Growing coniferous seedlings. Coniferous plants in the garden

Most land owners prefer to plant coniferous trees on it. And there is no secret in this. Because this type of tree is considered a truly wonderful decoration for any site, be it a garden or. Throughout the year they delight their owners forever. green. It is coniferous trees that landscape designers increasingly use in their work. The main advantage of these plants is that they are least susceptible to all kinds of diseases and attacks by various pests, and they are also very easy to care for. But still, when planting, you need to adhere to certain recommendations and follow the rules regarding the choice of location and fertilizing the land for conifers. Next, we will give you some tips on how to properly plant coniferous trees in the spring.

This article will help you learn about how to plant coniferous trees. Believe me, there are some peculiarities here too. To begin the process of planting coniferous trees, you first need to decide on a location. Mostly this type plants behave well in shady areas, with sufficiently moist soil. A sunny place is suitable only for pine or larch. And spruce, yew and Canadian hemlock prefer shade.

Typical mistakes when growing coniferous trees

When the question arises, how to plant coniferous trees, most people will answer yes very simply. I dug a hole, planted a seedling there and that’s it, covered it with earth. Let's say right away that this is not true. And if you plant a coniferous tree in this way, then the tree dies for some time. And all because the disembarkation process was disrupted. And there is a very unique fact: these plants keep excellent appearance and under difficult living conditions. And in order for the plants to take root well, you need to prepare the ground for planting. The ideal place would be where the soil has a pH of 5 - 6.5. But in addition to everything else, the land should be constantly improved. Since you will have to pay a lot of money for seedlings, and so that this money, as they say, does not go down the drain, spend the money on purchasing high-quality fertilizer. A significant function in proper care is assigned to timely watering and fertilization in the spring. Since coniferous trees are capable of becoming depleted and dying in a short period of time.

Soil improvement process

Fertilizer process

Planting a coniferous tree is only one second part of the whole work. It is necessary to properly fertilize the plants and also water them well. Fertilizers in the form of granules are usually sprinkled around the circumference of the trunk and deepened into the ground. There is another way. In this case, take fertilizer that dissolves and dilute it (ideal consistency 0.5-1%). And before fertilizing, the soil is watered with it.

The very first fertilizer is done at the end of April, beginning of May, and the subsequent one in late June, beginning of July. But fertilizers are used as slurry and fresh manure We do not recommend you use it.

The process of cutting and crown formation

Coniferous trees need to be trimmed regularly to ensure they branch well, limit excessive growth, and also to give them the appropriate shape. Carrying out this process also costs certain time. For example, thuja branches are cut in the last days of May or in the beginning of June. In August, if necessary, the haircut can be repeated. But the cutting of yew trees begins in the period limited to April - June.

Finally

We told you about all the intricacies of planting coniferous trees. If you do everything correctly, take into account all our recommendations for planting, watering, fertilizing, you will be able to grow very beautiful plants that will please your eyes and attract the attention of your neighbors. Please also take into account the issue of preventing pest control; young seedlings are mainly susceptible to them.

Well, in conclusion of this article, look at what coniferous trees look like on summer cottage. We have collected for you best photos.

Coniferous trees in landscape design, photo

Reproduction and rooting of coniferous plants by cuttings depends on the species and genus of the plant. For example, varieties such as thujas, junipers, yews, and cypresses get along well. Fir trees take root much worse, as well. If we talk about pine and larch trees, strengthening them with the help of cuttings is incredibly difficult; rarely can anyone achieve even minimal results. It is important to choose the cuttings themselves wisely. It is best to take green young shoots, making sure that the cutting is straight and dense plant, healthy.

If you choose a bad shrub, your new “seedling” will be exactly the same. It is also not advisable to take side shoots, since the future plant may begin to bend during growth, which means it will not have a beautiful, even shape. And it won’t even lead to a positive result. It should be remembered that there are several rules for planting cuttings that you should also be aware of. By following them, you will do your job perfectly.

How to take cuttings of coniferous plants at home?

