvantages of decorative stone

Popularity decorative panels due to their positive properties, the most important of which are:

  • the widest range of color solutions;
  • small weight;
  • ease of installation;
  • the ability to recreate the most accurate imitation of natural material masonry;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • compressive and bending strength;
  • the features of the components that make up the decorative stone allow you to regulate the microclimate in the room;
  • resistance to impact high temperatures;
  • long service life;
  • low compared to natural stone, price;
  • Almost any available adhesive composition is suitable for installation;
  • texture, pleasant to tactile contact.

The disadvantage of this building material is its fragility - if you hit it, it will crack.


Tools and materials

To cover the walls with decorative stone yourself, you will need the following tools:

  • rope;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • saw;
  • hacksaw;
  • file or sandpaper;
  • drill;
  • a long ruler (preferably one or two meters);
  • pencil;
  • spatula for applying adhesive;
  • brush with metal bristles;
  • roller (brush) for applying primer;
  • a wooden spatula with a base width of 6 to 8 cm, intended for grouting joints.

Adhesive compositions

The quality of adhesion of surfaces and the service life of the cladding will depend on how correctly the glue is selected.

can be produced on following types compositions:

  • dry cement mixture;
  • acrylic;
  • "liquid nails";
  • thick rubbed paint;
  • tile adhesive;
  • putty;
  • mastic
  • polymer assembly sealant;


Advice! When choosing, be sure to consider the type of base, how convenient it will be to apply a particular adhesion material and the reputation of the manufacturer.

The most popular brands of adhesive compositions used for cladding surfaces with artificial decorative boards:

  • Ceresit;
  • "Unice Plus";
  • "Creps";
  • "Acrylic";
  • Confiad;
  • Litokol;
  • Corian.


Surface and Material Preparation

You can attach gypsum tiles to almost any surface: brick, concrete or wooden walls, metal, plaster and glass. The main requirement that will provide high-quality installation, is the strength, dryness and cleanliness of the base.

Surface preparation:

  1. Remove any remaining old cladding. You will need to remove the glue and plaster.
  2. Clean with metal brush base surface.
  3. Apply an acrylic-based primer to the surface deep penetration. After this, leave the wall to dry according to the instructions for the primer.

Advice! If the wall is wooden, then install reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

The next step will be preparing the material for cladding. Initially, you will need to calculate the area of ​​the cladding. The standard overconsumption of material is 10%, which must be kept in mind when calculating required quantity material.


Preparation of material:

  1. Cut the artificial stone into pieces of the desired configuration and size using a saw or hacksaw.
  2. Clean the cut areas with a file or sandpaper to give them a natural look.
  3. Lubricate the back side of the stone slabs with the same primer that was used to treat the walls. Leave to dry.
  4. Apply paint to the facing material and let it dry. You will need to use several shades.

Gluing instructions

Two technologies are used for laying decorative stone: seamless and with jointing. Pick up best option necessary before installation begins in order to correctly calculate the amount of material.

Important! With a seamless installation method, stone consumption increases by 10-15%.


Principle of implementation facing works very similar for both technologies:

  1. Place gypsum tiles (artificial stone) on the floor next to the facing area in the same order as they will be placed on the wall. This will make it possible to see the final result of the finishing and make the necessary adjustments.
  2. Mark the wall surface to ensure the most accurate placement of the material.
  3. Carefully study the instructions for the adhesive composition and only then proceed to dilute the solution. This is important, since ready-made mixtures have a limited shelf life.
  4. Prepare the glue. It should turn out without lumps, not too thick, flowing, but not sticky.
  5. If the mixture is used cement based, then it must be applied to the wall in a layer with a maximum thickness of 6 mm. Do not cover more than one area with glue. square meter at the same time - to prevent the glue from drying out.
  6. Apply the solution in spots on the back side of the tiles (6-8 points each) or in wavy strips if the chosen adhesive composition is a polymer assembly sealant.
  7. Start gluing the decorative stone from the bottom from any corner where it will be more convenient.
  8. Press each tile into the wall mortar so that it protrudes around the edges of the piece. Press the material onto the surface as tightly as possible.
  9. If you choose a laying method with seams, then do not make gaps between the tiles more than one centimeter. With the seamless technique, the edges of the fragments should fit as closely as possible to each other.
  10. Fill the seams between the tiles with the special grout or adhesive that was used for installation. In some cases, glue squeezed out along the edges is enough to level the surface and seal the seams.
  11. Grind the seams after the grout or glue has begun to set, but you cannot wait until the composition has completely hardened. It should be borne in mind that the approximate time for complete hardening for various products varies from 10 minutes to half an hour.
  12. Treat the paneled surface with acrylic or polyurethane varnish. This will ensure reliable protection from exposure to moisture and long-term operation. For the same purposes, you can use any product that has water-repellent properties.
  13. Complete drying of the surface covered with gypsum tiles is achieved within three to four days.

