Extension of a bathroom to a wooden house. Extension to a house - the most interesting projects and main types of extensions (130 photos)

By adding a bathroom to your home, you will increase the comfort of your stay and also expand usable area housing. Specialists of Rekonstruktsiya LLC will carry out construction in as soon as possible in compliance with all technical requirements. We offer clients Additional services: insulation of the extension, its internal and external finishing, hemming the roof, installing a drainage system and others. The work is guaranteed.

Stages of arranging a bathroom

Even if you live outside the city, you don’t have to give up your usual city comfort. Adding a toilet to your home is a simple solution to a popular problem. To organize the proper functioning of a warm bathroom, seek the help of professionals. Rekonstruktsiya LLC specialists will perform the following work:

Construction and subsequent finishing of premises.
Construction of a drainage field.
Design and installation of utilities.
Laying a septic tank.
Installation of plumbing fixtures, their connection and startup.

Understanding the specifics of such work is not always easy even for a trained person. Trust us, and adding a shower to your home will not require you to make a large investment.

Order a bathroom extension from Rekonstruktsiya LLC

When constructing such structures, it is important to take into account the entire set of factors - from the choice of suitable materials and the need to legitimize the extension to compliance with the overall composition. Thus, a bathroom extension to the house should not consist of foam blocks, because they are prone to moisture accumulation. We will take into account all the nuances and guarantee for our customers:

Implementation of the project without downtime.
Compliance with the agreed terms of cooperation.
Control over construction at all stages of its implementation.
Handing over the object in the presence of the manager.
Favorable price for an extension due to wholesale purchases of materials.
Invariably high quality and providing guarantees for all types of work.

Buying a new wooden country house usually comes with a lot of problems and concerns. However, if your home design includes a bathroom, consider that the lion’s share of all problems have already been solved. A bathroom in a wooden house is the most difficult part of construction; no other living space requires as much attention and labor. Literally everything matters: the location of the bathroom and shower, the size of the room, proximity to water, good ventilation. In addition to designing sewerage and ventilation systems, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of waterproofing and issues of further finishing of the room.

The main stages of building a bathroom with your own hands

The location of the shower plays an important role: firstly, it must have access to a water source, and secondly, it must be connected to a sewer system, or, at worst, a cesspool or treatment facility.

A bathroom in a wooden house (no matter what it is made of: profiled timber or logs, or chopped by hand) is equipped in several stages:

Bathroom in a wooden house: location and dimensions

No matter how much you would like to bring your share of creativity into the construction of a bathroom, it would be more correct to do this without going beyond the professional rules for its placement:

If one of the walls of the bathroom is external, it will be easier to ventilate it

one of the walls of the bathroom should be external, this will greatly facilitate its ventilation;
if the house has several floors, you can also equip several bathrooms, placing them one above the other;
optimal location - next to the bedroom or dressing room;
inappropriate place for a bathroom - next to the place of eating and preparing food;
if you want to save space, consider making a main or additional bathroom under the stairs.

As for size, the bathroom, together with utility rooms, should not occupy more than 20-25% of the area of the house. In any case, if the owner wants a huge bathroom, no one will stop him from doing so; it is only important to worry about careful waterproofing.

Rules for constructing a bathroom in a private house

The functionality and durability of the future bathroom depends on careful adherence to all installation rules.

The main problem facing the builder is the shrinkage of a wooden house. If a brick or reinforced concrete house does not create such problems, then a wooden one, due to its material, is subject to seasonal changes.

To drain water, use metal-plastic or plastic pipes

Therefore, it is worth taking this fact into account when laying communication networks, making a reserve of free space or using damping devices.

To drain water, it is best to use metal-plastic or plastic pipes, because they do not deform when exposed to walls and partitions that have changed due to precipitation. When fastening the pipeline, it is necessary to use clamps with rubber gaskets.

The design of a bathroom in a wooden house is best done on the basis of a sliding frame system - self-sufficient load-bearing structure, autonomous relative to the walls of the house and therefore not exposed to their influence during shrinkage.

The sliding frame is a system of metal profile attached to the wall.

The main requirement during installation is to ensure the mobility of the profile. To do this, elongated, oval holes are made in the wall using a drill, so that the screws entering them do not touch wall covering. The screws are not tightened tightly so as not to interfere with the mobility of the entire structure.

Paneling, installation of ceiling and floor in the bathroom

After installing the profile, you can begin covering with plasterboard. First, you need to prepare the base: using rivets, the same ones are attached to existing U-shaped profiles, modifying them so that it is convenient to attach sheets of drywall.

Drywall is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws

Drywall can be secured using self-tapping screws. It is worth deciding in advance on the placement of the wiring and, when installing sheets of drywall, drill holes in them for the wires. You can lay tiles on top of the drywall.

It is better to make the ceiling in the bathroom suspended: this way you can conveniently disguise all the ventilation elements.

Scheme of waterproofing a bathroom floor in a wooden house

The floor is arranged in different ways: depending on the type of base. If the base is concrete, the floor is made the same as in a stone house. If the base is wooden logs, then thickened waterproof plywood is laid first, then hydroglass insulation, reinforced screed and finally the tiles.

In addition, a bathroom in a wooden house needs careful waterproofing. If funds allow, you can lay a polymer floor, but if your budget is limited, you can apply it yourself water-repellent mixture or glue a waterproof floor covering.

Preliminary finishing of a bathroom in a wooden house must be done carefully: it must be leveled, cleaned, soaked with an antiseptic and cracks in the floor must be repaired before directly laying the waterproofing layer and finishing coating.

Wooden houses easily become damp and are extremely susceptible to mold fungus. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, you should take care of proper ventilation of the room.

If at least one of the walls of the bathroom is external, then the room itself is ventilated. Additional ventilation requires expensive, fire-proof equipment.

It is better to entrust the installation of ventilation to a professional, because incorrectness in this matter can cause a further fire in the system. In addition to the fact that all materials used must be non-flammable, the entire structure should not come into contact with wood, but should be mounted on special brackets. The system also needs fire dampers and reliable protection from moisture.

Supplying water to a bathroom in a wooden house

The final stage of work is supplying water. Before supply is established, all systems, from sewer to ventilation, must be installed and thoroughly checked. To avoid water freezing in the pipes, all drainage networks must be insulated, and the base of the floor must be equipped with a vapor barrier film.

Scheme of supplying water to wooden house

Thus, equipping and preparing a bathroom for use with your own hands requires a lot of effort, building materials and special equipment (take, for example, the ventilation system). You can’t get hung up on the aesthetic side of the issue: it’s better to spend less on beautiful finish, but carefully consider waterproofing and ventilation of the room, not to mention the main thing - proper sewerage.

A bathroom in a private house is practically no different from the same room in apartments in multi-storey buildings. At the same time, in the conditions of your home, you can plan the bathroom so that it meets all your requirements.

Owners of their own houses have the opportunity to build a room for receiving water treatments, based on their financial capabilities and personal wishes. Owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, where geometric dimensions bathrooms are strictly standardized. If you are building a house from scratch, you can place the bathroom in it anywhere in the home, allocating as many square meters as you like.

If you plan to enter an already in use residential building, it is recommended to place the bathroom in strictly designated areas:

In houses 15–30 years old - in a built-in car garage or basement level, attic or second floor, in the place where the bathroom was designed by the builders.
In buildings older than 30 years - in the corridor, next to the kitchen, on closed veranda, attic, on a free area, “hidden” between floors under the stairs.

Placing a bathroom in a private building

You can build a room for receiving water procedures from almost any materials, from concrete and foam blocks to wood and brick. The main thing here is to correctly and rationally plan the bathroom, making it impeccably comfortable to use. This is easy to achieve if you follow the following tips from professionals:

be sure to equip the bathroom in a private home with reliable sources of hot and cold water, efficient ventilation system and sewer drain;
swipe high-quality insulation bathroom;
equip the bathroom with lighting sources and modern ergonomic plumbing fixtures;
leave at least 80–100 cm of free space in front of the font or shower stall;
install the sink in the bathroom at a height of about 80 cm;
properly arrange the floor in the bathroom and insulate it;
Finish the room with special materials that have good resistance to temperature changes and high humidity.

Country private houses are rarely connected to centralized systems water supply and wastewater disposal. For this reason, concerns about the arrangement of water supply and sewerage fall entirely on the shoulders of the home owner.

The water supply can be established from a well or a well available on suburban area. There shouldn't be any special problems. There are many options now pumping stations– compact mechanisms operating in automatic mode. You need to choose such a device, install it once and no longer worry about the lack of water in the bathroom. The pump itself will pump out water and then supply it to the house. The problem with heating water is also easily solved.

Install electric water heater or gas boiler. It’s even better to spend money and purchase a dual-circuit heating unit. It will provide you with hot water supply and heat your home to a comfortable temperature even in the harshest winters.

Double-circuit heating unit

The next step is construction autonomous system withdrawal Wastewater. There are two here standard options. You can equip your plot of land regular drain hole or spend money on building an effective septic tank that will filter wastewater. can be built with your own hands without any problems. Moreover, you will not spend much time on this event.

Be sure to take care of arranging a high-quality country home. Without it, there will be constant dampness in the room, which will ultimately lead to the formation of mold and mildew. Ventilation can be forced or natural. The cost of their arrangement varies.

Do natural ventilation DIY is as easy as shelling pears. All you need to do is punch a hole under the bathroom ceiling (the cross-section of such a “hole” is within 9–14 cm). Through it, air saturated with moisture will escape from the room to the outside. Another hole is made nearby. It is needed to take in fresh air. It is advisable to mount a special diffuser on the second hole, which will regulate the volume of air entering the bathroom.

Similarly, you can do forced ventilation. But in in this case will have to purchase additionally exhaust fan. This increases the cost of creating a ventilation system. It is better to entrust the installation of the exhaust unit to specialists. They will tell you which fan is suitable for your home, and will also quickly and efficiently install everything necessary equipment.

Modern thermal insulation products allow you to achieve an ideal microclimate in the room for water procedures. You can insulate your bathroom using the following materials:

Mineral wool. A proven thermal insulator that prevents the risk of condensation on the ceiling and walls of the bathroom. Mineral wool is hygroscopic. Therefore, it must be protected from moisture with a vapor and waterproofing layer. Experts advise using cotton wool in the form of mats (slabs). Such products have high rigidity, and most importantly, they are much easier to install with your own hands than cheaper mineral wool in rolls. Note! Areas where cotton mats will come into contact with heating equipment must be shielded. Aluminum foil is most often used for these purposes.
Cork thermal insulator. Any home craftsman can use it to insulate a bathroom. Cork products are simply glued to the ceiling and wall surfaces. Important nuance. Thermal protection of bathrooms is possible with cork products treated with a special wax-based impregnation. It increases the water-repellent characteristics of the thermal insulator.
Foam sheets. Inexpensive and available material. It makes it possible to insulate rooms for water treatments in a private home with minimal financial outlay. True, its installation is quite labor-intensive and requires special care from the performer. To insulate walls and ceilings with foam plastic sheets, you will need to carefully prepare the surfaces (clean them, make them as even as possible, prime them). Another difficulty is the fragility of the material. If you are careless, the foam breaks. So be prepared for meticulous work.

Modern thermal insulation products

You can insulate your bathroom with the most modern thermal protector - liquid polyurethane foam. It is characterized by high moisture and fire resistance, sound and heat insulation, excellent vapor permeability and strength. Polyurethane foam is sprayed using special equipment.

Flooring in rooms with high humidity should be as moisture resistant as possible and truly high-quality. Most often, the bathroom floor is made of ceramic tiles. Moreover, in this case, special ceramics with a rough surface and great thickness are used.

The tiled floor can withstand severe mechanical loads, it has an anti-slip effect, which is very important. Yes and appearance such a coating can safely be called ideal. Modern technologies make it possible to equip even a wooden floor in the bathroom. Although such coating is still used quite rarely. But an elegant and beautiful floor made of artificial or natural granite and marble can be seen in many country cottages and private houses.

Tiled floor in the bathroom

Also finishing of floor bases is made with the following materials:

laminate;
parquet board;
linoleum;
glass and mosaic elements;
porcelain stoneware

The bathroom floor needs proper insulation. Its thermal protection is carried out using polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam materials. Polystyrene foam and other traditional thermal insulators that we discussed above are not used. Expanded polystyrene has high thermal insulation properties and sufficient rigidity. But it must be installed in a thick layer (5–8 cm), which is irrational and economically unprofitable. But polyurethane foam insulation is laid on the floor in a layer of no more than 2 cm. At the same time, it acts as a membrane with steam-conducting capabilities.

An excellent, but objectively expensive solution is to insulate bathrooms with a heated floor system. It is characterized by a high heating potential due to a relatively large heating area. Thanks to this, the room is heated without the need to create elevated temperatures.

Bathing areas in a private home can be decorated in different ways. Give vent to your imagination. Turn an ordinary bathroom into a chic room where you can relieve the stress that has accumulated during the day, relax and feel all the charm of our fast-paced life.

Decorating a bathing area in a private home

Pay special attention to the choice color palette furnished premises. Orange, yellow, peach and silver shades can energize you. But copper, golden and soft green colors have a calming effect on the human nervous system. Last tip. Decoration Materials To create a unique bathroom design, you need to choose wisely. Buy products that are not afraid of chemically active compounds and reagents, high humidity and temperature. And then the bathroom will be long time delight you with its beauty and functionality.

August 27, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Have you noticed that the bath and toilet next to the kitchen are designed in almost all standard residential buildings, starting from Stalin buildings, and ending with buildings under construction today. Have you ever wondered whether these are shortcomings in the building design, saving living space or a technical necessity?

If you don’t know the answer, but are planning to build an extension or own house, I will try to answer it, and you will also have the opportunity to watch the video in this article regarding this topic.

What does the kitchen have in common with the bathroom and toilet?

Sewage system

In order to understand the essence of the issue, you need to understand the principle of the system.

Table of slopes of pipes of different diameters

To install a sewer system, there are certain instructions and different priorities:

first of all, sewer systems this type does not have a forced drain, therefore the slope of the pipes is required - there is no way to do without it;
Moreover, this same slope is different for different pipe diameters and the allowances for ± there are small. This means that we have to look for a common denominator for all plumbing fixtures;
the drainage from the house to or any storage tank is made by the hundredth, one hundred and fiftieth or, in rare cases, the two hundredth pipe, which is laid at an angle in the trench;
all other plumbing fixtures are connected to it;
therefore, from a technical and technological point of view, it is much more profitable and convenient to install all plumbing units as close to each other as possible.

In the schematic image above you see the standard arrangement of bathrooms, whether it is a kitchen and toilet extension to the country house or they are pre-designed in the house:

Please note that the toilet is the last one, the outlet of which is connected to the hundredth pipe (it is designed for it). Although, if you have a larger pipe diameter, then in such cases you simply install a reducing adapter;
all other appliances, with the exception of automatic washing and dishwasher are connected by the 50th pipe, and the mentioned exceptions are connected by the 32nd.

Imagine that the toilet, that is, the toilet bowl, will be located at a distance of, say, 20 m from the kitchen sink, which means that the outlet at the sink siphon should be at a height of 70 cm. Agree that this is not entirely convenient and practical!

That is why the plan for a kitchen-bathroom-toilet extension to a house is made as if in one unit, although separated by partitions.

Nuances of arranging an extension

The extension where the water supply and sewerage lines will be located must be warm, regardless of what material it is made of (wood, brick, foam blocks, concrete, etc.). Otherwise:

pipelines will freeze in winter;
if it is metal, it will burst;
and polypropylene and PVC will simply stop functioning.

Now I’m not talking about pipe heat insulators, but specifically about warm room, that is, fairly thick walls and heating devices inside.

So, in order to build a warm extension, you will have to insulate it with your own hands, using synthetic materials such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. But each region has its own insulation coefficient for residential buildings.

Using this coefficient, the thickness is calculated thermal insulation material. But if you don’t want to deal with formulas, you can simply focus on your home and make the wall thickness the same.

If you additionally insulate the walls in the extension, it is better to do it outside. If the insulation is inside, the wall still freezes, therefore, the efficiency of the arrangement decreases.

If you are making an extension for the kitchen with bathrooms, then most likely you will do it in modern style Therefore, you will want to hide all the pipelines under the finishing. This means that they will move to a colder area of the building and you will need additional protection by cold.

Foamed polyethylene is the best choice here, which is made in the form of a pipe with a seam on one side - the shell is opened and put on the pipe required diameter(the price of such material is quite affordable and depends on the cross-section).

In such extensions it is very convenient to arrange all the electrical wiring, for example, a switch block for the bathroom-kitchen-toilet and one or two sockets. This not only saves space, but also facilitates possible repairs.

But in the bathroom or kitchen there may be appliances such as an electric boiler or an automatic washing machine, and they need separate wiring, moreover, with grounding. Grounding for the private sector is not a problem - you can easily make such a circuit yourself, protecting not only electrical appliances, but also your health.

Conclusion

Of course, you have the opportunity not to install bathrooms in the extension directly next to the kitchen and separate them, for example, with a pantry. You can even make two extensions, but in this case you will have to install a separate sewer line.

In any case, it's up to you to decide! If you have any questions or want to add to the topic, write about it in the comments.

August 27, 2016

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Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, installation of a sewer system in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, creating a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

A do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or combined version, which includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living, this means the absence of dampness in the room, which means reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, they bring engineering Communication- in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install the water supply separately.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, and think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a lightweight structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer recreation. It may be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and May be and completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but it will still be necessary to waterproof the foundation.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, strip foundation arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope, which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
The width of the trench should be 100-150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted using a manual tamper.
Next, waterproofing is laid in a trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only inner part foundation, but also formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is filled with rough concrete mortar made of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

After pouring this layer, you can start installing wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. Waterproofing film left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprinkled with water daily to strengthen it.
After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

Video - construction of an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone, and waterproofing is laid.
If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued onto heated bitumen mastic.
Make a gap in the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars backfill, compacting every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside a strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is installed on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for the unhindered flow of water falling on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day it can be covered plastic film- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative covering or wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden blocks quite thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Beams are laid on pillars or strip foundations, on top of a fabricated roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

They will hold securely because wood flooring The “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

Video: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) with outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of constructing a light extension to a house

Brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Before starting masonry, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this happens living room, then you should lay at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then half a brick will be sufficient.
Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose a different type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After erecting the walls, it is necessary to do ceiling. For it you will need beams - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having first wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically the single-slope option is chosen, which is worth considering.

This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple, the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It must be no less than 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several bottom rows (sheets) roofing material from the roof of the house to use its beams for securing rafter system and consolidation of common coverage.
You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material is laid on top of the rafters and secured, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed ( roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system is under covering material will be ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Above waterproofing material the roofing is laid, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and rising to the top. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to a wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

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Metal tiles

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

They are fixed to the floor beams cross beams from smaller bars.
It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

Next is everything rough coating it is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Place tightly between the joists mineral wool, expanded clay or slag is poured.

On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool laid between the fixed on concrete base lag and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

For internal wall insulation, mineral wool produced in mats is used. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened vapor barrier film, securing it to the bars with staples.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in frame construction, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you don’t have confidence in your capabilities, or you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.