Installing a toilet with your own hands is quite easy and quick. There are no special subtleties here, you just need to correctly connect it to the drain hole and drill two holes in the floor. You just need to adhere to a certain order and take into account a few nuances, details of which can be found in the article below or watch a video tutorial: how to install a toilet with your own hands.
What tools will you need?
Before starting work, you must minimum set tools. This is where any decent video about installing a toilet with your own hands will start. In order not to discover a shortage of any tool right during work, which will be very unpleasant, you need to make a list of what you need in advance and, if something is missing, buy it in addition. We will need:
- Ratchet with head;
- Construction gun for applying silicone;
- Kern;
- Phillips and flat head screwdriver;
- Electric drill with perforation;
- Adjustable wrench;
- Tubular head for installing faucets;
- Small adjustable wrench;
- A set of drills of different diameters;
- Hammer;
- Silicone, fum tape and tow.
Sewage and water supply
First, you should worry about drainage. The drain hole should be slightly lower than the flare of the toilet itself to ensure proper drainage. For this you can use corrugated pipe, which is perfect if there is no way to remove the drain opposite the socket of the toilet itself. Or you can use an ABU pipe, since they will not linger on smooth walls various kinds substances.
Since the toilet requires cold water to flush, it is also worth taking care of an additional outlet. It will be connected to the toilet via a flexible hose, thanks to which it can be easily hidden or placed where it is more convenient for you.
Toilet installation
After the sewer hole is ready, it is necessary to connect the toilet to it in the way it will then stand. Next, you need to mark on the floor where the anchor bolts will be attached. To do this, insert a pencil directly into the toilet mounting hole and twist it to mark the edges. As a result, you should get the same result as in the video about installing a new toilet, namely two even circles on the floor. Then we simply move the toilet to the side.
Now we take the core in our hands, place it in the center of the circle and lightly hit it from above with a hammer. If you, like everyone else, have tiles on the floor, knock lightly and very carefully so that they do not crack. Why is this necessary? It's simple: the drill will simply slide along a smooth surface and the hole will definitely move, and this way you will drill exactly where you intended.
Once outlined, select a drill to match the diameter of the anchor bolt and begin drilling two holes in the floor strictly at right angles. It’s better to measure several times and even pick up a level. If the hole turns out to be crooked, the bolt will certainly move, and the load on the mounting hole will be distributed incorrectly, which can cause a crack. This information is not often found on video. correct installation DIY toilet bowl, but it’s worth listening to her.
The next step is to hammer the dowels into the floor. Again, be careful not to damage the tiles with the hammer.
Tip: in this case, you can take a small wooden peg or just hammer it in completely wooden handle the hammer itself.
Next, you need to prepare the drain pipe and drainage system. We wind the hose to the outlet under the water, having previously wrapped the threads with fum tape. We insert all the seals into the drain, and it work surface, like the edge of the toilet bowl, we treat it with silicone. This will make it easier to insert the toilet pipe and will seal it later. You can check the correct operation by watching how to install the toilet yourself in the video.
Then we put the toilet in its place, insert the toilet flare tightly into drain pipe. Screw on the water supply hose. Now you can secure the toilet in its place with anchor bolts. And we put plugs on the screwed mount.
Important: when installing the toilet in place, make sure that the mounting holes line up with the dowels in the floor. Otherwise, after sealing, it will be very difficult to redo the work.
Now you need to treat the area where the floor comes into contact with the toilet. In many videos about installing a toilet yourself, you will learn that there are no ideal surfaces. This applies to both tiles and toilets. To prevent liquid from flowing under it and dirt from accumulating under it, the contour must be treated with a sealant.
Tip: excess must be removed immediately with a rag or toilet paper.
Almost any toilet installation in the video ends with the installation of the toilet lid. We connect the lid to the rim and insert the brackets into the holes. Then we put a rubber seal on them and insert them with long screws into the grooves on the toilet. We position them so that the edges of the lid do not protrude, and then screw them on.
Today it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without such an important and necessary plumbing device as a toilet. Many people have already had to install it, or at least watch a professional do it. If you just have to do this work, then you should familiarize yourself with all the intricacies and learn the technology correct installation. It is also very important to know what is needed - what materials and devices may be needed. The final result and the lifespan of the device will depend on how well you prepare.
