The construction of plasterboard walls quite often becomes the only option for remodeling a room. In addition, the material is used to level walls and implement many architectural compositions.
Walls and partitions made of plasterboard have an undeniable advantage - they are easy to build yourself. This does not require the help of highly qualified specialists or the purchase of expensive equipment. It is enough to know the installation technology and observe some nuances when working with hyposacrite sheets.
Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard walls
Gypsum craton is a lightweight, flexible and easy-to-work material that can easily transform a room and add uniqueness to the interior of a house or apartment. From plasterboard you can make a wall dividing a room, install a partition of an unimaginable shape, or build a complex decorative structure.
A plasterboard wall has the following structure:
Installing plasterboard walls has a number of advantages:
Options for arranging plasterboard walls: photo
The disadvantages of plasterboard walls include:
- with prolonged exposure to humidity, plasterboard sheets may “swell” and lose their original appearance;
- low mechanical strength plasterboard (places for hanging cornices, lighting fixtures, paintings must be reinforced with embedded elements);
- You cannot install heavy objects on a plasterboard wall.
The durability and strength of a plasterboard structure largely depends on the quality building material and its correspondence operational characteristics premises.
Drywall is based on a gypsum core, covered on both sides with multi-layer cardboard. Depending on the characteristics of the constituent elements, plasterboard sheets (GKL) are divided into the following main categories:
The thickness of plasterboard is selected depending on its application:
- for cladding walls will do wall gypsum board thickness - 12.5 mm;
- for the ceiling - ceiling gypsum board 9.5 mm;
- to create shaped structures - arched gypsum board 7.5-8 mm.
Before purchasing, drywall must be inspected for defects - there should be no damaged cardboard or bent core
DIY plasterboard wall installation
The base of a plasterboard wall can be a wooden sheathing or a metal frame. Wooden structures are made from coniferous species wood, and metal ones - from galvanized profiles.
The use of wooden lathing is permissible only in a dry and warm room, in which significant temperature changes are excluded
Let's consider the technology of installing a gypsum plasterboard wall with a metal frame, since this type designs - more reliable and easy to install.
Required materials and tools
The metal profile for creating sheathing for plasterboard walls is available in two sizes:
- W - intended for the construction of a general wall frame (larger profile);
- D - used for arranging a plane with subsequent fastening of drywall.
Each standard size has a guide (U) and support (C) profile.
The guide profile (UD, UW) is U-shaped with smooth walls, the support profile (CD, CW) is also U-shaped, its walls are ribbed.
To create a partition with a width of 50-100 mm, UW (50*40, 75*40 or 100*40 mm) and CW (50*50, 50*75 or 50*100 mm) profiles are used. For walls of greater thickness, with the need to lay communications, install two guides on each side of the CD wall (60*27 mm) and install battens from the UD profile (28*27 mm)
In addition to profiles and sheets of drywall you will need:
To work you will need the following tools: 
- hammer drill with concrete drill (6 mm);
- a drill with reverse or a screwdriver with an RN2 bit and a magnetic attachment;
- metal scissors;
- grinder with iron disc;
- a hacksaw, a plane, a knife for stripping the edges of a sheet or a grater for drywall;
- level (120 cm, 80 cm);
- rule;
- rope, fishing line;
- plumb line
Preparatory work
Before making a plasterboard wall, you need to carry out preparatory work:
Formation of a metal frame
Let's look at the step-by-step creation of a frame for a plasterboard wall up to 100 mm thick:
Fastening drywall sheets
Plasterboard sheets have standard sizes: 1200*2000 mm, 1200*2500 mm, 1200*3000 mm. Most often, ceilings in rooms have a height of 2.75 m or more, so one sheet may not be enough and you will have to add strips of gypsum plasterboard.
You can use a regular construction knife to cut drywall.
Drywall cutting occurs in the following sequence: 
- Place the sheet on a hard, flat surface.
- Mark the cutting line with a pencil.
- Carefully cut the top layer of cardboard with a knife.
- Place the sheet on the edge of the support up to the cut line and break it.
- Turn the sheet over and cut a layer of cardboard on the other side.
- Move the gypsum board to the edge of the support and finally chop it off.
The cut edge of the sheet should have a beveled angle of approximately 22° - this will improve the quality of the finishing of the future wall
The procedure for attaching drywall to the wall:
Laying wiring, installing switches and sockets
If there is a need to run electrical or telephone wires in the wall, this must be done before covering the second side of the wall with plasterboard.
To conduct wires in vertical profiles, holes with a diameter of 35 mm are made at the required height. Electrical wiring must be placed in corrugated pipes, and then lead it into the wall.
Holes for installing sockets and switches must be provided in advance in the plasterboard sheets.
The final stage of wall construction
It is advisable to soundproof plasterboard walls. For this purpose, rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 600 or 1200 mm (depending on the width of the wall) is suitable. The cotton wool must be placed tightly between vertical profiles, there is no need to additionally secure the material.
After communications and soundproofing of the wall, the structure can be sheathed with plasterboard on the second side.
Processing the finished gypsum board wall:
- Glue the joints between the sheets with sickle mesh.
- Treat the wall with starting putty.
- Treat the wall with finishing putty, leveling all screw fastening points.
- Rub the putty layer with an abrasive mesh.
- Now you can apply any finish to the wall - paint, wallpaper or lay ceramic tiles.
Installation of a plasterboard wall: video
Leveling a wall with plasterboard using a frameless method
Drywall is very often used to level walls. In this case, two main methods are used:
- GKL is attached to the lathing (the technology is similar to the construction of plasterboard walls);
- The gypsum board is glued directly to the wall (the method is suitable for more or less even walls).
Let's consider the second option - frameless finishing method plasterboard walls. In this case, installation of drywall on the wall is done using special Perlfix glue.
If the wall will be loaded with additional structures (lamps, shelves, paintings), then the glue must be applied over the entire area of the sheet
As you can see, working with drywall does not pose any particular difficulties, and even construction beginners can build a partition from gypsum plasterboard or level a wall.
Are you planning to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material, allowing you to bring into reality the most non-trivial design idea. In order for it not to work out, as in the immortal statement of Viktor Chernomyrdin - “We wanted the best, but it turned out as always” - it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.
For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties understanding the material.
Preparing the premises
- remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
- if it is impossible to carry out the first step, cover the furniture with film to protect it from construction debris, adhesive composition and dust;
- clean the ceiling of everything unnecessary: dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.
Tool preparation
How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that later you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and poorly organized lighting? That's right, the key to successful installation is proper markings and the necessary tools at hand.
First, we list everything you need to properly mark out the room:
- roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- painting cord.
Now let’s touch on the mandatory set of directly necessary construction tools:
- hacksaw;
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- scissors.
As you can see, you don’t need anything out of the ordinary to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any construction supermarket.
The only thing that can be added to this list, modest in every sense, is protective glasses. Still, some stages of our step by step instructions include operations that could potentially harm your eyes.
Compliance with safety regulations- this is the basis for performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.
Preparation of material
In accordance with how you see your future gypsum board ceiling, prepare plasterboard sheets the right size. Calculating the total area of the room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and the exact size of the pieces of material directly depends on the format of the plasterboard structure that you want to see in your room.
You will also need:
- ceiling guide profiles UD;
- ceiling main profiles CD;
- direct universal hangers or any others in accordance with the layout;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels
It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are inserted into them longitudinally with the required step according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.
Cost table
In order for you to have a rough idea of future expenses and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that shows the average current prices for the materials used for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard.
| Name | Vacation unit | Price |
| self-tapping screws | packaging (200 pcs.) | from 120 rubles |
| gypsum board sheets | sheet(3 m2) | from 250 rubles |
| UD profile | PC. | from 40 rubles |
| CD profile | PC. | from 45 rubles |
| ceiling hangers | PC. | from 4 rubles |
| dowels | packaging (200 pcs.) | from 125 rubles |
Marking
A very simple, but quite important step, the correct execution of which determines the final result:
- find the bottom corner point on a concrete ceiling base;
- we make the necessary indentation, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final structure. Remember that there must be a certain margin of a few centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rough and unattractive;
- We put a mark using a level; if you have a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of evenly transferring this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the painting cord we mentioned;
- We connect all the marks using this cord, achieving a perfectly straight line.
The final marking touch is to apply the so-called mesh, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared hangers. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.
This is what you should end up with.
If you see approximately the same thing on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first stage of our step-by-step instructions.
Frame
If the markings are done correctly, then constructing the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:
- start from the perimeter, securing the prepared UD wall profile at a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
- proceed to fixing the hangers - use dowels for this, and again the prepared hangers should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines marked on concrete base mesh ceiling (see previous paragraph);
- prepare mortgages from bars for the chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to the places where you plan to install spots and other types of lighting fixtures;
- insert the longitudinal CD profile into the grooves of the wall one and secure it with self-tapping screws. You should have them on hand, right?
If you didn’t know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the suggested step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been safely completed. The creation of the frame is crowned by the installation of what is called battens , on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached.
Sheathing with plasterboard
Probably the most basic and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple of extra hands.
In order to speed up or even simplify finishing the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands, use the help of your friends to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to secure sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws alone.
- start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
- installation of the last fragment is carried out by cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
- lay the fragments in a joint, eliminating the appearance of any gaps or irregularities. If we are talking about the last sheet, then experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.
Finishing
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands logically approached the post-processing of an already assembled surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:
- puttying joints and gaps;
- surface primer;
- decorative finishing.
The choice of implementation of the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to make a plasterboard ceiling more expressive, they use beautiful wallpaper, applying decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base water-based paint. When choosing one solution or another, make allowances for the functional purpose of the room.
It goes without saying that for a kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity prevails and temperature changes are frequent, it is best to choose the most practical look finishing - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.
Conclusion
Installation of drywall on walls, carried out using frame or frameless technology, allows you to level the surface to perfect condition, while simultaneously insulating it with a layer of insulating material.
Working with sheets of drywall is simple and does not require much experience, which is confirmed by the proposed video plot.
The finished wall plane can be easily improved by using ceramic tiles, simple painting or wallpapering.
How to make a structure out of moisture-resistant and regular plasterboard? Choose the type of material that will fully correspond to the purpose of the room.
Planning to radically change the design of the bedrooms, living room or hallway, purchase regular sheets drywall.
Their use makes it possible not only to level the walls, but also to organize shaped elements for them, to arrange original niches and shelves with lighting.
If the renovation is carried out in the bathroom, kitchen or other room with constantly high humidity, purchase wall or ceiling sheets that are resistant to moisture.
Additional treatment of products with a water-repellent primer allows you to increase the degree of vapor permeability of the walls yourself.
We invite you to watch video material on this topic.
In order for the drywall to fit perfectly on the walls during operation and hide all defects, as shown in our video material, it is necessary to pay attention to another important fact - mounting the frame.
The technology for constructing such a structure comes down to marking the plane of the walls and subsequent installation of wooden or metal products on them.
Previously, wall coverings with plasterboard were carried out on a wooden frame; the affordable cost of wooden beams spoke for itself.
But since wood behaves unpredictably if the humidity in the room changes, over time, preference began to be given to a galvanized profile when installing sheathing under the cladding.
But it makes sense to build wooden structure with your own hands for installing drywall, if you have dry bars in stock.
You should not rely on wood that is on sale; by and large, such wood is either freshly sawn or has high degree humidity.
A frame mounted from such materials becomes deformed over time due to drying of the wood.
In any case, further information and the proposed video materials will be useful to you.
Here we will consider in detail how to install a frame, both from wooden beams and from metal profile, followed by laying insulation and installing drywall.
Making lathing from wooden beams
A frame made of timber can be attached to both wooden and concrete walls. In the first case, the elements are fixed using nails or self-tapping screws, in the second - using dowels.
Before starting work, prepare the foundation with your own hands. The walls of the house are treated with an antiseptic primer.
Having a clean and well-dried surface in front of them, they proceed to installing the timber sheathing.
The work will involve:
- fasteners;
- hacksaw or circular saw;
- building level;
- roulette;
- wooden bars.
Rules for installing wooden sheathing:
- The technology for arranging a wooden frame for drywall begins with marking the working area and installing the strapping;
- Using a tape measure, mark the area for fixing the guide rails along the ceiling, along the floor, along the walls and at the corners of the walls with an indentation of 200 mm;
- Using a regular hacksaw, adjust the wooden beams to the desired size, then fasten them with self-tapping screws in the marked places;
- The correct location of the vertical guide elements is controlled using a level;
- First of all, they attach the bars to the ceiling, then move on to arranging the piping below. After making sure correct location beams, fix vertical guides on the walls;
- On vertical elements the lathing will bear the main load of the structure, so it is very important to secure them well;
- The distance between subsequent vertical posts should not exceed 600 mm. They can be secured using screws or a metal corner.
If there are openings in the wall between the vertical posts, install the cross bars yourself.
If there is electrical wiring, the wires are placed in a corrugated protective sheath.
Installation of a metal profile lathing frame
The installation of a sheathing frame made of a metal profile under plasterboard begins, as in the first case, by marking the working plane. First, check the walls using a building level for height differences.
Existing deviations are recorded and eliminated with your own hands during marking work. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arrangement in more detail metal frame can be found in the video provided.
Technology for installing metal profiles on walls:
- The galvanized guide profile is mounted along the marked marking lines. For each wall you will need two profiles: one is mounted on the wall under the ceiling with an indentation of 800-100 mm, the second - on the floor along the wall;
- If it is necessary to equalize the horizontal difference, a rigid element with the required thickness is placed under the profile bar;
- The guide profile under the ceiling is placed with the groove down. A profile fixed to the floor, with the groove up, for the possibility of installing rack elements in them;
- Do-it-yourself vertical guide elements of the metal frame are fixed at the corners to the wall with an indentation of 400 mm; dowels or self-tapping screws are used in the work;
- For subsequent installation of the rack profile, vertical lines are drawn along the wall, and hangers are mounted along them in increments of 400-500 mm, using them future design will receive its rigidity;
- The edges of the rack profile are inserted into the grooves of the guide elements from above and below, everything is secured with self-tapping screws;
- At the same time, it is attached to the suspensions. The strict vertical installation of rack profiles is controlled by a level.
Thermal insulation of walls and installation of plasterboard on the sheathing
Regardless of the material from which the sheathing was made, before starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, insulation and soundproofing work is carried out.
In this case, the thickness of the materials used to insulate the walls will depend on the width of the internal ribs of the structure.
Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene boards are most often used as a sound and heat insulating layer under drywall.
Selected segments thermal insulation material laid between the rack elements of the sheathing, thus filling the voids that could be under the sheathing.
They build a vapor barrier membrane on top of the insulating material with their own hands. The film at the joints is glued with a special tape.
The vapor-tight material is attached to the wooden beams of the frame using a construction stapler.
You can learn more about the method of insulating walls under plasterboard. next video material.
Technology for covering the frame with plasterboard sheets:
- The required number of sheets of the product is calculated based on the total working area of the walls. At the same time, they take another 10-20% of the material as a reserve - the consumption of products will depend on the experience of the installer;
- The sheets of the required sizes are adjusted along pre-marked cut lines. The drywall is fixed to the sheathing in such a way that the seams of the sheets are located along the axis of the rack profile, and one profile strip is in the middle behind the sheet.
Before installing plasterboard sheets onto the sheathing yourself, it is recommended to transfer the plan for their location onto paper.
This will allow you to pre-cut the sheets into the necessary segments and quickly navigate the place of their installation.
Frameless plasterboard wall covering
The technology of frameless wall covering with plasterboard involves fastening the sheets with glue.
As a rule, the installation of lathing reduces the area of the room, so its use is not always appropriate.
The technology of installing drywall with glue is carried out with minimal loss of area and does not require much time.
Depending on characteristics work surface, can be applied various techniques drywall installations with glue.
For example, for a load-bearing base with a plane difference of up to 20 mm, when facing walls with plasterboard, special Perflix glue is used.
Glue is applied to the products in small slides; the sheets are pressed against the wall with your own hands, which allows the surface to be leveled.
If the unevenness of the base is about 50 mm, then the gluing of plasterboard sheets is carried out in two stages. First, narrow strips of drywall are placed on the glue.
The main sheets are mounted on top of them using a special gypsum-based putty.
The above steps take place in the following order:
- The base is prepared and the technique for installing drywall with glue is selected. The walls are cleaned of old peeling finish, after which markings are made along the clean and free wall. The work uses a plumb line and a building level;
- Before attaching the drywall with glue, the working plane is treated with a primer, which is selected depending on the characteristics of the wall;
- After the wall has dried, they proceed to cutting the material and subsequent installation work.
Glue is poured onto the prepared sheet of drywall from its working side with a distance between slides of 20-30 cm. Then the sheet of drywall is applied to the wall, leveled horizontally and vertically, after which the material is compacted using a rubber mallet.
The video story will complement the topic of frameless wall covering with plasterboard.
Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional zones with your own hands, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.
Anatomy of a plasterboard structure
Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these designs, as a rule, have standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.
The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets
Application area
Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms various layouts and appointments. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity And special requirements to fire safety.
Advantages
Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:
- Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR differs perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
- Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
- Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
- Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, piles of construction waste and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is consumed.
Flaws
We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:
- The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
- Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
- Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.
Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.
Preparing for work
That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.
Tool
To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:
- Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
- Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
- A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
- Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
- Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.
To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool
Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.
Materials
At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:
- There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. Is load-bearing element sheathings.
- Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
- Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.
1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall
When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:
- Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures imply the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
- Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
- Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area, basalt wool, which retains heat well, will be useful.
In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:
- Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
- Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
- Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
- Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
- Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.
The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners
Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.
Measurements + consumables calculation table
To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.
- Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location of the door and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
- Rack profile (CW). Considering the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), vertical racks The frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
- Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
- Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile; the same design solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
- Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
- Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm
Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.
Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:
- guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
- guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
- rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
- plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.
The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.
Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.
| Position | Name | Unit measurements | Quantity per sq. m |
| 1 | KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO) | sq. m | 2,0 |
| 2 | KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40) | linear m | 0,7 |
| 3 | KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50) | linear m | 2,0 |
| 4 | Screw TN 25 | PC. | 29 |
| 5 | Putty KNAUF-Fugen | kg | 0,6 |
| 6 | Reinforcing tape | linear m | 1,5 |
| 7 | Dowel K 6/35 | PC. | 1,6 |
| 8 | Sealing tape | linear m | 1,2 |
| 9 | Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund | l | 0,2 |
| 10 | Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF | sq. m | 1,0 |
| 11 | KNAUF-profile PU | PC. | * |
* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.
Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.
How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions
So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.
Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.
Layout and marking
Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:
Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.
Installation of sheathing
Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:
- Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape protects the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
- We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
- We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
- Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
- Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
- We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
- Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these sections inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.
You can insert inside the top beam of the opening wooden beam, further strengthening the structure
- We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
- If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
- Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.
At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.
Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation
In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.
Plates from mineral wool reliably retain heat and also isolate the room from extraneous noise
Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.
Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:
- Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
- We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
- Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
- Having closed one side of the frame, we lay it inside insulating material, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts at random.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
- We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
- We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.
Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for fastening the extensions or parts custom size you'll have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.
Final chords
Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.
The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:
Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be covered with wallpaper, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.
Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door
Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in your home. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.
