Calculation of a greenhouse made from a 40x20 profile pipe. Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe and polycarbonate with your own hands

Today, greenhouse designs from profile pipe can be found on almost any personal plot. And it’s not surprising, because construction material has features that distinguish it from ordinary metal pipes and wood.

In this article we will look at the advantages of profile greenhouses and tell you how to choose the material. Also contained here step by step guide on the design and construction of an arched greenhouse made of profiled pipe.

Advantages of professional pipes for greenhouses, choice of type, size

Structures are built from this material different types, it all depends on the wishes and needs of the owner of the personal plot.

Advantages of metal profile greenhouses

Considerable strength of a homemade greenhouse made from a profile pipe with relatively low weight. This effect is achieved due to the geometry of the section - square or rectangular. Four ribs provide sufficient rigidity of the structural elements. Comparable in strength to regular round pipe with approximately the same cross-section (for example, 30 mm) it will weigh much more. A greenhouse made of galvanized pipe 25x25 mm is able to withstand high snow/wind loads, regardless of what it is covered with.
During installation, the planes of the elements have a large contact area. The result is high strength of connecting nodes. This is especially important if you plan to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands - the structure turns out to be very durable.
There are different ways to connect greenhouse parts to each other. These are welding, self-tapping screws, screws, crab clamps. They can be used alone or in combination with each other.
The profile pipe is already on sale from anti-corrosion coating. After completing the construction of the greenhouse, only the cut/joint areas of the parts will have to be processed.
Greenhouses made from corrugated pipes can be mounted on a foundation or without it.

Greenhouse with a house made of square profile pipe, covered with polycarbonate

Note:The listed advantages of the profile pipe allow it to be used for the construction of greenhouses of any size and geometry. There are no restrictions, you just need to choose the right type of section and size of the profiles.

How to choose a profile pipe for a greenhouse

Material of manufacture. There are painted and galvanized steel pipes on sale. The former are cheaper, but the coating deteriorates over time, and the exposed steel will begin to rust. Galvanized profile pipes for greenhouses do not face these problems; a structure made from it will last about 20 years. Most quality material must be marked GOST 14918-80.
Section, wall thickness. If it is built small greenhouse, the material here is chosen, as they say, by eye. For example, a small greenhouse made of a 20x40 mm profile pipe, wall thickness - 3 mm. The values here can vary up or down. To select pipes for large-sized buildings, you should look at SNiP, namely sections P-23-81 and 2.01.07-85.

Note:greenhouses with an area of 10 m2 or more cannot be built without preliminary calculations using SNiP. An improperly designed structure can deform or collapse under its own weight or snow/wind loads.

To make a greenhouse from metal pipes with your own hands, you need to choose the right section of profiles

Design and production of a greenhouse from a profile pipe

Careful drawing up of drawings correct calculations– this is the key to trouble-free construction.

Design, drawing up drawings

First of all, we decide for ourselves what type of structure we need: single- or double-slope, curved, arched, with a foundation, without it... Next, we sketch out a rough sketch of what we need. It makes sense to look for a photo suitable designs on the Internet and draw based on them, but with your own edits. On the sketch we mark the approximate dimensions of the structure, the location of the transoms and doors.

When choosing the size and shape of the greenhouse, you should consider the following:

The location of trees and tall perennials in the immediate vicinity of the future building.
Location construction site regarding a residential/country house.
Types of crops that will be grown indoors.
Wind and snow loads in the region. The higher they are, the steeper the greenhouse slopes should be.

The lower part of the greenhouse frame from a profile pipe, drawing - sketch

At the sketching stage, only approximate parameters are set: width, length, height. When drawing up drawings of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe, you cannot make mistakes with the dimensions - everything must be accurate down to the millimeter. During drawing, be sure to set the dimensions of each part, even if they are duplicated. You can see how this is done in the following drawing.

Please note:when the drawing is ready, we calculate the quantity Supplies– we make estimates for purchases. Usually the data is displayed on the same sheet, at the top or bottom right.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, drawing with dimensions

There should be so many projections of the drawings that the builder understands exactly which part goes where. In this case, element connection nodes must be drawn separately. We do this with the greenhouse frame made of profile pipe, all transoms and doors.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing of the end part

Foundation installation

The foundation for a greenhouse, unless it is a thermos, is made of a strip, with or without reinforcement, depending on the dimensions of the building. It should be closed, without breaks around the perimeter. Trench parameters:

Height – 40 cm.
Width – 40 cm.

We make a setting formwork along the edge, it should protrude 20 cm from the ground. We fill the bottom of the trench with sand (5 cm), tamp it, then gravel - 10 cm. Next, we lay a pre-tied armored belt. Fill everything with sand-concrete mixture (3/1). We remove the formwork in 4 days, and then we begin further construction. The exception is massive greenhouses with an area of 15 m2 or more. Here you will have to wait for the foundation to gain full strength - 28 days.

Diagram of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe; it’s easy to install embedded parts under the piping with your own hands

Note:Before pouring concrete in the foundation trench, we position and fix the embedded parts, onto which the greenhouse piping from the profile pipe will subsequently be attached.

How to assemble a frame from a profile pipe with your own hands

First of all, we prepare the parts from which the greenhouse will be assembled. We cut the profile pipe and lay it out near the construction site so that everything is at hand. It is necessary to bend the arcs for the upper part. To do this, you will have to purchase or assemble a pipe bender yourself.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse, the video explains self-assembly pipe bending machine and work on it

We begin construction with the installation of the harness. It is attached to the mortgages installed when pouring the foundation. We screw the profile pipe to the mortgages using screws. When tightening fasteners, be guided by the building level - the strapping should not have distortions along the plane. We scald the joints of the elements.

Next is the installation of the arches. If it is planned to strengthen their upper part, then we do it on the ground, on a flat area, also on construction level. We work with welding, screws or crab clamps. The arches are attached to the frame using welding or steel corners with self-tapping screws. After the entire length of the greenhouse has been exposed, we assemble the end part.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes: the arches are placed after installing the reinforcement of the upper part

Installation of polycarbonate

We begin to install the polycarbonate from the ends. We screw the rectangular sheet into place, and then cut it to the shape of the frame - this is best done electric jigsaw. Then we cover the remaining surfaces of the greenhouse with metal profiles. Under no circumstances should we overlap the covering material. The sheets should fit tightly together. For tightness, a split profile is installed in the joints.

Note:To attach polycarbonate to greenhouses made of profile pipes, we use special thermal washers. They provide a tight connection between the covering material and the frame. During the process, we make sure that the fasteners enter the plastic strictly vertically.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands: a structure covered with polycarbonate

All summer residents dream of having a reliable greenhouse in their garden that would last for many years. Therefore I would like to suggest a worthy alternative factory greenhouses, which will have a much better frame.

After all, you must agree that at the expense of it you remove it from the beds good harvest. It also perfectly protects your plants from adverse factors. environment, of which there are a lot. So, it's starting soon summer season and it will be necessary to plant seedlings. But, in order to do this, many people wonder: what material is better for a greenhouse and how to make one with your own hands? Yes, of course you can find a lot on the Internet different ways. But I still think the best option, if you want to make it yourself, is a profile pipe and polycarbonate.

Today, cellular polycarbonate is considered the most popular. He has an excellent throughput sunlight, also amazingly retains heat and is very light for its size. And most importantly, the price is not very expensive, like other materials with the same results.

There are different types greenhouses (double slope, single slope). In this chapter I want to tell you how to make an arched type of greenhouse. Therefore, whoever of you has an idea about manufacturing will easily assemble it.

1. First you need to decide on a place. It is placed in such a way that one long side faces south.

2. We begin to bend the arcs, having previously outlined a meter from each edge of the profile. This is necessary in order to begin bending the pipe precisely from this line using a pipe bending tool. But do not forget to cut 10 cm from it for a small allowance and adjustment of the polycarbonate. We need 7 pieces of them for a 6 meter greenhouse, and 5 pieces for a 4 meter greenhouse.

By the way, in order to save money, I use 20x20 mm metal for the structure. You can use such sections for jumpers, and bend 40x20 for the greenhouse.

3. Now we set the plane where we will weld the end parts. It must be level so that it does not turn out to be a screw.

4. We take two 6-meter profiles and cut them into 2 parts so that they are 3 meters long and weld them to two end arcs from the bottom. And we cook the remaining two sticks as racks for the bottom and top of a curved arch, but from the middle of the base you need to mark 40 cm in different directions. To make it clearer, I drew an approximate drawing of the front end of the greenhouse.

5. The next step is to cut out and cook the jumpers.

Don't forget to clean the seams so you don't damage the polycarbonate when screwing it on.

6. All that remains is to weld the door and the front end will be ready. We measure our opening, in in this case We have it 80 x 1.85 and make it 1 cm smaller. That is, 79 x 1.84 cm, we cut off first 3 short and then two long sticks from the profile.

The seams need to be tack welded so that the door does not move too much during welding. And also try to use a square to align the posts and lintels.

After setting and tacking the loop, you can look at the opening.

8. Your front part is ready, but to prevent the door from turning the other way, you need to weld gussets at the corners at the top and bottom.

9. We do the back part of the end in the same way, placing it on the front part and pressing them together with clamps.

The most important thing is not to confuse the sides of the arcs that you bent, otherwise after using the pipe bending tool, they may be different. It is best to outline and make all the arches on one side.

10. You can also make it with a window instead of a door, but this is at your discretion.

11. When everything is prepared and done, we move on to the place where we will install the greenhouse. We make markings so that the diagonals coincide and drive in corners in the corners, approximately 2.5–3 meters, and do not forget to align them with a level or laser level. We weld the front and back parts of the greenhouse to the corners, and then weld the 5.96 profile along the entire length to it. Then the length of the greenhouse will be exactly 6 meters.

The corner should be inside the greenhouse so that it does not interfere with the polycarbonate later.

12. Now, at the bottom, where the metal is welded, we stretch the lace along the entire length and drive in the reinforcement in the place where we will install the arcs. Using the same action, we drive in where the door posts are.

14. Accordingly, so that the end threads do not bend during tensioning and are level, we also temporarily support them until we weld all the jumpers.

15. We weld the jumpers on both sides, moving the arcs to the welded jumpers, then they will all be level.

16. This is the design you should get.

By the way, it is better to install arches and lintels one at a time. If you install everything at once, they will bend and interfere with the tension of the lace.

17. Well, the last step is to cover it with polycarbonate. First, cut the sheet in half and cover the ends, cutting off the excess with a knife.

18. Then spread the sheets along the edges and close the middle at the end.

This is how a homemade greenhouse was made.

Manufacturing a gable greenhouse according to the drawing

This version of the greenhouse is a little more complicated, and it will take more profile pipe. This design allows you to grow more tall plants.

By the way, for the walls and roof of the greenhouse, it is better to buy a 40x20 profile, and for lintels you can use 20x20.

1. The first thing you need to start doing is with an approximate drawing.

Before welding the posts to the 6 m profile, do not forget to measure the diagonal.

3. In the same way we make the end walls with doors and windows. In this case, the gap between the racks and the doors should be 1 cm.

4. We install the structure on leveled (with a level) bricks and weld all the walls together.

6. Cook the roof. If desired, you can also weld a couple of windows in it for better ventilation.

By the way, it is better to make jumpers every 50 cm so that the carbonate lasts longer and does not burst under the influence of snow precipitation.

7. And gradually install it on the walls of the greenhouse.

8. We sew up our structure with polycarbonate. Just be sure to clean and paint the greenhouse pipes. We cover all ends with adhesive tape to seal.

As you can see, there is no difficulty in manufacturing. It turns out to be more expensive than a commercial one, but more reliable.

Video of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

In this video I suggest you see how to do it homemade greenhouse? What is its advantage and correct location on the ground, taking into account light watering.

As you can see, everything is easy and simple. And, as you understand, the planting season is coming soon and best option greenhouses, than from a profile pipe and polycarbonate you will not find.

How to make an arched greenhouse yourself?

I would like to suggest one more way to make an arched greenhouse, but it is perhaps the most difficult to make. The price is also not cheap. In this design you can plant many plants for sale.

1. First, we drill and fill 50x25 posts 1 m deep around the perimeter. We do this with the help of laces stretched at the corners. We weld overlay plates onto them. Use a level to level it out to the same height.

Since the polycarbonate sheet is 2.10 wide, we fill the columns at the same distance. On the end walls you can fill it randomly, since the structure there is different because of the doors.

2. On top of the overhead, also around the perimeter, we lay 40x20 pipes and weld them to them. Just don’t forget to check the diagonal of the greenhouse base.

3. Next, we prepare arches from a 6-meter profile with rigidity from lintels and a base. To save money, it is possible to make the arcs in such a way that the polycarbonate joints are subsequently attached to the metal 40x60, and the middle 20x20.

4. We install vertical posts on the base of the greenhouse, about 2 meters high with a distance of 700 mm between them. We weld the manufactured arch onto them.

5. For rigidity of the structure, we weld jumpers. But we do this not only along the entire length vertical racks, but also along all our farms. Connecting them together.

