To level walls and improve appearance surfaces use one of the fastest and most reliable methods of wall finishing - the use of special sheets.
It can be any type plasterboard sheets or gypsum fiber. Wall finishing using plasterboard occurs in one of two ways: for minor irregularities, frameless, and for large deviations in the vertical, a frame method of cladding is used.
Everything you need for work
Finishing Tool:
- self-tapping screws;
- tape measure or ruler;
- bubble level;
- rule;
- rope;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- grinder or metal scissors;
- grater;
- construction knife.
The list of materials depends on the method of wall finishing. When using a frame for wall cladding, you need to purchase the following material (approximate list per m2):
- Drywall sheets - 1 m2 (in 1 layer);
- Guide and ceiling profiles (0.7 linear meters and 2.0 linear meters, respectively);
- Self-tapping screws - TN25 (14 pcs.), TN35 (14 pcs., if in 2 layers), LN9 (1.4);
- Putty – 0.3 kg;
- Reinforcing tape 0.75 linear m.;
- Dowels – 1.6 pcs.;
- Sealing tape – 0.85 linear meters;
- Primer – 0.1 l;
- Mineral wool board – 1.0 m2;
- Direct suspension for PP 60/27 – 0.7.
When finishing plasterboard walls with your own hands, using the frameless method, you need the following list of materials, based on 1 m2:
- GK sheets 12.5 mm - 1.0 m 2;
- Strips (plasterboard sheet) – 2.6 (V) linear. m.;
- Reinforcing tape – 0.75 linear meters;
- Putty – 0.3 kg;
- Putty (glue) – 0.8 (A, B);
- Glue – 3.5 (B, C);
- Corner profile (as needed);
- Primer – 0.1 l.
Frame method
As noted above, the frame method is used for very uneven walls, as well as to hide various types of pipes.
Before covering the walls with plasterboard material, it is necessary to check the wall for unevenness and create a frame. Using a tape measure, measurements are taken along the entire perimeter of the wall to ensure that there are no or no discrepancies in length and width.
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An example of finishing a wall with plasterboard sheets. Anyone with no experience in construction can cope with this work. To mount drywall on walls, you need to choose an installation option: framed or frameless.
1 option
Horizontal markings are made on the wall along which the rack profile will be installed. The position of the vertical profiles should be marked on the floor, the installation step of the elements is 60 cm.
Measurements are taken along the axes of the elements. Sometimes, for structural rigidity, it is reduced to 40 cm.
Frame assembly
Measure the width of the load-bearing wall according to the markings and cut required quantity profile according to these dimensions. For convenience, cut one centimeter smaller. 
Before screwing, sealing material is glued to the guide profile. If there is none, then you can miss back surface sealant. Secure the profile according to the marks and screw it using dowels and nails. Rack profiles are installed in the guides, in the places where the marks are placed. The connection is made with “seeds” - small self-tapping screws.
Each profile is checked with a plumb line for verticality. As soon as the third profile is installed, you need to attach a slab of drywall to the structure.
Its edges should end in the middle of the third rack profile. Install jumpers between the frame slats - this will add rigidity to the structure. If there is supposed to be a switch on the wall, then it is worth stretching the electrical wire behind the frame and bringing out the ends. In places where pieces of furniture are attached to the wall, mortgages are installed. 
An example of installing mortgages for attaching cabinets to the wall. Once all the stages of installing the frame have been completed.
Covering the frame with plasterboard
First of all, screw whole slabs to the frame, make sure that the sheets meet each other exactly in the middle of the profile. The screws are located in the seam areas in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 15 cm. On the sheet, the screw pitch is 25 cm. For fastening, black self-tapping screws are used, which should be screwed into the drywall, deepening them by 1 mm.
The screwdriver should be set to low power so as not to damage the fragile surface of the gypsum board. In the places where the sockets are installed, holes are made with a crown and special cups are installed into which the ends of the electrical wires are led out.
Frameless method of finishing walls with plasterboard: step-by-step instructions
This method involves gluing gypsum board sheets directly onto the wall, without constructing a structure from profiles. First of all, prepare the plane for further installation. Preparation of the wall surface needs to be given Special attention, it must be carefully prepared so that the work of installing drywall on the walls is successful. If the walls have been previously painted oil paint, no problem, just make a notch on them. 
Applying glue to a sheet of drywall This work can be done using a hammer drill with a certain notch or a simple ax. If there are cracks or potholes in the wall, they need to be sealed with plaster or foam. The polyurethane foam will penetrate deep into the crack, filling it to its full depth. After the foam has dried, it must be cut flush with the wall.
Next, you need to remove dust from the wall, this is done with a wide brush. The next step is priming. The primer is applied in two layers; it is advisable to choose a material with antiseptic properties. The soil should dry well, usually this takes 6-10 hours. 
