Siding step by step instructions. Covering a house with siding: selection and calculation of materials, work technology, errors, nuances

How to significantly increase all the practical characteristics of a house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Regular siding will help achieve these goals. Step-by-step instructions for dummies will tell you in detail about all the types of this building façade cladding and how to properly install siding with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

Any construction and renovation process begins with preparation the necessary tool and building materials. What does siding installation technology require?

Regardless of the type of siding, the craftsman will definitely need power tools such as a portable circular saw and a screwdriver.

Among the usual repair tools at hand, the following will be useful:

Level;
Roulette;
Hammer;
Hacksaw for metal;
Cutter knife;
Awl;
Screwdriver;
Pliers.

Siding installation involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is advisable to protect your eyes and hands from small particles. To do this, builders advise wearing safety glasses and construction gloves.

Which siding is better, metal or vinyl?

Depending on the material from which the house siding elements are made, there are several most popular types of siding: wood (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. Which siding is better?

Let's analyze each type from the customer's point of view (i.e., by external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the cost of siding and consumables etc.).

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride; installation of vinyl siding does not require virtually any preparatory work. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without much effort, since all the panels are made according to a clear geometry.

Among the positive performance characteristics it is worth mentioning:

Environmental safety;
High fire safety;
Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).

Negative indicators of vinyl siding include:

Low noise and heat insulation;
Inability to create bright contrasting colors;
It will not be possible to restore a color worn out by time;
After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant treatment and careful care;
The manufacturer provides a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only on condition correct installation designs.

Metal siding is panels made of galvanized steel with additional coating various dyes.

What has:

Excellent resistance to fire and fungal attack;
Not necessary special care for siding (it is enough to periodically wash with water);
Metal panels are most convenient for implementing a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options + decorative coatings;
Special preparation before installation original surface not be carried out;
Installation is easy at any ambient temperature;
There is no need to adjust parts with a hacksaw.

The disadvantages buyers include:

A complete lack of sound and heat insulation, which means that installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
The service life is up to 50 years, also with proper installation.

Features of installation of block house siding are even more complex:

Here, additional pre-treatment of the wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnishes and dyes is necessary;

The most basic surface of the building needs to be cleaned;

Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;

Constant treatment of the siding surface is required after installation;

Due to the considerable weight of the wood, the structure weighs down the walls of the house;
Extremely high fire hazard;
Threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
Possibility of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. brown siding with halftone shades.

Taking into account all the points described above, experts conclude that the duration of using siding under a log depends 100% on pre- and post-treatment/care.

But among the especially valuable characteristics are high heat and sound insulation properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material.

By analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.

Sheathing installation work

Siding always begins with the installation of siding sheathing. What is siding sheathing and why is it needed? The sheathing for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides onto which the siding fence is attached.

Frame horizontal and vertical slats for sheathing can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD profile for plasterboard or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the sheathing slats does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, rotting, etc.).
Why you need lathing for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to “correct” the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small protrusions and surface unevenness. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the ventilation created.
If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the sheathing is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: installation of metal siding with horizontal panels requires vertical sheathing.
Using a level, horizontal and vertical markings are made. From the drawn guides, after 30-40 mm, the frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of brick, shell) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Additional sheathing slats are installed under gutters, lamps and other practical elements.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. Thermal insulation in slabs (or in roll form) is laid on the mounted sheathing with an overlap of 10 cm. Insulation is complemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of the double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another sheathing is installed (parallel to the slats of the first sheathing), on which the outer siding under a log, made of vinyl, metal or other material will be attached.

It is imperative to leave space between the hydro/thermal insulation pad in the sheathing and the wall of the house. This air gap will become an effective aid in implementing the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of a house, which will greatly increase its performance characteristics.

Installation of guide elements

Correct installation of house façade cladding always begins with attaching the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But the final result depends entirely on how accurately this strip is attached: whether you will get beautiful siding or not at all.

What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which you plan to install vinyl siding, measure a distance equal to the thickness of the siding (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven into a point along the measured distance from one edge of the wall and a level is used to determine the location for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.

Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for installing deck siding. After several strips of siding are attached along the frame sheathing, it is worth checking again with a level for the clarity of the guide to eliminate errors.

Installation of external corner profiles

The exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the basement, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For installation of basement siding, a material of a more expressive format and often of contrasting color is selected.

For example, beige siding for the plinth will look quite impressive under gray siding for the facade of the walls. Corner elements that must be used for installation of basement siding are also used for finishing the corners of windows and doors.

Manufacturers have developed several different shapes for external corner profiles:

The J-profile is used to secure end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), and also as a finishing strip. It is not recommended to use this type of profile under the starting bar, since due to its shape (in the form of the Latin letter J), water can accumulate in the profile.
The H-profile is designed for fastening plates together on a flat section of walls.
The F-profile covers the slopes.

It is necessary to leave a gap of 6 mm between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile - this takes into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. This is exactly the installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles

The procedure for installing internal corner profiles is practically no different from installing external corners:

Use J-profile;
A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.

If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then when installing alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.

There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with increasing/decreasing air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. Self-tapping screws are used for this.

If you screw a self-tapping screw into the outermost oval hole of a vertical strip not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform upward, but only to the sides and downwards.

Installation of the first panel

As mentioned above, the first panel and first row are a guide to all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all subsequent elements will rise to the top of the wall.

Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be paid to the starting bar. How to properly secure the starting bar is already described above. Once the starting strip is secured, you can proceed to installing the first siding panel.

Practical builders have identified a number of tricks with which you can achieve High Quality and wear resistance of installation of siding panels:

Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fastening elements (nails, screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, since this will avoid damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
The advice regarding the tightness of the screw heads to the panel surface has a similar rationale: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can fit freely.
At the corners, the fastening of the planks is not done end-to-end, since these structural parts of the house have their own elements (corner planks).

Installing vinyl siding on the wall of a house is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials/tools on hand.

In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, and trims. These design elements will help you accomplish high-quality installation siding finishes in all difficult places home (corners, window frames, doorways, under a roof, etc.).

From the bottom level of the house from the far left corner we begin to erect the siding sheathing:

The starting strip is attached;

The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip using the bottom lock;

The higher rows are secured with the lock of the lower row;

The design is completed by a finishing strip.

Roof installation

The scheme for performing the work is no different from those described above.:

Installation of sheathing;
Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
The first panel of siding is laid into this starting strip;
The siding parts are joined with an overlap of 2 cm. The distance between the fastening strips must be at least 0.5 cm.

Installation of the pediment

The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the structure; its appearance catches the eye from afar. Naturally, the design of all installation siding work should be completed with a similar finishing of the pediment.

Conveniently, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with a regular carpenter’s knife. The accuracy of the entire structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.

Lathing must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one installation direction to another is possible using an edging profile.
Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing strip. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of panel.

How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the pediment. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it and panels should begin to be attached to them in both directions.

Installation of panels

Externally, corrugated siding can be positioned both vertically and horizontally along a wall or other surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting strip along the lock. You should hear a click, which means the bar is installed correctly.

Further rows of panels are erected upward, fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing, taking into account the above construction technology, and the structure is completed by a finishing strip, behind which the outermost panel is placed, bending it slightly.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Any person can carry out all the work on finishing the facade of a house with siding panels. The cost of self-installation work, of course, is several times lower than paying hired craftsmen. If you follow all the recommendations thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a full sense of pride and joy.

When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on the following rule: when attaching the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the head of the screw and the wall.
This is mandatory, because When temperature changes, the vinyl material of the dock siding panels tends to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or become significantly deformed.
It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be carried out only in the summer (i.e., during the warm season). After all, the polyvinyl chloride material from which vinyl siding panels are made has sufficient linear expansion.

You should pay particular attention to the installation instructions, since even minor deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.

Rules for installing metal siding

Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, which means a significant weight of the material. This means that the sheathing for them must be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the craftsmen’s work and the cost of building materials for the sheathing.
Metal siding m2 at Russian manufacturer prices is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.

Conclusion: it is impossible to clearly determine the good and bad types of siding decoration for the facade of a house, because it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dressing your house in a chic dress from Siding Design is profitable, durable and beautiful!

DIY vinyl siding installation

Siding is a building material that allows you to quickly low cost labor and money to give a private home an attractive appearance. Siding is most often used to renovate old, but still quite good buildings, see fig. Installation of siding is technologically very simple, does not require careful preparation of the underlying surface, complex working skills and special tool.

At the same time, the cost of cladding work by a hired team is 50-60% of the cost of the material, which for an average-sized house will be at least 12,000 rubles. savings in case of independent execution. The work process itself for a person who knows how to make something, but who is taking on siding for the first time, takes 5-12 working days.

In addition, finishing a house with siding in itself significantly insulates it. And it can (and is recommended) be combined with cladding work. At the same time, it is significantly simplified and cheaper without compromising efficiency. When installing siding yourself with simultaneous insulation, the total cost of work drops by at least half, fuel consumption for heating in winter is reduced by 25-35% in mid-latitudes, and electricity consumption for air conditioning in summer is reduced by 15-20%. Raise your last year’s expenses for these budget items, estimate the savings in money - you probably won’t have to give more compelling arguments in favor of upgrading your home with siding yourself.

Where did he come from?

Siding in translation means...those. Yes, yes, those same seasoned wooden boards, cut to size and planed to a profile, laid over the sheathed surface or frame in a herringbone pattern. Initially, overlapping planking was used in shipbuilding; Pleasure fofana boats made using this technology can still be found in some places.

It was either the Vikings or our Pomors who came up with the idea of sheathing, but now you can’t tell. Both required strong, lightweight, durable vessels that did not require frequent repairs, suitable for navigation among ice. In the powers whose fleets sailed to low latitudes, sheathing of ships did not take root, and was then completely forgotten - it is extremely prone to fouling.

The northern peoples soon, for the sake of saving wood, which was scarce beyond the Arctic Circle, and for greater strength and durability of buildings, began to sheathe houses with planks. This made it possible to build faster in new places, so plank buildings were especially popular among Russian pioneers. The Anglo-Saxons met them in Canada and Alaska, which was then a Russian possession. In general, there were many of our compatriots living in America; on the map south to San Francisco and east to Detroit there are names like Russian Fort, Russian Point, etc.

Practical and highly engineered Americans fell in love with siding, and clapboard private houses became widespread there, although the cowboys from the Wild West themselves hardly suspected that the buildings in their settlements were built using Russian technology. Nowadays, siding is made from modern structural materials; the parts are connected with snap locks. This freed the siding from the only drawback of its ancestor - the obligatory caulking of the seams, which had to be replaced annually.

Why this article?

Each batch of siding panels (boards) and shaped fastening elements for them - add-ons - must be accompanied by detailed instructions for assembling the coating. Sellers, as a rule, give a free copy upon purchase, and there is plenty of material on this topic on the Internet.

But the instructions cannot provide for everything; there are always nuances, neglect of which can complicate the work and deteriorate its quality, although siding, in general, is very tolerant of minor deviations from installation technology. On the other hand, these minor deviations can, depending on specific conditions, be allowed deliberately for the sake of simplifying and reducing the cost of work. It is these subtleties that we will discuss further.

How is siding applied?

There are a lot of materials for assembling siding with your own hands, but somehow the materials recommended by leading manufacturers are lost in them. typical diagram casing, see fig. on right:

Superimposed on the wall.
The first one (distance strips) is installed under the insulation.
Insulation is applied in two layers.
A second sheathing is mounted on top of it.
Siding is being installed.

Let’s say right away that almost no one ever does this, it’s too complicated and expensive. Why is it recommended? Based on the worst case scenario - insulation with mineral wool. To prevent the outside from immediately getting wet, falling asleep and no longer insulating anything, ventilation gaps are needed on both sides of the insulation layer, and its layers must be applied with the slabs moving.

Insulation under siding is most often made of polystyrene foam. Moreover, since it is sufficiently protected from bad weather and the sun by the sheathing itself and is not loaded with plaster, you can use not the expensive EPS, but the cheapest packaging one. The design of the simplified cladding discussed below involves insulation with it.

Video: about siding using the example of an old house

Preparation for sheathing

Complex and/or time-consuming work is not required to prepare for siding. An external inspection of the building and several measurements are enough, which will take no more than half a day. You may have to “squeeze” the swellings with the butt masonry mortar, drive in protruding nails and eliminate other small protrusions over 6 mm in height.

Inspection

During the inspection of the house, first of all, using a long, even strip and a cord/tape measure, the general unevenness of planes and lines is determined: walls, plinth pedestal, corners, eaves balks, roof overhangs, pediment undersides, window openings. It should not exceed 12 mm over the entire plane/line or 6 mm locally.

That is, if, for example, the wall turns out to be not a rectangle, but a rhombus or trapezoid, then the difference in its diagonals should not exceed 12 mm. And the same difference in diagonals for window/door openings should be no more than 6 mm. The general hump or depression of the wall or the deflection of the pediment/cornice/basement should also be no more than 12 mm, etc. Installation of siding is allowed on buildings that are slightly tilted, but generally retain their rectangularity.

Next, check with a level and plumb line the perpendicularity/horizontalness of the lines and angles relative to the base and the ground surface. The overall slope of the building due to subsidence should not be more than 25 mm on any side. As a rule, such a tilt reveals itself at the previous stage of the audit as unacceptable deflections/subsidence. If so, you don’t have to think about siding for now - the building is at least pre-emergency, it needs major renovation. Installed sheathing anyway, it will soon begin to warp and swell.

Choice of lathing

The lathing for siding can be made of one- and two-level metal from CD profiles (see figure) or special and one-two-level wooden, from slats from 40x40 to 50x80 mm. In the latter case, the sheathing tree must be impregnated with insecticides and fungicides. Both lathings can be either linear or lattice; single-level lattice - mortise. Rectangular sheathing strips are placed on the wall with the narrow side.

The type of sheathing is selected based on the results of a building inspection:

General unevenness up to 3 mm – any one-level; Linear is better, it is simpler and cheaper.
The same, up to 6 mm - single-level wooden from 50x80 beams or two-level metal from C-profiles.
The same, up to 12 mm - two-level wooden with alignment of the outer beams with plywood pads at the joints or special metal, with adjustment strips.

Next, you should choose the design of the sheathing: with horizontal or vertical logs. The first will go under vertical siding (see below), and the second will go under horizontal siding. If the sheathing is two-level, then we are talking about external joists on which the boards will be hung.

It must be said that vertical siding is not at all the same boards installed upright. Vertical siding boards are a special type of product; they are more expensive than ordinary ones. Siding manufacturers recommend sheathing the walls of a building horizontally and the gables vertically, and lathing accordingly.

These recommendations are based on considerations of increased wind resistance of the sheathing. There is no place to go into the intricacies of the aerodynamics of buildings here; suffice it to say that the combined cladding is designed for an average annual wind speed of over 10 m/s. However, in the Russian Federation there are almost no places with such winds, only in some places on the outskirts the average annual wind speed exceeds 5 m/s. Therefore, our finishers often make horizontal cladding on vertical joists throughout the entire outer area of the building. This simplifies and reduces the cost of work.

About thermal bridges

The reader may have a question: if the sheathing is metal, then what is the point of insulation? The metal frame will let the cold into the wall in addition to any foam.

It will not allow entry if spacers made of paronite or basalt cardboard are placed under the profiles in the places where they are attached to the wall or under the heels of the adjusting strips; By the way, they are very convenient for adjusting the evenness of the lags. But the self-tapping screw does not form a thermal bridge; it sits not directly in the wall, but in a plastic dowel.

About self-tapping screws

To attach the sheathing, you need 4-6 mm self-tapping screws, extending into the wall at least 60 mm. Phosphated (black) ones are better, they are cheaper and stronger, and rust does not appear under the skin. The fastening pitch is 350-500 mm, depending on the windiness of the place.

The sheathing parts are attached to the wooden sheathing with 3 mm self-tapping screws with a head-press washer with a diameter of 8 mm. To attach to a wooden sheathing you need “bugs” 22-24 mm long, and to a metal sheathing you need “flea beads” 6-10 mm long. The fastening pitch and other subtleties - see below, in the installation section.

About the old casing

old wood paneling can be left under the siding if it is not warped or rotten. This will immediately give a fairly flat underlying surface. If the sheathing is uncovered, it’s okay; we consider the protruding edges of the boards to be flat. You just need to adjust the fastening pitch so that the screws fit on the edges of the old boards.

About horizontal horizontal

Horizontal siding is easily attached to a vertical sheathing by one person, and the accuracy of installing the joists is not of decisive importance here: you will have to have some kind of fastening groove on the joist, but it is not necessary to strictly maintain the spacing of the boards. To attach the same panels to horizontal joists, two people need to install them according to a template, and the boards will have to be fastened with an assistant. In addition, the horizontal sheathing under the horizontal cladding must be two-level - without ventilation, the walls will become damp under the cladding. But the “horizontal to horizontal” skin can withstand gusts of wind up to hurricane force. Therefore, if you live in a place where there is something like the Novorossiysk forest, it is better to mount it this way.

Siding selection

Material

Siding is made of plastic (PVC, polyisopropylene), metal (galvanized steel, aluminum) and natural wood. The latter is unstable in the open air, despite any impregnation, so it is used either for special requirements to design and prestige (bottom left in the figure at the beginning), or in the interior (in the same place, bottom center). Aluminum siding is very impressive, but expensive, requires special tools and highly skilled workers, so it is not considered further.

Vinyl siding is the cheapest and most common, top left in Fig. at the beginning. Its surface can imitate not only the color, but also the texture of the sample material (wood, stone, etc.). Working with it is not much more difficult than with cardboard. PVC siding is durable enough for all regions of the country, except for the highlands and the Far North, where there are often strong winds and frosts. In these places, you need to take propylene from plastic, it is 10-15% more expensive.

However, in southern areas, and in the same mountains, plastic siding exhibits an unpleasant property: 3-7 years after installation, without losing strength, it takes on a somewhat sloppy appearance. The reason is microcracks formed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and dust that accumulates in them. Washing doesn't do any good; It can be restored using special silicone compounds for renewing plastic car parts. But they are expensive, and the surface area of a house is not that of a bumper or spoiler; replacing the trim turns out to be much cheaper.

Metal siding (top center in the picture at the beginning) is completely insensitive to UV. Its painting, controlled by computers, gives a non-repeating color. Metal siding “under a log” (block house) can be distinguished from real perfectly debarked logs only by scratching. Which, by the way, is very difficult - the paint is incredibly durable.

Metal siding costs about the same as plastic siding, but it has some disadvantages:

Requires high evenness of the sheathing: if a plastic board 2.4 m long can be bent in the middle to a break of 3-4 inches, then a metal board breaks already at a deflection of an inch. And the permissible installation deflection is no more than 1/3 of the breaking one, and even that should be avoided.
Not as durable as PVC and especially propylene. It gets crushed by a good blow from the fist or head of a slipping person.
Does not allow receiving small, e.g. wood, texture.
The labor intensity of work on it is much higher.

The last point requires some clarification. You cannot cut metal siding with a grinder; heat and vibration far away from the cut will damage the protective coating. Metal scissors distort the edges of the profile, which is not always possible to hide under the extensions, especially for a novice craftsman. And the extensions also need to be cut, but they are always in sight. All that remains is either a hacksaw for metal with fine teeth, but when covering you have to make hundreds of cuts. Or - a special guillotine machine with a set of profile knives, very expensive.

Both plastic and metal siding are available for cladding both walls and plinths. Basement siding is shorter (panels up to 1.165 m long versus 6 m), wider (440 mm) and thicker (20 mm). It is more expensive, but stronger, looks very impressive, perfectly imitating natural stone, therefore, it is successfully used for cladding not only socles, but also the entire external surface of buildings (top right in the figure at the beginning). Working methods and additions for basement siding are different than for regular siding, see below.

Based on the above, we can give the following recommendations for siding cladding of private houses:

IN middle lane, approximately between the St. Petersburg-Ekaterinburg and Voronezh-Volgograd lines, and in the south of Siberia - any, based on available funds. The cheapest and easiest to work with is vinyl.
In the Southern Federal District, on Far East south of Khabarovsk-Komsomolsk-on-Amur and in Kamchatka north to Parapolsky Dol - metal siding or frost-resistant (-60/+60) vinyl.
In the northern regions - plastic propylene, frost-resistant PVC for strong local winds, or metal if the weather is mostly calm.

To point 2. There is a lot of UV in Primorye in clear weather; Vladivostok lies on the same latitude as Sochi. But in summer the weather is not always clear there - the monsoon blows and brings rain. Therefore, for 10 years or more you can get by with plastic.

About combined cladding

Covering the entire house with basement siding will cost a pretty penny - it is two or three times more expensive than usual. On the other hand, many private houses are built with pilasters. To trace all these corners - an excessive amount of ordinary siding will be wasted. In this case, it would be best to allocate 10-12% for cladding. more money, and sheathe the house using a combined method: the planes are with ordinary boards, and the pilasters are with plinth panels; they are precisely adapted to work in small areas. The result can be even more elegant than with a continuous plinth paneling (bottom right in the picture at the beginning), but is not much more expensive than conventional paneling.

About the panel profile

As for the profile of the panels, which determines the appearance of the cladding, it can be anything you choose, see fig.

In terms of operational parameters, all profiles are approximately equivalent. You just need to meet three conditions:

Within one surface (wall, pediment), the cladding should be carried out with only one profile. You cannot place panels of different types next to each other for the sake of beauty.
Use only accessories that are complete with panels, purchased together with them from the same batch.
Adjacent surfaces, the ends of the panels of which are included in one extension ( corner walls etc.), also sheathed with the same profile.

Video: seller’s opinion on choosing siding

Material calculation

Step 1

Now you need to calculate the required amount of material. First, determine the size of the sheathed area. There are no problems with walls, windows and doors. The pediment is another matter. Proprietary methods recommend calculating its area using Heron’s formula, but it requires three measurements, one having to be taken from a ladder, and two by climbing on the roof with a tape measure. And if the house has an attic, a roof with kinks, and even an unequal one (for the sake of a larger living space, people resort to such tricks), then the error of an experienced craftsman may exceed the permissible one, or a good share of the material will have to be “wasted” in advance.

In fact, it is better to take measurements with a long cord and a plumb line, see fig. The areas of a triangle and trapezoid are calculated using simple school formulas, and required lengths easy to accurately remove at the bottom by dropping the cord and plumb line. You can make precise marks on the cords by climbing the stairs just once. A mark on the pediment is needed in case you have to re-measure. It is applied with chalk.

Then the number of sheathing panels is calculated. The area of one panel is calculated by subtracting the width of the fastening strip and the lock tooth from its width. For the case shown in Fig. on the right, it will be 229 mm, and the area of one board 4.8 m long is 1.1 sq. m. For trimmings experienced craftsmen they provide an area reserve of 3-5% (siding in this regard is very economical); for beginners it is better to take it at 5-7%.

The next stage is calculating the quantity and nomenclature of additional items. There is no single methodology for all occasions, because... all houses are different. Therefore, a beginner must definitely draw a diagram of the cladding of all surfaces and, working with it, select the additions. At the same time, you can more accurately calculate required quantity panels.

Note: Siding panels are available in lengths from 1.2 to 6 m. It is advisable to sheathe a long wall so that it covers a whole number of boards along the length. In extreme cases - 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc. boards Based on this, a sheathing scheme is built.

Step 2

The next step is to calculate the nomenclature and number of additional elements. There are many dozens of their varieties on sale, but the vast majority of them are required for buildings of complex architectural forms. For ordinary houses, you can almost always get by with the following, see figure:

cladding panels (boards);
CD profile or timber for sheathing;
platband (about them, see below, about windows);
complex angles, external and internal, there are simple angles, but it is almost never possible to get by with them;
soffit - panel with ventilation holes for covering cornices;
starting profile;
finishing profile, very often replaced by a J-profile, see point 10;
H-molding is a profile for connecting cladding panels if two or more panels need to be laid along the length of the wall.
wall ebb (aquilon);
J-profile, also known as J-channel, is a universal clamping element.

The trim strip is replaced with J-profile if the last highest trim panel has to be cut 1/4 or so of the width. In this case, the J-profile holds it better than the standard finish. If the topmost board comes out whole or cut off by about half, then a standard finishing strip is needed. These recommendations are valid for the most popular double siding, shiplap and herringbone.

For single siding, the finish is replaced with a J-profile if the last board is cut more than halfway. For triple and multiple widths, you should follow this scheme:

If the longitudinal cut falls on the low (closest to the wall) part of the tooth, leave the standard finish.
If you have to cut closer to the top of the tooth, replace it with a J-profile.

Errors and negligence

The following is unacceptable when calculating extras:

Replace the starting profile with a J-bar. It does not fix, but only holds the panel. And since a whole number of boards in width along the height of the walls are rarely laid, a standard finishing strip is not always installed. And it turns out that the casing is not latched at the top and bottom; This one is blown away by a wind of 7-12 m/s.
Replace the H-molding with two J-profiles, with their backs facing each other. Water, dust, and dirt will definitely penetrate into the gap between them.
Save on aquilon if the house is built overhanging the base, as in Fig. higher. After covering, the standard teardropper stops working.

Note: It is also unacceptable for sanitary reasons to replace the starting profile with a J-bar - it then becomes a trough in which water stagnates.

About joining boards

If there is a whole number of boards along the length of the wall, they are joined with H-moldings (on the left in the figure), and if there is a half-integer number, they are joined apart (also on the right). The latter method is in some cases more aesthetically pleasing, but overall much worse. Firstly, the wind resistance of the skin decreases, and secondly, moisture inevitably penetrates through the cracks under the skin. And from there she has nowhere to go except into the wall.

Let's start covering: technology and flaws

Working with siding is technologically very simple, but requires mandatory adherence to three rules, see figure:

do not overtighten the locks and fasteners, leave a gap of about 1 mm;
fasten the boards by driving hardware in the middle installation windows, and not from the edge;
Do not push the sheathing elements into the extensions closely, leave a gap of 5-7 mm.

These conditions are dictated by the thermal expansion of the panels, which is up to 12 mm along the length of the board and up to 1 mm along its width. Without observing them, the sheathing will inevitably swell or break the fasteners with the extensions.

Note: the maximum step for fastening panels is 1.2 m, and for extensions – 0.6 m. But one piece of any length must have at least 3 fastening points, along the edges and in the middle. There is no need to carefully maintain the step, as long as the fasteners fit in the middle of the joist.

The actual laying of the panels is carried out in the following sequence:

We remove gutters, window and door frames;
we make the sheathing, the outermost logs should be exactly at the corners;
Use a hose level to mark the line for installing the starting profile; it should be no lower than 12 mm from the uppermost corner of the base;
install external corners;
put the aquilon;
set the starting profile;
insert the board into the grooves of the corners with the lock facing down and push it into the start until it clicks;
check the play vertically and sideways;
we attach the board to the joists at the mounting edge;
We place the remaining boards in the same way from bottom to top, snapping each one into the previous one and fastening it to the joists;
insert the last board into the penultimate one WITHOUT FIXING, mark its desired height and cut it to the width;
reapply the last board WITHOUT FIXING, outline its edge along the joists;
we install the finishing or J-profile, moving its back upward from the marks by 6 mm;
slightly bending, insert the edges of the last board into the corners, its cut edge into the finish or J-profile, and push up until the lock snaps into place.

Note: if windows and doors will also be framed with siding, then first of all they need to be sorted out, leveling the slopes and frames exactly to rectangularity. But it’s best to do without this, see below.

About the “soft start”

Sometimes, for the sake of aesthetics, starting profiles are first placed at the beginning of the cladding, and the mounting surfaces of the corners are trimmed along them, as shown in Fig. bottom right. But such a technique, generally speaking, does not justify itself. The edges of the corners are almost invisible both at the top and bottom of the wall, and their unsupported tips soon begin to warp and are now conspicuous.

About insulation

Insulation under the siding is elementary simple: after installing the dowels for the gutter brackets (see below), but before installing the sheathing, we apply a vapor barrier to the wall, and after assembling the sheathing, we place foam plastic boards between its joists. There must be a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm between the underside of the sheathing and the foam plastic.

There is only one drawback here: some overuse of hardware-fungi (or umbrellas) with which the foam is attached to the wall. One fungus will no longer be able to hold 4 adjacent corners of the insulation, as with continuous sheathing with durable EPS, so for each foam board you will need 5 fungi, arranged in an envelope. But both in terms of money and labor costs, such an overexpenditure is a mere pittance compared to the general reduction in cost/simplification of sheathing and insulation work.

Video: siding technology

Peculiarities

The technique described above is suitable for covering a blank wall, but these are found as an exception, and pediments are always not rectangles. When covering a real facade, you have to work around its structural elements, which we will now look into.

Gutters

When dismantling the gutters, their brackets are also removed. The holes for them are widened for propylene dowels, into which the old (or new) brackets will then go, and the dowels are driven into them before installing the sheathing. Next we proceed like this:

On the previous board and corner before the next dowel, mark the coordinates of the hole.
In the next board after installing it, we drill it according to the coordinates, 12-15 mm wider than the diameter of the bracket, not the dowel! If, say, the bracket pin is 10 mm, then the hole should be 22-25 mm in diameter.
Once the sheathing is complete, we drive the brackets into the dowels.
We caulk the gap between the bracket and the casing with foam rubber, neoprene (a strip of household toilet sponge), etc. soft porous material.
We cut the caulking so that it protrudes above the caulking by 1-2 mm.
We apply a 1-2 mm layer of silicone sealant to the pin, caulk and sheathing, 20-25 mm apart.

Such insulation will reliably protect the casing from moisture getting under it along the bracket pin. At the same time, cured silicone is quite elastic, and thin layer stretches like rubber and will not interfere with thermal deformation of the panels.

Windows-doors

To frame window openings, special siding parts are produced: slope profiles, platbands, window aquilons, etc. But the very diversity of their assortment speaks more to the fact that the siding is designed for covering large areas and it is difficult to frame openings with it.

In general, there are two schemes for framing windows with siding: overlay and butt, see fig. The first method better protects against moisture penetration under the skin, but the second is more aesthetically pleasing. In any case, the windows and doors will have to be trimmed and repaired before covering.

But the best way is not to go into the windows with siding at all. To do this, a continuous sheathing is made around each opening (on the left in the next figure) and framed with a J-profile, as shown there on the right. The opening is simply surrounded by siding, and then decorated using window and door technologies. This method also has the advantage that the windows/doors can then be finished slowly one by one, and not all at once “take more - throw further”.

Pediments

There are two features in gable cladding. Firstly, they complete the pediment with J-profiles, because the usual finishing strip does not hold the panel in an inclined position, and special cornice roads are almost never on sale.

Secondly, when covering the pediment both horizontally and vertically, you need to cut the ends of the boards exactly at an angle. This is done by cutting the panel, as shown in Fig. on the right: the board is inserted into the molding, the cut is marked, the board is removed, cut, inserted again into the groove of the profile or the lock of the previous one and pushed into the J-profile. It is most convenient for a beginner to sheathe a pediment divided vertically in half (or into 3 parts, if there is a window) with H-molding.

Note: It is possible to sheathe the pediment at the same time as the wall only if they are laid out at the same time from brick. If the pediment differs in any way from the wall, the sheathing between them must be divided by horizontally laid H-molding. If the pediment also has a ledge inward, then the wall must be completed with a finish, and the pediment must be started with an aquilon and a start, like a wall.

Cornices

For high-quality design of cornices, you may need, firstly, a special cornice molding, on the left in Fig. Then the piers are decorated on top with a J-profile and a special cornice strip with a groove for soffits, in the center in Fig. Finally, the frames for the soffits are decorated inside with the same J-profiles, and the soffits at the corner joints are separated by H-moldings. In general, the story with cornices turns out to be the same as with windows: covering them with siding is justified when performed by a team of trained professionals who hand over the covering on a turn-key basis “like candy.” But for yourself, it’s better to then slowly decorate it to your taste; siding on the gable wouldn’t hurt.

About metal siding

You need to work doubly carefully with metal siding; it can bend irreversibly under its own weight if you hold the board flat by the edge. Secondly, the additions for metal siding are different from those for plastic, see Fig., but for a blockhouse they have their own special ones. Cutting metal siding has already been discussed, and the assembly diagram for it is generally the same as for plastic siding, see next. rice. on right.

For a beginner who is planning to “metalize” a house, it is better to do it with a blockhouse. Its smooth profile (in the middle in the figure) provides sufficiently high rigidity in both bending and torsion, so installing metal siding under a log is not much more difficult than plastic. The only significant difficulty that remains is cutting.

Note: When installing a blockhouse, you should especially be wary of skewing and jamming of panels. If the plastic from a lock that accidentally snaps into place can still be torn back without damaging it, then metal cannot. Both the board and the board were missing.

Base covering

Basement siding is covered from the bottom up, just like other sidings. It has the following nuances:

Basement and wall siding must be taken from the same manufacturer and paired with each other.
Sheathing with basement siding is carried out only “horizontally across horizontally” and, first of all, before sheathing the walls.
No insulation is done.
The positions of the lags are marked from the top of the base; unevenness relative to the ground is compensated for by cementing, blind areas, etc.
During the assembly process, the coating appears additional operation– trimming the panels for the entrance to the corner (see fig.), so careful calculation of the coating is needed so that too much material is not wasted.
The panels are connected to each other by two locks, bottom and side, so you need to install them very carefully until you develop the skill. The exception is the first row, which slides in the starting profile.

To pp. 1 and 2 require clarification. The fact is that basement siding ends not with a finish or some special base J-profile (by the way, all the additions for the base are also special), but with a base curb. This border will also be the starting profile for the wall cladding; aquilon is not needed. It is clear that “someone else’s” or your own, but not adjusted to this particular plinth, wall siding may not fit into the curb. And if the wall was sheathed earlier, then the upper border, even if it stands up to the removal of the plinth, will turn out to be a water collector, and there is no way to fit an aquilon on top of it.

Tree

Wooden siding is the same plank, and the techniques for working with it are the same, see figure:

Start – rectangular plank.
The inner corner is a square rail.
The outer corner is a cladding board sawn lengthwise, assembled overlay or flush.
Assembly - on nails, according to the diagram in Fig. on the right in the top row.
Fasteners wood siding you can’t hide it in any way, so they use it to treat the upholstery after assembly liquid nails to match the wood. At the same time, the joints are sealed, which, provided they are pre-impregnated with a fungicide, negates the likelihood of bugs or mold appearing in the sheathed room. Outside - as nature wills.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation - budget method protection of residential or industrial buildings from the effects of external conditions. A person with minimal construction skills can carry it out independently. The main thing is to adhere to the work technology.

The frame on which the siding panels will be installed can be made of a metal profile or wooden beam.

Metal sheathing

The finished structure will be more durable, stable and reliable. Metal slats are easier to fix on uneven surfaces.

The profile is attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other; hangers are used to connect it to the wall of the building. This technique helps smooth out wall deviations, allowing you to assemble an even frame.

Wood frame

This method is more accessible, but you will need to carefully study the material before purchasing. Typically, bars with a cross section of 50*50 mm are used.

For sheathing, you cannot purchase wood that is peeling or has traces of rot or deformation. Any damage will significantly reduce the service life of the entire structure.

The installed frame must be carefully treated with protective impregnations to increase its resistance to rotting, repel insects and reduce flammability.

Tools for work

For self-installation you will need:

a sharp knife or jigsaw for cutting vinyl parts;
screwdriver;
perforator;
nails;
roulette;
hammer.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Calculation of the amount of vinyl siding

To find out the exact amount of materials that will be needed for the job, you should measure the building being sheathed.

The external surfaces of any structure can be divided into geometric figures: squares, rectangles, triangles. To facilitate the process, you can use this technique by first measuring individual wall elements, and then adding up the resulting values.

When making calculations, it is important to remember that vinyl, like any PVC material, tends to change in size as the ambient temperature increases or decreases. The degree of deviation can be almost 10 cm.

Therefore, it is important to take this property of the facing material into account when drawing up a cladding plan. If this point is ignored, the finished structure will very soon lose its original appearance - the panels will warp or, on the contrary, gaps will form between the individual elements.

To prevent this from happening, before attaching vinyl siding, it is worth studying the installation recommendations.

Rules for installing vinyl siding

In order for the finished structure to be durable and not lose strength over time, you should:

When installing, secure the panels so that they can move freely.
Drive the nail exclusively into the center of the hole intended for it. You cannot fix the panel with a nail located at one end of the hole - this can damage the product. If it is necessary to drive it into the end (for example, if only in this area it is possible to connect it to the sheathing strip), the hole should first be widened using a hammer drill.
You cannot drive the nail all the way in - there should be a distance of 1 mm between the panel and the head.
The fasteners must be driven in at right angles, otherwise the cladding elements may be bent.

Surface preparation

Any hanging elements - gutters, trim, lamps, doorbells, mailboxes and other things - they are removed from the walls.

Afterwards, they carefully inspect their home: if there are traces of mold, large cracks and other defects on the walls, they are eliminated. Old wall cladding (plaster, tiles, boards) is completely removed.

Installation of sheathing

Do-it-yourself installation of the lathing is carried out, taking into account the method of fastening the siding: under horizontal mount you will need a vertical frame, and vice versa.

If they plan to insulate the building at the same time as the cladding, the sheathing is made double. In this case, the first frame should be located perpendicular to the second, on which the siding will be installed. For example, if the sheathing will be mounted horizontally, then the frame under it - the second - should be vertical, and the first, installed on the wall, should be horizontally directed.

The sheathing pitch is determined based on the width of the slab insulation.

Installation of sheathing

Siding installation

If you have no experience in carrying out such work, a video instruction will help: after watching it, it will be easier to understand all the nuances of the process.

Finding the starting point

The final result will depend on the evenness of the position of the starting bar; close attention should be paid to this point.

An installation line must be marked along the entire perimeter of the building. Using a building level, find the lowest point on the sheathing and screw in a self-tapping screw at this point.

They do the same around the entire perimeter of the house. The thread is secured to the first screw and pulled around the perimeter, returning to the starting mark.

Using the cord as a reference line, fix the J-profile. In this case, a margin of 6 mm is left at the corners. The profiles themselves are fixed at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that they do not warp when the temperature changes.

Installation of corner external and internal profiles

Before installing these elements, the soffits are first installed or their locations are marked.

The corner profile is applied to the corner of the sheathing so that there is a free space of 3 mm between its end and the soffit. The bottom edge should protrude 6 mm below the starting strip. Secure the part using self-tapping screws.

Using a level, make sure that the profile is in a strictly vertical position. The rest are fixed in the same way.

The process of installing internal profiles is no different from installing external ones.

Framing door and window openings

If the openings are located in the same plane as the wall of the building, a j-profile is installed along their perimeter.

The order of connecting profiles:

On the upper profile, bridge cuts are made at each end.
Bend them down. The resulting hole is designed to drain sediment from the upper part to the lower one.
Cuts are made on the side profiles so that the part can be tightly fitted to the top profile.
Assembling the structure.

The lower part of the frame is made using the same principle.

Installation of the first row and extension of panels

Step-by-step instructions for installing vinyl siding:

Work begins from the rear of the house - here possible beginner mistakes will not be so noticeable.
The panel is inserted into the lock of the initial strip, while simultaneously inserting its end into the corner profile. In this case, it is important to maintain a distance of 6 mm (summer) or 9 mm (winter) from the bottom of the corner profile lock.
The panels are built up using the overlapping method or using an H-profile. In the first case, the locks and mounting frames are cut so that when installing the parts, an overlap of 2.5 cm is formed. The H-profile is installed in the same way as corner profiles - retreating from the soffits by 3 mm and extending beyond the level of the initial strip by 6 mm.

The remaining panels are mounted either around the perimeter or separately sheathed on each wall. This does not affect the final result.

At this stage, the evenness of the work is checked every 3 rows. To install a row interrupted by an opening, the panel adjacent to it is cut to the required size. Another finishing profile is installed in the lower part of the window opening frame - this way the siding will be leveled in the plane.

Installing siding on the area under the roof

Siding, the installation of which is almost complete, in the area adjacent to the roof, is secured using a J- or finishing profile.

First, a profile is fixed around the perimeter of the house under the roof. Then measure the distance remaining between the bottom of the J-profile lock and the lock of the penultimate row of panels. Subtract 2 mm from the obtained value (standard technological indentation).

Points are marked on the vinyl panel (so that when cutting, the lock is also removed), a line is drawn, and the excess is cut off. They make hooks and bend them to the outside of the element. If this moment causes difficulties, and it is difficult to repeat it with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.

Insert the prepared panel, secure it in the J-profile lock, slightly pushing it up.

These instructions will help you install vinyl siding yourself.

Regular Construction Materials materials such as brick or wood have proven effective in building construction for various purposes, but over time they also lose their attractiveness and integrity. In this regard, new technologies have been developed to protect the building and improve its appearance. That's why almost every modern builder knows how to attach siding to the outside of a house.

How to attach siding

Fastening materials are no less important than insulation and cladding. You will need:

construction staples;
universal direct hangers;
load-bearing elements, depending on whether the cladding is attached to a metal profile or wooden slats;
dowels;
self-tapping screws;
butyl tapes;
insulation and siding itself.

During installation, you can use a regular screwdriver, but it will be easier to use a screwdriver. You will also need a hammer drill. Which screws to use depends on the wishes of the building owner. They can be steel, aluminum and galvanized. The best choice would be self-tapping screws with a corrosion-resistant coating.

When installing a structure of soffit and insulation on penoplex, aerated concrete or a brick wall, the easiest way is to use lathing. It is attached directly to the surface, creates space for the insulating material and carries the weight of the cladding.

Installation process on wooden slats includes the following stages:

remove from the wall anything that might get in the way - old plaster, drain pipe fittings, etc. Damaged areas need to be repaired and leveled using tow or sealants;
install the horizontal sheathing slats. The distance should correspond to the width of the sheets of insulating material, but not more than 60 cm. Subtract 2 cm from the resulting distance - this will ensure a tight fit of the thermal insulation;
secure the insulation under the siding. Do not allow gaps to remain at the joints. Their presence worsens the quality of insulation and reduces the durability of the entire structure;
attach an insulating membrane that provides the ability to remove condensation and provide wind protection for the insulating material;
installation of counter lathing;
install siding. Use 19 mm galvanized screws for vinyl siding and 25 mm for basement siding.

Only by following all the points in these instructions can you create a reliable and durable coating that can withstand long term operation.

How to attach siding to a metal profile

The metal profile base provides a more reliable and durable fastening; this design can withstand the heavy weight of insulation and cladding material. On wooden house the sheathing is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws, the type and length of which depends on the weight of the profile, siding and wall thickness. When working with a building made of brick or other similar materials, fastening is done with dowels.

Installation features:

the pitch between the outer siding elements depends on their mass. As a rule, the manufacturer himself determines the optimal distance. The standard distance between the planks is 40 cm, if you are using heavy metal siding, and the region in which construction is taking place is characterized by strong winds, the step can be reduced;
The sheathing elements are fixed with metal hangers - thin plates of zinc-coated steel, in the body of which special holes are made. With their help you can adjust the distance between the wall and the profile. Before installation, the hangers are given the shape of the letter “P”. The distance between them corresponds to the step between the slats;
When installing siding, side profiles are installed at the edges of the wall. These elements will become a guideline for further installation of profiles. To align, a string is stretched between them, the level of which determines the position of the transverse elements of the sheathing;
for additional rigidity, you can use special jumpers made from the profiles themselves.

You can complicate the design, making it more reliable and durable, by adding additional supporting elements. One section of a zinc-coated profile with a cross-section of 27 by 28 mm is fixed to the wall with its wide part, the second acts as a spacer between the first profile and the main load-bearing strip.

Types of siding and their installation

Modern market finishing materials offers various types of cladding for siding buildings. The choice depends on the operating conditions and features of the project, as well as on the load that will be exerted on the protective structure.

Installation of vinyl and basement siding

Vinyl siding is made from polymer materials that are resistant to environmental influences and fading in the sun. Can be made in various color solutions and in the form of imitation of natural materials - stone, brick, etc. Mounting order:

The starting strip should be secured around the entire perimeter of the building being finished. It is important to ensure that it is secured as evenly as possible. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, with the help of which the cladding element is attached to the sheathing every 25-30 centimeters. Make sure that the self-tapping screw is screwed in strictly perpendicularly, and that there is a gap of 1 mm between its head and the surface of the siding, which is approximately equal to the thickness of the coins.

When installing, the panels enter the starting strip with a characteristic click, indicating fixation. Each piece of siding must be aligned strictly parallel to the starting strip, so a level should be used during installation. The finishing element is fixed under the roof. So that the strip of facing material can be correctly inserted under the top panel, you need to bend it in an arc and bring it inside the structure.

This cladding gives the building a natural appearance, but must be treated before installation. wooden panels antiseptic drugs. Applies only in dacha construction and on private houses. The material is environmentally friendly, provides the required level of thermal insulation, but is short-lived. Installation procedure:

Each lathing element is pre-treated with antiseptics and hydrophobic substances. Fastening to a wooden house can be done using nails 50 mm long in increments of no more than 40 cm;

Installation of metal siding

The panels for it are made of steel, galvanized or aluminum; they can also be decorated with imitation of materials of natural origin. Metal siding is durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature changes, but it cannot be installed without a gap. Also, metal panels are more expensive than their analogues. Installation procedure:

When performing work, mark in advance and assemble metal strips parallel to the starting strip. The design is additionally equipped with drainage systems; when tightening bolts and screws, leave a gap so as not to scratch the metal, damaging the anti-corrosion coating.

All types of cladding can be combined with various insulating materials. Please note that only strict adherence to installation technology determines the effectiveness of the created structure.

Video: Siding - technology of work

FAQ

In addition to standard installation technologies, there are others that can reduce costs. However, without the required experience, it is difficult to say whether these options are more effective, and whether the desire to save money will result in premature destruction of the insulating structure. In this regard, questions arise:

Can it be mounted directly on OSB? Walls are sometimes sheathed with compressed sheets, and there is often debate about whether to install siding on top without sheathing. Direct mount without ventilation gap reduces the durability of the structure; by fixing the cladding over an uneven wall, you will get an equally uneven surface. In general, this approach is allowed, but only if wood or polymer cladding is used;
Can it be mounted directly on the wall? This is possible if the base is level and free of significant shortcomings. But frameless method installation does not provide a gap for the formation and removal of condensate. This leads to rapid wear of the insulating material. It is also not allowed to attach metal siding to the wall.
Can it be mounted vertically? Yes, but you need to take into account their features. The panels differ in their configuration. So, if you turn the horizontal ones in the vertical direction, this will lead to water flowing under the cladding, so you need to select materials according to the chosen technology. You will also need special edging, trims and frames for window and door openings.

In practice, installation without lathing is used quite rarely, since its presence increases the service life of the entire structure.

An excellent material for covering a house is siding. This fairly inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special construction skills. To do this, just study the siding installation instructions and watch the video material.

Preparing the wall surface

Before starting work on installing the panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.

First of all you should:

Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
Remove all kinds of fastenings, drainpipes, and existing moldings from the walls.
Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
On wooden walls, nail down all loose boards and replace any rotten ones.

After this, you can begin installing the frame, which can be made of a metal profile or wooden beam.

Profile installation

Experts recommend using durable and strong metal sheathing, which you can attach with your own hands even to an uneven base. Such a frame is installed in half-meter increments and attached to the surface using hangers. This will allow you to secure the structural elements at a level and smooth out differences in the surface.

When choosing a wooden sheathing, you should note for the following points:

the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
it is unacceptable for the beams to be deformed;
the material should not exfoliate.

To ensure that the wooden sheathing lasts a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or fire retardant.

Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. TO wooden surface they are attached using self-tapping screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are driven.

Rules for fastening the sheathing frame:

The bars are mounted every 40 cm.
Tracks should be secured around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, and at the bottom and top of siding.
The sheathing must be securely fastened.
The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
The panel is attached to at least two bars.
The front parts of the bars should not be distorted.

When installing a profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane must be carefully checked. Otherwise, the façade cladding may turn out uneven and wavy.

If the building must be additionally insulated, then the space between the sheathing bars can be fill with special material. It is recommended to use mineral wool in slabs for siding. It is better not to lay loose insulation under the panels, as it often becomes deformed during operation. In order for the surface of the house to be smooth, the thickness of the material must be equal to the thickness of the bars.

Sequence of work for home insulation:

The slabs are fastened between the sheathing bars.
A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is secured with perforated membranes.
Bars with a cross section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.

Siding installation: video instructions, stages of work

Before starting work, you must be prepared the following tools:

Roulette.
Building level.
Screwdriver.
Hammer or drill.
Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared to size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, which produces a more beautiful cut.

You should know that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.

Attaching the starting bar

The first siding panels are attached to the wooden or metal sheathing from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have additional protection from precipitation.

The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial strip attached along the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.

The bottom mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm above the bottom point of the sheathing.
Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. In this case, a thread is stretched between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked by the building level.
Along the stretched thread, use chalk to mark a line along which the starting strips will be installed. As a result of the work, the start and finish marks should coincide.
Attach the strip to the corner sheathing and mark the boundaries of its location.
Having retreated from the marked border of 6 mm, you can begin attaching the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that they do not come into contact during temperature changes.
When using brackets as fastening elements, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.

Some experts advise immediately installing starting strips on door and window units. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may ultimately not be at the level of the initial bar.

DIY installation of corner profiles

Row panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are installed first.

Installation features:

In order for the appearance of the building to look harmonious, the joints at the corners and connectors must be at the same level.

Installing siding around openings

The openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. That's why installing panels around openings can be performed in two versions.

If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then waterproofing is first installed, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being noticeable, the following rules must be observed:

make bridge cuts on both sides of the top profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
bend the bridges down;
on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
connect the side and top siding panels so that the bent bridges are inside;
connect the lower casing and the side elements, which have bridges cut on their sides.

The notched bridges are lowered down in order to precipitation With top bar went to the bottom.

If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile should be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges must be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.

Installing the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands for the first time, it is recommended to begin installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.

Insert the panel into the corner profile and connect it to the starting strip lock, leaving a 6mm gap.
Attach the strip to the sheathing without tension.

Vinyl siding can increase your dimensions to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe the technological indentations. If the cladding is installed in the winter season, then the gaps should be 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.

Siding extension

Panels are built up overlapping or using an H-profile.

Before fastening the overlap, the locks and fastening frames are trimmed so that the length of the overlap is 25 mm.
When installing the H-profile at the bottom, 6 mm should be deviated from the starting strip, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is built up with an overlap, in the same way as the corner strips.

Features of installation of the main siding

To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.

From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part equal to the width of the opening plus twice the technological gap of 6 mm is cut off.

The strips cut at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and will provide an indentation of 2 mm.

A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in the plane.

When installing siding with your own hands, you should remember that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontalness, using a level.

Under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:

The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by indentation.
The result obtained is marked on the whole bar and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
“Hooks” are created in the upper part of the resulting element, the distance between which should be 20 cm. To do this, cuts are made that are folded to the front side.
The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate strip and is connected upward to the lock of the finishing profile.

The building is finished with siding and sheathing along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use a starting profile or panels for internal corners.

Installation is similar to installing wall panels:

Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.

Installing siding with your own hands will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such finishing, you will get a house that will delight its owners with its appearance for many years.