Painting the ceiling with water-based paint. Painting the ceiling with water-based paint from A to Z

Painting water-based paint- one of the most popular ways to finish the ceiling. Its advantage is simplicity: a few strokes of the brush, and a neat, beautiful coating is ready. However, to achieve such a result, you need to strictly follow the technology. Let's talk about this in more detail.

Why water-based paint?

Important! If the ceiling is very dark, be sure to lighten it before painting with an appropriate primer. Otherwise, the base will show through the paint and even 3 layers will not be enough to make the coating snow-white. In this case, paint should be chosen with high hiding power.

What tools will you need to paint the ceiling?

To work you should prepare:

  1. Roller with medium pile. A short pile can leave streaks, while a long pile will pick up a lot of paint. Masters do not recommend using foam or velor rollers.
  2. Small flute brush for treating the ceiling near the junction with the wall.
  3. Painting tray with a corrugated bottom. Don't neglect it. The cuvette, unlike other containers, will help leave exactly as much paint on the roller as needed. This will help achieve an even layer without smudges.
  4. Fine sandpaper for grouting.
  5. Masking tape for pasting the borders of surfaces that do not require painting.
  6. If you do not plan to use a stepladder or sawhorse, you will need a telescopic folding handle for a brush or roller, with which you can reach the ceiling.
  7. It is advisable to acquire a bright portable lamp to monitor the transitions of paint on the surface and monitor the uniformity of the applied layers.
  8. Water-based paint.

If you plan to paint the ceiling with colored paint, then the white composition must be diluted with a color designed for water-based mixtures. When mixing, you need to take into account that the dried surface will be a couple of tones lighter than the liquid paint. The entire volume should be diluted: it is extremely difficult to obtain the same shade in different portions.

If you use tinting in a store, write down the paint color code. In the event that you need the same shade, it will be enough to purchase the same paint with which the surface was previously painted and tint it with the same shade. But it should be remembered that if the surface was painted a long time ago, the paint could fade and lose tone. In this case, choosing the same shade will be much more difficult. It might be easier to paint the entire surface.

Stages of work

So, it's time to start painting. For best result 3 layers need to be applied to the ceiling.

Step 1. Mix the paint, add water to it, if necessary according to the instructions, mix, pour into the bath. If there is a lot of paint, then you can use an electric drill with a mixer attachment for mixing. This must be done at low speeds so as not to whip the paint into foam. Some paint formulations need to be strained. This can be done using a nylon stocking or gauze.

Step 2. Paint with a brush the corners and places near the joints with the walls along the perimeter of the ceiling. The strip should be as narrow as possible - 7-8 centimeters. Process others hard to reach places behind the radiator pipes, around the wiring.

Step 3. Apply the first coat with a roller, applying stripes perpendicular to the window, from one wall to the other. You need to paint with wide, confident movements, making parallel stripes, with an overlap of several centimeters. You should act quickly without breaks or breaks, otherwise the composition will lie unevenly in places where there are breaks.

Step 4. Wait until the first coat of paint dries (usually no more than 2 hours).

Step 5. Evaluate the result. After applying the first layer it is still difficult to draw conclusions, but you can already notice unpainted areas.

Step 6. Apply a second coat of paint. Now the stripes should be applied parallel to the window, that is, layers of paint should be alternated in a perpendicular direction. Use a lamp to check the uniformity of the coating and carefully touch up the missed areas, if any.

Step 7. Wait for it to dry and apply the 3rd layer.

Important! When choosing the direction of painting, you must proceed from the following principles: the last layer must be done moving towards the window, with strokes along the sunlight, and each layer must be perpendicular to the previous one.

It is this application technique that will allow you to create a smooth, clean, uniform ceiling. It is better to apply the last layer with a new roller.

The most common problems and ways to solve them

Despite its apparent simplicity, painting the ceiling does not tolerate even the slightest carelessness. Most often, unsightly spots and stains remain on the surface, which appear especially clearly in bright light. The reasons are:

  • poor surface preparation (the ceiling is not level, contrasting spots remain);
  • non-compliance with painting technology.