Advice! Gypsum stone is a lightweight material that is excellently attached to vertical surfaces. But it’s still better to start gluing tiles from the very bottom row. This will make it possible to make the lines as even as possible with a seamless installation method and prevent individual fragments from slipping.

How to paste on wallpaper

Despite its relative lightness, decorative stone is heavy wall covering. Therefore, it is not recommended to mount it on top of wallpaper. Otherwise, there is a high risk that gypsum panels They will fall away from the wall and collapse.


If the design includes a combination of wallpaper and decorative stone, you will need to leave bare areas under the panels. It is recommended to mark the walls in advance so that when installing wallpaper you do not cover the places where the decorative stone will be attached.

The surface must be prepared for wallpapering and stone installation: it is leveled and treated with a primer. The artificial stone is fixed only after the wallpaper has been pasted, and not on top of it, but on the remaining free areas of the wall.

If you need to install decorative panels on a wall whose surface is completely covered with wallpaper, follow the instructions:

  1. Mark with a pencil on the surface of the wall the places where you plan to install the stone, retreat 1-3 cm and outline the border. The indentation is needed so that the wallpaper slightly extends under the gypsum panels and there is no unsightly gap left between the two types of cladding.
  2. Using a sharp knife or blade, cut out the circled sections and remove the wallpaper in those areas.
  3. Prepare the adhesive solution and fix the slabs to the wall according to the instructions.
  4. Treat the paneled surface with a special varnish.

If for some reason you need to install the decorative stone first, and only then the wallpaper, use one of two methods:

  1. Attach all the slabs to the wall except the last, top row. Then glue the wallpaper, making a spade on the area under the stone. Finally, install the last row of gypsum boards.
  2. Lay all the slabs, without exception. Paste the wallpaper with a margin of 5-7 cm (depending on the type of trellis). After complete drying sharp knife trim off the excess by running along the seam. Close the resulting seam decorative plinth(baguette).

Advice! If you are using liquid wallpaper rather than paper, then you don’t need a spade under the slabs: the joint will already be neat.


Decorative stone looks good without any tricks. However, there are several secrets on how to give the final finish a designer look:

  1. The tiled surface looks harmonious if the sequence of laid elements of different shades and sizes is chosen correctly. When using slabs of the same size, it is necessary to accurately maintain the evenness of the lines diagonally, vertically and horizontally.
  2. Trimming the corners of individual fragments will give maximum attractiveness to the finish.
  3. The seams must be sealed with extreme care and a special bag for filling voids or a syringe gun must be used for this. The fact is that what gets on the front surface of artificial decorative slabs The solution is extremely difficult to remove.

Installation of artificial stone is simple and does not require significant costs, but work at all stages should be done as carefully as possible. In addition, you need to pay close attention to compatibility color shades and sizes, only in this case the finishing will please the eye.

Natural stone has rightfully been considered the most popular at all times. building material. Granite, marble, sandstone, dolomite, and limestone serve as a reliable and unusually beautiful basis for the construction of foundations and houses, arrangement of reservoirs and paving paths, creation of architectural elements and improvement of buildings. No less popular in recent years use artificial analogues natural stone, which have the same aesthetic appearance, but have higher quality characteristics. Laying decorative stone is a simple procedure that can be completed by anyone who has even the slightest idea about finishing work.

