The correct drawing of a bathhouse made of timber. Building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands

In this article we will look at the construction of a bathhouse from timber. Why this particular material? Because over many centuries the tree has perfectly proven its primacy in this matter. And timber is the most convenient in construction, but let's take a closer look at its advantages:

Advantages of the material

Popularity. Thanks to this quality, it is easy and simple to find and most importantly choose suitable project. The presence of many diagrams and drawings will greatly simplify doing the work yourself.

Light weight. This means that a powerful foundation is not required, which makes it possible to save significantly.
Simplicity installation work . This building material is easy to assemble. And unlike logs, it can be collected immediately on the base, and not separately on a prepared site with subsequent transportation.
High heat-saving qualities. Very important point in the functioning of the steam room, which must perfectly maintain high temperature. Otherwise, there will be very high costs for fuel materials.

Minimum shrinkage. That is, there will be practically no deformation changes under its own pressure.
Affordable price. Although wood itself is expensive, there is a very large difference in prices between products that differ in the level of processing and between different tree species. So you can always choose something to suit your budget.
Ecological cleanliness. The healing effect of the steam room will be even more significant if you are surrounded by completely natural materials.

Thanks to the combination of all the qualities listed above, the construction of bathhouses from timber is very popular among owners of their own suburban areas.

Construction work

The construction of a bathhouse from timber does not begin with earthworks, and from sorting rooms. Because getting low-quality material into a structure can lead to the most undesirable consequences ().

Sorting

To protect yourself from unpleasant surprises in the future, you should put aside products with the following signs:

Cracks of considerable depth. Such timber may soon crack completely.

Presence of fungus, signs of rot and insect pests. The process that has begun will bring its work to an end.

Deformations along the longitudinal axis. The timber must be level and have a smooth surface. Otherwise, cracks will form in the masonry, which is absolutely unacceptable.

Advice: burn products damaged by fungus or insects immediately. Otherwise, there will be a risk of damage to the rest of the material. Deformed samples can still be used in the base after careful processing.

Waterproofing

The instructions for installing logs on concrete require high-quality waterproofing to protect the wood from moisture.

To do this:

Apply melted bitumen using a brush or roller to the cement surface.

After the bitumen has hardened, cover the top with a layer of roofing material.

Preparing timber

The most common and simple technology The construction of a bathhouse from timber consists of joining products using the “paw-on” method, that is, without the part coming out from the back side.

To carry out the work successfully, it is necessary to create templates and use them to make the appropriate cuts on all wooden products.

Pay special attention to the details adjacent to the base. They should be treated with an antiseptic; to save money, you can use machine oil.

Construction of a log house

Building a bathhouse from timber is a responsible undertaking, especially the construction of a log house, and proceeds as follows:

We place wooden slats on the surface of the foundation. This will prevent the timber from joining the base and create the necessary ventilation holes. This will significantly extend the service life of the material, protecting it from the spread of mold and rotting processes.
We mount the first crown:

We install the timber on the slats.
We carefully check its horizontalness. If there are the slightest deviations, we correct them. Since the evenness and reliability of the rest of the structure depend on this element.
We connect the foundation beams together.
We fill the space between the wood and the cement with polyurethane foam.

Advice: you should not fix the lower crown with fasteners. For its stability, the weight of the entire building will be enough.

We create a layer of insulation on top of the crown.

The following materials are traditionally suitable for this:

Tow.

Jute.

In this case, tow and moss should be laid with an outlet of 10 cm on the sides in order to subsequently compact the material tightly into the cracks between the beams. The jute is spread flush with the width of the product and is nailed with staples from a construction stapler or steel nails.

Next, we install beams with a section of 15 by 15 cm, similar to the first ones. We fix them using dowels or iron pins through pre-prepared unloading holes. At the same time, the more accurate the correspondence between the diameters of the holes and the diameters of the pins, the stronger the structure will be.
We do not fasten the last upper crown. The construction of timber baths involves the possibility of removing them to install ceiling beams.

Arrangement of door and window openings

There are two ways to install window frames and door frames:

After the construction of the log house.

IN in this case you provide the holes during the laying of the timber, and then level the openings with a chainsaw. This construction technology is simpler and safer.

During the construction of a log house.

This is a more labor-intensive and dangerous activity. The fact is that after the construction of the structure it will definitely shrink. And if there are built-in window frames the walls may lead.

Which will lead to the need for repairs immediately after completion of construction work and will significantly increase the final cost of building a bathhouse made of timber.

Last stage

After erecting the entire structure, we lay forty-millimeter boards on top of the beams and cover them with roofing felt. The frame must remain in this state for at least six months in order to give the necessary shrinkage and acquire its final shape. After this, floor installation and roofing work are carried out.

If you are using quality or tow, then immediately after shrinking you should caulk all the walls. The process consists of using a caulk to firmly drive the protruding edges of the insulating material into the cracks between the bars.

When using jute, this process is not necessary. Since it creates a fairly dense layer even with simple application.

Conclusion

This is facilitated by its excellent heat retention properties, environmental friendliness, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

To make the work easier and the building more reliable, it is recommended to use timber. Smooth smooth products correct forms easy to install. It is also easy to calculate how much it costs to build a bathhouse from timber in advance when purchasing the material.

The video in this article will provide additional material for your attention. The right approach to the construction process will provide you with a high-quality bathhouse!

Most people during construction give preference to natural materials, namely wood. Timber has always been in great demand among bathhouse connoisseurs; it is safe for health, practical to assemble and elegant. This article will help you understand the features of constructing a building from profiled timber with your own hands, and will also tell you about some options for constructing this structure.

How to choose the right timber

Before purchasing wood for construction, you need to know certain features that you should pay attention to before purchasing the material.

You need to carefully inspect the tree. There should be no cracks on it; the timber can quickly deteriorate.
There is no need to purchase material with dark spots. Stains often indicate the process of decay.
You should refuse logs with traces of bark beetles or the presence of wormholes.
The low cost of the material may indicate its low quality.

High-quality material will allow you to build a beautiful structure and do it in short term. When building, everything must be done step by step, without rushing, so that the result meets all expectations.

How to prepare timber yourself

Wood is a natural and expensive material; the price in Russia for timber measuring 150/150/6000 ranges from 7,000 to 9,000 rubles. You can prepare a log house yourself, mainly in winter.

After cutting, the tree should rest for some time, one month is enough. After which you need to carefully inspect the trunks and select high-quality ones, without black spots (rot), or traces of the bark beetle.

Then we start cleaning the beams. The first step is to remove the bark, but not all of it. Leave about 15 cm of bark on both sides, this is necessary to prevent cracking. The workpieces must be stacked on a hill so that the logs do not come into contact with the ground, at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other.

Before choosing a material, you need to pay attention to both deciduous trees and conifers. It is better to lay logs from deciduous trees on the lower rows when building a bathhouse, and coniferous ones above - they have better thermal insulation.

A detailed report on the construction of a log bathhouse with your own hands. It's simple.

How to draw up a project for a future bathhouse

The technology for building a bathhouse should begin with drawing up a project. The project will allow you to calculate down to the smallest detail the characteristic nuances of a given room.

Bathhouse project example

An accurate plan allows you to save money; thanks to the documentation, the owner will be able to accurately calculate the amount of all materials that he may need for construction.

The title photo shows a small typical bathhouse made of timber with an area of 6*4 sq. meters (turnkey price - 520 thousand rubles, log house - 300 thousand rubles)

When drawing up a project, consider the main nuances:

The number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time must be at least 4 m 2 per person;
The location of the structure plays an important role; if there is a lake or river nearby, then it is better to design a bathhouse near a reservoir;
What materials, in addition to the timber itself, will you use for construction. They should be harmless (natural) to the body: stones for the steam room, moss, hemp for caulking logs.

Construction of the foundation

The foundation must have good resistance to various weather conditions (frost, snow, rain) and be durable. You can build the foundation on your own, without the help of professional builders.

The first step is to decide on the foundation material, the choice of which takes into account:

Level groundwater on the site;
Type of soil;
If possible, it is necessary to calculate as accurately as possible the load that will affect the foundation. This includes the weight of the building itself, equipment inside the structure, total weight people who may be in the steam room at the same time;
It is important to determine the depth of soil freezing in winter time year.

When building a bathhouse, several types of foundations are often used:

Tape base;
Pillars;
Pile foundation.

Tape base

This type of foundation is a classic option; it is used to build a bathhouse and other structures.

Strip foundations are:

monolithic;
prefabricated

The first one is a strip of monolith, it is located along the entire base of the perimeter of the future bathhouse with jumpers in the middle that serve as support for load-bearing walls buildings. The process of this foundation itself involves digging a trench and laying a deck. Before pouring concrete, metal reinforcement must be laid.

A prefabricated strip foundation can be erected if there is an access road near the future bathhouse. Mobiles weigh quite a lot; cranes are used for this.

Foundation pillars

This foundation is often used in flooded areas in order to save money - since it does not require the use of a large amount of materials.

To build a foundation with pillars, it is necessary to dig at least 6 identical holes around the perimeter of the future structure. Afterwards, a concrete solution is poured, mainly with stone admixtures, thereby erecting pillars. The distance between supports must be at least 1.5 meters.

A columnar foundation distributes the weight of a structure evenly and can support a building with several floors. Foundation pillars prevent water from entering during flooding.

Pile foundation

Piles are often used in areas with a sloping slope.

If there is no time and opportunity to correct the slope on the site, then they come to help screw piles. They can be installed easily by several men in just 3 days.

A screw pile is similar in appearance to a rod, it is hollow and is made of durable metal. Top layer The rod is coated with a special anti-corrosion agent so that when screwed in (when scratches form), corrosion does not occur.

Laying the first crowns

After the foundation has been erected and completely dried, you can begin laying the first crowns, it’s not difficult, the main thing is to use building level.

The first thing you need to do is check the first log for evenness; for this you need to use a level (not by eye, as many do). A perfectly even beam at the base is the key to the successful construction of the entire structure.

The first crown should be much thicker than all subsequent ones; all subsequent ones will be supported on it. Experienced builders claim that the first crown should have sections of 20/20 cm, and all the rest will be laid above it, with sections of 15/15 cm, no less.

The first crowns must be laid not on the foundation itself, but on pre-fixed wooden beams, 1.5 cm wide. This will prevent the occurrence of dampness and rotting and increase the service life of its use.

Before you fold the tree, you should know that you cannot do it tightly; over time, it will shrink and swell a little. There is no need to secure the lower beam - the pressure of all higher rows provides it with good fixation. If the bottom frame of the bathhouse needs to be replaced, then dismantling the entire structure is not required, but only the bottom row needs to be removed.

This video will tell you more about the features of wall construction wooden bath.

Walling

If the walls have not been pre-treated, then it is worth doing; for this, the wood is coated with a special protective agent, which prevents fire and protects against harmful insects. When choosing logs, preference should be given to logs without knots, as this may require additional processing of the material.

Before assembling the walls, everyone should know that this can be done in two ways:

With remainder;
Without a trace.

Laying beams with a remainder involves protruding the ends of the logs beyond the horizontal surface. Without leaving any residue, the logs lie close together without protruding ends. Let's look at each one step by step.

A bathhouse without the remains of protruding logs requires less expense than with the remainder; the second one requires logs more than half a meter long than in the masonry of the first method.

In construction practice, there are several ways to connect a log frame with the rest:

Oblo;
Oclap;
Ohryap.

First option involves cutting out a round bowl of the top log, after which the next transverse log is placed into it.

Second option similar to the first one, only the bowl is carved on the bottom of the log.

Third way has significant differences from the previous two. In this case, rectangular grooves are made on both sides for about a quarter of the length.

It is necessary to lay insulation on the first row; moss or tow is often used. After laying the second row, secure it; it can be done in two ways, using metal pins or wooden dowels.

Having laid all the crowns, you should know that the last few are not fixed, as they will eventually become stacked. Ceiling beams are laid on top.

Caulking cracks

The construction of a bathhouse involves caulking the cracks. Experts say that this is not necessary, since wooden structures, especially bathhouses, swell, smoothing out the cracks. If you don’t caulk the walls, then if for a long time If you don’t use a steam room, the logs in it dry out and thereby shrink, so you still need to caulk the cracks.

The material for caulking cracks must have the following qualities:

Good moisture absorption;
Retain heat and allow air to pass through;
It should not harbor mold or insects;
The material must be able to withstand temperature fluctuations well;
It must be environmentally friendly.

Very often, materials such as flax tow, bog moss, tow, sphagnum or hemp are used to caulk cracks in timber structures. All these materials absorb moisture well and protect the building from heat loss.

Roof

The roof for the steam room can be single-pitched or gable. For a bathhouse made of 6x6 timber, they are often used gable roof, it is perfectly suited to the weather conditions of our country (under it you can place an attic, an attic).

For a small steam room made of 6x3 timber you can use pitched roof, before installing it, you need to think about insulation in advance. Insulation can be done in two ways, namely using mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is much more expensive and more difficult to install. Polystyrene foam is much cheaper and its installation will take much less time.

Installation of doors and windows

The installation of doors and window frames can be done in parallel with the construction of walls or after. When building, do not forget that the bathhouse will settle over time, so installing windows in parallel with construction can be very risky.

When the building is ready, you can begin installing window frames. If the spaces previously left for windows turned out to be smaller than the frame itself, then they can be cut through with a chainsaw.

Windows for the steam room use plastic or wooden frames. As for the door, preference should be given to wood and when installing it should be remembered that even the treated surface of wood swells when there is high moisture, and shrinks when there is insufficient moisture.

There must be a small threshold under a wooden door, which will prevent heat loss. The handle on the door on the steam room side should be made of wood; metal can cause burns.

Construction of a timber structure by professionals from a construction company. What is better to do yourself or hire professionals?

Natural shrinkage, interior work

The finishing of the timber bathhouse inside should be done as soon as the structure is settled. After laying the upper side beams, the structure should be covered with slate and left for at least six months without use, preferably in winter.

After six months, the coating is removed, then covered permanent roof, install windows, doors and carry out interior work.

If you do not have experience in construction, then in this case preference should be given to small bathhouses, measuring 3.5/3.5 meters; it can accommodate a family of 3-4 people, and its equipment may consist of a dressing room, washing and of course a steam room.

If your private plot small, then in this case the bathhouse can be combined with a utility room; very often a steam room is attached to a summer kitchen.

It is better to locate such a structure in the depths of the site, so that the neighbors do not interfere with your relaxation.

It is better for an inexperienced builder to give preference to a strip foundation, if the soil allows it.

The walls, both inside and outside, do not require special coating; in extreme cases, this can be done with varnish or an antiseptic

Many people believe that a bathhouse is an expensive pleasure, moreover, it is made of double timber, that is, a natural, expensive material. Not everyone thinks that you can make the blanks yourself on your own, and then build the steam room itself, thereby getting a full-fledged Russian bathhouse made from natural timber at a low cost, which will delight you for many years.

Today, many people prefer to build a bathhouse with their own hands, since this option is cheaper, and the construction of the structure is not very complicated. There are different materials, from which you can make a bath: rounded logs, aerated concrete and beams.

Many people choose wood because it is a natural and environmentally friendly material that creates an atmosphere of unity with nature. A sauna made of timber is an excellent alternative to a sauna made of rounded logs, because appearance it is almost the same, but the process of its construction is much simpler and takes less time.

In addition, construction from timber is similar to traditional construction, since in Rus' strong buildings were built, but without nails; when building a bathhouse with your own hands from timber, nails are also not used.

Advantages of a timber bath

environmental friendliness of the material. It contains no harmful impurities, it has a pleasant and natural woody aroma;
easy installation. Anyone can build a bathhouse from timber, even a person with little experience working with building materials and tools;
saving time. Building a bathhouse from timber will take less time than using other materials;
minimal shrinkage (only 6-10 cm), which will help protect the interior from deformation. The shrinkage of timber is two times lower than that of conventional log structures;
a good level of thermal insulation, the desired microclimate will be maintained in the steam room;
low cost. Building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands will be much cheaper than constructing log and brick structures;
there is no need to build a reinforced foundation, which simplifies the construction process and also reduces the cost of the structure.

How to make a bathhouse from timber? Selecting materials

The quality of the bath itself directly depends on the choice of material. Properly selected wood is a guarantee of quality. When choosing a material, you need to carefully examine it - there should be no cracks on the logs, since they will gradually expand, which will lead to rotting of the beams. By the way, the presence of blue spots on the tree just indicates that rotting is already occurring. The presence of holes due to beetles is also a sign of poor quality material.

So what does it look like good timber which is suitable for assembling a bathhouse from timber with your own hands? Smooth and perfectly even wood, which has a natural color, without any blue inclusions.

As for the tree species, the best option is combination. It is best to make several lower rows from larch, and the rest from cedar, spruce and pine. What are the advantages of this approach? Larch has high moisture resistance; over time it does not deform, but, on the contrary, only becomes harder and stronger. But this material is not cheap, so complete construction from it will be expensive. Conifers much cheaper, in addition, they also have good moisture resistance, and in terms of thermal insulation properties they are even ahead of larch. Also, when heated, coniferous trees release resins that give a pleasant, relaxing aroma.

There are two types of beams: profiled and solid. The first type has tenons and grooves, which are additionally ground. When we build a bathhouse from this type of timber, the whole process is much easier and faster. Another advantage is that they provide high moisture resistance to the walls; during operation, moisture practically does not penetrate. But this type also has disadvantages: low fire safety. To increase it, the material must be additionally treated with a special compound.

If you build a bathhouse from timber on your own, using solid wood, then keep in mind that in appearance it is much inferior to a profiled one, so you will need to make external finishing siding, block house or other materials.

Also, the beams are divided into wood of natural moisture and forced drying. The second option is considered more preferable, since it practically does not shrink. But material with natural moisture is much cheaper. If you choose it, please note that you do not need to give it time to dry. It is necessary to immediately begin building a bathhouse from timber for shrinkage. If you leave it to dry, the water will begin to evaporate from the upper layers, and the inside of the wood will remain damp, as a result, cracks, splits will appear on the beams, and they may also become deformed.

Have your own bathhouse suburban area always pleasant and convenient. When planning its construction, you need to decide on the materials that will be used.

This article will discuss a bathhouse made of timber: the features of its construction, types of projects and recommendations for construction.

Pros and cons

A free-standing bathhouse on a country site can be built from several materials: bricks, foam blocks, planed logs, solid or laminated veneer lumber. A block or brick building will be more difficult and expensive to construct; it will not have all the charms, health benefits and cozy appearance of a wooden bathhouse. In addition, smudges and condensation will accumulate on the stone surface, while wood absorbs moisture.

In addition, baths from various types timber have other advantages:

like anyone else wood material, natural timber, environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances when heated, and often retains a pleasant and healthy smell of wood;
baths are obtained with high thermal insulation;
the most suitable microclimate for such structures is maintained inside;
the building looks great both outside and inside, so it does not require decorative finishing;
With proper design and construction, such baths can last a long time.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the advantages associated with the construction of bathhouses from timber:

parts are laid easier than a log, especially if the beam is profiled;
the lightness of the material does not require the installation of massive strip foundation;
The construction process is speeded up due to the fact that the beams have low shrinkage.

In terms of cost, this is one of the most profitable options building your own bathhouse.

Reviews from the owners of such baths also point out some of their disadvantages:

like any other wood material, solid or laminated timber - flammable material: given that there is a stove with an open fire inside, the building will be a fire hazard;
due to constant temperature changes, cracks form in the wood over time;
A humid environment is constantly maintained in the bathhouse, and this is the cause of the formation of mold, fungi and rotting.

All the indicated disadvantages can be effectively solved: for fire safety, treat the wood with a fire retardant, to prevent cracks, carry out regular maintenance of the timber, and to prevent the formation of mold and fungi, coat it with an antiseptic and lay a reliable drainage system that will remove excess water.

In addition, bathhouses made of rounded timber or decorated with natural logs look like real village buildings.

The result is: a well-designed and built sauna made of timber has virtually no disadvantages, but it has a lot of advantages, especially since it is quite affordable option for a family with average income.

If you decide to build such a steam room, then first of all you need to decide on the choice of materials.

Types of materials

A bathhouse made from untreated logs, with all its advantages, has one significant drawback: round timber is deformed under the influence of moisture and temperature, therefore the entire structure will not be stable. U timber wall, especially if the profiled option is chosen, such a defect is not observed.

There are several types of timber for the construction of baths:

One-piece non-profiled th timber is the cheapest material. This is ordinary treated wood, rectangular or square in profile. After some time in a humid environment, fungus appears on such material and shrinkage occurs.

Planed timber is a type of solid non-profiled, only its surface is well processed: after grinding it dries for about a year. Before building a bathhouse made of dry planed timber, it must be caulked using breathable paints. In price it is inferior to profiled and glued types, but flat surface It is difficult to avoid any gaps during further shrinkage.

Constructions from profiled timber more rigid and stable thanks to grooves and recesses that are cut to their full length. It is in these elements that the beams are held together, ensuring maximum strength and the absence of cracks. There can be several grooves and recesses, their shapes also differ.
Baths from laminated veneer lumber have the greatest strength and thermal insulation. This material is obtained by gluing together several lamellas, each of which is pre-polished, dried and treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. It is possible to build walls from double or triple timber, sometimes glued lamellas and more.

Some people are afraid that adhesive composition This type of material contains harmful impurities and does not make the wood environmentally friendly. But high-quality beams usually use harmless and safe glue.

Frame system made of profiled and calibrated timber the most durable and easiest to build. Thanks to calibration, you can simply adjust the dimensions and create any project. The thickness of calibrated timber for baths can be from 45 to 275 mm. It is possible to construct various building units from it. The cross-section of such material can be rectangular or square; there are more than ten standard sizes.
The baths look great from rounded timber, which is specially processed on machines that give it a round profile reminiscent of natural logs. Moreover, it may have grooves that provide a reliable connection between the elements.

A log wall can be coated with any type of clear exterior varnish and it will truly resemble a log cabin.

Combined timber is a type of laminated veneer lumber, only a heat-insulating material is placed inside between two lamellas, which is why this type is also called thermal lumber. It is very good for frosts, especially in the far north, and contains practically no harmful impurities.

As a heat insulator combined timber Expanded polystyrene is most often used. The disadvantage is the price - it costs 2 - 2.5 times more than the regular glued version.

Now it’s worth considering the types of wood from which such baths can be built.

First, let's describe the properties of deciduous trees:

Aspen- this is a traditional tree from which Russian baths were built for many centuries in a row. She is undemanding climatic conditions, is used both in the far north and in the southern regions, is relatively easy to process, and is practically not susceptible to cracking. Its wood has a light white tint; the surface of aspen timber is easy to paint and can be treated with varnishes, mastics, and stains. The disadvantages of aspen include rapid darkening and a special specific smell.
Linden has a light shade, a pleasant smell with beneficial properties and a healing effect, therefore it is also preferable when building baths. The beams made from it practically do not shrink and retain heat inside perfectly.

Loose wood is susceptible to rotting. To prevent it, lower crowns baths must be periodically replaced, and the room must be regularly ventilated.

Oak It has excellent durability and exudes a unique, pleasant and healing aroma. In addition, this wood is very dense and durable. There are different varieties oak, for example, white or Caucasian, having a variety of shades: from light to dark brown. The only drawback of wood is its high cost, so currently oak baths are practically not built.
Larch Almost as durable as oak, its wood has a reddish hue that does not change even after many years, and has a pleasant healing smell. Baths made of this wood are durable and not susceptible to moisture. The disadvantages are difficulty in processing, poor thermal insulation and high cost.

Alder beam has a reddish tint and a special aroma, which will become more intense over time, practically does not emit resin, retains heat well and is not afraid of moisture. The remarkable property of this wood is that it does not overheat, that is, it is impossible to get burned by leaning against the wall in an alder bathhouse. The disadvantages are the high cost and poor ductility, that is, it is difficult to obtain even alder beams.
Birch not as strong and durable as the types of wood described above, but easier to process. Material with light shade durable, uniform and lightweight. Washing in a birch bath promotes a surge of strength and prevents colds.

The surface of the wood must be treated with an antiseptic, as it is susceptible to rotting and does not tolerate contact with moisture.

Coniferous wood, unlike deciduous wood, is not so protected from moisture, and when heated, it releases resin. But most varieties are cheap, well processed and have a positive effect on the body.

Pine- This is the most affordable material that is very easy to saw, sand and fasten. Wood is not afraid of moisture and high temperatures, has a pleasant specific smell. To protect against rotting, pine beams must be treated with an antiseptic.
Spruce is the second most popular coniferous tree used in construction. Baths made of spruce timber have good thermal insulation and moisture resistance. This wood also has a relatively low cost and is easy to process. From it you can get even bars that remain that way for a long time.
Cedar It has a beautiful and noble texture, is well processed, and is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes. In addition, it is not afraid of mold, rot, fungi and insects. It contains essential oils that smell pleasant and have a healing effect.

Projects

There are several to consider interesting projects bathhouses made of timber, which have an original layout and are easily erected on personal plot with your own hands:

Mobile saunas made of timber in their shape, size and design they resemble construction trailers or cabins that can be easily transported using a medium-sized truck and a truck crane. May have several windows and regular wooden door. It’s quite simple to create transportable bathhouses yourself from profiled timber with insulation. It is optimal to use an electric oven as an oven. Dimensions can be very different: from miniature (100x100 cm) to standard for construction cabins (2x5 m).

Bathhouse 4x3 m may have 2 compartments: a spacious dressing room where you can comfortably undress and place clothes and other accessories, a steam room with sheets and a stove. Such a structure can be easily assembled independently in a few days. For the foundation, you can use a simpler strip type: it will cope with the load without any problems.

Such stationary baths with a dressing room are well suited for a small family of 3 – 6 people on a personal plot.

Project baths 6x6 with a veranda it is more difficult to install, but it is a truly multifunctional unit in which you can not only wash and steam, but also relax comfortably. Inside a one-story building it is possible to create from 3 to 5 rooms with different purposes. For such a design it is necessary to use a reliable strip foundation.

Small wooden bathhouse with dimensions 3 by 5 m may have three rooms: a relaxation and changing room, a spacious steam room and a sink. Such a project can be implemented independently, using a minimum of tools and materials, as well as your personal skills. Under the pitched roof it is possible to organize a place to store brooms and other household utensils.
Two-story bathhouse with attic– this is a truly luxurious project that you can build on your own country plot. Like any one-story types, it will contain all the necessary functional units, namely a dressing room, a steam room, a sink, and will also have rooms for relaxation, comfortable balcony, pantry or even hall. Due to its massiveness, such a building requires the construction of a solid strip foundation.

Bathhouse with swimming pool designing and building is not as difficult as it initially seems. It is enough to build a spacious room from timber, dig a recess for the bowl, provide it with waterproofing and lay tiles. But the interior will be simply chic and will make a huge impression on the guests.
Chic project on a strip foundation with a terrace It is possible to build it yourself using available finishing and heat-insulating materials. There may be several rooms inside: a hall, a steam room, a sink, a small pantry and others. An extension in the form of a nice terrace can be equipped with a fence made of wooden slats.

Quantity calculation

Standard calibrated timber is usually sold by the cubic meter. To count required quantity cubes for the future bathhouse, you need to draw up drawings with dimensions. Based on them, a calculation of the required materials is made.

When planning purchases, you must also take into account the volume of mortar for pouring the foundation, the amount of insulating and decorative materials, additional elements.

How to build?

To start building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, you need to choose its location, building materials and create a project with drawings. Wood types have already been discussed in detail. As for the place for future construction, it should be relatively flat, without an abundance of groundwater, convenient for supplying water and creating drainage system. In addition, it is worth considering the direction of the smoke from the sauna pipe: it must be mounted in such a way that the smoke coming out of it does not interfere with either your own or your neighbor’s home.

It is correct to make a drawing or sketch in two projections indicating the dimensions and locations of the steam room, dressing room and other rooms, door and window openings. This method will help to correctly calculate the amount of materials. Next, you need to prepare and clear the space for the bathhouse itself, storage and processing of materials. After this, installation of the base begins.

The foundation for a bathhouse can be columnar or strip - the choice depends on the weight future design. Often, for wooden beams, the first option is chosen, since it is faster and more economical, but the second method is the most reliable. For a columnar foundation, dig holes for supports 15–20 cm wider than they themselves, gravel or crushed stone is poured into the bottom and a cushion is made of concrete. The pillars themselves are most often made from brickwork or blocks. First, mark the perimeter and install supports in the corners, then install the rest so that the distance between them is no more than 2 m.

The strip foundation is poured under the formwork, in which a frame made of reinforcement is pre-installed. For pouring, it is best to use concrete based on Portland cement with the addition of stones and crushed stone.

The depth of the strip foundation depends on soil freezing indicators: for areas with temperate climate it can vary from 50 to 70 cm. Thickness concrete base must exceed the width of the beam by at least 10 cm. The foundation must protrude 15 cm above ground level.

The pit for the strip foundation is dug manually using shovels. First, you need to mark the perimeter and install beacons on its sides using pegs and fishing line. After the pit is dug, formwork is assembled from boards inside in accordance with the dimensions.

Instead of boards, you can use special formwork plywood with a smooth chipboard surface: it is easier to remove after pouring. All work must be carried out in warm and dry weather.

To prepare the solution, you should choose high-quality varieties of Portland cement, for example, M400. Mixing should be done immediately before pouring using a mixer or portable concrete mixer. When the foundation is completely poured, you need to wait for it to dry, then remove the formwork, and begin laying the crowns of beams only after the base has settled. From above, the foundation is covered with layers of insulation made from rolled roofing felt..

The walls and floor are installed after preparing and sawing the materials. The beams, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, are sawn to size, and then crowns are laid from them. Do not forget about waterproofing - the first crown must be laid on 2 layers of roofing material. It should be the thickest, because the entire weight of the walls and roof falls on it. The space between the beams is additionally insulated with polyurethane foam or sealant.

The crowns of the bath are fastened together with dowels or metal pins. To do this, the already laid beams are drilled, while fastener The upper beam should completely pass through and be half recessed into the lower one. The distance between fastening points should be no more than 1.5 m. All crowns are mounted in this way, except for the last two: they must be removed to secure the rafter system.

It is optimal to choose a wooden floor for a bath: it is easier to install, retains heat well, and will be more convenient to wash. First, a sheathing is created from beams pre-treated with an antiseptic. Then insulation and waterproofing are placed inside. Planed and polished boards are laid last. The floor in a bathhouse is the part most susceptible to moisture, so it is worth considering that the boards will swell and deform over time.

For a wooden floor, you should choose polished boards 1–2 cm thick, well dried, treated with a moisture protective agent.

They are attached to the sheathing with nails or screws. After installing the flooring, you can make wooden or plastic skirting boards in the corners of the room.

Can be used for bath floors and screeds on cement based. Before pouring, the base must be insulated, then the sheathing or guides must be installed, then the solution must be mixed and poured.

Regardless of the choice of material for the floor, you need to install a drain in it and make some slope so that the water drains away.

Window and door openings in the walls can be made before assembling the crowns (immediately on the ground) or after it using a chainsaw. They install a casing made of boards that match the thickness of the beam. A sedimentary gap of about 2–3 cm is left at the top, which is then filled with insulation or polyurethane foam.

After the openings are made, do not rush to install window packages and door frames– it’s worth waiting some time for shrinkage.

The roof for a bathhouse made of beams is most often chosen to be gable and symmetrical: it is the easiest to install and can reliably protect against snow cover and storm water. Making your own rafter system for the roof will not be difficult due to the small dimensions of such a building. The beams for the roof are also made on the ground, treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic, then dried.

The assembly of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat - the perimeter base on which all other elements will rest. A central beam with vertical posts is attached to the Mauerlat, then cross beams with vertical ties are attached. At the end, it is necessary to fold the inclined rafters, which are connected in the center of the frame by a ridge beam. All elements of the rafter system are attached to nails, metal screws or wood anchors; their size depends on the thickness of the beam.

When wooden frame ready, you need to take care of the insulation and roofing. As its insulation, you can take non-flammable mineral wool, penoplex or expanded polystyrene.

You can cover the roof on top various materials: light and durable metal tiles will be successful various colors, moisture-impermeable roofing material or affordable and easy-to-install ondulin. The installation of the roof for a wooden bathhouse is completed by the installation of additional elements ( ridge strip, cornices, rain drains) and pipe insulation.

In terms of its aesthetics, quality and durability, a bathhouse made of wooden beam not much different from one built from rounded logs, but the process of its construction itself is much easier, faster and does not require a special level of skill. And the log bathhouse itself can be safely called a truly Russian building - after all, in Rus' absolutely all houses were built without a single nail, but very well and to last. So, we are building a bathhouse from timber - with a website portal

First, here's an introductory video:

The most important stage in building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is the choice of the wood itself. After all, this will directly depend on performance characteristics steam room The first thing you need to pay attention to before purchasing is the complete absence of cracks in the finished logs. After all, even the smallest, insignificant of them will certainly give a defect during shrinkage, constantly expanding in the future and even subsequently becoming the cause of wood rotting.

Secondly, there should not be any light blue spots on the surface of the beams - this is evidence that there is already in full swing there is a process of rotting, possibly provoked by fungi - it is no longer possible to build a bathhouse or a house from such material. Also, timber for building a bathhouse is considered defective if it shows wormholes or traces of being eaten by bugs.

Here's a good one quality timber will look smooth and perfectly even. If any distortions or defects are visible, all this will affect when laying the crowns, and the construction of a bathhouse made of timber will drag on indefinitely.

The timber is profiled and solid. The profiled one has tenons and crown grooves along the entire length, which are additionally ground. Such elements are easier to connect with each other. And the main advantage is that it is almost impossible for precipitation and moisture to penetrate into such walls. But among the disadvantages, we highlight the fact that this material has poor endurance and low fire-fighting properties. will have to be treated with additional propylene. Used for construction and solid timber. But it usually doesn’t look very aesthetically pleasing and you will need to cover it with siding or a block house.

But how much timber is needed for a bathhouse and how to calculate it? It all depends on the project. Any experienced master can estimate by eye required quantity material, and if an agreement for the delivery of wood is concluded with some supplier, he will calculate everything on his own and bring only the strictly required number of elements - no more, no less.

And, if it so happens that among the delivered beams one or two turned out to be defective, there is no need to use them for firewood - they can be sawn and the good parts can be used to make smaller construction elements: slats, door and window frames, and even floor boards. But the rejected material will definitely need to be burned - in order to prevent contamination of high-quality wood. That is why, even at the stage of the contract with the company, how much timber is needed for a bathhouse according to the chosen project, it is better to overpay a little and order “spare” ones - those that can later be trimmed and replaced damaged ones, if any (two or three will be enough).

How to prepare and process timber yourself?

But how to build a bathhouse from timber if it is not possible to order the material itself? In this case, you can prepare it yourself. It is better to do this in the cold season.

As soon as the tree is cut down, it is advisable to let it rest for at least a month, after which all the logs need to be carefully examined and sorted: only the highest quality ones can be left for the construction of a bathhouse, and it is better to discard damaged and bad ones.

Now you can start processing the future building material. So, first, the log needs to be cleared of bark, and to prevent it from cracking, it must be left on both sides - about 15 cm wide. After such procedures, you can put the logs in storage: at least 20 cm from the ground, carefully folding them in packs or stacks, making sure to maintain a distance of 5 to 10 cm between them.

By the way, it is advisable to make the two or three lower crowns of the bathhouse from deciduous timber, and all subsequent ones from pine, spruce or cedar. This is due to the fact that larch always retains its properties well, even in an intensely humid environment, and is much less susceptible to rotting, becoming harder and harder over time. But building an entire bathhouse from this material is a very expensive pleasure, but everyone can afford the first three such crowns. And the pine and spruce walls of the bathhouse are still slightly better in terms of hydro- and thermal insulation properties.

How to draw up a project for a future bathhouse?

It’s easier and more logical to choose a ready-made one. But first, decide exactly what your bathhouse will look like and what structural elements are required in it.

Bathhouse with attic

So, one of the most popular options is a bathhouse with mansard roof And attached veranda. A summer bedroom will be equipped on top, where it will be convenient to spend the night after bath procedures or leave friends for the night, and the veranda is a wonderful place for evening herbal tea.

Bathhouse with terrace

If you plan to build a barbecue in the yard, then build a bathhouse with an open wide terrace. By the way, you can put the oven itself on it. And over time, make an artificial pond in front of the bathhouse.

Bathhouse with veranda

A simple bathhouse with a wide veranda is one of the simplest buildings. In this case, it is better to glaze the veranda in order to make a summer bedroom, kitchen or put a billiard table in it. There are a lot of options!

Bathhouse with porch

If you are a follower of a real Russian steam room, build it with a traditional wide porch:

It is not only beautiful, but also practical. A table, a samovar and the scent of nature around – what more do you need?

Bathhouse with veranda and wide roof

Such a bathhouse made of timber has a great advantage - both the veranda is covered and the attic has a huge usable area, at least make two bedrooms, and the foundation will be compact.

Have you chosen a project? Then let's move on to the intricacies of constructing a bathhouse from timber!

Construction of a foundation for a timber bathhouse

A strong and massive bathhouse made of timber with your own hands can be erected on one of two types of foundation: strip and columnar.

To make a strip formwork, you need to build formwork around the entire perimeter and fill it with concrete - exactly to the depth of soil freezing. The height of the foundation itself should be at least half a meter above the ground: this is the only way to protect the lower crowns of beams from excess dampness. But inside the perimeter of the foundation you will need to pour strips of crushed stone or sand. And after two to three weeks, as soon as the concrete hardens, you can begin to lay the first rows of the log house.

To do columnar foundation to build a bathhouse, you will have to place brick pillars along the perimeter, corners and future locations of internal load-bearing walls. Under each of the pillars you need to make a concrete “cushion” to avoid their subsidence. The distance between such supports should be 1.5 m, and in rare cases - 2 m.

But, no matter what foundation is chosen, it must be strengthened with reinforcement - for strength and fastening of the crowns. And, of course, provide reliable waterproofing between the base and the first crown. To do this, a layer of molten bitumen is applied to the horizontal surface of the foundation, which is covered with a continuous layer of roofing material. And after it hardens, the whole procedure must be done again.

Laying the first crowns of the future bathhouse

So, assembling a bathhouse from timber is quite simple - whether it is according to a marked project, or improvised. The main thing is not to be lazy, use a building level and do not rush to secure the crowns.

The first thing you need to do before starting construction of the walls of the bathhouse is to check the horizontal surface of the beam for evenness. But not by eye - for this you will need a level. And the correctness of the entire design of the bathhouse depends on how ideal the first crown turns out to be in this plan.

You need to choose the thickest beams of all the subsequent ones for the first row of the log house, because it is on them that the entire weight of both the walls and the roof will fall. That's why experienced craftsmen It is usually advised to select for this the first beam with a cross-section of 20x20 cm, and all subsequent ones - 15x15 cm. Only the length of the beams should be the same.

The actual installation of the first crowns of the log house should begin by placing thin wooden slats along the entire base of the foundation (only they must first be treated with an antiseptic). The thickness of the slats should be no more than 15 mm, and the distance between them should be approximately 25-30 cm. Why is this necessary? So that the lower rows of beams are well protected from dampness and rotting, which will significantly increase the service life of the entire bathhouse, and it is advisable to fill the space between the slats with polyurethane foam or insulation.

There is no need to lay the frame of the bathhouse too tightly - in the future the entire structure will shrink on its own. The lower beam, which is placed on the foundation, does not need any fastening - the pressure of the upper rows will already provide it with the necessary strength. And it will be much easier to replace the entire first row someday, because you won’t have to disassemble the entire bathhouse.

In addition, the beams of the very first row must be processed on all sides (especially carefully the part that is adjacent to the foundation). You can use a modern antiseptic for this, or you can use traditional machine oil.

Methods of building walls

Before making a bathhouse out of timber, it is important to firmly understand the following: such walls are built in a strictly established order. So, first the crowns are laid, aligned and fastened together with wooden dowels or metal pins. They must be driven into specially made holes, the diameter of which ideally matches the diameter of the fastening pins themselves. And holes are drilled at a distance of 1-1.5 m, and the drill even goes through the top beam and half of what lies below. After which the lower beam is removed, dowels with a length equal to the height of the two beams are driven into the holes, and a layer of insulation is laid. And the top beam is put in place.

This is exactly how all the crowns are laid, up to the top two. By the way, there is no need to fasten the top ones. Because at the last stage of building the bathhouse, they will have to be temporarily removed to install ceiling beams.

In addition to this method, there are several more ways to fasten the beams together.

So, if nails are still used, then only without heads - those that sink into the wood, recessed. After all, ordinary ones rust and spoil the wood.

You can fasten the timber between wooden dowels - square beams 18x18 mm, the length of which varies depending on the size of the bursa, but cannot be more than 25 cm. To insert them, you need to make holes with a drill of 21 mm in diameter, after which you drive them into the dowels. And the dowels themselves should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern. By the way, you need to drill the bursa right through.

And finally, it is good to secure the beams with a “Force” spring unit, which looks like a screw with a compression spring built inside. Thanks to this fastening system, there will be no gaps between the parts - after all, the beams will press against each other with all their might. Although this method is expensive, cracks and deformations of the entire structure can be happily avoided.

If you decide to build a good-quality bath house, then be sure to get an accurate professional project, because the work ahead is not easy:

Caulking cracks

Interventional insulation can be moss, tow and jute - all of them do an equally excellent job of performing their heat-insulating functions. But it is most convenient to work with jute, which is unwound gradually, while laying on top of the beams, and attached to them with the most ordinary nails with a stapler.

There is no need to caulk after using jute. But if tow or moss was used, then at the end of the bath’s shrinkage period it is necessary to caulk absolutely all the cracks between the crowns - for this purpose a hammer, caulk and a wooden spatula will be used. The process itself looks like this: after shrinkage, tow is clogged into the cracks.

Roof construction

So, now let's move on to building the roof. The simplest option is to build a gable roof, under which to organize an insulated attic with good ventilation. But, usually in a bathhouse there is always not enough extra room to organize a guest room, bedroom, billiard room or home cinema room - why waste valuable meters?

It is only important to insulate it correctly:

Installation of door and window openings

You need to take care in advance about where the doors and windows will be located in the bathhouse. To do this, even during the construction of the walls, you need to leave a small gap in the right places, and after the log house has given its final shrinkage, the planned openings are made in the planned places with a chainsaw:

Natural shrinkage and interior work

The final stage of building a bathhouse made of timber is preparing the log house for the six-month shrinkage period. To do this, as soon as all the work is completed, a series of boards, 40-50 mm thick, are laid on the upper rims, and it is covered with slate or roofing felt. So the bathhouse should overwinter. And only at the end of the shrinkage period can finishing work begin.

That's it! Now all that remains is to protect the lower beams of the bathhouse from dampness, creating a high-quality blind area around:

And you can start internal work: