How to properly make a wooden ceiling for the upper floor. Construction of floors between floors: important aspects

When building a roof, special attention is always paid to the structure of the attic. After all, it is important that its covering be done technologically correctly, does not put unnecessary pressure on the walls and is able to withstand the load from things stored under the roof and sometimes an entire set of furniture.

Therefore, in this article we will understand in detail how an attic floor on wooden beams should be installed correctly: the features of its installation, calculation of loads and fastening. And our detailed illustrations will help you.

To begin with, we invite you to watch a short video review of the installation of an attic floor using wooden beams, and then we will look at the details:

What is an attic ceiling?

The ceiling is a horizontal load-bearing structure that separates the living floor from the attic space, and at the same time takes on the load from the weight of everything that is under the roof.

The floor itself is a necessary element of rigidity, which also provides stability to the entire structure. Among all the others, today we will highlight the attic floor, namely its specific type. Note that the general rules apply to all types, but some technical features in the arrangement of the attic floor on the beams there is still.

The first of these is rigidity and strength. Those. the overlap should be:

Capable of withstanding design loads and not bending or collapsing. For example, the permissible deflection is only 1 in 250 of the span length.
Secondly, the attic floor should not be flimsy, and in no case should it vibrate when objects are moved on it or people move on it.
And finally, soundproofed to avoid unpleasant squeaks when someone climbs into the attic.

In private construction, two types of floors are mainly used: wooden and reinforced concrete. The former are built on strong wooden beams, and the latter – on beams, slabs and in a monolithic version. Also, the beams themselves can be steel if it is necessary to cover fairly large spans. But it is precisely in private housing construction that the choice of flooring material is most often influenced by the economic factor.

The cost of installing floors usually amounts to up to 20% of the estimate for the entire construction of a house, and labor costs - as much as 25%. Therefore, the construction of a wooden attic floor is still quite popular - all thanks to its high performance characteristics and good sound insulation.

And one more important point: when making wooden attic floors, you do not need heavy lifting equipment, especially a concrete pump.

Advantages and calculation of beam floors

The entire structure consists of beams and boards, which are called rough. The beams themselves can be load-bearing, located simply next to each other, or fixed in a special way, which is much more reliable. Standard sizes beams - 20-40 centimeters in height and 15 meters long, plus 8-20 centimeters in width.

Unlike reinforced concrete attic floors, wooden ones are installed dry. It is much lighter in weight, so in private construction it is better to use just such an overlap. On the other hand, wooden floors are the least soundproofed, so you will have to spend money on additional measures.

The beams are located at a distance of 60 centimeters to 1.5 meters. Of course, the more often you install them, the greater the load the attic will be able to withstand in the future, but the foundation of the house will also have to endure a greater load.

Light partitions are usually mounted on a wooden attic floor - most often frame ones, to which the attic rafters are directly attached. They need to be installed perpendicular to the beams or edgewise.

But if interior walls For some reason, the attic has to be placed parallel to the ribs or beams, which is not at all according to the rules, then the structures in these places must be strengthened. Most often, fragments of boards are used as such elements, which are attached perpendicular to the ribs of the floor.

Options for installing attic beams depending on its type

Many people ask the question: where is the correct place to install wooden floor beams? Into the walls, onto the walls, or even bring them out a little? It depends on what type of attic you have and whether you will use it as a living space in the future. The attic is very popular today!

So, here is an economical option that allows you to convert the attic into an attic in the future without any problems. True, very tight:

And therefore, if you have such plans and even now you are not sure whether there is another place in the project for Personal Area or a billiard room, then make the walls higher to install the floor beams lower.

What will it give? In such an attic there will be much more usable space, fewer sharp corners and it will be much warmer:

But if in your project the attic was initially planned as a separate and spacious room, as if built on top of the house, then the attic beams need to be installed as strong as in the interfloor ceiling, and also secured to anchors in the reinforced belt:

Here's a great one step by step example how such attics are built and how strong such a floor should be:

Types of floor structures

There are several types of attic floors with wooden beams. Each of them has its own purpose and its own pros and cons.

Platform: for a cold attic

As for frame houses, the floors in them are recommended using the “platform” system. That is, after installing the walls, beams are laid and a certain platform is created, as it were, and a working foundation for the future floor of the attic at the same time. It is important here not to put unnecessary pressure on fragile walls, so the attic covering will also not be designed for a piano in the corner.

In this case, the beams are installed on strapping beam, which is used as a Mauerlat:

Rigid board: for uniform shrinkage

But in a house with walls made of logs or timber, according to the rules, a rigid shield is installed as an attic floor, which, when the walls shrink, will smoothly lower with them, and always evenly.

Economy flooring: to save time

Prefabricated wooden floors should be highlighted as a separate type of attic floors. Their main feature is the use of special fasteners, which are made of galvanized steel. Their thickness and quality are calculated depending on the level of future loads on the floor.

Standard attic floors on beams with timber and wooden joists appeared at the end of the 20th century, and after them wide board floors became more fashionable.

Ready-made trusses: for a residential attic

Today, special ready-made companies for arranging attic floors are also in fashion. In fact, this is not a new thing in the construction market; such companies appeared at the end of the 16th century and found their rebirth at the end of the 20th century. Canadian companies that were involved in construction developed special calculation programs for such companies and their exact shapes with assembly lines.

Ribbed beam floor: for private housing construction

In our country, new types of wooden floors are beginning to appear, which until now were popular only abroad. These are light wooden floors. They are relevant for private construction, when a fairly light wooden frame is used as a system.

The essence of the overlap is that “ribs” are installed every 30-60 centimeters, and they are covered with sheathing. Wooden beams with a height of about 20 and 28 centimeters, a thickness of 45 centimeters, and a length of up to 5 meters are taken as “ribs”. They are made from natural wood and connected with special bundles of boards, covered with chipboard or fiberboard sheathing.

Therefore, we highlight quick and simple installation as the main advantages of a ribbed attic floor. Of the minuses: the need for treatment with a fire retardant, less strength and low sound insulation properties. And, of course, such boards are more sensitive to sudden fluctuations in humidity and temperature. And also, if a fungus or some insect decides to eat such a ceiling in a few years, it will eat it much faster than thick beams.

From below, this structure is covered with a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard slabs. Placed between the ribs on top mineral wool. It is this that will provide fire resistance and sound insulation to the entire wooden floor.

Ribbed attic floors are much cheaper than beam floors - this is quite reasonable and rational if you do not insulate a non-residential premises and make a residential attic out of it. Then you don’t have to worry about the load-bearing capacity of such a foundation. The only negative is that the beams are more common for Russian houses, and the ribbed ceiling is almost the same appearance from monolithic. Therefore, in Russian houses, ribbed beam attic floors are more often installed.

The beam for constructing such an attic floor must be taken in a rectangular shape, and strictly, and not in a diamond shape. And be sure, when buying such timber, take with you the most common school ruler, because it often happens that many people are going to build a floor from 15x15 cm timber, but in the end they are built from 14x14 cm timber. And then, on your site, be sure to prepare a place for storage such timber and its processing.

By the way, today many even install ordinary timber in a wooden floor on its edge. The fact is that even a ruler, no matter what material it is made of, easily bends along its entire length, but if you place it edgewise, it will be almost impossible to bend it:

And on the rough floor from the boards, already lay a finishing floor, and mount it below suspended ceiling. But often wooden floor the attic is left without additional finishing on purpose, in view of the interior design concept, but then all its details are done very carefully and even with a decorative slope:

The suspended ceiling itself imparts a certain rigidity to the ribbed ceiling.

How to embed attic beams into walls made of different materials?

Today there are several ways to attach attic beams. Basically, installation is required perpendicular to the support beam, which is equal to maximum length floor beams. If the design does not provide for additional stiffening beams, then the attic floor beams should lie along the axes of the load-bearing wall posts. According to standards, floor beams must rest on the top frame of the walls and are attached to it with two nails 3.5x100 millimeters on each side.

But often in construction it is also necessary to use special fastening methods, and in order for you to better understand them, we have prepared high-quality master classes for you.

It is necessary to design a wooden attic floor based on the loads that will affect it. But keep this point in mind. Quite often, residential buildings are built with the expectation that they will be enough for the whole family. And such loads are divided into distributed and concentrated.

When designing an attic floor, you need to take into account distributed loads, and you can learn more about them from modern SNiPs. Concentrated loads should only be taken into account if you are definitely going to install some objects with a large mass in the attic.

For example, today it has become fashionable to arrange SPA salons, a billiard room, dance floors and rooms for musical training under the roof. But in practice it often turns out that 10 rooms in a house is not enough. And under the roof there is excellent ventilation, beautiful space and quiet enough to set up your personal office there.

The need to use special fasteners depends on what technology for arranging the attic floor you have chosen in general. So the most reliable way- this is to support the beams on the load-bearing surfaces of the walls or on the floor beams. Then there is no need or sense at all to use metal elements - the beams are fastened with screws or nails. In all other cases, it is imperative to secure the attic floor.

Therefore, we advise you to initially make such a strong attic floor that in a couple of years you can rebuild it into an attic with a clear conscience. And our special tables and computer programs will help you make special calculations. Your task is to correctly select the optimal cross-section of beams and their pitch. Everything else is just details.

Is a reinforced belt required?

First of all, decide whether you need an armored belt to install attic floor beams. Armopoyas is a reinforced belt, which is a closed structure along the entire contour of the building. The task of such an element is to distribute loads.

When installing wooden beams the attic floor must be installed and an armored belt must be built only if:

The walls of your house are built from gas block or foam block. After all, such material has a rather fragile structure, and at the same time the wooden beam floor has considerable weight. Due to its design, it always creates a point pressure on the blocks. And our task is to distribute this pressure and make it linear. So that the Mauerlat takes on the entire load.
Also, whether the foundation for your house is prefabricated FBS blocks, or the foundation itself is shallow, it is also important to correctly distribute the load from the attic over the entire base area of the house.

In all other cases, you can safely do without an armored belt.

Fastening beams to beams or frame

When floor beams are attached to a log frame or rounded logs, the easiest way is to use the frying pan technology. In simple terms, simply insert beams into the walls, like parts of a construction set.

Please note that the floor beams are fastened together with metal brackets:

Attaching to a metal I-beam

If you have to split floor beams along their length, then their parts should be joined with an overlap or with the help of special overlays, and spacers will also be needed between the beams themselves.

And if we are talking about planning a large area, then it is better to use a steel I-beam or a particularly strong one made of laminated wood as a support for the beams. In this case, be sure to leave a gap of 10 millimeters between the attic beams and the steel I-beam. It is important that the steel beam does not touch the ceiling sheathing. To prevent the floor beams from creaking in the future, lay additional soundproofing material or make the ceiling sheathing quite dense:

If you use auxiliary beams, they do not have to be placed inside the floor. These can be easily built into the wall or even used independently. And the beams themselves need to be mounted on so-called beam shoes:

The first step for such beams is to make a strapping. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to attach the harness itself to the walls of the first floor, as many people think.

The main thing is to properly prepare such beams for installation. And to do this, they must be treated with an antiseptic (and at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees Celsius). Then leave them to soak for a day. Now cut and lay such boards and a supporting beam on a wooden Mauerlat, previously impregnated with its fire and bioprotection. All that remains is to secure all the floor beams to the shoes.

And, when the ceiling of the beams is ready, make a subfloor, at least so that it is convenient to move on it.

Fastening to brick walls

If we are talking about attaching a wooden beam to a brick wall, then it is necessary to create a nest in it, even at the stage of constructing the walls themselves. The nest should be located 160 mm inside the wall (this is the minimum), and on a special board.

When inserting a beam into the wall, you need to fill it cement mortar or leave it open - everything here depends on the thickness of the wall:

So, a closed version is necessary when the wall thickness is two bricks.
Open - with a wall thickness of two and a half bricks.

In addition, the beam ceiling of the attic with brick walls must be reinforced with anchors in every third beam. The anchors should cover it from below and on the sides, and themselves should extend into the wall by 30–50 millimeters. It is also possible to connect beams to each other and on internal walls.

Attach beams to brick wall follows this technology:

Attaching to fragile block walls

If you are attaching wooden beams to a block wall, then you will need to build a reinforced concrete lintel. This is the same reinforced belt that we talked about earlier. It needs to be installed under a beam, specifically under wooden box, which goes into the wall. The beam itself will need to be installed on a reinforced belt in the wall, also at a minimum of 160 mm. And do not forget also about such an important point as the insulation on the side of the block and the gap on the side of the beam, which will ensure the escape of moisture.

Therefore, in order for modern lightweight blocks to withstand the wooden beams of the attic floor, follow this scheme:

If the blocks are quite strong and their physical qualities are close to brick, then use the following installation scheme:

Which timber is better to choose for the ceiling?

If you have now smoothly approached the issue of installing an attic floor, the first problem you will have to face is finding boards good quality. It is very important that neither the beams nor the flooring have any flaws, are not weakened and certainly do not suffer from any mold. Otherwise, such overlaps are life-threatening for the lives of household members.

Option #1 - beams made from ordinary boards

Let's separately note which beams need to be used when constructing an attic floor. The best option– boards 20-30 centimeters wide. The material used is pine or larch, which work well for deflection. It is this kind of wood that is durable in terms of deformation and less susceptible to cracks. According to official estimates, when using such material, it is possible to reduce the consumption of all wood by as much as 20%.

Option #2 – beams made of laminated veneer lumber

Glued laminated timber is also often used today as beams, the strength of which is several times higher than that of ordinary wood. The whole point is that any glued wooden crafts stronger. The whole secret is that the glue that is used gets into the pores of the two parts being glued together and forms many strong threads between them - much stronger than the fibers of the wood itself. And therefore, laminated veneer lumber as beams is a completely normal option.

In appearance, they do not differ from solid wood, especially when wood is used in the outer layers for aesthetic purposes the best variety. Such beams are made from lamella boards, which are cleaned of defects and glued together. The main advantage of this method is that the total length of the beams can now be up to 12 meters, and it will be much stronger, just with a wooden beam with the same parameters.

To make strong beams from OSB boards, they are cut into strips of different widths and milled. Next, the blanks are glued together, and they form a long endless strip, from which templates of a certain length are made. The main advantage of using such beams for attic flooring is their low weight and excellent strength and bending resistance.

Option #4 – I-beams

Another type of beams popular in Russia is I-beams. This is one of the strongest types of beams, and any flooring can be installed on top of them, not just plywood. And the plasterboard is hemmed underneath. These beams are so strong that it is more appropriate to install them as an interfloor ceiling for fully residential rooms, not only for the attic, and even more so for a cold attic.

The so-called Canadian I-beams are also popular. They are made in a factory from wooden blocks, OSB boards, special moisture-resistant boards, laminated veneer lumber or coniferous wood.

Option #5 – beams from ready-made trusses

For example, one of the most recent developments is ready-made attic trusses. Their height is 350 millimeters. They are made from dry wood with a cross-section of 100x50 mm. In the factory, such elements are combined into one structure using a special press with metal plates. Moreover, during the manufacturing process of such trusses, engineering communications are even placed inside them.

Option #6 – LVL beams

It is also worth noting that a relatively new material on the domestic market is LVL beams. These are high-strength homogeneous materials that are made by gluing under special pressure. Several layers of veneer are used, and during the manufacturing process of the beams the fibers are arranged strictly parallel.

The characteristics of such beams are special. The main advantage is that which beams have a large selection of sizes. The material itself lends itself perfectly to processing with almost any cutting tools. But given the price of LVL timber, we advise you to purchase it only if your attic floor will be located over a large span and your priority is quality and safety.

Option #7 – HTS beams

Another the new kind attic beams - German HTS. They are also an I-beam, where the top and bottom layers are made of wood, but the middle layer is made of OSB board.

Between these layers a profiled steel sheet 0.5 millimeters thick with a special polymer coating. Moreover, the steel itself has a wavy shape, due to which the beam has high load-bearing characteristics. And there may not even be one such wall, but two, which is even better for bending resistance. And to prevent the HTS beam from bending and twisting, hidden transverse connections are installed between the layers at a certain pitch.

The building structures in a house that separate different floors are called floors. They strengthen the frame of the house, connect the walls together, and serve as the basis for flooring and ceiling fastenings. They can be located between floors, between the roof and the lower room, and also separate the first floor and basement. In low-rise country houses and cottages, as a rule, wooden floors are used, and in attic rooms reinforcement of wooden floor beams is required. Wooden structures have great advantages, therefore they are widespread in individual construction. We will dwell in more detail on the advantages of wooden floors below, and also provide some recommendations for installation, construction technology and sound insulation methods. We'll show you how to avoid making mistakes when installing wooden floors.

Wooden floor construction

The most common material used for installation of interfloor, roofing and floor coverings is wood. Especially in private buildings, since this material is easy to process, environmentally friendly, and easy and quick to install. Restrictions on the span length of wooden floors are eight meters. The main load-bearing elements are beams with cross-sectional dimensions of 5x15 cm (minimum) and 14x240 (maximum). Sometimes sanded logs of suitable diameters are used to make beams. Varieties are used for covering coniferous trees, as the most durable. Before installation wooden structures needs to be dried well.

Advice!The quality of drying can be determined by tapping an ax on the products; the ringing and clear sound will confirm this.

Other structural elements are also used in floors to strengthen the beams, connect them firmly and create a reliable frame for the house. When constructing them, the following are used:

Skull block is a 5x5 cm wooden block, which, as a rule, is attached to the bottom of the beam, for hemming the ceilings below the located room.
Subfloor boards. Even low-quality boards – unedged and unplaned – are suitable for the device.
Floorboards are specially made, well-planed boards with tongue and groove.
Insulation material - it can be ecowool, polystyrene foam (penoplex), roll material for thermal insulation and .
Waterproofing and vapor barrier films that serve to prevent moisture from entering and remove condensation.
Antiseptic impregnations, bitumen, paint, roofing felt.
Decorative finishing materials.

Some features of wooden floors

As mentioned above, the design of the floors consists mainly of wooden elements, but the technology for finishing the floor and ceiling can be used by anyone modern material. Correctly installing the various parts into a single floor structure is an important task; in this case, the beams will be reliable and will last a long time. In particular, one of important functions floors - sound insulation. The advantage of wooden floors is that they can easily be attached to any insulating materials. The installation of decorative finishes is also good to give a modern design to the room. Another difference between wooden floors is that they do not provide additional load. Therefore, by choosing wooden structures, it is possible to save on the construction of a reinforced foundation for the house. Proper installation of floors between the levels of the house allows the rooms to “breathe”, they maintain the desired temperature and good sound insulation. Wooden beams are very reliable and durable.

Important! The distance between the beams is calculated depending on the number of storeys of the building, its area and floor loads. Varies from 60 centimeters to 1 meter.

The length of the beams is selected taking into account their strong support on the walls of the building in special nests.

The procedure for installing floors

Installation of floors begins during the construction of the house. Construction technology places certain demands on beams in terms of strength and degree of deflection. Therefore, before their manufacture it is necessary to make load calculations. After the calculations, it will be possible to correctly select the cross-section of the beams and the distance between them.

The preparatory stage before installing the floors consists of constructing nests in the walls for laying beams in them. Nests should be made with a depth of at least ½ the thickness of the wall or can be made through with further insulation and vapor barrier.
In log buildings, beams are cut into crowns. Before this, the beams should be treated with antiseptic solutions and then dried. The ends of the beams should be cut at an angle of 60 degrees, treated with bitumen and wrapped with roofing felt. The technology recommends starting the installation of beams from the outer ones. Horizontalness is checked with a level.
The actual construction of the floors is carried out after the construction of the walls and roof. At the bottom of the beams, on both sides, cranial bars should be fastened; they will serve as support for the subfloors. In addition, it is sutured to the cranial bars ceiling structure the room below. Skull bars are made from pine beams with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, impregnated with an antiseptic composition. Fastening to the beams is done with screws for wooden products.
The subfloor is not planed, not edged boards attached to the cranial bars. The thickness of the board can be small (about 16 mm), since the load on subfloors is not high. Subfloor boards laid perpendicular to the beams should also be treated with an antiseptic.
A waterproofing film (isospan or similar) must be laid on top of the subfloor. It is highly recommended to choose films that also have vapor barrier properties. Installation of the waterproofing sheet should be done overlapping, the joints should be secured with construction tape such as adhesive tape. The next layer is insulating material (bulk, tile or roll type). Its thickness is chosen so that the insulation does not exceed the level of the beams. It is strongly recommended to choose non-combustible material for insulating floors.
Next, the floors of the upper room are installed on top of the beams. Logs are laid from timber or from 0.4 mm boards in increments of 0.6-1 m. Logs laid across the beams are fixed with metal corners and self-tapping screws. For greater insulation, an additional layer of insulation can be made between the joists, which will also increase sound insulation. It is recommended to lay a waterproofing film again as the next layer to protect the lower floor from leaks, spilled liquids, etc.
A finished floor, plywood or tongue-and-groove flooring, is laid on the joists, on top of which it is possible to apply finishing: linoleum, parquet or ceramic tiles.
Under the finishing finishing it is possible to install electric or water heaters for heated floors. In this case, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier, which can be made with foil film.

The installation of such a ceiling, if done correctly, does not sag and can withstand an impressive weight.

Installation of sound insulation

An important factor is peace and quiet in your own home. Good sound insulation of the floors between floors will help achieve this. This must be done for the following reasons:

Wooden elements conduct sound well due to their structure and therefore wooden structures are a good repeater.
Constant extraneous noise coming from neighboring rooms makes life unbearable and the environment irritating.
Finishing and surroundings (furniture, drapes, carpets) also affect noise transmission.

The right kind of furniture in your home will help you create coziness and comfort in your home. Therefore, below we will consider how to avoid mistakes when installing soundproof floors between floors.

One of the common erroneous decisions in the construction of private houses is the use of mineral wool, since mineral wool is a poor noise insulator. In addition, mineral wool contains microparticles harmful to the body and its use in residential premises is not advisable. Another error when installing floors in wooden house– savings on lags. In this option, there is no lattice floor scheme and vibration of the floor and ceiling is formed. In the corners of all rooms in the ceilings, through holes must be made for ventilation and air circulation. It is better to cover them with decorative grilles. The layout of their location is important, since the ventilation holes should not be placed directly one above the other, otherwise all the noise insulation work will be in vain. In other words, when installing ventilation holes in the right corner, the hole below should be made in the left. For each ceiling between floors, two openings are required, usually located diagonally across the rooms. We will be glad if our recommendations are useful when building a house, and you can protect it from cold and noise.

In the construction of private low-rise buildings, wooden floors are mainly used. The use of wood does not burden the structure and allows you to do without the use of machinery. Installation of wooden floors between floors in brick house will help significantly save on strengthening the foundation. In addition, wood has good strength, durability, and also helps maintain a favorable indoor microclimate.

Advantages and disadvantages of using wood

The positive aspect of using wooden floors is the ease of installation and excellent quality of the material:

environmental friendliness;
thermal insulation;
decorativeness.

Among the disadvantages of wood are:

tendency to damage by microorganisms, fungi, pests;
rotting and destruction;
Low-quality material can be deformed, sag, and if installation rules are violated and the fit is loose, the floor will creak and vibrate.

Materials for installation of floors

Popular covering option

To make beams for the floors between floors, only coniferous wood is used.. They have higher bending strength than deciduous tree species. The timber or logs for the beams are first dried in the shade in the open air. Wood that is completely ready for use should produce a certain sound when tapped. Floor beams must be tightly fixed in the nests of the brickwork. Beams made of timber or logs with a cross section of 50 by 150 mm and 140 by 240 mm are used. The pitch of the beams corresponds to approximately 0.6-1.0 meters.

The ratio of the cross-section of beams and the distance between them

Also used for floors:

planed tongue and groove boards for the floor on the second floor;
board for the subfloor of the second floor;
cranial bars 50x50 mm for fastening to the bottom of the beams;
insulation (fibre insulation);
water vapor barrier film;
decorative covering on the floor and ceiling;
wood antiseptic, bitumen mastic, roofing felt.

Wooden floor installation

The laying of floor beams in a brick house is carried out at the stage of its construction. The depth of the nest should be at least half the thickness of the wall. It can be made through with further sealing with insulation. All other work is carried out before finishing work begins. The load on the interfloor floor is calculated in advance, the laying step and the dimensions of the required beams are determined. The use of wooden beams for floors is possible only in a house where the spans are no more than five to six meters long.

Beam installation principle

You can also place beams by laying them on brick pillars. However, they should be installed at short intervals. This method is most often used when equipping basement floors.

Laying beams

Laying begins with the outer beams, leveling them using mastic-treated linings and a long strip placed on the edge. The intermediate elements are leveled on boards laid on the outer beams.

The wood is pre-treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.. When laying, the wide sides of the beams should be positioned vertically - this increases their rigidity. The ends of the beams are cut off acute angle, lubricated with mastic and wrapped in two layers of roofing material.

Treated lintels are placed in the niches, and a layer of mineral wool is inserted into the resulting recesses. Every third beam should be strengthened using anchors. Using a stretched cord, the maintenance of the level is monitored. The step between structural elements is no more than 1.5 meters.

Subfloor installation

Water vapor barrier (isospan) is laid overlapping on the ceilings and subfloor. The joints are taped with tape. Fire-resistant insulation is placed on top of the film. This can be mineral wool, foamed polystyrene, ecowool, expanded clay. The material should not protrude beyond the surface of the beams.

Insulated floor

The floor joists of the second floor are installed on top of the ceilings. It is advisable to lay an additional layer between the joists. mineral insulation to isolate the floor and ceiling from noise. Then the waterproofing film is laid.

Upper floor arrangement

The floor of the second floor is covered with a finishing board, plywood or plasterboard, and also reinforced with self-tapping screws. Then the flooring is laid in the form of laminate, linoleum, tiles.

To properly make a “warm floor”, you should use foil film as a vapor barrier.

Beam connection in length

If there are not enough beams for the entire span, then a connection must be made:

Splicing is a connection in length.
Joining – alignment in width.
Knitting is a corner connection.

The principle of connecting beams

Mainly a lengthwise connection is required. There are several ways to do this:

Overlay– beams are cut at an angle and connected with bolts, brackets or a clamp.
Back to back– connection of beams overlay with emphasis on the internal wall partition.
Locking- a complex connection method that requires certain skills. Its essence is that recesses and protrusions are cut out in the beams, which are then connected, securely fixing the device together.

Improving the load-bearing capacity of the floor

There are several ways to improve the load-bearing capacity of beams. One of the most popular methods is attaching overlays from thick boards to them.. Their ends must rest on supports.

Improvement of load-bearing capacity by strengthening U-shaped channels is also used. They are attached to the beams from the side.

The most basic method to strengthen the floor between floors is to lay additional beams in the spaces between existing ones.. This is the most labor-intensive, but very effective method.

In houses of the previous construction, they generally did not save on materials, so wooden beams were installed with small spacing. And their cross-section is more than sufficient. But even in such a house, the overlap between floors should be checked to determine the condition of the beams. This will allow timely strengthening of weakened areas and replacement of damaged areas. The damaged fragment of the beams is removed, and the healthy wood is lengthened and strengthened by attaching overlays from thick boards.

How to protect the floor between floors

It is not enough to simply build a house correctly; it must also ensure that no problems arise during operation. To do this, even at the design stage, all factors contributing to its durability and protection are taken into account. building structures. The solution of two problems is of no small importance - protection from fire and biological influence of the environment.

Based on flammability, materials are divided into five categories, ranging from highly flammable to non-flammable. Structures made from various materials are distinguished by their ability to prevent the spread of fire. Fire-resistant properties - completely eliminating the spread of fire and semi-fire-resistant - capable of delaying its spread for some time. It should be noted that flammability is not the same as fire resistance. Fire resistance is understood as the ability of a structure or material to maintain load-bearing and enclosing functions in the event of a fire.

Protection from fire, fungus and insects

For these purposes, the wood is treated with fire-resistant solutions to ensure fire resistance for at least 30 minutes under experimental conditions. In residential construction, the structure of the second floor floor structure must have at least semi-fire-resistant properties.

When drawing up a design for floors, it should be borne in mind that beams are exposed to fire not only from the bottom side, but also from the sides.

The combustion rate of coniferous wood, according to resistance parameters, is 0.8 mm/min. Taking into account fire resistance, you should choose a material with a cross section of 11 by 24 cm, because with a beam height of 24 cm and a span width of 5.8 to 5.85 m, their width is increased to 120 mm or more.

The problem of protecting wooden structures from biological influences is also very relevant.:

water, which disrupts the structure of the tree and is a breeding ground for microorganisms.
mold fungi, rot.
insects that cause damage to the wood structure and rottenness.
ultraviolet radiation, which contributes to the softening and darkening of wood.

Unlike other materials, wood is an environmentally friendly product, which is important for living spaces. In addition, wooden floors retain heat well in the house. Now there is a tendency to return to natural materials that were previously used everywhere. Means have already been created to effectively protect wood from harmful influences that worsen its performance characteristics.

Among the many structural elements In a private house, the ceiling is one of the most important and difficult components to design and install. This is where inexperienced builders make, perhaps, the most dangerous mistakes; it is about the arrangement of this system that the most questions are asked.

1. Why choose a tree

In any building, the ceiling is a horizontal structure that serves as the basis for creating the floor. In addition, being connected to the load-bearing walls of the house, it provides lateral stability to the structure, evenly distributing possible loads. Therefore, the highest demands are placed on the reliability of this design.

Regardless of what material is used in the construction of a house, wooden floors are most widespread in the private sector. They can often be seen in various stone cottages, and it is quite obvious that in wooden construction (log, timber, frame and frame-panel technology) there is no alternative to such a decision. There are many objective reasons for this. Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of wood floors.

In private low-rise construction ceilings are mounted in several options:

Ready reinforced concrete slab,
Monolithic reinforced concrete slab,
Ready-made reinforced concrete beams,
Beams and trusses made of rolled metal,
Flooring made of lumber.

pros

Or why wooden floors are so popular.

Small mass. When using a board or timber, we do not overload load-bearing walls and foundation. The weight of the ceiling is several times less than that of concrete or metal structures. Usually no technology is required.
Minimum deadlines for completing work. Minimum labor intensity among all options.
Versatility. Suitable for any building, in any environment.
Possibility of installation at sub-zero and very high temperatures.
No “wet” or dirty processes.
Possibility of obtaining any level of thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics.
Possibility of using cavities for laying utilities (electrical network, heating, water supply, sewerage, low current...).
Relatively low price prefabricated frame floor from lumber, both in terms of the cost of parts/components and the contractor’s wages.

Minuses

The disadvantages of a wooden ceiling system made of wood are quite conventional.

The difficulty of choosing the cross-section of materials and design solutions to ensure the calculated load-bearing capacity.
The need to carry out additional fire prevention measures, as well as provide protection from moisture and pests (antiseptic treatment).
The need to purchase soundproofing materials.
Strict adherence to technology to avoid construction errors.

2. What material to use for assembly

Wooden flooring always consists of beams. But they can be made from a variety of lumber:

Rounded log up to 30 cm in diameter.
The beam is four-edged.
Large section board (thickness from 50 mm, width up to 300 mm).
Several boards of relatively small thickness, twisted face to face.
I-beams, the upper and lower chords of which are made of edged planed boards/bars, and the vertical wall is made of OSB-3, plywood or profiled metal (wood-metal product).
Closed boxes made of sheet materials (plywood, OSB).
SIP panel. In essence, these are separate sections in which the beams are already sheathed and have an insulator inside.
Various truss designs, allowing to cover large spans.

The easiest options for installation, as well as the cheapest and most convenient for subsequent operations, are those where the floor beams are made of edged lumber.

Due to the very high requirements for load-bearing capacity, durability and geometric deviations, first-grade lumber must be considered as blanks. It is possible to use products classified as second grade according to GOST, which do not have critical geometric deviations, defects and processing defects that can reduce the strength characteristics and service life of finished parts (through knots, twists, cross-layers, deep extended cracks...).

In these structures, the use of dead wood (dead wood, dead wood, burnt wood) is excluded due to insufficient strength and multiple damage to wood-destroying diseases and insects. It would also be a big mistake to buy a timber or board “with air”, “with Armenian size”, “TU” - due to the underestimated sections.

It should be exclusively healthy stuff from green spruce or pine, since needles, due to their resin content and the structure of the massif, withstand bending loads and compression much better than most hardwoods, and having a relatively low specific gravity.

In any case, edged lumber must be freed from remnants of bark and bast fibers, treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. Dry planed lumber will perform best here, but material with natural humidity (up to 20 percent) during normal processing is also actively (and most importantly, effectively) used, especially since the price of edged timber or boards of this type is noticeably lower.

3. How to choose the size of beams and at what step to arrange them

The length of the beam is calculated in such a way that it covers the existing span and has a “margin” to provide support on load-bearing walls (read below for specific figures for permissible spans and wall penetration).

The cross-section of the board/beam is determined depending on the design loads that will be exerted on the floor during the operation of the building. These loads are divided into:

Permanent.
Temporary.

Temporary loads in a residential building include the weight of people and animals that can move along the floor, moving objects. Constant loads include the mass of the lumber of the structure itself (beams, joists), floor filling (insulation/noise insulation, insulating sheets), hemming (rolling), rough and finishing flooring, finishing flooring, partitions, as well as built-in communications, furniture, equipment and household items...

Also, you should not lose sight of the possibility of storing objects and materials, for example, when determining the load-bearing capacity of the floors of a non-residential cold attic, where unnecessary, rarely used things can be stored.

The sum of the dead and live loads is taken as a starting point, and a safety factor of 1.3 is usually applied to it. Exact figures (including the cross-section of lumber) must be determined by specialists in accordance with the provisions of SNiP 2.01.07-85 “Loads and Impacts”, but practice shows that the load values in private houses with wooden beams are approximately identical:

For interfloor (including under a residential attic) and basement floors, the total load is about 350 - 400 kg/m2, where the share of the structure’s own weight is about 100 kilograms.
For covering an unloaded attic - about 130 - 150 kg/m2.
For covering a loaded non-residential attic up to 250 kg/m2.

It is obvious that unconditional safety is of paramount importance. Here a good margin is taken into account and the option is considered not so much of distributed loads on the entire floor (in such quantities they are practically unrealistic), but rather the possibility of a local load that can lead to deflections, which in turn caused:

physiological discomfort of residents,
destruction of components and materials,
loss of aesthetic properties of the structure.

By the way, certain deflection values are allowed by regulatory documents. For residential premises, they can be no more than 1/350 of the span length (that is, 10 mm at 3 meters or 20 mm at six meters), but provided that the above limiting requirements are not violated.

When choosing the cross-section of lumber to create a beam, they are usually guided by the ratio of the width and thickness of the beam or board in the range of 1/1.5 - 1/4. Specific figures will depend, first of all, on: loads and span lengths. At independent design You can use data obtained from calculations using online calculators or publicly available tables.

Optimal average cross-section of wooden floor beams, mm

Span 3 mSpan 3.5 mSpan 4 mSpan 4.5 mSpan 5 mSpan 5.5 mSpan 6 m

As you can see, in order to increase the load-bearing capacity of the floor, it is enough to choose lumber with a larger width or greater thickness. It is also possible to assemble a beam from two boards, but in such a way that the resulting product has a cross-section no less than the calculated one. It should also be noted that the load-bearing properties and stability of a wooden floor increase if logs or various types of subfloors (sheet flooring made of plywood/OSB or edged boards) are used on top of the beams.

Another way to improve the strength properties of a wooden floor is to reduce the spacing of the beams. Engineers in their projects of private houses determine different conditions the distance between the beams is from 300 mm to one and a half meters. IN frame construction The pitch of the beams is made dependent on the spacing of the posts, so that there is a post under the beam, and not just a horizontal frame run. Practice shows that the most appropriate from the point of view of practicality and cost of construction is a step of 600 or 1000 mm, since it is best suited for the subsequent installation of insulation and noise insulation by surprise (insulating materials have just such a form factor of plates and rolls). This distance also creates optimal distance between support points for mounting floor joists installed perpendicular to the beams. The dependence of the cross section on the pitch is clearly visible from the numbers in the table.

Possible cross-section of floor beams when changing the pitch (total load on square meter about 400 kg)

4. How to properly install and secure beams

We have decided on the step - from 60 centimeters to a meter will be the golden mean. As for spans, it is best to limit yourself to 6 meters, ideally: four to five meters. Therefore, the designer always tries to “lay” the beams along the smaller side of the house/room. If the spans are too large (more than 6 meters), then they resort to installing load-bearing walls or support columns with crossbars inside the house. This approach makes it possible to use lumber of a smaller cross-section and increase the spacing, thereby reducing the weight of the floor and its cost for the customer with the same (or better) load-bearing characteristics. As an option, trusses are created from lighter lumber using metal perforated fasteners, for example, nail plates.

In any case, the beams are placed strictly horizontally, parallel to each other, maintaining the same pitch. The wooden beam must rest on load-bearing walls and purlins by at least 10 centimeters. As a rule, use 2/3 thickness outer wall from the side of the room (so that the end of the beam does not go out onto the street and remains protected from freezing). IN wooden walls they make a cut, in stone ones they leave openings during laying. In places where the beams of supporting structures touch, it is necessary to lay insulating materials: damping elastic pads made of rubber/felt, several layers of roofing felt as waterproofing, etc. Sometimes they use firing of sections of the beam that are subsequently hidden or coating them with bitumen mastics/primers.

Recently, special perforated brackets “beam holders/supports” have been increasingly used to create floors, which allow the beam to be mounted end-to-end with the wall. Using this type of brackets, units with transverse crossbars and beams truncated in length are also assembled (an opening for flight of stairs, chimney passage, etc.). The advantages of this solution are obvious:

The resulting T-shaped connection is very reliable.
The work is done quickly (there is no need to make cuts, it is much easier to set a single plane).
No cold bridges are formed along the body of the beams, because the end is moving away from the street.
It is possible to buy lumber of shorter length, since there is no need to insert the timber/board inside the wall.

In any case, it is very important, after adjusting the lumber to size, to thoroughly antisepticize the end of the beam.

5. What insulating layers should be used inside wooden floors

To answer this question, first of all, it is necessary to divide the overlapping structures (in a year-round habitable house) into three separate types:

Basement ceiling,
Interfloor,
Attic.

In each specific case, the set of pie will be different.

Interfloor ceilings in the vast majority of cases separate rooms in which temperature regime similar or close in value (if there is room/floor/zone adjustment heating system). These also include the attic floor, which separates the residential attic, since this room is heated, and the insulation is located inside the roofing pie. For these reasons, thermal insulation is not needed here, but the issue of combating noise, airborne (voices, music...) and shock (steps, rearranging furniture...) becomes very relevant. As sound insulation, acoustic fibrous materials based on mineral wool are laid in the ceiling cavity, and sheets of sound-proofing membranes are also laid under the sheathing.

The basement design assumes that under the ceiling there is soil or a basement, cellar, or ground floor. Even if the room below is equipped for use, this type of floor requires full insulation, characteristic of the enclosing structures of a specific climate zone and a specific building with its unique thermal balance. According to the standards, on average for the Moscow region the thickness of a modern insulation with good thermal conductivity will be about 150-200 mm.

Similar thermal insulation requirements apply to the attic floor, which does not have a heated attic above it, because it will be the main barrier to heat loss through the roof of the building. By the way, due to the greater flow of heat through the upper part of the house, the thickness of the insulation here may be required more than in other places, for example, 200 mm instead of 150 or 250 mm instead of 200.

They use polystyrene foam, EPS, mineral wool with a density of 35 kg/m3 in slabs or cut into mats from a roll (the one that is allowed for use in non-load-bearing horizontal structures is suitable). Thermal insulation is laid between the beams, usually in several layers, with the joints bandaged. The load from the insulation is transferred to the beam through the rough hemming (often it is attached to the beams using cranial bars).

Where wadding insulation/sound insulation is used in structures, it should be protected from moisture. In the basement, moisture can rise in the form of evaporation from the ground or from the basement/cellar. Water vapor can enter interfloor ceilings and attics, which always saturates the air in residential premises during human activities. In both cases, underneath the insulation you need to lay construction material vapor barrier film, which can be ordinary or reinforced polyethylene. But, if thermal insulation is performed using extruded polystyrene foam, which does not have any significant level of water absorption, then a vapor barrier will not be needed.

On top, insulation and fibrous soundproofing materials are protected with waterproof sheets, which can be membranes or non-perforated waterproofing.

A reliable water barrier is especially relevant in rooms with high humidity: kitchen, laundry room, bathroom... In such places it is spread on top of the beams, always with the strips overlapping by 100-150 mm and gluing the seam. The canvases along the entire perimeter of the premises must be placed on the wall - to a height of at least 50 mm above the finishing coating.

The ceiling, which will later be lined tiles, it makes sense to supplement with rough flooring made of waterproof sheet materials - various types cement-containing slabs, preferably tongue-and-groove. On such a continuous flooring, you can carry out additional coating waterproofing, perform thin-layer leveling of the plane with leveling compound, or lay tiles immediately.

You can choose another option - assemble a continuous flooring from edged boards, lay a hydraulic barrier, pour a thin-layer screed (up to 30 mm), and install tiles.

There are also modern adhesive compositions(and elastic grouts) allowing tiling wooden bases, including movable and heated ones. Therefore, tiled floors are often sold here on moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.

Important! Taking into account the increasing loads (general or local - a large bathtub, a Jacuzzi bowl, a floor-standing boiler...), the calculation of the cross-section and pitch of beams under such rooms must be performed individually.

If desired, floors in the bathroom or kitchen wooden house can be equipped with a heating cable or pipes of the water circuit of the heating system. They are mounted both in screeds and a layer of tile adhesive, and between joists in a deliberately created air gap. With any chosen option, the ceiling must be well insulated so as not to heat the ceiling of the room from below, preferably equipped with waterproofing with a reflective foil layer.

An example of an attic floor on wooden beams

Flooring with wooden beams is a load-bearing structure that separates adjacent rooms: floors, attic, underground. When constructing it, factors such as load-bearing capacity, sound and heat insulation, seismic resistance and heat resistance are taken into account. This building regularly experiences loads and atmospheric influences, so it must meet the criteria of strength and wear resistance. According to their purpose, floors are classified into basement, interfloor and attic.

Design work includes planning the supporting structure, as well as calculation and selection of materials. For various floors, beams of the appropriate type are used. Most often, wooden beams are classified according to external characteristics: cross-section, composition and load-bearing capacity:

board– a simple structural material used in the construction of sheathing and subfloors;
I-beam– a structural material with a cross-section in the form of the letter H. The I-beam allows you to reduce total weight structures without losses in load-bearing capacity;
LVL-beam– a beam made of laminated veneer, made by gluing peeled softwood: pine, spruce, larch. It has high strength levels under horizontal load. Used in construction rafter legs, beams interfloor ceilings, as well as ridge beams;
combined beam– laminated veneer lumber, which includes veneer from several types of wood;
four-edge beam– quadrangular lumber with 4 processed sides. It is most popular in the construction of any type of floor;
double edge beam(carriage) – lumber having 2 processed sides opposite to each other. Despite the relatively low strength indicators, the carriage is often used in the construction of interfloor ceilings;
rounded log– milled lumber from a single piece of wood, characterized by the highest load-bearing capacity. Maximum load per 1 sq. m of beams of this type is 500 kg. However, due to round shape Rounded logs are more often used in the construction of attic floors rather than interfloor floors.

When preparing beams, preference is given to coniferous species due to their increased strength and resistance to putrefactive processes. Analogues of spruce, larch and pine can also be acacia, oak or maple. These wood species are characterized by low humidity levels (from 12% to 14%). Over the years, the strength of beam floors increases due to the evaporation of moisture from their surface. After 5 years of shrinkage, the strength of the timber approaches the strength of metal beams.

Horizontal load-bearing structures come in several types:

interfloor covering on wooden beams;
attic floor;
basement floor.

Once the type and material of the beams have been determined, builders begin calculating the potential cross-section. The choice of beams with a particular cross-section directly depends on indicators such as:

per 1 sq. m. – the estimated mass that will have a permanent/temporary impact on the supporting structure. You can calculate the load yourself using one of the online calculators;

span length (DP) ;

step - distance between adjacent beams (50 cm, or 1 m).