While the primer is drying, you can check the verticality of the wall; for this you can use:
- level;
- long rule;
- plumb line;
- timber with a perfectly flat surface.
Often, when performing this action, a strong curvature of the surface of the walls is revealed; they will have to be leveled. This can be done using plaster or glue when attaching sheets. The video tells and shows how to glue drywall to a wall.
The process of installing drywall on the wall
You can attach drywall sheets using glue or foam. If the walls are smooth, then the glue can be applied over the entire surface using a notched trowel with a tooth height of 0.9 cm. After this, a sheet is placed and pressed firmly against the surface. For reliability, the structure can be additionally secured with dowels with nails around the perimeter.
If the wall has uneven surfaces, then the glue is applied in small beads in those places where there is a gap between the wall and the leveled material. 
It is necessary to install the sheet and press it without disturbing the geometry. Once the glue has dried, you can begin finishing as described above.
Wall covering with plasterboard - simple and budget method leveling surfaces. In many cases, choosing it is more rational than using plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard cladding can be carried out in short time, additional effects of its use are improved sound and heat insulation in the room.
Drywall for walls can be different; the desired one is chosen based on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:
- normal – suitable for rooms with normal humidity levels;
- moisture resistant – used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
- fire-resistant - they are used to sheathe sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
- fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private homes.
The minimum thickness of plasterboard for wall cladding is 12.5 mm. More thin materials used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating volumetric structures.
Installation methods
There are 2 methods of fastening gypsum boards: frame and frameless.
The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the sheathing material is attached directly to the surface requiring leveling, fixed with glue; the construction of additional sheathing is not required. Attaching plasterboard to the wall in this way is only possible if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.
The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the sheathing. In this case, the sheathing is first placed on the wall, and only then the gypsum board is secured.
Frameless method
To decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands you will need:
- construction level;
- set of spatulas;
- rule;
- a jigsaw or a sharp construction knife for cutting sheathing material;
- construction grater;
- square, pencil;
- rubber mallet;
- electric drill with a special attachment for mixing the solution;
- screwdriver;
- gypsum putty;
- brush and roller for applying primer;
- primer with antifungal additives;
- serpyanka (tape for sealing gypsum board joints);
- self-tapping screws
Before covering the wall with sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to prepare the surface.
Preparation
The old covering from the wall must be removed. If the surface is painted with oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, notches are made on the wall with an ax or hammer drill. This is necessary to improve adhesion.
All irregularities, recesses and cracks are filled with putty or polyurethane foam. After the solution hardens, remove excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.
Before attaching drywall to the wall, you need to prime it and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then one or more coats of primer are applied deep penetration, using a roller for smooth areas, and for corners and others hard to reach places paint brush. Allow at least 2 hours between coats. You should start marking only after the wall is completely dry.
Marking
Wall cladding with plasterboard is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. To work you will need a level. The easiest way to work is with a laser, but a bubble one will also work.
The marking should be carried out taking into account possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of approximately 1 cm should be left between the end of the gypsum board and the floor, and 5 mm between the gypsum board and the ceiling. A control line is drawn near the ceiling; it is usually not required from below, since it is easier to form the required indentation by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the plasterboard during installation.
Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. Attach drywall to the walls begin from this mark.
Glue selection
The composition is selected taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.
Installation with gypsum or cement based adhesive
This is the most popular way to install drywall on walls.
Work order:
- The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
- The plasterboard is turned over to the wrong side. Apply the mortar in long broken lines along the edges of the slab around the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, glue is applied in dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, maintaining a distance of about 20-30 cm between them. For reliable fixation of drywall on the wall, it is necessary that at least 10% of the entire area of the slab is covered with adhesive.
- Work starts from the corner. Place 1 cm thick plywood on the floor to leave a gap. Bring the drywall to the wall to the vertical marking line, apply it, and align it relative to the line.
- Apply the rule over the stove to evenly distribute the composition. Using a building level, make sure that there are no deviations to the side. If they exist, they correct the shortcomings.
- After final drying adhesive composition Additionally, the drywall is fixed using dowels-“fungi”.
- Using a similar method, further cladding of the walls is carried out with whole sheets of gypsum plasterboard, and only after this they begin cladding the remaining narrow sections of the wall. To do this, measure open areas walls and cut out parts of the required size from the slabs.
GCR is cut with a jigsaw or knife. The edges should be made at an angle so that the joints can later be filled with putty.
Installation on polymer compounds
Cladding gypsum board walls with synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the slab in the same way as when using dry mixtures, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, having previously leveled them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.
The hardening time of the glue depends on the composition.
