How to calculate the construction of a house from timber calculator. Calculation of lumber volume

Please indicate dimensions in millimeters

W- board width
H- board thickness
L- board length

Initial data
N- quantity in pieces
E- quantity in cubic meters
Many people, when building a house or bathhouse, are faced with the need to calculate how much lumber is needed for the job. It’s easy to determine how many boards or timber you need. But the price of lumber is usually indicated for cubic meter, and in this case it will be more convenient to use a special program for calculations. Using our website, knowing the length, width and thickness of the board, as well as their number in pieces, you can calculate how many cubic meters of lumber you will need and how much one cubic meter or one board will cost.

Scope of application

Lumber is so called because it is obtained by sawing the trunk of a tree. Lumber is used for construction, making furniture, various containers and other products. Today this type of building materials is the most popular. The wood from which lumber is made is an excellent heat-insulating material, maintains stable humidity and does not require special processing or maintenance, which makes it especially convenient.

Types of lumber

Lumber includes timber, edged boards, unedged boards, and construction slats. A beam is a log processed on all sides. When cut, it has a square or rectangular cross-section. Timber is most widely used in the construction of houses, bathhouses and floor structures.
Edged board is a universal lumber that is actively used both in construction work both outside the building and when decorating the interior space. The cross-section of an edged board is an elongated rectangle. An unedged board differs from an edged board in that its edges are not cut off, so that the layer of bark of the tree from which the board was cut remains visible. A construction lath or beam is a beam with a smaller cross-section than a regular one and is widely used in construction.
Lumber varies according to the type of wood it is made from. They are made from coniferous trees such as pine, spruce and larch. And from hardwoods such as oak and beech, birch, and aspen.
Lumber is also classified by moisture content. They are divided into raw with a moisture level of more than 22 percent and dry with a moisture content below 22 percent. The former are used for construction work, and the latter for the manufacture of furniture.
There are also several types of lumber. The choice of variety depends on the scope of application. Thus, the highest quality materials are used for furniture. For joinery and moldings, grade 1 lumber is suitable, while grades 2 and 3 are used exclusively as construction boards. Lumber, if it is not used for a long time, must be protected from moisture. This may lead to their damage. It is not recommended to store lumber stacked on top of each other. There must be spacers between the layers of beams or boards.

FOUNDATION:
crushed stone backfill:
10.6 m³ x 1900 rub./m³	20140 rub.
concrete mixture B15-20:
8.1 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³	34020 rub.
concrete mixture B15-20:
35.5 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³	149100 rub.
reinforcing bars D10, 12, 16 AIII:
2.8 t x 37,500 rub./ton	105,000 rub.
foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6:
53 pcs. x 2360 RUR/pcs.	125080 rub.
sand-cement mortar:
1.4 m³ x 2700 RUR/m³	3780 rub.
edged boards for formwork:
1.6 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³	10400 rub.
roll waterproofing RKK-350:
4 rolls x 315 RUR/roll (10m²)	1260 rub.

TOTAL: by foundation

448780 rub.

COVERS:
pine beams 150x100:
4.8 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	33600 rub.
plasterboard Knauf (2500x1200x10):
26 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs.	6760 rub.
steel profile with fasteners:
220.1 l.m x 51 rub./l.m	11225 rub.
mineral insulation (Rockwool):
19 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³	70300 rub.
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
183 m² x 68 RUR/m²	12444 rub.
PE vapor barrier:
183 m² x 11 RUR/m²	2013 rub.
plywood FC 1525x1525x18:
1.4 m³ x 19,000 rub./m³	26600 rub.
subfloor edged boards:
1.5 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³	9750 rub.

TOTAL: by floors

172692 rub.

ROOF:
wooden posts (150x50mm):
3.7 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	25900 rub.
antiseptic solution:
54 l x 75 rub./liter	4050 rub.
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
167 m² x 68 RUR/m²	11356 rub.
bitumen euro slate 2000x950x2.7:
97 sheets x 399 RUR/sheet	RUR 38,703
roofing nails 73x3mm:
21 pack x 190 rub./pack (250 pcs.)	3990 rub.
figure skate (1000mm):
13 pcs. x 290 rub./pcs.	3770 rub.
edged boards 100x25mm:
1.3 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	9100 rub.

10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:100,100,0,260;195,195,0,260;0,100,100,100;100,195,139,139;195,290,100,100|1127:139,139|1327:75,37;75,109|1527:195,37;195,109|2244:0,33;0,157;290,157|2144:34,0;34,260;129,260;224,260|2417:290,34;290,67|2317:169,0|1927:132,-20

RUB 1,140,410.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

Do you want to find out how much it costs to build your house and choose contractors?

Place an express application and receive proposals from construction professionals!

Example of a 10x9 m layout for calculation	Structural diagram
		1. Wooden beams 150x150mm; 2. mineral wool slabs d=100mm; 3. Facing with siding; 4. Air channel d=20-50mm; 7. Wooden-beam ceilings d=150-250mm; 8. Ondulin sheets; 9. Monolithic slab foundation with block walls h=1.8m;

Wall made of lumber material finished with siding profile and internal heat insulator

Timber wall

The features of timber-timber housing have been proven to neutralize toxic substances, automatically regulate humidity levels in the range of 45-55%, and also have a beneficial effect on the psyche of residents.

The popularity of timber-log architecture in our country is predetermined by the cost-effectiveness, traditionalism and healthy environment of house-building from natural solids.

At construction bases it is possible to find timber products of standard sizes 150x100, 200x150, 100x100, 140x140, 180x180, 150x150, 120x120, of which the most purchased type is 150x150, as it provides optimal combination the complexity of installation, determined by the number of horizontal seams, and thermal insulation qualities, as well as an affordable price.

It should be added that now the share of sales of profiled, in particular, prefabricated laminated timber is clearly growing, which is characterized, in comparison with non-laminated wood, by 10 times lower compressibility when drying, as well as increased, due to tenoned joints, structural and thermal insulation qualities . An obvious negative point that slows down the widespread use of laminated veneer lumber material is its significant cost, which, however, is compensated a hundredfold by its long service life.

Approximate procedure for laying a timber frame:

First, on top of the foundation, covered with waterproof material, along the line of the walls, the lower row of timber is laid out, which is tied “into a paw” at the corners and at the points where intermediate walls are connected.
To door and window designs did not deform during shrinkage wooden house, door and window niches are surrounded on the sides by a “window” - profile posts. To do this, a trapezoidal tenon is cut out at the ends of the logs, onto which the so-called profiled beams are pushed, using a counter cutout. Technological gaps are placed along the top of doors and windows, filled with flax-jute or basalt insulation.
During the installation of a log house, log rows are covered with an inter-row compactor: felt, jute, flax jute, hemp, flax wool, tow, which after a year (or when the humidity of the tree becomes 12-15 percent) will have to be compacted a second time in order to reduce heat loss through the gaps between logs.
In order to connect the beams of the nearest crowns, dowel fastenings are used (rounded birch or oak rods with a diameter of 30-40 mm), which are inserted with a gap into the holes made through the three crowns of the beams, in increments of 0.3...0.4 m. Often, dowel fastening is replaced with large nails (250...300 mm), with obligatory drilling in the last log of a channel, 30÷40 mm deep, where the nail head is buried to compensate for linear compression wooden material when drying out.
When choosing interior decoration, you should take into account the constant deformations of the wooden material and, when attaching non-wooden facing slabs (for example, plasterboard), avoid direct connections with the timber wall by installing suspended buffer profile structures.

Siding cladding

In cases where winter habitation is expected, it is recommended that the timber structure be further insulated. Usually, on the street side, in a vertical position, thick boards, 100x50 mm in size, are mounted in increments of 0.4...0.6 m, between which thermal insulation mats, for example, such as: Rockwool, P-175, Izomin, Isover, P-125, PPZh-200, Ursa, Knauf, Isorok, after which a vapor-permeable film (Tyvek, Yutavek, Izospan) is stretched, lined with blocks, 25-50 mm thick on which the front false wall is installed (PVC siding, wooden lining or CBPB boards).

You need to know that the PVC siding profile will be used for many years and have a beautiful appearance, only subject to strict compliance with installation rules.

Manufacturers of plastic siding profiles, for example, brands: Snowbird, Gentek, Docke, Nordside, AltaProfile, Ortho, Holzplast, Tecos, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Mitten, FineBer, Vytec, announce a rich range of colors that allow any building to maintain its individuality.

Since the polyvinyl chloride siding profile greatly changes its linear dimensions with temperature fluctuations, it is important to provide for non-rigid attachment of vinyl plates.

PVC siding does not rot, is resistant to impact, biological, and climatic aggressions, and does not support combustion.

The vinyl profile only melts under the influence of an open flame, igniting when heated to more than 390°C (and wood is already at 230-260°C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source disappears, while the amount of hazardous emissions is no more significant than when burning materials from wood

Important points for fastening PVC siding:

The installation of PVC panels is carried out “from the ground”, and first the hidden starting strip is fixed.
To compensate for free compression or expansion of polymer siding, gaps should be provided, within 1 cm, in the areas of entry of external networks (pipes, wires, brackets, cables), as well as in the joining areas plastic panel and accessories (external corner, internal corner, H-profile, platband, etc.).
It is unacceptable to forcefully tighten the screws in the fixing grooves, because the siding profiles are suspended in such a way as to move freely from side to side.
In order not to interfere with thermal movements and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like warping of the vinyl material, it is more correct to screw in self-tapping screws and nails into the siding panel at the central point of the existing technological perforations.
When hanging another strip of siding, attach it to the trailer ledge with the underlying profile and, without deforming it, secure it with screws;
Installation vinyl profiles it is recommended to do this starting from the side wall of the building, moving to the front side, while each successive siding panel will overlap the previous one in the laid row by approximately 2.5-3 cm - this approach makes it possible to make the joints inconspicuous, for the same purpose The resulting joints for connecting rows must be shifted horizontally.

Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and prefabricated block tape

A prefabricated slab foundation is constructed over the entire area of the structure in the form of a continuous reinforced slab on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are mounted.

The type of foundation under consideration is used in low-rise housing construction to obtain the basement level of the house, on heterogeneous soils, in low-level situations groundwater. In swampy areas, it is recommended to construct the side walls of the foundation using a monolithic method, using waterproofing measures (coating, impregnation, gluing).

At the same time, the prefabricated block system vertical walls foundation, according to the existing reinforced concrete slab, is indispensable for limited construction periods, as well as for foundation work in winter.

An approximate method for performing whole- slab foundation side walls in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete strip:

First, the earth is removed to the planned level.
Gravel preparation, fractions 20-40, in a layer of 15-20 cm is poured onto the resulting base and compacted thoroughly.
Performed concrete pouring, layer 50 mm.
Superimposed waterproofing film with a offset along the border of 2000 mm, for the purpose of further waterproofing the sidewalls of the foundation.
For protection waterproofing membrane to prevent accidental ruptures during welding of the reinforcement structure, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is applied on top of the insulating coating, along the perimeter of which formwork panels are mounted according to the thickness of the foundation slab.
The foundation slab being manufactured is tightened from the inside with two meshes of welded reinforcing bars of section d14, type AII-AIII, with cells of 20x20 cm.
In the case of a slab foundation, ready-made concrete of a grade not lower than M300 is required, supplied by an automixer.
Curing time concrete mortar when to lay out the perimeter of ready-made concrete blocks is from 4 weeks, at a temperature of + 15 ± 5 °.
The laying of concrete blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, in two mutually perpendicular to the walls, guided by geodetic equipment. Prefabricated blocks are laid with a crane on a “bed” of sand-cement mortar.
Installation begins with laying beacon blocks at the crossroads of the axes and at the corners of the building. The laying of wall blocks begins only after the position of the reference blocks has been verified along the horizon and level.
On the top row of reinforced concrete blocks, in a panel formwork form, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed, 25 cm thick, is made.

Floor made of wooden beams

For beam floor Traditionally, coniferous wood (spruce, pine, larch) with a moisture content of less than 14 percent is used. Best beam- a block with section proportions 7/5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).

In country house construction, floors made of wooden beams, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.

When planning a wood-beam floor, it is necessary to use special diagrams that determine the correlation of beam sizes with the distance between supports and load; It is also permissible to proceed from the simplified calculation that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 1/24 of the length of the beam, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with intervals between beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 1.5 kPa.

If there is a shortage of lags of the design cross-section, it is permissible to use boards fastened with bolts, subject to mandatory observance of the total size.

Some features of installing wood beams:

The installation of beams is done in the following order: first the first and last, and then, with leveling according to the optical level, all the others. The beams should be placed on the wall structure no shorter than 150-200 mm.
The logs are moved away from the wall by at least 50 mm, and the space between the beams and smoke channel must be at least 0.40 m.
V wooden buildings the ends of the logs are cut into a cone shape, and then hammered into the cut of the upper crown to the full thickness of the wall log.
As a rule, in brick walls, the ends of the beams are installed in masonry nests in which condensation appears, therefore, between the cuts of the ends of the joists and the wall, space is left for air circulation, and if the opening is significant, an additional felt layer is placed.
To avoid molding that occurs when steam diffuses in the environment brick wall, the ends of the beam boards are cut with a slope of approximately 60 degrees, treated with an antiseptic (Tikkurila, Kartotsid, Dulux, Biofa, Pinotex, Tex, Cofadex, Biosept, KSD, Holzplast, Senezh, Teknos, Aquatex) and covered with roofing felt, leaving the end uncovered.

The attic floor is insulated with a vapor barrier layer under the insulation; the basement floor is thermally insulated with installation vapor barrier film on top of a layer of insulation, and the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation.

If the question is the load capacity of wooden interfloor ceilings is mainly settled by the method of obvious increment in the cross-section of beams and their number, then with fire resistance and acoustic insulation the situation is somewhat more complicated.

One of the options for increasing soundproofing and fire protection indicators timber interlevel floors consists of the following steps:

To the bottom of the beam beams, perpendicular to them, using elastic holders, after 30-40 cm, bars - lathing, onto which gypsum boards are attached below.
A fiberglass film is spread onto the upper surface of the resulting lattice structure and stapled to the beams, onto which mineral fiber boards, such as: Isorok, Ursa, Isover, Knauf, Isomin, Rockwool, are tightly laid out, in a layer of 50 mm, with a transition to the side faces of the beams.
In the rooms of the next level, a layer of chipboard (16÷25 mm) is nailed onto the beams, after that, a rigid mineral fiber sound absorber (25÷30 mm), and the chipboard slabs of the “floating” floor are laid again.

Bitumen slate roofing

Soft slate (also known as ondulin slate, ondulin, euro slate, bituminized slate, bitumen slate) is essentially a molded cardboard-cellulose material, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and colored with a polymer, ultraviolet-resistant, coloring composition. bitumen slate is made under various brands (Bituwell, Aqualine, Nuline, Onduline, Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit). Usual dimensions of corrugated sheets: 2000x950, number of waves - 10.

The main qualities of bitumen slate roofing- speed of construction and affordable cost. In terms of weak points, it is worth mentioning the rather fleeting loss of richness of color, as well as the noticeable flammability of bitumen-cardboard material, compared to metal tiles.

The roofing material is laid on a solid base made of sheathing layer and rafter beams.

In the case of private buildings, a structure of two or three spans with intermediate supporting walls and inclined rafter beams is usually used.

The interval between the rafter legs is usually in the range of 0.60...0.90 m with width/thickness rafter legs 5x15...10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed to a fixing beam measuring 100x100...150x150 mm.

The transverse overlap of the bitumen slate sheets and the frequency of laying the sheathing are determined by the slope of the roof slope: if the angle is more than 15 degrees, then the gap between the boards of the sheathing structure is set to 0.30...0.35 m, and the overlap is 17 centimeters.
Fastening corrugated sheets of ondulin is best done with lower zone the side part of the slope opposite to the leeward side, to protect them from wrapping under hurricane loads.
The next layer is laid with a shift halfway across the sheet, from the sheets of the underlying tier, in order to avoid unnecessary layering at the joints of four adjacent sheets, which contributes to the formation of leaks.
Euro slate sheets are fixed along the bottom edge to each wave crest, along two intermediate sheathing boards - to odd wave crests, and the top is covered with an overlap of the top sheet or a ridge piece. To secure each corrugated sheet, about twenty roofing self-tapping screws (size 65.0x5.5 mm) or nails: length/diameter -73.5/3.0 mm with elastomeric washers are enough.
It is enough to arrange the row overlap of the canvases in one wave, and when the roof slope is less than 10-11 degrees. - in 2 corrugated waves.
The ridge is strengthened from the side where the corrugated sheets are laid, with an overlap of 0.2 m, with screws being screwed into each corrugation vertex of the underlying corrugated sheet.
In order to protect and decorate the side sections of the roof slope, chip profiles are used, the fastening of which begins from the corner above the cornice, with an overlap of 0.2 m.

B rus is a fairly popular material for building a bathhouse in a country house, due to its relative cheapness and manufacturability. You can build a bathhouse from or from laminated timber without having special knowledge and special experience. You can spend one day in a team that is building a bathhouse and you can assemble the walls from timber yourself. Of course, a lot depends on the quality of the original building material and general construction skills.

Methods for calculating the amount of timber

In order to correctly calculate the required quantity of timber required for the construction of bathhouse walls, several methods can be used, each of which, unfortunately, will only give an approximate result that cannot take into account the quality of the lumber.

If a batch contains poor quality timber, it will either have to be replaced or used for other household needs. The calculations do not take into account openings, both doors and windows. After the calculation, you should add the volume of timber that will go to the floor and ceiling beams, to the racks or frame on the veranda.

If the walls inside the bathhouse have the same thickness, then they are counted together with the exterior ones; if timber of a smaller cross-section goes to the partitions, then it is counted separately. After the final calculation, we add another 10 - 15% to the final amount - this will be a more accurate figure that will reflect the real need for timber.

We count and get cubes

We find the total length of the timber wall, multiply it by the height of the wall and multiply the resulting figure by the thickness of the wall. For example, the length of the load-bearing wall according to the design of a bathhouse made of timber is 6x6 m with warm veranda is 34 m. The height of the wall is 3 m, we will build the bathhouse from 150 mm (0.15) timber. Multiply, we get 15.3 cubic meters

We count and get things

As in the first option, we find the length load-bearing walls- 34 meters and divide it by the length of the beam, which is always 6 meters. We get a figure indicating the number of pieces of timber that goes into laying 1 crown of a bathhouse 34 /6 = 5.67 pieces. The height of the walls is 3 meters, which means there are 20 crowns of 150x150 timber. 20x5.67=113.4 pcs. timber.

Checking the correctness of the received calculations

We check our calculations in a simple way. This will give us complete confidence in their correctness. There are 7.4 pcs in one cubic meter. timber 150x150. Let’s take and compare our previously obtained data: 15.3x7.4=113.22 pcs. timber.

The result is rounded up to 114 pcs. and add 10% - we get the amount of timber for the construction of a bathhouse from 6x6 timber for this project. Don't forget about the floor and ceiling beams.

Data required for the calculation

Length of load-bearing timber wall;
The height of the wall being constructed;
Wall thickness.

The length of the wall can be found by simply adding up all the load-bearing walls. If the bathhouse has a complex configuration, then its plan can be drawn on a sheet of paper in a box to scale and the walls can be measured with a ruler.

Wall thickness is the size of the width of the timber that will be used during construction.

It is better to choose an average height of 3 meters. Taking into account the shrinkage of the bath by 15 cm, the arrangement of the ceiling and floor, the ceiling height will be only 2.3 meters and this is provided that the floor beams are at the level of the first beam and the rafters lie on the walls. The height will decrease when finishing ceiling by 10 cm with plasterboard and by 5-8 cm on the floor when finishing.

Wall thickness is the size of the width of the timber that will be used during construction.

An example of calculating the amount of timber for a bathhouse measuring 6 by 9 meters

Let's calculate for example how much timber is required for a bathhouse 6 m by 9 m, with two internal partitions made of the same timber. We assume the thickness of the wall is 0.15 meters. Estimated height of the building: 3 meters.

Total length of the timber wall in the bathhouse: 6 x 4 + 2 x 9 = 42 meters
We multiply the length by the height and thickness of the wall: 42 x 3 x 0.15 = 18.9 cubic meters of timber 150 by 150
The construction length of the beam is 6 meters. There are 7.4 pcs in 1 cubic meter. such timber. Multiply 18.9 x 7.4 = 140 pcs. timber 150x150 6 meters long.

If the floor and ceiling beams are made of boards, then this amount of timber will be sufficient. If not, then you should take into account the timber on the beams, which are placed every meter and for such a bathhouse you may need 14 more pieces, which will amount to 2 additional cubes of timber.

And a brief “reminder” of the number of cubes in a coniferous timber (board) of various ratios of width and thickness for products 10 meters long. It will help you check the calculations made and prevent mistakes.

Table for calculating the amount of timber in cubes with various parameters, volume in 10 linear meters

The beam is really good modern choice for the construction of a bathhouse in the country or suburban area. High-quality, properly prepared and processed material will last for many years, and careful attitude to it and periodic treatment with special compounds will make your bathhouse almost “eternal”.

Before purchasing any building material, it is necessary to determine as accurately as possible required quantity, otherwise you may lose some amount due to remaining surpluses or the need for additional purchases, as well as the unaccounted for possibility of deception on the part of unscrupulous sellers. Timber, logs, boards and similar wood products, as you know, are sold in cubic meters, which means you need to know in every detail the calculations for determining the volume of these materials, as well as converting the required number of pieces into cubes and back. And in the case of purchasing timber for building a house, when calculating the required amount of this building material, it is also necessary to take into account the design and features of the future building.

Basic calculations - determining volume and converting from pieces to cubes and back

It is very simple to calculate the cubic capacity of timber, boards and similar lumber. To do this, you need to know the thickness, width (height) and length of the product. And, as you know from a school textbook on geometry, you need to multiply these dimensions:

V = T ∙ H ∙ L, where

V – volume of timber, m3;

T – thickness;

H – width;

L – length.

Dimensions before calculation should be given in one unit of measurement: mm, cm or m. It is better in meters, so as not to have to convert from mm 3 or cm 3 to m 3 later.

Timber size table

For example, let’s calculate the cubic capacity of a beam of 150x200. These dimensions, as you know, are indicated in mm. That is, the thickness of the product is 0.15 m and the width is 0.2 m. The standard length of timber and boards is 6 m (sometimes also indicated in mm - 6000). Or maybe another. But for example, let’s take exactly 6 m. Then the volume of this lumber is:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 = 0.18 m 3.

Now you can convert the required quantity (in pieces) of this product into cubes. Let's say 49 pieces are required:

0.18 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m3.

Knowing the volume of one product, you can also calculate the cube of timber, that is, determine how many units (pieces) there are in 1 m3. To do this, you need to divide 1 cube by the cubic capacity of one product, already calculated or taken from reference tables (in the example under consideration - 0.18 m3):

1 / 0.18 = 5.55555... pcs.

The amount of this type of timber is calculated in the same way for any volume.

Nuances of calculations - how not to make mistakes and not be deceived

As follows from the above methods and calculation examples, it is very easy to calculate the required volume of timber in pieces or cubic meters. However, one must always remember that 1 cubic meter does not contain a whole number of these products. For the example given with dimensions 150x200, length 6 m - 5.55555... pcs. Unscrupulous, most often timber retailers, cleverly take advantage of this.

For example, you need 1 cube of this material from the example. The seller, of course, sells 5 products, but charges the amount for a whole cubic meter. The overpayment will be the cost of half a beam.

Let’s say that to build a house you need the same 49 beams from the example. And if the seller calculates according to the following scheme, then he will have to significantly overpay for the timber received:

1 cube – 5 products 150x200, 6 m long;
49/5 = 9.8 cubic meters payable.

This is a scam pure water for 5 units of timber. They are superfluous and unnecessary, but will be paid for but not received. In the calculation examples above, the data of 49 products has already been converted into cubes - this is 8.82 m 3. That is, a “particularly enterprising” seller will deceive an inattentive buyer by:

9.8 – 8.82 = 0.98 m 3 timber,

which is 0.98/0.18 = 5.44444... pcs. of this lumber (0.18 – the volume of one product calculated above).

Therefore, the most correct thing would be to calculate in advance exactly the number of units (pieces) of material, and only then, using this data and the dimensions of the timber or board, calculate their actual cubic capacity.

That is, in the case of purchasing one cubic meter in the example above, you must first decide how many beams you really need to take - 5 or 6. And then we calculate their cubic capacity:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 5 (or 6 pcs.) = 0.9 (or 1.08) m 3.

And for 49 units of this timber:

0.15 ∙ 0.2 ∙ 6 ∙ 49 = 8.82 m 3.

Then you will have to pay exactly for these 0.9 (1.08) or 8.82 cubes, receiving exactly 5 (6) or 49 products. Moreover, both the quantity in pieces and the volume in m3 must be indicated in the invoice for the timber sold by the seller.

Other features of calculating lumber cubic capacity

Another important feature that you should know to correctly calculate the cubic capacity of timber or boards when purchasing them. The actual length of lumber is usually always slightly longer than the standard or declared by the manufacturer of this product. So, instead of 6 m, the average length of the timber in question is, as a rule, 6.05 m. This is due to the fact that the ends of the lumber are not processed after cutting, which is why they may turn out to be uneven, go at angles, and be different, or simply be dirty. Of course, you don’t have to pay for these 5 cm. But some cunning sellers, although quite rarely, still try to take even this into account when calculating cubic meters, which is pure deception.

And regarding calculations for tongue and groove and profiled timber. The presence of tenons, grooves, and other protruding or chiseled places should not be confusing. Calculating the cubic capacity of such materials is no different from determining the volume of ordinary products that are even on all sides. For tongue-and-groove and profiled lumber, the rule is that only the main part (working width) of the product is measured and taken into account, and all structurally necessary and/or decorative elements are not taken into account in calculations. This provision applies to absolutely all types of timber.

Purchase of large volumes of materials - calculation of folded and dense cubic meters

When it is necessary to purchase a large amount of timber, their cubic capacity is calculated somewhat differently than discussed above. For example, timber and boards are needed to build an impressive, spacious house, as well as various other outbuildings near it. At the same time, the necessary lumber will certainly be available different sizes in cross section and length. Measuring and calculating each type of required material for such purchase volumes is an activity that can take more than one day.

For such cases, there is a specific calculation method. It is based on two important concepts:

1. Dense cubic meter of wood. This is the name given to a volume occupied only by wood and without voids or gaps in it. It is determined by measuring individual timber pieces individually, and then subsequently calculating their total cubic capacity.
2. Folded cubic meter. This is the name given to the volume occupied by lumber stacked as densely as possible and having voids, as well as gaps between individual wood products. It is determined by measuring the stack and then multiplying the dimensions of the latter. Moreover, in such a package the main amount of material should have approximately the same length, and the remaining products can be shorter, but not longer. It is allowed to have short lumber in the stacks, which should be stacked tightly one after another.

In order to quickly calculate the large volume of required purchased lumber, which has already been prepared and stored in the form of a stack, the latter is first measured and then its cubic capacity is calculated. This will calculate the fold cubic capacity. Then its value must be multiplied by a special conversion factor. The result will be a volume of only wood (a dense cubic meter), that is, exactly those materials that are purchased and will be paid for.

The value of the conversion factor is regulated by a number of standards for lumber: GOST 6782.2-75, 6782.1-75, 6564-84, OST 13-24-86 and others. For timber and boards, depending on their moisture content and the type of wood from which they are made, the value is in the range of 0.74–0.82.

We calculate the required cubic capacity of timber for building a house

Height external walls, measured from the foundation level. Let's denote it as H.
The height of the internal partition walls, if they exist and should be made of timber.
The length of the outer and interior walls.
Number and length of bars used in rafter system, as floor beams and, as well as in its other structures - if provided for by the project.

Then we select the thickness of the material for each of the above structural elements. For external and internal load-bearing walls, depending on the purpose of the house being built and the region where it is being built. For non-load-bearing partitions - at your own discretion. The base (lowest) crown of external walls is usually slightly thicker than the rest of the timber for them. For other structural elements, the thickness of the material is selected based on its operating conditions, as well as the required strength of the structures in which it is used. In a well-drafted project, by the way, the thickness of the timber used for the walls, plinth crown, and other structures of the building should already be indicated.

Now all that remains is pure arithmetic. First, we calculate the perimeter of the house - add up the length of all its external wall structures. For a simple rectangular or square structure, you just need to add its width and length, and multiply the resulting value by 2. Then we calculate the cubic capacity of the base crown:

V C = T C ∙ Z C ∙ I, where

V C – total cubic capacity of basement lumber, m 3;

T Ts – thickness of the base product, m;

Z T – its width (height), m;

I – perimeter of external walls, m.

We calculate the remaining height of the external walls, m:

h = H – Z Ts, where

H – total height, m.

We calculate the area of external wall structures without a plinth, m2:

If the thickness of the material of the base crown is the same as that of the entire wall, then the area of the latter, m 2:

We calculate the area of the internal walls, the thickness of the lumber of which is the same as that of the external ones, m2:

S B1 = H B ∙ L B1, where

H В – height of internal walls, m;

L B1 – total (total) length of internal walls, the material thickness of which is the same as the external ones, m.

We calculate the area of the internal walls, the thickness of which is different, m2:

S B2 = H B ∙ L B2, where

L B2 - total length of internal walls, the thickness of the material is different, m.

We calculate the cubic capacity of the main lumber - for external walls and internal partitions from the same timber, m 3:

V S = (S H + S B1) ∙ Z S, where

Z S – selected product thickness, m.

We determine the volume of material for internal partitions from other timber, m3:

V B = S B2 ∙ Z V, where

Z B is the selected material thickness for these partitions, m.

We divide the results obtained (V C, V S and V B) by the length of the purchased lumber and its selected width (height). You will get the amount of material in pieces. We round this value to a whole value, and then recalculate V C, V S and V B, as described in the second chapter.

To save on lumber, you should calculate the total areas of window, door and other openings for the corresponding walls. Then their values must be subtracted from S H, S B1 and S B2, respectively. After this, we calculate V S and V B using the same formulas. Then we increase the obtained values by 10–20% - so that there is a reserve just in case.

The cubic capacity of the timber for the remaining elements of the house in which it is used is calculated even easier. Its total length is calculated and multiplied by the thickness and width selected for the material.

It doesn't matter if you found a decent one construction company or you decide to make a house from timber with your own hands - at some stage you just need to calculate the amount of lumber required for its construction. What do you need to know for this? Firstly, how much and what kind of timber is needed for the house. Secondly, how much is there approximately in one cubic meter. And only then you can carry out a simple calculation of the cost of construction and even draw up an approximate estimate.

We calculate the amount (consumption) of material

Let us immediately make a reservation that all the calculations below are approximate. More precise volumes of material can be determined based on a specific project. The cubic capacity of lumber for timber walls can be calculated as follows:

calculate the perimeter of the house;
multiply it by the height of the floor;
multiply the resulting value by the thickness of the timber;
As a result, we have the number of cubes for the construction of one floor.

If, in addition to external walls, the presence of internal partitions (also made of timber) is also implied, then they are additionally taken into account. If desired, the material can be calculated not only by volume, but also in pieces, dividing the total volume by pieces.

Let's give specific example: it is necessary to build a small one-story house 5 × 7 m with a simple attic and one partition. The ceiling height is 3 m. In this case, a beam with a cross-section, for example, 150 × 150 mm will be used, and the pediment will also be laid out of it.

Our calculations will look like this:

perimeter of the house taking into account the length of the partition: (5 + 7) × 2 + 5 = 33 m;

volume of the walls of the first floor: 33 × 3 × 0.15 ≈ 15 cubic meters. m.;

We consider the cubic capacity of the timber for the pediment to be approximately half the material required for two walls 5 m long and 3 m high: 5 × 3 × 0.15 = 2.25 cubic meters. m.

In total, approximately 17.25 cubic meters will be spent on the walls. m, or, taking into account the 20% reserve, about 20 cubic meters. m. But it should be understood that we did not take into account, for example, floor beams made of laminated veneer lumber (regular or profiled), as well as other design features. Therefore, you can safely add 5 cubes. As a result of such rough calculations, it turns out that the construction will take approximately 25 cubic meters. (Window and door openings, on the contrary, will reduce the need for lumber.)

How much timber is in a cube

Simple calculations allow you not only to calculate the cubic capacity per house, but also to determine almost the exact number of beams. This is easy to do: just know the required volume of lumber and the volume of the piece to divide one value by the other. Here is a table showing the most common section sizes for a material length of 6 meters.

Beam dimensions

When deciding on them, you need to proceed from economic feasibility. We are talking mostly about the thickness of the walls and the thermal conductivity characteristics of the material. Let's consider this in two variations: a summer (country) house and a building for permanent residence.

Thickness and width

The width of the timber should concern the developer only if permanent residence is planned, and even then not always - after all, any wooden wall can be insulated with effective thermal insulation, thereby avoiding losses for “street heating”. For a summer house, it is quite possible to use a section of 100 × 100 mm. Using ordinary unplaned material, you will still have to resolve issues with façade cladding and interior decoration, dealing, for the most part, with the problems of the aesthetics of the result. But for permanent residence it is better to use profiled timber with a width of 150 mm. In this case, you will still have to insulate the walls. As for the thickness, everything is simpler: it just determines the number of beams needed to build the walls. But, meanwhile, this also affects the number of seams between the crowns. To summarize the above:

thickness and width of timber for country house practically does not matter (for seasonal living in the warm season);
For permanent residence, you can choose a larger width, but you will still have to insulate the walls. Or you can save on cubic capacity by betting on high-quality insulation– it will be cheaper and more effective in terms of reducing heat losses.

So to really build warm house without insulation, the thickness of its walls for the Moscow region should be about half a meter. The same effect will be achieved when using 150 × 150 timber and 10–15 cm of thermal insulation.

We draw your attention to the fact that not all manufacturers and sellers of lumber are honest with their customers: you can often encounter an underestimation of the declared cross-section. For example, a 150 × 200 beam actually has a cross-section of 140 × 190 or even less. Be sure to check the actual parameters before purchasing! This will help you avoid getting into trouble, save money and nerves!

Estimate

Before deciding on the choice of builders, start monitoring proposals. To determine the most economically feasible option, ask different competing companies for their estimates for the selected standard or individual project, which includes all costs: both the cost of building materials and fees for performing all types of construction work.

Regular companies offer such estimates for free. It is noteworthy that for different companies, the total amounts for the same buildings can differ not only by 10–20%, but also several times. It is advisable to have on hand as much as possible detailed list work and materials to implement your idea - this is the only way you can avoid additional, unforeseen expenses along the way.

If desired, the estimate can be drawn up independently: by calculating the consumption of materials, multiplying the results by average prices (in total these will be the costs of building materials) and adding on top approximately 50–100% of this amount to pay for the work. Such an approximate calculation can be used to analyze offers from specialized companies.