In the first case, you will have to leave everything as is, or strip off the paint to the base and start the work again. In the second, you can try to correct the situation: apply another layer of more liquid paint, having previously sanded the surface with fine sandpaper. Did not help? Everything will have to be redone. To prevent this from happening, when painting you need to pay attention to the following points:

  • the composition must be mixed very well, otherwise the tone of the ceiling may not be uniform;
  • the paint should saturate the roller evenly, for which it needs to be dipped and squeezed several times until it completely absorbs the mixture. They need to roll, not spread, paint on the ceiling;
  • the paint should not be too thick, otherwise streaks may appear;
  • there is no need to evaluate the exact result before drying: a “wet” ceiling looks completely different than a dry one;
  • the next layer should be applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Sometimes the paint starts to peel off. This is possible if the paint was too thick, applied in a thick layer, or the ceiling was poorly prepared. It is necessary to remove the peeling material, wash the surface, dry, prime and paint again.

Among the variety of finishing materials for the ceiling, the first place is occupied by the well-known water-based emulsion - affordable in price, not requiring special skills in operation and elegantly austere in design.

Painting the ceiling with water-based paint has its pros and cons. The advantages include:

  • no unpleasant stench;
  • the smell of dampness disappears after airing;
  • whitewash components are non-toxic;
  • easy to use (easy to dilute, stir, tint and apply);
  • the ability to get any color after adding color;
  • easily washed off from the body, clothes, floor;
  • can be done by non-professionals - it is possible to whitewash the ceiling with water-based paint yourself;
  • low cost of finishing;
  • combination with various types and types of interior.

The disadvantage is:

  • inability to tolerate low temperatures— under the influence of frost, the paint surface may crack;
  • large labor costs in preparing the ceiling for whitewashing;
  • the painted surface quickly becomes dirty and loses its original appearance.

Preparing for painting

Whitewashing the ceiling using old paint or wallpaper is possible, which is why many people do it. However, the result of such a decision will be visible literally the next day: the snow-white surface of the ceiling with a different structure of applied paint immediately catches the eye and neutralizes the entire effect of the repairs.

To matte or glossy ceiling looked aesthetically pleasing, it must first be prepared for painting. The whole process step by step preparatory work as follows:

  • walls, floors, windows and doors are protected from dust with plastic film;
  • previous ones are removed Decoration Materials(paint, wallpaper, tiles);
  • surface ceiling repaired and, if necessary, reinforced with fiberglass;
  • the ceiling is treated with a primer and then puttied.

The entire preparation process is described in detail in the article “”

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you must purchase in advance:

  • primer for painting (“Knauf”, “Prospectors”, “Optimist” or “Ceresit”);
  • white water-based whitewash (taken in one batch - nuances in color tones are possible);
  • masking tape (krepp);
  • cuvette;
  • construction tape;
  • a brush 5–8 cm wide for painting hard-to-reach places;
  • a small brush (with its help you can correct the paint in corners and near heating pipes);
  • set of paint rollers.

For large volumes of painting work, you can use a spray gun with a compressor or a spray gun with a paint sprayer. In addition, you will need:

  • polyethylene film to protect walls, floors and furniture from paint splashes;
  • construction tape;
  • ladder;
  • mixer based on an electric drill or screwdriver;
  • container for mixing paint;
  • old clothes with a hat and glasses.

Selection and preparation of water-based paint

The external perception and service life of whitewash depend on the type of water-based emulsion. Just 20-30 years ago, the choice was limited only by paint tone. Today you can buy it for any operating conditions.

Water-based ceiling paints are a dispersed water-based emulsion of water, coloring pigments and insoluble tiny suspended particles of polymer materials, forming a thin polymer film on the painted surface after the solvent evaporates (the paint layer dries). Various impurities can also be added to the composition, changing the characteristics of the paint.

Depending on the additives, the water-based emulsion may be.

1. According to the level of hygroscopicity:

  • for dry rooms (bedroom, living room, children's room);
  • damp (corridor, hallway);
  • with high humidity levels (bathroom, kitchen, toilet).

2. Gloss levels:

  • matte (the room visually appears larger, but even the smallest paint defects are visible and difficult to clean);
  • semi-matte;
  • glossy (all flaws are visible, but washes well);
  • semi-gloss.

The best option is a semi-matte or semi-gloss surface.

3. Care options:

  • unsuitable for wet cleaning (clean with a vacuum cleaner or dry cloth);
  • indelible (can be washed without using special products);
  • washable (withstands treatment with detergents).

Depending on the insoluble particles, the water emulsion is:

  • mineral;
  • acrylic;
  • silicate;
  • silicone.

Mineral whitewashing is the most cheap look paint and varnish products. It is made on the basis of cement or lime. Has good adhesion to concrete, brick, plasterboard, wood and other materials.

At the same time, it also has a number of disadvantages - hygroscopicity, which does not allow painting in damp rooms, impossibility of cleaning wet method And short term services - which led to a sharp drop in its popularity.

Water-based emulsion acrylic- the most popular paint on the building materials market. Here are the most optimal combination prices and quality - she has long term operation, low consumption per 1 m2 of painted surface (good hiding power), ability to close microcracks up to 1 mm wide, can be washed with a damp cloth.

When applied in 3 layers, larger flaws are also hidden, for example, cracks up to 2 mm wide. Availability acrylic resins as part of the paint allows the painted surface to withstand significant mechanical influences and large differences in temperature and humidity.

The disadvantage is the formation of a vapor-proof layer, which makes it impossible to paint a poorly dried surface.

At the core silicate paints liquid glass. Her low popularity low price and long service life (20 years or more) is due to the low moisture resistance of painted surfaces (bathrooms, kitchens, corridors cannot be painted).

Silicone dye consists of water, color pigments and silicone resins. This is the latest achievement in the construction industry. It is characterized by waterproofness, elasticity, resistance to mechanical and natural influences, long service life, high aesthetic properties, etc.

At the same time, the highest quality of the product corresponds to the most high price among similar paints.

Main characteristics water-based whitewash tabulated.

Properties / Types of paintsAcrylicSilicateSiliconeMineral
Vapor permeability++ +++++ +++ +++++
CO2 permeability++ +++++ +++ +++++
Film strength+++++ ++++ ++++ ++++
Color fastness+++ ++++ +++++ +++
Fire resistance+ +++ ++ +++++
Elasticity+++++ ++++ ++++ +++
Resistance to washing off+++++ ++++ +++++ ++
Mold resistance+++ +++++ +++ +++
Manufacturability+++++ ++++ +++++ +++
Color palette+++++ ++++ +++++ +++
Hygroscopicity+++++ + + +++

Property level:

  • +++++ - high.
  • ++++ - good.
  • +++ - average.
  • ++ - bad.
  • + - practically absent.

Which roller to paint with?

Most of the painting is done on your own. paint rollers— purchasing a spray gun or compressor for small areas to be painted is not feasible from an economic point of view.

On the shelves construction stores you can find a variety of rollers:

  • faux fur with short, medium and long pile;
  • foam rubber;
  • velor

Many inexperienced repairmen do not pay attention to which roller to paint the ceiling with water-based paint, and buy the cheapest kits. But there are some secrets here:

  • velor roller does not absorb water-based paint well - Finishing work will take time due to slow coloring;
  • foam rubber leaves small bubbles on the ceiling;
  • short-pile faux fur gets splashed heavily with very fine paint particles.

Therefore, the ceiling should be painted with a medium to long pile roller made from faux fur. In this case, the fibers should fit well (not come out of the base when twitching), the seam should run diagonally and not stand out.

Padding

Painting the ceiling with water-based emulsion requires it pre-treatment primer. Most apartment owners who do this work themselves skip this stage and apply a layer of paint and varnish directly onto the putty or the base of the ceiling, by analogy with the wall.

Having received a slightly different quality, they cannot understand that physical forces manifest themselves in completely different ways on the wall and ceiling. If the wall is not primed with paint, its adhesion to the painted surface will still be sufficient for long-term service. On the ceiling, the paint tends to fall down under the influence of its weight, forming bubbles, streaks and cracks as it dries.

Application of primer allows:

  • improve adhesion between the ceiling and paint material;
  • reduce paint consumption;
  • strengthen the floor surface;
  • protect the ceiling from various fungi and mold;
  • increase the reliability and durability of the treated surface.

The primer must be chosen to match the white base: suitable for acrylic acrylic primer, for silicate - silicate, etc. On a ceiling without putty, the primer is applied with a brush in 2-3 layers, and the solution should be rubbed into the surface of the ceiling. The putty can be primed with a roller - 2 passes are enough.

You can also prime the ceiling with paint diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2. This is much worse than a special primer, but much better than no primer at all.

Coloring instructions

How to paint a ceiling with water-based paint? There is nothing complicated in this process. You just need to follow a few simple rules.

  • Painting begins after the primer has completely dried. If you break the rule, the paint simply won’t stick to the ceiling.
  • With 2 passes 1st layer paint coating applied across the light stream from the window. The second is parallel to the light (see diagram).

If you plan to resort to 3 layers of whitewash, then the 1st layer of paint is laid from the window, perpendicular to its plane, the 2nd - across the first layer, the 3rd - just like the first, parallel to the light, but the work begins at the far wall and are directed towards the window, which is clearly visible in the diagram.

  • Each subsequent layer is applied to a completely dry surface - at least 12 hours.
  • It is better to do work in the evenings - Sun rays(ultraviolet) is left on the undried paint dark spots. When working during the day, windows should be covered with film or cloth.
  • Drafts lead to streaks due to uneven drying of the paint layer. The same thing happens when drying the ceiling with electric heaters.
  • Applying a layer of paint should take 15-20 minutes. Therefore, breaks and smoking breaks are not allowed.
  • Each coat of paint must be applied with a new roller. Trying to wash it under the tap cold water won't let you get high quality whitewash (careful owners do not throw away the washed roller - it can be useful for working with oil types paints).

Whitewashing with a roller

You can whitewash the ceiling with a roller, paint sprayer and brush. Each technology has its own characteristics. How to whitewash a ceiling with water-based paint without streaks using a roller? You just have to stick to the technology that has been developed over the years:

  • Seal the joint between the ceiling and the walls with masking tape along the entire perimeter.
  • Protect wallpaper, furniture and floors from paint splashes with plastic film.
  • Prepare the paint for use. This can be simple stirring or diluting with water to the required consistency. How to correctly perform this stage of work (dilute or simply stir) can be read in the instructions printed on the packaging.

For reference: experienced painters advise diluting the water-based emulsion a little stronger for the 1st layer than is written in the instructions.

It is better to stir with a mixer. If small grains appear on the surface of the paint during its operation, the water-based emulsion must be cleaned. To do this, you need to strain it through gauze folded in 3 layers.

  • Using a wide brush, paint over the boundary where the ceiling meets the wall, as well as areas inaccessible to the roller (near the heating pipes). The width of the passage is 8-10 cm. In order for the water-based emulsion to lay down in an even layer, the brush is dipped into it 1/3, after which it is pressed against the edge of the jar to remove excess. If this is not done, the paint will definitely start to drip down and run down the handle of the brush. At the same time, it is difficult to rub a large amount of paint into a thin layer over the surface of the ceiling.
  • Pour the whitewash into a ditch (you can use a basin with a clean piece of oilcloth, hardboard or linoleum spread nearby) and wet the roller around the entire circumference. To do this, it is dipped in paint and rolled over the ribbed surface of the cuvette (oilcloth, linoleum, etc.) until the entire surface is evenly saturated with the water-based emulsion. If you skip this operation, weakly painted areas will form on the ceiling, invisible when wet (professionals call them “unpainted areas”).
  • Wet part of the roller and, lightly pressing it against the edges of the tray, distribute the paint over the entire surface of the pile. You need to start painting from the corner according to the diagram. The width of the strip is no more than 50 cm. Painting should proceed in the direction of movement of the roller. The stripes are applied with an overlap of 5-10 cm. The roller handle should make an angle of 45 degrees to the ceiling surface - when the roller is above your head, control over the tight fit of the pile to the surface to be painted along the entire length of the roller disappears.
  • Quality control must be carried out either by a beam of light from a flashlight or by changing the painter’s viewing angle, for which he needs to look at the painted area from the side. Paint deposits are removed with a worn-out roller - the pile will absorb excess water-based emulsion. Marks from the roller when working overlapping are removed with a dry (used) roller using W-shaped movements as the painting progresses.

During operation, as the dye is consumed, the pressure on the roller should increase. You can start the second layer no earlier than 12 hours, until the paint is completely dry.

Spray painting

Working with a spray gun not only gives excellent painting results, but also brings satisfaction from the process itself - it is easy and pleasant. For high-quality painting you need:

  1. Dilute the water emulsion. What is acceptable for a roller and brush is not suitable for a paint sprayer - the mixture should be thinner;
  2. Strain the paint - small particles often clog the nozzle. During the repair, the painted areas dry out. Continuation of work is impossible without fresh paint coming into contact with already dried paint, as a result of which the boundaries will be clearly visible. To remove them, you will have to wait until the applied layer has completely dried and wipe the visible defects with fine sandpaper. The second layer will hide errors in work;
  3. Adjust the paint supply by painting an unnecessary object for 20-30 seconds - at first the spray gun throws out a lot of dye;
  4. Painting begins after the paint flow has stabilized. The nozzle is kept at a distance of about half a meter from the ceiling. Move at a speed of 1 m in 5 seconds. The inclination of the nozzle must be constant, preferably perpendicular to the surface being painted;
  5. You need to paint in sections: first with movements in one direction, then across them, after which they move on to the next square. The pace is even. A slight delay will result in a thick layer of paint that will take a long time to work with. It is better to underpaint than to overpaint - subsequent layers will cover up the “underpainting”;
  6. The best result is obtained by applying 3 layers of whitewash.

Painting with a brush

Those nostalgic for the old days paint the ceiling with a brush. Here, no matter how hard you try, the finishing result will be much worse: strokes and stains are visible. At the same time, paint consumption increases: something will drip onto the floor, something will remain in a thicker layer of paint.

The technology is applicable in utility rooms, garages, and workshops. When agreeing to use a brush, you need to take into account the working time - it will be 3-4 times longer.

How to avoid stains

The headache of any painter is the appearance of streaks. This problem is especially acute for beginners in the painting business. How to paint a ceiling with water-based paint without streaks? First, strictly follow technological process painting. Secondly, follow these tips:

  • remove everything heating devices(this especially applies to lighting on the ceiling), turn off the batteries or cover them up during work;
  • prevent drafts;
  • conduct constant monitoring of the quality of painting either with the help of light or move to the side, changing the viewing angle;
  • do not interrupt work for smoke breaks and respites;
  • do not paint directly above your head;
  • do not jump from place to place.

Following the technology allows even a beginner to get a perfectly painted ceiling surface.

Video on the topic



Among all types finishing painting the ceiling with water-based paint is the most common option. But what is typical, when it comes to this method, for some reason they mean exclusively a concrete floor with a prepared perfect condition surface. But this is not so.

Eat different materials bases for which painting with water-based paint is, if not the only, then one of the main types of finishing:

  • ceilings with a leveling layer of plaster or putty;
  • concrete floors in “pure” form;
  • false ceilings made of wood;
  • suspended plasterboard systems;
  • glass wallpaper;
  • stretch fabric ceilings.

The list of works at the initial stage depends on which option we are talking about.

Preparing the concrete base

Technologically, the most difficult type of work is leveling the floor to an ideal smooth surface. The full cycle looks like this:

  • remove the old coating: wash off the whitewash, peel off the paint or remove the wallpaper;
  • for plastered ceilings - remove crumbling areas and strengthen with deep penetration primer;
  • clean off traces of rust (if they appear from a nearby surface of the reinforcement) and treat the area with an anti-corrosion compound;
  • if there is fungus or mold, then carry out full cycle treatment, up to the removal of the entire infected area of ​​plaster or putty;
  • level the entire surface thin layer finishing mortar, which is sanded after drying;
  • clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner;
  • primed.

Preparation for painting looks much easier concrete floor for interior in loft style. It just needs to be cleaned of any type of finish, including the layer of plaster. And then from the entire list of works, only one thing falls out - leveling the surface. But it is precisely this that is the most labor-intensive and difficult when performing ceiling repairs.

Wooden ceilings

Many interior styles use wood ceilings. And not all of them are coated with clear varnish (with or without tinting - it doesn’t matter). Designers often resort to painting hem (or hanging) wooden ceiling colored water-based paints for wood. For example, in the Provence style - this is any pastel shade of blue, light green or beige.

There are also two options for preparing to paint a wooden ceiling with water-based paint yourself.

In the first case, the boards or slats are sanded, a layer of colorless wood primer (with antiseptic properties) is applied and painted. Unlike concrete or plaster, here there can be only one layer of paint so that the texture of natural wood appears through it.

In the second case, you can do without grinding. For example, when using unedged boards for cladding in the interior “ country style", "loft" or rustic.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings

This type also requires leveling the surface, although this is one of the purposes of the structure itself.

It is necessary to putty either part of the surface or the entire ceiling.

But first it is necessary to strengthen the seams and corner joints of the sheets (for multi-level ceilings), so that cracks do not appear on the decorative layer of paint. At flat joints this is done using serpyanka tape, at ribs - with a perforated corner.

Partial puttying of the surface is carried out for simple painting of the ceiling. In this case, the points of attachment of the gypsum boards to the profiles and the reinforcement points are covered and leveled to the general level.