Fixing with polyurethane foam
To cover walls with plasterboard using this method, apply foam to the edges around the perimeter of the slab and draw several lines along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.
The final hardening time is about a day. After this, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.
For uneven surfaces, a different method is used - first fix the plasterboard, and then foam the voids.
Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with plasterboard using this method:
- The plate is fixed to the wall along the marking line. Drill holes in the wall for dowels (the gypsum boards are not removed). In total, for one sheet, for reliable fixation, you will need about 10-12 self-tapping screws, which will need to be placed evenly over the entire area.
- After drilling the holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
- On the wrong side of the gypsum board using double sided tape foam rubber is glued. Pieces of material should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side should be used to attach the drywall to the wall, and which side should the foam be attached to, you should inspect the slab. There are no markings or markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
- Place the sheet on the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by tightening the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in all the way.
- This method is used to install drywall on walls.
- Make holes in the plasterboard, placing them in the areas between the screws. Through these holes, polyurethane foam is pumped into the space between the sheet and the wall.
- After the foam has hardened (in at least a day), the screws can be recessed a couple of mm into the sheets or the fasteners can be completely unscrewed and then these areas can be puttied.
This technology of covering walls with plasterboard involves a large consumption of foam, but allows you to cope with significant curvature without installing a frame.
Frame method
To work you will need:
- metal profile;
- building level;
- drill or hammer drill;
- pendants;
- spatulas;
- construction knife or jigsaw;
- tape measure, pencil;
- metal scissors.
Covering walls with plasterboard begins with preparing the surfaces. It is believed that when frame method no finishing required old decoration and priming, but it is recommended to do it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.
The frame can also be made from wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is susceptible to rotting and deformation, so finishing walls with plasterboard using wooden lathing is impractical.
Marking
Work order:
- A plumb line is fixed to the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
- Screw in the self-tapping screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. Mark all 4 walls this way.
- Stretch the thread around the entire perimeter, securing it to the screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.
The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm. There is no point in making it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the plasterboard partition, the less effective area premises.
Frame installation
The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before this, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the floors to the frame.
The profile is cut using metal scissors.
The next step is to mark the lines for installing the rack profile. The racks should be placed at a distance of 60 cm, so that when facing the walls with plasterboard on a metal frame, the joints of the slabs fall directly on the center of the profile. In case on plasterboard partition subsequently a high load is planned (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.
By measuring the distance from the top to bottom rails and subtracting 1 cm, you get the required height of the racks. Parts of the required length are cut from the profile. Place it first into the lower guide, then into the upper, positioning it in accordance with the markings. The racks are attached to the wall using hangers.
Before covering the wall with plasterboard, insulation is laid, if necessary.
Installation of gypsum boards
Proceed to installing the sheets on the frame. The cladding begins with whole slabs, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the solid sheet is secured first, aligning it along the bottom guide. The next sheet is mounted on the ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.
Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall to the wall on a profile. Screw them in, installing minimal amount turns on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.
The total number of fasteners per 1 sheet is at least 45. 5 screws are screwed into the short side of the gypsum board, the rest are distributed along the long sides and the center of the slab. The fastener head should be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. Do not tighten the screws too much.
When they finish covering the walls with plasterboard with their own hands, they move on to finishing the constructed structure.
Finishing
At the final stage, the joints of the slabs are grouted. The method is selected taking into account what decorative finishing will be used in the future.
When using elastic materials (plastic tiles, non-woven or photo wallpaper with a PVC base), chamfer both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the resulting groove will be 45 °. After this, fill the groove with gypsum-based starting putty.
When finishing plasterboard walls with other materials, the seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90°. To fill the grooves, use adhesive putty. It is applied generously, then rubbed, and the serpyanka is immediately applied on top, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming an even plane.
Having learned how to properly cover walls with plasterboard yourself, you can begin repair work. If you adhere to the work technology in the process, the finished structure will be stable and durable.
Finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house
Everyone chooses for themselves... the house in which they will live. Someone is building a house out of concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, some prefer a house made of brick, while others prefer a building made of environmentally friendly wood, without fear of fire.
Fire hazard is perhaps the most serious and severe drawback wooden houses, with all its advantages. And although building materials are treated with fire retardants, they partially solve the problem.
Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls due to fluctuations in humidity in the wood. Particularly unstable new house. It will be several years before new building will settle down, all the logs (beams) will fall into place.
Advantages of finishing walls with plasterboard
GKL is a favorable material for building finishing. Can be sheathed interior partitions plasterboard not only in wooden house, arrange exclusive dropped ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.
The manufacturer offers several brands of gypsum boards:
- GKL - standard;
- VGKL - waterproof;
- OGKL - fire-resistant;
- OVGKL is waterproof and fire resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than standard, but will also last much longer. He's not afraid high humidity, and will not ignite from the slightest spark.