If you want to achieve the effect, take cuttings of juniper, thuja or cypress. From the main branch or from smooth side shoots we tear off a cutting with a “heel” (a piece of wood with bark). If there are pine needles, they must be cut off with a sharply sharpened knife, and the “heel” itself should not be too long. After you have prepared 5-7 cuttings, collect them in a bouquet, carefully tie them up so as not to fall apart, and soak them for 12 hours in a solution such as Epin.

To achieve maximum effect, you need to take a few drops per 100 ml of water. When the cuttings have spent the required time in the solution, it is necessary to dust them in a root formation stimulator. It is considered the most practical and reliable Kornevin. After this, we fill the container for planting with sand, watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, which will help rid it of possible bacteria and pests. We make holes in the sand using wooden pegs - they need to be installed at an angle of 45-50 degrees.

The cuttings should be planted at a distance of about 5 cm from each other, we squeeze them with sand so that there are no holes or voids, and then cover the container plastic bag or a transparent cap. You need to keep such a box with young seedlings in a dark place, alternately moistening and ventilating it. Literally in a year the plant will become stronger, which means it can already be planted in the ground.

Growing conifers from cuttings in the ground

When preparing beds for planting, you need to remember that the ground level should be 15 cm lower from the edges of the formwork. This is necessary to maintain normal humidity and temperature for the development and growth of cuttings. We also carefully break off a small shoot from the “parent”, which forms the “heel”. With a sharp knife cut off the tip of the wood on it. During this work, a wound is created that stimulates root formation of cuttings in the future.. That is why it needs to be moistened with a growth regulator (1% solution of indolylbutyric acid).

At the bottom, remove all the leaves using a knife. But it is undesirable to touch the growth point at the very top. Next we prepare a place for planting seedlings. To do this, take a wooden peg and stick it into the ground to a depth of 3 cm. We strongly compact the ground near the stem. The following cuttings should be planted at a distance of about five centimeters. We water the bed itself with a fungicide solution and cover it with film. Our plant should develop in this way for about one year, and in winter, in order to avoid freezing, it must be covered with mats or wooden shields.

Propagation of coniferous plants by cuttings and subsequent care

IN summer time years, the seedlings, while under the film, are subject to solar “attack”, which can lead to burns on the plant. For protection, you can use a lime coating solution or a net stretched over small bushes. Don’t forget to also water the beds, making sure that the soil doesn’t dry out. To ensure successful propagation, you can transplant the seedlings either into pots or directly into the ground in a designated place in the garden.

You can plant them in a greenhouse, but you need to constantly ventilate it, maintaining normal level humidity.

Summer residents use a watering can or sprayers to wet the cuttings. It is necessary to remove the film or other covering at the moment when growth begins to appear on the cuttings. However, this does not mean that roots can appear; often seedlings begin to grow only when callus forms on the cuttings. After this we also carry out frequent spraying. Otherwise, the plant will simply burn under the sun. The main thing is to ensure that your cuttings are not brittle and weak; it is important to root them in the ground - only then will they be able to develop normally.

Now you have become familiar with how to propagate conifers by cuttings, which means you can start working now. It is only important to find powerful cuttings from healthy plant, then their development will be rapid, and the conifers themselves will have lush crown and powerful root system.

To this question, many will answer: “Dig a hole, lower the plant into it, and cover it with earth.” As a result of using such methods, after some time the conifers will begin to get sick and die, and the entire blame will fall on the shoulders of the producers of planting material, although the cause of the error was incorrect planting.

A special feature of coniferous plants is their ability long time do without moisture and nutrients, while maintaining its original appearance. Therefore, the result of improper planting of conifers can be noticed only after 3–6 months during autumn planting, and after 1–2 months during spring planting.

The successful growth and development of coniferous crops directly depends on the timing of planting and the age of the plant; it is also very important to take into account species and even varietal preferences for growth conditions. There are a number of rules for planting coniferous plants, which will be discussed in our article.

Plants are living organisms, they eat and breathe, grow and reproduce, so all traumatic operations must be performed under anesthesia, including transplantation, as a result of which about 30% of the suction roots are damaged. The dormant period is the optimal time for planting.

Spring planting of conifers

Most conifer planting work is done in the spring. Spring planting carry out before the active growth of the above-ground mass begins, namely, as soon as the ground has thawed and the dirt has let us into the garden, we immediately begin planting conifers. Young roots begin to grow at soil temperatures of + 3 °C.

Under no circumstances should conifers be replanted during the period of bud growth.

Autumn planting of conifers

Because the climatic conditions V different regions Russia is very different; this process of conifers occurs at different times. Preparing the plant for hibernation- it's complicated chemical process, which always starts after the first subzero temperatures. During this period, the plant organism adjusts chemical composition cells – reduces water content and increases carbohydrate content. This cellular preparation lasts 1–3 weeks. It is very important not to injure the plants during this period and let them sleep peacefully. After we have put our plants under anesthesia, we can safely perform the transplant operation. In different climatic zones this process can occur in October, November or even December. In some conifers, the process of hibernation is visually determined by a change in the color of the needles.

There is information that autumn planting It is advisable to produce conifers in August-September, during the period of active growth of suction roots. In this case, the success of planting is ensured by the rapid renewal of the root system.

Summer planting of conifers

In summer, coniferous trees can only be planted planting material with a closed root system (container culture), in evening hours, preferably during the rainy season. The younger the age of the plant used for summer planting, the more successful the result will be.

Planting large trees

Large coniferous trees are planted only in January and February. The burlap is removed, but the metal mesh that holds the lump is not removed. For large trees, it is necessary to sprinkle the crown and fertilize it with epin.

Agricultural technology for planting conifers

First of all, we dig a planting hole, prepare a solution for watering, and only then take our conifer out of a container or damp cloth and immediately plant it, since root hairs live in the open air for only a few minutes, and they play a very important role in the survival process.

To pull the plant out of the container without damaging the lump, you must first water it well.

The size of the pit should exceed the size of the lump or container by 1.5–2 times, both in width and depth. We pour a mound of prepared substrate at the bottom of the hole, place the seedling on the mound and lovingly spread the roots evenly over the mound. When planting a container plant, carefully without destroying the earthen ball, immerse it in the planting hole. As the soil is added, we compact it.

When planting a plant, you need to ensure that the root collar (the junction of the trunk with the root system) is at the level of the soil surface, and the root is not exposed, which often occurs due to soil subsidence. Deepening of the root collar leads to the death of the plant.

After planting, it is necessary to thoroughly water the planting area and after it seeps in, add a little soil mixture, which will also act as mulch. Excellent results survival rate can be obtained as a result of using various light root formation stimulants during initial irrigation.

To maintain vertical positions, when planting large specimens, it is necessary to secure the plants using a stretcher; standard forms are secured by installing a stake.

Soil conditions for conifers

All coniferous plants prefer well-drained soils and do not tolerate stagnant water. In order to determine the need for a drainage system, it is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water into the prepared planting hole and monitor how quickly it seeps through. If water remains in the hole for a long time, then we cannot do without drainage.

Soil composition for various types conifers are quite different. On too rich soils, conifers often experience cracking of the bark, which entails a decrease in winter hardiness, and a loss of varietal qualities, which in turn reduces decorativeness. Of all the conifers, thuja is the most demanding on soil richness, but at the same time, when planting its dwarf forms in the soil mixture, it is better to add a little sand. Spruce, fir and yew also prefer fertile loams. Pine and juniper feel better on light sandy loam soils.

To plant a pine tree, we prepare a planting hole measuring 60x60x60cm. The main rule for successful planting of a pine tree is the integrity and horizontal position of the tap root. Therefore, it is very important to place the axial root strictly horizontally in the planting hole, otherwise the plant will suffer and die as a result. For planting pine trees, it is better to use 1 seedlings with an open root system or container plants.

Substrate for planting pine: sand, peat, turf soil (2:1:1).

Substrate for planting spruce: turf, leaf soil, peat, sand (2:2:1:1).

Substrate for planting larch: leaf soil, peat, sand (3:2:1).

Substrate for planting juniper: peat, sand, turf soil (2:1:1).

Substrate for planting fir: leaf soil, clay, peat, sand (3:2: 1:1).

Substrate for planting thuja: turf or leaf soil, peat, sand (2:1:1).

Natalya Vysotskaya, landscape designer, Ph.D. -X. sciences

Recommendations for planting coniferous trees are a topical topic for many summer residents, because now coniferous plants can be found in many summer cottages, whereas previously they were only exotic. But, as difficult as it may be to guess, their planting and replanting is accompanied by many requirements that must be met in order for the conifer to take root and not die.

What mistakes can there be when planting conifers?

The most common mistakes made when planting such plants are:

Damage to an earthen ball at the root of a coniferous crop.
Disproportionality landing pit.
Filling the root collar with soil mixture.
Unaccounted for features of a particular variety.

All these mistakes lead to the death of the coniferous plant. To avoid this, the planting process should be carried out taking these aspects into account.

Damage to an earthen clod on the root of a coniferous crop

When planting, it is necessary that the earthen lump does not shake, fly around, or crumble. That is, it is important not to “lose” it. Otherwise, the roots may quickly dry out and then die. And the conifer will definitely not survive! To preserve the coma - no matter whether the tree is transplanted from soil or a container - you should first water the plant well the day before. Thus, the soil at the root will be crumpled.

After the plant is dug up or removed from the container, the root and lump must be quickly placed in burlap (or something similar) and tied securely. When fixing, twine, ropes, wire, etc. are used.

The release of the root from the packaging occurs only after the coniferous plant is placed in the prepared hole! If this is done before placing it in the pit, the lump may crumble. Many gardeners even recommend leaving packaging material at the root - burlap, one way or another, will rot in the ground. The root should only be freed from hard fixing materials (metal, synthetic cords).

Disproportionality of the landing pit

The second common mistake is the size of the planting hole not matching the plant being planted. The planting hole should be larger than the earthen ball of bushes, both from the sides and in height. When placing a plant in a hole, there should be about 5 cm between its walls and the root ball. If this is not observed, the plant will be cramped, the roots will be pinched, and it may die.

Filling the free space occurs after installing the shrub in the hole with specially prepared soil suitable for the specific species of coniferous plant. Of course, you can fill the hole with soil that was removed from it before planting, but in this case the crop will take root much worse.

Backfilling the root collar with soil mixture

When replanting a coniferous plant, it is important not to cover its root neck with soil. If this does happen, then it must be freed from the soil by removing the excess.

But there are cases when cervical closure is inevitable, in which case forced air drainage is performed. Small trenches are dug near the coniferous crop and lined with pebbles. These trenches communicate with the outside space through tubes through which water freely enters the root system. required air.

Unaccounted for features of a certain variety

This is perhaps the most important mistake - to ignore the conditions necessary for good growth and development of conifers. Each breed requires different individual planting features, which would be best to create if possible. Therefore, we will separately dwell on the requirements for planting some breeds.

Spruce. For these conifers, you should choose a shady place, with no nearby groundwater. Soil composition for the planting pit: turf (2 parts), peat (1 part), sand (1 part) and leaf soil (2 parts). The depth of the hole for spruce reaches 50-70 cm. Also, a drainage system should be installed for them, the layer of which should not be less than 15 cm. Compaction of the soil is strictly prohibited.
Cypress. The choice of planting site largely depends on the color of the plant. For variegated colors it is better to choose the sunny side, and for the rest - a dark place. Soil composition for filling the planting hole: humus, sand, leaf soil, peat (in the ratio 3-2-2-1). The depth of the hole for planting cypress trees should be at least 70 cm, and sometimes even deeper. They also arrange drainage using sand, pebbles, and brick fragments.
Juniper. As for this type of conifer, they need to be planted on open spaces, with access to the sun. The soil for backfilling is composed of peat, sand and turf. Their number may vary, depending on the specific variety. For example, the Siberian variety prefers a predominance of sand, while the Virginia variety loves clay soils. The structure of the drainage system and the depth of the hole are the same as for spruce.
Fir. This conifer grows well only in shaded areas. The preferred age of the plant when transplanting is from 5 to 10 years. For the soil, use a mixture: leaf soil (can be humus) - 3 parts, clay 2 parts, sand mixed with peat (1 part each). It is noteworthy that fir is not as demanding on drainage as others, but if the soils where it is planted are heavy, then it is better to arrange it with a depth of 20 cm. The planting hole for the tree is required to be small - about half a meter.
Larch. Prefers open places with good sun access. The only exception is the Japanese variety, which loves semi-shaded areas. They interfere with the soil leaf soil(3 parts) with peat (2 parts) and sand (1 part). A root drainage system is installed only on heavy soils. The hole is the same as that of the spruce. When transplanting larch, it is important to observe the timing - planting must be done in the spring, before the buds begin to bloom. As for age, it is preferable to do this when the tree reaches 5 years old.
Pines. Planted in open areas. To fill the planting hole, turf soil is used, to which sand or clay is added. The hole itself is dug to a depth of 1 meter, and drainage is provided (recommended for heavy soils). The best seedlings pine trees are not yet 5 years old.
Thuja. Thuja loves both partial shade and sun. Soil mixture: leaf/turf soil (2 parts), sand and peat (1 part each). Drainage system always arranged - its height should be 20 cm.
Yew. This conifer prefers only darkened planting sites. Composition of the soil for backfilling: turf (3 parts), sand (2 parts), peat (2 parts). The depth of the pit is 60-70 cm, drainage is required.

Cozy composition of coniferous plants: planting scheme with names of species

You can combine conifers with shrubs, perennials and grasses; here is a small scheme for planting conifers:

Hosta fortunei – Hosta fortunei;
Black pine – Pinus mugo ‘Mops’;
Cossack juniper - Juniperus sabina ‘Variegata’;
Blue molinia – Molinia coerulea;
Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Hoseri’;
Norway spruce – Picea abies;
Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Globosa’;
Western thuja - Thuja occidentalis ‘Brabant’;
Western thuja – Thuja occidentalis ‘Golden Globe’;
Scaly juniper - Juniperus sguamata ‘Blue Star’.

In any case, after the coniferous plant is planted, the soil is mulched. This is what will protect it from drying out and weeds. For mulch they use, among other things, pine needles, it is a good conductor of oxygen to the roots. Also, after some time, a mycelium appears in it, which contributes to the comfortable growth of coniferous plants. Mulching must be done every spring, and if the soils are dry, then every autumn. Here, in fact, are all the main recommendations for planting coniferous trees.

Planting coniferous trees on a summer cottage creates a picturesque landscape that preserves its decorative properties all year round. If in summer these plants play mainly the role of a background for flower beds and other elements garden design, then in winter their bright greenery comes to the fore.

A variety of species, ranging in size from mighty giants to miniature pillows barely reaching 15 cm in height; needles of all shades of green, as well as silver, white, blue, lemon yellow and ocher-golden make planting coniferous trees and shrubs an indispensable tool in the landscape design of a garden plot.

The choice in favor of these plants for creating compositions and mini-gardens, for use in rock gardens and rockeries, is also due to the ease of caring for them. When selecting an assortment for planting, it is enough to avoid species that are not winter-hardy, prone to fading and damping off, and require shelter. Care comes down to timely weeding and watering. Occasionally it will be necessary to add a mulch layer, and even less often - fertilizing. Coniferous trees (shrubs) do not like fresh organic matter in the soil and do not need frequent application mineral fertilizers, most often, they are content with the norm introduced into the hole during planting.

Gardeners are accustomed to the possibility of purchasing garden centers and nurseries of plants with a closed root system. By purchasing such material, you don’t have to worry about planting time and survival rate. Seedlings in modern domestic and foreign nurseries are grown using the method of gradual transfer from a smaller container to a larger one, forming a compact root system in a special light substrate, saturated with mineral nutrition and growth stimulants. Pots with coniferous plants range from 0.5 l to 100 l. Accordingly, you can choose from a two- to three-year-old inexpensive seedling to a mature tree up to 2.5 m tall.

