How to grow a plum from a seed. How to grow a plum tree from a seed at home

“Is it possible to grow plums from seeds at home? Which variety should I choose for planting? How to care for a seed? - these questions are of interest to enthusiastic amateur gardeners. It is possible to grow a healthy and strong tree that will bear fruit, but it is a very labor-intensive process. You can't call germination from a seed in a fast way As a rule, this takes a lot of time (the stratification process alone can last six months). And in order to get fruits from such a tree, sometimes you have to wait five to six years.

But it is possible to achieve success. The main thing is to choose the right planting material, prepare it and take care of proper care, and the seed will do the rest itself.

Which variety to choose for planting?

It is important to understand that not every plum is suitable for seed propagation. Sometimes the main factor in choosing a variety for planting is the area where the tree will grow. It is better to give preference to “local” plums, as they are more likely to germinate. The most popular varieties are:

"Ussuri";
"Canadian";
"Chinese".

There are often situations when a seed was planted, it sprouted, the seedling was planted in open ground, we waited for the fruits, but they were sour, although the original variety was sweet and juicy. The reason for this was cross pollination. Insects, pollinating flowers, added pollen of other varieties, which suppressed weak maternal signs the original tree - and a wild one grew with sour and tasteless fruits.

To grow plums from pits in middle lane The following varieties are more suitable for Russia:

"Belarusian";
"Minsk";
"Volga beauty"

These varieties not only have strong maternal characteristics, but also good resistance to low temperatures.

For those places where spring and summer are warm, the following varieties are suitable:

"Victoria";
"Kuban comet";
"kroman".

Important! For growing plums from pits, only ripe fruits are suitable, since they form a full-fledged, strong embryo from which a good tree can grow. It is also better to prepare several seeds at once, since there is too high a chance that the seed will not germinate.

Stratification

Stratification is the first and most important preparatory stage, which determines whether the planted seed will germinate. The essence of the process is that the planting material must be kept in cool and humid conditions.

When germinating plums from seeds, it is important to follow the step-by-step instructions and follow all the rules:

Having chosen a variety, free the pit from the pulp. Next you need to prepare the cotton fabric. It must be cut into small pieces into which the seed must fit. Each selected seed must be wrapped in cloth separately, placed in one container and moistened.
The container with the wrapped seeds should be placed in the cellar, refrigerator or summer kitchen. The lower the air temperature, the better.
The seeds and tissue should always be damp. To do this, they need to be watered regularly with a pipette.

Now we have to wait for the seed to sprout. The process usually takes 6 months, but it can be sped up. For example, a bone and the fabric in which it will be wrapped can be treated with growth stimulants (Epin or Ecosil).

If mold appears on the cloth, the seed should be immediately removed and washed under running water, and then re-wrapped in cotton cloth.

There is another stratification option. A seed can be grown not only in fabric. You can use crushed moss, sawdust, sand, peat.

The germination process in the substrate occurs a little differently:

First you need to put the bones in water for three days. Planting material must be completely immersed in liquid. Soaking softens the seed shell and also removes inhibitors that prevent the seed from germinating.
While the bone is in the water, you can prepare the container and soil. The soil must be moistened and treated with a solution of potassium and water (in a proportion of 5 grams per 1 liter, respectively). In the pot where the seed will grow, you need to make side holes. They are needed for good air circulation.
The seeds must be placed in the soil so that they do not touch each other.
Containers should be covered with transparent polyethylene or glass.

Now we need to provide the seeds with optimal conditions for germination. The most important thing is correct temperature, and there are certain stages:

Warm up For the first 15 days, the seeds should be stored at a temperature of +15...+20 degrees.
Cooling. On the 16th day, the temperature should be reduced to +1...+5 degrees. Under such conditions, the bone is stored for 60 to 80 days.
Pre-sowing. Before planting the seed in open ground, the temperature is reduced to 0 or -1.

Monitor soil moisture. It shouldn't dry out. But if mold appears on the substrate, the soil should be sprayed with a 3% potassium solution.

Germination in a substrate is a longer procedure, but it is considered more successful. If everything is done correctly, the chances of having a healthy and strong tree increase several times. The first sign that the seed is ready for planting will be a cracked shell.

How to grow young seedlings?

After successful stratification, the next stage begins - growing young seedlings. Where to plant young seedlings: in open ground or in a pot? Everything here depends on the climate. If it’s already warm outside and the soil has warmed up well, then you can go to the dacha and plant the seedling immediately in its usual place. But it is worth considering that such a sudden climate change can be detrimental to the seedling. Therefore, it is better to plant the seed in a pot and germinate it at home, and when the tree gets stronger, it can be transplanted into open ground.

Growing seeds in a pot

To germinate plum pits at home, you need to select a container. The diameter of the pot should be at least 20 centimeters so that the sprout is not cramped in it. You also need to make sure that there are drainage holes at the bottom that will remove excess moisture. The container must be disinfected with a weak solution of manganese, and a layer of expanded clay should be placed on the bottom. Now we need to prepare the substrate. Plum pits love light soil that allows moisture and air to pass through well. You can mix humus, leaf soil and vermiculite in equal proportions. It also doesn’t hurt to add perlite (0.5 part of the total mass of the substrate) - a natural volcanic rock that promotes rapid seed germination.

Fill the pot with the prepared mixture. The substrate should be well moistened. The seed is planted in the center of the container and buried 5 centimeters into the ground. Now you need to cover the pot with transparent polyethylene or glass to create a greenhouse effect. The container is placed on the windowsill, where there is enough sunlight. Now all that remains is to wait for the sprout to appear. Usually the seed germinates in 30-40 days. Throughout this period, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse daily, as condensation should not be allowed to form. In addition, regular air baths will help the plant get used to the environment.

Creation optimal conditions will help you achieve a good result. Try to control:

Watering. The plant should be watered abundantly, but infrequently. 1-2 times a week is enough. You can't water the seed in the usual way, it is better to use a spray bottle or syringe. The water should be warm and settled.
Lighting and temperature. There should be enough light. If the room where the seedlings are located is dark, then you need to use special fluorescent lamps. For a seedling to germinate, a temperature of +25 degrees is needed.
Fertilizer. The first feeding can be done only after the sprouts appear. While the seedling is growing, it is necessary to apply two more fertilizings with nitrogen fertilizers. One seedling requires 100 milliliters of solution.

When the first two leaves appear, you should pinch the plant by 1/3. This procedure activates the growth of the root system. If several seeds were planted in one container, then after the leaves appear, picking should be done. The seedlings are planted in separate containers, watered abundantly and placed in a dark place for several days.

To avoid getting a wild tree whose fruits will be dry and tasteless, seedlings must be planted in new soil every three months. At the same time, it is important to change the container itself, increasing its size each time. Drop off young tree in open ground no earlier than after one year.

Transplanting a seedling into open ground

To transplant a seedling into open ground, you need to prepare the soil. If you plan to plant seedlings in the spring, then the soil must be dug up in the fall. Over the winter, the soil will rest, settle and become saturated melt water. If there is an autumn planting, the soil must be prepared at the beginning of summer. Fertilizers must be added to the soil:

compost (6 kilograms per 1 meter);
superphosphate (60 grams per 1 meter);
potassium salt (30 grams per 1 meter).

Now you need to dig a hole, the depth of which should be 60 centimeters and the width - 100 centimeters. Since the young seedling is still weak and may not withstand strong wind or rain, a stick should be placed at a distance of 30 centimeters from the center of the depression, to which the young tree should then be tied.

To fill the hole, you will need two buckets of manure, 2 buckets of sand, 30 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium sulfate. All components are mixed and poured onto the prepared area. From the earth mixture you need to form a hill on which the seedling should be placed. The roots of a young tree must be leveled over the entire surface. When adjusting the planting height, you should try to ensure that the root collar is 5 centimeters above the soil level. When filling a hole, it is important to avoid voids, since the plum does not like them. The soil around the tree must be compacted, watered, and the tree itself must be tied to a stick. The tree trunk circle should be sprinkled with sawdust.

Caring for plums after planting

Now that the seedlings are grown and planted in open ground, you can relax a little. Caring for plums after planting is not as painstaking as during the seed germination stage. The tree does not need any fertilizer for the first two years. Those added during planting are quite sufficient. The soil around the tree must be loosened periodically. But this must be done very carefully, as the roots can be injured. You should also be careful with the bark. If it is damaged, the young plum may die. When the first shoot appears near the root, it should be removed, as it will take away the tree’s strength and nutrients. On at this stage It is important to first strengthen the root system.

The tree should be watered as the soil dries. The frequency of watering largely depends on climatic conditions. If it is hot and dry, then you need to water the tree more often, and if it is cool and humid, then less often.

The first winter for a tree is a test. After all the leaves have fallen, you need to collect the plum branches and secure them. The ground around the tree must be insulated with mulch and covered with spruce branches. This will not only keep it warm, but also save the tree from attack by rodents that attack young trees during the first frosts.

Don't count on harvesting in a year. First, the tree must take root well and survive several winters. In the best case, it will be possible to harvest only after 5-6 years. The number of fruits and their quality will depend on how well the plum is cared for.

Growing a plum from a seed is difficult, but possible. To achieve good results, you must strictly follow all recommendations. If the first landings were unsuccessful, do not be upset. You should stock up on planting material and try again. Perseverance and proper care will help you achieve the desired result.

Situations often arise when, having treated yourself to a piece of fruit from a neighbor’s garden, you want to have a similar plant variety on your site. But how to do this if there are no processes? In this case, you can take advantage of its fruits, namely, grow a plum from a seed. The plan is quite realistic and feasible. But to implement it, you need to know the secrets and nuances that warn you on the way to obtaining and planting a young seedling.

Which variety is suitable for growing?

Interest in sprouting plums arose a long time ago, because the plant produces tasty and juicy fruits used in cooking, confectionery, juices, purees, preserves, jams and many other dishes. In addition, fresh plums contain many useful components, vitamins and minerals.

To obtain a positive experience in growing a crop, you need to know which variety will allow you to do this. All varieties quickly adapt to the climate, but the best growth is shown by domestic plants that are already adapted to weather conditions. European and exotic fruits should not be taken; the trees will either freeze in winter or grow wild. In open ground it is better to plant the following varieties:

Belarusian.
Minskaya.
Vitebskaya.
Volga beauty.
Eurasia.

For southern regions Kuban Comet and Victoria are suitable.

Selection of planting material

For greater confidence in the effectiveness of the process, several ripened seeds are used, which go through the stages of germination and stratification. But in any case, a tree often grows from a seedling, differing from its parent in taste and appearance (the fruits are smaller, more sour, or absent altogether). This is due to pollination with other plant varieties and genetic disturbances.

An identical tree can only be obtained by vegetative propagation.

Hybrids of Ussuri, Canadian and Chinese plums have excellent qualities and resistance to mutation. To do this, select the most ripened fruits, saturated with moisture, sun and vitamin reserves from the tree. Green seeds never sprout. When germinating several seeds, it is always possible to choose the strongest seedling.

Germination stages

After receiving quality planting material start preparing it. To increase the percentage of germination, the seeds are exposed to cold. It stimulates their growth, vitamins go deep into the grain, and the protective shell softens.

The germination process is labor-intensive and requires a lot of attention and patience. And don’t despair if you don’t get results the first time. When 2-3 seedlings sprout, there is no need to rush and give them to relatives or friends. Not everyone will survive the first winter and may have to start all over again. To strengthen the seedling, it is planted in flower pot and when they are already grown, they are transplanted into open ground in the spring.

Seed stratification

To stimulate the growth of the plum embryo, the seeds are subjected to cold stress. In this case, use a damp cloth in which each grain is wrapped and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or in soil with coarse sand, peat, crushed moss or perlite.

Soil is poured into the container and depressions are made. The seeds are placed in them, pre-soaked in water for three days. To speed up germination, the shell is cracked, the seeds are carefully removed, and the damaged ones are removed.. The box is moved to the basement and the moisture is maintained at at least 60%. Stratification lasts 6 months (from October to March). This process can be carried out in open ground by burying a covered container with planting material in the garden. To protect against severe frosts, snow is thrown over this place.

For high-quality stratification it is necessary to maintain humidity. In the refrigerator, this can be achieved by wrapping a wet cloth in a plastic bag. When mold forms, the seeds are removed and washed with a manganese solution.

The percentage of germination can be increased by adding the growth stimulator Zircon or Epin to the water with which the fabric is moistened during stratification.

With the right actions in the spring, the gardener will receive swollen and cracked seeds, ready for sowing and fruitful growth.

Growing a seedling

In February-March they begin to sow seeds. To do this, prepare fertile, slightly acidic soil. Peat is added to sandy soil, and loamy soil is enriched and loosened with peat (vermiculite) and sand. Do not forget about the fertility of the soil and add some humus and wood ash.

To plant a seed at home, choose a clay or plastic pot at least 20 cm in diameter and with holes in the bottom. A third of the container is filled with drainage made of expanded clay, broken bricks or pebbles to remove excess moisture and ventilate the roots. Plant the seed to a depth of 5-6 cm and sprinkle with soil. Humidity is maintained moderate and temperature +18-22 degrees. Provide diffused lighting and cover with film or glass cover to create greenhouse conditions.

After 45 days, the first sprout will appear on the surface, requiring special care:

Moderate watering 2 times a week, plus spraying.
High-quality lighting; if there is a lack of light, install fluorescent lamps.
Top dressing consists of 30 grams of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water. It is carried out three times during the entire growing season (once a month).
Loosening the soil.
Picking. When two true leaves are formed, the top is pinched and transplanted into a larger pot.

And in the Urals. But gardeners are wondering whether it is possible, without buying a seedling or grafting a shoot into the wild, to immediately grow a fruit tree from a planted seed obtained from a tasty and juicy fruit eaten. A plum tree, with certain efforts, will grow and bear fruit, but, as a rule, will not retain the quality characteristics of the variety.

Plum trees in Russia are widespread in garden plots on par with apple trees. But seedlings purchased from the market or brought from nurseries do not always please with the promised harvest. So the summer resident strives to grow a plum from a seed on his own. In favor of growing plums in garden and summer cottages speaks:

the ability of plums to adapt to growing conditions, and even providing a little care will lead to a harvest;
the presence of a vitamin complex and a large amount of nutrients in juicy sweet and sour fruits;
the possibility of using it for preparing sauces (tkemali), sweet dishes (jams, jellies, preserves, compotes).

Attention!

A large number of fruits eaten at one time can lead to diarrhea. This plum is recommended for use by people suffering from constipation, but in moderation.

Planting a plum pit

You can grow plums from seeds at home if you follow certain rules. Not all varieties have resistance to gene mixing. In the middle zone the following varieties are grown from “seeds”:

Canadian;
Belarusian;
Chinese;
Minsk.

choose for planting a zoned variety that is resistant to frost; southern varieties will freeze and not provide the tree with enough nutrition;
for planting, choose “seeds” from juicy, fully ripened fruits;
plant as much as can be harvested;
plant the seed in a pot at home.

Advantages of planting seeds in a pot before planting directly into the soil:

the bones will remain intact and will be eaten by mice;
development is monitored young plant;
growing towards spring root system;
the plant receives feeding on time;
When transplanting, the roots will remain intact.

Preliminary procedures

To grow a plum from a seed at home in a pot, you must follow step by step instructions for beginners. Storing and preparing for planting plum pits:

The “seeds” collected from ripe fruits in the fall are placed in 2/3 water for three days, placed on their edges. From time to time they change sides, make sure that the planting material is not completely immersed in water, otherwise the future sprout will suffocate before it has time to sprout. This procedure is necessary to increase the rate of seed germination and to wash out substances from the seed that slow down this process.
Sometimes scarification is performed - a procedure that speeds up the release of the bone shell. It is thinned by rubbing with river sand or rubbing with a file.
Washed river sand or sawdust is moistened, placed in boxes or pots with drain holes, bones are placed there, and covered with a damp cloth, avoiding it from drying out. You can replace it plastic bag, but in this case the pot must be ventilated periodically.
For the first 2 weeks, the containers are stored in a warm place (15-20 degrees).
Next, the seeds will need a temperature of +1 to 5 degrees for 2-2.5 months.
The last pre-sowing procedure will be to place the seeds in hardening containers at zero temperature for 1 month.
The condition of the material is monitored throughout the entire period of time. It should be damp, but not moldy. It is removed by washing with a 5% KMnO4 solution.
The signal for planting will be swelling of the peel or its cracking.

Preparing the pot and soil

To grow a plum from a seed at home, you need to select the right pot and soil. A container of suitable diameter (about 20 cm) is disinfected with potassium permanganate or a 3% formaldehyde solution. Then:

a drainage layer is placed at the bottom, which consists of expanded clay, broken into small pieces of brick, shards of pottery;
coarse river sand or charcoal is poured on top;
add a planting mixture containing peat (leaf soil), vermiculite, humus or compost in equal quantities.

Attention!

All layers in the pot are water- and breathable, which allows the roots to breathe and remove excess water.

Planting a seed

The soil is thoroughly watered and the swollen seed is planted (seeds that have not changed are discarded) in the center of the container, buried 5 cm into the ground. The pot is covered with a glass or polyethylene cap to create the effect of a microgreenhouse. In this period Special attention pay:

periodic ventilation;
lighting; for better seed germination, regular lighting is necessary;
temperature regime, the future plant needs a temperature of about 25 degrees;
watering, water the pot until it begins to drain into the pan excess moisture, use settled warm water for moistening.

Appearance of the sprout

If everything is done correctly, after 1.5 months a plum sprout will appear. Like any plant grown from a seed, it first develops seven-lobed round leaves, and then real shiny oblong leaves with jagged edges. If there are more young plants than required, select several of the strongest ones. The rest are cut with scissors, without pulling them out of the ground, so as not to disturb the neighboring seedlings.

Caring for a seedling in a pot

A swollen plum pit planted in early February should grow to a height of up to 50 cm by May. In order for the root system to have a branched appearance, in the period between the release of seven-lobed leaves and the first true ones, the root is pinched to 1/3 of its length. Transplant the sprout into another container. After a month, the grown plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. For 1 sprout, 100 ml of solution is required, prepared from 30 g of urea and 10 l of water or 20 g of aquarin and 10 l of water. Further care, right up to planting in the ground, is carried out similarly to caring for indoor flowers. If the sprout does not gain weight well, 2 weeks after the first feeding, a second feeding is given with nitrogen-containing preparations. If there is insufficient lighting, add artificial light.

Transplantation into the ground

Plum loves tall sunny places with fertile soil and the absence of nearby groundwater. If there is none on the site, it is created artificially by pouring a hill with a diameter of about 100 cm and a height of about 50 cm. To transplant a young plant in the spring, the place is prepared in the fall, and for autumn plantings, the hole is prepared in early June for the soil to shrink.

Attention!

To reduce soil subsidence, when digging a hole, its walls are made vertical.

At the selected location, dig a hole for planting about 60 cm deep and 80-100 cm wide. The fertile top soil is mixed with compost or humus from the river coarse sand, added in the amount of 2 buckets, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate. If the soil is too acidic, add a glass of ash or dolomite flour. Transplanting from a pot is done by transferring it while preserving a clod of earth; it is not difficult and helps to establish faster in a new place. The seedlings in the container are well watered for 30 minutes before transplanting. Having tilted the pot, carefully pull out the plant with a lump of earth and transfer it to the hole. When planting, make sure that the root collar is 5 cm above the ground level.

Further care

Nutrients and fertilizers added to the hole during planting will last a young plum tree for 2 years. Until autumn, plum trees need regular and abundant watering. For the winter, the ground around the seedling is covered with 20-30 cm of mulch, and after the onset of the first frosts, the tree is completely wrapped in burlap, cut into large strips or other breathable material to save the bark from cracking on frosty and sunny days.

After 2 years, it is recommended to graft a rootstock or several onto the plum, in order to subsequently obtain several varieties on one strong tree. The grown plum itself may not bear fruit, or after 5-6 years you may end up with sour fruits that are unfit for food.

Planting a seed in the ground

Those who don’t want to bother with planting and caring for a seedling in a pot try to grow a plum directly in the ground at the dacha. To scare away uninvited guests (mice and earth rats), strong-smelling rags soaked in a tar solution are buried next to the planted seeds. Plums are grown in schools. At the end of summer or beginning of autumn, a shallow trench of about 15-20 cm is dug, which is half filled with the excavated earth and left for the earth to settle. At the end of October:

at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other, lay out the seeds taken from ripe ripened fruits to a depth of 8-10 cm;
the shells and seeds planted in autumn are not disturbed;
pour loose soil on top;
plantings do not require watering;
sprouts appear the next year in May;
when there are numerous sprouting seedlings, cut off the excess with scissors, but do not pull it out, so as not to uproot the plant growing nearby;
During the growing season, seedlings are watered, loosened, and weeds are removed;
the next year, the grown seedlings are planted on permanent place residence;
wait for side shoots to appear and graft.

Transplantation to a permanent place

The preparation of the hole follows the same principle as when transplanting from a pot. Next, from the mixed ingredients they make a rise in the hole, stick a peg a little to the side in order to tie the planted young tree to it. A seedling is placed on a hill, its roots are straightened, preventing them from bending upward. If the root collar is located below ground level, add more to the hill soil mixture, lifting the tree and taking into account that the earth will gradually settle.

When adding soil, the seedling is slightly turned and shaken so that all the voids are filled. Next, the soil is compacted, watered abundantly, the young tree is tied gently to a peg and the surface around the stem is mulched. After 2 years, the plum is grafted with a varietal shoot.

If we compare 2 methods of growing plums from seeds: home and garden, then with home the seedling requires more care, but with a greater guarantee it will take root in the ground, and when planting in gardens there is less care, but there is no guarantee that anything will grow at all.

Plum rightfully enjoys honor and respect throughout the world. This garden crop is great for making jams, preserves, compotes, liqueurs and sweet fillings for baked goods. No gardener will refuse to have one or more plum trees on his plot. Is it possible to grow a fruitful plum from a seed? Certainly! Moreover, every plant lover can do it.

It is better to buy local varieties of plums, since imported fruits are unlikely to take root. Most best option– purchase fruits (they must be soft and ripe) from those who sell summer cottage products. This will significantly increase the chances of a favorable result.

The plum pulp can be eaten or used to make sweet preparations. The seed should be thoroughly cleaned, washed and placed in a warm, dry place for several days. It would be useful to immediately check their suitability. To do this, simply put the seed in a glass of water: if it sinks to the bottom, it means it is fertile.

After drying, it is necessary to remove the core from the seed - the same seed from which we will grow a tree. Use tongs to crack the hard shell carefully so as not to damage the kernel.

Stratification of seed material

Before planting a seed in the ground, be sure to carry out a stratification procedure. To do this, the plum seed is placed in a substrate and kept in cold and wet conditions for about 5-6 months. It is in such a harsh environment that the seed should be germinated.

The following types of material are suitable for the substrate:

sawdust;
peat;
perlite;
coarse sand;
moss (crushed).

The substrate is moistened and treated with an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate in a proportion of 5 g/l. Checking whether it is wet enough is simple: squeeze it in your hand. Normally, only a small amount of water should be released, and the material itself will retain its shape.

Before moving the seed into the substrate, soak it in water for 3 days, filling it to half its height. Every day the water changes, and the seed turns over to the other side.

The container for stratification must have side openings so that air exchange processes are not disturbed and “fungus” does not appear. If several seeds are stratified at the same time, they should be placed at a distance from each other. After placing the seeds in the container, cover it with film or glass.

Correct stratification takes place in 3 stages:

Warm up Seed material is aged for 15 days at room temperature(+15 – 20 C).
Cooling. Temperature lower to +1 – 5 degrees (put in the refrigerator). In such conditions, the container remains for 60-80 days.
Pre-sowing The temperature is lowered a little more (to 0 or -1 C) and the seeds are left for 20-35 days.

During stratification, it is important to monitor the moisture content of the substrate. If mold appears in the container, spray it with the 3rd solution of potassium permanganate.

Growing a seedling

After successfully completing the above step, you need to plant the plum seed in a pot with soil. The diameter of the container must be at least 20 centimeters. Before filling with soil, it is treated with formaldehyde, preparing a 3% solution. The bottom of a pot or other container - for better aeration and drainage - is filled to 3-5 cm with expanded clay (or broken brick), then thin layer sand and charcoal.

The main filling of the container is best done not with ordinary soil, but with a special soil mixture. The most favorable development is provided by a substrate of soil (or peat), humus and vermiculite mixed in equal proportions. You can also add a little perlite or sand. After filling a suitable container, this mixture is poured generously.

After this, a plum seed is placed in the center of the container and buried about 5 centimeters. Then the container with future seedlings is covered with film and left for 40-45 days. During this time, a plum tree sprout should appear. Every day, closed containers should be ventilated by briefly lifting the covering material. Watering (from a spray bottle) is carried out once every two days.

After the sprout appears, you need to grow the seedling at home for at least two more months. Only after this period has passed can the plant be planted in a summer cottage.

Expert advice on growing plum seedlings on the site

Experts note that after planting a plant in open ground, it is also necessary to take care of it. For example, you need to monitor the tree trunk of a seedling: regularly loosen, moisten and remove emerging weeds.

Additional shoots that grow must be removed so that nutrients are not wasted on them. In addition, do not damage the bark - this poses a great danger to young trees.

In winter, the lower part of the tree (trunk) should be insulated - covered with frost-resistant and airtight material. This will save the plant from cracks (frost holes) that occur during sudden temperature changes.

If the plant is attacked by aphids or caterpillars, you can wash it with an ash-soap solution (for minor damage) or chemicals (Karbofos, Aktara, etc.).

With proper care and attention, fruits will appear on the tree in 5-6 years.

Plum is one of the most common fruit crops, which can reach 10 meters in height. It is believed that the familiar plum is the result of a natural crossing of sloe and cherry plum. Modern scientists have developed many hybrids that differ in the shape of the fruit and the period of fruiting.

You will find complete information about planting, growing and caring for plums in the article. We have described in detail the basic rules and features of growing fruit crop, and selected photos and videos that will help novice gardeners grow a fertile tree.

Plum: care and cultivation

Care and cultivation of plums largely depends on the type of crop. Species with oblong fruits are called Hungarian, and round plums are called Renklody. As a rule, it is grown in low-standard, semi-standard and high-standard forms. The crown can be shaped like a fan or pyramid. Palmette or cordon are not suitable for this crop.

Figure 1. Popular plum varieties: 1 - Voronezh Hungarian, 2 - Volga beauty, 3 - Eurasia-21, 4 - Record

Common varieties include(picture 1):

Hungarian Voronezh bears brown-blue sweet fruits, the seeds of which are easily separated. Is different high yield, but low winter hardiness;
Volga beauty. The fruits are oval in shape, purple-red in color and have a sweet and sour taste. It is characterized by high yield and average winter hardiness. The harvest is harvested in several stages, as it ripens unevenly;
Eurasia-21 is distinguished by round, dark-burgundy fruits with a slight bluish tinge. The taste is sweet and sour, the bone is difficult to separate;
The award is suitable for growing on black soil. The fruits are oval, have a dark red color and sweet and sour taste, and are quite large in size;
The record is distinguished by black-blue oval fruits with a well-separable stone. During the season you can harvest up to 15 kg of crop;
The collective farm genus produces sweet and sour round fruits of yellow-green color. They are small, but up to 25 kg of crop can be harvested per season (Figure 2);
Renclod Tambov: round red-violet fruits weighing up to 25 grams. The tree has average winter hardiness and good yield;
Early fruiting is characterized by round, bright red fruits. It is characterized by high yield and winter hardiness;
Early ripening red is distinguished by oval elongated fruits of a dark red color. The stone separates well, but the yield is average;
Smolinka - a tree with oval fruits purple-blue color. Winter hardiness and yield are average (up to 20 kg per tree);
Tula black is an unusual crop with oval fruits of a black and blue hue. During the season you can collect up to 40 kg from one tree.

Figure 2. Varieties of plums: 1 - collective farm renklod, 2 - red early ripening, 3 - smolinka, 4 - Tula black

A separate type is the damson, which is characterized by low growth and high endurance. It has a characteristic tart taste and blue-black color. There are other types of damsons different colors(for example, damascene or mirabelle). It is similar to plum and cherry plum, which is often used as a rootstock.

Conditions

For cultivation, choose thick soils with a high ability to retain moisture. The soil around the tree is regularly cleared of weeds, but it is not recommended to loosen it frequently, as this promotes the formation of root shoots.

Figure 3. Recommendations for choosing a place to plant a crop

To get a regular harvest, plant the crop in an area protected from frost, and for high-quality ripening it must be well lit. Varieties intended for processing can also be planted in shaded areas. If you plan to plant a tree near a wall, it is better to choose the southern or western direction, and only damsons can be planted near the eastern or even northern walls. Figure 3 shows recommendations for planting plum trees in relation to other trees, shrubs, buildings and fences. From the video you will learn practical recommendations on selecting a location and planting plum seedlings.

Rules

The selection of seedlings is based on the size of the garden. For small areas, the semi-dwarf St. Julian A rootstock is suitable. There are also popular cherry plum B and Brompton rootstocks, but for most gardens this personal plots they are too tall.

Figure 4. Seedlings of different quality and age

If you plan to grow a low- or high-standard form, as well as a tree with a fan crown, buy a partially formed seedling. Only one-year-old seedlings are suitable for forming a crown like a dwarf pyramid. Figure 4 shows seedlings of various ages and qualities.

Peculiarities

At the beginning of autumn, all perennial weeds are removed from the area where the plum tree will be located. Before planting, add bone meal and mineral fertilizers, and if the soil is too light, it is supplemented with rotted manure or compost.

Plums are planted during the dormant period of the root system, that is, in spring or autumn. But if the seedling was grown in a separate pot or tub, planting can be done in the summer. Recommendations for planting are as follows (Figure 5):

Dig a hole. Its width and depth must correspond to the size of the root system;
If the tree is planned to be grown in an open space, a supporting stake is driven into the ground;
For trees with a fan crown, a system of wire supports is formed, which are stretched horizontally at a distance of 15 cm from each other;
The distance between trees should be at least 5.5 meters.

Figure 5. Recommendations for planting seedlings

Supports - necessary condition cultivation for the first five years. However, if the tree is planted in an open area not protected from the winds, the supports are left for more long term. High-standard forms require additional supports with a horizontal bridge.

How to plant a plum from a seed

Growing a plum seedling from a seed is a very labor-intensive process that requires compliance with certain rules. You will learn how to plant a plum from a seed correctly in this section.

What you need to know

First of all, you need to choose the right planting material. It is better to collect seeds from trees of local varieties, since imported fruits will not take root in the new climate. For growing, select ripe soft fruits. Their seeds will germinate much faster.

The pit is cleared of pulp, washed thoroughly and laid out on the windowsill to dry. After this, you need to remove the seed itself from the seed. To do this, the upper hard shell is split with nutcrackers (Figure 6).

Note: Before planting, be sure to check the germination of the seeds. They are placed in a glass of water. High-quality seeds will fall to the bottom, and spoiled ones will remain floating on the surface.

Proper planting of a seed tree begins with the process of seed stratification (germination at low temperatures). The best time The end of November is considered for its holding. Over the winter, the seeds will have time to germinate and the seedlings will have time to grow stronger before being transplanted into the ground in the spring.

To germinate a plum pit, you need to do the following::

A glass jar is filled with moist, fertile soil. Place the seeds on it and shake the container well. This will fill the ground with air and make the soil loose.
The jar is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 5 months. During this time, the seeds begin to gradually germinate and are hardened before planting in the ground.
Ready seeds can be transplanted into the soil as early as mid-May. The planting area is carefully dug up and fertilized. It is better to choose sunny and sheltered places from the wind.

Figure 6. Growing a seedling from a seed

Only seeds that have formed roots during storage in the refrigerator can be planted in the ground. Such seeds will later turn into seedlings and mature trees.

Peculiarities

It is worth considering that at least five years will pass from the moment the seeds are prepared and stratified and an adult tree is obtained. In addition, a seedling grown with your own hands from a seed does not bear much fruit in the first year of fruiting. bountiful harvest. However, when proper care the crop yield will be quite high (Figure 7).

Figure 7. Sprouting seeds to grow seedlings

After the first shoots appear, care is taken to ensure that the tree trunk is formed evenly. Young shoots formed in the fall are pinched for better wintering of the crop. For the winter, the shoots are insulated and covered with mulch.

Only after the formation of a strong trunk and several side branches with shoots do they begin to form a crown. To do this, pruning is carried out, removing excess and weak shoots.

How to grow a plum from cuttings

You can grow plums not only from seeds, but also by cuttings. To do this, in mid-June you need to cut young green cuttings. The length of one branch is approximately 20-30 cm. It is better to cut in the morning in cool weather so that the tree does not experience unnecessary stress. The prepared branches are immediately placed in water for germination (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Preparing cuttings for planting

It will be better if a few leaves remain on the cuttings. Such shoots will take root much faster and turn into a full-fledged tree.

If you are interested in how to properly plant a plum in the spring from a cutting, you need to take into account that special growth stimulants will help speed up the formation of roots. Such preparations are used instead of ordinary water for germinating cuttings.

You can take any growth stimulant, but it must be diluted with water to reduce the concentration of the drug. It is enough to immerse the cuttings in liquid for 18 hours, and after that they can be transferred to a container with clean water.

The author of the video will tell you how to properly harvest and root green cuttings of the crop.

Rules

The grown cuttings are transplanted into open ground according to certain rules. First, prepare the soil. To do this, pour a layer of peat onto the bed and a layer of sand on top. Immediately before planting, watering is carried out with water mixed with mineral supplements(Figure 9).

Figure 9. The procedure for planting cuttings in open ground

The distance between the cuttings should be no more than 7 cm, and the depth of the hole should be about 3 cm. The bed is covered with film on top or a greenhouse-type shelter is built. Watering is carried out several times a day, and the cover is removed after about a month.

Conditions

Young seedlings easily get sunburned, so even after removing the cover it is recommended to slightly shade them.

Grown seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place after the formation of several lateral branches (after about a year). The plum bed is fertilized with rotted manure and mineral fertilizers over several months.

Plum: planting and care in open ground

It is advisable to plant plums in open ground in the spring, before the buds open. In warm climates, autumn planting is also allowed, in September. Before the onset of cold weather, the seedling will have time to take root and grow stronger.

Plum care in spring, summer and autumn includes standard measures for fruit trees. There are certain events for each time of year (Figure 10):

in spring carry out pruning, removing frozen and damaged branches. It is better to carry out the procedure in mid-March, when there are no longer severe frosts, but the tree buds have not yet had time to open. In April, the soil on the tree trunks is loosened and mineral fertilizers are applied. It is also necessary to whitewash the trunks with lime and carry out preventive spraying against diseases and pests.
In summer, after flowering is completed, re-fertilize with mineral fertilizers. At the end of summer the fruit harvest begins. During this period, supports are placed under the tree branches so that they do not break under the weight of the fruit.
in autumn The harvest of fruits is completed, the last fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out, the trunk is whitened with a solution of lime and the young seedlings are covered for the winter.

Figure 10. Caring for plums in spring, summer and autumn

In winter, it is advisable to cover the trunks with covering material and place rodent bait around them. This will help protect the tree from pest damage.

Spring plum care

High yields are possible only if the young tree is properly cared for. To do this, water it regularly, fertilize it and protect it from pests and diseases.

Watering and fertilizers

At the beginning of spring, add to the soil complex fertilizers and ammonium sulfate. However, if on the site acidic soil, it is replaced with lime-ammonium nitrate. Additionally, trees are mulched by spreading fertilizers in a layer of up to 5 cm so that they do not touch the trunk (Figure 11).

Figure 11. Caring for plum seedlings: 1 - fertilizer, 2 - mulching, 3 - watering

In dry and hot weather, the plum tree is watered every 10 days throughout the growing season. On square meter area requires 2.5 liters of water. Excessive irregular watering negatively affects the quality of the fruits: they may crack.

Frost protection

Regardless of where the plum grows, it is protected from spring frosts. To do this, use burlap or mesh, covering the tree at night during the flowering period.

Pollination

Plums begin to bloom very early, especially those growing near walls. Due to the lack of insects, pollination is carried out manually, transferring pollen from male flowers to female ones. To do this, you can use a cotton swab or a soft brush. Recommendations for hand pollination are shown in Figure 12.

Figure 12. Hand pollination procedure

Most species of damson and cherry plum are capable of self-pollination. In addition, there are similar types of plums, so they can be planted individually.

Thinning fruits and supporting branches

The plum is freed from excess fruits only after the seeds have formed and only if they greatly burden the branches. If thinning is carried out earlier, the tree will not bear full fruit.

As a rule, the first thinning is carried out when the fruits reach the size walnut, and the second - when they become twice as large.

Figure 13. Fruit thinning process

It is important that when thinning, you should not pick plums, as this can damage the stalk. Cut them with scissors or pruning shears (Figure 13).

To prevent the branches from breaking, they are provided with additional support. Supports are driven into the ground around the tree at an angle. At their top there should be forks wrapped in burlap. Branches with a large number of fruits can also be tied to the top of a stake driven nearby. Types of supports for mature trees and seedlings are shown in Figure 14.

Note: Ripe fruits are picked together with the stalks. Moreover, this process is carried out in several stages, since ripening occurs unevenly.

Figure 14. Types of supports for seedlings and mature trees

Plums are not intended for long-term storage. The maximum permissible period is 2-3 weeks, but in this case the fruits are removed slightly unripe and stored in a cool, dry room. For storage, they are usually preserved in the form of jams and compotes, and also dried and frozen.

Experienced gardeners recommend carrying out spring preventive treatment with drugs against diseases and pests. Spraying is carried out in early spring, before the start of sap flow. During the summer, watering is carried out periodically if natural precipitation is insufficient.

Note: In the process of preparing a tree for wintering, winter watering is additionally carried out, which provides the seedling with the necessary moisture in winter.

Feeding is one of the main stages of care. Fertilization is combined with loosening so that nutrients quickly reach the root system.

Top dressing

It is better to fertilize plums with mineral fertilizers. Organic matter is added only once every 3-4 years, using rotted manure or compost. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the fall to stimulate crop growth. Phosphorus and potassium are added in the fall to prepare the seedling for winter.

An adult crop can be left without shelter for the winter, covering only the trunk circles with mulch. Young seedlings must be covered with mulch or spruce branches. You can wrap the tree in burlap, but not synthetic material, because the culture under it will begin to rot.

Trimming

Under no circumstances should plum trees be pruned in winter, as this increases the risk of milky sheen. In any case, the cutting areas must be covered.

The cutting of all standard forms is the same. The only difference is that annual seedling for semi- and high-standard forms, less is trimmed than for low-standard forms.

Trimming is carried out according to the following algorithm(Figure 15):

First year: before the buds open, the trunk is cut to the first bud to a height of 1, 1.3 or 1.8 meters (for low-, semi- and high-standard forms, respectively). Sometimes, when tall trees are forming, pruning is postponed in the first year, and only the side branches are shortened so that the central conductor becomes thicker. In summer, several first-order buds are selected, located closer to the top, and the remaining shoots are shortened.
Second year: four branches are selected that extend at right angles from the trunk. They are shortened by half along the outer kidney. All other branches (including those left in the first year to thicken the trunk) are removed. Also in the second year, all shoots formed below the crown are pruned.
Third year: the procedure is repeated, and the main purpose of pruning is to allow second-order branches to develop. In the fall, select eight strong branches, and in the spring, shorten them by half. The branches inside the crown are also shortened.

Figure 15. Pruning seedlings depending on age

In the future, the plum bears fruit well even without annual pruning. It may only be required for low-growing species. But dry, damaged branches will still have to be removed, and the crown will also have to be thinned out regularly if it becomes too thick.

When forming a fan crown, in the first year the annual seedling is shortened to a length of 60 cm above the soil (Figure 16). Below this border there should be two branches directed in opposite directions. All other shoots are shortened to one bud.

Figure 16. Pruning a tree with a fan crown

At the beginning of summer, the central conductor is directed vertically, and the side branches - in opposite directions, tying them to the wire. When the lateral processes reach a length of 50 cm, the central conductor is removed. To stimulate the growth of new shoots, in the second year the branches extending to the side are shortened. Later, several strong shoots are selected from each of them and also tied to a support. In the future, the procedure is repeated to stimulate shoot growth.

Figure 17. Formation of a pyramidal plum crown

Figure 17 shows a detailed diagram of pruning a plum with a pyramidal crown shape. The video provides practical recommendations from experienced gardeners on plum pruning.

Autumn planting is permissible only in regions with a mild climate. If your region has cold winters, planting will have to be postponed until spring, since young crops will not have time to take root and may die from frost.

For autumn planting It is also necessary to prepare the site in advance: clear it of weeds, apply fertilizer and carry out deep digging.

What you need to know

The hole for planting begins to be prepared approximately two weeks before the seedling is transferred to the ground (Figure 18). The soil can be any, but it is advisable not to choose areas with close groundwater. Excessive moisture can cause root rot and seedling death.

Figure 18. Autumn planting scheme

It is better to choose a sunny site, with protection from cold winds and drafts. Acidic soil is additionally limed.

Peculiarities

An important role when planting is played not only by the correct choice of location and soil preparation. No less important The choice of seedling also plays a role. Its root system should be fresh, without signs of any damage, dryness or rotting.

Note: If the roots of the planting material are slightly dry, it can be immersed in water for several hours.

It is better to plant in a mound placed around a supporting peg. After planting, the seedling is watered abundantly, and when the moisture is absorbed, the soil is slightly compacted and an additional layer of soil is added.

Control of diseases and pests of plums

Caring for plums in the spring includes pest control. Birds cause great damage to fruit buds and ripe fruits, so it is advisable to cover the tree with a special net. In addition, it is affected by aphids and red fruit mites. To combat them, spraying with nitrophen is used (Figure 19).

Figure 19. Main pests of plum: 1 - aphids, 2 - red spider mite, 3 - plum sawfly

If leaf-eating caterpillars appear, spray with karbofos. The same remedy is used to combat plum sawfly.

If a milky sheen is detected, the diseased branch is cut back to the point where the healthy wood begins. The cuts are immediately covered. If a tree is infected with bacterial cancer, the diseased branches are cut off and burned, and sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. Fruits infected with brown rot are also subject to destruction (Figure 20).

Figure 20. Plum diseases: 1 - milky shine, 2 - bacterial cancer, 3 - brown rot of fruits