For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two brands of gypsum plasterboard. For installation in toilets and bathrooms (shower rooms) would be better suited waterproof plasterboard sheet.
It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of covering wooden walls with plasterboard:
- With this finishing they turn out perfect smooth surfaces, which can be puttied, painted, covered with any type of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.
- Provide some thermal and noise insulation.
- Relatively low price material and work process.
GKL boards are easy to work with. They are freely cut with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut out any shapes (for ceilings), any sizes of slabs for wall cladding. You can work with plasterboard yourself, without the involvement of specialists.
Finishing rules
Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected with fire-resistant gypsum board sheathing. Finishing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or cobblestone masonry and give it perfect view. Heat and waterproofing materials, electrical wiring is located.
But before we start covering a log or cobblestone wall, we need to take into account several nuances.
The first nuance
Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is living, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is capable of absorbing moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.
Poor people buy raw wood in the hope of drying it themselves. It costs less than dry. Building a house from raw wood creates some problems, since during the drying process the wood decreases in size and sometimes warps. As a result, cracks form in the wooden wall.
Pre-purchased material should not be placed on damp ground. It is necessary to place unnecessary boards, beams, and pallets under it. Provide a canopy. Between the logs (beams) you should lay bars 4–5 cm high so that air circulates between them. This way you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.
Ideally, construction of a house will begin in late spring - early summer. Warm air And Sun rays will speed up the drying of the wood. Do not rush to caulk and cover the walls with plasterboard. The building should be open for at least another month to dry out a little. After this time has passed after the walls have been erected, all cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. It could be:
- Dry moss - in Rus', walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
- Tow is a fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
- Jute is a material made from jute wood;
- Sealant is a synthetic foam material.
All these materials do not allow moisture to pass through or accumulate and fill cracks well.
Second nuance
Wood is a flammable material. And dry wood - even more so. And in order to make it more difficult to ignite, it is necessary to treat the masonry inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.
To protect your home from fire, it is important to install the electrical wiring correctly. After all, it is possible in it short circuit. Finally, overheating of contacts under high load on the electrical network can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality and non-flammable. It is possible to lay wires between the wall and plasterboard sheathing. The best option protection of wires in this case - laying them in metal sleeves. We install the electrical wiring at the same time as installing the frame under the drywall.
Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is necessary. After fire retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.
Third nuance
This point is directly related to covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially if poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:
- with loss of moisture from the tree;
- With the landing of logs or beams in place, their compaction among themselves under the influence of the weight of overlying logs and the roofing superstructure.
The landing of the house can be 10–15 cm per floor.
It was mentioned above that wood breathes, either absorbing moisture or losing it. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some tree species are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if plasterboard sheets are firmly attached to such a wall, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, and become deformed. To avoid this, a so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. The essence of it is that it does not move along load-bearing walls Houses. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.
Frame arrangement
It is no coincidence that the frame is called sliding. It is designed in such a way that shrinkage of the external walls does not affect or displace interior lining. You will learn about the intricacies of installing such a frame below.
Metal carcass
The metal frame consists of the following elements:
The following tools are required for work.
- Roulette,
- Level,
- Screwdriver,
- Grinder for cutting profiles,
- Step ladder,
- Pencil or marker.
First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then areas for installing vertical posts are marked. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, so that every second (third) rack falls on the joint of the drywall sheets. The length of the racks should be 10–12 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. It is advisable to choose the thickness of the profiles for the racks at least 0.6 mm.
Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it so that they do not fall between the logs (beams) of the wall, and so that there are no gaps or cracks at the attachment point. From the marking down, use a grinder to cut a groove, the length of which should be 10 cm and the width about 5 mm (slightly larger than the diameter of the screw).
The cut is made in such a way that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cut. The edges of the groove should be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. There should be at least 3-4 marking points, and accordingly, grooves on each rack. All racks and their installation locations must be numbered.
Where the racks are not tightly adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to secure stops made of plywood or pieces of timber at the fastening points so that all the risers are in the same plane. Simple self-tapping screws can be used as stops. Now that the marking is completed, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can begin to install them.
The racks are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed into the upper part of the groove, with an indentation of 1 cm. The self-tapping screw should hold the racks tightly, but you should not tighten them all the way; the washer under the screw head should turn.
Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but inverted towards the first ones. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws on the side. Stiffening ribs are laid across the wall. Thus, the metal frame for covering the walls with plasterboard is ready.
There is another way to install a frame under drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.
Wooden frame
A wooden frame is easier to install, but is not as stable as a metal one. It can only be arranged in a well-maintained house. All bars for wooden frame must be dry and treated, like the walls, with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
Wooden beams are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through eyes are cut into the beams. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the head of the screw is recessed and does not protrude above the beam.
