Brick is the most common material for constructing load-bearing walls. It is successfully used both in multi-storey industrial construction and in private low-rise buildings. The only drawback of brick is its low thermal insulation qualities. To solve this problem, it is made additional insulation walls Brickwork with insulation inside makes it possible to build a warm house with minimum costs time and finances.

Disadvantages of masonry without insulation

More recently, the issue of thermal insulation of brick buildings was solved in a simple way - by increasing the thickness of the wall. Yes, for middle zone The usual wall thickness was 3 - 3.5 bricks, and in the northern regions it could reach 1 - 1.5 m. This is due to the high thermal conductivity coefficient of the brick, which causes large heat losses.

It was so thick forced measure in the absence of effective and inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Another factor promoting the use of “thick wall” technology in Soviet times was the relative cheapness of bricks. This made it possible to simplify masonry technology by eliminating the use of thermal insulation materials.

However, recently this approach has become too wasteful from a financial point of view: in addition to the cost of bricks, the costs of arranging reinforced foundations are increasing.

Another problem that you may encounter when arranging brickwork without thermal insulation - the dew point shifts indoors.

In construction, the dew point is the point inside or outside the outdoor walls of a building where the cooled vapor contained in the air begins to condense. The transformation of steam into dew occurs upon contact warm air with cold surfaces.

The most preferable option is to locate the dew point outside the building, in which case the condensing moisture will simply evaporate under the influence of wind and sun. It is much worse if the dew point is shifted indoors. Dampness that forms on the inner surfaces of walls negatively affects the microclimate in the house, becoming a source of high humidity and the cause of mold and mildew.

During winter frosts, walls that are not insulated are cooled to their entire thickness, as a result of which steam condensation occurs on their internal surfaces.

In areas where sub-zero temperatures are established in the cold season, the technology of laying bricks with insulation is the only acceptable one.

Three-layer masonry

One of the types of insulated walls is three-layer brickwork. Its design looks like this:

Internal wall made of brick, cinder blocks, aerated concrete, etc. Performs a load-bearing function for interfloor ceilings and roofs of the building.
. The insulation is placed in internal cavities-wells between the outer and inner walls. Protects the inner wall from freezing during the cold season.
External wall with brick cladding. Performs decorative functions, giving the facade additional aesthetics.

On the image:

No. 1 - interior decoration.

No. 2 - load-bearing wall of the building.

No. 3 - insulation between brickwork.

No. 4 - ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the facing wall.

№5 - outer wall with brick lining.

No. 6 - internal reinforcement connecting the internal and external walls.

Brickwork with insulation inside, like others construction technologies, has its pros and cons. Its positive qualities include:

Smaller volume of masonry, which allows you to reduce the estimated cost by saving on the amount of building material.
Less weight of the building, which makes it possible to use lighter and less expensive foundations.
High thermal insulation performance, allowing you to retain heat in winter time.
Improved sound insulation. The thermal insulation layer can significantly reduce the noise level, which is especially important if the building is located on a central street with heavy traffic.
External walls lined with decorative bricks do not require additional decorative finishing.

Among the disadvantages of multi-layer walls are:

Greater labor intensity associated with insulation, compared to brickwork of 3 - 3.5 bricks.
Three-layer walls do not allow periodic replacement of insulation, while its service life is always shorter than its service life brick walls.

Choice of insulation

A wide range of insulation materials that meet the recommendations of SNiP can be used as a heat-insulating material.

Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the material must be such as to ensure protection of interior spaces at the maximum minus values typical for a given region.

You can familiarize yourself with the thermal insulation performance of insulation in the manufacturer’s instructions on its packaging or in the tables technical characteristics SNiP. By comparing these indicators with winter minimum temperatures, you can calculate the required thickness of the insulation layer.

Secondly, the insulation must have sufficient vapor permeability. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside it, which will lead to its loss of thermal insulation qualities.

And thirdly, internal insulation must be fire resistant. Due to its non-flammability, it will not only not support combustion, but will also create a fire-retardant layer inside the masonry.

Mineral wool

A large family of insulation materials based on mineral fibers have excellent heat-saving characteristics. They are made by churning molten minerals in a centrifuge: glass, basalt, slag, etc. The low level of heat transfer in this case is achieved due to the high porosity of the material - air layers do not allow cold to penetrate through the mineral wool.

Absolutely not flammable, but very afraid of dampness. When wet, it almost completely loses its heat-saving properties, so when laying it, care must be taken to ensure effective waterproofing.

Expanded polystyrene

Foam is another thermal insulation material often used in three-layer masonry.

It is produced by saturating liquid polystyrene with air, which after hardening takes the form of porous round granules. To fill wells in the wall, it can be used in the form of sheets or as bulk material. It is much less afraid of dampness than mineral wool, but unlike it it is flammable, so walls insulated with polystyrene foam should be protected from open fire. Even if the fire does not damage the brickwork, it will cause burnout and melting of the polystyrene foam inside it. To replace the insulation, you will have to carry out labor-intensive and expensive work to dismantle the facing part of the wall.

Bulk insulation

In private construction, sometimes three-layer masonry is made by backfilling internal wells with various mineral fillers: slag, expanded clay, etc. This technique is somewhat cheaper and simpler than laying mini-slabs or expanded polystyrene sheets, but its effectiveness is much lower. This is due to the lower thermal protection of slag and expanded clay.

Slag is very hygroscopic - it tends to absorb and retain moisture, which can cause an increase in its thermal conductivity and premature destruction of adjacent layers of brick.

Laying three-layer walls

Laying a wall with insulation is carried out in several stages.

Laying the interior wall. Produced using the same technologies as conventional masonry load-bearing wall made of solid bricks or building blocks. Depending on the minimum winter temperatures, it can be 1 or 1.5 bricks thick.
External wall masonry with cladding. It is carried out in such a way that there is a gap between it and the inner wall necessary for laying or backfilling the insulation - a well. 2 walls can be connected to each other either by connections from anchor bolts and reinforcement, or brick ligation, carried out at certain intervals.
needed to protect the insulation from dampness, since it is impossible to completely prevent the flow of moisture through the brick.
Filling wells fill insulation produced when the walls reach a height of 0.8 - 1 m. Sheet and roll insulation attached to interior wall using mushroom dowels with a wide plastic cap, after which it is closed with external facing masonry.

For the construction of a waterproofing layer, it is not recommended to use “blind” materials, such as roofing felt. This will eliminate the possibility of free gas exchange between the external environment and interior spaces Houses. In the outer wall every 0.5 - 1 m should be left ventilation ducts- vertical seams between bricks that are not filled with mortar.

Three-layer brickwork allows you to solve many problems that arise when using housing in winter. The process of constructing such walls is shown in the video below..

Construction of a three-layer wall with brick cladding

In low-rise construction, the design of an external three-layer wall is very popular: load-bearing wall - insulation-brick cladding (120 mm), Fig.1. This wall allows you to use effective for each layer materials.

Bearing wall made of brick or concrete blocks, is the strength frame of the building.

Insulation layer. fixed to the wall, provides the necessary level of thermal insulation of the outer wall.

Wall cladding from facing bricks protects the insulation from external influences and serves as a decorative covering for the wall.

Fig.1. Three-layer wall.
1 - interior decoration; 2 - load-bearing wall; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - ventilated gap; 5 - brick cladding; 6 - flexible connections

Multilayer walls also have disadvantages:

limited durability of the insulation material compared to the material of the load-bearing wall and cladding;
release of hazardous and harmful substances from insulation, albeit within acceptable limits;
the need to use special measures to protect the wall from blowing and moisture - vapor-tight, windproof coatings and ventilated gaps;
flammability polymer insulation;

Load-bearing wall in three-layer masonry

Insulation of house walls with mineral wool slabs

Mineral wool slabs are fixed on a load-bearing wall with a ventilated air gap between the surface of the slabs and the brick cladding, or without a gap, Fig. 1.