It is recommended to completely putty the surface when covering the ceiling with wallpaper for painting. Although this is not necessary. The only advantage is that this technique makes it possible to next renovation remove the entire top decorative layer, keeping the drywall itself intact.

Preparation for painting glass wallpaper and fabric ceilings

Perhaps these are the two simplest options.

If glass wallpaper was once glued, then the task is how to update the ceiling painted with water-based paint. In this case, on initial stage either dry cleaning to remove dust, or wet cleaning to remove more heavy pollution. Applying a primer is necessary if the new color is very different from the previous one.

Fabric coloring stretch ceiling often used for both new and old canvas.

In the first case, the reason is the small palette of the source material, which is limited to light matte shades. And if for design reasons you need a rich or bright color, then the fabric is painted. Manufacturers claim that this can be done 4-5 times.

The same motivation most often applies to painting an old stretch ceiling. Although this same method allows you not only to change the color to a new one, but also to restore the old one if it has been damaged in some places.

And for fabric ceilings the entire preparation procedure is dry or wet cleaning coverings.

Types of paint

There are four main types of paint that use water as a solvent:

  • Polyvinyl acetate.

Already from the name it is clear that the same group of polymers as PVA glue is used as a binder. This is the least expensive category, but the least durable. Paints are afraid of water and high humidity, they quickly fade and begin to “peele”.

  • Silicate.

Another group, related in its binding to the glue of the same name. They belong to mineral water-soluble paints. Supplied in the form of two components - the dry part containing pigments and potassium liquid glass. They have good adhesion to all mineral surfaces, so they are often used when painting cement (cement-lime), gypsum or silicate plaster and concrete. The coating is characterized by good vapor permeability and resistance to moisture.

  • Silicone.

They have good hiding power and elasticity - can be applied even without a primer layer. Excellent vapor permeability is combined with resistance to fungal attack. The main area of ​​use is the coloring of mineral substrates operating in high humidity. The wide application is limited by the price, which is the highest among water-soluble paints.

  • Acrylic.

One of the most popular and durable. They are versatile - suitable for any type of base. Due to the drying properties of the hydroxyl group, the structure of the film is akin to crystalline - with high strength and resistance to any type of impact. The pigments are not on the surface, but inside the layer, so the effect of coloring is created in the mass - the coating does not fade, does not wash off, does not wear off. Additives are responsible for adhesion and determine the degree of gloss.

Among them may be latex, which increases the elasticity of the film and its resistance to temperature changes - this type is used for painting fabric stretch ceilings.

Technologies and tools

To create a “smooth” monochrome coating, a standard set of tools is used:

  • brushes;
  • rollers;
  • spray gun.

The most even layer is obtained by using a spray gun. Usually they use diluted and strained paint, in a more “liquid form” than when working with a brush or roller. This reduces its coverage, so sometimes even the second layer is not enough. An exception is painting the ceiling with water-based paint layer by layer. old paint the same color.

The disadvantage of this method is the need to completely protect all surfaces and the entire “contents” of the room. It is not enough to cover only the adjacent part of the wall - a suspension of microscopic droplets will fall on any open object in the room. Therefore, it will not be possible to quickly “refresh” the ceiling - this method is good when carrying out a full-fledged repair: in empty room, with a standard top-down finishing sequence

If we talk about how to paint the ceiling correctly - only with a brush or only with a roller, then you need to use both types of tools in combination. They work in stages. First, “thinly”, painting corners and baseboards with a brush. Then paint the ceiling with water-based paint using a roller.

The first secret of painting is the correct direction of movement with a brush and roller:

  • For two layers. The first is across the ceiling relative to the window, the second is towards it. If the room has two walls with windows, then choose the interior door as a guide.
  • For three layers. The first - towards the window, the second - across, the third - again along.

The second secret is to thoroughly mix all the paint and be sure to strain so that there are no lumps.

Third, if the ceiling area is large and you will have to use several cans of paint to paint several layers, then you need to make sure that they are all from the same batch. At least for the last layer.

How to paint a rough ceiling

How to evenly paint a rough ceiling surface? You don’t have to try to “repair” it to make it perfectly even. There are simpler and easier methods.

Decorative paints with three-dimensional texture. For example, multicolor. They consist of a colorless polymer binder and multi-colored soft particles. The paint is applied with a roller or brush, and then the grains of filler are “pressed” with a soft spatula.

The second method is to use decorative painting by using special tool. It can be relief rollers for knurling or sponges in the form of a set of sponges with large pores. In this case, two colors of paint are used: the first for the “base”, the second for the top layer.

The most common way to decorate a ceiling is to whitewash or paint it. And the most used paint for this is water-based paint. Painting the ceiling with water-based paint at first glance seems simple, but there are many subtleties, ignorance of which leads to the appearance of spots or streaks. We will tell you further how to avoid such troubles.

Preparing for painting

In order for self-painting of the ceiling with water-based paint to be high-quality and uniform, it is necessary preliminary preparation ceiling. Uniform coloring can only be achieved on a flat, puttied surface. Therefore, before starting work, you need to clean the ceiling from any previous coating (with the exception of water-based emulsion, which holds up very well).

How to remove whitewash

If you have whitewash on the ceiling - chalk or lime - you need to moisten the ceiling with water and remove the coating with a spatula. They clean everything down to concrete. Even the smallest fragments must be removed. Sometimes it is very inconvenient to scrape small areas with a spatula; it is easier to do this with a wet cloth.

In any case, after removing the whitewash, the ceiling must be washed with water detergent. After complete drying, prime and putty with gypsum or cement (preferably white) putty until smooth, which is also called “egg-like.”

How to remove old water emulsion

If the ceiling has already been painted with water-based emulsion, you won’t be able to simply remove it. The procedure depends on how the paint adheres to the ceiling. If it just changed color and you need to renew the ceiling, there are no swelling, cracks or other similar problems, you can get by with a little blood. First, remove the dust (with a cloth and water), dry it, then prime it. After the primer has dried, you can paint it. But once again we draw attention to the fact that this procedure is used only if the water-based emulsion holds well and there are no defects.

Cleaning waterproof emulsion from the ceiling is still a pleasure

If there are cracks or swellings on the surface of the water-based emulsion, it must be cleaned off. There are two ways - dry and wet. Dry means cleaning with sandpaper (manually or using an angle grinder), wet means rinsing off. This method must be used for paint that is not afraid of water. But it is very difficult to remove such paint. If water-based paint holds up well, no tricks help, but there are surface defects and putty is needed, take sandpaper with coarse grain and make the surface rough. After this you can putty. Next - according to technology: we prime and then paint.

Wash off the ceiling painted with water-based emulsion by wetting it generously twice. hot water. The water should be almost boiling water - about 70°C. After wetting part of the ceiling, wait 10 minutes, then wet the same area again with hot water. After about five minutes you can remove the paint with a spatula.

Removing old paint is a lengthy process

You can repeat this procedure several times, gradually removing loose paint from the ceiling. Small residues can be sanded off, and then the ceiling can be washed, dried and primed. You can putty and sand over the primer, smoothing out imperfections.

Types of water-based paint

Water-based paint is a water-based emulsion that contains polymer particles undissolved in water. The composition also includes pigments and various additives that change the characteristics of the final product. After applying the paint, active evaporation of water occurs and a thin polymer film remains on the surface.

Painting the ceiling with water-based paint begins with choosing the composition. They use four types of polymers:

  • Acrylic. An aqueous emulsion based on acrylic resins allows you to obtain a smooth surface, has good hiding power, and hides small surface defects, even cracks up to 1 mm wide. Its disadvantage is its high price, but it is easier to work with. In its purest form acrylic compositions They are hygroscopic and can only be used for dry rooms, but they do not interfere with the passage of steam. To create a waterproof film, latex is added to the acrylic water-based emulsion. The same additive increases the elasticity of the dried film. Such compositions can be used in damp areas.

    Water emulsion on acrylic base- a smart choice

  • Silicates. This type of water-based paint is based on liquid glass. The coating is resistant to precipitation and at the same time does not interfere with the removal of vapors, has a long service life (10 years or more), and can be used for outdoor work.

    Silicate paints are vapor-tight

  • Minerals - lime or cement. Mineral water-based emulsions have good adhesion to any surface, but are quickly washed off. As a result, they are gradually losing popularity.

  • Silicone. Silicone-based water emulsions are the latest achievement in the industry. These compounds are good because they “tighten” cracks up to 2 mm thick. As a result, the surface painted by them, even without excellent preparation It turns out even and smooth. The film turns out dense, but vapor-permeable. Silicone water-based emulsion can be used to paint ceilings in bathrooms and other wet areas. The disadvantage of this type of paint is its high price.

Latex can be added to any of the compositions. Latex water-based paint is water-repellent. It is not afraid of moisture and can be used in damp rooms.

Based on the main characteristics of these compositions, you can choose for yourself best type water-based paint. Each case requires its own properties and the “best water emulsion” is different each time.

What primer to use

A primer is necessary for better adhesion of the paint to the surface being painted. It allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks and blisters after the paint dries. If there is no primer, this can happen. You'll have to clean everything off and putty again. Because in order for painting the ceiling with water-based paint to be of high quality, the surface must be well primed.

The base of the primer should match the base paint. Under acrylic paint A water-based emulsion requires the same primer; a silicone primer needs one based on silicones, etc. Moreover, it is advisable not to save: the quality of this composition determines how smoothly the water-based emulsion will lie on the ceiling.

Eat economical way primers: the base paint is diluted with water (1 to 2) and the surfaces are painted with this mixture a couple of times. It's certainly better than nothing, but the primer gives a better grip.

How to paint a ceiling with water-based emulsion with your own hands

Each of the water-based paints has instructions for use on the can. The operating procedure is described there. Some compositions just need to be stirred well before use: undissolved polymers may settle at the bottom of the jar. Some formulations require dilution. The amount of water added is also specified in the instructions and depends on the application method. For spray guns, the dilution is stronger; when using a roller, thicker formulations are required.

When diluting the emulsion with water, add it in small portions. Stir thoroughly and try on a surface area. If the paint goes on evenly and almost completely covers the base, you can paint.

It is more convenient to pour the paint into a special container with a tray and a ribbed platform. You can use a regular basin and a clean piece of oilcloth spread nearby. It's not as convenient, but less expensive.

Which roller to choose

A roller for painting the ceiling with water-based emulsion is needed with dense short pile. You need to examine him carefully. The pile should “sit” firmly and under no circumstances should it “climb out”, even if you pull on it. Then inspect how the seam is made. Under no circumstances should he stand out. It must be difficult to find. It is best if it is made obliquely.

Pay maximum attention to choosing a roller: the quality of painting - the absence of stripes on the ceiling - largely depends on how good a tool you have chosen. It is more convenient to whiten the ceiling with water-based emulsion not from a stepladder, but from the floor. To do this, the roller is placed on a long handle and secured well.

How to paint without streaks

To avoid streaks on the ceiling, painting the ceiling with water-based paint should be completed no later than in 20 minutes. Immediately after application, water begins to actively absorb/evaporate and stripes appear at the junction of the dried and “fresh” paint. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare the room. It is necessary to turn off (wrap up) the heating radiators and prevent a draft. It is also advisable to wash the floor immediately before whitewashing; even if you work during the day, turn on the lighting, this will allow you to better control the quality of the paint. Afterwards you can start working.

Ready-to-use water-based paint is poured into a container, a roller is dipped into it, then rolled well over the site, achieving uniform distribution over the entire surface. When the roller has a uniform color, they begin to paint.

The corners are painted first with a brush. After applying a little paint, take a small roller and roll it out well. Then they begin to paint the main surface. The first layer is applied parallel to the window, the second - perpendicular.

You need to stand so that you look at the area to be painted at an angle. This will give you a good look at how evenly the paint has spread, as well as where you have already painted and where you haven't. Move systematically, without jumping from one piece to another.

The width of the strip painted at a time is slightly larger than the width of the roller. After wetting the roller, place it approximately in the middle of the strip. Quickly roll the paint in both directions from one wall to the other. Don't waste a lot of time: you don't have much of it. On average, the water emulsion dries in 10-20 seconds. If you didn’t have time to apply the strip next to it before, the border will be clearly visible, which you won’t get rid of. Having distributed the paint more or less evenly over the strip, dip the roller into the paint and roll it out again from the middle of the ceiling. At the same time, go beyond the already painted strip by about 10 cm. All this at a good pace without stops and smoke breaks. The edges of the painted strip should not dry out. In general, these are all the rules.

After applying the first coat of paint, some areas may not be painted as well. You need to wait for it to dry completely and paint it a second time. This should already be enough to get flat surface. If even after the third layer of water-based paint you still have streaks and stains on the ceiling, you will have to redo it again. It is necessary to level the surface with sandpaper, prime it again and paint again.

What color

The easiest way to achieve perfect evenness is to use “snow-white” paint. All pigments clearly highlight even small irregularities, so you need to pay maximum attention to the process or use an acrylic or silicone-based water emulsion.

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