Plasterboard wall covering
When starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to take into account some features of the cladding. Before covering the walls with plasterboard, it is recommended to first make the ceiling. To finish the ceiling, soft hangers and rods should be used.
Do not tightly join the wall and ceiling slabs. It is recommended to leave a gap of several centimeters between them. This gap is closed with a cornice. The drywall below should also not fit tightly to the floor. It is located one to two centimeters higher. This gap will be covered by a baseboard. The plinth and cornice are attached to horizontal surfaces.
When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with sickle tape and hidden under putty. When the walls move, this clearance will prevent cracks from appearing. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. The screw heads are slightly recessed into the sheet. Then they will be sealed with putty.
Application frame structure allows you to perform steam and heat insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.
Conclusion
It is advisable to maintain the constructed house without finishing for a year. During this year, you will have time to put the roof in order, install gas and water supply, install heating, without which there is no point in starting wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has stood, it is recommended to finish the walls on a floating frame, since minor, invisible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.
Before starting finishing, it is recommended to prime the walls covered with plasterboard. Then the putty and other materials will adhere better.
Perhaps readers have their own subtleties and tricks for arranging a frame for gypsum boards; someone will decide that the described methods are not effective and stable enough. We invite readers to speak out on this topic and ask questions.
Tips for choosing plasterboard for wall decoration, advantages and weak sides partitions made of this material, the procedure for performing installation work.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall
Drywall is indispensable in the construction and decoration of premises due to its practicality and versatility. Most notable positive sides materials look like this:
- The technology for working with this material is simple; a beginner only needs two or three object lesson to gain knowledge on handling the stove.
- The sheets allow you to create a perfectly flat plane that does not require finishing putty.
- Plasterboard walls have optimal sound-proofing and heat-insulating characteristics.
- Drywall absorbs and releases moisture well, which allows you to maintain a good indoor microclimate.
- There are several types of drywall, allowing the material to be used in rooms for any purpose - in the living room, bedroom or even in the bathroom.
- The building material is easy to cut, the edge quickly shrinks when adjusting.
- The light weight of the sheets allows one person to carry out the work.
- Using the simplest technologies, you can bend drywall and make any geometric shape from a flat sheet.
- Using sheets, they create a false wall behind which wires, cables or heat insulators are hidden.
- Finishing walls with plasterboard will cost less and will be faster than treating the surface with plaster. Installation is carried out without the formation of dust and dirt.
- After installation, the wall can be decorated in any way - wallpaper, tiles or simply painted.
- Drywall does not ignite and does not emit toxic fumes when heated.
- Drywall cannot resist fungus, even if the sheets are impregnated with an antiseptic.
- In wet rooms, only special types of plasterboard sheets are allowed to be installed. Ordinary material quickly becomes saturated with moisture, cardboard swells and becomes soft.
- The sheets are fragile; after applying a load to the plane, they can be pressed through or crumble.
- Heavy things cannot be mounted on walls made of this material. If necessary, plywood inserts are installed in places where massive objects are suspended.
- After installation, difficult surface modification is required to seal fastener marks and gaps between sheets.
- Working with fragile material requires care and precision. Cracks appear on slanted sheets and the wall becomes deformed.
- The slabs can only be stored in a dry room, otherwise the drywall will become saturated with moisture and lose its shape.
- After installing the sheets, access to communications located between the false wall and the main partition becomes difficult. For repair work the structure will have to be dismantled.
Selecting drywall and components for wall coverings
Plasterboard systems consist of sheets and elements for attaching them to the walls. The choice of components for finishing walls with plasterboard depends on the location of the building and the purpose of installation, and in order not to redo the partition, learn how to choose the right building material.
How to choose plasterboard sheets for walls
A plasterboard sheet consists of a gypsum base covered on both sides with construction cardboard. The composition of the core determines the properties of the material, and cardboard gives it rigidity. To obtain building materials with different properties, certain additives are added to gypsum and cardboard is impregnated with special mixtures.
On the front side the paper performs protective function, it is abrasion resistant. Cardboard also restrains the internal tension of the board filler.
Depending on the characteristics of the additives, the material is divided into the following types:
- Standard drywall sheets. Budget building material, used in dry heated rooms for finishing partitions and erecting new walls. Traditionally painted in a light gray shade. It is not recommended to install it in the kitchen and bathroom; the sheets will swell and begin to crumble.
- Moisture-resistant drywall. It is not afraid of water, it can be mounted in bathrooms, kitchens, and closed loggias. But this does not mean that the factory coating will completely protect the material from water. The technology for installing sheets in the bathroom provides for additional waterproofing of walls and workpieces with water-repellent agents before and after finishing. After additional waterproofing, the canvas can even be installed in showers. The material is easy to distinguish from other types of drywall due to its green color and blue markings.
- Fireproof plasterboard. Dyed in grey colour and sign with a red marker. To increase fire resistance, mineral fibers are added to gypsum, and cardboard is impregnated with special additives. It is distinguished by its ability to withstand high temperatures twice as long as normal. Used for covering walls with plasterboard in rooms with high temperatures and in fire hazardous areas.
- Moisture and fire resistant. The most expensive type of drywall is designed to resist moisture and high temperature. Painted in green color, the inscriptions are written in red. Most often, office premises are decorated with such sheets.
When purchasing goods in a store, use the following tips:
- Always check the storage conditions of the product - it must be kept in a dry, covered area.
- Carefully inspect the condition of the sheet covering; the paper on the boards should not be torn.
- When purchasing a large batch of material, the seller may offer sheets in closed bundles. Check status bottom sheet in it, after repeated loading and unloading operations, they often crumble and are unsuitable for use.
Selection of profiles for the wall frame
Profiles for creating partitions are used when attaching sheets of drywall to a frame. The choice of profiles for the frame depends on the material of the base surface.
If you decide to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands, read the rules for using plasterboard profiles:
- To fix the fabric to wooden walls the base is made only from wooden slats. The bars are nailed horizontally or vertically, according to the planned layout of the sheets on the partition. Buy dry slats, because wood decreases in width over time and provokes the formation of cracks in the canvas. It is recommended to nail a stripe of metal hat profiles over the wooden blocks, which partially compensates for the undesirable consequences of drying out of the wood.
- For fastening the panel to metal or brick walls metal guides of two types UD and CD are used: for guides - PN 50 (65, 75, 100) x 40, for racks - PS 50 (65, 75, 100) x 50.
- When purchasing, evaluate the thickness of the metal. The profile should not bend by hand. If you lift the rail by one end, the profile must withstand the deformation load.
- When purchasing, examine the galvanized condition of the product. Primed profile ends indicate improper storage of the profile. High-quality galvanized slats shine evenly. There are no white spots on them.
- The profiles have a length of up to 4 m, but you can negotiate with the manufacturer to produce longer guides.
Selection of reinforcing tapes for finishing drywall
Reinforcing tapes are designed to strengthen the seam between sheets of drywall and prevent the formation of cracks during operation. Builders use several types of tapes to strengthen and mask cracks, the most popular are lavsan, polypropylene, fiberglass, paper and self-adhesive in the form of a mesh.
The properties of each tape are different, so you need to know in what cases their shortcomings appear:
- Lavsan and polypropylene products stretch, and the entire load falls on a small layer of putty, which often cannot withstand and crumbles. The reliability of a seam with such tapes is low, although the strip itself will remain intact.
- Fiberglass tapes are rigid, do not stretch, but do not differ in strength. After applying loads they tear.
- Mesh tapes also do not reinforce the seam. Despite the greater strength of the mesh, the design feature of the product does not allow protecting the seam from external bending deformations.
Methods for finishing walls with plasterboard sheets
With all the variety of wall decoration with plasterboard sheets, there are only two methods of attaching the material: frame and adhesive. Methods of fixation depend on the complexity of the design and the preferences of the master. They are often used when constructing one wall, for example, when decorative finishing. Vertical walls The niches are secured with self-tapping screws, and the bottom of the niche is placed on glue.
Frame method of installing drywall on walls
The frame mounting option allows you to mask large unevenness in the wall or build a partition in the room. Before starting assembly, ensure that the room normal humidity and set the temperature to no lower than +10 degrees. During the cold season, turn on the heating.
Let's consider the technology of covering walls with plasterboard; installation of any frame plasterboard structure is carried out in a similar way:
- Using a plumb line, determine the curvature of the wall and mark on the floor the position of the lower frame profiles on minimum distance from the base wall.
- Transfer the location marks of the frame profiles to the ceiling and walls, perpendicular to the base surface.
- Mark the position of the horizontal support rails on the base wall. Place the upper guide 15 cm from the ceiling, the lower one 15 cm from the floor.
- Mark on the floor the position of the vertical (rack) profiles, which are placed in increments of 600 mm; take measurements between the axes of the racks. It is allowed to reduce the gaps to 300-400 mm. The gap between the slats is determined by the width of the slabs, equal to 120 mm. The seams between the panels should run in the middle of the batten.
- Measure the width of the room where the markings are made, and cut the profiles from blanks to size. Vertical racks For ease of assembly, cut the frame 1 cm less than the height of the side wall.
- Apply sealing tape to the guide profiles or apply silicate sealant.