Calculations performed humidity conditions walls show that in three-layer walls Condensation in the insulation occurs during the cold season in almost all climatic zones of Russia.

The amount of condensate that falls varies, but for most regions it falls within the standards established by SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. There is no accumulation of condensate in the wall structure during a year-round cycle due to drying in the warm season, which is also a requirement of the specified SNiP.

As an example, the figures show graphs of the amount of condensate in the insulation based on the results of calculations for various options cladding of three-layer walls of a residential building in St. Petersburg.

Rice. 2. The result of calculating the humidity conditions of a wall with mineral wool insulation as a middle layer (expanded clay concrete - 250 mm, insulation -100 mm, brick -120 mm). Facing - ceramic brick without ventilation gap.

Rice. 3. The result of calculating the humidity conditions of a wall with mineral wool insulation and plaster coating (expanded clay concrete - 250 mm, insulation - 120 mm, plaster coating -10 mm). Facing - vapor permeable.

Rice. 4. The result of calculating the humidity conditions of a wall insulated with mineral wool slabs with a ventilated gap and a “siding” type coating (brick - 380 mm, insulation -120 mm, siding). Facing - ventilated facade.

The graphs above clearly show how the cladding barrier, which prevents ventilation of the outer surface of the mineral wool insulation, leads to an increase in the amount of condensation in the insulation. Although moisture accumulation in the insulation does not occur in the annual cycle, it when facing with bricks without a ventilation gap, a significant amount of water condenses and freezes in the insulation every year in winter, Fig.2. Moisture also accumulates in the layer adjacent to the insulation brick cladding

Moistening the insulation reduces its heat-shielding properties, which increases heating costs building.

In addition, when water freezes every year, it destroys the insulation and brickwork of the cladding. Moreover, cycles of freezing and thawing can occur repeatedly during the season. The insulation gradually crumbles, and the brickwork of the cladding collapses. I note that the frost resistance of ceramic bricks is only 50 - 75 cycles, and the frost resistance of insulation is not standardized.

Replacing insulation covered with brick cladding is expensive. Hydrophobized high-density mineral wool slabs are more durable under these conditions. But these plates also have a higher cost.

The amount of condensate is reduced or There is no condensation at all if provided better ventilation insulation surfaces - Fig.3 and 4.

Another way to eliminate condensation is to increase the vapor permeability resistance of the load-bearing wall. To do this, the surface of the load-bearing wall is covered with a vapor barrier film or thermal insulation boards with a vapor barrier applied to their surface are used. When mounting on a wall, the surface of the slabs covered with vapor barrier must be facing the wall.

The construction of a ventilated gap and sealing of walls with vapor-proof coatings complicate and increase the cost of wall construction. The consequences of dampening the insulation in the walls in winter are described above. So choose. For construction areas with harsh winter conditions, installing a ventilated gap may be economically feasible.

In walls with a ventilated gap, mineral wool boards with a density of at least 30-45 are used. kg/m 3, covered on one side with a windproof coating. When using slabs without wind protection on the outer surface of the thermal insulation, windproof coatings should be provided, for example, vapor-permeable membranes, fiberglass, etc.

In walls without a ventilated gap, it is recommended to use mineral wool boards with a density of 35-75 kg/m 3. In a wall design without a ventilated gap, thermal insulation boards are installed freely in a vertical position in the space between the main wall and the facing layer of brick. The supporting elements for the insulation are the fastenings provided for attaching the brick cladding to the load-bearing wall - reinforcing mesh, flexible connections.

In a wall with a ventilation gap, the insulation and windproof coating are attached to the wall using special dowels at the rate of 8 -12 dowels per 1 m 2 surfaces. The dowels must be buried in the thickness concrete walls at 35-50 mm, brick - by 50 mm, in masonry made of hollow bricks and lightweight concrete blocks - by 90 mm.

Insulation of walls with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Rigid slabs of foamed polymers are placed in the middle of a three-layer brick wall structure without a ventilated gap.

Plates made of polymers have a very high resistance to vapor permeation. For example, a layer of wall insulation made from expanded polystyrene boards (EPS) has a resistance 15-20 times greater than that of a brick wall of the same thickness.

When installed hermetically, insulation acts as a vapor-tight barrier in a brick wall. Steam from the room simply does not reach the outer surface of the insulation.

With the correct thickness of insulation, the temperature of the inner surface of the insulation should be above the dew point. If this condition is met, steam condensation on the inner surface of the insulation does not occur.

Mineral insulation - low density cellular concrete

Recently, another type of insulation has been gaining popularity - products made from low-density cellular concrete. These are heat-insulating boards based on materials already known and used in construction - autoclaved aerated concrete, gas silicate.

Thermal insulation boards made of cellular concrete have a density of 100 - 200 kg/m 3 and thermal conductivity coefficient in dry condition 0.045 - 0.06 W/m o K. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam insulation have approximately the same thermal conductivity. Slabs are produced with a thickness of 60 - 200 mm. Compressive strength class B1.0 (compressive strength not less than 10 kg/m3.) Vapor permeability coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year*Pa).

Thermal insulation slabs made of cellular concrete are a good alternative to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene insulation.

Well-known brands in the construction market thermal insulation boards from cellular concrete: “Multipor”, “AEROC Energy”, “Betol”.

Advantages of thermal insulation slabs made of cellular concrete:

The most important thing is higher durability. The material does not contain any organic matter - it is an artificial stone. It has a fairly high vapor permeability, but less than mineral wool insulation.

The structure of the material contains a large number of open pores. The moisture that condenses in the insulation in winter dries quickly in the warm season. There is no moisture accumulation.

Thermal insulation does not burn and does not emit harmful gases when exposed to fire. The insulation does not cake. Insulation boards are harder and mechanically stronger.

The cost of insulating a facade with cellular concrete slabs, in any case, does not exceed the cost of thermal insulation with mineral wool insulation or expanded polystyrene.

When installing heat-insulating slabs made of aerated concrete, the following rules are followed:

Thermal insulation slabs made of aerated concrete with a thickness of up to 100 mm attached to the facade using glue and dowels, 1-2 dowels per slab.

From slabs more than 100 thick mm A wall is laid close to the insulated wall. The masonry is laid using glue with a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. WITH load-bearing wall masonry made of insulation boards is connected with anchors - flexible ties at the rate of five ties per 1 m 2 walls. Between the load-bearing wall and the insulation you can leave a technological gap of 2-15 mm.

It is better to connect all layers of the wall and brick cladding with a masonry mesh. This will increase mechanical strength walls.

Wall insulation with foam glass

Three-layer wall of the house with foam glass insulation and brick cladding.

Another type of mineral insulation that has appeared on the construction market relatively recently is foam glass slabs.

Unlike heat-insulating aerated concrete, foam glass has closed pores. Due to this, foam glass slabs do not absorb water well and have low vapor permeability. A ventilated gap between the insulation and the cladding is not needed.

Foam glass insulation is durable, does not burn, is not afraid of moisture, and is not damaged by rodents. It has a higher cost than all the types of insulation listed above.

Installation of foam glass slabs on the wall is carried out using glue and dowels.

The thickness of the insulation is selected in two stages:

They are chosen based on the need to provide the required resistance to heat transfer of the outer wall.
Then they check for the absence of steam condensation in the thickness of the wall. If the test shows otherwise, then it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulation. The thicker the insulation, the lower the risk of steam condensation and moisture accumulation in the wall material. But this leads to increased construction costs.

A particularly large difference in the thickness of the insulation, selected according to the two above conditions, occurs when insulating walls with high vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. The thickness of the insulation to ensure energy saving is relatively small for such walls, and To avoid condensation, the thickness of the slabs must be unreasonably large.

When insulating aerated concrete walls(as well as from other materials with low resistance to vapor permeation and high resistance to heat transfer - for example, wood, from large-porous expanded clay concrete), the thickness of the polymer thermal insulation, according to the calculation of moisture accumulation, is much greater than that required by energy saving standards.

To reduce steam inflow, it is recommended to arrange vapor barrier layer on the inner surface of the wall(from the side warm room), Rice. 6. To install a vapor barrier from the inside, materials with high resistance to vapor permeation are chosen for finishing - a deep penetration primer in several layers, cement plaster, and vinyl wallpaper are applied to the wall.

The installation of a vapor barrier from the inside is mandatory for walls made of aerated concrete and gas silicate for any type of insulation and façade cladding.

It should be borne in mind that the masonry of the walls of a new house always contains a large amount of construction moisture. Therefore, it is better to allow the walls of the house to dry thoroughly from the outside. It is recommended to carry out façade insulation work after the interior finishing is completed, and not earlier than a year after the completion of this work.

Cladding the external walls of a house with bricks

Cladding the external walls of a house with bricks is durable and, when using special colored facing bricks, even better clinker bricks. quite decorative. The disadvantages of cladding include the relatively large weight of the cladding, the high cost of special bricks, and the need to widen the foundation.

It is especially necessary to note the complexity and high cost of dismantling the cladding to replace the insulation. The service life of mineral wool and polymer insulation does not exceed 30 - 50 years. At the end of its service life, the heat-saving properties of the wall are reduced by more than a third.

With brick cladding it is necessary use the most durable insulation materials, providing them with conditions in the wall structure for maximum long work without replacement (minimal amount of condensation in the wall). It is recommended to choose high-density mineral wool insulation and polymer insulation made from extruded polystyrene foam, EPS.

In walls with brick lining, in It is best to use mineral insulation from autoclaved aerated concrete or foam glass, with The service life of which is much greater than that of mineral wool and polymer.

Brick cladding is laid in half a brick, 120 mm. on ordinary masonry mortar.

A wall without a ventilated gap, insulated with high-density slabs (mineral wool - more than 50 kg/m 3, EPPS), you can veneer with brickwork on edge - 60 mm. This will reduce the overall thickness of the outer wall and plinth.

The masonry of brick cladding is connected to the masonry of the load-bearing wall with steel wire or reinforcement mesh, protected from corrosion, or with special flexible connections (fiberglass, etc.). The grid or connections are placed vertically in increments of 500-600 mm.(height of the insulation board), horizontally - 500 mm., while the number of connections per 1 m 2 blank wall - at least 4 PC. At the corners of the building along the perimeter of window and doorways 6-8 PC. by 1 m 2.

The brick lining is longitudinally reinforced with masonry mesh with a vertical pitch of no more than 1000-1200 mm. The masonry mesh must fit into the masonry joints of the load-bearing wall.

To ventilate the air gap in the bottom row of facing masonry, special vents are installed at the rate of 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 wall surface. For lower vents, you can use a slotted brick placed on its edge so that outside air through the holes in the brick can penetrate into the air gap in the wall. Upper vents are provided in the eaves of the wall.

Ventilation holes can also be made by partially filling cement mortar vertical joints between the bricks of the bottom row of masonry.

The placement of windows and doors in the thickness of a three-layer wall should ensure minimal heat loss through the wall at the installation site.

In a three-layer insulated wall from the outside, a window or door frame installed in the same plane with the insulation layer at the border of the heat-insulating layer- as it shown on the picture.

This arrangement of the window and door along the thickness of the wall will ensure minimal heat loss at the junction.

Watch the video tutorial on the topic: how to properly lay a three-layer wall of a house with brick cladding.

When facing walls with brick, it is important to ensure the durability of the insulation layer. The longest service life will be ensured by thermal insulation with slabs of low-density cellular concrete or foam glass.

It is also important to reduce the amount of moisture in external walls during the winter. The less moisture condenses in the insulation and cladding, the longer their service life and the higher the heat-shielding properties. To do this, it is necessary to take measures to reduce the vapor permeability of the load-bearing wall, and for vapor-permeable insulation it is recommended to create a ventilated gap at the border with the cladding.

To insulate a three-layer wall with mineral wool, it is better to use slabs with a density of at least 75 kg/m 3 with a ventilated gap.

A wall insulated with mineral wool with a ventilated gap dries out construction moisture faster and does not accumulate moisture during operation. The insulation does not burn.

The problem of heat loss in residential buildings always exists, somewhere it seeps through the roof, somewhere through the foundation, but most often the heat is lost through the walls. The pressing question is how to avoid these losses, because because of this you have to spend more on electricity, forcing heating equipment work hard?

The answer is simple, properly insulate the façade walls. And you will learn how and how to do this from our article.

Characteristic features of brick walls

Building bricks are very different in their characteristics from concrete blocks or wooden beams:

The walls can be made of either hollow or hollow walls. It all depends on various factors: the load on the foundation, average temperatures in the region, and the thermal insulation materials used.
You can also lay bricks in two types: solid (the most common and simplest method) and well (with an air pocket that is filled with insulation). For example, there may be insulation between the foam block and the brick, where the brick is the front side.

Brickwork does not require enhanced sound insulation; the material itself does a fairly good job of preventing extraneous sounds from entering the room.

Otherwise, the building materials are similar; all walls can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside. The combined method - thermal insulation on all sides is not affordable for everyone, and the usable area is significantly reduced.

Types of thermal insulation materials

If you decide to build brick walls with insulation, then this section will help you decide which one to use.

The price in this case is not taken into account; the comparison is made only by technical characteristics:

Mineral wool- one of the most popular materials that has been used for many decades. It has a fairly low thermal conductivity coefficient (within 0.041 - 0.044 W/(m*K)), while having a good compression density (from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3). Among the disadvantages is high moisture absorption, not like a sponge, but inferior to other materials.
Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene)– also has high demand due to its resistance to high humidity. The thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool, but the strength (density during compression) suffers and the material is easily damaged. Plus, if it is exposed to fire, it will emit acrid smoke.
Extruded polystyrene foam– is considered an ideal option for both interior work, and for external ones. It does not emit toxic fumes, has the lowest thermal conductivity threshold of solid thermal insulation materials, but also suffers from “fragility”.

Note! It, like polystyrene foam, is easy to attach with your own hands; it does not require special equipment or any special knowledge. We will tell you in more detail about the process of insulating brick walls a little later.

Expanded clay- a bulk material that has excellent thermal conductivity and vapor barrier properties, but is more often used for insulating floors or ceilings. Although, it is ideal for well masonry.

Warm plaster- another material, only this time liquid. As for any technical characteristics, plaster is slightly inferior to other thermal insulation options. However, there is one advantage - saving useful space; it can be applied directly to a brick wall (on a reinforcing mesh).

These are not all materials, but we have described only the most popular and practical ones. We will talk about how to attach the insulation to a brick wall (we will take double sand-lime brick M 150 as the basis of the house) in the next section.

Thermal insulation of the house outside

Let's consider the insulation process using the example of polystyrene foam, which can be used in any conditions, when mineral wool is effective only when insulated from the inside:

The first thing you need to do is prepare the wall: seal all the cracks, cover up the crumbled seams of the brickwork.
Install the sheathing using wooden blocks. The peculiarity of this process is that it is better to maintain a distance between the vertical posts equal to the width of the foam, so there will be fewer joints.
Cut the material to size according to length.
Prepare an adhesive base or disc-shaped nails for attaching the insulation.

For your information! There is not much difference, each fastening option is good in its own way, only one is considered dirty (you need to drill for nails), and the second is clean. You just need to apply thick glue and that's it.

Secure the thermal insulation layer by sealing all joints and cracks with foam.

Cover the top with a windproof membrane, using a furniture stapler as fastening elements.
Now all that remains is to choose the finishing material and clad the house.

As you can see, the instructions for installing insulation on the street side do not require any special skill. That is why you can easily save on a construction crew by doing all the work yourself.

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside

This process differs slightly, but differs from the above. Here are the differences:

A waterproofing film must be attached under the insulation to prevent moisture from reaching the surface of the insulating material. It is especially relevant in the case of the mineral wool option.
If lathing is required on the street side, then indoor finishing materials can be attached directly to the insulation, of course, if a solid material is used. To do this, you need to level the surface, seal all the cracks and use reinforcing mesh.
When insulating a house from the inside, you should take care in advance to insulate communications in the walls; this, at a minimum, requires safety precautions.

Advice! For wiring, use plastic corrugated pipes, reliable and durable “protectors”.

We considered options when brick walls and insulation interact directly, a continuous thermal insulation option. Now let's study the well masonry more thoroughly.

Two walls

Let's take for example the case when you need to secure insulation between a brick and a foam block. Let's break it down into several stages:

The first step is to lay out the outer wall. It is laid according to the rules for working with bricks, with the exception of one point - every 4-5 horizontal rows it is necessary to insert a metal pin into the mortar. This is the connecting element of the two walls.

Note! An ordinary wire with a diameter of about 5 mm is sufficient. In terms of length, it is necessary to take into account that the pin is recessed by 2-3 cm in the first masonry and the same amount in the second.

The next step is installing insulation. If it is polystyrene foam, then it can be attached directly through the wire, using it as a supporting element. For roll materials It is better to use an adhesive base; at worst, secure it with disc nails.

Important! For bulk material, such as expanded clay, it is necessary to first build both walls: external and internal. After which, for example, the insulation between the brick and the block is poured, carefully compacted.

The last stage is the construction of the internal wall. The peculiarity of the process is that the wire is attached between the bricks, in the mortar. Some experts advise using a windproof film over thermal insulation material. In fact, if the work is done well, it will be superfluous.

As for brickwork, it all depends, of course, on your skill, but we advise you to build the walls sequentially. For example, if you built a 1-1.5 meter outer wall, fix the insulation and build the inner wall. Then return to the outside again.

For your information! During such construction, all joints of thermal insulation materials must be sealed; you can use adhesive tape or polyurethane foam.

Features of insulation

Insulation is different from insulation; you need to choose it in accordance with the weather conditions in your region and the various influences on the material.
If funds allow (this is not the most great article costs) use two types of fastening: adhesive base, for fixing around the perimeter, and nails. This will eliminate the possibility of subsidence and collapse of thermal insulation materials.
The joints of mineral wool insulation must be insulated from moisture and wind; for this you can use various materials; ordinary tape will do.
In some cases (without using facing bricks), the surface of the wall for insulation is primed and leveled. The process, although costly, allows you to increase the efficiency of any insulation.
In different regions, the temperature in winter may vary, it may happen that in your case it does not drop below -15 degrees, then the use of insulation may become a controversial issue. If only because it would be a waste of money.

Conclusion

The use of thermal insulation materials should be accompanied not by simple “I want” and “I can”, but by clear information about whether it will be effective and useful. In any case, even if insulation is installed between the block and the brick, you need to understand how much it saves on heating costs and how long it will take for the work to pay off.

Is it necessary to put insulation between ceramic tiles? block and facing brick? Which insulation is better for walls between block and brick

instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

The answer is simple, properly insulate the façade walls. And you will learn how and how to do this from our article.

Characteristic features of brick walls

Building bricks are very different in their characteristics from concrete blocks or wooden beams:

The walls can be made of either solid or hollow bricks. It all depends on various factors: the load on the foundation, average temperatures in the region, and the thermal insulation materials used.
You can also lay bricks in two types: solid (the most common and simplest method) and well (with an air pocket that is filled with insulation). For example, there may be insulation between the foam block and the brick, where the brick is the front side.

Brickwork does not require enhanced sound insulation; the material itself does a fairly good job of preventing extraneous sounds from entering the room.

Types of thermal insulation materials

If you decide to build brick walls with insulation, then this section will help you decide which one to use.

The price in this case is not taken into account; the comparison is made only by technical characteristics:

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials that has been used for many decades. It has a fairly low thermal conductivity coefficient (within 0.041 - 0.044 W/(m*K)), while having a good compression density (from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3). Among the disadvantages is high moisture absorption, not like a sponge, but inferior to other materials.
Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is also in high demand due to its resistance to high humidity. When insulating brick house With polystyrene foam, the thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool, but the strength (compressive density) suffers, and the material is easily damaged. Plus, if it is exposed to fire, it will emit acrid smoke.
Extruded polystyrene foam is considered an ideal option for both internal and external work. It does not emit toxic fumes, has the lowest thermal conductivity threshold of solid thermal insulation materials, but also suffers from “fragility”.

Note! It, like polystyrene foam, is easy to attach with your own hands; this does not require special equipment or any special knowledge. We will tell you in more detail about the process of insulating brick walls a little later.

Expanded clay is a bulk material that has excellent thermal conductivity and vapor barrier properties, but is more often used for insulating floors or ceilings. Although, it is ideal for well masonry.

Warm plaster is another material, only this time liquid. As for any technical characteristics, plaster is slightly inferior to other thermal insulation options. However, there is one advantage - saving useful space; it can be applied directly to a brick wall (on a reinforcing mesh).

Thermal insulation of the house outside

Let's consider the insulation process using the example of polystyrene foam, which can be used in any conditions, when mineral wool is effective only when insulated from the inside:

The first thing you need to do is prepare the wall: seal all the cracks, cover up the crumbled seams of the brickwork.
Install the sheathing using wooden blocks. The peculiarity of this process is that it is better to maintain a distance between the vertical posts equal to the width of the foam, so there will be fewer joints.
Cut the material to size according to length.
Prepare an adhesive base or disc-shaped nails for attaching the insulation.

For your information! There is not much difference, each fastening option is good in its own way, only one is considered dirty (you need to drill for nails), and the second is clean. You just need to apply thick glue and that's it.

Secure the thermal insulation layer by sealing all joints and cracks with foam.

Cover the top with a windproof membrane, using a furniture stapler as fastening elements.
Now all that remains is to choose the finishing material and clad the house.

As you can see, the instructions for installing insulation on the street side do not require any special skill. That is why you can easily save on a construction crew by doing all the work yourself.

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Thermal insulation of the house from the inside

This process differs slightly, but differs from the above. Here are the differences:

A waterproofing film must be attached under the insulation to prevent moisture from reaching the surface of the insulating material. It is especially relevant in the case of the mineral wool option.
If lathing is required on the street side, then indoor finishing materials can be attached directly to the insulation, of course, if a solid material is used. To do this, you need to level the surface, seal all the cracks and use reinforcing mesh.
When insulating a house from the inside, you should take care in advance to insulate communications in the walls; this, at a minimum, requires safety precautions.

Advice! For wiring, use plastic corrugated pipes, reliable and durable “protectors”.

We considered options when brick walls and insulation interact directly, a continuous thermal insulation option. Now let's study the well masonry more thoroughly.

Two walls

Let's take for example the case when you need to secure insulation between a brick and a foam block. Let's break it down into several stages:

The first step is to lay out the outer wall. It is laid according to the rules for working with bricks, with the exception of one point - every 4-5 horizontal rows it is necessary to insert a metal pin into the mortar. This is the connecting element of the two walls.

Note! An ordinary wire with a diameter of about 5 mm is sufficient. In terms of length, it is necessary to take into account that the pin is recessed by 2-3 cm in the first masonry and the same amount in the second.

The next step is installing insulation. If it is polystyrene foam, then it can be attached directly through the wire, using it as a supporting element. For rolled materials, it is better to use an adhesive base; at worst, secure it with disc nails.

Important! For bulk material such as expanded clay, it is necessary to first build both walls: external and internal. After which, for example, the insulation between the brick and the block is poured, carefully compacted.

The last stage is the construction of the internal wall. The peculiarity of the process is that the wire is attached between the bricks, in the mortar. Some experts advise using a windproof film over thermal insulation material. In fact, if the work is done well, it will be superfluous.

For your information! During such construction, all joints of thermal insulation materials must be sealed; adhesive tape or polyurethane foam can be used.

Features of insulation

Insulation is different from insulation; you need to choose it in accordance with the weather conditions in your region and the various influences on the material.
If money allows (this is not the biggest cost item), use two types of fastening: an adhesive base, for fixing around the perimeter, and nails. This will eliminate the possibility of subsidence and collapse of thermal insulation materials.
The joints of mineral wool insulation must be insulated from moisture and wind; for this you can use various materials; ordinary tape will do.
In some cases (without using facing bricks), the surface of the wall for insulation is primed and leveled. The process, although costly, allows you to increase the efficiency of any insulation.
In different regions, the temperature in winter may vary, it may happen that in your case it does not drop below -15 degrees, then the use of insulation may become a controversial issue. If only because it would be a waste of money.

Conclusion

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic (read other articles on the topic How to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside).

klademkirpich.ru

Which insulation is better and how to insulate the walls of a brick house - Remontami.ru

Brick buildings are one of the most common in Russia. This building material has a number of positive physical properties that are important for both residential and industrial buildings. However, brick buildings erected in northern and temperate latitudes will require mandatory thermal insulation. To insulate brick walls, various thermal insulation materials and technologies can be used, with varying efficiencies.

Features of thermal insulation of brick buildings

Brick can be of two types: hollow and solid. In the first case, a block of this building material has through cavities of various shapes, which reduce its hydro- and thermal conductivity. In the second, the brick block is a single monolith made of clay or silicate (a mixture of lime and sand).

Brick walls can also have fundamental structural differences. The standard method of construction from this material is solid masonry, which can have different thicknesses. More complex, but effective option, is a well-type masonry, consisting of two partitions, between which there is an empty space of small width. This technology makes it possible to further organize intra-wall thermal insulation.

If we talk about options for insulating a house, there are only three of them: external, internal and internal. All these methods can be implemented individually or in combination, which is certainly optimal solution. At the same time, there are different approaches to implementing the listed methods, each of which has its own characteristics.

The most common materials for brick insulation

There are no special requirements for thermal insulation materials for a brick house. Any solutions that best fit technical features future building. Let's briefly look at some of the most popular options:

Minvata. This category includes all materials based on metallurgical putty, such as slag wool, glass wool and stone wool. The density of these materials can differ by an order of magnitude: from 20 to 200 km per m3, but at the same time they have a stable average thermal conductivity of 0.042 W/(mK). However, the disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is high level absorption of liquid, so it is not practical to use it for insulation from the outside or additional protection will be required, for example, in the form of siding.

Styrofoam. This material, whose density ranges from 12 to 35 kg/m3, and whose thermal conductivity averages 0.034 W/(mK), has the best balance of price and quality. Polystyrene foam is completely immune to the destructive effects of water, but at the same time it does not allow water condensation to pass through, which puts additional demands on the home ventilation system. Also among the disadvantages are the destructibility of this material under physical influence and the low combustion temperature.

Expanded polystyrene. This modern material can be considered as an improved foam. The thermal insulation parameter of expanded polystyrene is about 0.03 W/(mK) at a density of 32 kg/m3. It retains all the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, but somewhat reduces them: it burns only at 80 degrees, without releasing toxins and is not so fragile, but also does not allow water vapor to pass through.

Thermal insulating plaster. This innovation in the world of building materials is better than many of its competitors. Insulating plaster allows condensation to pass through well, is non-flammable and even provides a high level of sound insulation. The disadvantages can be considered large weight (about 300 kg/m3 with thermal insulation of 0.063 W/(mK)), as well as the impossibility of using it as the only thermal insulation material outside.

External thermal insulation of brick buildings

If you have a choice, this method of home insulation should be given preference, as it has the following advantages:

A layer of heat insulation on the outside allows the brickwork to be heated, resulting in maintaining the same temperature of the walls and the air inside the room.
This thermal insulation also provides better penetration condensation out.
An important fact is the correct position of the dew point, which approaches the outer surface of the wall, which avoids the development of fungus.
Reducing seasonal changes in the wall reduces the wear of bricks.

The standard method of thermal insulation of a house from the outside is a multi-layer sandwich made of insulation, hydro- and vapor barriers, as well as finishing materials in the form of siding, plaster, wooden panels, etc. For these types of work, you should stick to one simple rule: the vapor permeability parameters of the materials used should increase towards the outer surface of the wall. The external insulation algorithm includes:

Cleaning and leveling walls to prevent voids between layers where condensation can accumulate.
If used panel insulation, it can be placed on glue, but in this case preliminary priming will be required work surface.
The panel material can also be attached to the wall using umbrella dowels.
When using adhesives, sheets of materials begin to be laid from below, and each subsequent row should shift like brickwork.
When using dowels, glue must be applied only to the point of their contact with the heat insulator.
Regardless of the chosen method, the heat-insulating material is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh, and the final layer is a decorative finish.

A more modern and effective option for insulating a house from the outside is a “ventilated facade”, the peculiarity of which is the presence of empty space between the layer of heat insulation and decorative finishing, which is most often used as siding. This technology is implemented like this:

A layer of material that insulates condensation is glued to the brick wall.
From a metal profile or wooden beams a sheathing is created, in the cells of which the heat insulator will be placed.
The insulation is installed using dowels, and a waterproofing material is installed on top of it.
The final stage is the installation of decorative trim.
In this case, the distance from the surface of the brickwork to the finishing layer should be several centimeters greater than the sandwich made of steam, hydro- and heat-insulating materials, which will ensure the necessary ventilation.

Despite its shortcomings, mineral wool is successfully used for this type of exterior insulation of a house, which, if the work technology is followed, does not accumulate moisture and does not collapse.

Internal thermal insulation of brick premises

You should not completely rely on this method of thermal insulation, since insulating a brick wall from the inside means exposing the building to the following negative factors:

Shift of the dew point to the inner surface of the wall, which is fraught with the development of mold;
Rapid drop in indoor temperature in case of shutdown heating system.
Cold walls, and as a result, accelerated destruction of brickwork.

Plaster mortar, which is not suitable as an independent means for insulating the outside, can also be quite effective:

A metal mesh is attached to the surface of the brick wall of the house using dowels.
Then the plaster solution is thoroughly rubbed into all cracks and irregularities using a stiff brush. Layer thickness - 5 mm.
For the second layer, a primer is used, which acts as the main heat insulator. In this case, the layer thickness should reach 50 mm, so all work is carried out using a construction spatula.
The final stage is the application of the final leveling layer, which consists of plaster based on fine sand. The layer thickness in this case is also 5 mm.

Afterwards you can apply decorative finishing in the form of paint, plaster, wallpaper, plasterboard structures And so on.

In-wall type of thermal insulation

This specific technology can only be implemented if the walls of the house are made using the well masonry method. In this case, thermal insulation can only be installed at the construction stage.
The work flow looks like this:

Support reinforcement with a diameter of at least 5 mm is attached to the external wall. Its length should be calculated so that when deepened into the brickwork by 2-3 cm, its length exceeds the heat insulation layer by 2-3 cm.
After completing the brickwork at the meter level, it is necessary to place the insulation panels between the reinforcement and begin construction of the internal wall.
The process is repeated until the required height of the structure is reached.

In addition to the heat-insulating materials described above, produced in the form of slabs, expanded clay is well suited for this insulation method. When using this material, the reinforcement placed in cement joints does not serve to support the heat insulator, but to strengthen the walls. Therefore, first, both walls are erected to a level of 1.5 meters, and then large expanded clay is poured into the space between them, which has a lower density compared to large ones, and therefore will put less pressure on the structure.

remontami.ru

How to insulate a brick house - an algorithm of actions with an example

A brick building is a strong and durable home. But this material has increased thermal conductivity. And if the walls are not thick enough and the house is cold, people have a question about how to insulate brick house. It is better if this is included in the building design and done during the construction process. But what to do if problems arose during the operation of the building. Read on...

Features of brick walls

In modern realities, a 60 cm wall made of ceramic hollow bricks does not retain heat sufficiently. Only increased masonry, which creates additional load on the foundation, or the use of insulation, creates conditions for compliance with modern building standards and helps improve the operational characteristics of the building.

According to Russian building regulations, for the Moscow region, the required thickness of a wall made of ceramic hollow bricks should be one and a half meters. Using 10 cm of expanded polystyrene on the outside, we obtain a 35 cm thick masonry that meets the requirements.

The walls are made of hollow or solid bricks. When laying, various solutions are used. And the structure of the masonry can be either solid or with an air pocket (well). Hence the different requirements for wall thickness and insulation. Insulation of brick walls requires calculation of the thermal insulation layer by thickness and method of placement, taking into account all factors.

How to properly insulate a brick house? For continuous masonry, it is recommended to insulate from the street side. The thickness and type of thermal insulation depends on the characteristics of the enclosing structure, the climate zone and the required thermal resistance of the wall pie. If the masonry is well, insulation can be done inside, between bricks, or external insulation. The presence of heat-insulating material in the layer reduces the heat loss of the building, but there is a possible risk of moisture accumulation.

The insulation material and thickness are selected based on the dew point and taking into account the vapor permeability of the layers of the finished wall structure.

Algorithm of actions for insulating a brick house

Instructions for insulating a brick building are as follows:

Choose suitable insulation, present in your region.
Select the finishing material with which you want to cover the thermal insulation.
Choose a façade system that uses the previously selected insulation and finishing.
Determine the required value of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures in your region. To do this, you will need to know the number of degree days in your region. For example, for Moscow, the thermal resistance coefficient of the wall is at least 3.2 m2 × ° C / W.
Next, use a calculator to calculate insulation (for example, smartcalc.ru), where you enter the layers of the future wall. By the way, the calculator for many regions already contains data on the required thermal resistance coefficient and degree-day, you just need to select the city of construction.
If the wall is not warm enough according to the calculator, then we either increase the thickness of the insulation or replace it with another one with more good indicator thermal conductivity. If the building is just being built, then you can replace masonry mortar to warm, which will also increase thermal resistance.
When the wall turns out to be warm according to the calculator, that is, no less than the required thermal resistance coefficient, then a check is made for the vapor permeability of the layers.
If the vapor permeability of the layers satisfies the requirement of increasing the vapor permeability of the layers from the room to the street, then get to work.

For an example of a brick wall with external insulation, see the end of the article.

Insulation materials suitable for a brick house

When choosing the best way to insulate, you need to consider the characteristics of each material. Thermal conductivity determines the desired layer thickness. Durability, performance, and naturalness are also important. Some of the materials can insulate a brick house from the outside, while others are used inside. The following popular types are used.

Sprayed (polyurethane foam, ecowool).

Polyurethane foam is initially a liquid component that is applied to a vertical surface, producing maximum thermal insulation. Before insulating a brick house from the outside, a frame is built into which it is poured and finished with cladding. They also fill cavities in the walls with polyurethane foam.
Ecowool (cellulose wool) is a product of processing recycled paper raw materials. Being harmless to humans, resistant to microbes and fungi, non-flammable, impregnated with fire retardants (substances that prevent fire).

Slab insulation

Stone wool, expanded polystyrene foam, slab foam glass are also insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. Fiber basalt slabs are fire-resistant insulation that reduces heating costs.

Foam glass is an insulation material with a cellular structure. Produced in the form of slabs and blocks. It also does not burn, is environmentally friendly, and is not affected by fungi or bacteria. You can learn more about this material by reading our article.

Insulating a brick house with polystyrene foam means reduced thermal conductivity of the walls, easy installation and relatively low cost. Disadvantages - flammability with the release of harmful substances, fragility.

Insulating a house with penoplex - effective heat retention, strength, and resistance to moisture penetration inside. Extruded polystyrene foam (which is penoplex) is used to insulate buildings, increasing thermal resistance. The material does not crumble and is resistant to biological contamination. Most often used in the base area.

Rolled (glass wool, linen insulation).

Insulating a house with glass wool is inexpensive and easy; it provides excellent thermal insulation. For installation on the wall, a lathing is made, then cotton wool is installed. A house lined with cotton wool is covered with windproof material and then with finishing material.

Linen insulation (mats) usually does not contain artificial additives, is treated with fire-fighting substances, is environmentally friendly and safe.

Filled and filled (penoizol, expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite).

Expanded clay is a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.10 - 0.18 W/(m K), applicable for in-wall insulation. The walls are erected to a certain height with a gap between them, where expanded clay is poured, after which construction continues. Perlite (a volcanic rock) and vermiculite (a mineral with a layered structure) are used similarly. Penoizol is a type of foam plastic that is pumped liquid into the cavities of structures.

Building decoration

Having chosen insulation, you need to consider the possibility of using one or another finish, behind which it will be hidden. Finish options are as follows:

Catalog of fiber cement panels

Porcelain tiles have the following physical properties:

Strength, durability, resistance to abrasion and damage.
Resistant to moisture, does not absorb water, which means frost resistance.
Temperature stability, does not respond to changes.
Tolerates strong heat and does not burn.
Stable color, wear resistance. External facade made from this material is almost eternal.

Metal panels use galvanized steel and sheet aluminum with a protective polymer film. Various profiles can imitate a board or brick. They need to be grounded and may have corrosion problems. Stone panels are rarely made of natural material due to their high cost and heavy weight. Artificial stone is lightweight and has a small thickness.

Facade insulation systems

There are options for how to insulate a brick wall; for this, one of the developed systems is used.

“Wet facade” is a method in which a layer of thermal insulation is applied to the surface thin layer protective plaster. The building must be insulated with cement adhesive solution outside the building. A thin and durable layer of solution is made on its surface, mesh reinforced. The surface is finished with decorative plaster. The technology uses expanded polystyrene, stone wool or foam glass.

“Ventfacade” - hinged panels are cladding. In addition, there are other layers, including for ventilation. A ventilated facade is constructed with a frame made of metal or wood. Between the slats you need to line the space with thermal insulation (basalt or mineral wool), and then with a layer of waterproofing. The work is completed with cladding made of finishing material.

Facing brick with a distance from load-bearing structure. A shell with a cavity is made for the building, which is filled with insulation. Brick finishing is durable, frost-resistant, with low moisture absorption. The material is reliable, environmentally friendly and lasts a long time.

Frame finished with siding, lining and all kinds of facade panels. When constructing the frame, slab, roll and sprayed insulation is used.

An example of an insulated wall made of sand-lime brick

Let's say a brick house is located in the Leningrad region. The minimum thermal resistance coefficient for St. Petersburg is 3.1 m2×°C/W. Heat loss for heating season: 205.50 kWh We have a pie wall:

gypsum plaster 5 mm
solid sand-lime brick 375 mm

wall of sand-lime brick

Enter the data into the calculator (smartcalc.ru). We want to insulate it with expanded polystyrene and finished with plaster using the wet façade system. For example, we introduce 100 mm of polystyrene foam (PSB-15). We end up with an insufficiently warm wall. We increase the thickness of the insulation by 20 mm and see that the requirements are met. Heat loss during the heating season: 33.43 kWh

Sand-lime brick wall with insulation

Conclusion

Insulation of a brick house is done for several reasons: - poor ability to retain heat; - increase in tariffs for public heating; - fight against mold due to moisture condensation.

A brick structure often needs insulation, according to experts. There are many materials for thermal insulation and surface finishing on the market. You can choose the right one only after familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of each in comparison. Read our reviews about materials and installation methods. Leave your comments, we are always happy to answer.

Comments powered by HyperComments

fasadidea.ru

Is it necessary to put insulation between ceramic tiles? block and facing brick?

Is it necessary to put insulation between the ceramic block and the facing brick?

My husband and I have an argument, I say what is necessary, but he better leave the air gap.

Margarita, there is no point in arguing here. You are 100% right. Almost every day I meet people who once did not insulate the space between the walls (usually built in the 90s) and now bite their elbows. Their walls (especially the corners) often freeze, and many develop mold. I have been insulating houses like this for three years now (blowing in foam chips and eco-wool). So I know what I'm talking about. Insulate yourself immediately, otherwise you will have to pay people like me three times more. By the way, the quality of such work is then very difficult to check (no one will open the walls, and thermal audits (thermal imaging services) are very expensive.

Definitely... it's easier this way. otherwise you’ll have to insulate the outside later... it’s much more expensive and much...

It's better to put URSA... ISOVER. BUT IT IS SURE TO ATTACH, OTHERWISE IT WILL SLIDE.

Thermal conductivity is the most important property of insulation.

The average thermal conductivity range of insulation varies in the range 0.029 - 0.21 W / (m/°C).

The standard for thermal conductivity is the thermal conductivity of air - 0.025 W / (m/°C).

The thermal conductivity index of the most effective insulation should be as close as possible to this indicator. The thermal conductivity of insulation directly depends on the external temperature. IN technical documentation The thermal conductivity index for insulation is usually given at (25 ± 5) °C. The thermal conductivity of water is tens of times greater than the thermal conductivity of air, so the thermal insulation material must always remain dry.

But an equally important indicator of insulation is its vapor permeability.

The value of this indicator changes diametrically opposite, depending on the place of application of the insulation. When insulating all external walls (including the roof). towards the interior, insulation with maximum vapor permeability should be used, i.e. with a minimum vapor permeability indicator. Accordingly, towards the exterior, insulation with maximum vapor permeability, i.e., with a maximum vapor permeability index, should be used. The vapor permeability of insulation is measured in mg / (m * h * Pa) and characterizes the amount of water vapor in mg that passes through one meter of thickness of a particular material in one hour at a pressure difference of 1 Pa.

The following materials can be used as insulation in three-layer structures (such as well masonry) (if it is basalt wool) with a density of at least 50 kg/m3 (for Rockwool it is Cavity Butts, for Izorok it is Isolite (without the letter “l”)). Lightweight Ursa and Isover wools do not pass due to the complexity of fastening. Expanded polystyrene foam (foam plastic with a density of at least 35 grade (has minimal thermal conductivity)) or extruded polystyrene foam (best of all, since of all the insulation listed above it has the lowest thermal conductivity (almost 10% less than polystyrene foam, and almost 30% less than cotton wool). The thickness of the material for cotton wool is at least 100 mm (for St. Petersburg). About 80 for Foam plastic, at least 50 for extruded polystyrene foam (preferably 60-70)

Fire safety is irrelevant, since in the case of well masonry, all combustible materials are covered and classified fire danger structures - K=0.

In my opinion, use extruded polystyrene foam, since due to the humidity between the walls, both cotton wool and foam plastic can absorb some amount of moisture, but extrusion has zero moisture absorption.

Based on materials from the site: http://teplo-lis.ru

fix-builder.ru

Brickwork with insulation inside: technology

Brick is the most common material for constructing load-bearing walls. It is successfully used both in multi-storey industrial construction and in private low-rise buildings. The only drawback of brick is its low thermal insulation qualities. To solve this problem, additional insulation of the walls is carried out. Brickwork with insulation inside makes it possible to build a warm house with minimal investment of time and money.

Disadvantages of masonry without insulation

More recently, the issue of thermal insulation of brick buildings was solved in a simple way - by increasing the thickness of the wall. Thus, for the middle zone, the usual wall thickness was 3 - 3.5 bricks, and in the northern regions it could reach 1 - 1.5 m. This is due to the high thermal conductivity coefficient of the brick, which causes large heat losses.

Laying walls of such thickness was a necessary measure in the absence of effective and inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Another factor promoting the use of “thick wall” technology in Soviet times was the relative cheapness of bricks. This made it possible to simplify masonry technology by eliminating the use of thermal insulation materials.

However, recently this approach has become too wasteful from a financial point of view: in addition to the cost of bricks, the costs of arranging reinforced foundations are increasing.

Another problem that you may encounter when installing brickwork without thermal insulation is a shift in the dew point indoors.

In construction, the dew point is the point inside or outside the outside walls of a building where the cooled vapor contained in the air begins to condense. The transformation of steam into dew occurs when warm air comes into contact with cold surfaces.

During winter frosts, walls that are not insulated are cooled to their entire thickness, as a result of which steam condensation occurs on their internal surfaces.

In areas where sub-zero temperatures are established in the cold season, the technology of laying bricks with insulation is the only acceptable one.

Three-layer masonry

One of the types of insulated walls is three-layer brickwork. Its design looks like this:

Internal wall made of brick, cinder blocks, aerated concrete, etc. Performs a load-bearing function for interfloor ceilings and the roof of a building.
Insulation of brickwork. The insulation is placed in internal cavities-wells between the outer and inner walls. Protects the inner wall from freezing during the cold season.
External wall with brick cladding. Performs decorative functions, giving the facade additional aesthetics.

On the image:

No. 1 - interior decoration.

No. 2 – load-bearing wall of the building.

No. 3 – insulation between brickwork.

No. 4 – ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the facing wall.

No. 5 – external wall with brick cladding.

No. 6 – internal reinforcement connecting the internal and external walls.

Brickwork with insulation inside, like other construction technologies, has its pros and cons. Its positive qualities include:

Smaller volume of masonry, which allows you to reduce the estimated cost by saving on the amount of building material.
Less weight of the building, which makes it possible to use lighter and less expensive foundations.
High thermal insulation properties, allowing you to retain heat in winter.
Improved sound insulation. The thermal insulation layer can significantly reduce the noise level, which is especially important if the building is located on a central street with heavy traffic.
External walls lined with decorative bricks do not require additional decorative finishing.

Among the disadvantages of multi-layer walls are:

Greater labor intensity associated with insulation, compared to brickwork of 3 - 3.5 bricks.
Three-layer walls do not allow periodic replacement of insulation, while its service life is always shorter than the service life of brick walls.

Choice of insulation

A wide range of insulation materials that meet the recommendations of SNiP can be used as a heat-insulating material.

Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the material must be such as to ensure protection of interior spaces at the maximum minus values typical for a given region.

You can familiarize yourself with the thermal insulation properties of insulation in the manufacturer’s instructions on its packaging or in the technical specifications tables of SNiP. By comparing these indicators with winter minimum temperatures, you can calculate the required thickness of the insulation layer.

Secondly, the insulation must have sufficient vapor permeability. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside it, which will lead to its loss of thermal insulation qualities.

And thirdly, the internal insulation must be fire resistant. Due to its non-flammability, it will not only not support combustion, but will also create a fire-retardant layer inside the masonry.

Mineral wool

Mineral insulation is absolutely not flammable, but is very susceptible to dampness. When wet, it almost completely loses its heat-saving properties, so when laying it, care must be taken to ensure effective waterproofing.

Expanded polystyrene

Foamed polystyrene is another thermal insulation material often used in three-layer masonry.

Bulk insulation

Slag is very hygroscopic - it tends to absorb and retain moisture, which can cause an increase in its thermal conductivity and premature destruction of adjacent layers of brick.

Laying three-layer walls

Laying a wall with insulation is carried out in several stages.

Laying the interior wall. It is produced using the same technologies as laying a conventional load-bearing wall made of solid bricks or building blocks. Depending on the minimum winter temperatures, it can be 1 or 1.5 bricks thick.
External wall masonry with cladding. It is carried out in such a way that there is a gap between it and the inner wall necessary for laying or backfilling the insulation - a well. 2 walls can be connected to each other either by connections made of anchor bolts and reinforcement, or by brick ligation, carried out at certain intervals.
Waterproofing is needed to protect the insulation from moisture, since it is impossible to completely prevent moisture from entering through the brick.
The wells are filled with backfill insulation when the walls reach a height of 0.8 - 1 m. Sheet and roll insulation is attached to the inner wall using mushroom dowels with a wide plastic cap, after which it is covered with external facing masonry.

For the construction of a waterproofing layer, it is not recommended to use “blind” materials, such as roofing felt. This will eliminate the possibility of free gas exchange between the external environment and the interior of the house. In the external wall, ventilation ducts should be left every 0.5 - 1 m - vertical joints between the bricks that are not filled with mortar.

Three-layer brickwork allows you to solve many problems that arise when using housing in winter. The process of constructing such walls is shown in the video below.

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:

Recently, heating prices have been growing enormously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will discuss the insulation of the external walls of a brick house with facing bricks. Next we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need for bulk insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out an arch.

The house is enclosed ceramic bricks has a very pleasant and neat appearance. But only under the condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams should be smooth and clean, and the brick itself should not be stained with mortar or have cracks.

Stage 1. Mortar for laying facing bricks

To work we will need the following tools:

Construction trowel;
Building level;
Thread or fishing line
Rod 8-12 mm (square reinforcement);
Grinder with a circle on concrete;
Cement, sand;
Polystyrene foam in bulk form.

First, let's prepare a solution. Everything according to the standard scheme: one part of grade 400 cement and three parts of sand, preferably not river sand, since the solution is river sand sit down very quickly. But if you don’t have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution; you can buy it at any hardware store. The density of the mortar should be such that it can be easily scooped up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, various types of pigments (special dyes) are added to the mortar on which brick laying will be carried out. That's why little advice: before buying a brick, consider combining the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted a classic seam color, that is, gray.

Stage 2. Laying ceramic (cladding) bricks

There is a lot of information on the Internet about how to lay bricks, so I don’t think it’s worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of laying ceramic bricks, because... High-quality insulation of a house with brick requires special attention.

Work will begin by laying out the corners. Facing brick masonry should only be laid on waterproofing. To do this, use roofing material or thick plastic film. In our case, the waterproofing was built into the foundation itself, so we started laying the masonry directly on the foundation. Having retreated 4-5 centimeters from the main wall, we will carry out the masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for an air gap, I will explain why later. You need to lay ceramics in the same way as ordinary bricks, but only under a metal rod with a cross-section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.

And this is how it is done: a metal rod is placed directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. In such a way that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself is no higher than the twig itself. And on the back side the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect can be easily achieved if you use a construction trowel to cut the mortar along the twig and hold the trowel at an angle.

The vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the rod is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (poke). The twig itself will not stand, so you will have to hold it while applying the solution.

Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, you need to rub the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or tears in the seams, be sure to seal them! Otherwise, when the temperature changes +/- degrees, water will get in there and when it freezes, it will tear the seam, and after a while, the brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall must also be wiped off with a rag, as after drying it will be much more difficult to wipe off. By the way, after some time, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand. There is nothing scary here; it can be easily wiped off with a rag, or you need to wait until the rain washes it off.

Laying facing bricks is a painstaking process that requires care. Therefore, be patient.

Stage 3. Making a frame for a brick arch

In order to lay an arch out of brick, we first need to make a frame for it. We don't need beauty here. The main thing is strength and even bending. Take a USB sheet 10 mm thick and use a jigsaw to cut out two half-moon strips at least 6 centimeters wide. The length and curve of the crescents are individual for each window.

Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. For this we use old bars, their thickness can be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.

We insert the bars between the two crescents and twist them with screws 45 mm long, after which the frame is ready for use.

Stage 4. Making an arch

Having installed the frame in the place where the arched window will be, we begin to cover the frame with brick on top.

Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the butt side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (brick width 12.5 cm + air gap 4-5 cm), the brick will have to be cut to length. To cut bricks we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.

The adjacent bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be flat in relation to the main wall at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, this is a matter of client taste. After a day, three arch frames can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.

Stage 5. Insulating the brick walls of the house with polystyrene foam from the outside

We will still fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This is an integral part of lining a house with facing bricks and insulation. The next question is: what kind of insulation should be between brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use loose foam, which is sold in bags. Why this and not sheet foam?

Here's why. The first advantage: if for some reason the walls of the building were not level, then the loose foam plastic will not react in any way when backfilled. But with leafy ones you will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can get into sheet foam and create a lot of passages and holes for themselves. It is impossible to make a move in loose foam because mice cannot climb on it. As they rake with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, remaining in place.

Before pouring foam into the wall, you need to close the cracks around the perimeter of windows and doors using mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when filling slopes it will be easier to apply putty on the foam.

Note: in order to safely insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside in windy weather, I do not recommend pouring polystyrene foam. All the foam will scatter all over your yard in the best case, and in the worst case it will even sweep away your neighbors.

Attention! We received feedback that with such insulation over the course of a year, polystyrene foam filled in this way can sag three meters in height of the house, about 60-70 cm. We have had experience in dismantling such walls. Experience shows that insulating voids has little effect. In this material, the photo showed that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary polystyrene foam to the walls, even with foam adhesive. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the resulting voids in the upper part of the masonry.

Yuri, the author of the article answers: To ensure shrinkage, we tamped foam chips every meter of height. In addition, for filling after two or three years, it is enough to remove the hem and do the filling. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but... 1. In such foam, mice are found three times less often and not for long, since it is not convenient for them to make moves there and they simply fall down. 2. When using sheet foam, you need a more or less flat surface; for loose foam, this is of no use.

Stage 6. Final work

Advice: few builders know this secret: when all the work on insulating a house with bricks is completed, spare no expense and buy a couple of canisters of liquid silicone at a construction supermarket. And carefully paint all the brickwork, especially the seams, they can even be filled in. After drying, a barely noticeable transparent film will remain on the wall. Thanks to it, your home will look like new for 5-10 years longer. If you don’t have enough money for liquid silicone, then replace it with a deep penetration primer, just remember that there are no drips on the brick, otherwise after drying you will be in for a very unpleasant surprise. And so, all work on laying facing bricks and insulating the brick house is completed. Although this type of insulation is a little expensive, it will serve you for many years.

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