Technology for laying artificial and natural stones that have the correct geometric shape, is based on the already familiar principles of bricklaying. But to work with “wild” stones, known for their imperfect shape, you still need to have additional knowledge and skills.

Stone laying can be done either on the basis of a binder and fastening mortar, or without its use. Based on this, in construction a distinction is made between “wet” and “dry” masonry methods.

A characteristic feature of “dry” masonry is the thorough selection of the most matching stones and meticulous adjustment of them to each other

“Dry” technology is especially complex when working with natural “torn” stones, each of which has its own thickness, height and width. To increase the durability and reliability of the masonry, all gaps between the stones are filled with earth or fastening materials. construction mixtures. This method is often used in the construction of low fences and fences, as well as when laying curb stone. Here is an example of “dry masonry”:

“Wet” masonry is used in the construction of tall buildings, which are solid monolithic structures. This method of masonry is simpler to implement, since it does not require careful adjustment of adjacent elements.

Fills cracks and voids between stones mortar ensures the strength and stability of any building

Most natural stones have an irregular “ragged” shape. When selecting stones, it is important to consider the load. Stone tiles, the thickness of which does not exceed 1-2 cm, is used for cladding vertical planes and facades. When arranging areas with high traffic, it is enough to use stones about 2 cm thick as a covering. And for areas where heavy structures and equipment are supposed to be placed, you need to take stones more than 4 cm thick.

Rubble natural stone masonry

The length of rubble stones varies, usually in the range of 150-500 mm. Hard and durable stones are well suited for arranging foundations, hydraulic structures and other buildings. Rubble stone is thoroughly cleaned before laying. Large cobblestones are split and crushed into small pieces.

For rubble laying wild stone do it yourself with unprocessed large pieces of rock: shell rock, granite, dolomite, tuff, sandstone, limestone

To work with natural stone you will need: a – a sledgehammer, b – a small hammer, c – a metal tamper, d – a wooden tamper

During the plinting process, boulders are crushed using a 5 kg sledgehammer and the sharp corners of small stones are chipped using a 2.3 kg hammer. This is roughly how it's done:

During construction vertical structures the largest and most stable stones are installed as the base in the bottom row. They are also used when arranging corners and crossing walls. When laying subsequent rows, you must ensure that the seams are slightly offset relative to each other. This will increase the strength and reliability of the structure being built.

The solution is spread on the stones with a slight excess. During the laying process, the stones are sunk into the cement mortar using a hammer-cam. After compaction, the excess spreads along the vertical seams between the stones. The gaps between the boulders are filled with crushed stone and small stones. The most neat looking seams are those whose width along the length of the row is no more than 10-15 mm.

Advice. If the solution gets on the front of the stone, do not immediately wipe it with a wet rag - this will only lead to the pores of the stone becoming clogged. It is better to leave the solution for a while so that it hardens, and then remove it with a spatula and wipe the surface of the stone with a dry cloth.

Since bandaging the seams of rubble and boulders irregular shape It is very problematic to perform; when laying natural stone, it is necessary to alternately place rows of tie and spoon stones.

This ligation is based on the principle of chain ligation, which is often used when laying bricks. Thanks to this technology, the structure is stronger and more durable.

At the final stage, it is necessary to grout the joints using a spatula and, if necessary, rinse the coating with running water.

As an example of this “wet” technology, you can show the following fragment of work:

Production and rules for laying artificial stone

As an example of making artificial stone with your own hands, we would like to offer you this video instruction in 2 parts:

Now we can talk about installation rules. In the process of laying artificial stone, you can use the method “with or without jointing”.

In the first option, when laying stones, a distance of 1-2 cm is maintained between them, in the second, the stones are compacted close to each other

Most artificial stones are rectangular in shape. Therefore, brick laying technology can be applied to working with them. “Spoon” laying is a method of laying bricks in which it is placed with its long edge towards outside structures, and “poke” masonry – when the stone is located with a narrow edge.

