How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands. How to lay tiles over a bathroom correctly

Every day more and more new ones appear on the shelves of construction stores. finishing materials. But when it comes to bathroom renovations, there is not much choice. For many years, tiles have held the palm here. True, the manufacturers of this material are doing everything possible to ensure that the consumer does not feel limited in choice.

The variety of textures, colors, shapes and sizes of tiles is so great that sometimes your eyes run wild. And decide how to lay tiles in the bathroom - horizontally divide the walls with decor, lay everything with the same tiles, or come up with your own original design– it’s also not easy. So, getting started do-it-yourself repair bathroom, be prepared to visit the store more than once.

Color, pattern, texture

Of course, various flowers and patterns are a matter of taste, but even abstract drawings in the form of lines are no longer in trend today. If you want to get a truly fashionable and stylish interior, focus on decor that imitates stone, wood, concrete, leather and other natural materials. In this case, you should refuse to lay tiles of different colors according to complex scheme as geometric shapes, stripes, etc. If you decide to imitate a natural texture, do it according to the rules. And they talk about combining finishing with different shades only possible on internal corners. In addition, materials of different colors must be separated from each other. You can do this by extending or recessing the planes on which the tiles will be applied different color and textures.

Size and type

The ideal option in terms of design is large-format tiles with a rectified (edged) edge. Upon installation you will receive minimal amount seams that will be almost invisible - such decor will always look elegant and modern. At the same time, do not forget to correlate the size of the tiles with the dimensions of the room, choosing an option that will require minimal trimming.

Shiny or rough

The age-old debate about which tile is better - matte or glossy - in the bathroom is clearly resolved in favor of the rough material. Having a velvet texture, matte tiles do not collect fingerprints or marks from water. In addition, in a room that should create a peaceful mood, it is not entirely appropriate to use finishes that will glare from any light source. And finally, the last argument concerns safety. Even if you are an ardent supporter of glossy surfaces, still lay rough porcelain tiles on the floor - it will not slip, even when completely wet. And leave the options with smooth, large mirror tiles for shopping centers - there it will be more appropriate.

Grout

Never use tile grout in the bathroom that contains cement as a binder. Of course, its cost is not comparable with two-component materials based on epoxy based, however, over time you will be able to appreciate the beauty of the latter option. Unlike cheaper grout, the polyester composition does not change color, repels moisture and is not susceptible to fungi, chemicals and other harmful factors. Remember that the color of the seams is chosen by you dark shade on ceramic tiles.

How to correctly calculate the number of tiles

Construction store salespeople are already accustomed to the sight of confused customers who don’t really know what they need. Even after choosing a tile, such people often cannot calculate exactly how much is needed. If the bathroom design involves combining several colors or tiles different sizes, calculation required quantity turns to flour.

In the end, unfortunate builders buy tiles, and after a while they return to return the remainder or buy the missing 0.5 m2. And if accepting leftovers in large stores is usually practiced, then problems may arise with the purchase of missing material. It may turn out that this one batch of goods has already been sold, but the store does not plan to order another, or the shade of the new batch of tiles does not match the previous one. You won’t notice this in a store, but at home on the wall the difference will be very noticeable.

The cost of high-quality tiles is quite high, so you should not buy them “by eye”. It is necessary to make an exact calculation and only then go shopping.

To avoid all these troubles when choosing tiles, follow this algorithm. First, take measurements of the walls and floor of the bathroom, taking into account the location of the bathtub and the sink hole. Then go to the store, choose a tile and be sure to ask the seller if there is a sufficient quantity of this particular product in stock for you. If there is one, be sure to write down the size of the tiles and the direction of the pattern on the decors.

Now go home and do the math. On a piece of checkered paper, draw an expanded plan of your bathroom (each wall separately), while maintaining the scale. Now draw the outline of the tiles on the walls.

The height and width of the wall is rarely a multiple of the size of the tile, which means you will have to trim it. It is on the plan that it is easiest to determine the places where the cut tiles will be least noticeable. In addition, accurate calculation will allow you to significantly reduce the amount of trimming. When the plan is ready, count the required number of tiles different colors. In order not to make a mistake, make the calculation not in square meters, but in the number of tiles.

Now you can go back to the store and buy the material, but do not forget that in addition to the tiles, you will also need glue for it. If your bathroom is being renovated by a hired worker, he will tell you what glue to buy. If your plans include laying tiles in the bathroom yourself, consult with the seller.

It is important to note that the choice of tile adhesive is quite wide, and if your bathroom does not have any special conditions, it will be enough to purchase the CM11 mixture. This glue has been used for many years, which makes it possible to talk about its quality. And the price, in comparison with other compounds, is quite affordable.

Preparing the premises

The tiles have been selected and purchased. Now you need to prepare the room for its installation. First, remove the furniture, then turn off the cold and hot water supply valves.

After this, dismantle the plumbing. If you do not plan to replace the toilet and washbasin, you need to remove them very carefully so as not to damage them.

Removing old tiles

If the walls are lined with old tiles, they need to be removed. A hammer drill will be your best assistant in this process. It is enough to set it to impact mode and place it under the bottom edge of one of the tiles. Before starting work, be sure to wear glasses and gloves - this will protect you from sharp tile fragments. For ease of work, you can beat one of the lower tiles manually using a chisel.

In some places, the old coating will fall off in large layers along with glue and plaster. Don't try to avoid it. All the same, the old solution will have to be removed.

Preliminary leveling of walls

When the wall is completely cleaned and you see a durable, dry coating, you need to measure its geometric parameters. For this we use a plumb line, a water level and a square. You need to do the following:

Using a plumb line we determine the deviation of the wall from the vertical
Using a square we measure the angles, each of which should be 90 degrees.

If the walls in your bathroom are smooth, you are lucky. Otherwise, before laying tiles in the bathroom, you need to take a number of measures to level them. It must be said that brick or concrete walls in our apartments are so rare that the likelihood of such luck is very small.

So, let's get to work. You will need:

Plaster beacons
Composition for their fastening (you can use a mortar for plaster)
Container for mixing the solution
Hammer with mixer attachment
The rule is any flat board or metal profile
Trowel or plaster ladle and spatula

If the wall is not strong enough, it is better to pre-prime it before leveling and before laying tiles in the bathroom. When the soil is dry, we attach the beacons to the wall.

We apply the adhesive in several places, apply a beacon and, until the glue is dry, set it level. Then we install the next beacon. Be sure to ensure that the beacons are in the same vertical plane. This can be done using a rule.

When all the beacons are installed, the gaps between them and the wall must be filled with mortar. This must be done carefully so as not to move the guides and so that there are no sagging on their surface. The glue under the guides has dried - it’s time to prepare the solution and get to work.

To level the walls in the bathroom, you can use regular cement mortar, but for strength and fluidity, it is recommended to replace one part of the cement in it with one part of the tile adhesive.

Using a trowel or plaster ladle, apply the mortar onto the wall. This must be done with short, sharp movements. Professionals start at the top, but if you can't do it, you can start at the bottom. When the space between the guides is filled by 1-1.5 m, we take the rule, apply it to the beacons and remove all unnecessary things.

Do not press too hard on the guides; it is better to make short zigzag movements. We return the excess solution to the common container and continue working until all the gaps between the beacons are filled.

If you encounter some difficulties during the work and there are uneven spots on the walls, after the solution has dried a little, you can remove them using a trowel. To do this, just apply a little solution to the uneven area and remove the flaw using a trowel in a circular motion.

After drying, the walls are ready for finishing.

Leveling the floor

Before laying tiles in the bathroom, it is necessary to level not only the walls, but also the floor. This can be done using beacons or a self-leveling mixture. Using the second method is much simpler, but more expensive.

First, you need to mark your floor and understand whether it needs to be leveled at all. The easiest way to do this is with laser level. It is enough to install it in one of the corners of the room and measure the distance from the laser marks on the walls to the floor. If this distance is the same or the deviation does not exceed 5 mm, you can do without preliminary alignment. Such curvature can be easily eliminated during the process of laying the tiles.

If there is no laser level, you will have to tinker.

Visually determine the highest corner in the room. From there, using a regular mounting level, draw a horizontal line along the wall. Then extend it in a circle to all the walls of the bathroom, constantly using a level.

In the center of the room, between opposite walls, stretch two pieces of rope so that they intersect in the center. If the rope does not touch the floor anywhere and the distance from the highest point of the floor to the mark on the walls does not exceed 2 cm, then this line will become the new level of your floor. If the rope touches the floor in one or more places, raise it a couple of centimeters and mark the walls at this level.

Now you can start installing beacons. This is done in the same way as on the walls, only you need to constantly ensure that the guides are installed at the level of the markings. You can check their location using a long level or a rule. Set a rule between the marks on the walls and make sure the beacons touch it. All further actions Proceed in the same way as on the walls.

Options for laying ceramic tiles: pros and cons

Existing layout schemes make it possible to emphasize the advantages of a ceramic coating and make the most advantageous use of the geometric features of the room. Let's consider the most common installation schemes, and also evaluate their applicability in practice.

Direct method

The simplest, easiest and most economical option is when the tiles are laid in even rows, which are located parallel to the line of the walls and floor. In this case, you can use both square and rectangular tiles. The latter is best positioned in such a way as to visually expand the space.

Running

Laying scheme ceramic tiles randomly resembles a drawing brickwork, in which each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by half of the structural element. This option looks especially beneficial when used rectangular tiles with an aspect ratio of 2:1. pros similar method- the same as with direct layout, however, there is also a disadvantage in the form of an increase in the amount of waste.

Diagonal

When laying diagonally, the tile rows are located at an angle of 45 degrees to the line of contact between the walls and the floor. A very effective, but also more complex installation method is good on large surfaces - where the eyes can take in a wider panorama of the intersections of diagonal lines. But in a limited space, this method should not be used, since it visually reduces the room. The disadvantages of the method include the complexity and labor intensity caused by the need to trim the material. The latter also affects the cost, since diagonal laying is the leader in the amount of waste.

Modular

If you want to make the styling unusual, then a modular scheme has been invented for you. Using tiles of different sizes (preferably with multiple sides), you can get an original, modern design. The only difficulty is to correctly calculate the amount of material. To do this, you will have to draw up a layout diagram to scale, taking into account the thickness of the seams.

Expert opinion

Victor Kaploukhiy

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction.

Tile adhesive – dry or ready-made

Sooner or later, everyone has to decide what kind of adhesive to use for laying ceramic tiles - a dry mixture or a ready-made composition. And here I would like to advise my readers not to be led by marketers regarding the convenience and speed of using ready-made adhesive solutions. Dry mixes are superior in a number of ways. Firstly, the presence of cement in their composition makes it possible to easily veneer a surface of any curvature - self-prepared glue can be used as plaster. Polyurethane glue “from a bucket” will require you to first level it. As for the cost, the price of the first and second options sometimes differs by an order of magnitude. And who wants to pay more, especially when we are talking about laying tiles over an area of tens of square meters?

Of course, some of you may claim that the adhesive strength provided by polyurethane compositions significantly exceeds the capabilities of bagged mixtures. I couldn't agree more. And yet, let me note that modern dry compositions have properties sufficient to ensure that even the largest ceramic tiles are securely held on a vertical wall. If after some ten to twenty years you want to change the design, you can easily knock the tiles off the wall using a regular chisel and chisel. A similar trick will not work with a polyurethane composition - it holds the material with a death grip. To remove the finish, you will have to use a hammer drill and spend more than one hour breaking the tiles into small fragments and removing them from the wall piece by piece.

Step-by-step finishing instructions

The preparatory work is completed, and you can begin. Let's start with the walls. First of all, you need to measure the height of the wall and divide it by the height of the tiles. If the result is an integer, you're lucky again - you won't have to cut the tile. But, unfortunately, the height of the wall is a multiple of the height of the tile quite rarely. In this case, the integer resulting from division is the number of integer rows.

When calculating the number of whole rows, it is necessary to take into account not only the height of the tiles, but also the distance between them. As a rule, it is 3-5 mm.

To make it more convenient for you, you can use our online calculator.

The traditional finish for sanitary facilities is tiles, since this material is ideal for use in damp environments. A good professional can lay tiles efficiently and reliably, but his services are expensive, so many are interested in how to lay tiles in the bathroom with their own hands. Doing this yourself is not so easy, but it is quite possible if you follow the basic rules for laying tiles in the bathroom. Let's consider the sequence of laying tiles on the wall and floor, as well as the rules for choosing materials.

Choosing tiles is an important step

Before learning the steps on how to properly lay tiles in a bathroom, you need to calculate the area of the walls and floor to find out how much tiles, glue and other materials are needed. Quantity regular tiles are calculated by square meters, and decorative - by piece or by linear meters. Since you will be laying the tiles for yourself, you can also choose the shape, color, patterns and shape at your own discretion.

However, there are five main parameters that you should pay attention to when choosing:

Resistance to the influence of a humid environment. According to this parameter, there are four classes of tiles (I, II, III, IV). For a bathroom and bathroom, class Ia, IIa, Ib or IIb is best suited. The letters indicate the method of tile production: a – extrusion, b – pressing.
Strength. There are five wear resistance classes: the first is the lowest, the fifth is the highest. Since the load on the ceramic coating in the bathroom is not too great, you can choose class 2 for the walls and class 4 for the floor.
Size. There is a wide variety of tile sizes. It is worth considering that the smaller the dimensions, the longer it takes to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, and the more difficult it is to make the surface of the wall or floor even. At the same time, it is better not to install large-sized tiles yourself, since they are very easy to damage, and they cost much more. Ideal for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, medium-sized tiles are suitable - 40 × 60 cm for walls and 60 × 60 cm for flooring.
Surface roughness. Smooth tiles are easier to clean, but they are very slippery. Therefore, laying tiles on the bathroom floor involves choosing rough tiles so as not to fall if you step on its surface with wet feet. And smooth tiles are quite suitable for walls.
Pattern and color. Of course, it is easier to lay plain tiles in the bathroom yourself, but such a coating looks very boring. Therefore, if you are laying tiles in the bathroom for the first time, you can choose tiles without patterns, with discreet small patterns, but for variety, you can put several tiles with decor or contrasting to the main color scheme.

When learning how to lay tiles in the bathroom yourself, it is worth considering that this is usually a small room. Therefore, interior design experts do not recommend installing tiles in the bathroom that are too bright in color, since a flashy color visually “eats up” the space.

In this case, it is necessary to take a small reserve, since during transportation, storage, or even during cutting and installation of tiles with ceramic coating, some materials may deteriorate.

Layout methods

Before you begin installation work, you need to decide how to lay the tiles on the floor or walls in the bathroom. To do this, you can choose one of the methods for laying out the tiles, the choice of which is influenced by the type of material, the dimensions of the room and construction skills. Correct technique The layout of the laid tiles can visually hide the lack of space and increase the size of the room.

So, there are several ways to lay tiles in the bathroom:

direct method. Due to its simplicity, this type of tile installation in the bathroom is the most popular. Even a beginner can easily handle it. The main thing is to follow the order of work, namely, where to start laying;

diagonal - this is one of the most difficult methods that a person with experience in laying tiles can handle. This layout is ideal for a small, square room with slanting or curved walls;

chess - this technology is classic version design of wall and floor coverings diagonally or straight. It involves laying tiles in two colors, usually black and white. Ideal for a square room;

with offset - this method allows you to create a beautiful and original pattern. The technology involves installing each row offset from the previous one, without connecting the joints to each other. But only a professional can cope with such a layout; a beginner will make a lot of mistakes. This method Best suited for a rectangular room.

It is worth noting that if the room low ceilings, then it is better to choose rectangular tiles and use the technology of laying tiles in a straight line. So, the methods of laying tiles are different; which one to choose is up to you, taking into account the parameters of the room.

Required materials and tools

In addition to the ceramic tiles themselves, you will need the following materials and a set of tools:

the glue must be chosen in favor of a high-quality mixture, so that the material that will be laid on it holds for a long time and holds tightly;
grout is needed for seams, and its color must match the created coating;
container for preparing glue;
a notched trowel, necessary to ensure uniform distribution of glue over all elements, because of this there will never be an excess or deficiency;
a rag to remove excess glue
grinder, tile cutter, and other tools used for cutting material;
primer;
building level;
waterproofing;
construction mixer;
slats made of metal or wood;
corundum block for turning edges;
if you plan to make a threshold in the bathroom, then buy the necessary element;
Thanks to the tile crosses and their sizes, you can make even, uniform and beautiful seams.

The laid tiles are fixed to an adhesive base. Based on the type of tile used and the type of base: flexible, standard or a special adhesive mixture. According to the instructions, the powdered composition must be diluted with water. As a result, the glue should not be very thick or very liquid. Using a notched trowel, glue is applied to the surface.

In order to find out how much material is required, you need to calculate everything in advance. Thus, laying out the coating will be quite easy, and during this time there will be no problems or stoppages.

Preparing the base for tiles

The main rule for installing tiles on a bathroom wall or floor is surface preparation. The base on which the tiles will be installed must be level. The procedure for preparing walls and floors is as follows:

Using a small crowbar, hammer or chisel, remove the old coating.
Using a plumb line with a weight, you need to check the evenness of the walls.
If this is necessary, you need to level the walls using moisture-resistant drywall or plaster.
Prime the surface using a compound for rooms with high level humidity.

Relative to the floor, its surface can be leveled using a laser or water level. If there are cracks, they must be repaired immediately. If a slope, hole, or other small defects are detected, it is necessary to redo cement-sand screed and put in advance a layer of waterproofing material.

Stages of the tile laying process

Laying ceramic tiles in the bathroom can be done using two methods:

starting from the floor;
starting from the walls.

In the latter option, it is necessary to leave a gap for the floor covering.

You should start laying the tiles from the wall located opposite the front door.

In the case where the bathtub is installed close to the wall, installation must begin above the edge of the bathtub. In order to lay the tiles evenly and correctly, you must first draw a reference line on one wall and then along the entire perimeter. After that, slats are mounted along it, which must be screwed to the wall, thanks to them the tile will not slide.

In the case when the tiles need to be laid behind the bathtub, they begin to be laid from the second row from the floor, skipping the first. How many rows are needed must be calculated in advance, and the width of the seams must be taken into account.

Before installing the tiles, they are laid out along the walls. In the case when last tile will need to be cut, the wall is divided in half and the first row from the center line begins to be laid. In such a situation, the finish will be more symmetrical.

Once the corner is reached, tiles must be cut with a tile cutter. After that, all trim must be laid to the ceiling on both sides of the wall. To ensure proper adherence to the seams, crosses are installed between adjacent tiles.

The process is similar for all walls. The bottom row is laid last.

To ensure that the tiles look good on the floor after installation, it is recommended to start laying them from the center of the room. But you need to remember that thin edges should not be laid along the walls; you need to calculate everything in advance. During installation floor tiles crosses are used large sizes than for walls.

Grouting and cleaning

The last step in creating the perfect bathroom is stripping and cleaning. After the tiles on the floor and walls have completely dried, you need to remove the crosses and work on the seams. To process them you will need grouting. This mixture is intended not only to perform decorative functions, but also to protect the tiles from moisture. The solution of this mixture should be made in small portions as needed.

When the seams are slightly wider than usual, sand must be added to the grout. In addition, to make the mixture more elastic, latex can be added to it, but in this case the mixture is not diluted.

The grout is applied using a rubber spatula, brush or cloth, spreading evenly with a rubber trowel. This device must be held at an angle and pulled diagonally in order to completely fill the seams with putty. The mixture dries within a couple of minutes.

After the jointing is completed, they begin to work on the surface. At this stage you will need a foam sponge and warm water. To prevent the grout from abrading, the tiles should not be washed parallel to the seams. After the surface is washed, it can be wiped with microfiber.

To protect against moisture, the joints are treated with sealant. As a rule, this operation is performed 3-4 weeks after installation of the tiles.

The cost of the services of professional tilers is not always affordable, so many owners try to lay tiles in the bathroom with their own hands. Step-by-step instructions and a video will tell you how to properly finish and avoid mistakes.

To successfully complete all work from surface preparation to grouting you will need:

tape measure, level, chalk;
tile cutter or grinder;
notched spatula;
drill with mixer attachment;
brush;
plastic crosses or matches;
grout trowel;
foam sponge;
microfiber cloth;
putty;
tile adhesive;
waterproofing composition;
grout;
polymer film and tape.

To carry out tile laying work you will need a number of tools

To decorate the walls and floors in the bathroom, traditionally used tiles that are resistant to high humidity. Before purchasing, you should measure the floor area, as well as the height and width of each wall separately, to calculate the coverage area.

Our special one will make it easy to calculate the required number of square meters of material required for finishing. In addition, you should take into account the number linear meters borders and the number of decorative elements, if they will be used.

Another important point One thing you should pay attention to before purchasing is the shape of the tile. If the installation is done by hand, it is better to opt for products in the form of a square or rectangle, since they will be much easier to install for a non-professional than tiles with a polygonal complex shape.

Before purchasing tiles and starting work, check the dimensions of your bathroom and make calculations

There are many options for laying tiles (), the most common of them are the rectangular (traditional) and diagonal method. For beginners, it is better to choose the first option.

There is also another important point that you should pay attention to in advance: the presence of “ “. The “warm floor” is laid directly on the screed before applying tile adhesive and, accordingly, before laying the tiles.

Surface preparation

Sequence of wall decoration

Finishing always begins with laying tiles on the walls. It does not matter where exactly the installation itself will begin: from a corner, from the floor or from the bathtub.

A level line is drawn - a reference point for even rows of tiles. The contour is drawn strictly horizontally with chalk, going around the entire perimeter of the bathroom, while a laser or hydraulic level is used for marking.
Marking the wall for tiles
The adhesive composition is being prepared - the powder must be diluted according to the instructions so that the consistency is not too liquid, but not too thick. It is most convenient to stir the composition using a drill with a special whisk attachment. For beginners without experience, you can skip mixing the adhesive and use a special mastic on the walls.
Preparing tile adhesive
Tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a wide notched trowel.
The tiles are laid along a previously drawn line - the standard tile layout involves laying from the second row from the floor, while the very first row is skipped at this stage (you can lay it along the wall without mortar).
Crosses or matches are placed between the tiles so that the distance between the rows and adjacent tiles is the same. For laying in difficult places, the tiles are cut with a grinder or tile cutter; the corners can be carefully broken off with pliers.
Laying tiles according to markings

Attention! Laying should be done carefully, without pressing the tiles against the wall too much to prevent them from cracking.

If the tile is very small size, it is better to start laying not from the corner, but from the middle of the wall. This will leave an equal amount of space at the edges, which means it will be easier to fit the edge tiles, because you won’t have to cut very thin strips. It is recommended to leave spaces for sockets and switches empty in case the electrical wiring moves a couple of centimeters, so that you do not have to dismantle and then install new tiles in these places.

Make sure the seams stay straight
After the masonry has strengthened a little, the protruding excess is removed adhesive composition using a sponge. Upon completion of all the above work, when the tile is completely dry, that is, in about a day, it is performed). The crosses are removed, and the seams are rubbed with a special moisture-resistant grout, which is matched to the color of the tile, using a trowel with a rubber base. The remaining putty is thoroughly and at the same time very carefully washed off with a damp sponge.
Grouting joints

Features of laying floor tiles

Before laying, the surface must be leveled using concrete screed or leveling mixtures, having previously laid a layer of waterproofing. After complete drying, the dew floor must be carefully primed and marked.

Advice. To obtain perfectly straight lines, you can use two or more laser levels.

In general, the sequence of work is generally similar to laying tiles on walls, with the difference that laying floor tiles usually starts from the middle of the room to avoid a lot of trimming around the edges.

Attention! Laying tiles on the floor is carried out from the wall opposite to the front door.

The adhesive mixture for floor tiles is most often flexible, standard or special - the appropriate option is selected taking into account the material of the selected tile and the type of base.

Before laying tiles, the floor surface must be leveled and debris must be removed.

The flexible mixture is recommended for use on fiberboard and chipboard sheets, on wooden floors, as well as on concrete, iron and other bases. However, you should not apply the entire mixture to the floor surface at once so that it does not dry out.

Another important point: to grout all the formed seams between floor tiles putty with added sand should be used, while for jointing small joints between tiles on the walls you will need putty that does not contain sand.

Applying tile adhesive to the floor

Conclusion

By following the instructions given, it is quite possible to finish finishing the bathroom on your own, that is, without the help of a professional tiler. The main thing is not to disrupt the sequence of work, be extremely careful, and meticulously measure the horizontal and vertical positions of all sequentially laid rows of tiles.

How to lay tiles with your own hands: video

Laying tiles in the bathroom: photo

The main type of flooring and wall finishing material for wet rooms (bathrooms and kitchens) is ceramic tiles or tiles. In our article we will tell you how to lay tiles, how the surface is prepared, and find out what tools are needed for the job.

According to experts, tiles should be laid on a previously leveled base. You can remove the old coating in several ways, the use of which depends on the type of finishing material. If the plaster on the wall is fixed using wooden shingles, then this layer must be completely removed, and then the mortar must be leveled along the previously leveled beacons.

In the case when the finishing is made of tiles, such products are removed completely, after which the surface is cleaned of glue residues. The preliminary stage of work is cleaning the seams and wetting the material. Approximately two or three hours after this, you can begin dismantling work. The tile needs to be lightly hooked with a chisel, while the tool is recessed into the mortar joint after several blows of the hammer. All coating elements are removed in this way.

If the wall surface has been pre-treated with paint, then this layer must be removed before plastering. Dismantling of paint and varnish products is carried out using grinding disc, which is installed on the angle grinder. Whitewash is removed from the wall using a special scraper or metal spatula. The old wallpaper is completely removed from the wall, after which the base is cleaned of any glue residue.

After dismantling the old coating, the base is cleaned with sandpaper and polished. Next, accumulated construction debris is removed from the surface (a soft, damp cloth is usually used for this purpose). To improve the adhesion of the tiles to the base, use a primer. This composition is applied using a paint brush or roller; it not only improves adhesion, but also prevents the appearance of mold on the wall.

After dismantling old decoration Damage to the base layer must be assessed. The surface may contain bulges and small dimples, cracks and chips, roughness, as well as slopes directed in different directions. The technology for leveling the surface will depend on the nature of the damage. So, for height differences of up to 6 centimeters, plaster is used on bases of cement-sand mortar. When these indicators increase, it is recommended to use plasterboards.

First, let's look at the technology for leveling the base using plaster. First, you need to clean and degrease the base layer and only then begin the main work. If the height differences are within 1 centimeter, then there is no need for leveling, since the adhesive mixture will completely cover this gap. If there are significant differences in the upper and lower parts of the wall, a fishing line or cord is pulled along which the beacons will be installed.

Next, prepare a cement-sand mortar and apply it in the spaces between the beacons. The mixture can be spread using a spatula or a special plaster ladle. Next, the solution is leveled with the rule and waited until it dries. After this, the surface of the wall in the bathroom is treated with an antiseptic and primer.

The second leveling method is to use drywall sheets. Installation of such products must be carried out from the bottom up. Depending on the type of base, sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard can be fixed using gypsum mortar or with screws that are screwed into a pre-prepared frame made of metal profile. When all the products are installed, the joints are sealed with putty, after which the coating is treated with a primer.

Particular difficulties with surface preparation arise when laying tiles on a wooden floor. First, the base must be treated with a special primer in several layers. Then apply plaster mesh and level the base layer with a solution. Use wood covering Experts do not recommend it for laying tiles. This is due to the fact that such material under layers of glue and tiles loses the ability to breathe. In the future, fungus will appear on the wood, which will significantly shorten its service life.

Required tools and materials

First you need to choose the right ceramic tiles hardware store. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the product’s resistance to the influence of humidity (materials of class 1 or 2 are suitable for the bathroom). The strength of the tile also matters, in in this case the most durable class 5 products are required. The calculation of tiles is carried out based on the area of the walls or floor plus 10-20% for reserve.

Before carrying out renovation work With your own hands you need to prepare the following materials and construction tools:

ceramic of the selected color and texture;
plastic crosses to maintain the same size of seams;
tile adhesive;
plastic film or mastic for waterproofing the floor;
mixture for preliminary leveling of the base;
rule;
building level;
sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard;
metal profile and screws;
screwdriver;
putty for final leveling of walls;
primer;
tile cutter;
Bulgarian;
electric drill;
rubber hammer;
metal beacons;
instruments for measurement and control (plumb line, tape measure, level).

After preparing all the necessary building materials and tools, mix the adhesive mixture and begin the main work.

Tile adhesive

When choosing adhesive for the floor or for installing ceramic tiles on the walls of the bathroom, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

Type of base. This could be sheets of drywall, old tiles or a plastered surface.
The type of tile, as well as the water-absorbing properties of the product. The amount of solution that the tile can absorb will depend on these parameters.
Thickness and flatness of an individual product. The thickness of the applied glue also depends on these characteristics.
Material consumption. This parameter depends on the thickness of the layer, as well as on the quality of the wall alignment. On average, 5 kilograms of solution are used per 1 m2 of usable area, but these figures may change in one direction or another.

After taking into account all the requirements, you can go to the store to purchase glue. Considered construction material can be supplied to the market as a ready-to-use solution or dry mixture. To install a coating in the bathroom, it is recommended to purchase dry building mixtures based on cement. You can prepare such a solution according to the instructions on the package.

The adhesive mixture hardens quickly, so it is necessary to prepare such a solution per square meter of usable area. Despite the fact that the basic proportions of the components are indicated on the packaging, water is poured into the container to approximately 65% of the indicated volume, then the dry mixture is added. Next, the components are mixed until a homogeneous consistency and liquid is further added.

It is unlikely that you will be able to mix a high-quality solution by hand.. For this purpose, an electric drill with a special attachment or mixer is usually used. After finishing the mixing process, the resulting mass should stand for 20 minutes. After this, the mixture is placed on a spatula and turned over so that it is on the instrument. If the glue begins to slip, then add a little more dry powder to the base composition and mix.

Laying tiles with your own hands

First, let's get acquainted with the technology of laying tiles on the floor. In this case, work must begin from the corner part of the bathroom, and from the corner that is constantly in front of the visitor’s eyes (this requirement also applies to installing the material on the surface of the walls). Entire products must be installed in this location. Ceramic products are mounted on a pre-leveled surface. Depending on, immediately decide and arrange the tiles by numbers so as not to get confused in the future.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the design of the future floor covering. To do this, we lay out a longitudinal and transverse row of products on the surface of the base, observing the thickness of the seams (plastic crosses can be installed). Using traditional way laying work begins from the middle of the room for large premises or from the second row (for a small bath).

If the diagonal laying method is used to install the floor covering, then at the initial stage of work it is necessary to mark the frieze and only after that they begin to install whole tiles, and then cut the products into the necessary pieces. When the first row is laid, the floor plane is controlled using building level. Cut tiles to the required size or shape products the required form Can different ways: using a regular glass cutter (used for small-thick wall tiles), using a grinder with a special circle or a tile cutter.

Particular attention is paid to joining elements. Plastic wedges or corners are installed at the locations of the seams. During installation, seams in perpendicular directions must match. Also, watch out for the protrusion of the corners of the tile; to avoid the appearance of unevenness, the material is seated slightly lower than the required level.

At the initial stage of work, lighthouse tiles are laid at the highest points of the base. Next, apply the adhesive mixture at the place where the tiles are attached and level the solution with a notched trowel. The ceramic product is installed in the required place, adjusting its position using a rubber hammer. Plastic crosses are installed in the spaces between the tiles. Next, you need to check the horizontalness of the floor covering and you can continue further installation.

Ceramic tiles are laid on the wall surface using a similar algorithm. In this case, the main work begins from the wall, which is clearly visible to the visitor, that is, to the surface opposite to entrance doors. There are several ways to lay tiles on the wall:

classic butt-to-butt version;
diagonally to the surface;
tile arrangement in a checkerboard pattern.

The first installation method is considered the simplest. In this case, it is necessary to measure the size of the products, and also monitor the alignment of the seams. Work begins from the bottom of the wall, the prepared solution is spread over the surface of the wall using a notched trowel, then the tiles are installed and lightly tapped. The position of each product and the whole row is checked using a building level. Crosses are installed on the edges of the tiles; they are used to regulate the thickness of the seams.

When using the staggered laying method, products are combined in adjacent rows. In this case, the central part of the tiles of the lower row is located under the seam of the tiles located in the upper row. The process of carrying out such work is somewhat simplified, because the master does not have to ensure that the size of the material matches, the main thing is to ensure the alignment of the vertical seams.

And one more method, laying tiles diagonally is most often used in large bathtubs. This method is considered one of the most difficult, so it is used only by professionals. The price per square meter of installed coverage is quite high. When using this method, you must ensure that the seams are perpendicular, as well as the correct fit of the tiles to the corner part of the wall.

Grouting joints

According to experts, it is quite feasible. After this procedure, the coating takes on a neat, finished appearance. The grout material prevents the appearance of mold and further destruction of the tile. For people who have no experience in handling grout, it is recommended to choose quick-drying mixtures to fill their hands. In the future, grouting the seams will go much faster.

To carry out the work efficiently, you will need a tool such as a container for mixing the solution, a rubber spatula, a standard paint brush and a sharp knife for cleaning the seams from dirt, as well as a damp cloth and several sponges. When using aggressive mixtures, it is necessary to protect your hands using rubber gloves.

At the initial stage of work, take a knife and clean the cracks from glue residues. After this, begin preparing the grout solution. To do this, pour a little water into a clean container. room temperature and add the dry mixture. The grout must be prepared in small portions so that it does not harden.

At the next stage of work, the mortar joints are moistened with water; for this purpose, they are usually used paint brush. After this, they begin to apply the mixture, and the solution is placed into the seams using a flexible spatula in the direction perpendicular to the gap. The mixture must be applied quickly, but with special care, so that the material can fill the entire space. During the processing process, grout residues are removed with a spatula.

At the final stage of work, when the mixture is completely dry, wipe the surface of the wall with a cloth. The purpose of this operation is to remove residual solution. The soft cloth should be moved in a transverse direction so as not to squeeze the mixture out of the seam. The sponge is used at the final stage of work; it is used to smooth out seams and give them a beautiful appearance.

Cost of a tile laying technician

For many property owners, the question of the cost of laying tiles on the floor or walls of the bathroom remains relevant. The fact is that not every person can do such work with their own hands, so many users resort to the help of specialists. The cost of laying ceramic tiles will depend on many factors, such as the need to level the base (with plaster or drywall).

In general, for each square meter of finished surface you will have to pay from 400 to 550 rubles. A lot depends on the organization or private entrepreneur who carried out the repair work.

For many years, ceramic tiles have been the most popular material for the bathroom. It is the tiled system that has the greatest advantages over cladding made from other materials.

Tile tiles in the bathroom are laid both on the walls and on the floor.

Preparing the premises

Laying tiles on the walls of a room is somewhat different from laying tiles around a bathtub, but the beginning is the same - measuring the surface and calculating the required amount of all materials. If you intend to lay products of the same color and without decorative elements, you need to calculate the required amount of material in square meters based on the total area of the future cladding. You need to purchase approximately 5-7% more than the estimated quantity (marriage and battle). Decorative elements are counted as pieces, and borders as linear meters.

You need to purchase after determining the required amount of material and the decorative and finishing elements. By including several patterned tiles or tiles of a different shade into the overall canvas, you can create an original and expressive pattern on the bathroom walls.

Today, the finishing materials market offers a wide range of ceramic tiles. Tile is most suitable for the bathroom. Choose better product famous brands, because savings can very quickly turn into additional repair costs.

For the floor in the bathroom you need to choose the highest strength class - fifth; for walls, class 1-2 is quite suitable. Based on the degree of moisture absorption, choose the one with the highest moisture resistance rating. For the floor, it is better to buy elements with a relief pattern, because... There is a risk of slipping on smooth surfaces.

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Installation on walls

Before laying tiles around the bathtub, it is necessary to prepare the room and all surfaces for laying. The bathtub, if it is not planned to be changed, should be closed plastic film, and wrap all pipes, tubes and taps with thick paper or cardboard. Clear the walls of old tiles, plasters and paints. Laying tiles is easier and more reliable on concrete walls.

For more reliable adhesion of the adhesive composition to the wall surface, it must be carefully primed. A special primer should be used for rooms with high humidity.

The adhesive is sold at a building materials store. It must be prepared strictly following the attached instructions. However, experienced tilers recommend mixing Ceresit 17 glue with cement in a 3:1 ratio. This composition is proposed as optimal, because pure “Ceresit 17” attaches too rigidly and can break the tile. It is important to stir the adhesive until it reaches the consistency of thick sour cream. For mixing, you should use a drill with a special attachment.

Before starting, you need to outline the level lines, i.e. horizontal lines that run along all the walls of the room. This line is drawn using any level, not by eye.

Needed from below. First, it is worth laying out one row of tiles without glue, so that you do not have to trim the edges at the joints. And if it is necessary to cut off part of the tile at the joining point, then it is better to make the cut at the beginning of the row so that it falls on the doorway. In this way, the tiles will save money and the finish will look more attractive. Now you can apply the glue. It is more convenient to apply the adhesive mass on the wall (not on the tiles).

It is more rational to do the installation in small areas, about 4-6 tiles in height. In order for the tiles to lay evenly, it is necessary to mark the laying lines with chalk and first use a plumb line to mark the vertical row. The accuracy of laying all subsequent rows depends on how accurately the first row is laid out.

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Apply the glue to the wall with a notched plastic spatula and level it well so that no air bubbles appear in the mixture. The tile is applied and pressed by hand with slight movement back and forth. Exposed glue must be removed immediately with a wooden stick or plastic spatula. This is how the entire first row is laid, now you need to let it dry (about a day). And only after this can you complete the installation.

To maintain the gap between the tiles, special plastic crosses are used.

The gap between the tiles should be 3-4 mm.

It should be noted that the gap carries not only a decorative load, but is also expansion joint. The gap size should be adjusted using special plastic crosses. They are sold complete with tiles or separately at a hardware store.

If there are protruding pipes, switches, sockets or other protruding pipes on the walls difficult places, then the tiles must be cut to size before laying. You can cut the tiles across the entire width using a tile cutter or grinder; the shaped holes must be drilled. It is better if the hole is located at the junction of two tiles - such holes can be made using simple pliers, biting off in small pieces.

Grouting can only begin after the glue has completely dried. For joints, grout without sand is used, but it is recommended to add latex or undiluted latex milk. You need to prepare the grout in the amount necessary for production at a time; you cannot store the prepared mass.

Apply the grout with a rubber trowel onto the surface of the tile. In this case, the trowel must be held at an angle and movements made diagonally so that the grout more completely fills the gap between the tiles. Then the surface needs to be cleaned warm water using a sponge. The sponge should be wrung out well and the surface should be wiped at an angle to the seams; you should not rub along the seams - some of the grout may wash off.

No earlier than after 3 weeks, the seams should be treated with sealant. Before this, it is necessary to prevent water from entering the lined surface.

If you plan to cover the bathtub with a tile screen, you must first decide how to lay the tiles. One option is to make a base from a moisture-resistant material (foam plastic, foam concrete or aerated concrete elements) and then glue the products onto it. The second option is to buy a ready-made screen, insert OSB instead of the existing panel and lay it on it. The third option is to choose a screen panel in the same color and style as the bathroom trim and call it a day.