Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard partition. Do-it-yourself plasterboard partitions: step-by-step instructions from A to Z

Even a non-professional can make partitions from plasterboard with his own hands. It can be erected in as soon as possible and with minimal costs. Drywall partitions do not have to be just square or rectangular: they can be semicircular, radius or arched.

To work you will need:
1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles for creating a frame. They must be equal in width: the rack profile must easily fit into the groove of the guide.
2. Construction level.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Plumb.
6. Drywall. Since the partition is sheathed on both sides, it will require 2 times the required area.
7. Soundproofing materials: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Metal scissors for cutting aluminum guides.
11. A sharp knife for cutting drywall.

Guide and rack profiles

Frame installation

1. Using a square and tape measure, mark on the floor the place where the partition will be mounted. You can transfer this line to the ceiling using a plumb line. The partition must be installed exactly at an angle of 90° with respect to the walls.

Transferring markup

2. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling using dowel nails. guide profile(it is marked with the letters UW). For the construction of a thin partition, a width of 50 mm is sufficient. When laying soundproofing materials inside the partition, the UW100 profile should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.

Attaching the profile to the ceiling

Attaching the sealing self-adhesive tape

3. Rack profile installed in guide grooves in increments of 60 cm. This is done using metal screws. In this case, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the drywall sheets are exactly to the center of the profile. The outer racks are secured first.

Attaching the rack profile

4. If necessary, you can lay inside the partition electrical wiring. It is laid horizontally at the frame assembly stage in a special non-flammable corrugation. Electrical wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.

Electrical wiring

Doorway arrangement

1. Mount vertically in the intended location along the width of the opening. two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. We will tell you below how to arrange an arched opening or an opening of any arbitrary curved shape.

2. You can strengthen the doorway using a wooden beam or two profiles connected to each other.

To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles

Fastening drywall

1. The partition is covered with plasterboard on both sides.

2. Its sheets are attached to the frame with in steps of 25 cm so that their edges are exactly in the center of the rack profile. In this case, the head of the screw for metal should be slightly buried in the sheet so that it can be hidden later under the putty.

3. Do not screw screws into the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, step back 5 cm from the edge.

Fastening drywall

4. Drywall is mounted staggered (in a checkerboard pattern) so that the joints of the sheets fall on the center of the sheet of the previous row.

Laying order of sheets

5. If sound insulation is necessary, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or any other similar material is laid between the profile posts. It is installed after one of the sides is already covered with plasterboard.

Location of the sound insulation layer

Drywall cutting

1. Mark the cut location on the sheet with a pencil. The mark from a ballpoint paste or felt-tip pen may be visible through the putty, so you should not use them.

2. Drywall consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core. Initially follows with a sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and gypsum core. To do this, the sheet is laid on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and an incision is made along it. To cut the core, a knife is drawn along the cut line several times.

Cutting the first layer of cardboard

3. Then bend the cut area and break the gypsum core by lightly tapping along the cut line.

In order to break off the core, the sheet is slightly bent

Cutting through the second layer of cardboard

5. To remove defects, the cut site is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Processing cut edges

putty

1. The joints of the sheets and the recesses of the screws are puttied using gypsum, polymer or cement putty. If, when putting putty, the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, it should be pushed into the sheet a little deeper.

Plasterboard putty

2. To strengthen the joints of the sheets, it is laid reinforcing self-adhesive mesh. Before laying it, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then the mesh should be glued. External corners are finished profile corners or corners with reinforcing mesh.

3. If a plasterboard wall will be wallpapered or tiled, it is not necessary to use reinforcing mesh. It is only required when preparing walls for plastering or painting.

Laying reinforcing mesh along the seams

Drywall bending

When arranging semicircular, radius or arched partitions, the plasterboard needs to be bent. This can be done in two ways: dry and wet.

1. When dry bending Vertical cuts are made on one side of the sheet. You can make them quickly using a grinder. Since this generates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to carry out work outside.

2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, the sheets are bent by lenght.

Dry bending

3. Wet bending. To allow moisture to penetrate deep into the sheet, it should be rolled before wetting. needle roller.

Roller rolling

5. A damp sheet of drywall is laid on the prepared template to dry. the desired shape and securely fixed.

Wet bending

Profile bending

For installation of curved structures you can purchase arched profile or make it yourself. To do this, they are made on both sides cuts every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the bending angle: the larger it is, the more often notches should be applied. To make the transition smooth, their frequency must be the same.

Arched profile

You can make an arched profile yourself using cuts

Arch profile fastening

Video: DIY plasterboard partitions

Technology for building partitions from plasterboard with your own hands

Making partitions from plasterboard is one of the ways to cheaply and very quickly fence off a space, make a separate room, or hide plumbing and ventilation elements in the middle of the room. Creating a drywall partition requires some effort, but it will not require strenuous physical work.

Partition design

The design of the partition consists of three main elements:

• frame;
• facing sheets;
• sound insulator or insulation.

Scheme of a plasterboard partition

The frame of a plasterboard partition can be made from metal profile, which occurs most often. Wood is the most rare due to its drying out, and as a result, deformation of the entire structure. And combined. The main frame is made of a metal profile, and wooden blocks are inserted to create the ability to attach heavy interior elements to the wall, household appliances and other components.

The production of partitions begins with the choice of material.

Advantages of using metal profiles?

The metal profile can be of any size, which makes it possible to build complex transitions and all kinds of niches from it. In addition, it is a fairly lightweight material, the structure of which is strong and durable. The main advantage of a metal profile is that it can be bent during the production of curved structures.

Metal profile frame

Having decided on the type of material used, it is necessary to solve the following questions:

1. What shape should the structure be?
2. Will heat – or sound – insulation be installed?
3. Will it hide pipes, ventilation ducts, etc.?

We first drew a design for the partition on a piece of paper. We decided on the location of doors, niches and other things. If the partition will have to hide plumbing elements, electrical wiring or something else, then the wall must be made of a thick profile (100 mm).

Next, you need to start applying markings to the walls and floor. To do this, use a plumb line and a construction cord. Using a level from the floor, the markings are transferred to the walls, and using a plumb line to the ceiling.

Do-it-yourself production of plasterboard partitions is carried out using two types of profiles:

1. UW (guide).
2. CW (rackmount).

Types of metal profiles

Accordingly, the rack is used to make vertical structural elements, the guide is used in the horizontal parts of the structure. In this case, the guide profile can be of the following sizes: 40x50, 40x75, 40x100 mm. Rack – 50x50, 50x75, 50x100 mm.

The following fastening components are required to build the partition from fasteners and hardware:

1. Metal screws for fastening the profile together. Unlike wood screws, they have a smaller thread pitch, which allows them to be clamped into a metal sheet much more tightly and their heads are flat on the bottom and slightly spherical on top. Rivets can be used instead. It is ideal to use a profile cutter for fastening.
2. Metal screws for attaching plasterboard sheets to the profile. They are usually black, also with fine carvings, but with a different wedge-shaped cap. This allows it to sink slightly into the sheet of cardboard. The calculator will help you calculate the required number of screws.
3. Dowel-nails. A self-tapping screw in a plastic cage is used to fasten a metal profile to a wall if it is made of brick, ASG blocks, or monolith.

If the walls are built of wood, then wood screws will help here. Their length is selected based on the weight of the future partition and the load imposed on it.

Installation of the structure

Having understood the types of materials and purchased all the necessary components, you can begin installing the first structural elements.

The first step is to attach the guide profile to the floor. If the floor will not rise in the future, then it is necessary to leave space for doors. The distance is selected based on the width of the box with a small margin of 2 cm at the edges to fill the voids with foam. It will not only hold the door frame together, but will also provide shock absorption for the door rather than the entire wall.

The guide profile is attached to the side walls and ceiling with a fastening pitch of no more than 50 cm. If necessary, it can be reduced, but this one is recommended.

Types of partitions depending on design:

The first type is used in lighter partitions where additional strength and sound insulation are not required. It uses only one layer of drywall on both sides. The second type is a more massive structure, respectively, and heavier due to the fastening of two layers of plasterboard sheets on both sides.

After you have decided on the type of partition, its thickness and attached the guide profile, you need to begin installing the rack elements. They are installed in guide trays and positioned strictly vertically. In this case, the stand is cut taking into account the distance from the lower profile to the upper one, minus 1 cm. It is recommended to place wooden blocks along the thickness of the profile near the doorway, and it is secured using wood screws. The recommended distance between the vertical structural elements of a plasterboard partition is 60 cm. If necessary, it can be reduced, but not increased.

There are two profile installation technologies. The first, called American, is to position the groove towards the far wall. The second technology, which was developed by German builders, consists of positioning the groove in the direction of installation.

Do-it-yourself methods for attaching guides and rack profiles

There are several ways to fasten guides and rack elements:

1. T-shaped connection.
2. Connection in cross structural elements using a spider.

Types of metal profile fasteners

A simple T-shaped connection consists of cutting the two sides of the profile and bending the resulting petals 90 0 to the sides. With their help, the two elements will then be fastened. This type of connection can be used in both cross and end structural members.

The second type of connection is used primarily in cross-joining profiles. Fastening element is a cross-shaped plate with many petals and perforated holes designed to simplify the installation of the structure. There are also many other components available for sale for the most different options connections and joints, even at an angle of 45 0.

Once the structure is ready, you can begin fastening the gypsum boards.

If the partition must be light, then cover one layer of cardboard, otherwise the second layer is attached directly through the first into the metal profile. In this case, the fastening distance of the first sheet can be increased from 50 to 75 cm. The second layer is attached at the recommended distance, no more than 50 cm. The sheets should be laid with 50% overlap of the top and bottom.

GKL cladding

After the partition on one side is completely covered with gypsum board, it is necessary to begin heat and sound insulation. It can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool. From packing density internal space The degree of noise reduction of the wall depends. After laying communications, wiring and plumbing, and installing sound insulation, you can begin installing gypsum boards on the second side of the partition according to the same principle.

Finishing a plasterboard partition

All plasterboard structures are finished using the same technology:

1. If wallpaper is to be glued, then it is enough to glue the joints of the plasterboard covering with a reinforcing mesh and use a spatula to cover the dimples formed when tightening the screws.
2. If the wall is to be painted, it is necessary to putty over the entire surface of the partition, followed by stripping and priming.

Manufacturing partitions from plasterboard will become excellent option, because in the end you always get a perfectly flat and smooth wall.

Online calculator, calculation of material for making plasterboard partitions

How to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands

When remodeling an apartment or private house, the need arises to create additional partitions that divide the room into separate zones or rooms as planned by the designer. Previously, such structures were built from brick or wood, but recently they prefer plasterboard. This affordable material has a lot of advantages, and even a novice craftsman with minimal construction skills can make a partition from plasterboard.

Advantages of using drywall when creating partitions

What are the advantages of using gypsum boards during construction? additional walls in room?

• The structure made from it is much lighter than from brick or concrete, which allows minimizing the load on the floors. This is quite relevant for premises in apartment buildings.
• In the cavities of the plasterboard partition, you can additionally place a layer of sound insulation or insulation, as well as extend electrical wiring. Unlike stone walls, this can be done without the dusty and labor-intensive chipping operation.

Drywall itself has good soundproofing properties, so even without additional materials, such a wall will prevent the spread of sound.

• GKL is environmentally friendly and fireproof.
• The resulting plane, after minimal processing, is ready for further finishing. The sheets form a smooth surface that can be painted, wallpapered, covered decorative plaster or even ceramic tiles.
• Easy to assemble. Almost anyone can install a plasterboard partition with their own hands, following simple step-by-step instructions. It does not require specialized skills or expensive professional tools.
• Drywall allows you to easily realize various design ideas: you can design a partition in the form of an arch, make a niche for a TV or other household appliances, build built-in shelves and much more.

Of course, there are also disadvantages. The main thing is the relative fragility of drywall: such interior partition It is much easier to damage than, for example, brick. In addition, even moisture-resistant plasterboard does not tolerate prolonged exposure to conditions of excess humidity.

Before assembling the structure from plasterboard, you will have to decide on the location of all the interior parts on the future wall: their attachment points need to be strengthened at the stage of assembling the frame.

Necessary materials

First of all, you will need the drywall itself. The partition, of course, is not bearing wall, but must have a certain strength. Therefore, sheets are taken with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm. Moisture-resistant and fire-resistant varieties of this material are used only when necessary.

A galvanized metal profile is ideal for forming the frame. Most partitions will require two types:

The guides have a standard length of 3 m. The size of the required rack profiles is selected based on the height of the room where the partition is being erected.

Horizontal lintels, which give rigidity to the structure and form doorways, are also made from a rack profile. That's why exact amount of this material is calculated only after compilation detailed diagram frame taking into account the required reserve.

In addition to the plasterboard and profile, for work you will need:

• Dowel-nails for attaching guides to the walls, ceiling and floor of the room. In a wooden room they are replaced with wood screws.
• Sealing tape to improve sound insulation. It is glued to the back side of metal profiles and prevents the transmission of sound vibrations from the main walls to the frame.
• Beam for strengthening the doorway. In size, it should fit tightly inside the rack profile - this will facilitate its installation.

Professionals advise fastening the profiles together using a cutter. But this tool is still not widely used, so small metal screws, popularly called “fleas” or “bugs,” are more often used.

Construction of plasterboard walls in an apartment: interior and full walls

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and interior walls. This could be a full-scale redevelopment, or a desire to split an existing room into two parts or to form rooms in a new building, which is made into a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material it is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build plasterboard walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone’s help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and durable design.

Materials for work

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we need to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, a frame should be initially erected. It is made of a metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

The profile of two main standard sizes is mainly used:

• D – to form the plane on which the drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
• W – for building a general wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each standard size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler version of a U-shaped profile with smooth walls; a support profile is inserted into it at the end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to obtain greater bending rigidity.

1. CD - size 60*27 mm main load-bearing element frame;
2. UD - size 28*27 mm guide for fixing the CD profile;
3. CW - size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
4. UW - size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
5. In addition, there is a UA profile, which is a version of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, and two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To secure the profile to the frame you will need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements must be twisted using flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for constructing a plasterboard wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To secure the entire frame to the main walls you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets for wall construction are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or bathroom, then moisture-resistant gypsum board is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the regular one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

plasterboard, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences at the link.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

1. roulette;
2. level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
3. plumb line;
4. fishing line, rope;
5. screwdriver or drill with reverse;
6. perforator;
7. metal scissors;
8. construction knife;
9. drywall float.

Beginning the formation of a plasterboard wall frame

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tools completed, you can begin planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is flat with screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from the UW, CW profile. On the floor we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere can you find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new plasterboard wall you should take this into account and tie not to one wall, but to both, which run parallel. In this case, the distances are averaged. This way you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to the construction of the wall, all walls are sheathed with plasterboard, then first the frame or at least the marking of the sheathing is laid out so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only begin to build the wall.
• When outlining the first line of the wall, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be aligned along it, and not the resulting wall. The thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finishing will be added to this mark.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. A plumb line is used for this. If you can use a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

Important: All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls, are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first to be fixed are the UW profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowels and impact screws every half meter and along the edges.

Support posts made of CW profile are attached to the edges of the guides. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from plasterboard. It is best to attach the profiles first to the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after this is it fixed to the upper guide. When positioning these profiles, allowance is made for covering strips of plasterboard over the profile. The profiles are installed with the front side facing into the opening. The racks are secured to the guides using flea screws.

The structure of a plasterboard partition.

The supporting profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings must be reinforced with wooden blocks, which are inserted inside the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step begins the installation of vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The vertical installation of the profiles must be checked.

In order to mark the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The profile sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. After this, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.

The resulting blank is placed with its bent edges onto the posts on the sides of the opening and raised to the required height. It is secured using self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter of window openings is formed in the same way.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing the drywall sheets. The sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet of height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will need to be added.

The first sheet that will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

How to cut drywall?

An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used for this. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. Mark the cut line with a pencil and cut the top layer of cardboard with a knife. After this, the sheet is shifted along the cut line to the edge of the support and carefully broken. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it turns on its edge and bends. The cardboard is also cut on the second side, but not all the way through. By turning the sheet over and moving it to the edge of the support, you can finally chip it off.

To ensure a gap that can be properly sealed later with putty, a bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with an inclination of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special plasterboard plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the gypsum board strip located above or below the sheet.

Fastening drywall sheets

The sheet should be secured to the metal frame using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges of the sheet are secured first, followed by the edges and the midline. For this purpose, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The screws are screwed in so that the caps go slightly deeper into the plasterboard and do not stick out above the wall level.

Having secured the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. A chamfer is also formed on it on the sides where it will be docked to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is installed below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying out wiring and installing sockets and switches

Before covering the second side, you can lay the wires if necessary. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is advisable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to subsequently damage the wires. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

Mineral wool is used for this. This will make the plasterboard wall less transparent to sound, because without soundproofing all the noise from one room will be heard in another. Easier to use roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the rack profiles without gaps. There is no need to secure it further. For reliability, you can form horizontal lintels from wooden beams along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completing the construction of a plasterboard wall

After this, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can begin filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of plasterboard there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is slightly recessed. The joints are glued with a mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall using starting putty. Finishing putty is applied to all places where screws are installed or to the entire surface, especially if the wall will subsequently be painted or covered with thin wallpaper. Using abrasive mesh and a trowel, the putty layer is finally leveled. After this, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: making walls from plasterboard with your own hands

Plasterboard partitions photo, how to make interior plasterboard partitions with your own hands, design, assembly and installation

Is it magic to get additional living space without actually increasing the area of ​​your apartment? Maybe, but this magic is within the power of every person who has the slightest knowledge of construction and repair skills. Separate a small office, bedroom or children's room in limited space Plasterboard partitions help.
This element of apartment design is in great demand among designers today, and all thanks to its ease of use and wide creative possibilities. Feel yourself in the role of a novice creator, and at the same time expand the capabilities of the living space you use.

Plasterboard partitions, plasterboard partitions in the interior photo

Interior partitions made of plasterboard are not only fashionable, but also incredibly convenient designs that allow you to solve the problem of personal space for family members and create a favorable atmosphere in the apartment. Among other, more practical advantages of gypsum plasterboard walls:
Environmental friendliness. Decorative plasterboard partitions meet all requirements environmental safety, and therefore can even be used in decorating the interior of a children's room.

1. Practicality. A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition can be erected very quickly, and during repairs there is not a lot of debris generated. This significantly saves time on repairs and the nerves of the housewife, who has to clean the room after the construction of the structure.
2. Economical. The building material is quite inexpensive, and the fittings are also affordable. Thanks to this, the installation of plasterboard partitions is affordable for families with modest incomes.
3. Light weight. The relatively small weight of the structure (25-50 kg/m2) does not burden load-bearing slabs in the apartment, which means it does not disrupt engineering communications apartment building. Due to this, by the way, before the construction of the wall there is no need to go to the authorities and coordinate the alteration.
4. Perfect flatness of surfaces. There’s not even anything to comment on here. The self-built plasterboard partition on both sides forms an ideal smooth surfaces, ready for finishing.

Drywall is a malleable material, thanks to which any design ideas can be realized. If you look at the photo of plasterboard partitions, you will see that the designers’ imagination is not limited to a simple blank wall. From gypsum plasterboard you can create partitions of almost any shape and configuration, open and closed, blind and with openings (or stained glass), simple and figured, even backlit. Of course, all this requires some effort, but the result has not disappointed anyone yet. Try to zone a room with drywall, and we will help you with this.

Modern choice finishing materials allows you to carry out repairs of any complexity without any problems own apartment or home. The main thing is that you have the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions.

Delineating space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy to process material. It has a lot of advantages and virtually no disadvantages.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good sound insulation.
5. No “wet” or dirty work during installation.
6. Variability of finishing of the outer layer.
7. A frame that allows the laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. Use wooden structure frame is impractical: wood rots and deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and the presence of a special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is no lower than a metal profile.

Other required materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing seams between sheets of drywall.
7. Acrylic based primer.
8. Plasterboard sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What types of profiles are there for drywall?

Conventional and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for installing plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide hardware is used to attach drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 markings for guide profiles, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest are 50 by 40 mm, the widest are 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 by 50 mm to 100 by 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed is not recommended to be increased in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required to construct a plasterboard partition

After all the necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you should carefully consider future design partitions and their location in the room.

Exactly the same marks are made on the second wall. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markings as follows: you need to draw a straight line along the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines coincide, then the markings are applied correctly. Along these lines will be attached plasterboard partition to the wall and to the floor.

Marks on the ceiling are measured in the same way. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not tilt or skew in any direction.

Once the markings have been applied, you can begin installing the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. The guide fittings are screwed onto the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is intended for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with the partition. The sealing tape also plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which the plasterboard structure may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into a room fenced off by a partition, you need a passage under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert a door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert the rack profiles into each other and fasten them together.
2. Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
3. Reinforce the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the proposed door is made of lightweight materials and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door leaves, it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

Under the doorway you need to leave the required width (size of the canvas) and add another 8 cm to the existing size, for door frame.

After the door profile is positioned, the top lintel is positioned and fastened between them.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway it is done vertical lathing from fittings, from floor to ceiling, step - 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, you get a kind of cage, with a vertically attached profile.

It is important to know

Mounting rack profiles is required in a certain order: The stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the frame will begin to be covered with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that the first sheets of drywall need to be attached from the edge side, the subsequent ones - to the remaining part of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended technology for covering the frame, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications (electrical wires, computer and TV cables), It is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If you plan to hang a picture or lamp on the partition, then metal carcass You need to install a crossbar from the profile in advance. The location of the jumper must be marked in order to later attach the accessory to the profile using self-tapping screws.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If a stronger and more reliable structure is required, the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Cladding the erected profile frame with plasterboard

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and spaced 1 cm from the floor. When cutting facing material Care should be taken to cut the cardboard and gypsum core with a special knife for cutting plasterboard. This will protect the material from cracking and breaking during cutting into the required size fragments.

It is advisable to process the edges with a roughing plane, then using an edge plane, a chamfer having an angle of 20-22 degrees is cut out at the ends.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, so when cutting drywall, you should take into account the spacing between the rack fittings.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. Screws must be screwed to the profile after 15-20 cm; at jumpers and joints of sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Also, screws cannot be attached near the very edge of the sheet , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When attaching the facing material, you do not need to embed the screw heads into the drywall too much, maximum - 1 mm. The sunken caps can be puttyed later.

After one side of the partition is lined with plasterboard, you can begin installing soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are routed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and isover. Each type of material has a whole set of useful properties, for example, polystyrene foam can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof a partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections of the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can begin lining the second side of the partition.

After erecting the gypsum board structure, it is necessary to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, smoothing out all the unevenness, hiding the fastener heads and seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and pressed down using a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is to be covered with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that through thin wallpaper The seams may show through and spoil the entire appearance of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while it will be impossible to remove it. You'll have to put new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Can not use façade putty For interior work. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

To erect partitions in places with unstable humidity and temperature conditions, it is recommended to use special sheets of plasterboard. They are painted in green color and have good moisture resistance. You can lay tiles on this material.

Video - Installation of a partition made of plasterboard from KNAUF

Recently, drywall has become a very popular material for construction. Most often it is used to create interior partitions, ceiling and wall coverings. But such structures cannot be created from drywall alone without creating load-bearing structures, assembled from special guide profiles. Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to make plasterboard partitions with your own hands.

Let's look at the most popular types of profiles for drywall.

These profiles differ, firstly, in their functional purpose:

• The guide profile (marked PN or UD) has a cross-section in the form of a channel. It is used as a basis for securing the rack profile. The width of the shelves of the guide profile is standard and is 40 mm, and the width of the backrest can be 50, 65, 75 or 100 mm. The profile is marked according to these parameters. For example, the profile PN 40-75 has a shelf of 40 mm and a back of 75 mm.
• The rack profile (marked PS or CW) looks the same, but its shelves have small bends inward at the ends and have a slightly larger width - 50 mm. It is marked similarly, i.e. profile PS 50-75 has a shelf of 50 mm and a back of 75 mm. In practice, the width of the backrest is slightly smaller than indicated. For example, for the PS 50-50 profile it is about 48.5 mm.
• Ceiling (marked PPP or CD) and ceiling guide (marked PNP or UD) are used in the manufacture of ceiling frames for plasterboard sheathing.
• To create smooth and beautiful external corners, corner profiles for plasterboard (marked PU) are used. They protect soft corners formed by plasterboard sheets from various damages.
• To create curved structures, a special arched profile is used, consisting of a solid back and shelves, divided into separate sections, allowing it to be easily bent and given smooth rounded shapes.
• The beacon profile (marked PM) is designed to align walls to a given level; it works as a stop that sets the desired level to the rule.

The length of finished profiles varies from 2750 to 6000 mm.

In addition, profiles also differ in the thickness of the metal from which they are made.

• A profile with a thickness of 0.4 mm is used only for light structures, for example, sheathing for walls or ceilings.
• The 0.45 mm thick profile has an average load-bearing capacity and is often used to create non-load-bearing partitions.
• The 0.55 mm thick profile has good bearing capacity and is used to create interior partitions that will be loaded, for example, with shelves.

Drywall is also divided into several types:

• GKL is a regular plasterboard for finishing premises, produced in gray color with blue markings.
• GKLV is a moisture-resistant plasterboard for rooms with high humidity, available in green color with blue markings.
• GKLO - fire-resistant plasterboard for attics, electrical rooms, ventilation shafts, produced in gray color with red markings.
• GKLVO - fire-resistant and moisture-resistant plasterboard, produced in green color with red markings.

The standard thickness of drywall is 6, 9, 12.5 or 15 mm. Small thicknesses are used to form curved surfaces and create arches. For wall cladding, only 12.5 or 15 mm sheets are used.

Installation

Based on the above-mentioned characteristics of the materials, for the manufacture of the internal frame of the partition we will use a profile with a width of 75 mm and a thickness of 0.55 mm, and for cladding - gypsum plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm.

Main tools used in work:

• screwdriver;
• level;
• square;
• plumb line;
• roulette;
• stationery knife;
• metal scissors.

Installation of the guide profile

We begin work by installing the guide profile. We mark a line on the floor along which we will build the future partition. The line can be marked using a laser level or the profile itself.

When installing partitions, it is necessary to take into account that in the drawing they may have zero thickness, but in reality their thickness will be the sum of the width of the profile and the thickness of two sheets of drywall attached to it.

We fix the guide profile along the line marked on the floor. If the floor is wooden, use self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. If the floor is cement-concrete, then you need to pre-drill holes with a drill and secure dowels in them. We make fasteners at intervals of 30-40 cm.

Using the guide profile as the bottom mounting point, we install another guide profile on the wall. We make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, controlling the level or plumb line. We attach it to the walls in the same way as we attached the lower guide profile. For walls made of gas silicate blocks, dowel-nails should be used, which are also installed at intervals of 30-40 cm.

We connect the profiles at the joints with short self-tapping screws (10-15 mm).

Similarly, we fix the guide profile on the ceiling, closing the contour of the future partition.

Installation of vertical rack profiles

To install a blind partition without a doorway, we begin the installation of vertical rack profiles from one of the walls. The installation locations of the profiles are calculated depending on the width of the plasterboard sheets. Each sheet should have three vertical posts - left, center and right. For example, if the width of the sheet is 120 cm, then the racks must be positioned in increments of 60 cm. The installation of vertical profiles must be carried out so that the measured 60 cm fall in the middle of the shelf when fastened. Then the joint of the drywall sheets will be in exactly this place and they can be easily secured.

The length of the rack profile should be 0.5-1 cm less than the height of the room. In case of possible shrinkage of the room, this distance will allow the structure to “settle.”

When connecting profiles, screw the screws first closer to the back, and then closer to the edge. If you try to do the opposite, there is a high risk of the shelf bending.

Installation of horizontal cross profiles

Short pieces are cut from the profile and installed between adjacent vertical posts, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure. The length of these sections is chosen so that they can be securely fastened to the rack profiles with short self-tapping screws.

Horizontal profiles are also placed in increments depending on the length of the plasterboard sheets, but not less than 40 cm. The edges of the sheets should fall in the middle of these profiles. In addition, horizontal profiles must be provided in places where shelves, hooks, etc. are planned to be placed. Wooden blocks should be inserted into these profiles to which the load will be attached. The size of the bars should be such that they fit tightly into the horizontal profile without distorting its shape. We attach such profiles with embedded parts to vertical posts with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

When fixing horizontal profiles, it is necessary to check with a level or a carpenter's square that they do not distort from the horizontal level along their axis.

Electrical wiring placement

When the frame is completely assembled, electrical wiring is placed inside it. In rack profiles for these purposes, special holes are provided through which wires are passed.

Electrical wiring is placed inside the partitions in non-combustible insulation. It is recommended to check its serviceability before starting finishing work.

Fastening drywall

When the partition is completely installed, it is the turn of the drywall. Where the width and height of the partition allows, we place the sheets entirely; in other places they will have to be cut.

It is best to cut drywall using a drywall knife or a large utility knife. To do this, having marked the required shape, the knife is repeatedly drawn along the cut line, not trying to cut through it immediately, but gradually going deeper into it. There are more quick way cutting drywall, suitable for straight lines only. We notch one of the sides of the sheet according to the markings, turn it over and bend it towards ourselves along the notched line. In this case, the plaster breaks exactly along the intended line and only the cardboard on one side remains uncut. We cut this cardboard and the part is ready.

For ease of finishing work, a chamfer is formed on the cut edges of the drywall using a plane with an inclined blade. If you don’t have a plane, then a regular knife will do.

When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a small gap between them and the floor using supports 3-5 mm thick.

Next, we attach the sheet to the guides and vertical posts in increments of 15-20 cm. The self-tapping screws should be recessed 1 mm into the surface of the sheet. We check each installed sheet for horizontal level. An additional guideline for this is the vertical rack profiles.

Partition with door

When installing a partition with a doorway, we begin the installation of vertical rack profiles not from the wall, but from this opening. In the guide profile on the floor we provide a gap at the site of the future opening. We install the rack profile in the guides so that the width of the doorway at the top and bottom is the same.

When calculating the width of the opening, remember that it will contain not only door leaf, but also the door frame. Its thickness also needs to be taken into account.

To increase the strength of the future doorway, it is necessary to use dry wooden blocks inserted inside the profile. To attach the rack profile with the bar to the guide, we use self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

The transverse profile delimiting the doorway from above is also reinforced with a wooden block. The length of this bar should be equal to the width of the doorway. After laying the bar, the transverse profile is secured to the rack profiles with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

We connect the bars located in the racks with a bar embedded in the transverse profile using self-tapping screws or nails 120-150 mm long, forming a strong structure for future fastening of the door frame.

Having installed the profiles around the doorway, we mount the remaining rack profiles along the entire length of the partition, also starting from the doorway in accordance with the width of the drywall sheets, as described earlier.

Soundproofing of partitions

We soundproof partitions using sheets mineral wool or any other insulation material that is cut and placed in the formed cells between the profiles. The thickness of the insulation is chosen equal to the width of the guide profiles, in our case – 75 mm.

When installing drywall, make sure that entire sheets are installed from the middle to the edges. In this case, the trimmings will be closer to the wall, in less noticeable places.

After installing the soundproofing, we attach the drywall to the back side, covering our partition. We close the gaps formed between the wall and the profile polyurethane foam. This will improve sound insulation.

In order for the built partition to become suitable for final finishing, its surface needs to be puttied. The putty will hide the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws, forming a smooth surface.

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly smooth walls. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster it along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions also done using drywall. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Attachment to frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select those that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If laser level no, you will have to use ordinary construction material ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing its load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “flea beetles” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large, place it every 60 cm; if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height of the door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, installation begins plasterboard sheets. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build a metal frame filled with mineral wool and covered with gypsum board, that is, slabs with a gypsum core covered with durable construction cardboard. This is enough simple system, which you can install yourself. How to make a partition from plasterboard and profiles?

All about installing plasterboard partitions:

Which drywall is suitable?

First of all, you need to choose materials that suit your needs.

Kinds

For finishing city apartments and country houses the following types are used:

• Ordinary. It is intended for rooms where the water vapor content in the air is 30-60%.
• Moisture-resistant, easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
• Fire resistant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less often used in private homes. Meanwhile, the impact-resistant material is good choice for rooms where there is a possibility mechanical impact on the walls of children's rooms and corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which you plan to hang heavy furniture.

GKL sizes

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

• Width 600 or 1200
• Length from 2000 to 4000
• Thickness 6.5; 8; 9.5; 12.5; 14; 16; 18; 20

The popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move on site. Experts recommend using slabs with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for cladding to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they insulate sound worse, and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers of sheet material. The larger, the stronger and stiffer the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to its massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of ​​the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we do the cladding in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If in two layers, then in four. We divide this figure by the area of ​​one gypsum board. For example, for a product measuring 2500x1200 it is 3 m2. Don’t forget about the reserve, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round up to a whole number and obtain the required number of slabs.

How to choose profile sizes

Partitions are constructed from horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

• The cross-section of the guides is 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
• Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is selected based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the stand must fit tightly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections with a section of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save apartment space, a wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame made of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply building codes in terms of sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from elements 50x70 or 50x100. You can also take dry, knot-free wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of insulating airborne noise.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For interior wall choose designs of at least 0.6 mm. If you use thinner parts, then when attaching the slabs, the screws may turn, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

Materials

1. Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fiber)
2. Damper (sealing) tape
3. Dowel-nails
4. Anchor wedges
5. Self-tapping screws with press washer
6. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
7. Acrylic primer
8. Plaster or polymer putty
9. Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands

Installation of plasterboard can only be carried out after all “wet” work on site has been completed. If the air in the room is heavily saturated with moisture, the slabs will absorb it and may become deformed.

In addition, it is not recommended to begin installation immediately after delivery of the plasterboard to the site. After all, they were most likely stored in damp unheated room. If they are immediately placed vertically in a heated room and secured to a base, they will begin to dry unevenly, which can lead to their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceeding with the main work.

Marking

The first stage is marking the design location. It is performed using a laser level or ruler in combination with a coloring chop cord. First, mark the place for the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then using laser device or a plumb line, the outline of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installation of guides

• Ensure that the guides fit snugly to the base.
• Prevent the spread of vibration from the house structure by improving sound insulation.

Horizontal beams are fixed to the floor and walls with 6x40 dowel nails. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally about 40 cm), moreover, there must be at least three dowel nails per guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. The nails are driven in with a screwdriver or, if you have experience, with the same hammer drill. It is recommended to attach them to the ceiling with wedge anchors in pre-drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal scissors (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding screw heads can cause unevenness. Meanwhile, the structure is not designed for plastering, and putty can be used to “remove” small bumps and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the labor intensity of the work.

Construction of racks

Typically, the pitch of vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity this way: make a stand from two profiles, installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened using horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws and press washers. It is not right. The caps will face towards the room, will stick out and interfere during the covering, which will ultimately negatively affect the reliability of the entire system. As an option, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws until the base is assembled. And then, immediately before finishing the gypsum boards, unscrew them step by step. But this will increase installation time.

The optimal solution is a cutter. He will connect the parts using the cutting and folding method. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. Let us add that the vertical supports must be level before fastening.

A technical error is considered to be the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls and ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to attach the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, seams filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a Doorway

Most often it is performed using standard profiles, inside of which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special 2 mm thick profile element, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening they provide horizontal jumper from a trimmed frame part. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the posts with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Before installation, holes are cut in the racks for electrical wiring. The cables are pulled into corrugated pipes. The holes in the plasterboard for the socket boxes are made with metal crowns - attachments for a screwdriver.

The space between the racks is filled with sound-absorbing mats or rolls of mineral wool. They are selected based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg/m3 is suitable. Wool of less density cakes and settles over time.

Sheathing

When performing this, the following rules must be observed:

• Use self-tapping screws of the required length. The calculation is as follows: length = sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (the fastener should extend into the metal part by this amount). That is, for single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for double-layer sheathing - 3.5 cm long.
• When screwing, the screws must be recessed into the gypsum board strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, they will become an obstacle during puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. Cheap way set the desired depth - an attachment with a limiter for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals prefer a screwdriver with limited driving depth.
• The installation pitch of the screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the slab from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from its end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal edge.
• Often the height of the structure longer GKL. Then, with single-layer cladding, vertically adjacent slabs are joined on an additional lintel. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, the jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart relative to each other.
• To avoid the appearance of cracks, you need to leave a gap between the slabs and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left on top, and at the point where the sheathing adjoins the ceiling, you can stick a separating tape.
• Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or stationery knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife, it is neat and does not create dust. However, you cannot remove the edges from the sheets at the joints with a knife (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5°. This allows you to make a 45° joint between materials. If it is necessary to level the edge of the cut layer, use a roughing plane.
• The doorway is first completely covered with sheathing, which is then cut along the posts and lintel - this makes it easier to ensure the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements to prevent cracks from occurring.