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An online calculator for calculating the amount of timber per house can now be found on the website of any major building materials seller. But if for some reason the calculator is not available, how to calculate the amount of timber per house manually? Obviously, you will have to remember a half-forgotten school geometry course.
If several standard sizes of lumber are used during construction, the calculation of the amount of timber per house is carried out separately for each of them. Let's say, with timber 200*200 and internal partitions From a material with a cross-section of 100*100, we separately calculate the volume for the permanent enclosing structures and for the partition.
Negligible quantities
As you can see, without using an online calculator, it is not difficult to calculate how much timber you need for your house.
However, it is worth understanding that with the above calculation scheme we deliberately neglect some of the subtleties of construction:
- The actual volume of each wall will be slightly less than the calculated volume due to the fact that the rectangular parallelepipeds that represent the walls partially intersect in space;
- In addition, we completely neglect window and door openings (with the exception of floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows).
The reason we ignore these points is extremely simple: none of these factors affects the volume of purchases.
As a rule, when designing and building a log house with your own hands, the dimensions of the structure are deliberately made multiples of the length of the lumber that is supposed to be used.
Additional sections are used in construction extremely rarely, because they:
- Reduce mechanical strength log structure, its ability to withstand deforming loads;
- They deteriorate the thermal insulation of the building due to blown seams;
It is worth clarifying: insulation strongly depends on the method of cutting adjacent sections.
A horizontal connection in half a tree is indeed blown by all the winds, but if you turn it vertically, in terms of thermal insulation the connection will be no different from a solid crown.
- They require unnecessary time spent on unnecessary connections.
reference Information
Lumber in large volumes is bought and sold by the cubic meter. The price is indicated by the seller exactly per unit of volume.
However, in some cases, the buyer needs to purchase a small amount of timber, measured in units. Most typical example— purchasing materials for beams or floor joists: it is much easier to count the number of beams at a known pitch than their total volume.
In this case, he may find the following table useful, relevant for a measured length of 6 meters.
Examples of calculations
Problem 1
The instructions for performing calculations are already familiar to us; All that remains is to follow the above algorithm.
- The perimeter of the house is 6*4=24 meters. Square outer wall— 24*2.7=64.8 m2;
- The horizontal section of the beam in SI units corresponds to 0.15 m;
- The volume of the walls is thus 64.8*0.15=9.72 m3.
Problem 2
Let’s complicate the task, still without using a calculator: how to calculate the number of cubes of timber for a house measuring 12*12*3.5 meters, if the external walls are built from lumber with a cross-section of 250*250, and the internal cross-shaped partition dividing the building into four equal sections room area - made of timber with a cross section of 100*100 mm?
It is not difficult to guess that in this case the area of the external walls and the partition will be the same. Let's calculate this area: 12*4*3.5=168 m2.
Now we convert the thickness of the walls into SI values:
- 250 mm = 0.25 m;
- 100 mm = 0.1 m.
So, we will need 168*0.25=42 cubic meters of larger section material for the external walls and 168*0.1=16.8 m3 of 100*100 timber for the partition.
Advice: in practice, it is better not to increase them to improve their thermal insulation qualities, but to insulate the house from the outside with mineral wool slabs.
Thus the owner will receive better insulation at much lower costs.
Problem 3
- The height of its two floors is 6.5 meters;
- Dimensions - 6*12 meters;
- The thickness of the external walls is 200 mm (timber 200*200);
- The thickness of the partitions is 100 mm, the height is 3.1 meters, and their total length on both floors is 92 meters;
- The house has three floors on beams measuring 150*100 mm, laid in 1-meter increments.
Let's break down a relatively complex task into several stages.
- We calculate the volume of lumber for the external walls of the log house. It is equal to (6+6+12+12)*6.5*0.2=46.8 m3;
- We calculate the volume of material for the internal partition. 92*3.1*0.1=28.52 m3;
- We count the number of beams. When laying transversely, each floor will require 13 pieces (the first and last beams are located directly next to the walls parallel to them); for all three floors you will need 13*3=39 pieces;
B rus is a fairly popular material for building a bathhouse in a country house, due to its relative cheapness and manufacturability. You can build a bathhouse from or from laminated timber without having special knowledge and special experience. You can spend one day in a team that is building a bathhouse and you can assemble the walls from timber yourself. Of course, a lot depends on the quality of the original building material and general construction skills.
Methods for calculating the amount of timber
In order to correctly calculate the required quantity of timber required for the construction of bathhouse walls, several methods can be used, each of which, unfortunately, will only give an approximate result that cannot take into account the quality of the lumber.
If a batch contains poor quality timber, it will either have to be replaced or used for other household needs. The calculations do not take into account openings, both doors and windows. After the calculation, you should add the volume of timber that will go to the floor and ceiling beams, to the racks or frame on the veranda.