To solve various problems landscape design Nurseries always have a wide selection of coniferous trees and shrubs:

Mixed compositions, rockeries and alpine slides

Mountain pine (Mugus, Pumilio, Gnome, Pug, Canadian, etc.),
common spruce (Nidiformis, Echiniformis),
prickly spruce (Glauca globosa),
thuja occidentalis (Nana-globoza, aurea and rekuva, Danica, Yellow ribbon, etc.),
juniper (Repanda, Kazatsky, Old Gold, Mint Julep, Hagis).

Single landings

Prickly spruce (blue, green, varieties Hoopsie, Fat Albert, etc.),
Serbian spruce,
cedar pine,
Scots pine Fastigiata,
thuja occidentalis (Smaragd, Sunkist),
juniper (Hibernica, Blue Arrow).

Hedges

Norway spruce (species, radically trimmed),
Thuja occidentalis (species form, variety Brabant),
yew berry (only in the southern regions).

Criteria for choosing a place for growing coniferous plants

Choosing a place for evergreen pets must comply not only with the rules for constructing a landscape composition. The illumination of the site, soil composition, and humidity conditions are important.

Good area illumination

A prerequisite for planting all types of pine: Scots, cedar, mountain and dwarf cedar. Without the sun, the variegated forms of thuja and juniper will lose their colorful colors. Only the white color of the needles is well preserved in the shade.

Most types of coniferous trees tolerate growing in partial shade: spruce, fir, larch, western thuja, and many types of juniper. Green forms of spruce and fir can adapt to deep shade conditions. The champion in shade tolerance is the yew berry.

Soil preparation

For normal growth of most coniferous trees, light, permeable soil, often slightly acidic, is required. It contains at least 50% peat, sand, and a small amount of garden organic matter (compost, humus). Pine litter is added for structuring and light acidification. On the site with clay soil All seedlings require drainage.

Soil and air humidity

Western thuja and cypress have the greatest sensitivity to the amount of moisture. In dry times, they need both watering and regular spraying (in the morning and evening hours). The most drought-resistant crop is pine. Yew and most junipers easily tolerate a lack of water.

Planting various conifers

Before planting, the root system of the plants is generously moistened without removing it from the pot. The hole is made larger than the earthen ball in depth and diameter by 15-20 cm. Prepared soil is poured onto the bottom, watered and the seedling is installed. The free space of the pit is filled with soil. If the plant is large, layer-by-layer compaction of the hole and watering are required. When planting, seedlings should not be buried below the level at which they grew in the nursery. A small groove is formed along the edge of the hole for irrigation; the surface is mulched with peat, crushed bark or pine litter. In some cases, supports or guy wires on stakes are necessary.

If we dwell on the individual needs of various conifers when planting on a site that is close to ideal, the following picture will emerge.

Juniper We will offer a sunny place, in soil made of peat, woody soil and sand (2:1:1), with 15-20 cm of drainage (if the soil is heavy), where there will be broken brick and sand. Separately (according to soil) there are: Cossack with limestone soil, Virginia with a base on clay and Siberian with sandy soil.

Fir will feel great in the shade, planted in soil containing humus (chicken droppings), clay, peat and sand (3: 2: 1: 1). For heavy soil - 20 cm of drainage (crushed stone and brick).

Spruce will be blissful away from sunny places and groundwater, planted in “equally proportional” soil of turf soil, sand and peat, with 20 cm of drainage (brick and sand).

Yew“approves” partial shade and shade, turf with sand and peat (3:2:2) and the same drainage as spruce.

The pine tree will prefer a sunny, windy place on the site, in turf soil (a little clay) with sand (2:1).

Cypress"will count" slightly shaded places (with brighter colors - sunny ones), well rotted cow dung(chicken droppings) and peat with sand (3:2:1:2), with drainage like yew.

Thuja will prefer partial shade and sun, with standard drainage (see yew), leaf (turf) soil with sand and peat (2:1:1).

And finally, unpretentious larch We will plant it in the sun (possibly in a slightly shaded place) in the same soil as that of the thuja and with “spruce” drainage.

DIY planting material

Evergreens presented in large assortment on trading floors are quite expensive. Prices for large, formed specimens are especially high. It’s one thing to afford to purchase two or three trees for a single planting, and quite another when an evergreen tree is planned hedge or a coniferous garden. Price the required material then it adds up to a tidy sum.