- Fix the profiles according to the markings to the floor, ceiling and side walls with dowels, at least 3 pcs. per 1 profile, with a step of 1 m between them.
- Install the rack profiles into the ceiling and floor guides according to the markings and connect using short self-tapping screws or the “notch-and-bend” method. During construction work check the verticality of the racks with a plumb line. Also check that the edges of the drywall boards fit the vertical slats of the frame.
- Attach the guides to the base wall according to the markings so that their joining surfaces are located in the same vertical plane with the already fixed ceiling and floor profiles. To control the position of profiles in the vertical plane, use a plumb line.
- Connect vertical profiles and horizontal short self-tapping screws.
- Route electrical wires, cables and other wiring behind the profiles. Lead the ends of the wires to the locations of sockets and switches.
- Place parts of pipelines that cross the partition in special sleeves.
- Attach wooden or plywood sheets to the frame, in places where heavy equipment is suspended.
- Before attaching drywall to the wall, install heat and sound insulation sheets into the frame cells.
- When installing the slabs, place them so that the edges run along the center of the vertical profile.
- Whole sheets are mounted first.
- Screws are screwed in increments of 10-15 cm along the edges of the sheet and 20-25 cm in the middle.
- The fastener is screwed until the head sinks 1 mm into the sheet. For fastening, special self-tapping screws made of special steel are used; they are black. Screw in the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the surface of the sheet.
- Fasteners are placed no closer than 10 cm from the corners of the sheets to prevent chipping.
- Make openings in the panels for electrical fittings. Install electrical boxes, sockets, switches in special sleeves for plasterboard structures.
- Seal seams at temperatures of +10 degrees and above.
- Use putty that is designed for use on drywall.
- Check for chamfers on the edges of the sheets, which increases the reliability of the seam. If you don't have one, make it sharp knife at an angle of 22.5 degrees (at 2/3 of the sheet thickness).
- Clean the joints of the sheets from dust with a damp cloth.
- Fill the gap with diluted putty and give it time to dry. Apply a thin coating of putty to the joint and immediately cover with reinforced tape. Make sure that the seam is exactly in the middle of the tape.
- Remove excess solution.
- Wait until this layer dries, apply the final layer of mortar and carefully seal the joint.
Adhesive method of attaching plasterboard sheets to walls
This method involves attaching sheets with glue. This way they fix construction sheets, if the non-flatness of the base wall is 4-7 mm. Frameless method You can finish walls up to 3 m high.
Before making a plasterboard wall, find a ready-made structure from friends and carefully study its structure for better perception buildings. Before installation begins, complete all wet work (screed, plaster) so that the material does not swell from excess moisture and did not deform before the glue hardened.
Perform the work in the following sequence:
- Remove dust and dirt from the wall.
- Prime the wall with a product that matches the partition material. You can also use the universal primer "Aquastop". It is sold in concentrated form and is diluted before use according to the instructions.
- The gluing technology depends on the condition of the partition. On quality surfaces(with a non-flatness of 4-7 mm) glue is applied thin layer using a notched spatula. For fixation, use Perfilix glue or Fugenfüller gypsum putty.
- If the unevenness of the wall reaches 20 mm, then splashes from the drywall are applied to the drywall. gypsum mixture“Fugenfüller”, which are placed in increments of 300 mm. The surfaces of the blotches are processed in one plane. After leveling the surface, the putty is smeared with glue and the sheets are pressed to it.
- If the unevenness of the partition is more than 20 mm, the gluing plane is made using pieces of plasterboard 100 mm wide. The strips are glued on top of each other and processed in one plane. After checking the verticality of the resulting surface, drywall is glued to it.
- After installing the sheets, check for 10 mm gaps at the plasterboard-ceiling and plasterboard-floor joints, which are left for air access to the glued surface.
- The last stage is to seal the gaps between the sheets with putty. The technology is discussed in the previous section.
If you follow our recommendations, decorating the walls with your own hands will not take much time. The partition will be perfectly flat, and the only drawback will be the loss of a small area inside the room.
High quality and beautiful interior- the main purpose of repair. In recent decades, drywall has become a popular material used to create smooth walls and hem the ceiling. Finishing of premises with sheets of plasterboard is also used in cases where the work is carried out without experience. Finishing gypsum plasterboard walls is popular for do-it-yourself repairs.
The technology of working with gypsum boards involves several sequential processes. Step by step procedure consists of the following steps:
- Surface marking;
- Tool preparation;
- Frame installation;
- Installation of gypsum boards;
- Rough and finishing.
Each stage involves compliance with norms and rules. High-quality repair is not possible if non-compliance occurs in a particular situation.
GKL walls are popular all over the world and are increasingly used in construction and renovation
The first stage step-by-step repair using gypsum plasterboard, the room is marked out and calculated required quantity material. To do this, take measurements of the finishing area and depict it schematically.
The gypsum board is attached to the base and to the profile frame. In cases where differences along the wall do not exceed 20 millimeters, the unevenness is leveled with starting putty. With its help, differences of 1-2 centimeters are eliminated, saving on the installation of structures.
In cases where the differences are significant and exceed 2 centimeters, it is impossible to do without installing a profile. Although such designs reduce the total area of the room, they save time and materials for leveling the wall. When repairs are carried out by inexperienced craftsmen, the installation of structures is guaranteed to ensure smooth walls without drops.
Having chosen the method of finishing the walls, they begin preparatory work.
Choosing the type of drywall
GCRs have several types and areas of purpose. When choosing sheets of plasterboard, take into account in which room the walls are being finished.
Mounting the frame along the wall ensures proper alignment of the walls If we talk about the thickness of the sheets, then standard sheets of 12.5 millimeters are suitable for wall decoration. In the same cases when it comes to finishing the ceiling or creating figured arches and niches, then in such cases builders recommend using thinner types.
Plasterboard sheets differ in thickness and properties. If the work is carried out in a standard dry room with a normal level of humidity, the usual type of gypsum plasterboard is suitable here. In cases where the room is characterized by changes in humidity, it is recommended to use a moisture-resistant type of plasterboard. Such sheets are several times more resistant to increased levels of moisture. Another type of gypsum board is fire-resistant sheets that can withstand contact with open fire. This type of gypsum board is rarely used in everyday life due to its high cost and the lack of places where gypsum board can come into contact with high temperatures.
Read also:– stages of work with photos and videos
Preparing the tool and getting started
To work with plasterboard, you need an extensive list of tools. Professional installers use special expensive tools such as gas guns, jigsaws, sheet lifters and other devices. In cases where installation is carried out manually, it is not worth purchasing the entire set. If we briefly go through the main points, the list will look like this:
- Drill or hammer drill;
- Metal scissors;
- Standard set of building level, tape measures, screwdrivers, spatula and other small tools;
- Construction knife and saw for cutting plasterboard;
- Screwdriver;
- Tool for processing sheet edges.
If the differences are insignificant, then the sheets are glued to the wall Next, they begin to prepare the base for finishing. Even when gypsum board is glued to the frame, it is recommended to clean the base from the old layers, otherwise the old finish will begin to crumble and create problems in the future. The surface should be cleaned of dust and debris; it is recommended to prime the walls.
Having prepared the base, we begin to mark the wall. Convenient marking laser level. But such an expensive tool is not always available. Having completed the marking. moving on.
What to do if you decide to attach the gypsum board directly to the base
If the wall has no drops, then the sheets are attached to a base without a frame. The wall is covered with primer, the instructions for use of which require complete drying within 12-24 hours. Fix the gypsum boards in a dry room without drafts or changes in humidity. Otherwise, this will lead to the absorption of different amounts of moisture into the sheets and inconvenience of joining due to differences in thickness.
Sometimes wall preparation requires leveling with putty. This is not difficult to do, although it requires some skill. After leveling the walls, the base is covered with soil again. A material with antifungal components is selected, as described in the instructions for use. This is due to the fact that mold and mildew actively develop in a humid environment, and plasterboard is able to absorb moisture from the air.
Edge processing is an important component The sheets are attached to special glue for gypsum boards. If putty has not been carried out, and the differences do not exceed 0.5 centimeters, apply glue in small tubercles along vertical strips. The application instructions state that the first sheets are not immediately pressed against the wall, since unexpected bumps will not allow the sheets to be correctly aligned.
If the difference is more than 4-5 millimeters, then the sizing mixture is applied in large cakes to the sheet at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. The instructions say that it is much easier to attach gypsum boards in this way, since the mixture will be crushed on the back surface of the sheet and distributed evenly.
Frame fastening method
In cases where sheets are attached to a profile, the process is more complicated. Make additional markings on the floor and ceiling in order to evenly attach the guides. After this, a rack profile of the required length is cut under the guides. Having inserted the profile into the guides, the profile is attached at a distance of 60 centimeters across the racks to give rigidity to the frame.
Puttying the joints ensures that there are no gaps between the sheets When the frame is assembled, begin cutting the gypsum board. Do this carefully and remember that gypsum is a fragile material. Cutting out required length, begin installation. The gypsum board is attached using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of 30-40 cm along the sheet. Join the drywall so that the joint is located in the center of the profile.
Having completed the installation of sheets, process the joints using reinforced tape and putties. It is recommended to cover the gypsum board with a layer of primer. After this it is carried out finishing putty surfaces and preparation for painting or wallpapering.
- it's simple and inexpensive solution. Plus, you can do it yourself.
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