If the walls inside the bathhouse have the same thickness, then they are counted together with the exterior ones; if the partitions are covered with timber of a smaller cross-section, then we count it separately. After the final calculation, we add another 10 - 15% to the final amount - this will be a more accurate figure that will reflect the real need for timber.
We count and get cubes
We find the total length of the timber wall, multiply it by the height of the wall and multiply the resulting figure by the thickness of the wall. For example, the length of the load-bearing wall according to the design of a bathhouse made of 6x6 m timber with a warm veranda is 34 m. The height of the wall is 3 m, we will build the bathhouse from 150 mm (0.15) timber. Multiply, we get 15.3 cubic meters
We count and get things
As in the first option, we find the length load-bearing walls- 34 meters and divide it by the length of the beam, which is always 6 meters. We get a figure indicating the number of pieces of timber that goes into laying 1 crown of a bathhouse 34 /6 = 5.67 pieces. The height of the walls is 3 meters, which means there are 20 crowns of 150x150 timber. 20x5.67=113.4 pcs. timber.
Checking the correctness of the received calculations
We check the calculations we received in a simple way. This will give us complete confidence in their correctness. There are 7.4 pcs in one cubic meter. timber 150x150. Let’s take and compare our previously obtained data: 15.3x7.4=113.22 pcs. timber.
The result is rounded up to 114 pcs. and add 10% - we get the amount of timber for the construction of a bathhouse from 6x6 timber for this project. Don't forget about the floor and ceiling beams.
Data required for the calculation
- Length of load-bearing timber wall;
- The height of the wall being constructed;
- Wall thickness.
The length of the wall can be found by simply adding up all the load-bearing walls. If the bathhouse has a complex configuration, then its plan can be drawn on a sheet of paper in a box to scale and the walls can be measured with a ruler.
Wall thickness is the size of the width of the timber that will be used during construction.
It is better to choose an average height of 3 meters. Taking into account the shrinkage of the bathhouse by 15 cm, the arrangement of the ceiling and floor, the ceiling height will be only 2.3 meters and this is provided that the floor beams are at the level of the first beam and the rafters lie on the walls. The height will decrease when finishing ceiling by 10 cm with plasterboard and by 5-8 cm on the floor when finishing.
Wall thickness is the size of the width of the timber that will be used during construction.
An example of calculating the amount of timber for a bathhouse measuring 6 by 9 meters
Let’s calculate for example how much timber is required for a bathhouse 6 m by 9 m, with two internal partitions made of the same timber. We assume the thickness of the wall is 0.15 meters. Estimated height of the building: 3 meters.
- Total length of the timber wall in the bathhouse: 6 x 4 + 2 x 9 = 42 meters
- We multiply the length by the height and thickness of the wall: 42 x 3 x 0.15 = 18.9 cubic meters of timber 150 by 150
- The construction length of the beam is 6 meters. There are 7.4 pcs in 1 cubic meter. such timber. Multiply 18.9 x 7.4 = 140 pcs. timber 150x150 6 meters long.
If the floor and ceiling beams are made of boards, then this amount of timber will be sufficient. If not, then you should take into account the timber on the beams, which are placed every meter and for such a bathhouse you may need 14 more pieces, which will amount to 2 additional cubes of timber.
And a brief “reminder” of the number of cubes in a timber (board) coniferous species different ratios of width and thickness for products 10 meters long. It will help you check the calculations made and prevent mistakes.
Table for calculating the amount of timber in cubes with various parameters, volume in 10 linear meters
Timber is really a good modern choice for building a bathhouse in the country or suburban area. High-quality, properly prepared and processed material will last for many years, and careful treatment of it and periodic treatment with special compounds will make your bathhouse almost “eternal.”
Before purchasing any building material, it is necessary to determine as accurately as possible required quantity, otherwise you may lose some amount due to remaining surpluses or the need for additional purchases, as well as the unaccounted for possibility of deception on the part of unscrupulous sellers. Timber, logs, boards and similar wood products, as you know, are sold in cubic meters, which means you need to know in every detail the calculations for determining the volume of these materials, as well as converting the required number of pieces into cubes and back. And in the case of purchasing timber for building a house, when calculating the required amount of this building material, it is also necessary to take into account the design and features of the future building.
Basic calculations - determining volume and converting from pieces to cubes and back
It is very simple to calculate the cubic capacity of timber, boards and similar lumber. To do this, you need to know the thickness, width (height) and length of the product. And, as you know from a school textbook on geometry, you need to multiply these dimensions:
V = T ∙ H ∙ L, where
V – volume of timber, m3;
T – thickness;
H – width;
L – length.
Dimensions before calculation should be given in one unit of measurement: mm, cm or m. It is better in meters, so as not to have to convert from mm 3 or cm 3 to m 3 later.
Timber size table
For example, let’s calculate the cubic capacity of a beam of 150x200. These dimensions, as you know, are indicated in mm. That is, the thickness of the product is 0.15 m and the width is 0.2 m. The standard length of timber and boards is 6 m (sometimes also indicated in mm - 6000). Or maybe another. But for example, let’s take exactly 6 m. Then the volume of this lumber is:
0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 = 0.18 m 3.
Now you can convert the required quantity (in pieces) of this product into cubes. Let's say 49 pieces are required:
0.18 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m3.
Knowing the volume of one product, you can also calculate the cube of timber, that is, determine how many units (pieces) there are in 1 m3. To do this, you need to divide 1 cube by the cubic capacity of one product, already calculated or taken from reference tables (in the example under consideration - 0.18 m3):
1 / 0.18 = 5.55555... pcs.
The amount of this type of timber is calculated in the same way for any volume.
Nuances of calculations - how not to make mistakes and not be deceived
As follows from the above methods and calculation examples, it is very easy to calculate the required volume of timber in pieces or cubic meters. However, one must always remember that 1 cubic meter does not contain a whole number of these products. For the example given with dimensions 150x200, length 6 m - 5.55555... pcs. Unscrupulous, most often timber retailers, cleverly take advantage of this.
For example, you need 1 cube of this material from the example. The seller, of course, sells 5 products, but charges the amount for a whole cubic meter. The overpayment will be the cost of half a beam.
Let’s say that to build a house you need the same 49 beams from the example. And if the seller calculates according to the following scheme, then he will have to significantly overpay for the timber received:
- 1 cube – 5 products 150x200, 6 m long;
- 49/5 = 9.8 cubic meters payable.
This is a dilution of the purest water into 5 units of timber. They are superfluous and unnecessary, but will be paid for but not received. In the calculation examples above, the data of 49 products has already been converted into cubes - this is 8.82 m 3. That is, a “particularly enterprising” seller will deceive an inattentive buyer by:
9.8 – 8.82 = 0.98 m 3 timber,
which is 0.98/0.18 = 5.44444... pcs. of this lumber (0.18 – the volume of one product calculated above).
Therefore, the most correct thing would be to calculate in advance exactly the number of units (pieces) of material, and only then, using this data and the dimensions of the timber or board, calculate their actual cubic capacity.
That is, in the case of purchasing one cubic meter in the example above, you must first decide how many beams you really need to take - 5 or 6. And then we calculate their cubic capacity:
0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 5 (or 6 pcs.) = 0.9 (or 1.08) m 3.
And for 49 units of this timber:
0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m 3.
Then you will have to pay exactly for these 0.9 (1.08) or 8.82 cubes, receiving exactly 5 (6) or 49 products. Moreover, both the quantity in pieces and the volume in m3 must be indicated in the invoice for the timber sold by the seller.
Other features of calculating lumber cubic capacity
Another one important feature, which you should know for correct calculation cubic capacity of timber or boards when purchasing them. The actual length of lumber is usually always slightly longer than the standard or declared by the manufacturer of this product. So, instead of 6 m, the average length of the timber in question is, as a rule, 6.05 m. This is due to the fact that the ends of the lumber are not processed after cutting, which is why they may turn out to be uneven, go at angles, and be different, or simply be dirty. Of course, you don’t have to pay for these 5 cm. But some cunning sellers, although quite rarely, still try to take even this into account when calculating cubic meters, which is pure deception.
And regarding calculations for tongue and groove and profiled timber. The presence of tenons, grooves, and other protruding or chiseled places should not be confusing. Calculating the cubic capacity of such materials is no different from determining the volume of ordinary products that are even on all sides. For tongue-and-groove and profiled lumber, the rule is that only the main part (working width) of the product is measured and taken into account, and all structurally necessary and/or decorative elements are not taken into account in calculations. This provision applies to absolutely all types of timber.
Purchase of large volumes of materials - calculation of folded and dense cubic meters
When it is necessary to purchase a large amount of timber, their cubic capacity is calculated somewhat differently than discussed above. For example, timber and boards are needed to build an impressive, spacious house, as well as various other outbuildings near it. At the same time, the necessary lumber will certainly be available different sizes in cross section and length. Measuring and calculating each type of required material for such purchase volumes is an activity that can take more than one day.
For such cases, there is a specific calculation method. It is based on two important concepts:
- 1. Dense cubic meter of wood. This is the name given to a volume occupied only by wood and without voids or gaps in it. It is determined by measuring individual timber pieces individually, and then subsequently calculating their total cubic capacity.
