Storm drainage in a private house can be installed by any home craftsman with his own hands. This system is designed for efficient removal of melt water and atmospheric precipitation. Approximately 100 cubic meters of water falls on the roof of a house, the area of which is 200 square meters, during the year. On the site this volume is even greater. Puddles can cause some inconvenience, but this can be called a trifle when compared with the troubles that the accumulation of a large amount of liquid brings.
The need for arrangement
Do-it-yourself storm drainage in a private house, the construction of which is described below, prevents the absorption of water by the soil, which could cause irreparable damage to the house, for example, affecting the subsidence of the foundation. If water accumulates in large quantities on the site, it will destroy landscape design, since plants may die in wet soil.
Planning
If you are installing a private house with your own hands, then you will have to design this system, which consists of filters, trays and pipes installed at a slope towards the sewer. The liquid will flow from the roof through the gutters, entering and then into the collector. Discharge pipes can be laid underground or on the surface. Water can be collected in two ways: a point water intake or a linear one.
In order to drain water from the roof, the most commonly used are point drains, which consist of plastic funnels connected by underground drainage pipes. The system is equipped with filters that clean it of leaves, grass and other debris. When designing, it is important to take into account that the installation of the underground part of the sewer system should be carried out at a level where the soil does not freeze. If this is not possible, the pipes should be insulated, for which polystyrene foam is most often used. Due to the presence of thermal insulation, the depth of the trench can be reduced to 60 centimeters. When determining the diameter of the pipes, it is necessary to take into account the annual precipitation rate in the area and the area of the site. Most often, experts use pipes with a diameter of 110 millimeters. If the sewerage system will run in places where heaving soil predominates, you can build a sand cushion for the collectors. This will prevent soil subsidence.
At backfill It is necessary to compact the soil layer by layer, and the angle of inclination of the sewer pipes should be 1 centimeter per meter of pipeline. When installing a storm drain in a private house with your own hands, you should not connect the pipes at right angles, as this can cause clogging of the sewer and accumulation of debris.
Design: determining the depth of laying channels
During installation, channels, pipes and trays are laid to the depth recommended for a particular region. The exact value should be clarified by contacting the construction organization. Thus, on average, rainwater drains are laid to a depth of 0.3 meters, this applies to the case when the diameter of the pipeline does not exceed 50 centimeters, this parameter also applies to open trays. When choosing pipes and trays with larger dimensions, the depth should be 0.7 meters. If you are installing a storm drain in a private house yourself, then it is important to take into account one important point, which consists of laying the system above the drainage, if there is one on the site.
Exact slope standards
If you purchased pipes with a diameter of 150 millimeters, then the slope should be 0.008 millimeters per meter. When the section is increased to 200 millimeters, the slope should be 0.007 millimeters. Depending on the conditions of the territory, the slopes of the pipes may vary. The maximum slope is 0.02 millimeters for the channel and receiver connection areas. This is due to the fact that in this place an increase in the gravity flow rate of the liquid is required.
In front of the sand catchers, the flow speed must be slowed down to allow suspended particles to settle. Therefore, the angle of inclination in these places should be the smallest. Every home craftsman can arrange it in a private home with his own hands. In this case, planning can be done independently. At this stage, it is important to take into account that devices for collecting liquid in envelope-type systems must be installed at intersections of slopes. In this case, we are talking about structures that are equipped with rain inlets-funnels.
Installation
The installation of storm drains can be compared to pipeline systems. But if the house is not equipped with gutters, you should start working on installing them. It is necessary to make holes in the ceilings for rainwater inlets, and after installation is completed and they are fixed to bitumen mastic the junction points are well sealed. At the next stage, the master can begin installing drains and waste pipes. Each element is attached to the structure using clamps. Next, trays are installed if we are talking about a linear system, or outlet pipes if it was decided to implement a point scheme.
Work on the underground part
Do-it-yourself storm drainage in a private house, the slope of which was mentioned above, is at the next stage equipped taking into account the standards in a certain region. According to calculations, it is necessary to dig a trench, and if the pipeline is insulated, then a shell of geotextile and crushed stone is formed around it. You can lay a cushion of sand, compacting the bottom well. Large stones must be removed, and the resulting holes must be filled with soil. Standard thickness sand cushion should be 20 centimeters.
To install the collector tank, a pit is formed, and a plastic container can be used as a collector. If you wish, you can make a collector well with your own hands by pouring concrete into pre-arranged formwork. Next, the pipes are laid.
A do-it-yourself storm drain in a private house, the construction of which can be done in several stages, must contain inspection wells if the straight branches are more than 10 meters long. Sand traps must be installed at the junction points between the pipeline and the collectors. Adaptations and devices are connected into a single circuit, the connecting points are well sealed.
Final works
Due to the fact that the cost of work by specialists is quite high, home craftsmen install storm drains in a private house with their own hands. You should carry out tests at the final stage, this will allow you to understand whether there are any weaknesses in the system. Before backfilling, tests are carried out by pouring water into water intakes. Next, the system is filled with soil, and the pallets, trays and gutters are equipped with gratings. If your house has a pitched roofing system that does not have gutters on all sides, you should install gutters with gratings in the required places, including these elements in the general network. Livnevka country house can be included in its own sewer system, since it does not contain dangerous components that require fine cleaning.
Conclusion
You will be able to save money if you install a storm drain in a private house with your own hands. The construction of systems of this type should not involve integration with drainage. In this case, the structures will not work effectively. The storm drain must function separately; if it overflows, it can cause the foundation to be washed away, which will lead to devastating consequences. To ensure the correct slope, a tracing wire should be used. Do-it-yourself storm drainage in a private house, the installation rules of which are described in the article, will be installed in several stages, one of which involves securing the trays, which can be done using cement mortar.
Puddles that appear after rain are a fairly common phenomenon, but few people think that for owners of private houses it is quite dangerous, since it can lead to flooding of the building and destruction of its supports.
To avoid unpleasant consequences, experts recommend installing storm drainage systems. How to do this will be discussed in this article.
Features and purpose
Stormwater or, as it is often called, rainwater drainage is a system water pipes, as well as filters and various devices used to effectively remove excess moisture from local area. This is the main task of storm drainage, but the range of functions is not limited to drainage:
- With the help of a storm system, you can organize watering of the garden and vegetable garden personal plot, the positive effect of melt water on the growth and development of plants is known to every summer resident;
- increasing the durability of the building and improving the strength and strength of its supports - this is due to the fact that rainwater drainage eliminates excessive flooding of the foundation, and in addition, prevents the development of fungus and mold;
- high-quality filtration of water and purification from sand and other types of impurities;
- maintaining the integrity of paving slabs and asphalt coatings, which are often destroyed under the influence of pounding jets of water;
- minimizing the risk of water flowing into the base;
- complete elimination of the formation of puddles and dirt on the site after rain.
Components of storm drainage
The installation of rainwater drainage in a private house and country house requires the presence of certain components in its structure.
Well
In previous years, it was believed that it must certainly be large, but modern industry offers wells of a wide variety of volumes, the choice of which is determined by the dimensions of the roof, the size of the site and the average amount of precipitation in a particular region. As a rule, wells are made of concrete rings, and the lower ring must be equipped with a bottom - this is what distinguishes simple wells from rain storms.
Plastic wells can also be used to create an effective rainwater drainage system. They are buried to the required depth, placed on a concrete pad and chained with strong chains to prevent floating.
Plastic containers The good thing is that they are completely sealed, unlike structures assembled from rings.
Hatch over the well
Hatches can be made of various materials - rubber, plastic or metal; the choice here depends only on the personal preferences of the homeowner. Regardless of what composition is used, the well must be dug in such a way that the upper edge of its lid is 15-20 cm below the soil surface.
When installing a hatch, a brick neck is often laid out; this allows you to plant a lawn or flowers on top so that the area does not stand out from the rest of the plantings.
However, many people purchase a ready-made cover with a hatch. In this case, the soil is covered with a thinner layer - only 4-5 cm, however, the lawn will differ in density from other areas, drawing attention to what is located underneath it. Most often, hatches are produced in black. However, you can also find red and yellow versions on sale.
Point storm water inlets
These are small-sized tanks that are mounted in places where precipitation accumulates the most, for example, under drainpipes and in the lowest areas of the yard. They are made of concrete or plastic, and the former are often used for arranging storm sewer deep type. In this case, they are mounted on top of each other, achieving the required height. However, more recently, built-on rainwater inlets made of plastic have appeared on sale.
Sand traps
These are devices that are used to accumulate settling sand and other heavy inclusions. Most often they are made of plastic, they are characterized by low cost, but at the same time they exhibit exceptionally high performance characteristics. Typically, sand traps are installed at a certain distance from each other.
Such devices require periodic cleaning; this is much easier and faster than cleaning the entire drainage system.
Lattices
Grates are installed to ensure that the water drains out as much as possible. The following grating options are available:
- cast iron– reliable and durable products, but the paint on them lasts no more than 3 years, significantly reducing the overall aesthetics of the structure;
- steel – cheap option, but the lowest quality - steel is prone to corrosion, so even after 1-2 years such gratings begin to rust;
- aluminum– not used here pure metal, and its alloys, such options are the most preferable because they are distinguished by their strength and attractive design, but their cost is also quite high.
Pipes
Not a single storm drain is complete without pipes; as a rule, products made of red-colored polyethylene are used. They have smooth walls, which significantly improves their throughput. However, you can choose cast iron or asbestos options; they can also work uninterruptedly for a long time, providing effective drainage.
The diameter of the pipes largely depends on the overall branching of the system, but we must keep in mind that it should not be less than 15 cm, optimally if the diameter is larger.
Inspection wells
These are small-sized wells made of plastic or concrete; they are installed in cases where the pipeline is quite long or has numerous branches. They are used to clear pipes if blockages occur.
It should be noted that not every rainwater drain necessarily contains all of these components, but they can be used to build an effective system of any level of complexity.
Types of storm drainage
There are several main types of storm sewers installed in private homes.
Open
This is a fairly simple system that you can set up even on your own. It consists of a network of surface gutters into which water flows through drainpipes, and from there it flows into special tanks or the general sewer system.
Gutters are made of metal, plastic or concrete; they are covered with gratings on top, which protect them from large debris, and in addition, serve a decorative function.
Such a system in a private home can have a fairly large coverage; it collects excess moisture from sidewalks, garden paths and other types of areas.
Closed
This type of stormwater drainage is also called point drainage; in this case, all water intakes are located underground. The mechanism of their action is simple: water, flowing through pipes from the roofs, enters special rainwater inlets, and then moves through them into underground channels, from where it is discharged outside the site.
Mixed
This system involves the simultaneous use of open and closed elements; this method is used when it is necessary to build an effective drainage system on a limited budget.
Types of drainage
Quite often, cottages and private houses are equipped with several drainage options: sewer, drainage and storm water. As a rule, they are located close to each other around the site and run parallel.
Quite often, site owners have a natural desire to save money and combine stormwater with elements of other types of drainage, for example, use a ready-made well. However, this should not be done, since during heavy rain the liquid enters the well quite quickly, the average flow rate is 10 cubic meters per hour.
In this case, the well may overflow, and if it is combined with a sewer, then water will begin to flow into the sewer pipes. In this case, of course, it will not be able to rise above the ground level, however, you will not be able to lower anything either, since everything will be in the plumbing. In addition, after the water level drops, large and small debris will remain inside the system, which can significantly impair the effective operation of the entire drain system, and it will have to be cleaned regularly, which, you see, is not the most pleasant task.
The situation is much worse if the discharge goes into a drainage well. If, during a prolonged downpour, moisture enters the drainage system under high pressure, then as the pipes fill, it simply falls under the foundation and begins to wash it away. There is no need to talk about the consequences; there are other troubles, which include silting of the drainage pipeline.
It is impossible to clean such pipes; they must be completely replaced.
The conclusion can be made very simple: the storm drain in the house must have its own well, and quite a spacious one at that. However, if not far from the site there is access to a pond, lake or river, then the construction of a well can be neglected.
Design and preparation
When it comes to the drainage system, it is very important to first draw up a drawing, plans and design diagrams, otherwise it will just be “money down the drain”. If the system does not work effectively, then it is not worth undertaking its arrangement, and if the storm drain is too powerful, then it will “eat up” too much money.
In order to make calculations as accurately as possible and compile effective project, the following data is required:
- the average amount of precipitation in a given area (they can be found in SNiP 2.04.03-85);
- frequency of precipitation;
- snow cover size;
- drainage area;
- roof area;
- physical and mechanical soil parameters;
- location of underground utilities;
- calculated wastewater volumes.
Q– this is the volume of moisture that the system must remove;
q20– precipitation intensity (it is different for each area);
F– surface area from which water is planned to be discharged;
TO– correction factor, which depends on the material of the site covering, it is:
- for crushed stone – 0.4;
- for concrete sites 0 0.85;
- for asphalt – 0.95;
- for roofs – 1.0.
The obtained value is correlated with SNiPs and the diameter of the pipeline, which is necessary for optimal drainage, is determined.
Trays and pipes are dug in at the depth at which they are standard in each area; their exact value can be found out from construction companies or from neighbors who have already installed a storm drain on their site. As a rule, in central Russia the laying depth is 0.3 meters if the pipeline diameter does not exceed 50 cm. Trays and pipes larger size buried to a depth of 70 cm.
Often the high cost of excavation work leads to the fact that customers ask not to go very deep into the ground - and in general this is quite justified, since there is no point in covering the pipes at too great a distance. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection tanks below the seasonal freezing level, as required by existing GOSTs. They can be placed higher, but pre-insulated insulating material, for example, geotextiles.
Reducing the depth level quite significantly reduces the cost of installation work.
But the requirements regulating minimum slope storm drains should not be neglected. GOST establishes the following standards:
- for pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, the angle of inclination should be 0.008 mm/m;
- for pipes with a cross section of 20 cm – 0.007 mm/m.
The angle of inclination may vary depending on the characteristics of the site. Thus, at the point where the pipe is connected to the storm water inlet, it is necessary to increase the flow rate of gravity-flowing water, so the maximum permissible angle should be formed at 0.02 mm/m.
But in front of sand traps, the flow speed should, on the contrary, decrease, otherwise suspended particles will not be able to settle, so the angle of inclination should be minimal.
Construction and installation
The storm drainage system is equipped using its own technology; its installation is in many ways similar to the principle of laying conventional sewer pipelines, however, if there are no drains in the house, then installation should begin with them.
Construction of the roof part
It is necessary to make special holes in the roof slabs that will be used for rainwater inlets. After all devices are installed and secured with bitumen mastic, the joints and junctions should be treated with sealant. Next, sewer pipes and risers are installed, which are fixed to the facade of a private house using clamps.
If an open system is being constructed, then trays should be installed, and if the future stormwater drainage will be point-based, then drainage pipes will need to be installed.
Ground part
In accordance with the planned plans, which are drawn up taking into account all existing angles of inclination of the terrain and the depth of canals accepted in each specific region, it is necessary to dig a trench. Let's consider the sequence of actions.
- The bottom of the dug trench must be thoroughly compacted, all stones encountered during excavation must be removed, and the holes formed after them must be filled with soil.
- The bottom of the trench is covered with sand; as a rule, the thickness of the sand cushion is approximately 20 cm.
- A pit is dug to install a collector well. For the collector itself, you can purchase a ready-made plastic container, but you can also build it yourself - to do this you need to install formwork and fill it with concrete solution.
- Pipes are attached to ditches, compacted and reinforced with sand cushions, and connected to each other using fittings.
- It is necessary to include inspection wells in storm drain branches with a total length of more than 10 meters, and sand traps must be installed at the junction of the receivers and the pipeline. All these devices must be connected into a common circuit, and the joints must be sealed.
- Before the final filling of the trench, it is necessary to test the system for strength; for this, water is poured into the water intake; if the pipes leak, then it is necessary to identify and eliminate the leak.
- If no weak points are found in the pipeline, then it is necessary to carefully fill the trench with soil, and equip all gutters and trays with cast iron and plastic gratings.
Installation open system, in general, does not pose any problems, since water inlet trays can be installed easier and faster. They are sold as independent elements, which are quite simply assembled into a single chain using a thin nylon cord, which forms the required drainage angle.
Timely installation of storm drainage will significantly extend the life of building structures, eliminate the occurrence of dirt and slush and prevent rotting of plant roots.
The simplest storm drain can be easily equipped by the owner of the site without the use of third-party specialists, but even when contacting professionals, it will not hurt to get acquainted with the features of the sewer system and the specifics of its design, since as the owner uses it, he will periodically have to repair and clean the system.
For more information on how to install storm drains, see the following video.
To ensure that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation does not get wet and collapse, it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation. This requires rainwater drainage. We can see it in cities - it is a system of water intake devices and canals. Storm drainage in a private house is smaller in size, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do, but you can do it yourself, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.
What is a storm drainage system for a private house and what types does it have?
In regions with high rainfall, it is necessary to drain rain and melt water somewhere. If this is not done, the paths gradually collapse, the soil in the yard becomes soggy, and then dries out for a long time. If you do not make a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash away and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, storm drainage in a private house is the key to the longevity of your home, order and neatness. appearance on your site. This type of engineering systems is also called storm drainage or rainwater drainage.
The composition of the system is as follows:
Where to put the water
Most of the questions arise about what to do with the rapidly arriving sediments. Firstly, storm drainage in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all the pipes of the system are brought into a large container or several containers, and from there, using a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.
Secondly, if there is nothing to water or nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain stormwater into a centralized sewer system, a drainage ditch, or a body of water located nearby. If these possibilities cannot be realized, a system for discharging water into the ground is installed. These are perforated plastic pipes, buried below ground level.
Types and their features
Storm sewerage in a private house can be of three types:
In each specific case you have to design your own circuit - there is no single recipe. Each has its own site with its own characteristics: the absorbency of the soil, the topography, the building, the layout.
What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is only one of many options. The second place where it is advisable to drain water is a large paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. You can solve the problem by making one or more water collection points - installing point rainwater inlets and draining the water according to one of the recipes.
Combined or separate
Often in a private house it is necessary to install three drainage systems at once:
- drainage;
- storm
They often run parallel or are located close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine stormwater with some other one. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water comes at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. Sometimes it gets full.
If the reset goes to sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It won’t rise above the ground level, but you won’t be able to lower anything either - everything will be stuck in the plumbing. After the water level drops, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewer system, so you have to clean it. Not the most pleasant thing to do.
Simultaneous installation of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused
If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, washing it away. You can imagine the consequences. There are still things that are not so obvious. For example, silting of drainage pipes. It is impossible to clean them; you have to replace them. And this is a lot of expense and a lot of work.
So from all that has been said, we can draw a conclusion. First, storm drainage in a private house must have its own well. Second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are unlucky to have a pond, lake or river nearby.
Components of storm drains and their types
All elements of storm drainage in a private house must be connected into a system. Here's what it might consist of:
- Well. It must be large in volume. How big depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from the water one only by the need to make a bottom. To do this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the slab yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to poured concrete platforms so that they do not “float up”. The good thing about this solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.
- Hatch over the storm well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed lid is 15-20 cm below the ground level. To install the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or fill the neck with concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a ready-made cover with a hatch, you can add only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in both color and thickness, paying attention to what is underneath it.
- Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. The bodies of rainwater inlets can be plastic or concrete. Concrete is used when constructing deep storm drains. They are placed one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.
- Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in places of the greatest amount of precipitation - along the roof overhangs, if a drainage system is not installed, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if no pipes have been installed to drain the water. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the second end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make a storm drain without destroying the blind area.
- Sand traps. Special devices in which sand is deposited. They usually install plastic cases - they are inexpensive but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other on long sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.
- Lattices. In order for water to drain away better, the holes in the grate should be large. They are:
- Pipes. For storm drainage it is best to install polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red color). Their smooth walls do not allow sediment to accumulate, and they also have greater conductivity than pipes of the same diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes are also used. A little about the diameter of stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation and the branching of the system. But the minimum diameter is 150 mm, and better yet, more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.
- Inspection wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells, which are installed on an extended section of the pipeline, in places where the system branches. Pipes are cleaned through them, if necessary.
On extended sections, inspection points are needed to clear possible blockages in pipes
The storm sewer system in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but from them you can build a system of any configuration and complexity.
Construction order
In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). This way you can decide quite accurately what you need and how much. Having purchased the necessary materials, you can begin work.
First, a drainage system is installed. Then the installation of storm drainage begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with laying drainage and sewer systems, as well as carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?
Installing a rainwater inlet - fill it with concrete and “weight it down” with something heavy so that it doesn’t squeeze out
If other systems are already ready or they are simply not needed, you can dig trenches. They should be 10-15 cm greater than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it and devices are installed. Crushed stone will neutralize heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under load it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the devices installed in it hardly feel the load.
When installing rainwater inlets, they are concreted. They place formwork around it and fill it with a 15-20 cm layer of concrete. It must be calculated so that the finishing coating that you are going to lay fits normally.
Sometimes long-awaited rain for a summer resident at the height of the season can become a true natural disaster. Due to a prolonged summer rainstorm or during a spring flood, a large puddle may form on the site.
To avoid stagnation of water, a collection system is needed, as well as its removal from the territory. But if you take care of building a storm drain with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be insignificant.
In our article we will learn about the principle of removing atmospheric water, get acquainted with the components of the structure and the features of its maintenance. By following our advice, you will not have any questions about organizing storm drains. You also have the opportunity to purchase storm sewer and all necessary components at a discount on the website https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/livnevaya-kanalizatsiya/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation.
How to make a storm drain?
It’s worth saying right away that this is a rather specific design. The water that is discharged through this system contains both large and small debris. Therefore, there must be primary treatment in the storm sewer.
The system itself may vary design, the volume of water that it can accept and the duration of effective operation.
Point stormwater inlet.
Storm sewerage is a system of underground water intakes, canals, sand traps, collectors and inspection wells. It is used to collect and drain rainwater from the area.
Construction of channels and installation of storm water inlets.
The installation of this type of sewerage will prevent watering of the site during floods and during heavy rainfall, which is extremely important for an area where clay soils predominate.
Protecting the foundation structure from weakening.
Storm drainage will protect the underground parts of structures from erosion by water, and will also prevent subsidence of the foundations as a result of eroded soil underneath.
Accessories for storm drain assembly.
Nowadays, a large number of components are produced for the installation of storm sewers, from which you can easily assemble a system of varying degrees of complexity.
Based on the design of the system, there are three types of storm drains:
- Closed. This option is more complicated. Here we are talking about underground pipes and storm water inlets. Ideally, plan the system in advance and entrust installation to a professional.
- Open. It is distinguished by its simple design, ease of execution, and favorable price.
- Mixed. This type is resorted to when there is not enough money to implement the second option or if it is necessary to cover a large area. It is something between the first two.
Type 1 system is below the zero point, which implies volumetric earthworks and related financial investments.
Type 2 storm drainage system is a system of drainage trays that are built into the coating. Water flows through them to a specially designated place or is drained into the garden.
Important! Surface drainage can fit perfectly into the landscape design of your site, and even become its decoration. This system is used in small spaces.
Basically, such a storm drain is installed during the development of the site, since it is a freezing option that is easier to implement. The system is not buried too deeply - up to 1 meter, but it is not used in work either in winter or early spring.To prevent freezing, the pipes must be located below the freezing point. With type 3 storm drainage, its elements can be partially located both in the soil and on top.
According to experts, the choice of such an expensive option as a closed storm drain must be justified. This decision is justified by the high requirements for the development of the territory.
It is also worth noting that the design of a storm drain is always individual. It is unlikely that you will be able to find areas with identical conditions. They always differ, if not in relief, then in soil properties, layout, and the number of outbuildings.
Storm drains are required both at enterprises and on private property. The main differences in their design are that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which is used for the needs of the enterprise.
The main components of a classic sewer system
Levnevka can be linear or point. The first option involves collecting liquid from non-absorbent surfaces, such as hard surface areas and roofs. Subsequently, the wastewater is sent to receiving tanks and then enters the drainage system.
With a linear method of drainage, water should be drained into trays located near platforms and paths. A simplified version of a storm drain consists of the following elements:
- a central pipe laid under a layer of earth, as well as a finishing coating and drainage water to the extreme point of the scheme.
- trays - the most important detail a system that transports excess water to sand traps (the latter largely determine how efficient the drainage system will be);
- a rainwater inlet located at a low point in the yard or under a pipe to collect liquid;
- distributors and filters - invisible, but no less important components.
All elements of the system are equally important. If one of them breaks, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.
Point type rainwater inlet.
Point storm inlets are used to receive precipitation at one point. They are simpler and cheaper to install, but require pipes to be laid underground to drain water into the sewer system.
Connection to the drainage system.
Point rainwater inlets are located so that they receive water that is collected from the roof of the drainage system. At such points, a storm drain is sometimes connected to a drain.
Point sewerage system.
The drainage of rainwater, which was collected by point sewerage, is carried out through a pipeline laid in the ground. However, the priorities of the conventional installation of storm water inlets are minimized.
Paving the area with storm drain.
The disadvantages of a precision storm drain are the possibility of soil subsidence with a change in the slope of the pipeline, the difficulty of detecting a leak when it occurs, and the need to protect the pipes by placing an equipped area.
Types of storm water inlets for sewerage
The main purpose of a rainwater inlet is to collect water coming from the yard covering and pipes. This element is the first to receive the volume of water that comes from the drainpipes. When choosing a storm drain, it is guided by data such as the average volume of precipitation, its intensity, the area and topography occupied by the storm drain.
Storm drain with linear water inlet.
The technology of storm drainage devices depends on the type of water intake device that was chosen for its construction.
System with point rainwater receivers.
This system consists of pipes laid in the ground.
Installation of storm drainage trays.
Storm drainage with water intakes is a network of channels closed with a special grating made of plastic, steel alloy or cast iron, depending on the required load-bearing capacity.
Special protective and decorative grille.
Both linear and point water intakes are covered with special protective and decorative grilles. They are required for convenience and safety of movement around the site, as well as to protect the system from clogging with branches, leaves and dust.
You can buy a plastic or cast iron storm drain. The former are optimal for use under heavy loads, while the latter are attractive due to their light weight, moderate cost and ease of installation. More budget option- make a rainwater well for storm drainage at your dacha with your own hands from brick.
The walls of the pit are finished with brick, leaving holes intended for the tube, after which the inside is plastered. Ideally, leave a gap between the cover and the soil wall and fill it with concrete. In this case, the bottom of the rainwater inlet must be concreted.
Important! No storm drain can do without a rainwater inlet. It preserves the structure of the building’s foundation, as well as the covering around it. If you decide to save money on its installation, then water entering the foundation will lead to cracks and shrinkage on the walls of the building.
This important element is made from concrete rings. Then you can buy a bottom ring with a finished bottom, and you won’t have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory rainwater inlets are sold with a siphon, basket and decorative grille.
Storm water inlets from composite materials or plastic, used in most cases for private construction, are produced in the form of a cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters at the bottom and on all sides of the product for inserting pipes.
Important! Storm drain grates come in different quantities and may vary in price. It is always necessary to take into account the expected loads on them during operation.
To prevent the pipes from becoming clogged with debris that gets through the grid cells, you need to equip the storm inlets with baskets. When they are full, they are cleaned and removed, and then returned to their place.
The design of a factory rainwater inlet contains partitions that divide its internal space into compartments, thereby forming a water seal. As a result, the unpleasant odor does not penetrate outside.
The performance of a point storm drain depends not just on the volume, but also on the installation location itself. It should be located under a drain or where moisture often collects. If it is located under a pipe, then the jets must fall strictly in the center of the grate, otherwise some of the water will fall on the yard covering or foundation in the form of splashes.
What is the purpose of sand traps?
Melt and rainwater in any case contain a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If you do not use sand traps, dirt will settle in the sewer and it will no longer cope with its tasks fully. Please note that flushing the system will cost you a lot.
A sand trap is a chamber that is installed behind point receivers in places where liquid is discharged into underground pipes. It is created in such a way that water falling on it reduces the speed.
As a result, under the influence of traction, suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. The shape of a sand catcher is a vertical chamber or a trap with a large number of chambers placed horizontally.
Sand trap built into the storm water inlet.
Point storm inlets are equipped with devices for filtering water and retaining sand. In fact, this system does not require additional sand-collecting components.
Sand trap in combined systems.
In combined systems, sand traps are installed in linear sections and before discharge into the absorber/collector.
Sand trap for public storm drainage.
The volume and dimensions of the sand trap depend on the amount of water collected, as well as the class of the storm drain.
Trap device for a household system.
Regardless of size, all types of sand catchers are equipped with sand collection devices that allow accessible and in a simple way empty the device.
Drainage channels: what are they?
If the blind area around the building has already been made, but there is no drainage, the only way out of the situation is to use a drainage gutter, which is called linear storm water inlets. Channels made of plastic or concrete are laid outside the blind area parallel to the overhangs of the cover and paths with some slope.
Linear drainage channels receive water from both roof gutters and yard covered with slabs or asphalt. Such a sewer can cover much more objects than a point one. When buying ready-made trays, you need to pay attention to the following important characteristics, both the limits of mechanical strength and class permissible load.
Important! At first glance, the tray is a simple product, but if you calculate it incorrectly, the system will not be able to work fully. It is necessary to take into account the type of coating, the throughput of the storm drain and the level of pollution of the drained water.
The weakest products are marked A15. It means that their use is permitted only with a maximum permissible load of up to 1.5 tons. They are installed around the entire perimeter of the house, pedestrian and bicycle areas. Trays of class B125 can handle loads of up to 12.5 tons without compromising their integrity. You don't have to worry about them collapsing under the weight of your car since they are designed to be installed in the garage area.
As for private construction, you should not buy powerful concrete gutters; plastic trays are suitable here. They have strength classes A, B, C. The material used for their manufacture is polypropylene or polyethylene.
An important indicator when choosing trays is the hydraulic section, which is denoted by the abbreviation DN. The main thing is that it corresponds to the diameter of the pipes that are routed to these components. For plastic gutters, the DN value varies from 70 to 300.
The standard tray is 1 meter long. The products are equipped with a locking system, with which gutters can be lined up, branches can be made, or they can be connected to pipes. A rational choice for a private home or cottage is models from DN100 to DN200.
Trays with different capacities.
Manufacturers of kits for storm sewer installations offer a wide selection of trays, differing in bandwidth and the material used.
Storm drainage system made of steel parts.
To install areas with pedestrian traffic, storm sewer components are made from galvanized steel. This may not be the most durable option, but it is attractive due to its simplicity of construction.
Gutters made of concrete.
Polymer sand and concrete products can last at least fifty years. They can easily withstand transport loads, including the weight of cargo units. But due to the need to use special equipment for installation due to the large weight of the trays, they are not so often used in the private sector.
Practical plastic option.
Trays made of special frost-resistant polypropylene are actively in demand in landscaping plots. They do not lose strength and do not deform even at temperatures of 40 +65 degrees. Excellent for self-improvement of the territory.
Features of pipe selection
According to SNiP, pipes made of asbestos, metal or plastic can be used for storm drainage. Usually, for a dacha or private home, the choice is made of plastic pipes. They are decorative, lightweight, do not corrode, their installation is extremely simple, but mechanical strength plastic, compared to metal, is relatively small.
After choosing the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.
The initial value is the largest volume of discharged melt and rainwater. This parameter is determined by the following formula:
Q=q20×F×Ψ
Here: Q– required volume q20– coefficient showing the intensity of precipitation over 20 seconds. (liters per second per 1 ha). F- area of the yard in hectares, if you have a pitched roof, the area is calculated on the horizontal plane. Ψ - absorption coefficient.
Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, you can take its values from the table.
Based on the calculated value and using the Lukins table, they find not only the slope and diameter of the system.
Most often, home storm drainage is equipped using pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. From this table you can take the optimal slope of the drains.
By choosing the right diameter, the storm drain will cope with the task even during periods of heavy rainfall. If flows from several gutters enter the tube, then they are all summed up. Experts for gutters with a diameter of 110 mm and pipes with the same diameter, as a rule, use a slope of 20 mm/linear meter.
If the pipe is connected to a storm inlet, the slope is increased slightly to prevent liquid stagnation, but when entering the sand trap, the slope value is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and large quantities of suspended particles settle to the bottom.
The water in this type of sewer drains by gravity, which occurs due to the created slope of the drainage pipe. There are no pressure pumps here, so in a country house or country house it is not necessary to hire a team of specialists to install a storm drain. The entire complex of work can be completed independently.
Where do you need a collector and a well?
As in any system that consists of underground pipes, the storm drain must have an element such as a well.
Its installation is advisable under the following circumstances:
- if two or more flows converge;
- when you need to radically change the height, slope or direction of the pipeline;
- if necessary, switch to a larger pipe diameter.
Wells are also used at established intervals of straight sections of the system. If the diameter of the well is no more than 150 cm, then the next one is at a distance of 30 to 35 m. With a diameter of 200 mm, the distance increases - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, then the interval increases even more – up to 70-75 m.
The diameter of the well does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well, the larger its diameter.
Today, some owners still lay out wells from reinforced concrete rings or bricks in the old fashioned way. Others prefer more advanced materials - fiberglass or plastic. By design, wells are either solid or collapsible.
They are shaped like a cylinder with a hole at the top and a sealed bottom. To connect pipes, pipes are used. Several assembled storm water inlets are also used as wells.
All fluid flows go into the collector after they are combined into a single whole. For this element, the choice of material is individual and depends on the capabilities and preferences of the owner.
To redirect the collected water to a drainage ditch or for ground purification, another element is included in the system - a collector. Sometimes it is used as a large plastic well. It is converted into a storage tank by hermetically sealing the outlet pipes. To use water, a special submersible pump is used.
Large cross-section pipes are also used for the collector - plastic or reinforced concrete with all pipelines connected to them. You can also buy ready-made containers for underground use on the construction market. There are multi-chamber tanks where melt and rainwater are treated according to exactly the same principle as in septic tanks.
A collector well designed to redirect water.
If the site does not have provisions for the disposal of water into the ground, then stormwater is redirected to a drainage ditch or public system located off-site.
Absorption well consisting of perforated rings.
If the size and conditions of the site allow, the collected rainwater is drained into an absorption well. When constructing a well in sandy loam soils, the walls are assembled from special perforated rings, which increases the outflow rate.
An inexpensive option for an absorption well.
A filter well made from old tires is a great option that is almost free. However, he does his job well.
Discharge of rainwater into a ditch.
It is much easier to collect and drain rainwater into a drainage ditch, which does not require significant additional treatment.
How to install storm drainage?
Storm drains are installed on the same principle as ordinary sewers. In any case, the design of a stormwater system is preceded by calculation and selection necessary materials. Before entering the pipes, water collects on the roof of the house, so construction must begin from the top of the building.
To install gutters on the roof, you need to place the lower and upper points, between which the fishing line is stretched. Gutters are installed along such a route, taking into account the slope. The direction for their installation depends on the location of the drainage pipes.
To fix pipes and gutters, brackets are installed, securing them with self-tapping screws. To ensure that liquid gets into the drain, funnels are needed at the lowest points. When assembling pipes and trays, sealant is applied to the joints. In some cases, there are special factory seals on the edges of the parts, then when they are joined, a reliable connection will be obtained.
The water collected in the gutters from the roof flows through vertical gutters into the storm drain. The complex of works on the arrangement of storm sewerage, regardless of its complexity, includes the following stages:
- Development of trenches using machinery or manually.
To install such a sewer system, you need to develop a trench. The soil is dug by hand, and the asphalt can be destroyed with a regular crowbar or special equipment.
- Laying concrete-sand mortar at the bottom of the trench.
Fill the bottom of the trench with moving concrete to the depth of the tray so that the tray shelves are flush with the surface. Slope the trench 2-3 cm per 1 m. The slope should be directed towards the collector well.
- Assembling the storm drain tray.
Having beaten off the storm drain lines with twine stretched between the pegs, we assemble a system of trays with a special protective and decorative grille. The channels must be leveled according to the design slope before the concrete begins to set.
- Installation and connection of sand traps.
In the places indicated in the project, you need to install sand traps, then connect them to the channels laid in the trench.
- Construction of formwork and further pouring of concrete.
Build formwork from boards along the side of the trench and pour mortar between it and the tray placed in the trench.
- Leveling the system when pouring.
When filling the free space with concrete, we level the poured mass. At the same time, we check the slope and, if necessary, adjust the position of the trays.
- Paving the area with the surface you have chosen.
After a technological break, dismantle the formwork, level the site with gravel and sand, and then pave it with paving slabs or some other selected coating.
Point drainage of melt and rain water
The first stage is the marking of the pipeline, which consists of receivers, channels and channels. Pegs are driven in at the locations of all components. To complete the picture, you need to lay a cord between the pegs.
The next stage is digging a trench, as well as small recesses for storm water inlets. You need to install a sand cushion at the bottom.
If there is a threat of roots growing in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom should be covered with geotextiles. The installation itself begins with the installation of collectors and wells. The next small elements in line are sand traps, storm water inlets and trays. All this is connected by pipes required diameter under the slope recommended by SNiP or a selected indicator from the table. There should be no sagging when laying the pipeline.
Now you need to try assembled structure. You need to pour water on each area to assess the tightness of the joints. In this case, the amount of incoming and outgoing water should be approximately the same. At this stage, you may notice sagging (if the difference in the volumes of fluid at the inlet and outlet is different).
If the tests do not reveal any problems, the system must be covered with soil and a sand-cement layer. In some cases, some parts of the storm drain are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first should be located on top of the second pipeline, but they can fit into the same collector.
The combination of storm sewerage and ordinary household sewerage should not be allowed. Otherwise, this may cause the second to be overloaded and provoke many negative consequences.
Let's look at the example of the construction of a storm sewer with point water intakes. It was built from simple sewer pipes. The reason for this is stagnation of water on the surface, which is formed due to the lack of infiltration into the ground associated with the clay structure of the soil.
- Installation of drainage without storm sewer.
The construction of a drainage system on the site necessitated the installation of a storm drain. The water collected by the drain was dumped on the ground and was not absorbed into the ground for quite a long time.
- Development of a trench for storm sewer installation.
We dig trenches under the corners of the roof and drainage risers, which should be perpendicular to the foundation, so as not to develop a wide excavation, and also to reduce the amount of excavation work.
- Construction of a trench around the entire perimeter of the house.
At a distance of about 1 meter from the walls of the building, we dig a trench - it should be located along the walls. Main pipes with a diameter of 160 mm will be laid in it, to which we will connect drainage outlets assembled from sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.
- Laying sewer pipes on the bedding.
To make a slope towards the flow of collected water, you need to fill the bottom of the trench with sand and compact it with the necessary slope. On the main sections there will be 3 slopes per 1 meter, and on branch sections approximately 10 cm.
- Installing a plug on the pipe.
Place temporary plugs on pipes located vertically, which in the future will be connected to drain risers. This way you can protect the system from sand that gets in during work.
- Backfilling of short trenches with branches.
We fill the trench with storm drainage with sewer sand. You should not use “native” soil, as it is clayey. This will partially create conditions for rapid snow melting during melting.
- Laying main pipes with the required slope.
It is necessary to lay the main pipes so that a slope is formed in the direction of the movement of water towards unloading. As a result, all main sections must be inclined. According to the rules, special rotary wells must be installed at turns for cleaning, but in the above example they were not used.
- Corner connection of a special outlet pipe.
If you cannot connect the storm drain outlet at a right angle, connect it at a sharp angle, but keep in mind that the angle should be directed towards the water drain.
When the lines are laid with the correct slope, branches are connected to them and the tightness of all connections is ensured (tightness is not needed to protect the contained soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system), you can connect the storm sewer to a pipe that is discharged into an absorption well :
- Changing the slope by adding sand under the pipes.
Check the slope of unfilled areas of the trench with sand. If necessary, we adjust the slope by adding sand under the pipes and compacting them thoroughly.
- Assembling a unit for connecting to the outlet pipe.
To the pipe that receives water from all areas, you need to connect 2 main pipes and 1 corner outlet from the corner of the roof. Connect the pipes with corner fittings in series.
Storm sewer prevention
Having made a storm drain with your own hands, do not forget that it requires constant maintenance. Prevention includes cleaning point rainwater inlets and trays from debris settled in them.
If you neglect this procedure, the system will fail. Optimal solution– use the system all year round.
Attention! The self-regulating cable can heat a large area. The basis of its design is a semiconductor matrix, which is located between two copper cores. This cable will prevent any pipes from freezing when the temperature drops.
In winter, thaws occur, during which water from the drainage system enters the pipes and channels. It then moves into the storm drain, where it freezes and turns into ice.
To prevent the formation of ice plugs in storm drains, a self-regulating cable is inserted into storm water inlets located under the drain risers. This way, there will be no ice jams in the heated system, and if they form, you can easily get rid of them.
Conclusions
Despite the fact that storm drainage is complex engineering system, its creation will be possible even for a person inexperienced in construction. Just stick with everyone step-by-step actions and your storm drain will serve you for many years.
Don't forget to leave comments in the block below. Be sure to tell us about your experience in organizing storm drainage. Share your impressions and ask questions!
There are many reasons why a house has to be built on a site with high groundwater. But the consequence is always the same - if you do not install protection against flooding, then every spring water will flow to the site, eroding the soil, foundation and basement of the house.
It will help you solve the problem correctly installed system drainage and storm sewerage. If the groundwater level is known at the stage of purchasing the site, then it is most profitable to plan the arrangement of drainage and storm water along with the construction of the house itself. In such cases, you can save money and make stormwater and drainage in one trench.
By installing storm and drainage systems during the construction phase, you can get rid of many problems in the future.
Why are drainage and storm sewers needed?
The main task of a “storm drain” (i.e. a storm system) is to collect water from the roof – rain or melt water – using interconnected gutters and pipes. The storm drain consists of two parts - external (gutters under the roof) and underground (receivers and pipes that drain water from the house). The part that is located in the ground receives water from the roof and blind area, and then is discharged from the site.
Drainage sewerage is needed in order to collect excess water from the ground, i.e. drain it. The main task of drainage is to prevent the groundwater level from rising and to prevent flooding of the site.
Since both systems provide for the discharge of water into special storage tanks, the combined scheme of drainage and storm water looks very attractive in terms of functionality and economy. The collected water can be used for technical purposes, such as irrigation.
This is important!“In the same trench” does not mean that the same pipes are used for stormwater and drainage. This scheme is strictly prohibited for the reason that during seasonal increases in the amount of precipitation, the storm drain is systematically overfilled. If the same pipe works as a drainage pipe, then best case scenario the drainage will temporarily stop functioning.
Drainage and storm sewerage: types of these systems and their features
The systems have absolutely different structure, the only similar elements are pipes and wells. At the same time, they differ not only in structure, but also in the method of installation.
Drainage sewer (closed type)
It is located only underground, and therefore belongs to the closed type of sewer systems. The only elements that are partially located above the surface are wells.
There are several factors that determine whether a site needs a drainage system or not. It is done in the following cases:
if it is located high enough on the site aquifer;
the soil is clayey or loamy;
floods often occur in the area where the site is located;
a buried foundation is being built;
The site is located in a lowland.
If one of these conditions is met, then most likely without drainage there will be problems with flooding or increased humidity in the basement and foundation.
The drainage system consists of the following elements:
Drains(drainage pipes for sewerage, made of geotextile and having perforations through which water enters the drainage).
Sand traps(prevent pipes from becoming clogged if silt and sand frequently enter).
System drainage. Conducts water purified from silt and sand directly into drainage wells.
Several types wells.
After the wells, where the water is purified, it enters a common storage tank, and then it is either used for personal needs or discharged into the waste system.
Materials from which drains are made:
Plastic. Durable, not very expensive, very strong and resistant to low temperatures.
This is what a plastic drainage intermediate well looks like
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer design and installation services for water supply and sewerage. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Asbestos cement. Cheap, but very short-lived - after just a few years, growths may appear on asbestos-cement pipes.
Ceramics. Before the advent of plastic, ceramics were the best option
Standards pipes:
marking SN 2-4 (depth up to 3 meters);
marking SN 6 and what goes above for depths up to 5 meters.
Video description
An example of arranging a drainage system is shown in the video:
Storm sewer system (open type)
“Storm drain” consists of two parts – upper and lower. The system includes:
gutters, into which water enters from the roof, and which lead it further;
funnels and vertical pipes. Water enters the funnels and then flows through vertical pipes into the lower part of the “storm drain”;
clamps to strengthen pipes when connecting them;
tees and swivel elbows, which connect horizontal and vertical pipes with each other; a funnel can also be attached there;
wells.
The system is assembled like a construction kit; you need to draw up a drawing of the system, carefully fasten the parts together and get a finished storm drain.
The most common types of gutters used are: materials:
-
plastic (PVC).
galvanized iron;
What the storm drain will be made of is selected depending on the structure of the house, its architecture and the material from which the roof is made. You can add mesh and anti-icing cable to the gutters to prevent ice from clogging the water outlet in the spring.
Installation of an anti-icing system on the roof of a house
For the manufacture of intermediate and main wells, the following materials are used:
PVC(expensive but very effective option);
Brick and stone(durable, but must be assembled correctly);
Reinforced concrete rings(difficult to install);
Their design is exactly the same as that of a closed drainage.
Combination of storm and drainage sewers
The entire system is installed in one trench. The drainage and storm sewer scheme on the site is quite simple. Through the junction tee, water from the outside and inside (precipitation and groundwater) will flow into the drainage well.
Drainage pipes run throughout the site, collect water and then it is discharged into wells, where it is pumped out of the site. In the “storm drain”, water is collected and discharged into a collector drain, after which, through the well mentioned above, it enters the main pipe system, which exists independently of the drainage, but in one trench (perforation is not needed for the storm system). Through the main pipe system, water enters the bypass well, in which, just like in the drainage, it is pumped out by a pump.
Usually the main well is located at the lowest point of the site and water from it has to be pumped out with a pump
Connecting stormwater and drainage systems is very beneficial, all that is required is a wide trench, all that is necessary is to designate a place for a drainage main, in which water from both systems will flow along different paths so that they are not overloaded.
Through the junction tee, water from the outside and inside (precipitation and groundwater) will flow into the drainage well.
The principle of operation of drainage and storm sewerage
Storm drainage: point drainage. Point elements are necessary for collecting precipitation, be it rain, melted snow, or melted hail. Water can be sent through gutters to the drainage system, and then sent into special ditches with grates, through which water will be removed from the site. This is very important when the building is located on a slope, since when choosing correct angle there will be no need to build additional gutters, but discharge water directly into the ditches.
With linear drainage, water is discharged through gutters and funnels into a special main system consisting of pipes that are suitable for drainage and storm sewerage. Further along this main system, the wastewater enters the collector, and then, depending on the project, the water may go into a storage tank, or maybe beyond the site.
With deep drainage, water from rising groundwater is gradually, in separate parts, discharged into the well, and from there it is pumped out and removed. This system has 3 types:
Horizontal;
Vertical;
Wall-mounted. If there is a basement in the house or ground floor, it is necessary to drain groundwater from them. Wall drainage works most effectively - a moisture collector is installed near the walls, and the wall itself is carefully waterproofed.
Care and instructions for use
Both systems require regular inspection and cleaning of silt, sand, clay and other debris. Seasonal inspections are required - in late fall when the rainy season ends and at the end of winter to ensure that the drainage capacity is not compromised. Despite various filters, sand traps and debris nets, dirt still gets inside. They are found everywhere: in pipes, gutters and wells. If left unattended, the system will simply become clogged and stop functioning.
Timely cleaning of the drainage and storm water drainage system pipes at your dacha will help you avoid many problems.
To clean the pipe, just turn on the pump at maximum power and run ordinary water from a hose through the pipes; it will collect all the dirt and bring it into the well. You can pour water into the gutters and it will also collect all the dirt and then flow through the vertical pipes. The stronger the pressure, the more dirt and debris will come out.
Already in the pump, all the water is pumped out with an even more powerful pump or suction pump; when all the water runs out, it will be necessary to clean the walls. Most often, this ends with flushing, but if the system has not been looked after for a long time, it happens that you have to manually clean the walls and bottom of the well using a scraper. Therefore, regular cleaning is necessary to ensure that both systems operate reliably.
Rules for installing a dual system
Proper installation of a combined system must be carried out according to a pre-created project, which specifies the nuances regarding connection to the site and synchronization of the operation of wells, so that both drainage and stormwater work properly both in normal mode and during overload.
When installing, the following nuances must be taken into account:
Arranging a drainage system is quite an expensive pleasure. If something goes wrong and after a few years the drainage stops working, then you will have to spend no less money on its restoration than on installing a new one, especially considering that you will have to “pick apart” the landscape design. As a result, drainage installation should be done by professionals.
During the flood period, each of the systems will be overloaded. Since they collect moisture from different sources, drains must be laid for each system separately. You can do this in the same trench, but at different depths. A common well can be used to collect water.
When digging trenches for drains, you should definitely take into account that the bottom of the hole will be covered with crushed stone and sand. This means that if it is necessary to place a drain at a certain depth, the hole must be dug deeper to the thickness of the layers of sand and crushed stone.
The pit for the drainage system well must be deep enough
Typically, water is collected in a storage tank (pit or reservoir), from where it is used for technical needs or pumped into reservoirs or simply away from the site. If perforated pipes are used for drainage, the outlet pipes are always solid. When combining them vertically in one trench, the perforated ones are laid on the bottom, and the regular ones on top.
If main and drain pipes are combined horizontally in a trench, then they are laid parallel, at a short distance from each other (so that if the main pipe is damaged, water from there does not enter the drainage system and overload it).
Video description
About the installation of a stormwater system and drainage in the following video:
