The underfloor heating installation project involves installing a heating system yourself. The following types of underfloor heating can be installed independently: infrared, electric, water and film. Water-based types of heated floors are considered the cheapest and most practical. They consume the least resources, however, you will have to tinker with installation.
Design features and organizational aspects
A water heated floor is a system of polypropylene, plastic, copper or metal-plastic pipes. The coolant is a liquid that moves along the contour of the pipeline. The temperature of the liquid, and therefore the house, is controlled by a thermostat - a heat-sensitive sensor that is installed at a distance of 80-120 cm above the floor. Note that the thermostat can be located in any of the heated rooms or outside.
The second distinctive feature of water heating is its economy. However, this system also has a downside - a complex installation scheme: under a water-heated floor, you need to properly prepare the screed, purchase a heat insulator, connect the pipes to the boiler and organize the safety of your home. In addition, the water floor requires connecting the control valves and the distribution manifold cabinet yourself. The cabinet contains supply and return pipelines connected to the manifold.
Installation methods
How to make a heated floor in a private house? There are two installation methods - the floor method and installation on a concrete surface. The first installation method is used exclusively for these types of flooring: laminate, linoleum and carpet. In the second way, a water floor is installed for such materials that are placed on a concrete screed.
Installation of heated floors in a private house
Installing a warm water floor on a concrete screed is the most popular way to install high-tech heating. This installation scheme has become very popular due to the high performance of the water floor and its economy.
When laying the floor with your own hands, we recommend following the above sequence. We move on to the most difficult stage - drawing up a diagram of the pipe layout and their installation. There are several known methods of laying water pipes: single and double snake and spiral. The snake pattern is recommended to be used for square or rectangular rooms, and the second option is for rooms with irregular geometry.
The heating elements are attached to the reinforcing mesh with clamps at intervals of 0.5 meters. In areas of potentially high pressure and stress, the pipeline is strengthened corrugated pipes. The length of pipes when laying external walls should not exceed 85–95 meters, otherwise the heating system will lose too much heat as a result of pressure drop at the end of the circuit. On average, per 1 m² there are 5 linear meters pipes, provided that a step of 200 mm is observed.
Do-it-yourself installation of water heated floors
Pressure testing is the final stage at which the pipeline is checked for integrity. The recommended pressure during crimping is 0.3–0.4 MPa. It is better to pour the concrete screed after checking the pipeline. The layer thickness should not exceed 45–75 mm. Experts advise using sand concrete M300, or a special material for heated floors.
The floor covering is laid only after the screed has completely hardened. Subject to temperature regime and regular ventilation of the room, the screed dries in about 20 days. You can lay ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate or carpet on a warm floor, built with your own hands.
Installation of polystyrene heating system
All necessary materials for installation are sold complete with polystyrene boards. The assembly diagram is quite simple: the polystyrene plate has special plates with grooves into which pipes for the water floor can easily be snapped into place. Once clicked into place, the floor can be covered with any covering that does not require a special base, for example, concrete screed.
If you can’t imagine the interior without ceramic tiles or linoleum, then in this case we recommend that you install a layer of gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheet 10–15 mm thick) over the polystyrene boards. Gypsum fiber is a very strong and lightweight material, so you can safely lay tiles on it yourself without fear of damaging the heating system.
The modular design implies the use of ready-made particle boards with special channels for the pipeline. Heating pipes are installed in grooves. Then a thermal insulation layer is laid. The entire structure is covered from above with GVL slabs. Suitable type of flooring - for example, linoleum;
Video: Warm floor on a wooden base
Anyone can make a heated water floor with their own hands in a private home. home handyman. It will take patience, careful calculations, purchasing materials and missing tools. But in the end you will get a system that allows you to adjust the heating level throughout the entire floor. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, rules for selecting materials, installation diagrams, laying and connections.
Advantages and disadvantages of heated floors
Putting aside the complexity of installation, the craftsmen agree that water-heated floors in a private house are one of the most efficient systems heating Compared to a radiator system, a water floor is wooden house can give significant savings heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional advantages:
- Low temperature operating mode. This means that the air in the room will not become too dry and stuffy.
- There is no overheating of the air mass.
- Water floor heating meets the requirements environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
- No negative impact per person, since most of the energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
- The installation of water heated floors in a private house with ceilings of 3 m in height provides savings of up to 30%.
- The installation system is hidden - this simplifies the process interior decoration premises.
- Safety. By installing a heated floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors- the entire system consists of pipelines; ordinary water is used as a coolant.
Disadvantages of a water floor:
- Labor intensity of work. Being a system of several layers of material, the structure requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation diagram.