- 2. Folding cubic meter. This is the name given to the volume occupied by lumber stacked as densely as possible and having voids, as well as gaps between individual wood products. It is determined by measuring the stack and then multiplying the dimensions of the latter. Moreover, in such a package the main amount of material should have approximately the same length, and the remaining products can be shorter, but not longer. It is allowed to have short lumber in the stacks, which should be stacked tightly one after another.
In order to quickly calculate the large volume of required purchased lumber, which has already been prepared and stored in the form of a stack, the latter is first measured and then its cubic capacity is calculated. This will calculate the fold cubic capacity. Then its value must be multiplied by a special conversion factor. The result will be a volume of only wood (a dense cubic meter), that is, exactly those materials that are purchased and will be paid for.
The value of the conversion factor is regulated by a number of standards for lumber: GOST 6782.2-75, 6782.1-75, 6564-84, OST 13-24-86 and others. For timber and boards, depending on their moisture content and the type of wood from which they are made, the value is in the range of 0.74–0.82.
We calculate the required cubic capacity of timber for building a house
- Height external walls, measured from the foundation level. Let's denote it as H.
- The height of the internal partition walls, if they exist and should be made of timber.
- Length of external and internal walls.
- Number and length of beams used in rafter system, as floor beams and, as well as in its other structures - if provided for by the project.
Then we select the thickness of the material for each of the above structural elements. For external and internal load-bearing walls, depending on the purpose of the house being built and the region where it is being built. For non-load-bearing partitions - at your own discretion. The base (lowest) crown of external walls is usually slightly thicker than the rest of the timber for them. For other structural elements, the thickness of the material is selected based on its operating conditions, as well as the required strength of the structures in which it is used. In a well-drafted project, by the way, the thickness of the timber used for the walls, plinth crown, and other structures of the building should already be indicated.
Now all that remains is pure arithmetic. First, we calculate the perimeter of the house - add up the length of all its external wall structures. For a simple rectangular or square structure, you just need to add its width and length, and multiply the resulting value by 2. Then we calculate the cubic capacity of the base crown:
V C = T C ∙ Z C ∙ I, where
V C – total cubic capacity of basement lumber, m 3;
T Ts – thickness of the base product, m;
Z T – its width (height), m;
I – perimeter of external walls, m.
We calculate the remaining height of the external walls, m:
h = H – Z Ts, where
H – total height, m.
We calculate the area of external wall structures without a plinth, m2:
If the thickness of the material of the base crown is the same as that of the entire wall, then the area of the latter, m 2:
We calculate the area of the internal walls, the thickness of the lumber of which is the same as that of the external ones, m2:
S B1 = H B ∙ L B1, where
H В – height of internal walls, m;
L B1 – total (total) length of internal walls, the material thickness of which is the same as the external ones, m.
We calculate the area of the internal walls, the thickness of which is different, m2:
S B2 = H B ∙ L B2, where
L B2 - total length of internal walls, the thickness of the material is different, m.
We calculate the cubic capacity of the main lumber - for external walls and internal partitions made of the same timber, m 3:
V S = (S H + S B1) ∙ Z S, where
Z S – selected product thickness, m.
We determine the volume of material for internal partitions from other timber, m3:
V B = S B2 ∙ Z V, where
Z B is the selected material thickness for these partitions, m.
We divide the results obtained (V C, V S and V B) by the length of the purchased lumber and its selected width (height). You will get the amount of material in pieces. We round this value to a whole value, and then recalculate V C, V S and V B, as described in the second chapter.
To save on lumber, you should calculate the total areas of window, door and other openings for the corresponding walls. Then their values must be subtracted from S H, S B1 and S B2, respectively. After this, we calculate V S and V B using the same formulas. Then we increase the obtained values by 10–20% - so that there is a reserve just in case.
The cubic capacity of the timber for the remaining elements of the house in which it is used is calculated even easier. Its total length is calculated and multiplied by the thickness and width selected for the material.
| FOUNDATION: | |
| crushed stone backfill: | |
| 10.6 m³ x 1900 RUR/m³ | 20140 rub. |
| concrete mixture B15-20: | |
| 8.1 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³ | 34020 rub. |
| concrete mixture B15-20: | |
| 35.5 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³ | 149100 rub. |
| reinforcing bars Ø10, 12, 16 AIII: | |
| 2.8 t x 37,500 rub./ton | 105,000 rub. |
| foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6: | |
| 53 pcs. x 2360 rub./pcs. | 125080 rub. |
| sand-cement mortar: | |
| 1.4 m³ x 2700 RUR/m³ | 3780 rub. |
| edged boards for formwork: | |
| 1.6 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 10400 rub. |
| roll waterproofing RKK-350: | |
| 4 rolls x 315 RUR/roll (10m²) | 1260 rub. |
| TOTAL: by foundation | 448780 rub. |
| COVERS: | |
| pine beams 150x100: | |
| 4.8 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 33600 rub. |
| plasterboard Knauf (2500x1200x10): | |
| 26 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs. | 6760 rub. |
| steel profile with fasteners: | |
| 220.1 l.m x 51 rub./l.m | 11225 rub. |
| mineral insulation (Rockwool): | |
| 19 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³ | 70300 rub. |
| waterproofing (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 183 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 12444 rub. |
| PE vapor barrier: | |
| 183 m² x 11 RUR/m² | 2013 rub. |
| plywood FC 1525x1525x18: | |
| 1.4 m³ x 19,000 rub./m³ | 26600 rub. |
| subfloor edged boards: | |
| 1.5 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 9750 rub. |
| TOTAL: by floors | 172692 rub. |
| ROOF: | |
| wooden posts (150x50mm): | |
| 3.7 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 25900 rub. |
| antiseptic solution: | |
| 54 l x 75 rub./liter | 4050 rub. |
| waterproofing (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 167 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 11356 rub. |
| corrugated sheet SINS 35–1000: | |
| 159 m² x 347 RUR/m² | 55173 rub. |
| self-tapping roofing 4.8x35: | |
| 6 packs x 550 rub./pack (250 pcs.) | 3300 rub. |
| figure skate (2000mm): | |
| 6 pcs. x 563 rub./pcs. | 3378 rub. |
| edged boards 100x25mm: | |
| 1 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 7000 rub. |
10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:100,100,0,260;195,195,0,260;0,100,100,100;100,195,139,139;195,290,100,100|1127:139,139|1327:75,37;75,109|1527:195,37;195,109|2244:0,33;0,157;290,157|2144:34,0;34,260;129,260;224,260|2417:290,34;290,67|2317:169,0|1927:132,-20
RUB 1,153,698.0
Only for the Moscow region!
Calculation of the cost of work
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Example of a 10x9 m layout for calculation |
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1.
Wooden beams 150x150mm; 2. mineral wool slabs d=100mm; 3. Facing with siding; 4. Air channel d=20-50mm; 7. Wooden-beam ceilings d=150-250mm; 8. Sheets of corrugated sheets; 9. Monolithic slab foundation with block walls h=1.8m; |
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Timber-timber wall finished with siding panels and interlayer thermal insulation
Timber-beam wall
The high popularity of timber and log construction among our fellow citizens is predetermined by the traditional nature, accessibility and healing aura of forest house construction.
The features of a wooden dwelling have been proven to normalize the level of humidity within 45-55%, saturate the premises with fintocides, and also have a pacifying effect on the psyche of people.
It is worth noting that recently there has undoubtedly been a growing interest in molded, in particular, prefabricated laminated timber material, which is characterized, in comparison with non-glued solids, by increased (due to adhesive joints) heat-saving and strength properties, as well as significantly lower shrinkage properties . Without a doubt, the disadvantage that slows down the mass use of laminated veneer lumber is its significant price, which, however, is more than justified by its long service life.
In construction warehouses it is possible to see timber products of standard sizes 140x140, 100x100, 120x120, 150x150, 180x180, 200x150, 150x100, of which the most used size is 150x150 mm, since it has an optimal ratio of structural characteristics and low cost, as well as labor-intensive installation a, expressed by the number of sealed interrow joints.
Standard diagram for assembling a house made of timber:
- First, on the foundation, covered with a waterproof film, along the contours of the walls, a lower row of timber is installed, which is connected by a tenon insert at the corners and at the joining points of the internal partitions.
- In order to join the logs together, dowels are used - round oak or birch dowels with a diameter of 3.0-4.0 cm, which are installed effortlessly into holes made through three rows of beams, every 0.3÷0.4 m. Quite often, dowels are replaced with large nails (25÷30 cm), with the obligatory execution of a groove in the upper log, 30...40 mm deep, into which the nail is placed, to compensate for the linear compression of the lumber during shrinkage.
- So that during the shrinkage process wooden house windows and doors are not deformed, door and light openings are framed on vertical sections“casing” - rack-profiles. In this case, a U-shaped tenon is cut out at the ends of the rows of timber, along which the mentioned timber profiles move, due to the corresponding recess. Above windows and doors, technological gaps are arranged and filled with fiberglass or felt insulation.
- When erecting walls, log rows are laid with a seam seal (flax batting, hemp, jute, flax jute, felt, tow), which after 9-12 months (or when the water content of the log house reaches 12-15%) will have to be caulked again to minimize heat loss through inter-beam joints.
- When choosing interior decoration seasonal deformations of timber-log walls should be taken into account and, when installing inelastic cladding (for example, plasterboard sheets), direct connections with timber wall, by adding suspended buffer frame structures.
Siding cladding
If all-season residence is planned, the log cottage should also be covered with thermal insulation. As a rule, they are attached from the outside, in a vertical position. wooden joists, with dimensions of 100x50 mm, with an interval of 400-600 mm, between which insulation is laid (for example, type: P-175, Ursa, Izomin, P-125, Knauf, Rockwool, PPZH-200, Isover, Isorok), after which hydraulic - and windproof film (Izospan, Yutavek, Tyvek), secured with a counter-lattice, 25÷50 mm thick, onto which a decorative false wall (painted lining, DSP panels or plastic siding) is attached.
Due to the fact that the vinyl siding profile changes its linear dimensions quite significantly when oscillating temperature regime, then you need to use loose fastening of vinyl plates.
Today, manufacturers of plastic siding (for example, brands: Nordside, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Docke, Vytec, Snowbird, Tecos, Ortho, FineBer, Gentek, Mitten, AltaProfil, Holzplast) offer a rich color palette, giving any home the opportunity to look different from the rest.
It is important to consider that PVC siding can remain attractive appearance and last a long time only if the installation instructions are followed punctually.
PVC siding is resistant to chemical, atmospheric, mechanical factors, is not subject to corrosion, and does not support combustion.
In a fire, a polyvinyl chloride profile only melts, igniting when heated to at least 390°C (and wood is already at 230-260°C), soon extinguishing when the source of heating is removed, and the volume of carcinogenic heating products is no more than during smoldering of wooden structures.
Basic technological rules for fastening PVC siding:
- When hanging the next siding strip, snap it onto the locking protrusion with the underlying strip and, without pulling it, secure it with screws;
- In order to disguise the seams, it is better to hang vinyl panels starting from the rear wall of the building, moving to the front wall, and each subsequent siding strip will cover the one already installed in the row being performed, by about 2.5...3 cm, for the same purpose, the resulting joints for adjacent rows must be shifted horizontally.
- The mounted siding plates should move easily left and right; to do this, do not tighten the screws in the mounting slots all the way.
- In places where external communications are carried out (wires, brackets, cables, pipes), as well as at connection points plastic panel and fittings (H-profile, internal corner, external corner, platband, etc.), it is necessary to provide cuttings of about a centimeter to ensure thermal contractions or expansions of PVC siding.
- In order not to interfere with thermal contractions and stretching and, thus, not to provoke point arching PVC material, screw self-tapping screws or nail nails into the siding profile in the center of the finished factory holes.
- Fastening vinyl profiles It is carried out from the bottom up, according to the instructions, first a special starting profile is installed.
Slab reinforced concrete foundation with block prefabricated tape
The slab-side base is installed along the perimeter of the external walls of the building in the form of a solid reinforced concrete slab, on which standard concrete blocks are placed.
The type of foundation under consideration is practiced in low-rise buildings to form the basement level of the house, on unstable lands, subject to a low level groundwater. In waterlogged areas, the side walls of the foundation should be made in the form of a continuous reinforced concrete strip, using waterproof coatings: gluing, coating, impregnation.
Along with this, the prefabricated block system vertical walls foundation, according to the already finished reinforced concrete slab, is optimal for fast construction rates, as well as for the production of a “zero” cycle during the cold period.
Standard execution sequence one slab foundation side parts in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete strip:
- First of all, the earth is dug out to the designed depth.
- Crushed stone, 40/60 in size, 150-200 mm thick, is poured onto the resulting base and compacted thoroughly.
- Sand-cement filling is carried out, 50 mm thick.
- A waterproof film is spread with an extension of 180-200 cm along the edges for lateral waterproofing of the sides of the foundation base.
- To protect the moisture-proofing layer from possible ruptures during welding of the reinforcement structure, a second layer of cement mortar, 40 mm thick, along the perimeter of which formwork is placed at the height of the foundation slab.
- The formed slab is reinforced with two rows of welded iron rods with a diameter of Ø14, type AII, with a pitch of 20x20 cm.
- For slab foundations, only ready-made concrete, grade M300, class B22.5, transported by a concrete mixer, is allowed.
- The duration of concrete hardening (when it is already permissible to install a perimeter from FBS blocks) is at least 4 weeks in warm weather.
- The installation of wall blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, controlling the alignment with the theodolite. The prefabricated blocks are guided by a truck crane onto a “bed” of mortar.
- It is more correct to begin installation by laying beacon blocks at the intersections of axes and in the corners of the building. You should start arranging linear blocks only after checking the position of the reference blocks along the horizon and level.
- Using the last row of FBS blocks, in board formwork, a reinforced mortar screed is produced, 250 mm high.
Beam-wood floor
Floors made of wooden beams are traditionally popular in dacha construction, due to the convenience and cost-effectiveness of their manufacture.
Coniferous wood (for example: spruce, larch, pine) with a moisture content of no more than 14% is traditionally used for joists. It is known that the strongest beam is a block with an aspect ratio of seven to five (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).
When calculating lumber for flooring, it is necessary to be guided by special tables that take into account the dependence of the parameters of the beam structure on the span size and load; or you can start from the simplified rule that the width of the beam should be about 0.042 of the width of the room, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with a laying step of beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 150 kgf/m².
If there is a shortage of lags of sufficient size, it is permissible to use bolted boards, while leaving the overall size unchanged.
Characteristic moments of installing a beam-and-timber floor:
- in wooden log houses, the edges of the beams are hemmed in the shape of a funnel, and then driven into the finished opening of the upper crown to the entire depth of the wall.
- The lag is installed in the following sequence: first the first and last, and then, with control by the bubble level, all the remaining ones. The beams should be placed on the wall structure by at least 15-20 cm.
- To avoid possible damage by rot, which may occur during diffusion of steam in a masonry niche, the ends of the beam boards are sawed off at an angle of about 60°, coated with an antiseptic solution (Biosept, KSD, Teknos, Senezh, Pinotex, Cofadex, Tikkurila, Biofa, Aquatex, Holzplast , Tex, Kartotsid, Dulux) and cover with roofing felt, keeping the end open.
- The beam beams are set back from the wall by at least 5 cm, and the space between the beams and smoke channel must be at least 40 cm.
- Typically, in brick structures, the edges of the beams are located in the masonry openings in which moisture condenses; for this reason, between the end parts of the beams and the masonry, space is left for ventilation, and if the groove depth is significant, another layer of thermal insulation is installed.
The interfloor ceiling is not insulated, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier membrane on top of the thermal protection, and the upper level ceiling is thermally insulated with the laying of a vapor barrier layer at the bottom of the insulation.
Since the problem of structural reliability of wood-beam inter-level floors is mainly removed by obviously increasing the cross-section of the joists and their number, then with fire resistance and noise insulation everything does not look so clear.
One of the options for increasing the sound-proofing and fire-retardant parameters of wood-beam interfloor ceilings consists of the following points:
- From the bottom of the load-bearing logs, at an angle of 90 degrees, with the help of spring brackets, after 0.30-0.40 m, metal profiles are fixed - sheathing, on which gypsum fiber boards are suspended from below.
- A synthetic film is spread over the manufactured lattice structure and stapled to the beams, onto which slab mineral fiber insulation is tightly laid out, for example: Isover, Isorok, Knauf, Ursa, Izomin, Rockwool, with a layer of 5 centimeters, with a rise of vertical surfaces floor beams.
- In upper-level rooms they are screwed onto the beams with self-tapping screws chipboard sheets(16÷25 mm), after this, a high-density basalt fiber sound insulator (2.5...3.0 cm), and again, plywood slabs are laid to prepare the floor.
Corrugated roof
Corrugated sheet material consists of sheets of molded metal of a trapezoidal shape, painted with a zinc layer, which are marked with symbols such as B-45, NS44, NS35, MP-35, H57, H44, H60, NS18, S-21, where the numbers indicate the size of the profile section.
The main benefits of a corrugated roof, in comparison with metal tiles, consist in a minimum of costs and speed of implementation.
To decorate the roof, corrugated sheeting with a corrugation amplitude of 2 cm is used to ensure the required strength and economical use of sheathing material. The working angle to the roof horizon is considered to be at least 1:7.
The roof is installed on load-bearing structure, composed of sheathing preparation and rafter elements.
When constructing private buildings, a 2.3-span structure with inclined trusses and intermediate supporting walls is usually designed.
The supporting ends of the rafter beams are lowered onto a mauerlat with a section of 10x10-15x15 cm; interval between rafter beams Usually it is about 600-900 mm with a section of rafter beams of 50x150-100x150 mm.
Standard installation procedure for profiled metal sheets:
- A roof using corrugated sheets of profiled steel, like every other roofing base made of rolled steel, when arranging a warm attic space, requires the use of an under-roof waterproofing membrane, type: Izospan, Stroizol SD130, Tyvek, Yutavek 115,135, TechnoNIKOL, which covers the inter-rafter heat-insulating material from draining condensate water.
- The waterproof membrane is installed horizontally, from bottom to top, with an inter-tier overlap of 10÷15 cm and a sag between rafter legs about 20 mm, with further gluing of the suture line with adhesive tape.
- To remove unnecessary inter-tier joints, the long side of the profiled sheet is chosen similar to the transverse size of the roof slope, plus 20...30 centimeters, taking into account the overhang.
- The interval between the sheathing bars is determined by the slope roof slope and the thickness of the profile relief: if the profile grade is S-8-S-25, and the slope is steeper than 15 °, then the gap between the battens is 400 mm, and for the NS-35÷NS-44 nomenclature - about 0.7÷1.0 m .
- To avoid lifting of the corrugated sheets during gusts of wind, their fastening should be carried out from the lowest corner of the end cut of the roof, opposite to the prevailing direction of the wind flow.
- The corrugated sheets are fixed to the sheathing boards with galvanized self-tapping screws, 28...40, Ø4.8 mm long, with sealing washers, in the deflection of the wave, and the ridge corners, on the contrary, in the crest of the wave. The fixation on the cornice goes to everyone lower zones profile relief, and the consumption of screws is considered to be 6 ÷ 8 units. per m2 of profiled material.
- The longitudinal overlap of corrugated sheets should be done in one wave, but if the slope of the roof slope is less than 12 degrees - in two corrugated waves.
An online calculator for timber for building a house and other structures will allow you to quickly calculate lumber taking into account the size of the building. In accordance with the results obtained, calculations will be made for dowels, heat-insulating tape and the total cost of the material.
When developing an online calculator, a formula was used that takes into account the parameters of the timber and the dimensions of the building, including the dimensions of the pediment and their number. This allows you to more accurately calculate the material for building a structure of any complexity.
To perform the calculation, you must fill in the appropriate fields in the calculator form. First of all, data on the dimensions of the building is entered - length and width, as well as the height of the walls.
If the building has complex shape, then in the “Length” field additional walls» you must enter the total length of all walls, excluding the building itself. For example, a standard residential building has a rectangular shape, but in the future a non-residential veranda, barn and warehouse space. To fill in the field, it is necessary to measure the total length of all walls of additional extensions.
Preliminary calculations allow you to decide on transport and delivery of material to the site
If during calculations it is necessary to take into account the material for the gables, then you will need to enter data on the quantity, as well as the width and height parameters. When measuring the latter, the maximum values are taken.
Finally, data about the material is entered - its width and height. When filling out the corresponding fields, keep in mind that data on the parameters of the structure are entered in meters, and about the timber - in millimeters.
As a result, the online program will calculate the volume of building material needed, as well as its total weight, which will allow you to select the appropriate transport if you plan to deliver the material to the site yourself. Additionally, the calculation results indicate the number of crowns, the length of the rolled thermal insulation and the number of dowels required to fix the beam.
How to calculate without a calculator
In addition to special calculators and programs, calculation wooden beam can be done at home using simple mathematical formulas. Their knowledge will help when performing preliminary calculations of materials on site when there is no Internet access.
Glued laminated timber is made from pre-prepared lamellas
As an example, we will describe the calculation of a beam measuring 150x150 mm for the construction of a house 6x8m with a wall height of 2.5 m. The logic of the calculation is as follows:
- building perimeter: (6+8)*2=28 m;
- area of the walls of the building: 28 * 2.5 = 70 m2;
- required volume of material: 70 × 0.15 = 10.5 m3.
When performing manual calculations, it should be taken into account that 10% of the material is taken as a buffer. This is necessary in order to protect yourself from shortages of materials during the construction process. If the calculations take into account savings on window and doorways, then this material can be taken as a buffer part without a 10% surcharge.
What kind of timber is used to build a house?
For the construction of residential, non-residential and ancillary structures, two types of timber are used: profiled and glued. Profiled timber – modern material, usually made from pine, spruce or larch wood. The timber canvas is made from solid logs without the use of chemicals or adhesives.
The outer part of the profiled beam can be either flat or semicircular. The upper and lower parts are made using the tongue-and-groove system, which ensures a more accurate fit of the canvas when assembling the building frame.
Glued laminated timber is construction material from various types of wood, the production of which occurs by gluing wooden lamellas. Mostly slats are made of spruce or pine, a little less often - from cedar pine or larch.
Profiled timber is made from solid logs
If we compare both types of timber, the profiled one has greater strength, due to which its cost increases. In addition, profiled timber is more demanding during installation and further processing.
Glued laminated timber has a constant strength coefficient, humidity in the region of 10–20% and a standardized appearance. In fact, laminated veneer lumber is more versatile, but when choosing, it is worth considering that the quality of the product depends entirely on the adhesive compositions used.
Depending on the size of the building, the following options are used for its construction:
- 100×100 mm – usually used for building small summer cottages, bathhouses and sheds;
- 150×150 mm – used for the construction of permanent one-story housing and insulated cottages;
- 200×200 mm – used in the construction of multi-storey residential buildings and country cottages.
When calculating timber for a house using an online calculator, you can also find out its total cost. To do this, just enter the price per cubic meter of the product. When making calculations, you should remember that the data obtained are approximate values with which you can already contact the developer.
If you plan to purchase the material yourself, we also recommend that you carry out the calculation on paper using the formulas above.