Necessary materials for installing a toilet
At first it may seem that installing a toilet to communications is a fairly simple process that anyone can perform. However, it is very easy to make a mistake in this matter, which can be costly. If you do not read the instructions and act inattentively, the equipment may be damaged. This should under no circumstances be allowed to happen. Let's take a closer look at what tools and materials you will need for your work:
- Corrugated pipe, which is used to connect the toilet to the sewer system.
- Flexible hose of a certain length. Through it, cold water will be supplied to the tank.
- Ball valve, with which the water supply will be adjusted.
- Silicone sealant. All joints and joints are treated with it.
- Sealing tape required for tightness inlet pipe water supply, if there is an internal thread.
- Cement for leveling bathroom floors, if necessary.
- Toilet fasteners, which most often come with the product. It usually comes with bolts, plastic dowels, spacers and bolt caps, and screws.
If the toilet package does not include all these devices, you will need to purchase them yourself.
List of tools for plumbing installation
But installing a toilet on a tile slab cannot be done without the following tools:
- Hammer or drill;
- Drills of two types – for concrete and for ceramics;
- An adjustable wrench, which is used to install the hose;
- Core for chipping on ceramic tiles, it will reduce the sliding of the drill;
- Hammer for driving dowels;
- Rubber spatula to remove excess silicone sealant;
- A pencil, which will have to outline the contour of the base of the toilet, and also mark the places where the bolts are attached;
- The screwdriver you will use to tighten the fasteners.
If you don't just install new toilet, and make a replacement, you will also have to dismantle the old device. And in this case, you may also need to level the damaged floor surface. Be that as it may, before starting work, be sure to disconnect the plumbing fixture from the water supply system.
How is a toilet installed?
After everything Finishing work were completed and the floor surface was leveled, installation began. In order to connect the plumbing fixture to the sewer system, a corrugated pipe is needed. One end of it is put on drain pipe toilet, and the other - to the sewer outlet pipe.
It’s good if the pipe outlet coincides with the drain, then you can do without a corrugated pipe. Here the connecting element is a rubber seal with edging. If you want to use a sealant, then under no circumstances cement the place where the drain goes into the sewer.
How to ensure water flow to the cistern? You will need it flexible hose. It is screwed onto a water tap that supplies water to the inlet of the tank. Then you need to make sure that the diameter of the fasteners on both ends of the hose is the same.
Once the connection is made, you can begin to mount the device to the floor or wall. This depends on the type of plumbing fixture. Of course, the toilet needs to be assembled first. When the base is securely mounted into the floor, a tank is attached to it and a pipe is supplied from the hanging tank, which is fixed to the wall.
After this work is completed, you need to test the operation of the device and also adjust the tank. To do this, turn on the water, which should fill the tank. By adjusting the float, adjust the water level that you need. Then water can be constantly collected in a certain amount. The lid is attached. To do this, in the upper area of the bowl on the side from the wall, fasteners are mounted in the holes provided by the manufacturer.
Features and methods of fixing the toilet
Now we know what is needed to install a toilet and it’s time to consider the process of installing the plumbing fixture in its rightful place. There are three main ways to install a toilet to the floor:
- Fastening using dowels or anchors that are poured into the screed;
- Fastening to a wooden base, which was mounted in a screed using screws;
- Fastening to the floor on epoxy resin.
Professionals offer the following tips for installing a toilet in all these cases. Consider the option of fastening using anchor bolts, as well as on a wooden base. It is very convenient if it is carried out at the same time major renovation floor in the bathroom. Then these two procedures can be combined while the screed is being formed on the floor.
Anchors are placed in the place where the device should be placed and where it is supposed to be fastened. They should protrude 5-6 cm above the surface of the screed. It will be better if you have to cut off the excess than the length of the anchors is not enough. Then it will be impossible to fasten the nut to it.
The wooden stand must fully correspond to the size and contours of the base. Following a checkerboard pattern, nails are driven into it over the entire area. They should come out from the other side. Now the board can be turned over and installed where the toilet will be located.
The screed is poured with concrete so that only outer side stands. The toilet is placed on the base and screws are inserted into the holes. If you need to fix the toilet on a tiled floor, then resort to the following technique. To prevent cracking of the tiles, rubber washers are placed on the dowels and anchors. This will also help against unsightly rust stains on the floor. In this case, it is best to choose anchors or bolts with a nickel plated finish. This way, it will be easy for you to remove the fasteners when they fail and need to be replaced.
If you are not changing the tiled floor, and there is no way to mount the device in the screed, then what is required to install the toilet in this case? It would be ideal to install it using dowels or epoxy resin. In this case, the coating will not be damaged.
In order to use dowels, you must first make holes through the tiles and screed, where you will screw the screws. To ensure that the waterproofing of the floor is not compromised, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the holes. If the screed is too thin, you need to pour a little silicone sealant into these holes. It is better that the screws are “dressed” in rubber washers, then they will not scratch the floor during the tightening process.
It is better if the base of the toilet and the floor are separated by a layer of sealant. It must be applied before tightening the bolts. If you don't want to use any fasteners, then resin will help you out. This method is also suitable if the installation will be carried out on a wall.
Before applying the resin, the floor must be sanded using sandpaper. This will roughen the surface and help the two surfaces bond better. The adhesive base is applied to the toilet and the floor thin layer, just a couple of millimeters. Do not touch the toilet until the resin has completely dried.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet
Lately it has been gaining more and more popularity. It is easy to install it yourself. The advantage of this installation is that there are no unsightly marks left on the floor from the fastenings or any traces at all. The toilet is mounted on a frame made of metal profiles. It is installed on a load-bearing wall. The tank and pipes can easily be hidden behind a false plasterboard wall.
If the frame is not provided for in the design, then the toilet can be attached directly to the wall. But then, most likely, you will have to move the sewer pipe inside the wall. The device is mounted using anchors.
The toilet has long become an integral feature of a comfortable apartment or house. Gone are the “latrines”. Now available for purchase in construction supermarkets and online stores huge assortment plumbing fixtures: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, wall-hung, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, you can install any equipment yourself.
Do I need to install the toilet myself?
Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, be it Management Company or an office offering installation services on an outsourcing basis. However (at least for the most common toilet models), installing such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you monitor the work of the specialists involved and allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.
Types of toilets
In large supermarkets, display cases with toilets sometimes take up several dozen linear meters. However, with all the diversity of the range, almost all toilet designs are no different from each other. A modern toilet consists of several main parts.
- Actually bowls. It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different water flush technology (direct or circular), with different designs its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor-standing, suspended or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even heating).
- Sewage from the toilet bowl, together with water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line using various configurations of pipes and adapters.
- Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern . This device may also have various options installation (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).
Typically, plumbing fixtures come with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances installation of such equipment is not described in the documents.
If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be dismantling the old equipment.
Removing the old toilet yourself
Dismantling work looks simpler than installing equipment, but during its implementation some rules must be followed.
Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest ones, for example, chlorine-containing ones (“Whiteness”). Before starting work, put on protective gloves and possibly safety glasses. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.
Step 2. Turn off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet tank.
Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may approach the reservoir from the bottom, side, or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.
Step 4. We unscrew the screws that secure the toilet to the floor. In old houses, the bolts may become stuck tightly, so that they will have to be cut off or even the toilet bowl may be broken. You may have to remove the toilet from its attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Be patient and use pliers. If you intend to leave the old tiles on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.
Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.
Now you have access to the toilet installation location. Let's skip the installation plastic sewer(noting that the location of the inlet neck of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe) we will proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.
How to install a compact toilet with your own hands
For installation of a standard compact toilet, consisting of a bowl and cistern, we carry out operations in the following sequence.
Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. If necessary, we clean it. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a rag or plastic wrap.
Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of the appropriate size.
Step 3. The toilet may come with a “heel” - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.
Step 4. We carefully place the compact toilet in its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to the furniture, and to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.
Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet and the location of future holes in the floor for mounting screws.
Step 6. Move the compact toilet to the side and begin drilling holes.
- In the event that you have already laid on the floor tile , then her upper layer drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with an impact drill.
- If the toilet is installed on wooden surface – holes are formed with a regular drill on wood.
- If you have it in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut into it until it has a solid overlap with a sharp knife.
Step 7. IN drilled holes install dowels.
Step 8. Place the base of the toilet on seat and screw the screws into the dowels. The perimeter of the toilet base can be treated with sealant to prevent moisture penetration.
Step 9. We remove the rag or polyethylene plug from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.
Connecting the tank to the compact toilet
There are models of compact toilets in which the flush cistern is a separate element. In order to install the tank, you must perform the following operations.
Step 1. Select bolts for securing the drain tank. Perhaps the bolts that come with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with anti-corrosion coating(galvanized) or made from of stainless steel. There should also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the entire structure. Sealing washers will also protect the toilet's ceramics from being damaged by bolts.
Step 2. We connect the flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are applied and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. We insert silicone sealing gaskets or use fum tape between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water supply outlet.
Important! After completing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
The most common on the market following types hidden cisterns for toilets: mounted or attached. Depending on the model, select installation instructions.
Installing a hidden cistern for an attached toilet
- We install the toilet on the floor as described above.
- We install a drain tank in the prepared niche. Usually it is bolted on, like in a regular compact toilet.
- We install a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this metallic profile, on which sheets of drywall are fixed. The top of the gypsum board is covered with tiles.
When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a hole for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the tank body to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. Besides, in decorative wall It is necessary to provide an inspection hole for servicing the hidden tank. - We display the control panel on the wall surface and finish the decorative wall.
Installing a wall-hung toilet with a hidden bull
Installing such a design gives you an advantageous chance to remodel the bathroom space and use its space more efficiently. Installation wall hung toilet with a hidden tank is carried out with the creation additional wall which will hide everything engineering Communication. We proceed in the following sequence.
Step 1. We are creating a project for the future bathroom. The hidden tank has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body or carried out some distance.
Moreover, when designing load-bearing structures future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a power frame that will support the wall-hung toilet. You can't get by with subtlety here. aluminum profile which is used for installation plasterboard partitions. The power structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. The fonts on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted are attached to it.
Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work to form a support frame and build a frame from a profile under a plasterboard wall, or install a ready-made frame. The frame must have voids for installation of sewer pipes.
Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the wall-hung toilet. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.
Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain water pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface went beyond the level of the future decorative cladding plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we “roughly” connect the wall-hung toilet and the hidden tank, putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the functionality of the entire structure and the strength of its fastening before covering the frame with plasterboard.
Step 5. Remove the wall-hung toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with countersunk screws to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the toilet mounting fonts, for the water supply pipe and for draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are filled with putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-hung toilet comes with a special template, which shows all the main contours.
Step 6.On final stage work, a finishing coating, for example, tiles, is laid on the walls.
Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern
toilet with hidden cistern concealed cistern
Mounting a toilet on a pedestal
As stated above, toilets have different configuration exhaust pipe. With a horizontal or inclined toilet outlet, the reception sewage pipe It is mounted at the same level with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or sloping upward.
However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?
There is a solution - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be completed.
- Lay the sewer inlet pipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base are calculated.
- After obtaining the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the inlet pipe of a toilet of this design can be located in the gap between the finished and rough wooden floor. When placing a toilet with direct outlet on wooden base, sewer networks must be laid before the finished floor is laid.
- On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the sewer inlet pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, next to each other, filling everything inner space pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
- The top of the brick pedestal is plastered and covered with a finishing coating, for example, tiles.
- Next, we do it with direct outlet in the same way as described in the section about installing a regular floor-standing toilet.
Installing a corner toilet
There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-mounted or wall-mounted one only in that its cistern has a rear wall in the shape of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.
The technology for installing a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from installing a “straight” toilet of the appropriate design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is connecting the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure drainage Wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.
In addition, the design of flush-mounted toilets with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted in the corner of the room diagonally at the corner, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. This design can be located either at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, shaping the toilet space according to your wishes.
To learn more about the technologies self-installation toilet, watch the instructional video.
Video - DIY toilet installation
Installation and connection of toilets of almost all modifications is carried out according to the same scheme. Usually the product comes with instructions, after studying which you can carry out the installation yourself. For your convenience, we suggest watching a video tutorial on how to install a toilet correctly.
Choosing a new toilet
Before going to the store for a new toilet, you need to decide on the size of the device and the method of connection to. This will depend on the outlet of the device. It can be of three types.
- Vertical.
- Horizontal.
- Oblique.
Vertical sewer pipe
After this, you can select a device from those models whose outlet drain design is suitable for connection to your sewer system. No adapter will help connect a toilet with a vertical flush to a horizontal sewer pipe. So this choice parameter is the most important, everything else is a matter of taste and wishes.
The shape of the toilet bowl can be:
- disc-shaped;
- funnel-shaped;
- visor.
Types of toilets according to bowl shape
The visor design prevents the formation of water splashes when flushing. Water flushing can occur in a circular manner or in a continuous stream.
The toilets themselves can be different designs. It could be a candy bar corner toilet, compact toilet or separate, when the bowl and toilet are located separately.
Toilets by mounting method
According to the method of fastening, toilets are divided into attached and free-standing. The attached one looks like a wall-hung toilet. Available for sale with or without a tank. Attached different ways. Most often this is an option with two or four mounting lugs for an anchor or screw, but there are models that are attached to special corners fixed in the floor.
Connecting elements
To connect the toilet to the sewer pipe, you will need connecting elements. You just need to choose the right one.
All elements are connected hermetically due to rubber seals. The exception is when connecting the cuff to an old cast-iron sewer pipe. In this case, the joints are coated with sanitary sealant.
Dismantling the old device
Before starting work, prepare a bucket and rags. First of all, turn off the water supply valve to the drain tank. Drain the water and unscrew it from the tank water pipe. Now we disconnect the tank from the bowl; most likely the mounting bolts are rusty and oxidized or stuck with deposits. Use a hex socket wrench; if you can’t unscrew it, try tightening the bolt slightly. The nut should turn with forward and backward movements. Don't try too hard to avoid breaking the tank. If this does not help, then spray the nut with WD-40, kerosene or turpentine. After a day, try to unscrew it again using the rocking method.
Disabling the cistern of an old toilet
Now you can move on to unscrewing the toilet. Fasteners can be anchor bolt with a nut or dowel. If the toilet was installed many years ago, then most likely it was installed with cement mortar. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep it intact, especially if the drain is secured oil paint with rags or cement coating. The easiest place to start is with the drain neck. Hit the neck with a short, strong blow; it will crack and separate from the sewer pipe. Do not hit the drain pipe; cast iron is a very brittle metal and can crack or split, adding additional problems.
Toilet dismantling work
Using a chisel and hammer, hammer away the cement mortar at the base of the toilet. Try rocking the device, then tilt the toilet back and drain the water from it into the sewer. Make sure that no debris gets inside the drain pipe. Now, using a screwdriver, carefully clean the neck of the sewer pipe from the solution of other dirt and insert the adapter eccentric collar, previously well lubricated with sanitary sealant. We plug the hole with a rag so that the dangerous and unpleasant aroma of sewer gases does not spoil your mood and health.
Installation: anchors or dowels
Installation on dowels involves installing the product on the bathroom floor without placing any lining such as taffeta under its base. Modern toilets are produced with mounting holes in the base, so this method installation is the most practical and most commonly used. After leveling the floor or laying tiles, you must perform the following steps:
- Using plumbing lubricant, we put an eccentric cuff on the toilet outlet, push the toilet to the intended place, and insert the cuff into the adapter. By turning the cuff, we align the toilet evenly. With a marker or pencil inserted into the mounting hole, mark the mounting points and the outline of the bowl;
Stages of installing a toilet on dowels
- disconnect the toilet from the adapter and move it away. Use a drill to drill holes for the dowel. Please note that if the holes in the toilet mounting lugs are oblique, then we drill a hole for the dowel, also at an angle. We hammer in the dowels;
- We install the toilet according to the marks and connect it to the sewer. We put a plastic sleeve (or rubber washer) on the screws and tighten it a little on the dowels;
- We level the bowl; if the base is not level, then place pieces of rubber or sheet plastic, and then tighten the screws until the end. Do not force yourself too hard to avoid breaking the ceramic. We put a plastic plug on top of the bolt. Seal the gap with silicone sealant, remove excess silicone with wet fingers.
Advice. It is better to try on a toilet with a flush cistern installed on it, and install it without a cistern.