6. We also weld the jumpers between the corners of the base of the arch and the pillar.

7. To prevent the structure from being shaky, you need to weld braces in the corners and pour a foundation around the entire perimeter. Also, for reliability, pillars with mortgages can be poured in the middle of the building.

8. Now we cook and install doors on one side of the end, and windows for ventilation on the other. We paint the entire structure in any color you like.

9. Finally we came to polycarbonate. We start fastening from the roof. We connect the sheets together with a joining profile. To make it easier to tighten them, we use two boards on which you can put a stepladder and calmly walk on it.

10. After the arches, we sew up the ends and sides of the greenhouse.

11. Well, in conclusion, I would like to provide a drawing of this miracle greenhouse.

I hope everything is clear with greenhouses, choose any one and build it. Have a good harvest.

Rest
After checking everything carefully, weld all the seams and corners tightly.
Weld two doors. The frame is made from a corner, without any reinforcements or crossbars! Just a frame...and don't be alarmed that it looks flimsy and unreliable. You hang them on hinges in the opening. Weld the hinges and closures (latches or others of your choice) IMPORTANT! Locking devices must not interfere with the subsequent installation of glass! If you are not sure, then it is better to leave it for later, after glazing. (although unwinding the weld again will be a waste later)
Inside, you can immediately weld loops or rings to which it is so convenient to tie ropes (after all, you will have excellent tomato bushes or large vines of cucumbers)
If you are particularly enthusiastic, you can install vents (you can figure it out for yourself).
At the bottom, in the corners and along the perimeter, weld pieces of the profile to fasten what you will use to sew up the bottom ( flat slate For example). You can make a small “ditch” around it to bury the slate, ten centimeters is enough.
Paint with good paint, like three in one (primer, converter and paint), if you have the money, you can probably use Hammerite! Hand out the brushes to the “helpers” and children and relax. You deserve it!
Hem the bottom with slate, screwing it onto the legs with self-tapping screws. (Here the posts driven in at the first stage should not interfere)
Install a fence inside so that the beds do not fall under your feet, it can also be made of slate. (pieces of brand driven into the ground are very convenient)
Bring in land. The one under the greenhouse is so trampled by you that nothing will grow on it. Manure, humus, peat, whatever you want! (It is more convenient to do earthworks before glazing, but it can be done later.)
The floors can be paved with brick, for example, it’s very beautiful, I call it “Red Square”
(By the way, leave the passage wider, about a meter, believe me, you will regret it later if you are greedy and leave the beds wider! Well, sort of effective area and all that, overgrown cucumbers will not allow passage!)
Glazing
Well, here's the last one!
Glass. Standard size glass on the construction market is 130 by 80. (It can’t be! Do you already understand?) The side windows will be standard, not cut. The whole piece and another piece of about 60 cm will be placed on the roof (it’s not difficult to cut it off. Take into account the slight overlap. That is, you put a whole piece of glass on the bottom, and another piece will be overlapped on top of it. The most difficult thing is the gables. Cutting at an angle can be difficult, especially if the glass overheated, poor quality. Well, two glasses in the door (Remember about cutting a strip of one cm? Try it.)
No “clamps” of glazing beads or putty! Buy a box silicone sealant for outdoor use, transparent, moisture resistant. (costs about a hundred rubles per tube). Tubes (tubes) for the gun (330 ml in my opinion) and the gun itself (Syringe. Costs sixty to eighty rubles). Apply sealant to the iron and install the glass (it is convenient to use suction cups for glass, sold at construction markets). Insert a gasket underneath the glass...so that the glass does not rest on the iron (it may crack)...small twigs, twigs or wood chips are very convenient; when the sealant dries, they can be easily removed. To prevent the glass from falling (the sealant takes a long time to dry), support it from the outside...for example, with a piece of board. Placing glass on the roof is more difficult, but not too much (of course, if you have the dimensions correct and the glass does not fall on your head). We support it with a board (in my photo above you can see how..)
When everything is dry, we go through with sealant and coat all the cracks.
After drying, your structure will acquire enviable strength and rigidity. Even the doors. Call your neighbor, who said that everything is very flimsy and he would make it from a fifty-fifty corner and always with crossbars for reliability.
For those who still doubt it, I’ll say that tearing the glass off the sealant (for example, to replace it) is very difficult!
It turned out BEAUTIFUL, RELIABLE and not very expensive, considering that this is a one-time project for many years!
The crown of labor is above all praise (c)
When your wife plants early radishes, dill and lettuce under a film or cover and marks out where and what to plant, you will understand that you need to build another greenhouse! But that’s already next year. And believe me, it will turn out even better!
My greenhouses are named “old”, “new” and “supernova”.
Then I'll post pictures with all sorts of useful little things. (if you want)
Sorry for the many bugs. I hope I didn't bore you and was useful.
I'm tired.

Avid summer residents often strive to install a reliable greenhouse or hotbed on their site so that they can grow seedlings or get a harvest much earlier. In this article we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from corrugated pipe with your own hands so that it turns out reliable and durable.

Note that the choice in favor of steel profiled pipes is dictated primarily by their resistance to deformation and destruction, as well as their ability to withstand significant loads. Although the installation of such products itself requires some effort.

The initial stage of creating a greenhouse from profile pipes - drawing and selection of material

Decide on exact quantity necessary materials can be done as accurately as possible if you first estimate the dimensions of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe in the drawings, and also take into account the parameters of the manufactured products themselves.

Profiles with a cross section of 40×20 mm or 40×40 mm are optimal for creating a supporting structure. They are quite durable and have a wall thickness of 2 mm or more. At the same time, for horizontal screeds, you can use products with thinner walls, about 1-1.5 mm - this will be enough.

The design of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe may include several types of configurations:

a greenhouse attached to the main house, the roof of which has an asymmetrical oval or pitched shape;
a separate building with a gable roof;
greenhouse with an arched configuration.

When calculating the number of pipes to be purchased, it is worth taking into account the measured length of pipe products available for sale - it is 6.05 meters.

Considering this value, you can make drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe with dimensions of 3, 4, 6 or 12 meters in length, as well as 2, 3, 4 or 6 meters in width. The optimal dimensions of a greenhouse in which two parallel beds are placed will be within the range of 3 × 3-6 meters, and if there are three beds, then 4-6 × 3-12 meters. However, most often the drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe is drawn up based on dimensions of 3x6 meters - this is the most convenient ratio.

But as for the height of the building, it is necessary to take into account the individual parameters of the owner. As a rule, the ceiling should be located 30-40 cm higher than a person’s height. That is, the height of the greenhouse can vary between 1.9-2.5 meters.

Another important factor in calculating the height of the greenhouse is finishing material for plating. In the case of ordinary film, this is not of fundamental importance, but if you purchase polycarbonate, it is better if its size is sufficient to cover the height without trimming or extensions.

Standard sheet length cellular polycarbonate is 6 m, and if you use the circumference formula (L=π×D), you can calculate whether it is enough to cover an arched greenhouse.

So, for example, let’s take the planned height of the building to be 2 meters and substitute it into the formula:

L=3.14×4=12.56 meters.

Then half the length will be 12.56/2 = 6.28 meters - this is not enough to completely cover the surface of the greenhouse, and an additional segment of 28 cm will be required. Therefore, it is better to provide for the height of the greenhouse in the drawing of an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe within 1. 9 meters.

Preliminary preparation for work

Before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, you should pay attention to some additional conditions of your site. In particular, soil type may matter. It is preferable to install the greenhouse on dry soil, where it does not accumulate excess moisture, which can influence bearing structures. It is optimal to install a greenhouse on sandy soils, as opposed to clay soils that are prone to waterlogging.

The location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points also matters. So, it is best that the long side faces south, so that as much as possible penetrates into the greenhouse. sun rays, which will not be reflected from polycarbonate sheets.

To prevent heat from leaving the greenhouse too quickly and to make it convenient to move around in it, the entrance door is usually located at the end. According to standards, the door width should be no narrower than 70-80 cm, but its height directly depends on the size of the greenhouse itself.

If you are planning to build a more or less permanent greenhouse from corrugated pipe, then you can additionally build a small corridor or vestibule in it. You can store tools and other small items in it. In addition, such a space will allow you to retain heat when opening the door to the greenhouse itself.

The frame for constructing a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands must be placed on a strip or columnar foundation, the type of which will depend on the type of soil. In any case, you need to remove debris from the area under the foundation and remove upper layer soil.

Sequence of work when constructing a greenhouse from a profile

In general, the entire process of constructing a greenhouse from profile pipes includes four main stages:

Marking.
Pouring the foundation.
Assembling the frame structure.
Polycarbonate sheathing.

First, they mark out a place for the future greenhouse from a profile pipe and drive wooden pegs around its perimeter, onto which a rope is pulled.

Next, they begin to build the foundation. Frame construction made from a profile pipe, which will be transferred to the supports, is quite strong and not prone to deformation. Therefore, it is often enough for a greenhouse columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes.

The columnar foundation is poured as follows:

holes are drilled in the ground at a certain distance from each other, with a diameter exceeding the size of the pipes;
Asbestos pipes themselves are immersed in the resulting pits;
the gaps between the pipes and the soil are filled with filler and compacted thoroughly;
poured inside the pipe cement mortar, making sure that there are no voids in it;

in the upper part of the poured pipe, a metal plate or piece of reinforcement is immersed in concrete, which will serve as a coupling for the foundation with the frame structure.

Assembling the body from profile pipes begins from the end sections of the structure. The pipe sections are connected to each other by welding, using tees, angles, and also using couplings. The welds are much stronger and the structure is more stable. However, if you want to make the frame collapsible, then it is better to use couplings.

At the last stage, they begin to cover the body with polycarbonate sheets. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that moisture does not penetrate into the cells of the material.

Please note that when attaching polycarbonate, its cells should be located at an angle or vertically. A horizontal position will not allow moisture to drain and will deteriorate the quality of the material.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with a house, with a full gable roof, then in it, in addition to front door, you need to cut through the windows. Well, small arched greenhouses can only get by with a door.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse using the “cold” method

Arched greenhouses made from profile pipes for summer cottages are the most stable and, at the same time, practical designs. Thanks to their streamlined shape, arch-shaped greenhouses are able to withstand strong gusts of wind, and precipitation does not accumulate on them. winter period. However, to create such a structure, you must first bend the pipes (read: ""). In this case, there may be two options - turn to specialists for professional help or do the work yourself using a pipe bender. Another Alternative option– do the bending yourself using improvised means. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, you will need a radius template.

There can be two methods of cold bending of profile pipes - with or without the use of filler. If the body is to be assembled from profiles with a thickness of up to 10 mm, then pipe bending can be done without filler. But for bending corrugated pipes with thicker walls, it is better to pour rosin or sand into them.

As an option, there is a bending method using a thick spring, the cross-section of which will allow it to be pushed into the pipe cavity. The spring properties of such a device will make it possible to bend the pipes quite well without changing the cross-section of the profile at the bend.

Thus, you can bend profile pipes in a “cold” way in two ways:

use available tools and mechanisms - bending plates and similar tools;
use a portable or manual factory pipe bender.

A fairly primitive, but nevertheless effective device for cold bending of profiles are bending plates with holes. Rods are placed in these recesses, which will serve as a stop when bending. The pipe is placed between two rods, which are installed in the slab at a distance from the deformation radius. Then they begin to bend the profile, moving from the center of the workpiece to its edges.

It is worth noting that this manual method of cold pipe deformation is quite labor-intensive, and the result will depend on the effort expended on bending.

Method of bending profile pipes with preheating

The hot bending technique looks like this:

At the first stage, wooden plugs for the pyramid-shaped pipe are made. The length of such a workpiece should be 10 times greater than the width of its base, and the area of the wide part should be at least twice as large as the pipe lumen.
When the workpiece fits the size of the pipe, small grooves are made in it on four sides, through which gases formed when the pipe is heated will escape. The second plug does not need to be processed.
Next, the treated section of the pipe is pre-fired.
Any fine filler must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling into the pipe. This way you will get rid of large particles that can be imprinted on the surface of the pipe when heated. After this, very fine sand particles are removed using a 0.7 mm sieve so that they do not sinter when heated inside the pipe.
The prepared sand is calcined at 150 ℃.
A blind plug without grooves is installed on one side of the pipe. On the other side, a funnel is placed in the corrugated pipe, through which calcined sand is poured inside in small portions.
By periodically tapping the walls, you can make sure that the sand is well compacted - the sound will be dull. As soon as the pipe is completely filled with sand, insert a second plug with gutters.
The location of the future pipe bend is marked with chalk. After this, the pipe section must be securely secured in a vice, placing it on the template. Please note that products with welded seams must be bent so that the connection point is located on the side. But bend along weld not worth it.
According to the markings, they begin to heat the metal until it turns red. When the material becomes soft enough, it is given the required shape in one smooth and precise movement.

When the workpiece has cooled, the bend is compared with the template. If the work is done perfectly, you can pull out the plugs and pour sand out of the profile.

It is advisable that all work hot bending, were carried out in one step. Each subsequent heating will cause the metal to lose its strength.

In conclusion, we note that, by and large, even novice builders can cope with the construction of a greenhouse for a summer residence from profile pipes. Regardless of its design, all main work will be carried out according to general principle. The only differences may be the landscape features and the preferences of the owners, which will need to be taken into account during construction.

A profile pipe as a material for making a greenhouse is The best decision, since the result is a structure that is highly reliable and durable compared to other similar shelters.

If you choose wood as a greenhouse material, this will lead to some unpleasant moments. For example, wood is susceptible to rotting, and it also becomes deformed when there is a lack or excess of moisture.

Most often, when assembling greenhouses from a profile pipe, preference is given to products that have a rectangular cross-section. This design is much easier to assemble, which also applies to the process of attaching polycarbonate. At the same time, the profile pipe does not exclude the use polyethylene film when installing a greenhouse. The only thing is that it is not resistant to sunlight, wind and frost, so it will have to be changed every year.

Greenhouses with a pipe frame are distinguished by their variability of design:

Rectangular, characterized by the presence of a gable roof. Appearance of such greenhouses corresponds to the shape of a conventional country house. Their dignity is great inner space, which makes it possible to grow tall plants anywhere in the greenhouse, and not just in its center.
Rectangular, defined as tunnel. Have flat roof, providing this, on the one hand, with savings on profile pipes, which are quite expensive, and on the other, determining the occurrence of a number of problems. For example, a horizontal roof creates conditions where snow does not have the opportunity to roll off it. As a result, the heat of the greenhouse leads to snow melting, ice is formed and there is a risk of damage to the polycarbonate due to increased pressure.
Arched, which are the most optimal in terms of consumption of building materials. At the same time, the design features require the presence of special pipe benders, with the help of which the profile pipe is given an arc shape.

The most widely used materials for assembling greenhouses are those with a cross section of 20 by 20 mm and 20 by 40 mm. The latter in this case have a fair margin of safety, but are distinguished by greater mass and more at a high price.

In this regard, it is unreasonable to assemble a greenhouse only from pipes bigger size. It is much more effective to use them only for installation as wall supports and installation of rafters. All other elements of the greenhouse can be assembled from a 20 by 20 mm pipe.

Structural elements

Greenhouse structures differ from each other in shape, materials and technologies used. Greenhouses that have one or two slopes, a tent shape or an arch are most popular. From a design point of view, greenhouse structures can be constructed in stationary form, when there is no possibility of their dismantling, and in the so-called mobile, allowing disassembly of the greenhouse for the purpose of storing it in any room in winter.

Concerning structural elements, then their set looks like this:

Foundation- part of the structure that serves as its base, which is necessary to provide stability by distributing the resulting loads. Suitable for making foundations various materials, for example wood or brick. The best option erection of a foundation for a greenhouse - construction strip foundation in the form of a single monolith, which must be embedded to a depth of at least 80 cm, but with the observance that the freezing point of the soil will be above this mark.
Frame- part of the structure, defined as a load-bearing part, the assembly of which is carried out using wooden elements and made of PVC or steel. The strength of the frame is the stability of the entire structure. Depending on the chosen material, the pros and cons of this part of the structure manifest themselves. The choice of wood for making the frame significantly reduces the complexity of installation, but is due to the disadvantage of a short service life. Even treating wood with water-repellent compounds does little to improve the durability of the frame compared to a similar structure made of steel. At the same time, the steel frame, although different for a long period operation and the ability to withstand heavy loads, but it is susceptible to corrosion.
PVC frame– strength, flexibility, tightness and safety. This material has a higher price compared to those already mentioned. It is very reliable, which is ensured by stiffening ribs in the form of arches, which are installed every 2 meters. The result is a streamlined shape that eliminates lag atmospheric precipitation on a surface. Assembling a frame from a profile pipe is a low-labor activity that does not require the use of special equipment.
Profile pipe- a durable structural element that provides additional convenience, which is manifested in the fact that with its inside you can attach lighting, irrigation system, etc.
Coating- defence from negative impact environment, the production materials of which are usually glass, polycarbonate and film. Fastening is carried out on the frame of the greenhouse. The optimal coating is polycarbonate, which is a reliable barrier to cold air, but does not prevent the passage of sunlight. The coating of this material gives the greenhouse an attractive appearance and ensures durability of use at a relatively low cost for its purchase.
Accessories- everything that is part of the fastening system. Its selection depends on the design of the greenhouse and the covering material. If you plan to use polycarbonate, then you will need thermal washers, connecting profiles and self-tapping screws necessary for attaching this material to the metal. A special profile is used to fasten polycarbonate sheets. And if it is aluminum, then this is an ideal option, but quite expensive. It is equipped with rubber seals that provide the required level of waterproofing.