About the construction of structures made of artificial stone is most often used classic way, in which, during the “spoon” laying process, each subsequent row is placed with a slight offset of bricks relative to the previous one.

With this method of dressing, the vertical seams of nearby rows do not coincide, thereby increasing the strength of the building

Among the most popular decorative ways Stone masonry can also be distinguished: Flemish, English and American.

Decorative stones are used not so much for the construction of buildings and the creation of elements landscape design, but rather for their design. The basis for their production is porcelain stoneware, agglomerate or cement mortar.

The outer surface of facing artificial stones can repeat the features of any natural stone: marble, limestone, slate...

So that the lined surface retains its aesthetic appearance over a long period of time, when laying decorative stone it is necessary to follow a number of recommendations:

  • Think over the “pattern” of the masonry in advance. Alternating shapes and sizes of stones made in light and dark shades, will give the surface a natural and at the same time more attractive appearance.
  • Strictly follow masonry technology. Unlike stones used for construction, decorative stones should be laid out in rows, starting from the top and going down. This will prevent glue from getting on the outer surface of the stone, which is difficult to clean.
  • Use the adhesive specified by the manufacturer of the facing stone. Glue solution It is applied using a spatula both on the base and on the back side of the stone.

Laying is done on a leveled, grease-free surface. For better adhesion, the base should be moistened with water. The tile with the applied adhesive composition must be pressed tightly against the surface of the base using vibrating movements and fixed for a couple of seconds. During installation, long vertical seams should be avoided.

After installation is completed, in order for the decorative stone to last as long as possible, it is advisable to cover it with a protective primer or water repellent.

Finishing the surfaces of walls or facades can improve their visual condition. There are quite a few ways to implement it. But some surfaces have restrictions on total weight which they can withstand, for example, this applies to plasterboard partitions. In this case, it is necessary to select a finish that is light in weight and at the same time has high aesthetic values.

One option is gypsum stone. How is such a stone laid and is it possible to make it yourself? This will be discussed in the article.

Pros and cons of products

The correct approach to processing any material is ensured by understanding its nuances. That is why there is a need to consider the positive and negative aspects this type of finishing. Among the advantages of gypsum stone are:

  • light weight;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • ease of giving the required shape;
  • softness;
  • low cost;
  • ease of installation;
  • hypoallergenic;
  • possibility of painting;
  • possibility of self-production;
  • fire safety;
  • long service life;
  • UV resistance.

True to its name, gypsum stone consists entirely of natural ingredients. Due to its structure, gypsum is light in weight, which makes it possible to place this type of finishing on surfaces that have limited space. maximum weight. Since the components finishing material are natural, we can talk about the high environmental friendliness of the product, which allows finishing not only external but also internal walls.

The stone is quite soft, so it can be shaped and processed at will. This does not require special tools with diamond coating, a regular hacksaw will suffice.

If you make such a stone yourself, then its cost will be equal to the cost of the base, shapes and time spent on production. But even finished copies have low price, which allows you to give your walls an attractive appearance on a small budget. Installation is also not particularly difficult and does not require unique skills.

The technique can be mastered quite quickly. The main requirement is the correct choice of glue that will be used during the installation process. You can use such a stone for decoration even if someone in the family suffers from allergies. The composition contains no harmful impurities that could affect the human immune system.

At self-production or when purchasing, options are available in white. Individual gypsum elements can be painted independently using the required shade, which allows you to adjust the color of the stone to the overall background, and not vice versa. Gypsum stone does not burn or melt, so when exposed to high temperatures, you do not have to worry about the possibility of a fire.

The service life will be limited only by the mechanical impact that will be exerted on the stone during operation. The stone is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, so it can be installed in areas exposed to the sun.

The number of disadvantages compared to the advantages is small, but they also exist:

  • low strength;
  • instability to moisture.

With a certain amount of force, gypsum stone can be broken by hand. This indicator hints that it is better not to use it in places where it is intended mechanical impact onto the surface that has been decorated. It is impossible to restore the element, so you will have to make considerable efforts to replace it with a new one if it is damaged.

Due to its porous structure, gypsum stone is afraid of moisture and allows it to pass through well. This means that it is generally not used on surfaces that are exposed to precipitation. The disadvantage can be partially mitigated by using special coloring compounds that create a protective film on the surface of the stone.

Installation process

Before initiating the process of covering the surface with gypsum decorative stone, it is necessary to carry out a certain preparatory work. One of its points is to calculate the required amount of material. It's quite easy to define. To do this, you will need to find out the average area of ​​one of the elements. Average, because individual elements may differ in size from each other.

The next step is to determine the total area of ​​the site on which the gypsum stone will be laid. To do this, you need to apply a suitable geometric figure and calculate its area. The next step is to divide the area of ​​the site by the area of ​​one stone. This way the number of required elements becomes known. The following elements will be required from the material and tools:

  • gypsum glue;
  • regular spatula;
  • notched spatula;
  • primer;
  • miter box with saw;
  • tape measure and level;
  • roller with container.

One more step preparatory process is to bring the surface for gluing to the required form. It is easier to install stone on a plastered wall. The area where installation will be carried out is treated with a deep penetration primer. In some cases, it may be necessary to apply several layers if absorption occurs too quickly. It is easy to use a roller and a container for these purposes.

Stone can be glued using special compounds developed for gypsum. decorative items. If there is tile adhesive in the remains, then it can be used during the work process. At the same time, PVA glue is added to it, which should amount to approximately 9% of the total volume. When using tile adhesive for gypsum stone, it is worth remembering that the latter may slightly change its color due to porosity.

Laying begins from the starting row. It is important to lay it out as evenly as possible. To achieve this, you will need a tape measure, a level and a chokeline or dye cord. Two points are marked along the edges of the site, which should be located on same height. A dye cord is stretched between the points and a line is marked. It can also be drawn along a level if it is of sufficient length. The glue can be applied to two surfaces at once. In this case, it must be distributed over the planes with a notched trowel. After application, the stone is firmly applied to the marked area and fixed briefly.

If there is a need to adjust a separate gypsum element or cut its end at an angle, then use a miter box and a hacksaw with small tooth. The treated surface on the stone is sanded with fine sandpaper. Laying continues in this manner until the last gypsum element. Some people prefer to place the gypsum elements closely so that there are no seams between them, while others deliberately leave a seam in order to subsequently fill it with sealant or grout.

Excess glue that has come out is removed with a damp sponge; if this is not done immediately, it will be quite problematic later. The final stage of laying decorative gypsum stone can be considered its coloring, which is carried out various types paints, to fix the coating, acrylic varnish is applied on top.

Self-production

The process of making gypsum stone does not require special effort and specialized premises. All work can be carried out in a garage or other utility room. The main components that are required are water and gypsum or alabaster. To speed up the process, a specialized thickener is also added, as well as a pigment, which makes it possible not to paint the stone after installation. It will not be possible to complete the matter without special forms. They can be purchased at a hardware store. They are made of polyurethane or silicone. The shape and relief are selected depending on personal preferences.

Advice! Additionally, you will need a special composition for processing molds. Its purpose is to simplify the removal of finished gypsum elements from the molds.

A small amount of water is poured into the prepared container. Plaster is poured into it. It is worth doing exactly in this order so that the plaster in the form of dust does not scatter throughout the room. After this, you can start mixing the composition. It will be easier to do this with a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment. You should monitor the consistency during the process. It should not be thick, because it will not be able to completely replicate the relief of the shape. Too liquid will take a long time to dry. Gypsum mixture should pour freely into the prepared form. If there is a need for coloring, then the pigment is added at this stage so that the color is uniform over the entire surface. Stir until all lumps disappear.

Advice! Having achieved the required consistency of the mixture, you need to remember the proportions so that the next batches of stone are identical.

Before pouring, the mold is coated with a special compound. After this, the gypsum stone molds are carefully filled with the mixture. There are bubbles in it, to get rid of them you need to move the mold a little or place it on a vibration table. All that remains is to wait for the setting process, remove the stones from the molds and sand the edges, after which you can begin installation. There is a video about painting gypsum stone below.

Resume

As you can see, installing gypsum stone is quite simple. Due to the fact that you can make gypsum stone with your own hands, it is easy to adjust its parameters to the required area, which will be faced later. Gypsum stone can be painted in such a way that it will be difficult to distinguish it from natural stone. Gypsum stone looks good when combined with other types of finishes, for example, textured plaster.

Decorative stone can add maximum sophistication, chic and originality to both the interior and exterior. It combines an aesthetic appearance and excellent performance characteristics.

But, in order to decorative element interior has served as long as possible, while maintaining an excellent appearance, you need to know important rules and some nuances of stone laying. More on this later in the article.

Decorative stone - an exquisite interior element

Decorative stone looks great in the decoration of fireplaces, doors and window openings. It also combines flawlessly with a variety of ways to organize aquariums and fountains, as well as indoor plants. Of course, when mentioning stone walls A living room with a fireplace and classic-style furniture immediately comes to mind.

If you decide to add a touch of chic and aristocracy to your interior by decorating the entire wall or a separate part with decorative stone, then you should remember its important feature. To illuminate such a room, much more light will be required, since insufficient lighting the decoration will seem too gloomy. However, alternating finishing with decorative stone and light colors will solve this problem a little. plain wallpaper, paint or plaster.

Advantages of decorative stone

Firstly, decorative stone in your interior will be a wonderful highlight that guests will immediately notice.

Secondly, it is very easy to work with, thanks to light weight And correct forms. In addition, the stone does not require special care; any detergent will be sufficient.

Thirdly, decorative stone is an environmentally friendly material; it is resistant to corrosion, fungal and other bacteria.

Fourthly, it is very reliable, so it will serve you for many years, while maintaining all its qualities

Fifthly, a wide choice of colors, structure and style of execution allows you to create an interior that fully satisfies all your desires and needs.

Types of decorative stone

The most common are decorative stones based on:

Decorative stones made of gypsum are not able to withstand high humidity, so they are usually used in rooms with low humidity, for example, in the bedroom, corridor or living room. Decorative stones made from cement mortar, on the contrary, are moisture resistant, so they can be used in the bathroom, kitchen, etc.

Today, artificial decorative stones imitating brick and slate are widely used.

Brick fits perfectly into the interior of a balcony, bedroom and corridor, and can create both strict and fashion design premises.

Slate is the only type of decorative stone that creates a continuous stone surface. Each element of slate has a bright individuality and a composition made from such a stone looks very impressive and charming.

Sandstone, limestone, marble, and granite are very popular among natural decorative stones.

The color palette of marble is very wide; the most popular colors are brown, black, red, beige and, of course, white. Even the most picky person will not remain indifferent to such a decorative stone.

Sandstone can be coarse-, medium- and fine-grained, its color palette consists of three shades: red, green and chocolate. The layout of it is simple - hewn sandstone stones are laid in a mosaic pattern, uniform alternation of horizontal and vertical elements.

Limestone is an alloy of stone various sizes, laid in a horizontal row. It can be yellowish, white, gray and pink.

Preparatory work

Before installing decorative stone, it is important to carefully prepare the surface. First you need to remove the remnants of old wallpaper, paint, stains, grease, etc. Ideal flat surface You don’t have to try, since the stone will hide all the flaws. It is more important to check surface adhesion. Spray the wall with water and pay attention to those areas where the water does not absorb, but forms drops (if there are any, of course). These places should be thoroughly mechanically processed, then the surface should be checked again for “sticking”.

Before you start laying the facing stone, lay out the future design on a flat surface; this will help you see how the composition will look on the wall and eliminate confusion and awkward designs during the work process.

Decorative stone laying technology

General rules

In order to lay decorative stone with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a design education; it is enough to trust your intuition and imagination, the rest will be completed by the finishing material itself.

Installation of finishing stone should be done at a temperature of +5 C to + 30 C. If the temperature is higher, then 25-30 minutes before starting work, the surface and back of the stone should be moistened with water.

Before starting installation, inspect the decorative stone; very often its shade depends on the side of the inspection. It’s better to ask the manufacturer which side is best to lay it out.

First, you need to make markings on the wall in increments of less than fifty centimeters in order to have an idea of ​​how the stone will be placed and where to make adjustments to the joining decorative elements.

Tools required for laying decorative stone: construction mixer, level, spatula, block for leveling stones, iron brush, small brush, bucket of water, special brush for cleaning seams.

For laying decorative stone, glue, sealant or liquid nails are suitable.

It is best to start gluing tile elements from the bottom of the corner.

The most important part of the work is giving the composition bizarre shapes. This requires imagination, a knife, pliers and sandpaper.

If you need to adjust the stones to size, then use grinder, a special hacksaw or pliers, then use sandpaper to bring the surface to perfect look. If there is a foamed cement base, it is important to remove it.

You should add tile adhesive so that you can use the entire mass within 15-20 minutes, since after this the glue will begin to harden. The consistency of the glue should be creamy, for example, like toothpaste. Apply the adhesive mixture to a thickness of 3-4 cm using a notched trowel.

During installation, the stone should be pressed with relatively high force so that excess adhesive comes out, but it is important to ensure that the adhesive does not get on the face of the stone, as it will be quite difficult to remove.

Some decorative stones are not the same size. In this case, for a more impressive look, place them in a chaotic order. Remember, decorative stone does not like to rush, as the rows can simply “float”. This material can also be used outdoors. However, it is best to install it in warm weather and using special glue.

Methods for laying decorative stone

Stone can be laid with or without seams, it depends on personal wishes.

A seamless option for laying decorative stone is simpler and faster.

Finishing stones should be laid out as densely as possible, resulting in an almost monolithic surface. During work, it is important to ensure that excess glue is removed in a timely manner, otherwise it will be difficult to do this in the future.

The process of laying decorative stone with jointing is more labor-intensive. However, this option is the most popular, as it looks more impressive.

The stones are attached next to each other at a certain distance. To make perfect seams in the composition between the rows of stones, lay identical pieces of plasterboard or fiberboard no more than 1 cm wide.

After all the stones have been attached and the glue has completely dried (about 1 day), they begin to putty the seams. In order to facilitate this process, you can fill, for example, a milk carton with putty and, after making a small hole, carefully squeeze the mixture exactly into the seam. Then we take an ordinary sponge, remove excess putty and thoroughly wipe the stone.

Finishing

To preserve their performance properties, decorative stones should be treated with a protective impregnation varnish, which is usually supplied along with the stone. But, before applying this protective layer, you need to thoroughly clean the surface of various contaminants and dust. Before applying varnish to the entire decorative composition, perform a trial treatment of unused stone. If you are completely satisfied with the level of shine, then you can proceed to processing all the stones on the wall. If the gloss level is insufficient, then cover the surface with an additional layer of acrylic clear varnish. If, on the contrary, the gloss level is too high, then dilute the impregnation varnish with ordinary water.

If you want to make your interior more decorative, you can paint the surface of the decorative stones with paint of more expressive color shades.

If you carry out the decoration yourself, then the cost of laying decorative stone, of course, depends on the height of the stone, the thickness, width and height of the elements, surface topography, type of glue and grout. If you decide to use the help of a professional, then the price of the work, in addition to the nuances listed above, also depends on the qualifications of the specialist and the complexity of the installation.

Laying decorative stone - photos of finished compositions:

Mistakes when laying decorative stone

The most common errors when laying decorative stone:

  • the seam between the stones is too wide, which spoils general impression about decorative composition;
  • poorly primed wall, which can lead to some stones falling off;
  • scratches, chips and other damage to the decorative stone during cutting will spoil the appearance of the cladding;
  • an irresponsible attitude to the finishing rows will greatly spoil the appearance of the installation;
  • the wrong choice of shade and texture of decorative stone can negatively affect the entire interior of the room.

Although laying decorative stone with your own hands does not require any special knowledge, treat this process responsibly, and you will be very pleased with the result.

Laying decorative stone - video:

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