Installation on taffeta
Installing a toilet on taffeta was previously considered a generally accepted installation method. We will not recommend it, since a toilet installed in this way will become loose over time. The reason for this is moisture falling on the wooden surface. The board is laid in the floor level with the surface and secured with anchors. The remaining space is filled cement mortar and after the mixture has completely hardened, installation begins. The installation process is the same as installation with dowels, only the mounting ears of the toilet bowl are screwed to the board with self-tapping screws, having previously placed rubber washers under the heads.
Installing a toilet on taffeta
Installation on epoxy resin
If there are no mounting lugs at the base of the toilet model, then such a device is mounted on adhesive connection. This option is suitable for devices in which the flush cistern is mounted on the wall without resting on the toilet bowl or where a drain tap is used instead of the cistern. After fitting and applying a contour mark, the surfaces to be glued are lightly treated with sandpaper or corundum stone to give them roughness, and then degreased with a solvent. Then epoxy adhesive is applied to the dry floor surface with a layer of 4 - 5 mm and the toilet is pressed with force. After the glue has completely cured, you can use the device.
Installation on epoxy resin
Advice. When working with epoxy glue Use gloves to protect your hands.
Suspended installation system
To install a wall-hung toilet, you will need a special frame with a flush cistern, which is equipped with a flush mechanism and lined with insulating material to absorb noise and prevent the formation of condensation. Typically, this design is purchased separately from the toilet. The frame is attached to the wall with anchors, and the toilet is hung on it. Communications are hidden inside the frame, which is subsequently sheathed moisture-resistant plasterboard and lined. The drain button is mounted in the wall on the front panel of the tank.
Suspended installation system
Connecting the tank to the toilet bowl and water supply
After the toilet is installed, you need to install the flush tank on it. We assemble the internal filling according to the instructions. We put a gasket on the bowl (it can have a different shape) and secure the tank to the bowl so that it does not move relative to its place. You can glue it to the bowl with silicone. The screws are tightened evenly. We connect the flexible hose from the tank to the water supply. On threaded connections We wind FUM tape for compaction. It will not be superfluous to install shut-off valve on a water pipe.
Connecting the toilet cistern
If it is necessary to repair the product, the tap will allow you to locally shut off the water supply. All that remains is to test the tightness and quality of the system. Shifting the float higher or lower allows you to adjust the level of water filling in the drain tank. Fill the tank with water several times and drain. The absence of leaks and trouble-free operation of the device indicates that the installation was successful. The finishing touch will be the installation of a toilet seat, which after all the work done will be a mere trifle for you.
Toilet installation tutorial: video
How to install a toilet: photo
If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new one.” earthenware friend» or before the start finishing in the toilet room.
The fact is that modern toilets so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.
What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without a global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.
It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.
To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:
- Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
- what are the dimensions new plumbing– will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
- what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
- what is the method of flushing the toilet;
- at what height do you want to install the plumbing?
If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.
Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.
Classification according to bowl shape:
- funnel-shaped;
- disc-shaped;
- visor.
Toilet bowls have an outlet flush:
- horizontal oblique;
- vertically designed.
The flush cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl or independent (wall-mounted).
Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.
Down with the old toilet!
Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.
- Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.
- Unscrew the thin hose that goes to the tank.
- Unscrew the tank fastenings. If they are rusty or “sticky”, you can water them, leaving for 5-7 minutes, special means which will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip the bolts off using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to yield, you can spray the mount with “WD”, kerosene compound, etc., in advance.
- Next to the cistern bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet mountings. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To make the process easier, use the same techniques as when working with the tank mounts.
- Next, you need to unhook the toilet flush from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. You need to beat it off with a hammer and a screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but remain in place.
- We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.
- Ready. You can unhook the old toilet and proudly carry it to the trash, not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.
If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.
After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains (by the way, about installation plastic pipes with your own hands you can also read on our website).
Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”
For normal operation, the toilet needs a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.
- First, we connect the toilet flush with a corrugated pipe to the outlet of the sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option– if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.
Toilet installation - cuff
- To introduce water, you need a flexible, fairly long hose that connects the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to select a hose with two suitable fasteners. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a pipe with a diameter of 1/8”.
Take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe
- If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.
We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners
You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.
Mounting the toilet to the wall
Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). Wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended with metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.
After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.
All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.
The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.
- Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
- Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
- Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.
