Probably everyone knows how crooked the ceilings in our apartments can be. If the differences between the floor slabs are insignificant, then they can be successfully leveled using a thin layer of plaster or putty. But in the case of large curvatures, when we are talking about differences in slabs exceeding 3 cm, plaster will not be the best way to solve the problem - such layers of mortar may one day simply fall on your head. The only way out of this situation is to level the ceiling with plasterboard. It is this question that we will consider today on the “Dream House” website. Having studied all the intricacies of this work with the help of this master class, we will learn how to install a flat plasterboard ceiling with our own hands.
Leveling the ceiling with drywall is not so complex process, and you can completely try to do this yourself. For convenience and a more correct understanding of the entire technology, we will divide it into two main stages - construction metal frame and subsequent.
How to level the ceiling in an apartment with plasterboard: assembling the frame
When approaching the question of how to level the ceiling yourself, you should understand the importance of correctly assembling the metal frame for plasterboard - the reliability, durability and evenness of the structure as a whole depends on it. The frame assembled from profiles is 80% of the work done.
At the first stage of constructing the frame, it is necessary to mark the level of the position of the future ceiling. The plane is set using hydraulic or laser level. There is no other way - if you get attached to existing walls or floor slabs, you will get a curve.
To avoid fiddling around with marking the ceiling for a long time, use a level to mark the plane of the frame in all corners of the room. After this, we arm ourselves with a tapping thread and connect all these points with horizontal lines.
The ceiling plane is set, now you can move on to further work. At the next stage, leveling the ceiling with your own hands involves installing uv guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws relative to marked lines along the entire perimeter of the room. For ease of use, guide profiles should be placed above the marked line.
How to level the ceiling
We move on, and at the next stage, solving the question of how to properly level the ceiling with plasterboard involves installing load-bearing cd profiles. The principle of their installation is quite simple - they are inserted into guide profiles with a pitch of 400mm. The direction of their installation must correspond to the position of the drywall sheets. Let's just say they should be located along the length of the sheet. If the length of the supporting profiles is not enough, then, if necessary, they can be extended using CD connectors.
When wondering how to level a ceiling with your own hands, you should understand that installed load-bearing profiles will not be enough. And in order to give the frame rigidity and prevent cracking of the seams in the future, it is additionally necessary to install jumpers. Their installation is carried out in 500mm increments along the entire plane of the future ceiling.
The jumpers are fastened using crab or cross-shaped CD connectors. It is better to install them in advance and secure them with self-tapping screws in all provided places (and these are 8 attachment points).
Once the crabs are in place, the jumpers can be cut and installed. As a result of all efforts, a metal frame should be obtained with a lathing pitch of 400 by 500 mm at the centers of the profiles.
We move on and fix the ceiling to the floor slabs. There are quite a lot of fasteners used to level the ceiling with plasterboard yourself - the frame can be hung on U-shaped brackets, boots made from ud guide profiles, or, as in our master class, quick hangers. The latter are used when there is a large distance between the floors and the frame. By the way, quick hangers are very convenient - with their help, leveling the frame in a plane is not difficult.
So, we install quick hangers with a pitch of 600mm along the entire length of each profile. The hangers are attached to the ceilings with dowels through a special eyelet located on the spoke of this product, and in the profile they are simply wedged with a turn.
How to properly level the ceiling
The next step in deciding how to level uneven ceiling, there will be its leveling - the frame must be installed in accordance with the plane marked at the initial stage of work. For this purpose, either a long level or threads stretched across the supporting profiles are used. Adjusting the hangers is very simple - the spring with which the quick hangers are equipped is compressed by hand, after which the profile is set to the required position. Here you need to try very hard and achieve an almost ideal position of the cd profiles in the plane - none of them should be higher or lower than the guides fixed to the walls.
Leveling the ceiling with your own hands
How to level a ceiling with plasterboard: covering the frame
Sheathing the frame with sheets of plasterboard is the easiest task in solving the issue of leveling the ceiling. The only difficulty that arises when covering the frame is the dimensions plasterboard sheets– here you will need an assistant. In principle, it is quite possible to cope with this task together. We lift the plaster sheet to the ceiling and fasten it with metal screws ø3.5mm and 25mm long along all installed profiles without exception. The gypsum must be fixed both along the supporting profiles and along the guides with a pitch of 150mm.
If you look at the sheet of drywall, you will see that the factory edges are made a little thinner than the entire body. This is done for subsequent high-quality sealing of seams. Keep in mind that all hand-cut drywall edges must be hemmed, i.e. cut the chamfer. Only in this case, when sealing the joints, they will not crack during the operation of the ceiling.
This is how you can level a plasterboard ceiling yourself. Difficult? Judge for yourself. In any case, the information presented above will be useful. Even if you are not going to level the ceiling yourself, but consider it necessary to hire specialists for this work, you will always be able to control their work.
Not everyone can and, especially, not everyone wants to pay a lot of money to a team for installing a frame, which you can attach with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend a lot more money for their installation than when buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn it yourself! And we assure you that a plasterboard ceiling is not as scary as it is described on the Internet!
Having spent only 20-25 minutes of time, you can make suspended ceilings from plasterboard without outside help. Therefore, right now we will steal a “piece of bread” from professional installers and screw this thing in place with our own hands!
Why do you need a plasterboard ceiling?
Many people believe that this design is only for beauty. In fact, everything is completely different and appearance rooms - the last reason to do suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at why you need to make a plasterboard ceiling.
- Saving on heating: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating, this is especially true for tall buildings. From a ceiling of 320 centimeters ( a private house, Stalin) you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat excess and warm air will be closer.
- Ceiling leveling. Some emergency rooms require significant repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any unevenness.
- The problem of laying communications and utility networks. Sometimes it’s easier to hide them under drywall than to saw through the entire ceiling and walls with a wall chaser.
- Sound isolation. The best way“get rid” of neighbors and retire to your own house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live on an airfield.
There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and moving into new house possible much faster.
Marking the ceiling for plasterboard - the first stage
Let's start with purchasing materials and counting money. To know how much material will fly onto the plasterboard ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it and calculate it using a calculator. Let's take a closer look at how to mark the ceiling for plasterboard.
STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all the angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and apply a mark with a marker.
STEP 2: Marks other corners. We take a laser level (you can also use a hydraulic level, but the work is more difficult) and “punch” a straight line to the other three corners, make marks. 
STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer 1 nail at one mark, another at another, stretch the paint cord between them (lubricate it a little with grease), then move it to the side and release it. He hits the wall, leaves a smooth mark - the line is ready. You can also simply draw a line using a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil. 
STEP 4: fastening the guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a metal profile 28x27 mm and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take the sealing tape (sold as a set), glue it to the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made. 
STEP 5: mark the wall for the main profiles. The drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on any side of the wall every 40 cm and draw a line. We draw perpendicular jumpers every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, then every 40-50 centimeters. 
Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles will be located under the drywall. This will greatly simplify the search during the process of screwing the drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to poke holes in it for a long time until you find the jumper in the middle of the sheet.
Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. There’s no need to scribble “in reserve”, since it’s impossible to spoil a metal profile and even a bent one can be safely aligned and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage we will need the following items for the plasterboard ceiling:
- Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (main) according to the calculations.
- "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
- Sealing tape.
- Anchors and dowels (you can take 50 pieces to start with).
- Level.
- Plasterboard sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
- Putty (3-4 bags per medium-sized room).
- Screwdriver.
- Drywall self-tapping screws (25 mm for 10 mm sheets).
- Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).
After purchasing all this slop (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can start working.
The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling
The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work lies ahead - attaching metal profiles and creating a durable frame for the ceiling. In principle, this is not much more difficult than, only in this case the work is carried out with raised hands. Remember that the accuracy of the work depends on whether your plasterboard ceiling will sag in 2-3 years or not.
STEP 1: We attach the profile hangers to the ceiling. This must be done with anchors, since the dowel is for vertical surface much worse. 
STEP 2: increasing profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the entire room, they need to be fastened together. To do this, you need to purchase special connecting fasteners and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the profile suspension. 
STEP 3: fastening profiles to hangers. You need to evenly lift the profile by 2 edges (a helper would be helpful here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and attach the other edge. Next, following the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), “grab” the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners. 
Important: never leave the profile unsupported by 1 or two screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. Minimum 2 points in different angles profile, or preferably 3-4 points.
STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. A tool 250 centimeters long will do. If you somehow managed to screw it crookedly, unscrew it and adjust it with hangers in the required place. 
STEP 5: in exactly the same way we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we attach the jumpers (joining points of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and screw them together. 
STEP 6: sound insulation and insulation. If the installation of a metal frame involves the installation of insulation and insulation, then it’s time to take care of it at this stage. We cut the mineral wool into large pieces and attach it over the lintels. 
Important: use goggles, a respirator and gloves when installing mineral wool, it may get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.
Installing a frame under drywall is the most complex and time-consuming process; all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).
Attaching drywall to profiles
When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can move on to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be placed in room temperature with a relative humidity of no more than 85%, let it rest for several days. Remember that sheets cannot be placed vertically and stored that way– they can become deformed under their own weight, especially if they were a little damp. Let's move on to the fastening process.
STEP 1: Use a utility knife to cut the edges of each drywall at an angle of 30-40% to make it easier to seal them with putty later. This only applies to cut sheets, since pasted sheets already have such a chamfer from the start. 
STEP 2: we lift the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not hurt) and attach it in the corners, then look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and screw the drywall there. If you ignored such tags in the first section, you will have to search for the profile at random. You must retreat at least 15 centimeters from the edges so that the sheet does not crack, remember this! 
STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the heads are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it won’t be possible to putty normally, and “obliquely, crookedly, as long as it’s quick” will not suit us. 
Fastening HA sheets takes no more than an hour per small room, since your frame is already level and all that remains is to grab them to the profile using a screwdriver. The frequency of tightening the screws is 20 centimeters.
Sealing seams, leveling and counting materials
After the sheets are attached, you need to prepare the putty and apply it using a large spatula, making sure the corners are even so that there is no excess finishing material at the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, it will take a long time to straighten the corners.
After the putty has dried (6-8 hours), you can take a trowel tape or paper and remove all the “smudges”, level the surface and prepare it for use. finishing. The ceiling can be painted in desired color, do suspended ceiling, decorative plaster and everything you need.
For a room at 20 square meters You will need approximately the following amount of materials:
- 19 standard size ceiling profiles;
- 110 hangers (attaching the profile to the ceiling);
- 8-9 sheets of GC 10 mm;
- 10 guide profiles (they stick to the wall);
- 24 crabs;
- 0.5 kg self-tapping screws for attaching drywall.
- 30 dowels.
Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a work team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you to decide.
- The joints connecting 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line; they must be done at random, like laying bricks with a “bond” in construction.
- The use of sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since sound is not transmitted through the metal.
- Buy now moisture resistant drywall from a well-known manufacturer, its cost is a little higher, but you will be sure that it will not “lead” and the edges will not break.
- Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets; using a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an additional battery so that you can work continuously.
- Finishing putty hides only small irregularities, so sand and apply the first layer as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.
If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one made by the work crew and 100 times better than what would-be migrant workers make it at “half the price”! We also suggest watching a video of how they do it plasterboard ceiling already experienced builders:
During the renovation process, the question often arises: how to level the ceiling?
When entering a room, people often pay attention to this detail.
The appearance of a room can tell a lot about its owners and form a certain opinion and reputation about them.
It is not without reason that they say that an apartment is the face of its owner. To solve the problem, you can, of course, contact specialists who will do all the work for you.
But if you want to save money and do everything yourself, then first you should find out what technology exists for leveling the ceiling.
There are two ways to level the ceiling with your own hands - “dry” and “wet”.
The “dry” method is leveling the ceiling with plasterboard, and the “wet” method is leveling the ceiling with plaster and putty.
The most common thing is to level the ceiling for painting with your own hands using plaster.
Nowadays there are various mixtures on sale for leveling the ceiling, so you won’t have any problems purchasing materials.
Mixtures vary in both price and quality.
The most successful mixtures are obtained with polystyrene foam, drywall, plaster, etc.
Depending on the selected mixture, methods for performing the process are also chosen.
The technology used to level the ceiling with plasterboard is mainly used in cases where the differences in the ceiling are very large - from 5 cm.
Therefore, in addition to desire, you should also take into account the features of your ceiling and walls.
Using plaster with large differences is impractical, since a thick layer can simply fall off, and this is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but also dangerous to the health of household members.
When choosing a method for leveling the ceiling, you should also take into account such indicators as the height of the walls and ceiling.
If the height of the walls is not very large, then a plasterboard structure will “steal” a few more centimeters from their height. In this case, it is better to use the “wet” method, the technology for working with it is slightly different.
Rooms are in different states, so the problem often arises: what methods are best to use to level the ceiling in an apartment?
In any case, before starting work, you need to carry out preparatory work.
Remove from the surface old paint, whitewash and coating residues.
All these materials will not adhere well to the new ones, and if the surface is not cleaned, the new coating will soon fall on your head.
You can remove the old coating yourself using a spatula.
Another option is to use a drill with a wire attachment, but be prepared for the fact that there will be a lot of dust in the room.
For convenience and ease of work, wear a respirator and goggles.
Check the strength of the plaster at the joints of panels, heating pipes and adjacent walls by tapping it with a hammer.
Anything that does not hold well should be removed with a spatula, and anything that hangs well should be left in place. Now with the help of water and detergent Remains of dirt and dust must be removed from the base.
Check the base for the presence of fungus and mold. If they are present, then you must definitely get rid of them using an antifungal agent, since over time they can appear even on a new coating.
Now you can coat the surface with primer deep penetration to increase the adhesion of plaster and floor slabs.
When the surface is ready, use one of the ceiling leveling technologies that is more suitable for your case.
Foam insulation is carried out at the final stage of work.
Plastering
For many years, this method of leveling concrete ceilings and walls has been the most popular. Plaster is used even where there is deep cracks, concrete chips, and various other defects.
Plaster can be applied to the surface of walls and ceilings in a thick layer of 2-5 mm, and this is its main advantage.
If you are interested in how to level the ceiling with plaster in an apartment, you should know that there are two ways to apply it to the surface.
The first method involves using a spatula, which is used to apply the material to the base and smooth it out.
If the surface is very heterogeneous, with differences in height, then in this case plastering along beacons is used.
Leveling the ceiling with plaster along the beacons is done using special metal profiles - beacons, which are secured with plaster.
Before installing the profiles, the surface should be primed and allowed to dry. Apply a path of plaster onto it and attach the lighthouse profile to it.
When plastering along beacons, you should focus on the control line, along which you should align the profile using a level.
Plastering along the beacons will be carried out using the rule, so the distance between the beacons should not be longer this construction tool.
Alignment with beacons should begin when the profiles have dried and adhere well to the ceiling.
If the differences in the ceiling are quite large, then you need to use ceiling reinforcement.
To do this, take a painting mesh, attach it to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or the adhesive side, and evenly apply putty on top in several layers.
When the plaster has dried well for several days, the surface is covered with thin layer putties.
It is worth noting that plastering is a rather labor-intensive process, but it allows you to solve the problem of how to level the ceiling with your own hands.
Putty
Now we will learn how to level the ceiling with putty. This method is used when differences in ceiling level are 1-2 cm.
Putty, like plaster, is applied to a cleaned, primed surface.
Apply the first layer of starting putty with a wide spatula towards you and level it as usual.
Make semicircular movements and tilt the spatula to control the layer of mixture.
Remove excess material immediately. When the first layer has dried, the coating is checked again for uneven areas and putty is applied to these areas.
It is very important that all layers of putty dry thoroughly, otherwise sooner or later it will peel off. The last layer is rubbed with a fine grout mesh.
Thus, you learned how to properly level the ceiling for painting. Prime the surface with thinned paint, and when dry, apply two more coats of paint.
Leveling with plasterboard
Now we will learn how to level the ceiling with plasterboard. This is the so-called “dry” leveling method, after which it is very convenient to insulate the surface with foam plastic.
This way you can perform leveling and hide a variety of defects in the ceiling and walls yourself, while saving a significant amount of time.
This type of leveling allows you not only to hide differences in height, ventilation and various communications, but also to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic, which will be important for cold rooms.
However, it should be taken into account that leveling the ceiling with plasterboard or leveling with foam plastic takes away the height of the walls, so it is not advisable to use them in low rooms.
For installation, you will need power tools and an assistant, since it will be difficult to make a structure with foam or drywall yourself.
A plasterboard ceiling is mounted from plasterboard sheets, which are attached to metal profiles. Along the walls on required height fasten metal profiles using dowels and a level.
To do this, measure the height of the room from floor to ceiling in the corners and find the lowest point, which is transferred to all corners of the room.
Now a thread or cord is pulled from corner to corner, along which the guide profiles are attached.
Suspensions are attached to the ceiling to hold the supporting profiles. This is a plate that is attached with anchors and bends down. The profile is attached to the bent part of the plate using self-tapping screws.
The profile can be located at a distance of 12 cm from the surface. The distance between the hangers should not be more than 75 cm so that the structure is strong and reliable.
When all the profiles are attached along the room, you also need to install transverse profiles at a distance of at least 50 cm.
This is necessary so that the sheets of drywall do not sag over time.
When the frame is ready, you should take care of the wiring and other communications, since after installing the drywall, this will no longer be possible.
You should run wires to all the lamps and check if everything works.
Each sheet of drywall has a recess along the edge, which is designed for ease of putty.
If you are not attaching a whole sheet to the ceiling, but a cut one, then use a knife to make a small indentation yourself.
When all the drywall is attached to the frame, the joints are filled with putty and covered with mesh.
If you are gluing wallpaper onto plasterboard, then you can stop there, but if you need to prepare the ceiling for painting, then putty the plasterboard on top with a thin layer of the mixture and rub it with a sanding mesh, and then paint it as described above.
Now you know how to properly level the ceiling in a room. The choice of leveling method depends on the characteristics of the room and your capabilities. Don’t forget to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic after leveling.
Quite often, plasterboard is used to level the ceiling, which is attached to a specially created frame. This method is very common. However, there are cases when the ceiling is leveled with plasterboard without a frame. It is clear that if the height difference is quite large (exceeds 4 cm), then you can’t do without a frame. Ideally, the height difference should not exceed 2 cm so that the frameless method of attaching drywall can be used.
The frameless method is used in most cases for flat ceilings
Drywall is attached to the ceiling without a frame for the reason that this method there are certain positive sides, which encourages its implementation. What advantages are we talking about?
- The absence of a frame with a more or less flat ceiling is already an advantage. There is no need to spend money on profiles, screws, dowels and other tools that would be required for the job (tin snips, drill, etc.). It also saves time and effort, because the frame does not need to be assembled, and this process is very labor-intensive.
- The height of the room is not hidden. Suspended structure takes up at least 8 cm of height, so the ceiling level will be lowered. For modern apartments such losses are not critical, but with low ceilings such a decrease will be noticeable.
- Fastening plasterboard to a ceiling without a frame is carried out using the same gypsum boards, but now they do not need to be cut so that the joints fall clearly in the middle of the profile.
This fastening method has much more disadvantages than advantages. You need to take them all into account before making your final choice. The disadvantages include:
- it is impossible to qualitatively level crooked ceilings with a height difference of more than 4 cm;
- It won't be possible to do the wiring, which makes it very problematic to make new lighting. If the chandelier remains in place and no more lamps are added, then you can do without a frame;
- there is no possibility to carry out insulation and additional sound insulation;
- In most cases, gypsum boards will have to be secured using special glue, and it is extremely important to do everything correctly so that the sheets do not fall off under the load of their own weight. Also, the use of construction adhesive results in a large amount of waste;
- since plasterboard is attached to the ceiling without a frame, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base, which is not necessary when using profiles;
- There is no possibility to create multi-level ceilings.
The disadvantages of the frameless method are very serious, so it is not used very often. You need to weigh the pros and cons to understand whether it is possible to mount gypsum boards without profiles in your particular case. Perhaps the ceiling is almost perfect, there is no need to move the chandelier, and there is no need for insulation. Then using a frame may seem unnecessary. There are also cases in which it is not needed. For example, when attaching drywall to wooden ceiling without frame. In this option, the ceiling is already flat and profiles are not needed. But such situations are extremely rare.
Drywall is attached to a wooden ceiling using self-tapping screws without using glue. Principle of operation
The entire process of installing gypsum boards to a ceiling without a frame comes down to ultimately getting the same flat surface, as is the case with using profiles. For greater convenience, beacons can be used so that the surface does not end up being crooked. Of course, you can do without them, but in this case you will have to devote a lot of time to each sheet so that it lies as evenly as possible. Before attaching drywall to the ceiling without profiles, you need to decide whether beacons will be used or not.
For small areas (toilet, storage room, balcony) you can work without beacons. If the ceiling area is large (bedroom, hall), then it is better to use beacons.
The principle of working with adhesives was described above (when the gypsum board is attached to special solution). However, its installation can be done in another way. It is permissible to fasten gypsum boards with self-tapping screws directly to the ceiling. Typically, this method is used when the ceiling is made of wood, so that the screws hold securely.
Use of adhesives
Drywall can be attached to the ceiling without a frame different ways. Very often adhesives are used, thanks to which the plasterboard is attached to the surface. However, it is extremely difficult to work this way. It’s not a problem to dilute the adhesive solution to the desired consistency, because the instructions are on the package. It is much more difficult to glue drywall, and even above your head.
It's easier to apply glue to drywall rather than to the ceiling.
The glue itself must be applied around the perimeter, and then in the center of the sheet. The distance between the glue applied to the drywall should be 40 cm. There is no need to spread the glue along the very edge, because it will protrude outward when pressed.
Before gluing drywall to the ceiling without profiles, you need to prepare the surface. It is first cleaned with a spatula to remove paint and whitewash. The loose putty should also fall off. If wallpaper was used, it must be removed completely. All dirt and grease stains (remaining after painting) are removed. Only after this can the ceiling be primed. The most convenient way to do this is with a roller on a telescopic stick. This way you can prime the ceiling while standing on the floor.
It is necessary to use a special primer that is compatible with the glue that will be used for installing the gypsum board. Be sure to apply two layers of primer for better adhesion.
Plasterboard sheets coated with adhesive are lifted up and pressed. They are pressed down with a certain force to be at the same level. You will have to try very hard to get all the sheets to lie flat. Especially if the ceiling has a large curvature.
It is better to work together so that the drywall can be lifted properly. At independent work You should make yourself supports (for example, connect the profile in the shape of the letter “T”) so that you can support the gypsum board on them when lifting.
Many people are afraid to use glue, putty, mastic and other mixtures for fastening. There is a risk that plasterboard on a ceiling without a frame, attached in this way, may fall off. Like, over time everything will dry out and the plasterboard will fall right on your head. If you choose a bad adhesive mixture and primer, then this option is quite realistic.
Installation on a wooden ceiling
With such a ceiling there is no need to use a frame. When the ceiling is made of wood, it is usually already flat. However, its appearance can be transformed. Drywall is used for this purpose. Since nothing needs to be leveled, it is attached without using a profile, but using self-tapping screws. In fact, the sheets are simply screwed to the ceiling with screws.
Installing plasterboard on a wooden ceiling without a frame is not difficult, because such repairs are easy to do yourself. In this case, the height of the room is not reduced, and repair costs are minimal. With the help of supports you can carry out the installation yourself. However, a wooden ceiling can become deformed and cause damage to the drywall. In particular, the seams may come apart.
The wood must shrink before it can be covered with drywall.
Installation is carried out using wood screws. The gypsum board is screwed in the same way as in the case of using profiles.
Let's use our imagination to replace the frame
Often execution repair work is mechanical process, which does not require special imagination. However, in some cases it is extremely important element workflow. There may be several answers to the question of how to attach drywall to a ceiling without a profile.
There is another method that is used extremely rarely, but it is still worth talking about. Perhaps he will come across some interesting ideas, which will be possible to implement with minimal experience.
The ceiling is marked and drilled for dowels in increments of 20 cm. The entire ceiling is marked so that the distance between the strips is 40 cm (as when installing the frame). When everything is marked, the holes are drilled and the dowels are inserted, you need to mark on the sheets of drywall. It is necessary to mark all the points where the gypsum board will be attached to the ceiling using self-tapping screws and dowels. All these marks need to be countersunk drilled so that the screw heads sink and do not stick out. Since the sheets will not be pressed tightly against the base, the screws will not go deeper into the drywall themselves.
Option for attaching sheets to the ceiling
The sheets are lifted, and then the screws are screwed through them into the dowels, but not completely. This is how all the sheets are applied, and then the ceiling is leveled. You can't do without a laser level here. I use self-tapping screws of different lengths and by not screwing them in completely, I can attach drywall to the ceiling without a frame.
This method can be used to level out large differences in ceiling height when the ceiling level is low. However, the process is very complicated, because not everyone will be able to cut the sheets in advance the right size and mark all the places on the gypsum boards and on the ceiling where they will be fastened with screws. Few people will want to drill future holes to make a hole for the screw head. It’s also not easy to constantly move around the entire perimeter in order to constantly tighten and loosen the screws, thereby leveling the ceiling. This method should only be used if the curvature of the ceiling is too great and you absolutely do not want to use a frame made of profiles.
The use of plasterboard to finish the ceiling is a solution that allows you to both obtain a perfectly even coating and form unique design interior in an apartment or country house. Traditional way gypsum board fastenings are considered frame technology using .
However, there are situations when it is necessary to eliminate the frame and fix the plasterboard covering directly to the ceiling.
Features of finishing the ceiling with plasterboard without a frame and profile will be given in this article.
Frameless technology for installing plasterboard on the ceiling is one of the most common finishing options, which is advisable to use in the following cases:
- planned single-level ceiling or the ceiling height does not allow the installation of a full-fledged frame;
- it is necessary to complete the work quickly and at minimal cost;
- The ceiling surface in the room is flat and there is no need to hide wiring or communications.
However, despite the apparent simplicity of the installation process, fixing gypsum boards directly to the ceiling surface requires both knowledge of the technology and a certain skill when performing the work.
Glue on a sheet of drywall For best result You need to pay attention to such points as:
- selection of optimal installation technology depending on the base material of the ceiling structure;
- carrying out thorough preparation of the surface, which will ensure maximum adherence of the sheets and high-quality adhesion of the glue to the base, if used;
- the presence of accompanying devices for lifting and fixing gypsum boards on the ceiling during installation, since when using adhesives it takes time for them to set securely, and plasterboard itself is a heavy material.
All this must be thought through and prepared in advance at the installation planning stage, so that the process itself can be completed without additional complications.
Stages of leveling a ceiling without a frame
To execute reliable fastening plasterboard to the ceiling without a frame, it is necessary to carefully level the surface.
this work carried out in the following sequence:
- The ceiling surface is thoroughly cleaned of old coating, including:
- Joints, cracks and are treated with a primer, and wooden plots are antiseptic.
- Using a horizontal or water level, a marking of the ceiling level is applied along the walls of the room, taking into account the thickness of the gypsum board. In this case, it is necessary to start marking from an angle as close as possible to the floor.
In cases of significant deviations of the ceiling from the horizontal level, it is advisable to stretch construction twine along the markings so that the line is visible visually.
Leveling the ceiling with putty Based on the results of the work, you can evaluate the general curvature of the surface in order to choose a method for correcting errors.
Read also
The process of leveling the ceiling with plasterboard sheets
Correct fastening of plasterboard sheets without frame
In order to attach plasterboard to a ceiling without a frame, it is necessary to adhere to installation rules, compliance with which will allow you to avoid subsequent re-repair work.
Attaching drywall to the ceiling using self-tapping screws
Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard without a frame and attaching gypsum boards with self-tapping screws is the most in a simple way installation on concrete base, which also allows you to level the ceiling surface with significant curvatures and deviations from the horizontal level.
Fastening drywall with self-tapping screws Installation of sheets occurs in the following order:
This method can be used for any curvature of the ceiling surface.
Attaching drywall to the ceiling using mastic
Another way to level a ceiling with plasterboard is to use mastic as an adhesive.
The technology is as follows:
It is better to install drywall on the ceiling surface using factory-made compounds, strictly following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Installing drywall on the ceiling using glue
This method is advisable to use when the ceiling surface is flat; it will ensure maximum adherence of the sheet and reliable fixation of the glue.
Fastening drywall with glue Sequence of work when applying glue:
- the adhesive composition is applied in an even layer over the entire surface of the gypsum board, starting from the edges;
- Next, the gypsum board is applied to the surface and fixed with additional devices.
Read also
Installation multi-level ceilings in the room - step 4
It should be noted that it is not advisable to attach gypsum boards using glue in rooms with high humidity, which negatively affects adhesives.
Frameless technology for attaching plasterboard to a wooden ceiling
It is also possible to use plasterboard on a wooden ceiling without a frame, and in some cases this is The best decision when finishing.
Attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling Ceiling in wooden house can be of two types:
- With protruding floor beams, that is, the plank lining is made on top.
In this case, it is allowed to attach drywall:
- directly along the beams, while joining the sheets must also be done on the beams;
- in the spaces between the floors.
- With hemming done with rough boards along the bottom edge of the beams.
The gypsum boards are fastened smoothly along the boards.
The main method of fastening plasterboard in a wooden house is to fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, using wood screws, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the plasterboard and the base material. As a rule, it is 70–90 mm.
Additionally, washers are used to prevent the self-tapping screws from pressing into the gypsum board.
Attaching drywall to beams If there are significant deviations of the wooden ceiling from the level, it is possible to adjust the position of the gypsum plasterboard sheet using self-tapping screws, which are evenly released or tightened if necessary. In this case, the length of the screws must be selected taking into account this adjustment.
It should be noted that installation of drywall using adhesives for wooden structures use is not recommended.
Possible problems when attaching drywall to a ceiling without a frame
Usage frameless technology installation of gypsum boards on ceiling covering, of course, has a number of advantages, but you may encounter some problems, including: 
- a poorly prepared surface will prevent reliable fixation when using adhesives, which can cause both the appearance of cracks and the sheets falling off in the future;
- the same effect can occur if reliable support of the sheet is not ensured while it is setting with glue;
- when fastening with self-tapping screws, you need to choose their optimal length with some plus margin, and when screwing them, avoid burying the caps in the sheet;
- When laying drywall without a frame on a wooden base, cracks may also occur due to the mobility of the wood.
It is advisable to take all these points into account when carrying out work in order to avoid annoying troubles in the future.
So the finishing ceiling surfaces drywall without plasterboard is not only possible, but also the best option. By following technological techniques and installation rules, a frameless plasterboard ceiling will serve for a long time.