Instructions for assembling a greenhouse

The first stage of installation involves preparing the foundation. For this you can use brick, concrete or other similar materials. Due to the fact that the structure being installed is lightweight, the sufficient depth for pouring the foundation is from 20 to 30 cm. To make it convenient to attach the frame in the future, at the stage of preparing the foundation, you need to lay down the parts for such fasteners.

The greenhouse assembly steps are as follows:

Profiles for vertical posts are cut.
The racks are welded in accordance with the drawing, maintaining the verticality of their location.
The upper rim is fixed, which is a pipe that runs along the tops of the installed racks.
Installation parts installed between the risers are being prepared.
They are then connected by installing crossbars.
Beams are welded onto the roof and secured using crossbars.
The door is assembled and hung.

The given option for installing a greenhouse is not the only acceptable one, since there are many other solutions. For example, this process can be approached from the perspective of separately assembling large parts of the greenhouse, which are then installed in place. To do this, you need to collect entire sections from 2 to 3 meters in size on the ground.

Attention! Assembling greenhouse parts on the ground involves choosing the maximum flat surface to eliminate the possibility of misalignment. In this case, it is advisable to periodically apply the assembled section to the future installation site, which is necessary to maintain dimensional accuracy.

The installation of the slopes can be approached in the same way, that is, they are assembled separately and secured together during the actual installation. The choice of a specific installation method largely depends on how many people are involved in assembling the greenhouse. It is advisable to weld the prepared parts of the windows and doors immediately.

Advice! To prepare the pentagonal piece that is the roof post structure, you can take a long pipe and make a few cuts on one side and then bend it accordingly.

Arched greenhouse

To assemble an arched greenhouse, you need a device such as a pipe bender, which makes it possible to bend the metal at the desired angle. The presence of this device is desirable, but not mandatory, since there are a sufficient number of ways to do without this type of equipment, for example:

take the blank from the pipe;
make shallow cuts on one side;
bend the profile to the required angle.

Advice! To make bending the pipe easier and to obtain a smoother bend, make cuts more often.

A method is also available that involves calcining the workpiece with sand. This technique is considered folk, but effective. Calcined sand is placed inside the workpiece, on both sides of which plugs are installed. After this, the pipe bends relatively easily due solely to the strength of the hands, that is, in this case, no additional devices are provided.

The prepared arches are fastened in compliance with next order actions:

The frontal arch is fixed to the base strictly vertically.
Two posts are installed on the pediment, forming a frame for the door.
The next arch is also mounted.
The sides of the arches are fastened with appropriate parts.
Arcs are installed.
A pipe is mounted in the upper part, which is welded to each arc.
To give greater stability assembled structure additional fasteners are installed.

Attention! It is optimal when the assembly of an arched greenhouse begins from both sides, as this ensures greater stability of the structure.

Polycarbonate fasteners

This will be the last step. To reduce the amount of excess of this material, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the workpieces correspond as closely as possible to what was drawn on the diagram. When installing polycarbonate, you need to consider the following points:

the sheets should be laid so that the side on which the film is applied faces upward, since only this position provides protection from ultraviolet radiation;
in order to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting inside the greenhouse, the sheets should be fastened using self-tapping screws equipped with a rubberized cap;
the sheets are joined using metal plates of small thickness;
sheet joints require sealing using sealant or tape;
After installing the polycarbonate, you need to remove the film.

Strengthening the frame from a profile pipe

Today the market offers square profile pipes with a polymer applied to the surface. This powder coating provides additional protection, but the cost of the finished product increases by about 20%. Meanwhile, no such coating is capable of giving the greenhouse the additional strength required in situations where heavy loads arise, for example, as a result of snowfall.

To strengthen the frame of the greenhouse, supports are required to be installed under the ridge and side walls. Installation of such elements is carried out both inside and outside the greenhouse. If the covering material is not dismantled during cold weather, then wooden supports can be used to prevent destruction of the greenhouse structure.

Price

A greenhouse based on a profile pipe with a height of 2.1 m and a width of 3 m is determined by a fairly wide price range, which depends on the length of the frame: