Plastering walls is a long-tested and well-proven method of finishing a room. Plaster is a finishing layer on the surface of brick, concrete, gypsum concrete and other types of walls, partitions and ceilings.
Purpose
In addition to being decorative, plastering performs protective functions, the main of which are:
- protecting the structure from moisture, adding strength to it;
- imparting fire resistance;
- increasing heat transfer resistance;
- reduction of air permeability and sound conductivity of walls and partitions.
Therefore, plaster is an indispensable way to finish and protect structures.
Types of plaster
Before purchasing, it is important to read full list to select the most suitable option.
The main types of plaster are:
- decorative;
- ordinary.
The main purpose of decorative plasters is to decorate the interior design. Conventional plasters require subsequent painting and wallpapering.
The main types are divided into subspecies depending on characteristic features and areas of use.
According to the quality of work performed ordinary plasters can be:
- simple;
- improved;
- high quality.
Depending on the method of performing the work, plaster is divided into:
- wet (monolithic);
- dry.
Wet plasters are carried out using the standard method of preparing a solution and then drying the surfaces. Unlike wet plaster, dry plaster is demanding on indoor conditions.
Compositions of plaster solutions and their features
If additives and impurities have decorative and specific functions, then the strength of the plaster depends on the quality of the base composition.
Existthe following typessolutions:
- simple;
- complex.
Complex solutions can be made with your own hands, but you can purchase ready-made ones in the store.
A simple solution, depending on the main component, can be:
- lime;
- cement;
- plaster.
The required strength of the lime mortar is achieved almost immediately. In addition, a mixture consisting of lime is a good antiseptic.
Cement plaster is used to obtain a strong and durable coating. It's easy to use, but it is necessary to know the solidification limits of the solution. They are: start - 45 hours after dilution with water, end - 12 hours.
You can make the required plaster mixture with your own hands, but it’s easier to trust professionals and buy it in a store.
Methods and methods of work
Surface plastering work cement mortar does not present any difficulty. But, despite the fact that this topic is covered in detail in the literature, a layperson may have additional questions.
The drying time of cement plasters is much longer than gypsum plasters.
There are two main methods of plastering:
- using beacons;
- without the help of beacons.
The plastering technology in these methods differs slightly. Non-professionals often choose the method of plastering a wall using a lighthouse.
Work technology
Before carrying out work, you should prepare a solution. Depending on the purpose of the plaster and its composition, the quantity and quality of the required solution differs. For cement plasters, for example, the main composition is a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. For correct calculation The area of the wall to be plastered should be taken into account.
Preparing the walls
The preliminary step is preparing the walls. The overall quality of the work depends on how they are prepared.
The preparation of the walls is as follows:
- cleaning the wall from dirt, soot, oil;
- alignment.
Leveling allows you to avoid subsequently applying additional layers to hide depressions or bumps. This saves a lot of time and money.
Tools and accessories
The set of tools and accessories for plastering is standard for all methods.
To plaster a wall with cement mortar you will need the following kit:
- ladle;
- spatulas;
- rule;
- graters
The final quality of plastering work depends on the quality of the necessary tools and equipment.
The most in a simple way plastering for a non-professional is work using beacons. This will ensure accuracy and significantly reduce the time spent.
Plastering with beacons
Before starting work, beacons should be installed.
The essence of the work is as follows:
- sketch out dots of cement-sand mixture or putty vertically;
- attach beacons to these points;
- align using a level or rule;
- using a hammer drill, drill holes with a minimum diameter of 10 mm;
- hammer wooden blocks into the holes. The pads should be conical for convenient fastening of the beacon profile;
- Using threads, arrange a row of bald patches according to the rule. They can be leveled with a hammer, or excess parts can be sawed off with a hacksaw;
- Screw the beacons onto the flanges using screws with a diameter of 25 mm;
- Fill the holes that remain after attaching the beacons with a cement mixture.
It should be mentioned that there is a wide variety of types of beacons on the market. After installing the beacons, you can begin applying the solution. Depending on the type, work technology may differ, but general principle is the same.
In the “old days”, beacons were made on the wall from gypsum mortar, and they then remained in the body of the plaster layer
The application of the plaster solution is carried out as follows:
- using a ladle or trowel, throw the mortar onto the wall;
- the rule should be set to two beacons;
- stretch and level the solution from bottom to top.
Subsequent work is carried out as standard.
Plastering without beacons
Non-professionals rarely use this method, since it requires some experience.
You can start work from any angle:
- scatter the mixture in narrow strips with a ladle;
- after they have hardened, fill the gaps with plaster;
- align using the rule.
Subsequent work is carried out in the usual way.
Quality control
Before moving on to subsequent work, it is necessary to check the quality of the work performed.
The work is considered high quality if it meets the following criteria:
- unevenness on 4m is allowed, maximum 3mm, depth or height should not exceed 5mm;
- permissible deviations of the surface vertically and horizontally of the wall are 1 m by 3 mm;
- the permissible total thickness of the plaster should not exceed 20 mm (for gypsum - 15 mm).
Finishing work
Once leveled, the final work involves sanding the surface to make it smooth. If plaster is not the final finish, then the walls are usually primed with wallpaper or putty.
Grouting of the surface is carried out as follows:
- Press the grater to the wall surface;
- smooth out the applied plaster.
After preparing the surface, you can begin priming or wallpapering.
Plastering is not difficult to do with your own hands, but you need to listen to the advice of professionals.
Please note the following:
- observe the proportions of the solution. If there is a lot of filler, the solution will be weak; if there is not enough filler, it will be too greasy, which will lead to cracks;
- before priming you can etch the wall to prevent fungal infection and increase service life;
- specialists it is recommended to apply a primer. It can subsequently prevent the plaster from peeling off.
- if the room temperature is low (or there are drafts), then plastering should not be carried out, because the surface may dry unevenly, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of cracks.
Following a number of tips will help you achieve best quality and increasing service life.
Fresh plaster is afraid of drafts. Drying too quickly will lead to cracks.
Comparative cost of work
When hiring workers, on average the cost of work only per 1 sq.m. with a layer thickness of 20 mm is 300 rubles. The cost of doing it yourself is noticeably lower. With all the necessary tools and accessories, it is approximately 230 rubles. It is more profitable to do it yourself, but if quality is a priority, you can turn to professionals. Especially it concerns decorative plaster, which is not easy to make with your own hands without skills.
More information about plastering walls with cement mortar with your own hands can be seen in the video:
Leveling walls with cement mortar is the most common method of finishing surfaces in houses. Today, many people want to learn how to plaster with their own hands. But to do this, you need to consider how the solution is made, as well as understand the principles of its application to different surfaces.
Peculiarities
Cement plaster is a heavy material in itself. If the layer applied to the walls is too thick, and their preparation for work is incorrect, then the cement mortar may not stick to the walls. To prevent this from happening, you need to prepare the walls for finishing. There are many ways to prepare them.
The most common method is using a metal mesh. It can be found in any hardware store, and it costs a penny. A special metal mesh is attached with dowels to the brickwork. It will not only help the mortar stick to the wall, but also prevent the plaster from cracking.
If you want to save money, then instead of a lattice you can use wire, which is wound onto nails driven between the bricks. However, this process will take longer.
When concrete wall, just scratch it a little, and then the solution will stick to them well. For cinder block or shell rock, no preparation is needed at all. It is enough to moisten such surfaces with water so that they do not take moisture from the solution. There is no need to wait for them to dry.
How to prepare the solution?
When everything is ready to plaster the walls, you can start preparing the solution. Of course, it is much easier to purchase ready-made dry mixtures based on cement or with the addition of gypsum, lime or cement plaster.
Just fill them with water. There is no need to experiment with the amount of liquid - the proportions will be indicated on the packaging. But if there is a lot of work planned, then it will be more economical to make the solution yourself. It won’t be difficult to prepare; it is important that the proportions are respected.
The solution contains only three components - sand, cement and water. First you need to choose cement, because the composition of the solution depends on what brand it is. Cement comes in grades M400 and M500, which indicates the ratio of cement and sand: M400 is one to four, and M500 is one to five. Then you need to carefully sift the sand so that there is no debris in it. It should be free of clay inclusions, since clay absorbs moisture more strongly, which can cause visible cracks and other damage to appear on the surface of the walls.
The next step is mixing dry materials in a concrete mixer and adding the required amount of water to the solution. The sand-cement mortar should be diluted to such a consistency that it holds its shape, but at the same time rubs well over the surface of the wall. You can also add liquid soap to make the plaster more flexible. One spoon of liquid per bucket of solution is enough.
When preparing the solution, you must adhere to the proportions, otherwise the mixture will turn out to be too “greasy”. This means that there is too much cement in the solution. Such a coating will be durable, but even slight shrinkage will lead to cracks.
However, the second extreme is also bad. If the solution is too thin, this is also not good. This characteristic describes a composition that contains too much sand and not enough cement. Savings of this kind will still end up backfiring: the solution will turn out to be too weak, and the walls will quickly become covered with bald spots.
Consumption rate per 1 m2
When starting to plaster walls, it is necessary to calculate the amount of mortar, because the finished mixture thickens very quickly. The consumption of plaster per 1 m2 is influenced by many factors. The main ones are the quality of the walls and the type of plaster. Also, the finished solution hardens very quickly, so you need to calculate the amount of the mixture. This will save money and also increase the productivity of wall finishing.
If the walls are smooth, the layer of plaster will be minimal, but, on the contrary, if there are cracks or depressions, the consumption of the solution will increase. After all, very often craftsmen use plaster to solve serious problems during the repair process - to fill cracks, hide a network of cracks, or simply level the walls. A good solution can cope with all these tasks.
When finishing walls, 1m2 of dry plaster will require two to three times less than cement. The thickness of the layer, if the surface is uneven, is one centimeter, and the solution consumption is approximately eight to nine kg. When the wall is without flaws, the layer can be reduced to 0.5 cm, accordingly, the consumption will also drop by half.
When finishing with cement mortar, the consumption of plaster is twice as much as when using gypsum, approximately 16-17 kg. This solution contains only sand and cement. You shouldn’t skimp on it either - you need to take M400 brand material. Then the ratio of materials will be 4 kg of cement and 13 kg of sand.
To reduce solution consumption, it is necessary to prepare the base.
Log walls or walls made of wooden beams, as well as concrete, it is necessary to treat it with a primer in two layers. Maximum flow will happen when plastering cinder block walls, since walls of this type are very uneven.
Unusual coatings deserve special attention. Before applying a layer of plaster, the previous one is usually removed. So, for example, if the walls were previously decorated with pebbles or tiles, they need to be cleaned using special tools. Walls made of foam concrete or surfaces finished with foam plastic require minimal processing.
Application process
Today, many people prefer to shift the responsibility for repairing a house or apartment to workers. Including plastering the walls. But this process is actually not as labor-intensive and time-consuming as it seems.
The work is quite monotonous. Cement mortar can be applied to the walls with a spatula or trowel. It is thrown at an angle of forty-five degrees from bottom to top until the layer covers the height of the beacons. Then the surface is leveled using the rule. To do this, you need to place it on two beacons and stretch the cement plaster, moving up and down, in zigzag waves. Thus, the solution lies in a more even layer and fits tightly to the wall.
Excess solution is removed back into the mixing tub. The surface of the walls should be neat and without any visible irregularities or plaster overhanging the edges. If some unevenness remains, they are sprinkled with a small amount of the mixture and smoothed out again using the rule. This continues until the ceiling, and only then can you move to the next level, which is located between the lighthouses.
When it is necessary for the thickness of the solution to be greater, then all processes are repeated more than once. For example, if the walls are adobe or cleared of a layer of tiles. The technology in this case is as follows: the first layer of plaster is applied, then it dries, and only after that the next layer is applied.
If the layer is too thick, it may simply slide off. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to use a metal mesh that will prevent the solution from doing this.
After the solution has dried, you can begin the last stage of wall finishing, which is grouting the surface. Grout mechanically It doesn’t take much time, and you can do everything yourself. To do this, mix the same solution as for plaster, and its consistency should be slightly liquid. This mixture must be applied to the wall and quickly rubbed with a polisher until a smooth surface is obtained.
Novice craftsmen who are working with plaster for the first time always benefit from the advice of experienced specialists. There are no difficulties, but there are still moments that confuse a non-professional.
The main question with which owners turn to more experienced friends for help is how to choose plaster for the job. There are four main types of this material.
They all have different characteristics and are used for different purposes:
- Facade. This material is intended for outdoor use. Facade plaster used outdoors for finishing garages or sheds, as well as for insulating corners in houses. As a rule, it is the least hassle with it, but it’s still not worth buying for your home.
- Chernovaya. This type of plaster is used for processing uneven walls or walls with large recesses. It is believed that this layer is applied before an additional, changing appearance walls. This approach will significantly save money when purchasing putty, because rough plaster is cheaper. And under a layer of putty and beautiful wallpaper all the shortcomings of this material will not be visible at all.
- High quality. Unlike the previous one, high-quality putty is no longer covered with anything. Treating the walls with this material is the final stage. This plaster is used before wallpapering or before laying tiles. However, it also has a peculiar disadvantage - it is not able to cope with serious cracks, crevices or other irregularities.
- High quality. This is the most expensive type of plaster. The walls after this treatment are smooth and even. To prepare walls for painting, predominantly high-quality plaster is used. But for other tasks it is not very suitable.
Some 20 years ago, plastering walls with cement mortar was the only way to level surfaces in rooms. But anyone who has encountered similar finishing from “Soviet” times knows how low quality it is.
However, the reasons are hidden not in the nuances of the material, but in the fact that the technology was kept to a minimum, and the builders did not bother with special alignment. But he has his own unique properties, and if you do everything correctly, you can get a decent result.
So, how to properly plaster walls with cement mortar?
It was the old “Soviet” cement finishing that received undeserved contempt among ordinary people. But experts know what its advantages are.
Cement-sand mortar creates durable coatings.
The finish is not afraid of water and dries quickly if it gets wet.
Fire-fighting properties make it possible to use it when repairing facades.
Fungus does not grow in such a base. 
The coating is vapor-permeable, the rooms are not completely sealed.
However, to get everything positive traits cement-sand plaster, you should follow the technology for preparing the solution, as well as methods and techniques for its application.
What do you need for work?
Tools
Materials
- Lighthouse profile;
- Metal plaster mesh (for reinforcement);
- Plasticizer;
- Cement;
- Sand.
However, before starting plastering work, it is worth carefully preparing the surfaces taking into account the wall material.
Plastering works
Preparing walls for cement-sand plaster
Cement-sand plaster has significant weight, under the influence of which it can simply fall off from unprepared surfaces. It is with the aim of creating a base on which the entire mass of finishing will be held that preparation is carried out, but another factor influences this - the wall material. 
Brick surfaces. The easiest way to make a support for the future applied coating is to arrange a sheathing. Why are nails or screws driven in onto which aluminum wire is screwed? If you plan to plaster brick walls in small areas, then it is quite acceptable to apply a layer of tile adhesive with a notched trowel, followed by drying it.
The most reliable technique is the use of steel plaster mesh. 
Block walls. Be sure to prime, and then you should coat them thin layer tile adhesive. However, even in this case, mesh reinforcement is best.
Shell rock. This material is textured and “holds” cement-sand plaster well. Before work, you can simply wet it well.
Wooden surfaces. It is impossible to plaster wood without reinforcement; the material will simply fall off. Therefore, the planes must be covered with reinforcing mesh. 
The most difficult thing is to prepare surfaces for plaster in old private houses, where the walls can be stacked with various materials, from clay and raw brick to rubble. The leveling of such walls with cement plaster is carried out at least approximately level and with reinforcement.
The mesh used is steel with a mandatory anti-corrosion coating. It is optimal to choose weaving with a cell size of 20×20 mm. Fastening is carried out on metal dowels, located in increments of 300-400 mm, and in a checkerboard pattern. 
The mesh is lightly pulled over the fasteners, after which you need to wind the knitting wire onto the fastening points, connecting them in a zigzag. The individual cuts are overlapped.
When everything is ready, you can proceed to plastering work with preliminary preparation of the level.
Preparation of plaster mortar
Cement-sand plaster is just a mixture prepared from these ingredients, diluted with water, to which today a plasticizer is added, which improves the properties of the composition.
The solution must be prepared in a concrete mixer, where all components are well mixed. 
But, plaster for walls can be easily prepared with your own hands, without mechanization, by mixing it using a hoe/shovel. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of cement and sand. The first one needs a brand no lower than M300, or M400 from a well-known manufacturer. You only need clean river sand (not quarry sand!).
Preparation proportions depend on the brand of cement. When using M300 - 1:3, and if mixing M400, then 1:4 (1 part mineralite, the rest sand). 
Attention, old stale cement should be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 3!
The preparation is as follows: sifted sand is poured into a concrete mixer, cement is added to it, after which the dry mixture is mixed, and only then water is gradually added. At the end you can add required amount plasticizer. The consistency of the finished plaster mixture should be thick and viscous. For large volumes of work, you should not prepare too much solution; it is optimal to use it in 1 hour.
Application of cement-sand plaster
It is worth immediately understanding that cement-sand plaster is applied according to the scheme from bottom to top!
Before plastering a brick wall, you need to moisten it generously with water or a liquid solution of cement and sand, after which you can begin the actual finishing work, which is carried out in three stages.
- Throwing plaster mixture onto the wall;
- Working as a rule;
- Grouting surfaces.
Installation of beacon profiles
The lighthouse profile is a strip made of aluminum or galvanized steel, along which you can set one level for the entire surface during plastering works. Such slats are more modern version lighthouses, previously in their absence they used marks such as slaps from cement, wooden blocks and other suitable materials.
To establish a single level today they use laser devices, allowing you to very accurately determine the parameters. But, you can do everything without expensive equipment, especially if you need it for a one-time use.
The most protruding part of the wall is determined by its level and will expose the entire horizon. Why can you pull the cords? Markings are made under the beacons, perpendicular to the floor and ceiling. The distance between them is determined relative to the length of the rule, that is, at least 100 mm less from the device.
The profiles can be attached to points made from prepared cement mortar, along which the slats are aligned with control using building level.
You can also use wooden plugs inserted into pre-drilled holes instead of patches from mortar (putty, tile adhesive).
When the horizon is established, a cement-sand mortar is prepared for work.
Application of the composition
Simply pour the plaster mixture convenient tool, and throw it onto the surface of the wall, covering it completely with a layer. As a device, you can use a ladle or trowel, with which a portion of cement mortar is placed from the bottom up and thrown onto the point with a sharp movement of the brush at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. 
Using this simple technique, the entire gap between the lighthouse slats is filled with the composition; it is important to reach the level established by these guidelines. If you need to lay a layer of plaster that is too thick, it is better to do it layer by layer in two or three stages.
Finishing work
The device is positioned perpendicular to the beacons, at an angle of 30-45 degrees, and is pulled from the bottom up in a smooth motion. It is important to distribute all plaster mass in the space limited by the guide rails, removing unnecessary residues. To evenly separate the entire cement-sand mixture, you can use slightly zigzag movements as a rule.
Having completely leveled the entire area, you can move on to the next one located nearby. Grouting is carried out after the mixture has completely dried. Required Tools- semi-polish, or grout board. Detected cracks can be coated with a solution and rubbed. By maintaining the temperature balance in the room, you can ultimately obtain an ideal surface.
About the fact that plastering walls - effective method Almost everyone knows how to eliminate defects and uneven surfaces. But when you need to do the work yourself for the first time, many questions often arise related to the technology of applying the solution to various surfaces. Let's look at how a beginner can plaster walls with his own hands: videos, photos and recommendations from experts.
Before you start plastering the surface, you need to accurately understand all the features and nuances of this process. In this case, there will be no insurmountable obstacles for the novice master, and the result of the work will be close to professional.
In addition to theoretical knowledge in this area, it is important to acquire basic practical skills that will help in further work. It's best to practice on a small, less visible area first. This will give you the opportunity to test your own capabilities and identify typical mistakes arising during the work process.
The experience of plastering will be useful to any owner of an apartment or private house who prefers to do repairs themselves. Plaster is often used to level the surface, which the walls of almost all old houses need.
It is important to choose the right plaster mixture, taking into account the features and material from which the wall is built. It is also worth considering the type of surface and features environment. This largely depends on whether the work will be carried out outside or inside the building. Let's consider the features of the technology for each type of surface.
How to plaster a brick wall with your own hands
To properly plaster a brick wall, it is better to use a mixture that was made on the basis of cement. Sometimes lime is included in the composition, which gives the mixture additional plasticity. This allows the plaster to be used in rooms characterized by high humidity. Or in the case when work is carried out outside the building.
The procedure for applying plaster to a brick wall is carried out taking into account the following recommendations:
- the layer of mixture that is applied to the brick wall should not be more than 30 mm. It is important to know that if the layer thickness is more than 20 mm, a chain-link mesh must be used as a base. This will keep the mixture layer in place and make it more reliable, preventing the coating from falling off the wall over time. Plastered in this way can be both external and interior walls building;
- In order for the coating characteristics to ultimately meet the requirements, it is necessary to correctly mix all the ingredients, observing the following proportions: to 1 part of cement, you need to add ¾ of sand, having previously cleaned and sifted it. After this, water is added and all components are mixed until the solution becomes plastic, while maintaining its thickness;
- Another option is a cement-lime mixture. To prepare it you will need 1 part cement, as well as 5/7 parts sand and ½ part lime paste. In this case, you first need to mix the cement and sand, and then add lime, previously diluted in water to the consistency of milk.
Helpful advice! If, as a result of preparing the plaster according to all the recommendations, the mixture still turns out to be too thick, you can add a small amount of water.
One of the most difficult cases is the need to plaster over facing bricks. Its surface is too smooth and this significantly impairs the adhesive properties of the plaster. In some cases, the use of reinforcing mesh may not be effective and the plaster crumbles into pieces or simply rolls off the surface. For such complex surfaces, there is an affordable solution in the form of special primer compounds.
Although many people prefer to do everything themselves by watching a training video. For beginners, plastering walls may seem too difficult a task, however, the necessary skill is formed quickly, and after just a few hours of training, applying the mixture evenly and beautifully will be much easier.
Note! A video on how a beginner can plaster plasterboard walls with his own hands can be very useful. This process has its own nuances and, if necessary, should be considered on an individual basis.
How to plaster walls: video instructions for working with a concrete surface
Working with a concrete surface has its own nuances. If the surface is smooth, you will need preliminary preparation and applying a primer to which quartz inclusions are added. This allows you to make the wall rough and ensure the necessary adhesion of the surface to the plaster. To enhance the adhesion of the mixture and the wall, it is recommended to add gypsum powder to the solution at the mixing stage.
What is the best way to plaster the walls inside a house if we are talking about a concrete surface? Gypsum is suitable for this purpose. mortar, which can be prepared using following components: 1 part gypsum and ¾ parts lime. First of all, gypsum is mixed with water. This must be done very quickly to prevent the mixture from thickening. Then add lime mortar and again quickly mix it all until smooth.
A complex preparation process is not required if the concrete wall initially has a rough surface. In this case it will be quite enough to use traditional technology applying plaster.
Helpful advice! Experts say that, regardless of the type of concrete wall that is to be plastered, it would be useful to first apply a layer of primer deep penetration.
How to plaster walls in a bathroom: advantages and disadvantages of various options
The answer to the question of how to plaster bathroom walls under tiles requires special attention. Difficult operating conditions characterized by high humidity and constant temperature changes can negatively affect the condition of the coating.
You have to choose what to plaster the walls in the bathtub from two options: cement and gypsum composition. The first option provides excellent waterproofing, which in conditions of high humidity is an undeniable advantage. In addition, the material is characterized by vapor permeability and extremely high strength.
Here's the use gypsum plaster for finishing a bathroom has some nuances that will have to be taken into account. First of all, this concerns the thickness of the layer. It should not exceed 20 mm. And before you start laying tiles, you must treat the surface with a primer.
Thus, in the bathroom it is better to plaster the walls with cement mortar. The material is easy to apply with your own hands, and its characteristics show that the coating will last for many years and will be a good base for tiles.
Separately, it is worth considering the question of how a beginner can plaster a ceiling with his own hands. Video tutorials demonstrate all the complexities and subtleties of this task, so the owner can only follow the recommendations to get a good result.
How to properly plaster walls with your own hands: features of working with foam concrete
One of the main conditions for working with foam concrete is the use of reinforcing mesh. In this case, it is permissible to use both gypsum and cement mortar. The main thing is to properly prepare the surface by treating it with a special impregnating primer that can penetrate deep into the surface. But sometimes you still need to use additional measures, for example, fixing a special reinforcing fiberglass mesh called “serpyanka”.
A responsible approach to the issue of choosing materials for plastering walls determines the service life of the coating, as well as the level of comfort during the work process. In specialized stores you can find ready-made mixtures for any type of surface. Therefore, if you don’t want to bother mixing the components yourself, you can simply purchase ready-made option. This product is simply diluted with water, after which it is ready for use. Moreover, the recommendations of the manufacturers will allow you to understand what is better to plaster the walls in a particular case.
Important! Considering the variety of dry building mixtures, it is very easy to get confused in them and buy something that is not quite what you need. Therefore, it is recommended to carefully read all instructions and recommendations provided by the product manufacturer.
How a beginner can plaster walls with his own hands: video instructions
It is necessary to carry out preparatory work, aimed at cleaning the surface from various types of contaminants and removing old finishing materials. This stage is important because it determines how well the plaster will hold up in the future.
In order to ensure reliable adhesion, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall, removing anything that may be between its base and the plaster. The cleaning method is selected taking into account the characteristics of the material from which the wall is made. All cracks identified during preparatory stage, must be eliminated to prevent cracking of the plaster in the future.
You can repair cracks in the wall different ways, each of which is suitable for a particular size of damage. Small cracks that extend deep into the wall will require widening to reach the narrowest part.
Having found its base, cleaning is carried out in order to remove dust and dirt. Then, using a brush, apply a generous amount of primer. When everything is completely dry, the crack can be repaired using putty made with gypsum or cement. Using a spatula, you need to try to level the “patch” with the wall surface as best as possible.
Shallow narrow crack It may well be sealed with sealant or silicone compound. Usually, the tube comes with a special nozzle with a thin spout, which allows you to easily carry out such operations by directing it deep into the crack.
If it is necessary to eliminate truly extensive damage, then for this purpose you can use polyurethane foam. Typically one coat of primer is applied and then the space is filled.
Helpful advice! If during work excess foam protrudes above the level of the wall, it can be easily removed by cutting it off with a sharp knife.
How to plaster a brick wall: surface preparation features
The best way to plaster brick walls inside a house is a controversial issue. However, regardless of the choice, a high-quality surface preparation procedure must be carried out.
Often we have to deal with what is on the surface brick wall There is already a layer of old plaster. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of it efficiently. To do this, you can use water and a sponge, wetting the surface several times and waiting until the water is absorbed. This procedure will make the task much easier.
After this, using a spatula, the thickness of the working surface of which is at least 1.5-2 mm, and also a hammer, the old plaster is knocked off. To do this carefully and at the same time effectively, you first need to carefully tap one of the sections of the wall with a hammer. As a result of this procedure, cracks will appear, which will allow the coating to be picked up with a spatula. If necessary, you can also tap the handle of the spatula with a hammer to facilitate the process of removing the old coating.
Related article:
Main types of mesh, principles of selection, areas of application, methods of plastering, application options, tips and tricks.
After removing a layer of old plaster, you need to walk over the surface with an iron brush or grinder. After this, you should start deepening the seams between the bricks. This will ensure better adhesion between the plaster and the wall. It will be enough to deepen them by 5-7 mm.
The final stage of preparing a brick wall is cleaning the surface with a soft brush and a damp cloth. Then all that remains is to apply a layer of deep penetration primer. Moreover, it is better to do this in two layers, first letting the first layer dry before applying the second.
Features of preparing the surface of a concrete wall
Compared to a brick wall, a concrete wall is much easier to clean. However, due to the smoother texture, it will be more difficult to apply the plaster in such a way that it sticks.
In order to remove a layer of whitewash from a concrete surface, you need to thoroughly moisten the sponge with water and wipe the wall. Then, using a wire brush, remove the unnecessary layer and thoroughly wipe the surface again.
Another way is to apply a thick layer of paste over the whitewash. After complete drying, using a regular spatula, the entire upper layer can be easily cleaned.
Having completed cleaning, you can proceed to applying shallow notches on the surface. This measure will ensure traction. Despite the fact that applying them will require a lot of effort and time, this process is very important and determines the result of the work, so this stage should not be neglected.
Some people prefer to use a simpler method that does not require notching - priming and adding quartz sand, followed by plastering the walls. cement-sand mortar. Due to the fine fraction, it is held on the surface, creating adhesion between the plaster and the wall. However, this method is not always effective, and to ensure its effectiveness, it is recommended to first test it on a small section of the wall.
Helpful advice! Determine how much effective method quartz sand will allow a simple test: a primer with sand is applied to the surface and left until completely dry. Then you need to run your hand along the wall. If the sand begins to crumble when touched, then you will have to worry about creating notches on the surface.
Features of preparing a wooden surface
The process of cleaning a wooden surface is the simplest of all the tasks considered. In this case, it is enough to knock on the wall with a hammer, and the plaster will simply crumble onto the floor. It is recommended to make bed in advance plastic film to avoid contamination and facilitate the cleaning process.
To fix the plaster on a wooden surface, you will need to fill special wooden slats. People call them shingles. Using ordinary nails, they are driven all over the wall, oriented diagonally. This allows you to create not only an excellent base for styling finishing material, but at the same time solves the problem of the need to create beacons, which are required to level the surface of the wall.
If, after removing a layer of old plaster, shingles are found underneath, it must be knocked down and a new one made. Wooden elements quickly become unusable, succumbing to rot, insects and the influence of time. In addition, old shingles often serve as a source of unpleasant odors.
It is important not to forget about the need to apply protection to all wooden surfaces and elements. An antiseptic is necessary to prevent the appearance of fungi, mold, and harmful insects in wood. The composition is applied to each element and to the wall before the shingles are installed, and then again after the installation is completed. This allows for the maximum level of protection.
There are cases when, instead of wooden slats, a metal mesh chain-link is used for sheathing. This is also an acceptable option, however, its thickness must be at least 3 mm, and fastening should not be carried out to the wall surface itself, but to slats specially prepared for this.
How to properly plaster walls with your own hands: video instructions for placing beacons
Since one of the main goals of plastering is to level the existing surface as much as possible, guidelines, otherwise called beacons, will be required. To understand how to plaster walls using beacons, you need to understand how and why they are placed. This is done using a building level in order to be able to make the surface as even as possible in the future.
Typically, metal guides are used for this purpose, fastened with gypsum mortar. This method is good because the plaster dries quickly and does not allow the profile to move, holding it in a given position. Such beacons should be placed at a distance of approximately 1.5 m from each other.
Helpful advice! If the existing level is too short and its length is not enough, in order to check the evenness of the beacons, you can use a long block. It is placed against one of the guides until the solution is completely dry, and a level is applied to its center.
As an example, you can see the instructions on how to plaster walls with your own hands without beacons. The video will clearly demonstrate other surface leveling options.
Rules for applying plaster to the surface
Plastering the surface consists of three stages, in each of which a layer of mortar is applied. Each of them is different and is laid using a special technology that best suits its purpose. The first layer is the thickest. It is thrown onto the wall and actually serves as a rough draft, on top of which more even and smooth layers will be laid in the future.
The first layer is applied using a trowel or simply by hand. It is only important to remember that if the solution comes into contact with the skin, you must take care of protection in the form of rubber gloves. The thickness of the first layer depends on the base: for a brick or concrete wall 5 mm will be enough, but for a wooden wall you will need a layer of about 8-9 mm, taking into account the lathing.
The second layer should be applied more carefully, but still it is not the finishing coat. It is applied using a wide spatula or trowel, bringing the solution to a dough-like consistency. The thickness of the middle layer should be about 7-8 mm.
The finishing layer is prepared with the addition of fine-grained sand, which does not contain large inclusions. The consistency of the solution should resemble sour cream in order to lie evenly and smooth out all the unevenness that remains after applying the first two layers.
For beginners in this matter, purchasing ready-made mixtures for each layer, which are available in any hardware store. Their compositions almost always promote good adhesion and provide durable and reliable coverage.
It is also worth first watching a video on how to plaster the corners of walls. Of course, it is easier to work with a flat surface, but leveling the corners may require some skill, especially considering how imperfect the initial data can be.
How to prepare a solution for plaster with your own hands
Despite the opportunity to save yourself the hassle and purchase ready-made compositions, many prefer to try to do everything themselves and prepare the plaster for each layer with their own hands. Let's look at a few of the most popular recipes that are widely used and have already gained trust:
- A cement mortar in which 3 parts sand must be added to 1 part cement.
- A lime-based solution in which 3 parts sand is added to 1 part lime.
- Cement-lime: 5 parts sand, 1 part lime and 1 part cement.
- Lime composition with the addition of gypsum: 1 part of dry gypsum is added to 3 parts of lime, mixed to a dough-like state.
Important! The resulting solution should be plastic and easily “spread” over the applied surface, but at the same time it should not flow down.
Before you start mixing the mortar according to the chosen recipe, it is useful to know that the prepared amount should be used within an hour, since in the future the plaster tends to lose some of its qualities, for example, plasticity. In addition, such “expired” material does not adhere well to the surface.
Particular attention should be paid to a solution prepared with the addition of gypsum, since this component significantly reduces the shelf life of the plaster before application to the wall. This solution must be applied immediately, immediately after preparation. In addition, the drying time will be affected by the thickness of the layer: a thin layer will dry almost instantly.
In order to avoid mistakes and spoil the portion ready mixture, you need to carefully study the instructions, and only after that proceed to adding water, since the setting and drying period may vary.
How to mix the solution yourself: rules and recommendations
To mix a high-quality mixture yourself, you must adhere to next order actions:
- You need to pour water into the container intended for mixing the solution. Then, according to the instructions, pour 6-8 trowels of the finished mixture and mix everything thoroughly using a construction mixer;
- the rest of the mixture is added gradually and during thorough mixing, which avoids the formation of lumps and gives the plaster plasticity and uniformity;
- then it is advisable to wait 2-3 minutes and mix the solution again. At this stage, you can determine whether there is a need to add water or a dry mixture to make the plaster thicker or, conversely, more liquid.
Once again, it is worth noting that one batch should consist of such an amount of material that can be used here and now. The recommendation is as follows:
- for a solution containing gypsum, the shelf life is limited to 25-30 minutes;
- if it was used cement base, then this period will be 40-60 minutes.
Wanting to give the surface a finished appearance, many people prefer to apply a layer of putty on top, which makes the surface perfectly smooth and serves as an excellent base for painting. The video on how to putty walls with your own hands tells in detail about all the nuances of this process and allows you to effectively complete Finishing work to level the surface.
How to putty walls with your own hands: video for beginners
You can learn how to properly plaster walls with cement mortar or a mixture containing gypsum by watching a thematic training video. The video on how to properly plaster walls tells in detail about the preparation and implementation of each stage.
In addition, in this way you can get answers to many questions of interest, for example, how to plaster the corners of walls and what needs to be done to further preserve the coating in original form. You definitely need to pay attention to the finishing stage - puttying the walls and their further processing.
Cement has been used for plastering walls for a long time, and during this time the material has managed to establish itself as a durable and reliable component of the plaster mixture.
Among the advantages of cement:
- low price,
- strength,
- moisture resistance,
- reliability.
We will tell you how to properly plaster walls with cement and how much cement is needed to plaster walls.
Cement plaster
Composition and properties
Cement plaster mixture refers to the usual compositions that are used to level walls.
Preparation is done with your own hands from three main components: cement, sand and water:
- Portland cement is used as a binder in the mixture. The grade of cement for plastering walls is selected based on the purpose of the material: for interior work You can use brands M200 - M400, and for this you can use M500. At the same time, for plastering wet rooms, more durable brands are chosen - M400 is quite suitable;
- Washed quarry sand of medium fraction is used as a filler. Also suitable is “hog sand”, which can be distinguished by yellow color. river sand it is less suitable for these purposes; it is also undesirable to use material that contains clay, silt or dusty impurities;
- The mixture of sand and cement is mixed with water. The water must be clean of debris, dirt, silt and other impurities; ordinary tap, technical, well or spring water will do.
Important!
Thanks to this simple composition, the solution forms a strong, durable and reliable coating that can last for decades and even longer if the preparation recipe and application technique were followed correctly.
Cement-sand plaster mixture can be used for facade work, since the material is not afraid of moisture and frost, and is also characterized by high strength and wear resistance. The surface quality is not the highest, however, considering that this technology is used for rough alignment, we can say that the result is more than acceptable.
To improve the quality of the surface and adhesion to the base, various additives are added to the classic composition:
- Lime. Improves the quality of the surface and the wearability of the coating, lightens the weight of the finishing layer, and improves vapor permeability. It is added in a slaked state in the form of a dough or an aqueous solution in a small amount - 0.2 - 0.7 of the volume of cement;
- Gypsum. Reduces the hardening time of the solution and improves the quality of the surface. And hard to reach places, where the speed of setting of the solution is important;
- Liquid soap. Increases the plasticity of the solution, as well as its adhesion to the base. Allows you to apply thicker layers, since the solution flows less and adheres better to the base; you can also note a more even and smooth surface;
- PVA glue. Increases the ductility, adhesion and strength of the material. The coating turns out to be monolithic and strong; in its characteristics it resembles polymer-cement plasters;
- Factory additives and plasticizers. Depending on the composition, they can be used to increase the plasticity, moisture resistance, frost resistance, strength and other characteristics of the solution. Also among such additives there may be antiseptics and antifungal drugs, which also improve the quality of the plaster.
Important!
One of the characteristic properties of cement mortars is their shrinkage, which is more pronounced than that of gypsum and lime compositions, so it is ideal to achieve smooth surfaces You won't be able to do it without using it.
Recipe and material consumption
The mixture for plastering is prepared manually. To do this, first mix sand with cement in the required proportion, then add water to this mixture while mixing, gradually achieving a paste-like consistency. Preparation methods may vary, but it is most convenient to use a small electric concrete mixer.
You can also stir the solution in a bucket or tray using a drill with a mixing attachment, but this method is unproductive, since the consumption of the solution is quite large. Finally, you can use the classic method and stir everything in the trough using a shovel.
To do this, sand and cement are poured over the entire area of the vessel and thoroughly mixed with a shovel, then water is added and stirring continues until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed.
Recipes and proportions for plaster mixtures there are different:
- For interior work in dry rooms, one part of cement and four to five parts of sand are usually mixed. If the cement is of low grade (M200 - M300), then the proportion is 1:4, for grades M400 and higher - 1:5. It is recommended to add 0.5 parts of slaked lime for ease of grouting and improve surface quality;
- For work in wet rooms - bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, basements and bathhouses - it is better to use material grade M400 - M500, to which moisture-resistant additives can be added;
- For facade work, it is advisable to use cement grade M500, since this area is more susceptible than others to the destructive effects of frost, precipitation, wind and solar radiation;
- To treat plinths, steps and other places with increased wear, it is better to use cement with polymer additives or magnesite. It is better to buy this mixture ready-made, but if you wish, you can prepare it yourself.
These proportions are given for the main layer of plaster, however, for spraying the walls and the finishing coating layer, solutions with a high cement content are used - 1:3, 1:2 or 1:1. Since these works require a small amount of material, they do not have a noticeable effect on the overall consumption.
Cement consumption for plastering walls with a component ratio of 1:4 (cement/sand) is approximately 5 - 7 kg per 1 square meter finishing with a layer thickness of 2 cm. The solution consumption in this case ranges from 20 to 24 kg per meter of area.
Installation
For those who are interested practical use knowledge gained, we have compiled step-by-step instruction for installation of cement plaster:
- The wall should be completely cleaned of old coatings, stains, dust and dirt, all cracks and large surface defects should be repaired, and the material should be impregnated with a deep penetration primer;
- Then we take galvanized or coated polymer paint metal mesh and stuff it onto the wall with dowels with wide heads. There must be at least 16 fastenings per meter of area, the mesh must be taut and not sag;
- In the upper corners of the wall we screw in a self-tapping screw and hang plumb lines on them, and in the lower corners we screw in two other self-tapping screws, on which we mark the place of contact with the thread of the plumb line, then in this place we tie the thread to the lower screw. Now, in the places where the vertical threads are attached, we tie the horizontal ones, with which we connect the upper and lower screws in pairs. We ensure that the distance from the wall to the horizontal threads is at least 1.5 - 2 cm;
- Along the horizontal threads we place beacons from metal profile, which are fixed with cement mortar or alabaster. The step between the beacons is 1.5 meters, the distance from the first and last beacon to the corner is 30 cm;
- We prepare the solution and throw it on the wall in a continuous layer using a special ladle or trowel. If the layer does not reach the beacons, then wait 6 hours and add a second layer, which we level with the rule, moving it along the beacons from bottom to top, not too quickly so that the solution has time to level. We remove excess material and return it to a common container;
- After the base layer has been applied and leveled, wait at least 6 hours and apply the finishing layer using a float, trowel or spatula, like putty, rubbing the material into the base surface. The thickness should be increased minimally; our task is to fill all the irregularities, pores and depressions;
- When 1 - 1.5 meters of the surface are coated with the finish, we begin to float it. To do this, clean and damp work surface We press the tool to the surface and perform rotational and zigzag movements, rubbing out all the pores and scratches, irregularities and pits. The protrusions will be cut off by the edges of the grater, gradually forming the most even and smooth surface.
Important!
When working with smooth surfaces with poor adhesion, you can apply notches to them and spray the wall with cement laitance (1:1 with sand and water to a liquid consistency).
To do this, dip a broom into the solution and hit the stick with it so that the splashes fly onto the wall.
Conclusion
Cement plaster is a cheap and effective way to level walls and prepare them for finishing decorative coatings or cladding. Installation of the material does not require expensive tools and is quite simple, as you can see by watching the video in this article.
