Assembling a partition from plasterboard. Installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard. Attaching a horizontal lintel from a profile for plasterboard.

Based on the nature of the materials used, plasterboard partitions are divided into simple and reinforced. In addition, there are options for products with a reinforced metal frame. The type of construction is selected taking into account technical characteristics premises.

If you have no experience in handling profiles and drywall, start with the construction simple options designs. To do this, you will only need the most necessary tools and high-quality materials. At the same time, it doesn’t hurt to study the features of the technology in detail.

Plasterboard walls

To make the frame you will need the following:

guides (parameters are selected taking into account the dimensions of the partition being created);
rack parts (selection of products is carried out based on the dimensions of the partition and the height of the room where construction is taking place);
tape for sealing (it is not necessary to use it, but it increases sound insulation);
dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer;
self-tapping screws designed for metal surfaces with parameters 2.5-3.5 cm;
water or laser level for control correct placement details;
plumb line and screwdriver;
tape measure and hammer;
construction knife;
hammer drill with drill.

Regardless of what kind of plasterboard structure you are working on, you will need to make a frame base. For cutting, it is better to use a grinder rather than scissors. Each profile used for construction has its own characteristics.

Frame components

In most cases, the material for making profiles is steel strip. The thickness of such tape is less than 1 mm. In terms of external characteristics, it looks like a long metal strip.

The steel strips that are commonly used to produce these parts have numerous advantages. That is why their popularity among consumers is so high.

Such profiles enhance the level of rigidity of the structure without unnecessary weight.

Offer modern market includes several varieties of similar materials, plus additional elements.

To erect a structure from gypsum plasterboard you will need:

rack profiles;
jumpers;
guides (aka main ones).

Characteristics of guide parts

The main frame part (PM) is U-shaped.

Center frame elements

This part is available in four standard sizes:

4x5 cm;
4x6.5 cm;
4x10 cm;
4.5x7.5 cm.

The first indicator indicates the width of the shelf, the second reflects the size of the width of the backrest. If you plan to install a decorative partition with shelves, choose a product with a wide back.

The back of the guide profile is equipped with holes for dowels. The diameter of the holes is 0.8 cm.

In some cases, parts of this type are marked UW. When selecting material to make a plasterboard partition, keep in mind that elements marked UW-50 correspond to parts marked PN (4x5 cm).

From the name it becomes clear that such profiles are used as guides. At the same time, they are attached to the floor and ceiling according to the markings. In turn, the rack profiles are fixed to the main strips.

Characteristics of rack parts

Rack elements are marked PS or CW. Standard sizes These frame parts are similar, as in the case of the guides, and completely repeat them. The width of the back in both cases is identical, since the frame installation technology assumes that the parts are inserted into each other.

Unlike the main parts, which have the same length, the rack parts have different indicators in this regard.

The following lengths are available:

3.5 m;

Such a large selection of lengths is dictated by the features of the technology, which does not allow the extension of racks if the room high ceilings.

Rack strips to strengthen the structure

Methods for creating jumpers

It will not be possible to build a frame without jumpers. These elements are also made by hand.

Jumper manufacturing options:

The edges of the guide element are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The edges are folded along the cuts made. The resulting product has one important advantage– it fits on any side of the profile. There is also a drawback to a jumper of this shape. It has a low level of strength.
Another method of making a lintel with your own hands also requires making V-shaped cuts on the profile. After which the product is bent inward. In this case, the edges are fixed to each other. Fastening with such a jumper is reliable and strong. However, this product can only be used on elements that are part of the assembled box.
Sometimes the two previous methods are combined. To do this, an incision is made from one edge of the profile, as in the first case, and from the other edge, as in the second. The advantage of this product lies in its universal use, regardless of how the parts are located in relation to each other.

Jumper manufacturing diagram

There is an option for assembling a jumper from sections of rack and guide profiles. To do this, a couple of pieces are cut from the second (the main frame material). The length of these segments is 10 cm. Next, they are inserted into a jumper made of a rack element. The main advantage of this method lies in the rational use of leftover material. In addition, the result is a reliable frame structure. There is only one drawback - cost. As a result of construction, there is more than enough scraps from the guides. But the rack profiles will have to be specially cut for these purposes.

Please read the rules before starting work. This information will help you avoid serious mistakes.

Installation of the frame base is carried out only after all elements of the communication systems have been installed. This includes wiring, ventilation, and plumbing.
When working with wooden base floor, to fix the partition in this area, it is recommended to use screws for wooden surfaces.
If the frame has a double structure, the guides and racks are treated with sealant to eliminate noise.
Horizontal joints are placed staggered.
The cables are laid perpendicular to the rack elements.
Sound and heat insulation materials are laid after the installation of electrical fittings is completed.

Features of the frame construction work

The time has come for the practical part of construction, which involves the actual use of metal profiles.

There are also nuances here:

The characteristics of all products must correspond to the operational features of the room.
The nature of the installation of gypsum boards is determined at the design stage of the structure.
Under no circumstances should heavy shelves and cabinets be hung on a plasterboard structure. GCR is a fragile material.
While working, be sure to ensure that all parameters, indentations, and sizes are observed. We must not forget about strengthening the frame.
It is not allowed to carry out work in rooms where the temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius.

At the primary stage, marking is performed for future design. To do this you will need a tracing cord. Use it to mark an axis on the floor.

Frame made of profiles

Do not forget to determine the location of the door opening if it is intended to be installed.

A plumb line and a long cord will help transfer the intended axis to the plane of the walls and ceiling. Next is executed installation installation grounds.

You will see detailed technology for constructing a metal frame base for a plasterboard partition in the video below.

Plasterboard partitions are also installed on frame base made of wood. But metal parts are easier to handle. They are stronger and more durable, and are not so vulnerable to the effects of humidity and temperature.

Sometimes rack strips bend after installation. To avoid this problem, first screw in the screws in the profile back area, and only then at the outer groove.

In contact with

In new apartments with a large area and in old apartments with an outdated layout, there is a desire to remodel the premises for yourself. From one large room You can always make two smaller ones. For these purposes, interior partitions made of plasterboard are used. They are effective solution in this situation due to its lightness and ease of installation. Also, their construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone.

Such partitions can be used to divide a nursery where children of different sexes live. Or the living room can be turned into two bedrooms. Regardless of the situation, the process of erecting plasterboard partitions in a room will be the same.

Any design must have a number of positive qualities so that it can be used in practice. Let's consider what advantages plasterboard partitions used in an apartment room can provide.

Selection of base materials

Having decided on the need to use partitions to divide the space in the room, you should understand the tools and materials that will be required for the work.

Of course, drywall comes in number one. Typical wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The sheets have a standard width of 1.2 meters and lengths of 2.5 and 3 meters. There are other parameters, but these are standard. It is better to take shorter sheets, as they are easier to carry into the house. You can take fire-resistant sheets (they have cardboard Pink colour). In this situation, they will be appropriate if the children's room is divided, and power cables will be laid in the partition itself.

Soundproofing material is fixed thanks to metal profiles

An interior partition made of plasterboard with sound insulation will allow your roommates to comfortably listen to music, watch a movie or have a quiet conversation. Since the room is divided into two parts, the use of soundproofing materials is necessary. They are installed in a metal frame.

Various profiles that can be used to assemble the frame

To assemble the frame you will need metal profiles. The standard length of such profiles ranges from 3-4 meters (shorter ones are more convenient, since it is easier to bring them into the apartment without cutting or bending). What profiles may be needed?

Guides are classics of the genre. They are attached to the surface and serve as the basis for attaching other profiles. It is convenient to cut jumpers from the guides.
The rack profile is a thrust element load-bearing structures. It seems to support the entire frame, because it is used as a vertical support.
Corner and ceiling profiles are not used when creating interior partitions.

Installation of interior partitions made of plasterboardinvolves creating a frame from profiles. But which profiles to take, since they all have different sizes? It is necessary to select the size so that the rack profile fits tightly into the guide. We need to look at this first. Otherwise, if you take 28x27 mm guides and 50x50 mm racks, you won’t be able to assemble anything. If a 50x40 guide profile is used, then 50x50 mm racks will be just right.

Selection of fasteners and tools

To attach all the elements of the interior partition from gypsum plasterboard you will need:

dowels 6x40 mm for attaching the frame to the floor, wall and ceiling;
black phosphate self-tapping screws. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25 mm if the wall plasterboard is attached in one layer. Sometimes, for greater reliability and better sound insulation of the interior partition, sheets of plasterboard are attached in two layers on top of each other. In this case, 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws will be required for the second layer;
bugs (small self-tapping screws with a drill and a press washer) are used to fasten profiles to each other. They should be as short as possible (for example, 4.2x19 mm), and the cap should be as flat as possible. The presence of a drill in the “bugs” makes it easier for them to pass through two profiles.
Sealing tape must be used. It is installed between the surface and the frame, thereby improving the sound insulation characteristics of the assembled structure.

In addition to the fasteners, you will need special tools for the job. Without them, installation of a plasterboard interior partition will not be possible. Such tools include a screwdriver, drill, level, plumb bob, tin snips, construction knife, hammer and tape measure. However, this list is not complete or mandatory. Some tools will not be needed, but others may come in handy instead (hole saw, cutter, hammer cord, hammer drill, edge plane, etc.).

When the partition for dividing the room is assembled, it will need to be prepared for finishing. For these purposes you will need:

primer;
roller with a container for it;
putty;
serpyanka;
set of spatulas;
reinforcing corners;
sandpaper.

Room layout

The quality of the partition depends on the correct layout of the room.

It is necessary to decide on the place where the partition will go. With help laser level lines are drawn on the ceiling, walls and floor. If it is not there, then you will need to draw the first line on the ceiling. To do this, you will need a water level and a long ruler (guide profile).

Using a plumb line, the extreme points of the line on the ceiling are transferred to the floor. Now there are two points on the floor, between which another line is drawn. You can use upholstery cord. Next, the only thing left to do is to draw lines on the walls in a similar way, focusing on the mark that is already on the floor and ceiling.

When you assemble interior partitions from plasterboard with your own hands, they usually have a doorway, although not always. The space under the doorway also needs to be marked in order to know where to place the profile on the floor and where to insert additional racks with mortgages.

General rules for assembling a frame for a partition

The interior partition should not rest against the window

The base of the frame is assembled from guide profiles that are attached along the perimeter of the future partition. It is most convenient to start from the ceiling. The guide is pressed against the ceiling and a hole is drilled using a drill. Then a dowel is hammered in, which presses the guide to the surface. The fastening pitch is 0.5-1 meter, depending on the upcoming operational loads. Perhaps only a couple of hangers will be hung on the partition, or maybe it will be tiled and several massive shelves for books will be attached to it.

Don't forget to use sealing tape wherever the profiles come into contact with any surface. Thanks to this, the soundproofing characteristics of the partition are improved.

The rest of the profiles are attached to the ceiling in the same way as the guide. It is not necessary to join them together in the corners. Still, the drywall in the corners cannot be secured with self-tapping screws. Now the perimeter of the future partition is ready metal profile and drywall.

Location of profiles in the frame

It is necessary to insert racks to strengthen the structure. They are inserted in increments of 40 to 60, depending on how the drywall sheets will be attached later. The fact is that the joints of the sheets must fall on the profile. Typically, racks are installed in increments of 60 cm with the expectation that the entire structure will be additionally reinforced with jumpers.

The studs should be installed sideways so that drywall can be attached to them on both sides. In other words, the ribs of the rack profile must run parallel to the plane of the frame.

When assembling an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands, it is important that the gypsum board lies flat on the frame. Therefore, the racks are attached to the guides using a special cutting tool. If it is not there, then use small metal screws. Screw in two screws in each place where the rack profile enters the guide (a total of 8 screws for each rack). However, the caps stick out a little, which is why the drywall also does not lie perfectly flat.

Jumpers make the entire frame more durable

If the vertical posts were installed in 40 cm increments, then you can do without jumpers. If the pitch is 60 cm, then you need to install several horizontal jumpers for greater structural stability. Simply cut a profile from guides that are mounted horizontally between the vertical posts. The fastening step is 50-60 cm. The jumpers are also fastened with “bugs” or using a cutter.

Jumpers can be specially installed in places where future shelves are attached to make their installation even more reliable. You can insert a wooden beam into such a jumper if you plan to hang something massive on the wall.

How to fill the void of a partition: sound insulation

Depending on the thickness of the interior plasterboard partition, you can choose how to fill the resulting void. The thickness is the sum of the width of the guide and two thicknesses of the gypsum board. The width of the guide is the same as the height of the rack profile (not to be confused with the length) and is selected individually by each person. This width gives a certain emptiness inside the partition.

You can assemble two frames for partitions at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. They are then covered with plasterboard, and a thick partition is obtained. This step is taken when they are going to place a lot of things inside such a structure.

There is enough space inside the structure to stretch power cable for connecting a socket or wall lamp. Such cables must be corrugated for fire safety purposes.

Soundproofing material must not be subject to combustion

In most cases, the cavity is filled with soundproofing material. Therefore, vertical racks are often installed in increments equal to the width of the soundproofing material. Then it fits without the need for additional trimming and does not tilt to the side. Soundproofing of interior plasterboard partitions should be carried out after one side of the structure is sheathed with plasterboard.

Soundproofing material fits comfortably into the grooves of the upper and lower profile. It will rest against the back of one post profile, but will fit well into the intercostal space of the second post. For this reason, the racks are placed so that they all face the same direction. Some people prefer to install two posts back to back so that the soundproofing fits into them and does not rest against anything.

Horizontal jumpers also serve as additional fixation for sound insulation. Although this is not all that critical, because everything will ultimately be pressed down with sheets of drywall.

Installing a doorway

It is worthwhile to dwell separately on those cases when it is necessary to install a door in interior partitions. We will not consider the process of installing the door itself, but we will focus on how to correctly make an opening for this very door.

Interior door not so heavy as to damage the partition structure

Before you make an interior partition from plasterboard, you need to decide where the door will be located. After calculating the doorway, the points where it will be located are marked on the floor. It is necessary to take into account not only the width of the door leaf, but also the door frame itself, so calculations are carried out carefully.

The floor profile is laid on both sides up to the doorway. A rack profile is inserted into each end of the guide, which goes all the way to the ceiling. Between these two profiles there will be a doorway. To indicate the height of the opening, a horizontal jumper is installed between the two profiles. All actions are carried out using a level, because errors here are especially dangerous.

It is necessary to use wooden blocks that are inserted into the racks and lintel. They must fit tightly into the profile, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The upper jumper is additionally fixed with nails, two of which are driven into its end. The resulting doorway, although it came out of a metal profile, was reinforced with wooden blocks.

Step-by-step plasterboard covering

When the frame of the interior partition is ready, then it’s just a matter of small things, because there is nothing complicated about covering with plasterboard.

Preparation for finishing

The resulting interior partition cannot remain in this form. It should be prepared for finishing.

Self-tapping screw caps do not require preliminary priming

All self-tapping screw heads must be puttied. The joints between sheets of drywall are first primed and then puttied. At the same time, priming makes sense only if the edges of the sheets have been chamfered. Using a primer will make the adhesion starting putty with a higher quality gypsum board surface. After applying the putty to the joints, you need to use a serpyanka, which will prevent the putty from cracking in these places in the future. The corner parts of the interior partition must be puttied and reinforced with a special reinforcing corner.

When the putty dries, you will need to treat it with sandpaper to remove any bumps and sagging that could have formed during the work. After this, the entire plasterboard interior partition is primed and puttied. If necessary, the second layer of finishing putty can also be treated with sandpaper.

Now the interior partition can be painted or covered with wallpaper of your choice.

The basis of a plasterboard partition is a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beam. In apartments, installing a frame made of profiles is preferable to wood. Wooden frames are more suitable for private houses and cottages. We will discuss how to install a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition in this article.

The next step after drawing the partition is to install a frame made of profiles. First, let's remember the drawing of the partition to be installed.

According to the plan, it is necessary to fence off part of the dead-end corridor to organize dressing room. The partition is installed with the door, from wall to wall. In the figure below, the future partition is indicated in red.

The partition itself is planned according to type c112. In other words, a partition on a metal frame with two layers of drywall on both sides.

We will divide the work of installing a plasterboard partition into 4 stages

Marking the partition;
Installation of a frame made of profiles;
Electrical wiring. Laying sound insulation;
Covering the frame with sheets of plasterboard;
Painting works;
Door installation.

Preparing the surface for installing the partition

The walls and floor in the place where the partition will be installed must be freed of old coatings. In principle, you can install a partition on an old floor covering. The main thing is that the base of the floor is strong, stable and motionless.

Also, the top of the plasterboard partition does not have to rest against the ceiling. You can add several additional jumpers and rack profiles (PS) to the partition frame and make the partition of any height, not up to the ceiling.

If you also plan to have plasterboard ceilings in the place where you are installing the partition, then first you need to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard and attach the partition to it. See picture below.

Important! But this installation sequence is applicable only for plasterboard ceilings and partitions. The slatted ceiling is installed after the plasterboard partition. The slatted ceiling is attached directly to the partition. At the level slatted ceiling additional jumpers from a rack profile (PS) are installed in the partition frame.

In our example, a plasterboard partition is installed from floor to ceiling. The further story is based on exactly this installation of the partition.

Partition marking

Any construction work begins with markings. To install a partition, you need to mark the boundary of the planned partition on the wall and floor. The border line must be closed. To apply it you need to use building level so that the guide marks of the future partition are strictly vertical.

You need to step back from the finishing border of the partition by the thickness of two layers of drywall and draw a second closed mark. On a mark drawn along the floor, you need to mark the alignment of the future opening under the door. The markings are ready, we proceed to attaching the guide profiles (PN).

Installation of a frame made of guide profiles (PN) for a plasterboard partition

Installation of a frame made of profiles begins with the installation of guide profiles. Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor. First, using metal scissors, you need to cut blanks of the required length from purchased 3-meter profiles. In our example, these are 3 blanks (one for the ceiling and two for the floor, to the right and left of the doorway) see the picture above.

The edge of the lower guide on the doorway side can be bent at 90° by making cuts on the profile walls at 45° (see photo).

To attach the guides, you need to drill the guides, together with the base, with a Ø 8 mm drill, every 60-70 cm and secure them with dowel nails.

Important! On the side of the profile that will be in contact with the load-bearing surfaces, you need to glue the Dichtungsband sealing tape. This is necessary for better sound insulation of the partition, and also sealing the frame will save the partition from cracks in the area of the seams in the future.

Installation of rack profiles (PS) for plasterboard partitions

Rack profiles (PS) are cut to the required length (room height) and installed in the frame. Two PS profiles (otherwise called racks) are installed on the walls and attached to the wall with double nails.

Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be glued to the frame posts that are in contact with the walls.

Two posts are fixed along the border of the doorway. These racks are inserted at the bottom and top into the guide profiles. The racks must be aligned strictly vertically and attached to the guide profiles with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter. (A cutter is a special tool for fastening metal profiles to each other).

According to the rules, frame posts for drywall are fastened every 60 cm. The fastening pitch (60 cm) is measured from the middle of the posts. This is done so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets, whose size is 1200x2500 mm, when fastened, fall into the middle of the rack and are firmly attached to the frame.

In the vertical posts in which the door will be installed, you need to insert it into the spacer wooden block and secure it to the stand with self-tapping screws. Wooden insert in the future it will simplify the installation of the door and strengthen the fastening door frame.

In our example, another rack should be fixed in the middle of the wide span (see figure).

Vertical racks installed, let's begin installing the crossbars.

Installation of cross lintels for a plasterboard partition

It is better to make the transverse jumpers of the frame for a plasterboard partition from rack profiles (PS). They have great rigidity. They are attached as shown in Fig. In our example, there will be 7 crossbars.

The crossbars are attached to the vertical posts as follows.

One side of the cross profile is inserted into the rack. But it's not entirely simple! The rack profile has rounded edges to enhance rigidity. Therefore, where the crossbar is inserted into the rack, the rounded edges of the rack must be straightened using pliers.

The second side of the cross profile must first be prepared. In the photo you see what design needs to be cut out using metal scissors. It is not difficult. First, cuts are made along the profile. The resulting “LANGUAGE” is bent and it is this that is screwed to the flat side of the vertical post. Then the sides are cut off.

All fastenings are made with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter.

There is another way to attach transverse profiles. Cut the crossbars as shown in the picture and insert them into the racks.

After completing all the work described above, we can consider that the installation of a frame made of profiles for a plasterboard partition is complete. After completing the work, do not forget to check its quality. The frame should not swing or even move a little. The vertical posts of the doorway must be strictly vertical.

Let's summarize the installation of a frame made of profiles

The frame for the plasterboard partition is ready. It is rigidly attached to the floor and walls. The doorway has the same width throughout its entire height. The width of the opening is equal to the width of the door with the frame plus 3-4 cm for foaming.

All that remains is to lay the electrical wiring inside the partition in corrugation, sew up one side of the partition with sheets of plasterboard, lay sound insulation inside the partition, and sew up the other side with plasterboard. Then spend Painting works and install the door. After this, the partition can be considered installed.

But more on this in the next article.

Especially for the site: Everything about apartment renovation

Types of profiles for partitions

In order to qualitatively bring designs made from plasterboard materials to life, you first need to understand what the frame will be like, because it directly decides how high-quality, stable and durable the structure will be. To choose the most suitable one, you need to choose which profile to use for plasterboard partitions.

Basically, the elements for the frame are made of tape made of steel, which is a fairly durable material. They can be different sizes, basically, the figure varies from 0.55 millimeters to 0.8 millimeters thick. And the profiles themselves are long slats made of metal. Metal profiles are widely used in the construction market, including to equip the frame when a person is going to build a gypsum plasterboard fence.

Profiles for plasterboard partitions come in several types, each of them is used for its intended purpose:

Profiles that are guides.
Rack-mounted.
Jumpers.

In order not to encounter difficulties when working with the frame, you should clearly understand which of the drywall profiles should be used in the process, and what each of them is intended for. A thoughtfully constructed frame from profiles of the selected type will help to build a long-lasting and stable structure from plasterboard sheets.

Guide profiles

After watching the video online, it will become clear that the NP is made in a “P” shape. These types of profiles are produced in 4 sizes:

50 by 40 mm;
65 by 40 mm;
75 by 45 mm;
100 by 40 mm.

The number written first indicates the width of the rear part of the beam, and the second number indicates the width of the flange of the profile made of metal. In the part where the back of the structure is located, which is a guide for the frame, which are equipped under plasterboard surfaces, regardless of how wide they are, there are holes that are needed for dowels. The hole sizes are 8 millimeters in diameter. The length of the profile, regardless of the width of the beams, is 3 meters.

Guide profile

Without guide profiles, it will not be possible to make a partition, namely a frame for it. When this type of profile is installed, you need to fix the rack profiles on top of the prepared structure.

Rack profiles

Attached to the profile, which is a rack-mount guide. It is a beam having a “C-shaped” shape. These structures are inserted inside the guide element, forming a frame used by the base for the partition. Profiles come in four sizes:

50 by 50 mm;
65 by 50 mm;
75 by 50 mm;
100 by 50 mm.

When choosing the size needed for profiles that serve as guides for good and durable design, you need to start from the size of the gypsum boards, how complex architectural forms will be in the partition.

Rack profile

In addition to choosing the width of the diameter of the profile beams, you should choose the correct length. This will help ensure that the base of the lathing under the plasterboard partition dividing the space becomes uniform and proportionally even. The length of the profiles can be as follows:

three meters;
three and a half meters;
four meters.

So different parameters lengths are required so that the assembled finished plasterboard construction was level, without differences in surface heights. Using rack profiles of the selected length, best idea It will be better to take large beams, which will be cut later, than to take short ones.

Rack and guide profile

If the materials used are beams that are shorter than the height of the walls, there is a risk of getting an unreliable and fragile structure. She simply will not be able to hold the partition in the desired angle.

Jumpers

A plasterboard partition with a door or an arch must be made strong, which is why, in addition to the guide and rack element of the frame, they are reinforced with jumpers, which can be selected in construction stores or use a homemade one.

Jumper between rack profiles

How to make a jumper

Jumper manufacturing options with my own hands some. Before assembling the element and making a finished lintel, which is ideal for attaching a plasterboard surface, you need to study the technology.

The cuts are made at the edges of the guide parts of the frame; the angle of the notch should be 45 degrees. The jumpers are then bent at the edges. It is good to make such a jumper for any side of the frame. However, if there is basic knowledge in carrying out such a procedure, it is better to have a more reliable foundation under the drywall. This will help improve the strength level.
We assemble the second option using “V-shaped” cuts. After the cuts are made, gather up all the folded edges, connecting them together. Such jumpers are strong, but it is better to assemble them if a frame is installed, in the form of a box.
There are methods for assembling a jumper that combine the first and second methods. In the video it is easy to understand what the peculiarity of the assembly of the element is; one side is cut along the edges, and the other in a “V-shaped” way, thus, you can vary the reinforcing part in width and organize a frame structure for both the doors and the partition itself.
There is another method that is affordable and allows you to rationally use the remaining profiles after installing the guides and rack beams. This method is the best idea if the master needs a firmly standing partition and securely fixed doors on it. To construct such a jumper, you need to cut two pieces of the guide profile, each of which is 10 centimeters long. After cutting, they are inserted into the lintel of the rack profile. This method may also be unprofitable in price if the structures for the frame were purchased without stock, and the part is made from purposefully purchased additional material.

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Required tools and materials

When working on plasterboard, as well as with a frame, you need special tools that will make the work easier, and materials that will help you correctly mount the profile under the plasterboard partition. These are:

guide profiles with the selected width and in the required quantity;
rack profiles of the required quantity;
tape for sealing (if the owner plans to insulate and increase the sound insulation of the partition);
nails dowels;
self-tapping screws for metal surfaces with a diameter of 25 to 35 mm;
self-tapping screws with a washer that presses the fixing surfaces;
level for measuring height differences;
plumb line;
hammer for work done by hand;
roulette;
a screwdriver will be needed to facilitate the work process;
construction knife;
perforator;

Profile tool

It is best to purchase high-quality materials and tools so that the frame structure for the plasterboard partition is durable and lasts for many years.

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Profile installation

To correctly mount the frame, you need to act step by step, without missing out important details. The sequence of actions is as follows:

The sequence of fastening the profiles is standard: first, the guide beams are fixed, then the racks and lintels. Some craftsmen assemble the structure outside the wall, preferring to fix the finished sheathing, while others assemble it at the site where the partition is installed.
Afterwards, the guide profile, at the request of the specialist and the owners, is covered with sealing tape. This will help increase heat and sound insulation in the space behind the partition. The profiles are fixed on the wall in increments of no more than one meter and no less than three dowels around the perimeter of the profile.
Rack profiles are first attached to the floor, then fixed along the wall towards the ceiling. To accurately install the rack profiles, you need to measure the height difference with a level and, if necessary, lay the footrests so that the structure is perfectly level.
If you plan to install doors in a partition, then you need to install guide profiles at the location of the future door, and fix the rack beams at the joints of the plasterboard sheets.
The last step is to install the jumpers. They are necessary if you plan a bulky, heavy gypsum plasterboard structure. Jumpers will help increase the strength of the frame and make it stable and durable.

By carefully performing the installation of the frame under the partition according to the instructions, you can achieve best results and get the perfect profile that will help realize even the most an extraordinary idea in interior design of a house or apartment. Return to contents

Photo selection of assembled plasterboard partition frames

In the vast majority of cases, plasterboard structures are assembled on a frame made of galvanized profiles. In this article I want to talk about how and with the use of which components the frame for a plasterboard partition and lathing are mounted when leveling the wall using gypsum plasterboard.

A gypsum plasterboard partition in the process of installation.

Materials

First, a brief introduction to the profiles and supporting materials:

The CD ceiling profile has a standard size of 60x27 millimeters. It has relatively low bending rigidity due to the low height of the side walls. Attached to capital structures in increments of no more than 80 cm;

Ceiling profile CD.

The UD ceiling guide profile with a section of 27x28 mm is designed to connect the ends of the ceiling CD with the capital structures of the building at right angles. There is no corrugation of the walls, which increases bending rigidity. The typical fastening pitch is 50 - 60 centimeters;

Ceiling guide UD.

The CW rack profile, as the name suggests, is intended for the manufacture of frame racks. The wall configuration provides maximum rigidity with respect to bending load. Rack profile dimensions - 50x50, 50x75 and 50x100 mm; the wider it is, the higher its bending strength;

CW with a section of 50x75 millimeters.

The height of the UW guide profile is always 40 mm, while the width is in the same range as that of the rack profile - 50, 75 and 100 mm. The purpose of UW is to connect racks with adjacent structures at right angles. It is attached at the same pitch as the ceiling guide profile;

UW guide profile.

Direct suspension - a U-shaped fastening that allows you to fix long sections of a ceiling or any other profile to the ceiling or main wall;

Direct suspension with its main dimensions.

Corner profile - perforated corner to strengthen the outer corners of walls. Placed under putty and protects the corner from accidental damage (for example, when transporting furniture).

Perforated galvanized corner.

Galvanized corner profiles are not the only material for protecting corners. For the same purposes, perforated plastic corners with reinforcing mesh are used. I prefer another way to strengthen the outer corners: after finishing finishing works A decorative outer PVC corner is glued onto the painted surface.

The corner of the plasterboard partition is protected from damage by decorative plastic corner, mounted on silicone sealant.

For fastening the following are used:

Metal screws (galvanized or phosphated) 9 mm long for connecting profiles to each other;

Self-tapping screw for connecting frame elements.

Dowel screws measuring 6x60 - 8x80 mm. They fix the guide profile and hangers.

Dowel screws measuring 6x60 mm.

Let me clarify: for fastening to wooden walls and ceilings (including plastered partitions in Stalinka buildings), you can use ordinary phosphated self-tapping screws 45 - 70 mm long.

Tool

Now let’s talk about what tools you will have to stock up on before starting work.

The main tool for assembling plasterboard structures.

Restrictions

GCR can only be used for finishing and installation interior walls and partitions. It is not used on the street.

GKLV (moisture-resistant material) racks specifically to high humidity(due to the low hygroscopicity of the gypsum core and the presence of antiseptic additives); Constant contact with water will cause it to swell just like any other plaster product.

Even moisture-resistant plasterboard Prolonged contact with water is contraindicated.

Installation

Wall alignment

First, let’s talk about how to install a frame under plasterboard on a wall when leveling it:

The plane of the frame is marked on the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling. The shorter the distance from the guide profile to the main wall, the less effective area the premises will be inaccessible after completion of the work. The distance can be increased only if it is necessary to insulate the wall or when laying behind the cladding engineering communications significant cross-section (ventilation ducts or sewers);

When marking, mark the line of future cladding on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling using a plumb line and connect the two lines with markings on the walls made using a ruler or profile.

A plumb line will help you mark the floor and ceiling in the same plane.

Along the markings along the perimeter of the future false wall, a ceiling guide profile UD is attached with dowels and screws. The step between the attachment points should not exceed 60 cm;
In increments of exactly 60 cm, vertical lines for attaching the ceiling profile are marked on the main wall;
Along these lines, in increments of about 80 cm, direct hangers are attached with dowel-screws;
Ceiling profiles are cut to size and inserted into the guides;
Each ceiling profile is alternately aligned with a ruler, a long level or the edge of another CD profile pressed against it, after which the suspension ears are attached to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall.

Ready sheathing for leveling the wall.

A nuance: if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the plasterboard sheet, it is advisable to mount a horizontal jumper at the connection of each whole sheet with the additional one. The edges of adjacent sheets should always be attached to a common profile to avoid cracks at the seams. The jumpers are made from the same CD with the side walls trimmed and bent at the ends.

Lathing with jumpers for connection with additional sheets.

After installing the last CD, the frame is ready for covering.

How to properly make a frame for plasterboard on a wall with insulation?

The instructions are not complicated. After attaching the guide profile and direct hangers, the wall is covered with slabs of glued mineral wool, the thickness corresponding to the distance from the main wall to the sheathing.

You should not use polystyrene foam to insulate walls. Yes, its price is lower, but its vapor permeability is also lower. If the ventilation of the room is poor, it is possible that water vapor will pass through the gypsum board and condense on the insulation, forming puddles on the floor.

The ears of the suspensions, bent at right angles to the wall, are passed directly through the slots in the insulation boards made sharp knife. When installing ceiling profiles and covering the frame, the insulation will be securely pressed against the wall.

The insulation is securely fixed by the sheathing elements.

How to make a frame for drywall on the wall if the length of the ears of direct hangers is not enough to attach the sheathing at the required distance from the main wall?

Here are two simple solutions:

Connect the suspensions in pairs, pulling the ears of the first and second suspensions towards each other with self-tapping screws;

Two series-connected hangers will provide the required distance from the wall.

Instead of lathing from a ceiling profile, assemble a frame from a rack profile at the required distance from the wall. I will tell you how to do this in the next section.

Partition

How to make a frame for drywall for walls between rooms?

Marking the partition line is completely identical to that described above: it is done using a tape measure, ruler, pencil and plumb line;
According to the markings, the UW guide profile is attached to the capital structures with dowel screws. Step - the same 50-60 cm;
The positions of the racks are marked on the floor and ceiling in increments of exactly 60 cm. The markings should be a couple of centimeters away from the UW guide: these marks will come in handy when you begin covering the partition with plasterboard;

The step between the axes of the racks must be exactly 60 centimeters.

The accuracy of the step between the posts is important because the width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step. Then the edges of adjacent sheets will fall exactly in the middle of the racks.

The racks are cut to length and fastened according to the marks made earlier using metal screws. If the height of the partition exceeds the length of the sheet, in this case it is worth connecting the racks with horizontal jumpers. They are cut from a rack profile.

By making cutouts in the racks, you can use the cavities in the partition to lay communications.

How to cut a door into a partition?

A gap is left in the lower guide profile along the width of the doorway;
A vertical stand is mounted at one edge;
Box with installed and wedged in it door leaf is attracted to the rack profile by screws screwed through it with a length of 16-25 mm. It would be a good idea to first apply a strip of foam to the profile or the outside of the box;
In a similar way, a second stand is attached to the second side;
From above, a jumper between the posts from the same CW profile is attached to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame.

Trimming the door block profile.

How to install a skylight in a partition with your own hands (for example, in a bathroom)?

The only difference from the door is that the horizontal lintels are attached both above and below the window opening.

Door and skylight in plasterboard wall attic bathroom in my house.

How to make a frame for shelves or niches?

The partition frame is made double, with a distance between the guide profiles and racks equal to the expected depth of the niches or shelves (of course, adjusted for the thickness of the cladding);
Adjacent racks are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers made of a rack profile;
When the depth of the niches exceeds 25 - 30 cm, additional connections are installed between the two frames, which will become a support for horizontal surfaces.

Ready-made partition frame with niches.

Little tricks

How to increase the rigidity of the septum?

Use a rack profile greater width(not 50, but 75 or 100 millimeters);
If minimum wall thickness is important to you, invest in studs bar mortgages section 50x50 mm;

Racks with wooden inserts.

When installing the partition I simply connected the rack CWs in pairs, turning them in opposite directions and nesting them inside each other.

The maximum rigidity of the partition in the photo with its minimum thickness is ensured by the pairwise connection of the rack profile.

In addition: the strength of the partition will increase noticeably with two-layer plasterboard sheathing. Sheets of the first and second layers are attached with overlapping horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 25-30 pieces per sheet, the second layer with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50-70 pieces per sheet.

How to ensure maximum noise insulation between rooms separated by a gypsum plasterboard partition?

When assembling the frame, place it under the guide profiles damper tape. It will eliminate the transmission of acoustic vibrations from the partition to the capital structures of the building, thereby cutting off low-frequency noise;
Fill the partition frame mineral wool . Lay the slabs without gaps: each cavity will become a resonator, amplifying the sound;

The frame is filled with mineral wool slabs.

Finally, most effective sound insulation can be organized acoustically decoupling the wall surfaces from each other. To do this, the guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the partition in two rows, and the racks are installed in a checkerboard pattern. Each post is in contact with only one side of the partition.

Conclusion

As you can see, installation of profile frames is simple and does not require any specific skills. You can study the sheathing assembly process more clearly by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Drywall is versatile and the most common material for creating partitions in rooms. Partitions can be made in both decorative and classic designs, flat view. Regardless of the type of partition, the frame requires a special metal profile.

To install the partition, to begin with, attach the guide profile, then frame profiles are installed into it. The profiles are joined together using small screws with a drill at the end.

Which profile should I use for partitions?

Plasterboard partitions are considered one of the most budget-friendly partitions. They are easy to install, even with your own hands.

Drywall is universal material . It can be used as partitions in a room, for partitions in a bathroom and other rooms. In addition, entire decorative structures can be created from plasterboard.

The frame for mounting plasterboard slabs is metal profiled slats(metal profile for drywall). Depending on the nature and type of wall, there are different types of plasterboard profiles. The thickness of standard profiles can be 0.55-0.8 mm. The profile length can be 3 or 4 m.p.

Using such profiles, you can create durable partitions, capable of withstanding significant loads.

Share profile by marking:

UW (MON)– this is a guide profile for a frame under plasterboard. It looks like a channel (U-shaped). Produced in 4 standard sizes: UW-50 (50x40), UW-65 (65x40), UW-75 (75x40), UW-100 (100x40);
CW (PS)– This is a rack profile for drywall. They can be up to 4 meters long. This is explained by the fact that with large, high-rise ceilings, so as not to add height in pieces for a more durable structure.

How to make a partition from profiles?

Before installing the partition, it is necessary to purchase material (two types of metal profiles: UW guides and CW racks).

Also required screws, quick-installation dowels, mineral wool and drywall.

To install a partition from profiles, you need to do the following actions:

Prepare the tool(level, tape measure, plumb line, hammer, utility knife, hammer drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter, screwdriver for fastening work);
The next step will be site marking installation of the guide profile. To do this, you need a tape measure, a level, a long, level shelf or a building rule;
To make it even move markup on the ceiling and wall, a plumb line is used. And lines are already drawn along it;
After marking, you can proceed to installation of a partition;
First we lean the guide profile UW and drill holes straight through it, with a distance of 50 cm between the holes;
Insert dowels quick installation in drilled holes and hammer it in;
Same profile mounted on the ceiling;
You can go to installation of CW profile. They are attached every 50-70 cm, depending on the partition and the load they will bear. The rack profile is fastened using metal screws;
When the rack profiles are installed, you can carry out layout electric cable , install drywall, additional lintels, insert wooden mortgages on doorways, fasten drywall.

How to attach drywall to a profile?

Drywall has type of sheets, with a total area of 3 m2. These are slabs, inside of which the filler is frozen gypsum mixture, and on the sides they are generously covered with durable paper cardboard.

The sheets have back and front sides, therefore you should carefully examine the sheet and carefully lay it on the frame of profiles.

On the front there is marks for screwing it to the frame. The sheet should be mounted along them. Of course, deviations from the marks are allowed.

At the junction of the plasterboard with the profile there is special recesses, which are intended for gluing with mesh or non-woven tape and sealing the seam with putty.

As for direct fastening of drywall, here you need screw with feeling, so as not to pinch, but the head of the screw must be hidden behind the surface of the drywall.

Also see:

Information on what to make interior partitions from.

Which partitions are better in an apartment - useful information here

How to make a partition - expert advice here.

If this happens, it's no big deal, it's just unscrew it back and screw it in another place, and the hole will be sealed with putty.

Also see useful video lesson on installing profiles and installing drywall

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly smooth walls. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster it along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Attachment to frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. The standard sizes are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select those that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN profile has standard depth(wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “flea beetles” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two racks is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, they are still placed in the middle between them vertical profile, otherwise this area will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large, place it every 60 cm; if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height of the door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or at wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
We place a block under the cut line;
on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

In any construction work Technology is always important; it is this that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the repair result. But, often, builders make technological mistakes, some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's look at the main mistakes using the example of working with a metal profile.

1. Violations of frame installation technology

Failure to follow the technology with metal profiles or the profiles not matching their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for profiles for curved ceiling surfaces.

By to this photo it is clear that the master, unfortunately, in principle does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers; the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the sheets of drywall are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this design will be flimsy, and the fastening of the drywall will be unreliable, which will lead to the appearance of a crack after repair.

2. Errors when cutting profiles

To uniformly cut the profile for the purpose of installing curved structures, you should never use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, and in addition, the galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which in the future this place will be susceptible to corrosion. The work of cutting metal profiles should be performed only with special metal scissors (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.

3. Wrong selection of profile

A common mistake among builders of various qualifications is when the structure of the box for partitions is made from a ceiling profile, instead of a rack (PS 50/50) and a guide (PN 50/40).

The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately comes into question.

Using a ceiling profile to frame partitions is a complete divergence from technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.

4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame

During construction suspended ceiling builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what should the frame be secured to? IN best case scenario this is concrete, but if it is wood or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then this is where problems arise, as in the photo. IN in this case builders in some places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.

As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the supporting profile without a two-level connector. The supporting profile itself is pressed to the boards, also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that, over time, cracks will inevitably form along the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The frame layout is also broken - the pitch of the profiles is chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. If the technology is followed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be mounted on special perforated or spring hangers. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).

5. Bending the profile walls

A striking example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers the profile was simply bent.

And here, the supporting crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also turned horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.

This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is compromised, as the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.

6. Fixing the gypsum board sheet with the wrong side

Some builders consider the question of which side to fix the drywall to be unimportant - the front or the back? The photograph shows how, when covering a wall with gypsum board sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side facing out. The peculiarity of this plasterboard is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet in wet rooms, as well as the formation of fungus.

7. Error in attaching drywall sheets

Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is its improper fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in staggered order that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is low quality cladding. Sheets must be taken to the maximum bigger size, and do not join small pieces over an area of 1 sq/m.

Even experienced craftsmen It’s worth improving your knowledge, for example, at the KNAUF Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems made of gypsum plasterboard and profiles is associated with adherence to technology!