- Risk of leakage. To find a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire installation.
- Involuntary weighting design features buildings. Layering materials in layers increases the weight of floors by 10-15%, so when installing a heated floor with your own hands on the 2nd and above floors, you need to calculate the permissible load on the floor.
It is extremely important when installing a floor heating system to high-quality insulation buildings. In this case, having made a water heated floor with your own hands, you will not have to supplement the heating with convectors.
Design
Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing will interfere with the implementation of your plans. What you need to pay attention to:
- Room height. The thickness of the entire heated floor system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
- Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. You will have to estimate the price of a custom-made door or the possibility of increasing the height of the doorway.
- Window placement/orientation. If they face the windy side, north/west, the system power should be increased.
- Estimate bearing capacity floor beams. The weight of the entire system with concrete screed significantly increases the load.
It is not necessary to give up heating; you can consider the option of a flat (dry) water floor. The system consists of pipelines with a carrier laid on top of a boardwalk. In this case, there is no need to install a screed; it is enough to install it on top of the subfloor wooden frame, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in insulation (mineral wool sheets, expanded clay, sawdust), lay boards on top, and hide coolant pipes in the seams between them. The raised floor can be finished on top.
Scheme development
The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, technical characteristics equipment and materials. To make the calculation, indicators and data are determined:
- floor area;
- room height;
- material of walls, ceilings;
- type of thermal insulation;
- type of finishing floor covering.
You also need to think about the desired t° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the maximum t° mode for premises for various purposes:
| Room type | t° mode (maximum) |
| Living space and areas where people spend time standing | 21-27⁰ |
| Sedentary rooms, offices | 29⁰ |
| Hallways, corridors, halls | 30⁰ |
| Bathrooms (swimming pools) | 30-33⁰ |
| Premises for active pastime | 17-19⁰ |
| Premises where time of stay is limited | 37⁰ |
| Edge zones of any premises | 35⁰ |
After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up that contains the following data:
- Installation points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
- Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
- The distance between the elements, t° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the lengths of all circuits.
- Heating power data for each individual room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.
Also in the diagram you should indicate data on setting up the automation.
To ensure that the installation of a water floor is successful, when drawing up a diagram, listen to the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the layout. For 16 mm pipes - up to 100 m, for 20 mm pipes - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the underfloor heating system. If the installation scheme for a heated water floor includes several circuits, it is easier to make them the same length with maximum difference 15 m. The pipe laying pitch should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with harsh winters a pitch of 10 cm is recommended. The location pitch affects the pipe flow rate. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe will be required per m² of room area, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m/m². When laying the circuit on the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the areas where plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture are installed. One circuit covers a room of no more than 40 m², the maximum side length of the circuit is up to 8 m. Thus, in the flooring scheme in a private house, it is important to take into account:
- pipeline laying pitch limits;
- limits and contour size;
- thermal insulation material in areas of reduced pitch.
The pitch always decreases in the area of the openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout plan.
Carrying out calculations
The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit: the active heating area (sq. m) is divided by the laying step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. To obtain more accurate calculations, it is better to contact specialists, but this requires an investment of money, so we make a water-heated floor in the house step by step with our own hands.
Advice: “Thermostats are installed to regulate the degree of heating of the coolant. The maximum gradation on devices is 55°.”
Detailed calculation scheme:
- The distance from the walls is from 30 cm.
- The determination of the number of circuits is calculated based on the length of the pipe per circuit. When dividing the area of the room by laying step, add 10% for turns. Formula: L = S/N*1.1. Designation L - pipe length s, S - area of the room, N - laying step. Thus, on an area of 40 m², when laying out a pipe with a pitch of 15 cm, the required definition is the sum of the lengths of all contours - 266 m.
- When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end - to the supply device, the other - to the return one), multiply the final figure by 2, and you will get the required length of the pipe from the connection point to the collector.
- Pipeline material: for polyethylene with a diameter of 18 mm, length up to 120 m, metal-plastic - no more than 125 m. Masters do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal hydraulic resistance and load on the coolant.
- With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m/m² are required; step of 25 cm - 3 m/m²; at 20 cm - 5 m/m²; at 15 cm - 6.7 m/m²; at 10 cm - 10 m/m².
- If the area is 40 m² or more, the laying scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, this makes it easier to ensure equal heating over the entire area.
Advice: “The length of the circuit is measured from the exit point from the collector, and not from the entrance area to the room where the system is installed.”
And now about how to calculate possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of the heat transfer of all components and structures of the house, average precipitation, t°, air direction and other things. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can focus on:
- In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat loss is 40 W/m².
- In non-old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the indicator is 70-80 W/m².
- In old-type buildings with wooden windows, without insulation, heat loss reaches 100 W/m² or more.
Advice: “If the heat loss of a building is more than 100 W/m², installing a water-heated floor becomes impractical.”
Selection of components
To make a heated floor system in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, a water floor is made from gas boiler. This is economically beneficial and simpler in technology. The power indicator of a gas boiler should exceed the sum of all capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for installation, but unprofitable due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The device will provide normal movement carrier through pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it copes with the load if the house area does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is:
- copper - durable, long term operation, but high cost;
- metal-plastic - durable, bendable, inexpensive and light in weight;
- polypropylene - low price, high maximum heating, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
- PEX - cross-linked polyethylene pipe - reliable option, if the mount is rigid and the step is minimal.
The calculated cross-section of pipes for do-it-yourself dry water heated floors is considered to be a size of up to 20 mm. Consumption per 1 m² (200 mm increments) is approximately 5-6 m. Insulation. Here the choice is:
- foil polyethylene is suitable for minimal floor thickness;
- expanded polystyrene in ready-made mats with protrusions for laying out pipes in increments of 50*50 mm;
- mineral wool - cheap, but impractical due to its ability to absorb moisture from the solution.
Tip: “A layer of insulation over basement a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required temperature of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the insulation layer.”
Heat consumption meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings, where a warm water floor is laid. Manifold cabinet. Needed for installation of control elements and connection of pipe circuits with the heat supply main. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes are laid, but reinforcement may not be used. You will also need components for arranging the screed:
- screed solution (cement, sand, water);
- damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
- fasteners for fixing the pipe.
The number of elements will be determined by a pre-compiled diagram of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If the planning work is done correctly, there will be no errors. But the diagram itself should be saved so that in the event of a leak, you can quickly remember all the installation and fastening points.
Technology of work execution
To make a water floor, the installation technology provides a step-by-step algorithm of work:
- collector installation;
- floor preparation with laying damper tape, insulation;
- contour layout;
- connection with leak testing;
- crimping;
- screed
After finishing preparatory stages the system starts up, then turns off and you can complete the finishing of the floors.
Assembly and installation of the manifold cabinet
When installing a water heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip any stages of work. Step-by-step instructions for heated floors involve a detailed examination of the technology; even a novice master will not have any difficulties. A manifold cabinet is a device that contains:
- collector;
- pump;
- air vent valve;
- drain outlet
The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the overall configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. It is not possible to fulfill the condition; we place the collector next to the longest pipe circuit.
Important! When installing a heated floor system in the area where the collector is installed, it is necessary to provide an area for bending the pipeline. Pipes are laid only from below to ensure normal coolant movement. Install shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary for preventive maintenance and repair of the structure.
Preparing the base and laying insulation
To make underfloor heating in a private house, you need to carry out preparatory work based:
- clean the base from debris;
- remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
- lay the selected thermal insulation material;
- waterproofing (thick film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
- along the walls there is a damper tape that will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.
An equal thickness of heated floors is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.
Circuit design in different ways
When thinking about how to make a water-heated floor, you will have to take into account the area of the room. The pipe layout depends on this:
- Snail. A contour of heated floors from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out around the perimeter of the room, going towards the center with a layout across a row. This scheme ensures rapid return of the coolant and increases the uniformity of heating of the area. Craftsmen prefer “snail” in rooms with complex shape, where it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of 40 m² or more.
- Snake or loops. This installation of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along outer wall(one), then in waves with a return. Good layout for small spaces.
- Meander or double snake. Combined scheme layout implies a parallel arrangement of contours. This option organizes the movement of coolant at different temperatures, compensating for heat transfer.
Important! The laying of water heated floor pipes always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.
To make laying out easier, a beginner should draw markings on the floor. Installation of the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections is not allowed - such a design will not withstand a long heating season.
How to make a heated floor correctly:
- The installation of the floor begins with connection to the supply manifold. You can retreat only 7 cm from the wall, but it is worth considering the small layout step near the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
- Once the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be secured with a clamp. Dowels are suitable if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay it on the floor reinforcing mesh, tying a contour from a pipe to it; this eliminates the expansion of materials when heat is applied.
Advice: “A ribbed polystyrene backing laid under the contours of the system will increase the thermal insulation performance and help you install the heated floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired pitch.”
Collector connection
It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after laying out the circuit, is connected to the return manifold. To avoid mistakes, you should first read the instructions for the unit.
Crimping
This is the name of the process hydraulic test necessary to check the quality of the layout. If we are making a heated floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the installation order and other nuances. Pressure testing is the launch of coolant into the system at maximum high pressure. The pressure level must exceed the design minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:
- Half an hour after launch decrease permissible pressure perhaps by 10%, no more.
- The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% from the original designation.
- The temperature of the carrier must remain unchanged.
The total inspection time is 24 hours. It is better to give the stage up to 2 days to make sure that step by step installation The water heated floor was made correctly with your own hands, the floors warm up evenly and there are no leaks, loose fasteners or other defects.
Screed
The instructions for installing a warm water floor involve using a screed made from a cement-sand mixture, which conducts heat well, or classic concrete. To make concrete, take cement grade from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.
The thickness of the screed is 3-7 mm. Need to fill ready solution to circuits filled with coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during crimp testing. Drying time for concrete is up to 28-30 days, period for ready mixture you need to look at the packaging.
Advice: “If you need to make heated floors in a private house with an area of 40 m² or more, you must provide expansion joints.”
First start
The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and circulate the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t° indicator is set to +25°C, then increases every day by 10°C. With a gradual increase in t°, the system gains the required heating parameter in 2 days.
Finishing
Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it won’t be difficult to decorate them. Warm floors are installed under laminate, carpet, solid wood, or tiles - in a private home, the latter option is the most convenient. But if the installation scheme for tiles remains the same, then installation for laminate requires a special approach:
- The laminate must be High Quality. When heated, the material releases volatile substances; counterfeiting would be inappropriate. It is better to look at the “Warmwasser” marking - this is decor for floors with water-heated floors.
- Thermal insulation and waterproofing materials cannot be laid under the laminate.
- To ensure ventilation, a compensation gap of up to 15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the laminate laying. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
- Before laying the tiles, you need to spread the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary to set the temperature - the lamellas will warm up and it will be easier to lay them.
Despite the lack of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-based heated floors under laminate. Lamels are characterized by low thermal conductivity; tiles have a higher thermal conductivity; in addition, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, tiles are much more practical.
Operating rules
Knowing how to professionally install a heated water floor in your home, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and accessible:
- Warm floors in a private house, the installation of which is carried out in compliance with the technology, always gain temperature gradually. By starting the circuit at its maximum level after a long period of inactivity, the owner will receive a reduction in service life.
- The increase in temperature should be gradual, no more than 4-5⁰C per day.
- The t° mode indicator of the incoming coolant is not higher than 45⁰С.
- Frequent startups and shutdowns of the system are fraught with rapid wear and tear, but do not reduce costs.
To use heating with pleasure and without harm to health, it is recommended to maintain optimal mode humidity.
There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to install a heated floor in a private house, the owner will be able to install it outdoors, for example, in the entrance area, stairs, or parking lot.
The main problem of private houses and cottages is cold floors. After all, radiators heat only part of the air in the room. The heated air immediately rushes upward, leaving the floor almost as cold.
If there is a water heated floor, the temperature in the room is distributed more rationally. Heating costs remain the same or even decrease. Such systems can be installed throughout the house, or only in the bathroom, nursery, living room, etc.
Basic installation methods
Water heating pipes for underfloor heating can be fixed:By pouring a concrete screed;
In the grooves of polystyrene plates;
On a plank base.
The last two options are called the “dry” system. The fact is that in buildings with wooden floors, cement-sand screed cannot be used. After all, the weight of even 1 square. m of concrete 50 mm thick is about 300 kg. To secure water floors in buildings with wooden floors, they are used polystyrene sheets or panels from tree.
Warm floors with cement-sand screed in areas with a warm climate can be installed as the main heating system without installing radiators. When the water temperature in the pipes is 30-50°C, the floors warm up to 22-24°C, which is quite enough for a comfortable existence.
Cement-sand screed
The heat transfer of “dry” systems, unfortunately, is significantly lower than in structures with concrete screed. Therefore, they can only be used as a supplement to heating radiators.
Laying “dry” floors on a plank base and polystyrene foam mats
Important! IN apartment buildings connecting water floors to a centralized system is strictly prohibited. If the apartment is located on the ground floor and the cold comes from the basement, you should use electrically heated floors.
Pipe selection
Pipes are selected for floor heating diameter from 1.6 to 2.5 cm. It is not advisable to use products with a smaller diameter, since the circulation of water in pipes that are too thin is reduced. The speed of water movement will also be low if the pipes are too wide: the water in them will cool down before reaching the end of the circuit.When installing water floors, it is better to use flexible pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, the degree of expansion of which when heated is less. To strengthen them, they are reinforced with fiberglass. The pipes are connected using compression or press fittings.
Such pipes look like ordinary hoses. They are also easy to bend, so they do not require the use of pipe benders, and they can be installed literally in a matter of minutes. The disadvantages of such products include “creep” - an increase in the diameter of products without loss of performance up to 1.5% during the first 10 years of operation. In addition, over time they swell slightly and become less smooth.
Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene
Compression fittings and crimp connection of cross-linked polyethylene pipes
During installation, it can also be used metal-plastic(products made of polyethylene reinforced with aluminum), pipes made of corrugated stainless steel or copper. Bend metal-plastic using pipe benders or manually after preheating on gas burner. The connection at the joints is made fittings without welding.
Device metal-plastic pipe and fittings for metal plastic
Polypropylene It is used less frequently, since it has a small bend radius and is more difficult to work with. It is impossible to avoid joints in such pipes, and special ones are used to connect them. welding attachments.
Calculation of the number of pipes
A floor plan with doors and windows on a scale of 1:50 is drawn on graph paper or a checkered piece of paper. A pipe laying diagram is applied to it, starting from the window of the wall closest to the water riser. A distance of 30 cm is provided from the wall.The distance between the two pipes depends on their diameter and the initial temperature of the room: from 20 to 50 cm. If the room is too cold, then the distance is kept to a minimum. One circuit (branch) should cover no more than 20 square meters. m.
Pipe laying methods
There are several installation methods. The disadvantage of “snake” laying is the significant difference between the water temperature at the inlet and outlet, so it is used only in small rooms, where heat loss will be minimal. With this method, the beginning of the contour should be located at the coldest zones near the windows and along the walls.
Laying "snail" more complicated, but with this method the temperature difference in the room is almost imperceptible. First, the pipe is laid along the walls, and only then it is bent by 90°C and moved inside the contour. In this case, the warm pipe and the already cooled pipe alternate with each other, so the floor is heated more evenly. The so-called universal method is also used, in which the “snail” and “snake” alternate.
Important! If there is heavy furniture or equipment in the room, heated floors are not laid underneath them.
Having measured the length of the contour in the drawing, you should multiply the resulting figure by fifty (sketch scale). Another 2 m is added to this figure to connect the pipes to the riser. For calculations you can use the following formula:
Important! Maximum length pipes in the circuit - 90 m. When this figure increases, a drop in pressure is possible, as well as the occurrence of quite large heat losses at the end of the circuit. If the resulting figure is more than 70 m, it is advisable to divide it into two separate branches. In this case, the difference in their length should not exceed 15 m.
Manifold for underfloor heating
The water distribution pipe is installed first in the underfloor heating system. collector- a node to which all pipes are connected. Its main function is to collect chilled water and distribute hot water for individual areas. Up to 12 circuits can be connected to a standard manifold. Such devices are usually placed in a closed cabinet. It is advisable that it be located in the center of the wall of the heated room. It is not recommended to install it too close to the floor.
Distribution manifolds
The temperature at the entrance to the collector should not exceed 35°C, while the surface of the heated floor should warm up to 30°C (in wet rooms up to 33°C). The temperature of the parquet or vinyl film should be slightly lower: up to 27°C.
In front of the collector there is usually shut-off valve, with which you can turn off the heating system. Next to it are also attached drain valve and air vent. If the system has several circuits of different lengths, the collector must be equipped with flow regulators.
Pumping and mixing unit
Since the pipes in such a system must warm up less than the heating radiators, the heating system is equipped with a pumping and mixing unit in which the water is diluted to the required temperature. Such a unit is connected to the supply line and the “return” (the pipe through which cooled water returns to the system).The pumping and mixing unit consists of a circular pump that provides water pressure and a valve that regulates the degree of its supply. Mixing hot and cold water, temperature control and maintenance to the required level is carried out using a thermal mixer.
Pumping and mixing units
Installation procedure for a water floor
1. The underfloor heating system is mounted on subfloor. It can be assembled from boards or plywood. If the distance between the logs is more than 0.5 m, it is better to lay an additional log between the supports.2. Floors must be perfectly level, since if there are differences, the pipes may become airborne. IN concrete base. adjacent to the ground, all cracks and cracks must be sealed.
3. Everything wooden surfaces(including load-bearing logs) must be treated with an antiseptic.
4. Covering the room is necessary waterproof. To do this, you can use polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns, which is laid on rough floor overlapped onto the walls and secured with tape or a construction stapler. It also covers the logs. For insulation, you can also use roofing felt or special solutions.
The waterproofing layer is laid over the walls
5. Lay on top of the waterproofing insulation. When installing the system directly on the ground or above a cold basement, mats made of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 60 mm or a layer of expanded clay from 10 cm are used. Foam plastic, mineral wool or basalt slabs can also be used as a heat-insulating material.
Floor insulation
6. More modern materials for insulation of water floors are profile thermal insulation boards, in which “bosses” are provided for laying pipes. Each such plate is equipped with a side lock for adhesion to the adjacent sheet. For ease of cutting, there is a ruler with marked divisions on its sides.
Profile thermal insulation boards for laying pipes
7. Concrete screeds are installed along the walls and door frames to compensate for movement. damper tape(strip from 120 mm wide) made of foamed polyethylene. It should protrude 20 mm above the floor. At the bottom of such a tape there is a “skirt” made of film, which covers the joint so that the concrete does not flow down when pouring the screed.
Laying damper tape
8. Attaching pipes to thermal insulation material can also be done using anchor brackets or, in the case of installing a metal mesh, using clamps.
Fastening with anchor clamps
Fastening pipes to metal mesh
9. A foil gasket is laid on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat.
10. When pouring pipes with concrete screed in cement mortar It is advisable to introduce a plasticizer to prevent cracking. It takes at least 28 days for it to completely harden. The finished floor can only be laid after this time has passed.
Concrete screed
Important! Connecting pipes under a concrete screed to avoid leaks is not allowed. When laying metal-plastic, only solid coils should be used.
11. If instead of a concrete screed a “dry” system made of polystyrene or wood is used, then before laying them the insulation is again covered with a waterproofing layer and sheets of plywood or wood. In this case, pipes are laid in thermal distribution metal plates equipped with grooves.
Thermal distribution plates
System pressure testing
1. To check the system for leaks before pouring concrete or closing “dry” systems, perform it crimping. To avoid future leaks, the air ducts should not participate in this process, so they are blocked. When crimping metal-plastic the first test is carried out within 24 hours cold water at a pressure of 6 bar. This water is not drained before pouring concrete.2. Pressure in pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene during such a check there should be 2 times more workers. After it decreases to normal within 30 minutes, the pressure is raised again, and this is repeated 3 times. After this, the system is left for a day. During this time it should fall by less than 1.5 Bars.
3. Next, a second check is carried out hot water. In this case, the pipes must be heated to 80-85°C. If weak links are detected in the fastening, the fittings are tightened. When warming up, the stress that arose during the pipe laying process is also relieved. Concrete is poured after the pipes have cooled without reducing the pressure in them.
Video: Water heated floor in the house
As an additional or main source of heating for a private home, water-heated floors are often used to effectively warm the building. However, there are some features associated with the installation of the heating circuit and the subsequent operation of the system.
The installation of a water heated floor in a private house has both its positive and negative sides which are important to consider.
Is it possible to heat a country house with a water floor?
Water floor heating in a private house can be used as a main or additional heating source. A special feature of the system is heating the room from bottom to top. This method is the most effective, as it allows you to achieve the complete absence of cold, unheated zones.
The advantage of water floors also lies in the fact that the room is heated faster and with less energy consumption.
There are certain restrictions associated with the use of heated floors. So, for example, the maximum heating intensity depends on the selected floor covering.
Laminate and parquet boards can be heated to a temperature of 30°C, after which the material begins to emit harmful and toxic fumes. It would be optimal to install heating systems in country houses using ceramic tiles as a finishing coating. Ceramics are resistant to temperature changes, heat up well and retain heat on the surface for a long time.
For automatic control there is a collector between the floors. The mixing unit allows you to turn on the heating system in the absence of the owners, as well as control the degree and intensity of heating of the room.
How to make a water floor correctly
The design of the system is so simple that it is possible to lay water floors in a private house with your own hands. At the same time, it is extremely important to observe certain nuances associated with step-by-step installation and heating operation.The work is performed in the following order:
- A rough base is being made– if you plan to lay it on the ground, first apply the powder using sand and crushed stone, compacting them using a vibrating plate. After laying the waterproofing, a rough reinforced screed is poured.
The installation of water floor heating in a private house cannot be carried out without the use of waterproofing material. For this purpose, weldable materials or mastics are used. The bituminous material at the joints is treated with a construction hair dryer or a blowtorch. A vapor barrier must be placed on top of the screed. - Insulation - the efficiency of heating a private house with water-heated floors largely depends on a high-quality thermal insulation layer. Thus, a screen is created that reduces heat losses and prevents pipes from defrosting. You can use extruded polystyrene or foam. Mineral insulation V in this case ineffective.
- Pipeline laying– a scheme for laying a water-heated floor in a private house is being worked out in advance. You can make a plan yourself or turn to professionals. When calculating heating, the number of heating zones, the length of each water circuit and the type of piping are taken into account.
Self-installation of warm water floors in a private house is carried out as follows. A reinforcing mesh is laid, the pipe is laid out over it and secured with clamps. If a polystyrene system is used, then the pipeline is laid in special grooves located in the mats, or in openings located on heat-reflecting plates.
- Pouring the finished floor– laying a heated water floor in a country house with your own hands is nearing completion. At this stage, it is extremely important to make the most even base possible. Beacons are displayed. A plasticizer and additives are added to the solution to strengthen the concrete.
Ordinary cement composition use is strictly prohibited. If a polystyrene system is used, plywood or gypsum fiber board is laid on top. - Circuits are being connected– initially attached, water circuits are connected to it. When installing, the following installation rules must be observed. The coolant supply to the radiators is connected to the lower outlet of the collector, the return to the upper. Water circuits are connected in reverse, supply at the top, return at the bottom. Using the collector, the floor temperature is controlled and the intensity of the coolant supply is controlled.
- Laying the finishing coating– a warm water floor in a dacha is lined with any of the recommended finishing materials: , parquet board, linoleum. Recently, self-leveling floors have also become popular.
- The first start - heating the cottage with water-heated floors can be carried out no earlier than 28 days after pouring the screed. Before starting the system for the first time, maintenance of the circuits is required: filling with water and.
The installation technology is largely influenced by the chosen method of laying floors. The polystyrene system is more expensive, but installation takes less time. Installation using a concrete screed requires less cost, but from the beginning repair work It may take about 1.5 months before commissioning.
What is the best way to connect the floor heating system (coolant heating source)
According to the operating instructions, optimal temperature with continuous operation of floor heating, the temperature range is from 25-30°C.The water in the radiator-type heating system heats up to 60 -70°C. Accordingly, simply connecting the heating of the cottage using warm water floors directly from the boiler is possible, but not effective. It is enough to simply try holding your hand under running hot water at a temperature of 60°C. It will simply be impossible to walk barefoot on a floor with such heating intensity.
Therefore, the design of a heating system using water floors includes the ability to connect to the following heating sources:
- Boiler with a designated circuit for heated floors.
- The boiler is connected to a mixing unit.
- Indirect heating boiler.
- Instantaneous water heater.
When connecting, it is important to strictly adhere to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. Often the documentation provides recommendations regarding connection methods.
Pros and cons of using water floors
Like any heating system, heated floors have their advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:- No radiators required– water heating of floors in a private house can fully meet the heat demand for a residential building. With sufficient thermal insulation of a frame dacha or any country house, energy costs are even lower than traditional heating using radiators.
- System automation– the operating principle of a water heated floor allows the use of programmers and control units that allow you to control the operation of the system remotely.
- No need to obtain additional permits.
- Cost - compared to a heating system using radiators, water floor heating for suburban construction will cost slightly more. So, according to preliminary calculations per 1 m², to carry out all repairs and finishing works you will need approximately 1000 rubles, including the cost of work.
- Versatility– various design options for a water floor are possible, allowing you to take into account all the structural features of the house. Additionally, it can be noted that not only the traditional coolant (water), but also special antifreeze can be used.
One of the options for heating a private home is to install heated floors. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living spaces from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The design of a heated floor cannot be called complex, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a heated floor in a private house with your own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages
Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out due to pipes located under the floor covering, through which heated coolant circulates, or through electric heating elements.
As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the home.
Among positive qualities warm floors, the following stand out most clearly:
- High level of comfort. A floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot without fear of any discomfort.
- Economical. Savings when using heated floors are achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from bottom to top and heats only the volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. There are no extra expenses.
- Ability to adjust temperature conditions. It is strongly recommended to equip a heated floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within user-specified limits.
- Easy to install. Installing heated floors is a fairly simple task, especially when it comes to the electrical version of the system. The water circuit is more difficult to lay out, but even if desired, it is quite possible to install it yourself.
There are also disadvantages:
- High cost. To install a heated floor, you will need a lot of materials, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce costs - to do all the heating installation yourself.
- Reducing the volume of the room. The thickness of a heated floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then this will not cause any special problems (unless you have to redo the thresholds).
- Demands on flooring. You can cover a heated floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed for use in combination with heated floors. An unsuitable coating will not allow the system to operate effectively, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their failure as a result of overheating.
The advantages of heated floors are significant, and the disadvantages are not critical, so such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.
Preparation of the base for all types and options of heated floors
One of essential elements is the basis for a heated floor in a private house, which must be prepared even before installing the heating system itself. There are a number of requirements for the base - it must be strong enough, even and not allow heat to pass through. Each requirement is important, but special attention It is thermal insulation that is required - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various pipe insulations are used, which must be selected for specific conditions.
The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following steps:
- Dismantling. The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports. All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
- Marking. With help building level Along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be aligned. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient to effectively retain heat.
- Bedding. The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The sand cushion must be compacted after backfilling.
- Waterproofing. Placed on a compacted sand layer waterproofing material(polyethylene is the cheapest, but a more reliable option is a waterproofing membrane).
- Arrangement of beacons. Now you need to install the supports on which the beacon profiles will be located. The beacons need to be very accurately leveled.
- Laying thermal insulation. All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
- Filling the screed. Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can begin pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
- Alignment. When the screed has set a little, the beacons need to be removed and the resulting holes must be sealed. The seams are rubbed down, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely hardened.
In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:
- Polystyrene boards, which are usually reinforced with reinforcing mesh and attached to the base with anchors to increase strength;
- Rolled foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
- Polymer mats designed specifically for laying water-heated floors, for which purpose the material has special protrusions between which pipes are laid.
Do-it-yourself water heated floor installation
Exist different variants heated floors in a private house, but the most popular type are water ones. Structurally, such heating is a pipeline system laid under the floor covering through which hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system or directly to a heat source.
Water heated floor includes the following elements:
- Pipes. For arranging heated floors, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes. Both materials have good thermal conductivity and a low coefficient of thermal expansion.
- Collector. This element is necessary for the formation of proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate terminals. Inexpensive manifolds only have shut-off valves. Ball Valves, while good devices are equipped with a valve that allows you to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
- Circulation pump. The pump ensures normal circulation of coolant in heated floors. If in heating equipment has a built-in circulation pump, then the need for separate device absent.
- Damper tape. This tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from foamed polymers.
- Fasteners. If installation is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of pipe fastenings. In all other cases, special brackets equipped with locks and anchors will be required.
Laying pipes in a private house
In order for a water heated floor to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. There is no point in saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor areas, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.
The total length of pipes for one room is calculated using the following formula:
- D = S / M * k, where
- D – total length of pipes,
- S – room area,
- M – laying step,
- k – safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.
Usually for 1 sq.m. The room area requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.
An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:
- "Snake". Good option for Not large premises. Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes remains virtually unchanged throughout the entire circuit.
- "Snail" and "double snake". These layout options are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Thanks to the close location of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
- Circuit including several circuits. For a complete and efficient heating For large rooms, it is best to equip several separate circuits that will provide good heat transfer and be quite reliable.
Installation of water heated floor
Water heated floors in a private house are installed using the following technology:
- Collector installation. The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
- Installation of damper tape. The tape is laid along the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where it will be located heating circuit. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
- Reinforcement. A reinforcing mesh must be laid on the thermal insulation layer, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
- Pipe installation. The water circuit pipes unwind, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the selected scheme and fixed using brackets or clamps.
- Connection to the collector. All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with coolant. The water circuit must be left in working condition for two days to check for leaks.
- Filling the screed. A regular one is poured on top of the water-filled system. cement strainer, which must be left until completely hardened (usually this takes about a month). When the solution has completely dried, it will be possible to start the heating in operating mode. Starting the system prematurely is likely to damage the concrete layer.
Design and types of electric heated floors
If it is necessary to lay heated floors in a separate room, then electric will be more relevant. heating system. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.
There are the following types of electric heated floors:
- Film. The most popular type of heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon plates fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
- Cable. This type of heater is based on a cable with high resistance, due to which the product generates thermal energy when current passes. The laying step of cable heaters can be varied, thereby influencing the intensity of heating of the room.
- Rod. Main structural element are carbon rods connected by wires into a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type electric heaters. Read also: "How to make an electric heated floor with your own hands - types of heated floors, installation rules."
Installation of film heated floors
Film heated floors are the most common system, which is largely due to the ease of installation.
An electric heated floor in a private house is installed from scratch using the following technology:
- Laying reflective material. It is strongly recommended to lay heat-reflecting foil material under the heated film floor, which will prevent heat from passing into the underground space.
- Open the films. It is advisable to cut the film as small as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. The film can be cut only along the cut lines drawn on it - this avoids damage internal elements material.
- Film laying. Prepared heating elements laid out on the base and leveled. You can secure the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to secure the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
- Connecting strips. In areas where the conductive path is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
- Contact insulation. Each contact and area where the strips were cut must be carefully insulated. A good option insulation are butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the heated floor elements. With such plates the contacts are simply crimped.
- Connecting the thermostat. The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, following the instructions on its body or in the instructions. The system must be turned on and make sure that all bands are working.
- Flooring installation. If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.
Conclusion
It is very easy to install a heated floor - all types of heated floors in a private house can be easily assembled with your own hands. The finished system will ensure complete heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.