Mon	150	250	350	450
2 m	50×100	50×100	50×100	50×120
2.5 m	50×100	50×120	50×130	100×100
3m	50×120	50×140	50×160	100×120
3.5 m	50×140	50×160	50×180	100×160
4 m	50×160	50×180	100×160	100×180
4.5 m	50×180	100×160	100×180	100×200
5 m	100×160	100×190	100×210	100×190
5.5 m	100×180	100×190	100×200	100×220
6 m	100×200	100×200	100×250	100×220

Table 1 — Section of beams at a step of 0.5 meters

Mon	150	250	350
2 m	100×100	100×110	100×120
2.5 m	100×110	100×120	100×130
3m	100×120	100×130	100×150
3.5 m	100×140	100×160	100×180
4 m	100×160	100×190	100×200
4.5 m	100×180	100×200	100×220
5 m	100×190	100×210	100×230
5.5 m	100×200	100×220	100×240
6 m	100×220	120×230	120×250

Table 2 — Section of beams at a step of 1 meter.

The number of beams for the floor is calculated using the following formula:

KB = DP/Sh, where:

KB – number of beams of the established section;
DP – span length;
Ш – step.

The total number of beams depends on the number of spans.

Flooring technology using wooden beams

The maximum load-bearing load on the floor in residential premises is about 400 kg per 1 m2. Based on this value, beams of the appropriate section are purchased.

In outbuildings, bathhouses, garages and other non-residential premises, the load varies from 100 to 300 kg. per m 2. Based on these indicators, beams with a smaller cross-section are selected (see Tables 1 and 2).

It is worth noting that each beam must have an allowance of 30 cm to the main length. This is necessary for installing the timber into the wall. So, for example, for spans of 3 meters, beams 3.3 meters long are used.

The beam installation technology has a number of features, among which are the following:

The step depends on the type of building. IN wooden buildings the beams are laid parallel to each other at a distance of 1 meter, in frame houses - at a distance of 50 - 60 cm;
The height of the beam should not be less than 1/24 of its length. Lower values reduce the strength of the structure;
The optimal width of the beam is equal to its height, or half the height.
The distance from the nearest beams to the stove should exceed 30 cm.

Basement floors are installed according to the “pie” principle. The supporting structure consists of the following layers:

rough floor;
waterproofing;
insulation;
load-bearing beams;
logs;
floorboards.

Construction of floors on wooden beams

Flooring technologies differ only in the type of beam fastening. When installing floor beams, hinged and recessed fastening methods are used. In the first case, metal canopies - beam supports - are mounted on opposite walls at equal distances from each other. Once all the supports are in place, the floor beams are snapped into them. This type of fastener is suitable for rooms with a strip foundation, brickwork, as well as in aerated concrete structures. The canopy will provide the beam with maximum fixation in the groove.

With recessed fastening methods, a hole is cut at the base of the walls for the beams. Before installing the timber, this recess is lined with tow. In this case, the ends of the beams can be processed like a lock. For example, the tenon and hole are often ground down to a trapezoidal shape and fastened using the dovetail principle.

This method is considered the most complex and effective.

The basement floor installation technology consists of several stages:

Marking and construction of nests. By using building level and a measuring tape along the first beam (order) from the foundation, the beam spacing is set. After this, nests are drilled or cut at the marks with a cross-section 5-6 cm larger than the beam and a depth of 10 to 15 cm. The nests are lined with insulation.
Installation of timber. The logs are mounted in recesses. The first and last beams fit tightly to the adjacent wall. The gaps between the nest and the beams are caulked with tow or other insulation. If necessary, fixing canopies are attached to the beams and the wall. In cases where it is impossible to drill nests, ceilings are installed only on canopies ( brickwork), or secured using side slats (wooden walls).
Floor screed. Boards are laid on the beams. The end of the first board is pressed tightly against the adjacent wall. The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 degrees. The end of the second board is pressed against the end of the first and attached to the beams using the same technology. Depending on the length of the span, 1 board can take from 4 to 10 nails. For floors in residential premises, five-piece boards and No. 12 nails are optimal.

After installing the basement floor, the subfloor is laid facing material: Fiberboard, laminate, linoleum and others.

Installation of interfloor floors using wooden beams

The covering of the second floor using wooden beams is carried out using the same technology as the installation of basement structures. The main difference between the interfloor flooring and the floor flooring is the presence of a double subfloor. In this case, the lower subfloor is the ceiling of the 1st floor and is made of boards with a smaller cross-section.

The construction of attic and interfloor ceilings is carried out using the following technology:

Load-bearing beams are installed in the landing slots.
A windproof film is attached to the bottom using a construction stapler.
The subfloor is attached below.
Insulation is lined in the niches between the beams. This can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or ecowool based on split paper.
Boards are laid on top of the insulation and the upper subfloor is screeded.

Ways to strengthen wooden floor beams

Conventionally, beam strengthening technologies can be divided into several types:

restoration;
reconstruction.

Restoration . This category includes methods such as reinforcement with wooden overlays, metal plates, carbon fiber wrapping, and prosthetics. Let's consider each of the options in more detail.

Wooden overlays

Damaged beams (rotten, cracked, potentially weak) can be strengthened with wood overlays. To do this, the beam itself is cleaned with sandpaper or a plane and treated with an antifungal agent. A beam with a smaller cross-section is laid on both sides. The structure is tightened with cords and stitched with through bolts.

Metal plates

The load-bearing capacity of broken logs is restored using metal prostheses using the technology described above. The hardware is applied to the cleaned and processed beam and tightened onto a series of through bolts.

Carbon fiber wrap

Carbon fiber glued to damaged timber.

The technology for restoring floors using carbon fiber is simple and easy. To do this, the damaged area is glued with several layers of carbon material.

Prosthetics

Prosthetics are used to increase the strength and wear resistance of the joints between the timber and the wall. This is where the effects of corrosion and wear most often occur due to the maximum pressure. Preventive measures are taken at the stage of initial installation of the structure. Metal plates are sewn with bolts to the tenon of the timber. The reinforced structure is installed in the socket. An analogue of onlays is a metal prosthesis. It is drilled into the body of the beam and installed in a small hole in the wall.

installation of supports (columns, vertical beams);
installation of additional beams.

Installation of supports

If the load-bearing capacity of the timber is insufficient, it is often strengthened vertical supports. Installation of the pile allows you to redistribute the pressure from the beam to the support. This technology most popular with repair work in attics and under floors.

Additional beams

Increase in meter steps bearing capacity wooden floor beams can be used using additional beams. To do this, the ceiling is completely dismantled and timber is installed in increments of 50 cm.

Video instruction

When erecting a wooden floor on beams, each stage of the work is important: from calculations to commissioning. The videos below clearly demonstrate the technology of design and construction of roofing structures.

1. Calculation of materials for wooden floors.

2. Construction of a basement floor using wooden beams

3. Construction of interfloor ceilings using wooden beams.

4. Construction of the attic floor.

5. Methods of strengthening wooden logs.

6. Installation of the subfloor of the ceilings.