A bathhouse is not only a place where you can wash yourself and steam to your heart’s content, it’s also a nice place to relax and spend time drinking tea with friends or family. Therefore, when designing own bathhouse, first of all, seriously think about the thermal insulation of all its structures, especially the floor.
After all, this will not only save coolants, but will also help create the most comfortable environment for visitors to the bathhouse.
Reasons for a cold floor
The answer to the question why the floor in the bathhouse is cold is not clear.
This can happen for several reasons:
- Freezing due to uninsulated foundation.
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This problem threatens not only a cold floor, but what is much sadder is possible damage to the foundation and in the future even the destruction of it and other bathhouse structures.
- Drafts from the underground when the flooring boards do not fit tightly to each other.
- Floors are too low - located close to the base with thin layer or a complete lack of heat and waterproofing. This is in conditions high humidity in a bathhouse can also lead to heaving of the soil underneath, which will have a very adverse effect on the entire structure as a whole.
The need to insulate floors in a bathhouse
The floors in the bathhouse are affected by various factors that worsen the condition of its coating:
- Water is constantly flowing here. The coating practically does not dry out.
- In the steam room there is another negative for finishing - constantly heat.
Together, these two troubles can contribute to the emergence of other accompanying problems - the formation on the surface of all structures and primarily on the floor:
- Mold.
- Different types of fungi.
- Other harmful microorganisms.
This will not only damage the finishing coating in the bathhouse and make it unsightly, but can have a very negative impact on your health. In addition, it is completely unpleasant to step on moldy and cold floors in the bathhouse.
Note!
Many still believe that insulating floors in a bathhouse can also provoke the occurrence and spread of mold and germs.
Not at all, with a properly executed complex of hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation works you will be able to avoid both discomfort and the occurrence of pathogenic microflora.
Plus, heat loss, which largely occurs through the floors, will be reduced.
What materials are best to use in a bathhouse?
It is necessary to select materials to insulate a cold floor in bathhouses with special care. Mineral insulation is not suitable for us due to its high hygroscopicity, and in a bathhouse water flows without caution, that’s why it’s a bathhouse.
Perfect for this purpose:
- Polystyrene foam with its cellular structure and excellent water-repellent properties. This material can be used to insulate floors on concrete, wooden bases and soil.
- Bulk insulation materials – expanded clay, perlite, expanded vermiculite, etc.
How to insulate floors in a bathhouse
Let's talk about ways to insulate floors in a bathhouse, which can be done with your own hands in two versions.
Wooden base
Thermal insulation work is carried out at the construction stage, otherwise the finishing coating will have to be dismantled.
The instructions for the technology for performing this work are as follows:
- We nail cranial bars to the bottom of the beams.
- A vapor barrier is laid on top of them.
- Next, the flooring made of unplaned boards, chipboards or OSB is a supporting base for the insulation.
- We place the selected thermal insulation material on the vapor barrier between the beams.
- A layer of waterproofing is placed over the insulation. The insulation layer is calculated individually, taking into account climatic conditions your region. For a bathhouse floor this is usually 100-160 mm; if necessary, add another layer of heat-insulating material and increase its thickness to 250 m.
- Now we sew on the floorboard.
Concrete base
If the base for the floors in the bathhouse is concrete, proceed as follows:
- We cover the concrete with a coating layer of waterproofing from bitumen mastic, better in two times. Each time, before proceeding to the next stage, you must wait until the surface has completely hardened.
- We lay the roll insulator.
- Next is a layer of insulation, for example expanded clay, of the required thickness.
- We carry out compacted backfill with a thickness of at least 30 mm with mandatory reinforcement. In this process, it is very important to prepare high-quality cement, and to make the screed more durable, add a reinforcing mesh.
- Ceramic tiles can be laid on the screed.
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Under the tiles on such floors you can equip modern system“warm floor”, but this, of course, will significantly increase the price of the floor structure.
Do not forget that in the bathhouse, especially in the wash compartment, water is constantly pouring onto the floor, so it is necessary to organize its unhindered outflow:
- Floors should be laid with a slight slope.
- In the lowest place we make a hole for water to flow into the sewer.
- The drain is equipped with a siphon to prevent drafts and the appearance of unpleasant odor from the sewer.
Conclusion
Any insulation work process wooden structures must be carried out using antiseptics, which are used to treat the surface of a wooden floor. As for the concrete base, it is advisable to first repair all cracks and chips cement mortar, of course, except for the drain holes.
Cold in a bathhouse is a necessary and useful thing, if it is, of course, in the form of a tub ice water or a bucket of snow, in any other case this is a real disaster. It should be noted that this trouble is not the rarest one that lovers of brooms and steam have to face.
Not a high temperature in a steam room is common, many of us are generally supporters warm bath, but, as they say, everything should be in moderation. When, after throwing water on, there is no smell of steam, or it immediately evaporates, or your feet freeze on the floor, then this is no longer the case.
Let's try to figure out what are the reasons for this phenomenon and whether it is possible to do something.
It's all in the oven
I think that we need to start with it, because it is initially the source of heating. The type, design and location of the furnace certainly plays an important role in this.
Factory ones usually do not have problems with good warming up, which cannot be said about homemade ones. An incorrectly welded stove like this can bring problems instead of saving money. The absence of an ash pan, a deflector, a poorly designed firebox or chimney lead to the fact that water and stones simply do not reach the desired temperature.
Once I had a chance to visit one bathhouse with just such a stove - while it was heated, it seemed like nothing, as soon as the wood burned out it immediately became cooler. Therefore, it is very important to properly manage the heat received from the firewood: the fire should not just fly away into the chimney, it should warm up the water tank and the niche with stones.
In general, if such a stove does not cope with its task, we can recommend the following:
— the water tank should be placed on top of the firebox, and not on the side,
— warm up the stones directly,
- close the bowl with stones completely or partially,
- Install a valve on the chimney pipe.
Factory heaters usually have no problems with this, but there is another problem - they do not retain heat. Why is this point so important, it’s simple - quick heating is not enough, you also need to keep the heat for a long period, otherwise it will be a bathhouse for one.
This is achieved by increasing the amount of material capable of accumulating heat and releasing it gradually, and not instantly, as is the case with metal. For expensive models, this function is performed by convector casings made of stone; for budget products, the solution would be: partial brick lining, hanging a samovar-type water tank or a mesh with stones on the chimney, moving the chimney duct from the center to the side or to the rear wall (if provided design).
Increasing the mass of stones in the heater will not give any results - their top layer simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature
It wouldn’t hurt to read the instructions, although many people don’t like to do this. For example, some manufacturers indicate that the maximum t is achieved by completely filling the firebox with firewood and completely opening the ash pan. In general, take into account the features of your heater and learn to use it correctly.
We should not forget about the performance of the stove, because each model is designed to heat a certain volume of the bath/steam room. By purchasing or making heating device, you always need to figure out whether it can provide the required temperature regime.
As for those made of brick, the situation here is this - good heaters heat up quickly enough and retain heat for a very long time. But such creations are an expensive pleasure, because not every stove maker can put them together correctly, and he will charge quite a lot for his work. Here is one master I know who answered my question - how much will a small but high-quality stove cost me - well, 200 thousand rubles. How do you like this figure?
That’s why many people who don’t recognize modern potbelly stoves try to build the stove themselves, and not everyone gets the desired result. When laying them on your own, mistakes are often made. Incorrectly executed smoke circulation, firebox lining or the wrong cross-section of the well guarantee weak or too long heating. In this case, you can suggest making a combined oven - well, at least like this.
Poor ventilation
Let’s say you are completely confident in the performance of your stove, but it’s cold in the bathhouse! In this case, let's pay attention to ventilation.
In the old days, when they didn’t know what insulation, double-glazed windows or self-leveling floors were, no one thought about ventilation, the air itself seeped in and also went out through the ceiling powder. And the space of a village bathhouse was not divided into two or more rooms. Now everything is different, which requires a modern approach.
Separation of zones with careful insulation of each of them is simply not possible without properly arranged ventilation, otherwise the air will just stand - cold at the bottom, hot at the top. Our task is to make it circulate, thereby distributing the heat where we need it.
This is usually done like this: a small window is installed in the partition of the steam room with the washing room; it connects two closed rooms. In the washing room, usually near the stove, they do vent which is led through the floor into the steam room by a channel or corrugation. The system arranged in this way works as follows: heated air from the stones enters the room, and is replaced by cold air through the lower hole into the steam room.
It became warm in the washing room or they went to take a steam bath - the top window was closed.
This system can be modified and linked to a leaking floor, but more on that below.
Attention to the foundation and floor
Often the cause of coolness in the bathhouse is a cold floor, and the roots of this problem go back to the very beginning of the construction of the building, and they are different for rustic and modern buildings.
Typical for rural baths strip foundation, earthen subfloor and leaking wooden floor. This is where we proceed in solving the problem.
The space under the boards itself does not freeze even in severe frosts (for chopped bath), so to keep your feet from freezing, do the following:
- We increase the space between the floor and the ground a little. This can be done in two ways - make the foundation higher or remove a layer of earth.
- WITH inside Sprinkle the concrete/brick tape around the perimeter with sand or expanded clay.
- Make a pile on all sides outside.
- Do not lay the floor boards close to the frame or to each other; we also leave a gap near the stove.
- Make the floor slightly higher than the base of the heater.
Modern frame buildings, as well as from bricks or blocks, all this may not help, especially since in most of them you will not find a simple drainage of water onto the ground. They are equipped with concrete bowls with a system for collecting and draining water to the outside. Moreover, many began to do this not only in the washing room, but throughout the entire contour of the bathhouse.
In such buildings, t under the floor is often equal to that on the street, i.e. at -20 degrees in winter, after a week's absence, you will have almost the same amount under the floor. What happens - you turn on the stove, after an hour and a half it’s already hot, but downstairs it’s still cold.
It is better not to insulate the foundation from the inside with various types of foam-based materials - this threatens the appearance of condensation on the surface of the tape.
Including the floor in the ventilation system, which has already been written about above, will be very effective. In the washing room we make the floor leaky (in this case a special hole is not needed) and partially the same in the steam room. The heated air passes through the window into the washing room, heats this room, cools and is drawn back into the steam room through the cracks in the floor. By circulating in this way, the air warms the floor and underground space much faster.
For those who are flooded monolithic screed We can only recommend laying a water or electric floor; adding layers of insulation to the base will not give the desired effect.
Let's warm ourselves up
As they say, no matter how much you flood the street, it will not get warmer, so let’s pay attention to how you are doing with thermal insulation.
Baths made of stone, frame, panel and timber necessarily require insulation from the inside and outside.
Inside, this process is carried out using a long-established technology (there are plenty of visual videos on YouTube) - frame, vapor barrier, mineral insulation, foil, lining, so we won’t focus on this.
For greater reliability, it is advisable to carry out appropriate work on the outer walls of the bathhouse - they consist of laying wind protection and securing protective material from precipitation.
In log houses, the points of heat loss are: doors, windows, inter-crown grooves and the ceiling. Unlike the above buildings, in bathhouses made of round timber there is no need to completely insulate the walls. They already retain heat perfectly, and there is no point in covering such beauty; it will be enough to decorate only the steam room with eurolining.
Insulation work in such a bath is as follows:
- caulk inside and outside,
- insulation of doors and windows,
- ceiling insulation.
If you don’t need to sheathe the walls, then the ceiling is a must. This can be done only from the inside, only from the outside, or both.
From the side of the room, it will be enough to attach aluminum foil or kraft paper to the rough ceiling, on top of which the lining is attached with a small air gap. From the outside attic space you can lay insulation or make backfill.
Here, in general, are all the main points for improving your bathhouse. Of course, we must admit that some of them simply will not suit you, others will be difficult to implement, and others will not be effective, but this is how each building should have its own approach, its own characteristics.
Share your thoughts with us, we will be happy to.
Useful video on this topic.
The floors in the bathhouse are one of the most important factors comfort in construction. A cold floor in a bathhouse can not only ruin a pleasant time in it, but also become a threat to human health. To avoid such troubles, it is necessary to think through the design of the building even at the project planning stage, paying attention to Special attention thermal resistance of bathhouse elements, and especially to insulate the floor.
Cold floor sources
The culprits of such discomfort:
- First of all, the foundation may be improperly insulated or not at all insulated. The foundation is the basis of the structure and its correct laying affects not only flooring, but also for the entire structure;
- the boards used for the flooring are not tightly fitted to each other, which causes drafts;
- installing the floor itself too close or below the foundation level;
- a thin layer of insulating material.
Since the bathhouse is mainly built from wooden material, she is most susceptible negative influence various harmful microorganisms, rotting, mold. There is constant high humidity in the building due to the use of water, the floors do not dry out, and the air temperature in the steam room is elevated.
All this leads to the active development of these factors. You should not lose sight of any bark beetles that are not averse to feasting on wood, thereby causing irreparable damage to the wooden structure.
Based on the above, it is easy to understand why it is cold in the bathhouse and what reasons influence this. It is not only unpleasant to be in such a building, but also dangerous for the human body.
Preferred floor insulation
There are many thermal insulation materials in the construction range, but not all are suitable for use due to their low moisture resistance.
A huge amount of water is consumed in a bathhouse and can be resisted by:
- polystyrene foam with high water resistance. Its internal structure is best suited for these purposes and can be used with both concrete, wooden base, and on the ground;
- loose insulation material - expanded clay (porous granules from clay rocks), perlite (small mineral balls), expanded vermiculite (hydromica from rock), etc.
Methods for insulating floors in a bathhouse
Wooden floors are installed at the very beginning of the construction of the structure and are carried out in the following stages:
- We attach cranial bars to the lower edge of the beams.
- We place a vapor barrier material on top.
- Next, we create a retaining sheet for the insulation from chipboard, OSB or unplaned boards.
- We place a pre-prepared thermal insulation base on the vapor barrier between the beams.
- A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. The amount of insulation must be adjusted based on the climate of the building site. For the floor of the bathhouse, 100-160 mm is generally consumed, plus lay an additional layer of heat insulation, bringing its thickness to 250 mm.
- The final touch will be the stripe of the floorboard.
To extend the service life of wooden floors, you will need to cover them with protective agents. The same applies to all wooden structural elements. At the right process heat, hydro and vapor barriers will protect the wood not only from the appearance and development of mold and pathogenic microbes, but also keep the room warm.
In order to avoid high humidity under the floor, the underground space should be made ventilated, but there should be no drafts in the floor covering itself.
Thermal insulation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse
Another type of flooring in a bathhouse consists of a concrete base. Concrete floors must be insulated as follows:
- A layer of bitumen mastic is applied several times to the concrete for waterproofing. Properly performed waterproofing of the bathhouse floor in the washing room will help avoid many problems. When applying several layers, the previous coating must dry.
- Place insulator from rolls.
- The next layer will become insulating. Can be used in bulk thermal insulation materials, such as expanded clay.
- Next, all this must be compacted and the floor screeded using a solution of sand and cement. The height of the screed should be at least 3 cm. The main thing at this stage is to create a very durable layer, in which the reinforcing mesh will help. Reinforcement is a must!
- Such a floor can be covered on top ceramic tiles. Only non-slip sauna floor tiles should be used, taking into account safety rules.
There is a way to fix a cold floor in a bathhouse when installed with concrete base. You can build a so-called “warm floor” under the tiles. This will significantly increase comfortable conditions and add warmth to the room.
IN wash room baths use a large amount of water. To do this, it is necessary to create its outlet from the premises.
Wherein:
- The base of the floors must slope towards the drain.
- The drain hole can be one large or several small ones. It is advisable to equip a large passage with a drain mesh.
- A siphon is installed in the drain itself, which prevents drafts and disgusting odors from appearing. drain hole or sewerage.
Conclusion
All stages of thermal insulation wooden elements constructions must be carried out in accordance with wood preservation rules. It is necessary to use antiseptic agents for the flooring. Such products will create a polymer heat-resistant layer that will “breathe” and be easy to clean. Some finishing compounds can give wood a beautiful shiny appearance.
The concrete floor in the bathhouse should not be cracked, chipped or scratched. The coating must be smooth and uniform, not taking into account the slope towards the drain. Any defects that appear must be immediately repaired with cement mortar.
To summarize, if it’s cold in the bathhouse, what should you do? First of all, check the floor and walls for cracks that create drafts. The source of the draft can be a damaged siphon in the drain in the absence of the required water level.
Why can the floor in a bathhouse feel cold? One of the main reasons for the “coldness” of floors can be their improper arrangement. Failure to comply with technological rules, as well as the use of low-quality building materials, can lead to large heat losses in the room. We will talk about the factors that contribute to the cooling of floors, as well as ways to insulate them.
Reasons for heat loss
Why can the floors in the bathhouse be cold? In fact, there are a lot of factors that can trigger the problem. But in most cases, heat leakage through the flooring occurs for the following reasons:
- Lack of thermal insulation. Some bath rooms, such as steam rooms and sinks, may not be insulated. The absence of a heat insulator leads to a more intense exchange of heat between the floor and the cold foundation, which is why the flooring in the bathhouse begins to feel cold;
- Poor quality waterproofing. If, during the process of waterproofing the floor, the water-repellent layer is depressurized, over time this will lead to the thermal insulator getting wet. As you know, water is a good conductor of heat, and therefore a wet thermal insulator automatically loses its properties;
- Absence air cushion between the floor and the foundation. Underground with air gap plays the role of a thermal insulating plug, which prevents the floor in the bathhouse from cooling. If during the installation process an air gap is not left between the rough and finishing coating, this can cause large heat losses;
- Use of “cold” materials. If a thermal insulator is not used in the bathhouse to prevent heat loss, it is advisable to use wood as a floor covering. Concrete and tiles are excellent heat conductors. Laying them on an uninsulated base will certainly make the floors cold.
In addition, a bathhouse is a room with a specific microclimate. High humidity, temperature fluctuations and pouring water on the floor do not help retain heat. To remedy the situation, it is advisable to take care of insulating the base, which will not only help maintain a constant temperature in the room, but also prevent damage to floor materials. Constant temperature fluctuations provoke expansion and contraction of concrete or wood, which ultimately leads to the appearance of cracks.
The best insulation materials
What to do if the floors are very cold? To correct the situation, you need to take care of high-quality thermal insulation of the base. It is immediately worth noting that mineral insulators such as ecowool and mineral wool won't fit. When wet, they lose their thermal insulating properties and, moreover, become an ideal environment for the development of microbes, mold and fungi.
What heat insulators can be used in a bathhouse? The optimal insulation materials for floors in “damp” rooms include:
- Expanded clay is an inexpensive thermal insulator that is used in the construction of concrete floors. The smaller the expanded clay granules, the less heat loss. Since the material is made of clay, it is not exposed to water, so it can be safely used in a bathhouse to insulate the base;
- Penoizol is a liquid foam that fills everything hard to reach places. Thanks to this, it perfectly copes with the task of thermal insulation in rooms with harsh microclimates. With its help, you can seal cracks and crevices not only in the floor base, but also in the foundation, which is why the floor can draw cold;
- Foam plastic is a non-hygroscopic and very light material with good performance thermal insulation. Even when wet, it does not lose its qualities and prevents heat exchange between the floor and the foundation. Its thermal insulation properties are approximately 25 times higher than those of expanded clay concrete. It is often used when installing a “floating” screed, when laid in sections between joists, onto which cement mortar is subsequently poured.
Conclusion
What to do if there is a cold draft from the floor base in the bathhouse? First of all, you need to determine the cause of heat loss. In most cases, the problem arises from poor-quality thermal and waterproofing, as well as the use of “cold” materials. To insulate the base, you can use expanded clay, polystyrene, penoizol and other non-hygroscopic insulation materials.
