Technology for replacing the crowns of a wooden house. How to change rotten lower crowns in a wooden house? Cosmetic repair of the lower crowns

In old houses where the floors were made of wood, the problem of creaks and fragility of the coating arises very often. The board wears out, rots and dries out. Replacing a wooden floor with a concrete one in an apartment looks rational. This can be done, including in old houses. Concrete flooring has excellent strength and service life; it can be covered with laminate if fully complied with technical requirements to this process.

Removing old flooring

Dismantling the old covering is the first step in replacing a wooden floor with a concrete one in an apartment. For this, standard tools are used: sledgehammer, crowbar, crowbar.

Linoleum floor coverings are removed.
Using a tool, the coating is disassembled.
In areas where pipes and other communications enter, you should be especially careful.

After removing the old boards, access to the base opens. In apartments, logs are laid on reinforced concrete slabs, often they are not even secured. The space between them is filled with the remains of construction waste for sound insulation.

Everything needs to be removed. To collect garbage you will need bags and a place for their temporary storage.

After construction debris and dirt have been removed, the joists are assessed. If the wood is in good condition, you can create a base for pouring screed over plywood or chipboard, which will be placed on the existing substrate. But this will cause the floor level to rise, so it is worth deciding what is better: to make a new coating on the joists, without insulation, or to remove the joists and form a layer of concrete over the floor slabs.

In practice, most apartment owners act according to the second option. The logs are dismantled. After this, you need to carefully assess the condition of the pipes - cold and hot water, sewerage. If there is damage or signs of poor condition, the interfloor section should be replaced immediately. Later, after the concrete floor has been created, repairs will require much more problems and time consumption.

Evaluation of the work list

The slab, freed from the floor, joists, construction debris and other dirt, is inspected. Level measurements are taken. Will come in handy laser level, which determines the difference in heights and their nature.

Several situations may arise:

the base is formed by several narrow slabs forming a “step”;
there is a trough-like appearance or there is a bulge in the center of the room with a drop in height towards the perimeter;
there is a uniform slope of the base in one direction or the other.

It is necessary not only to evaluate the work according to the level of investment of funds, but also to plan for the smallest possible mass of the screed. To do this, the concrete layer is made to a minimum thickness, placing it on backfill or lightweight mortar.

The procedure for assessing the work of the future floor with a large difference in floor heights, from 70 mm, looks like this:

the thickness of the concrete screed is 40-50 mm;
the remaining space can be filled with grade mortar.

A cheaper method is to fill the rough surface with sand, but the mass of such a cushion will be significant. In practice, it is ideal to make a base of plywood, under which expanded clay is poured to level the level. This method of producing work simultaneously gives a smooth flat surface under the screed, the rough fill has a low mass and provides a certain degree of additional sound insulation.

The base for the plywood screed can be made on logs made of small-section timber. This is a convenient and fairly cheap way. The logs are laid on the floor, ensuring horizontality, while small supports are placed under them in the right places. After this, the free space is filled with expanded clay.

When filling the base with sand, it must be spilled with water and compacted thoroughly. It is not recommended to use a vibrating tool - neighbors below may damage the plaster finish or experience other troubles. After finishing the work, the sand should be given a couple of days to dry.

The difference is whether a wooden or concrete floor is located on the interfloor floor - in the mass of the coating. Although, not only this. About this video:

A little about very old houses

In houses where there is no reinforced concrete interfloor covering, replace the wooden floor with concrete screed There is only one way: to build a rough covering from plywood or chipboard. Some people recommend repairing the existing wood floor or adding additional covering.

However, in practice, such work takes a lot of time, money, and requires replacing damaged areas, removing old paint and other coatings to assess the condition of the boards.

Therefore proceed as follows:

all boards are removed flooring;
in houses with ceilings on beams or a metal profile, construction waste is poured between the floor and ceiling of the lower floor for sound insulation. All this needs to be removed;
the state of the lag is assessed. If bad, they are deleted. If good, the logs are cleaned, treated with anti-mold and antibacterial agents and secured in such a way as to ensure the evenness of the plywood or chipboard flooring.

Preparation of the base for the screed begins with filling expanded clay into the interfloor ceiling on beams or I-beams. This layer will have low mass and have good sound insulation. Backfilling is carried out to the upper level of the lag. After this, they lay plywood or chipboard and operate in the same way as in an apartment.

Construction of waterproofing and insulation

After the rough base for the screed is ready, they begin to create a waterproofing layer. For this you can use:

roofing felt or glassine;
bitumen roll insulators based on fiberglass or fiberglass;
polymer film;
one-sided vapor-permeable membrane.

Before spreading the rolled waterproofing material, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. To do this, the entire perimeter of the room is taped with a special construction tape. Afterwards the coating is coated with bituminous mastic of a cold type. Some compositions will require time to dry, so it is worth warning your neighbors in advance about the need to tolerate the unpleasant odor.

After the mastic has hardened, the perimeter is glued with damper construction tape 20 mm thick and the roll waterproofing can be spread. The strips of material are placed with an overlap of 10-15 cm, each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one. Along the perimeter of the room, the waterproofing agent should extend 10-15 cm onto the walls.

The seams are processed as follows:

when using a polymer film, the area of the edge of the strip located on the previous one is glued with wide tape;
roofing felt and other bitumen-containing materials are thoroughly heated with a construction hair dryer over the joint area and rolled over it with a gluing roller.

It is not recommended to use floating class materials in an apartment. They require treatment with a kerosene burner, which, under conditions limited space and ventilation can become a problem.

Rolled waterproofing insulators on a self-adhesive basis will speed up the work. They cost more, but will speed up the flooring significantly.

After the waterproofing is laid, insulation is placed on it. This stage of work is carried out if a heated floor heating system is being built. In other cases, it is not necessary to use thermal insulation.

Laying reinforcement

classic, laying a 10 mm steel mesh with a mesh size of 5 cm on the floor with a gap to the insulation or waterproofing insulation;
using plastic reinforcing mesh;
adding special fibers to the solution.

You can also place an aluminum mesh inside the screed. But the method using fibers is the leader in terms of convenience and rationality. This will allow:

do not worry about the presence of an expansion gap to the waterproofing or insulation;
lay a heated floor heating system inside the screed;
work at high speed.

Fibers for screed reinforcement are affordable, and their use can ensure uniform strength of the concrete layer. But when constructing a floor not on a reinforced concrete floor slab, it is recommended to in the classic way using reinforcing mesh.

Installation of beacons

Beacons on the floor on the prepared surface are installed simply: special profiles or a corner for decorating corners during plastering are placed on small mounds of gypsum putty. The evenness of the surface formed by the upper points is checked using a long building level.

If the base is poorly prepared and there is a difference in levels in certain areas of the area, the height of the putty mounds varies. The beacons must be placed at a distance of 40-50 cm, directing them along a line from the window to the door. Parts cannot be moved until the putty has completely hardened and the beacons are securely fixed.

Preparation of the solution

If you want to replace a wooden floor with a concrete screed and worry less about the pressure on the floor, you can use ready-made building mixtures. For example, KREISEL 440, 441, MZ150, which allow you to create a layer of up to 70 mm with a minimum of 35 mm. In this case, there is no need to stir the dry mixture - the composition is immediately ready to add water.

The standard approach is to use the classical cement-sand screed. To prepare it you will need:

1 part of cement grade M400;
3 parts sifted construction sand;
0.1 parts of lime paste, acting as a plasticizer;
fibers for reinforcement in the quantity recommended by the manufacturer.

Before mixing with water, the dry mixture must be thoroughly mixed until a uniformly colored composition is formed. After this, they begin to add liquid, continuing to stir until the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained.

Recommendation: for quick and high-quality work, you should prepare a large amount of dry mixture in advance. As needed, you can quickly dilute it with water. If you measure out equal parts of the composition, it is easy to figure out the amount of liquid required and prepare the solution extremely quickly.

Laying the screed

The screed is laid from the window or far wall to the door. The solution is laid out in large portions and is leveled by a long rule according to beacons. There are no difficulties during the work, you just need to act quickly so that the solution does not set and is easily smoothed out. It is recommended that two people work together to lay the screed. One is preparing the solution, the second is applying it.

Creating a Finish Coat

In the apartment I want to achieve maximum strength and at the same time -. There are several ways to do this:

sand the floor with sandpaper;
apply special polymer compounds or paint with paint for concrete;
iron the surface of the screed after 3-4 days, when partial hardening occurs;
form thin layer self-leveling floor.

If you plan to lay tiles on the floor, you can do without additional surface treatment. For laminate or linoleum coatings, it is recommended to carry out. The most expensive version of self-leveling flooring allows you not only to obtain a smooth and even surface, but also to create an effective final coating. For example, a popular 3D floor or with graphic images.

The issue of creating the final coating should be considered in advance. The self-leveling floor will raise the overall level by about 30 mm, a similar situation is with ceramic tiles. However, the final design can be considered as a secondary measure. As for the concrete floor itself, if you follow the given rules and methods, after complete drying in 2-3 weeks, you can create a very strong, durable coating at an acceptable cost of money and time.

Lower crowns in wooden log house– one of the most vulnerable places. No matter how hard the owners try to protect a wooden frame (be it a house or a bathhouse), it is not immune from deterioration. The tree is beautiful building material, but its service life is limited.

The situation when the house is in good condition, but the base is very rotten, is quite common. Master wooden building should think about the possibility of repairing the lower logs already at the construction stage.

If a wooden frame house requires major repairs after 50-60 years of operation, then its lower crowns (basement part) may fail much earlier. Accelerated destruction of wood occurs for the following reasons:

Rotting as a result of frequent and prolonged direct contact with sedimentary and flood moisture, release groundwater, accumulation of penetrating moisture and condensation.
Damage by microorganisms (fungi, mold, bacteria), insects (ants, bark beetles, etc.) and various rodent pests.
Destruction under excessive loads.
Mechanical damage of various types.

The following factors contribute to the appearance of these destructions:

Absence or poor quality waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth, as well as on the outside of the lower part of the wall.
An improperly organized drainage system, which causes the accumulation of sedimentary and flood water, as well as moisture formed when snow melts.
Lack of foundation ventilation (vents or vents).
Violations during construction - use of low-quality wood, incorrect choice of log diameter, use of undried wood, insufficient antiseptic treatment and anti-rot impregnation wooden elements, incorrect calculation of loads, violation of the rules for laying the lower crowns.

Important. Lower crowns made of high-quality, durable material and impregnated protective composition, with proper waterproofing, have the same service life as the entire wooden frame of a house.

Preparatory work

Properly carried out preparatory stage creates the basis for quality repairs. It includes the following activities:

External inspection. It must be carried out periodically so as not to start a destructive process. The above-ground part of the foundation, the filling element and the 3-4 lower crowns of the frame are inspected with special care. An obvious reason for repair is the appearance of visible defects - cracks in the wood, deformation of individual logs (including bulging in one direction or another), discoloration, traces of insects and pests. A pronounced sign may be the presence of a specific smell of rotten wood.
Checking the internal condition of the wood. Superficial signs do not always indicate the need for major repairs - sometimes they just need to be cleaned off the logs and covered with a protective layer. Things are much worse if the process goes deeper into the material. The first sign of this is established by the dull sound heard when the logs are tapped with a hammer. For a more accurate picture, you need to use a chisel and carefully remove top layer trees to assess the condition of the core.
Assessing the scope of work and drawing up a repair plan. At this stage, the types of defects and the distribution of damage are identified - local, i.e. on a small area of logs; damage to individual logs; destruction of almost the entire basement area (on one wall or along the entire perimeter of the house). Accordingly, repairs can have the following types: replacement of a small section of a log; replacement of one log with or without lifting the entire frame; complete replacement of the entire basement part of the frame.

Complete replacement of the lower crowns

Major repairs in the form of a complete replacement of the lower crowns include raising the frame, removing rotten logs and installing new crowns. The work is carried out in the following order: preparatory activities, replacement of the lower crowns and beams.

Preparatory activities:

maximum lightening of the entire structure (removal of furniture and plumbing, removal of doors and windows, dismantling of the floor and roofing);
dismantling stoves and fireplaces if they do not have their own independent foundation;
separation of the chimney from ceiling and roofing, if the stove is not dismantled;
disconnecting floor joists if they are embedded in the lower crowns to be replaced;
shutting down all communications.

To secure the crowns along the entire perimeter of the house, boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm are nailed vertically at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. You can fasten adjacent crowns using metal staples. Fastening is provided on both sides of the wall (outside and inside).

To lift the log house at a distance of 60-80 cm from the corner of the building, an opening 35-45 cm wide is made in the foundation and part of the logs is cut out to form a niche for installing a jack. The following lifting technology can be used:

With one jack. Each corner is raised in turn.
Using 2 jacks. First, one wall is raised completely, and after it is fixed, the opposite one is raised.
On 4 jacks. The entire frame rises at once. This method eliminates damage to the frame, but requires coordination of the operation of the devices.

After raising the corner of the log house to a height sufficient to remove one log, a support mounted on 2 posts is placed under the first crown, which cannot be replaced. This way the frame is fixed at all lifting points, and the jack is removed.

Unusable logs are knocked off the nigels and removed outside. Then new logs are installed. They are immediately held together with nigels. A jack is again placed under the lower crown, which is used to compact the new logs.

Before completing the work, the foundation is repaired if necessary, the waterproofing between the base and the base is restored, and a new filling element is installed. After this, using jacks, the frame is slowly lowered to its original place, secured with pins.

After full lowering of the log house, all the cracks between the logs are caulked with moss, tow or jute. The thermal and waterproofing of the base is restored.

Partial replacement of timber

If an examination of the condition of the house shows that the foundation is in good condition, as is most of the base, and only a small section of the crown is destroyed, then repairs are carried out by partially replacing the elements of the frame. In this case, only the damaged area of one or more logs is removed, and a kind of “patch” is installed.

Such work involves the following steps:

The area to be repaired is clearly marked, for which you can use a knife, ax or chisel.
Fixation of crowns. At a distance of 35-45 cm on both sides of the boundary markings, ties from a board 3-4 cm thick (with fixation of 2-3 crowns) or metal brackets are installed.
Cutting along the markings of the damaged area using a chainsaw, electric saw or grinder.
Preparing the opening. The lower surface of the upper, untouched crown is slightly flattened, and cuts 15-20 cm wide are made at the ends of the opening. The entire surface of the opening is carefully treated with an antiseptic.
Manufacturing and installation of the insert. From logs of a size similar to the installed logs, elements 1.5-2 mm shorter than the opening are cut out. After treatment and impregnation with an anti-rotten compound, the insert is firmly driven into the opening using a sledgehammer. All cracks will be caulked.

Replacing timber without raising the frame

Major renovations to a house can be done without lifting the frame. The following options are available:

Replacement of destroyed logs. First, the rotten element is removed in parts. To do this, the log is cut into pieces 1-1.5 m long, which are taken out one by one. The technology is no different from the previous method of partial replacement. After removing the entire log, the exact same element is carefully driven into the vacant space and fastened to the adjacent crowns with metal staples.
Replacing a damaged wooden plinth with brickwork. The technology is based on alternately cutting and removing sections of a wooden plinth 1-1.5 m long and replacing it with brickwork 1.5-2 bricks thick. The masonry is brought directly under the remaining lower crown, and waterproofing is laid between them. Gradually moving around the entire perimeter of the house, a complete replacement of the rotten lower parts is ensured. wooden crowns on the brick basement. Next, it is enough to insulate the masonry and plaster it.

Which wood is best suited for the lower crowns of a log house?

During construction wooden house The following types of wood are used:

Spruce. This is one of the most accessible and cheapest materials. Thanks to their loose structure, spruce logs retain heat well. In addition, they have antibacterial abilities. The main disadvantages are low moisture resistance and a tendency to rot, which limits their use in lower crowns.
Pine has a smooth trunk without knots, but in its shortcomings it is similar to spruce.
Birch is considered hard durable material, but it dries out greatly, has high water permeability, a tendency to rot and low durability.
Larch. It has high strength, resistance to microorganisms, and is not subject to rotting. The main advantage is moisture resistance and fairly high fire resistance. Wood is a highly drying species, which requires good drying before construction. The only real drawback is the high cost.
Oak. This wood is distinguished by its strength and durability, high hardness, and resistance to any weather conditions. In terms of resistance to rotting and moisture resistance, oak logs are comparable to larch and have a similar disadvantage.

Taking into account the economic side, wooden houses are most often built from spruce and pine. However, in the lower crowns their use threatens premature major repairs. The best option for making a plinth is larch and oak. Such materials will be more expensive than common tree species, but they are very resistant to moisture and mechanical strength will significantly improve durability.

Attention! The lower crowns of the log house bear the maximum loads, and therefore the diameter of the logs for them should be 15-20% higher larger size elements of the rest of the walls.

What tools are required to complete the work?

When carrying out repairs on your own, you will need the following tools and equipment:

jack for raising the house (1-4 pieces);
Bulgarian;
gasoline or electric saw for cutting logs;
hammer drill for forming a jack installation site on the foundation;
electric drill for installing nigels;
sledgehammer;
hammer;
chisel;
plane;
hacksaw;
scissors for cutting waterproofing;
metal brush;
paint brush;
roulette;
metal ruler;
rail to control the lifting height.

Is it possible to change the bottom beam yourself?

In general, the repair work in question requires a certain skill, significant time and labor costs.

The question is whether it is possible self-replacement the lower crowns of a wooden house are of a purely individual nature. Subject to availability necessary equipment and with enough time, the work associated with lifting the log house can be done with your own hands.

But, if a person has doubts, it is better to invite specialists. In order to carry out repairs correctly and efficiently, you need to take into account some nuances.

When is the best time to do the work?

Repair of the basement of a wooden house must be carried out immediately when damage is detected. In this case, it is possible to do without major repairs and complete replacement of the lower crowns. The work itself cannot be carried out in high humidity and windy weather.

When planning the timing of repair activities, it is necessary to take into account some features of the behavior of wood. In summer, moisture moves deeper into the log, which can cause cracking when drying.

IN winter time The wood's humidity is minimal, and the moisture is frozen out, which ensures uniform shrinkage. In addition, in summer, wood is more sensitive to temperature differences between night and day.

The choice of repair timing should be made taking into account the recommendations given for the construction of a wooden house:

It is better to carry out foundation repairs in the fall, when the air temperature has not yet dropped to sub-zero values. After 2.5-3 weeks, the concrete will gain the required strength, and you can start building the log house.
It is better to carry out work with a wooden frame in winter.
During spring, maximum shrinkage occurs. It is better to wait out this period.
Summer - best option for finishing work.

Important! If the major repair of a wooden house involves raising and strengthening the foundation, as well as replacing the lower crowns of the log house, then work should begin at the end of October-November, taking into account that the completion of the log house repair will take place in December-January.

How can you increase the service life of timber?

The service life of the lower crowns, and therefore the entire wooden house, can be done in the following ways:

Application of high-quality and reliable waterproofing. Such materials include modern euroroofing felt. It is laid on top of the foundation and protects the frame well from below.
Cover board. If there is no financial opportunity to make lower crowns from larch or oak, you can increase the reliability of the base by installing boards made of these materials. It is mounted on top of the foundation waterproofing and has a width of 25-30 cm and a thickness of 6-8 cm.
Wood impregnation folk remedies. It is recommended to use the following substances: copper sulfate, “Finnish mixture” (slaked lime, copper sulfate, table salt, flour); natural wax; spruce resin or birch tar; bitumen; drying oil; oils
Modern, synthetic, impregnating compounds. The following antiseptics are popular: Pinotex, Sadolin, Senezh Ognebio, Tikkurila, Belika.

You can replace the lower crowns in a wooden frame yourself in different ways. It is important to correctly assess their condition and determine the scope of work.

To prevent rapid rotting of wood, it is necessary to protect it from moisture and pests. Preventive measures will help eliminate the need for labor-intensive major repairs.

Quite often we solve problems with floors in private wooden houses for our Customers, be it a complete replacement with insulation, or a change in the finishing floor covering. The main reasons why people turn to us for this are subsidence of floors, violation of the geometry of planes, partial rotting and destruction of floor joists, insufficient or complete absence of insulation (cold floor), etc.

In most cases, the reasons that cause these unpleasant consequences are violations of the technology for installing floors and floor coverings, insufficient or absent ventilation in the underground, proximity to groundwater, low height of the basement of the house and ventilation holes, and the most banal one is saving on the cross-section and number of floor transitions and the thickness of the load-bearing layer (the floors “trampoline”). Everything is solvable, and absolutely any situation can be corrected if you have the desire and the funds. The most important thing is not to let the problem get worse, otherwise the day is not far off when it will be simply dangerous to walk on the floors, and they may even fail completely (we’ve seen this happen too). So, we have sorted out the main reasons for the disruption of functionality. Now let's get down to business.

Dismantling the floor.

The first step when replacing and/or insulating floors with your own hands will definitely be to dismantle the baseboards around the perimeter of the room and the existing floor covering, and, possibly, transfers. No special skills are required here, the main thing is accuracy in work and attentiveness when disassembling, so as not to disrupt communications (mostly electrical wiring and sewerage, possibly plumbing with heating). After all this, the accumulated construction waste should be removed (there will be a lot of it, so prepare a place for its disposal in advance). Often, it is no longer possible to carry long boards and translations through the doors, so we either cut them right in the room (inconvenient, and when using a chainsaw, the smell of exhaust fumes remains) or we feed them through the windows (most often this is what they do).

Device of sexual translations.

In general, if it is necessary to replace the floors, it is rare that the translations are not changed at the same time, because if the covering has already rotted, then load-bearing beams definitely also damaged. Modern technologies laying floors and installing a supporting frame under them necessarily involves treating both beams and subfloor boards with hard-to-wash antiseptics, which significantly reduce the degree of damage to them by fungus, insects and pathogens. The dacha squatters of the last century were rarely puzzled by this, which is also why translations collapsing right in the hands are not a rarity, but rather a pattern. So, be sure to purchase in construction stores antiseptic, and don’t be lazy to treat the wood, this is important.

What else? Organization of proper air exchange in the underground. The main reason why floors and floor joists rot is the lack of proper air exchange. Natural ventilation– the key to the long life of your floors and a healthy indoor climate. Often in private houses on the ground floor there is a persistent smell of mold, especially in spring and autumn. This is the first sign that there are either not enough vents or they are organized incorrectly (there are blind pockets, non-through vents, etc.). Therefore, when major renovation floors, close attention should be paid to this, and, if necessary, errors made during construction should be corrected. It would also be a good idea to check the proper organization of waterproofing of the foundation and the condition of the backfill under the house (most often it is sand, it is possible to fill the subfloor with expanded clay).

Construction and installation of floor joists.

This stage is important in terms of selecting the correct sections load-bearing elements, here all kinds of online and offline beam calculators can help you. The main principle is that the section should be selected with a margin for load; the required lag pitch is mainly selected based on the selected finishing coating (one for a tongue-and-groove board, another for plywood, taking into account the subsequent laying of the laminate, etc.), or based on the width insulation mats. What else should you pay attention to? Floor level. Recently, the main trend in the installation of floors in private wooden houses is the installation of the latter in one level on the entire floor, without level transitions. Accordingly, all the boxes interior doors assembled and installed without thresholds, with the exception of kitchen and bathroom doors. This is undoubtedly more convenient to use.

How to do this? If we are changing the floor in a particular room, then we need to start from the level that already exists in the adjacent one. Here a laser or water level helps us, with the help of which we transfer marks to the corners of the room. After this, we subtract the future thickness of the floors (tongue-and-groove boards from 28 to 45 mm, plywood from 18 to 22 mm, a smaller thickness does not fit from the boards without organizing the flooring), put down new marks - this is the plane of the floor joists. Then we set the outermost joists of the floors according to the marks and secure them. A prerequisite for relying translations on concrete base– waterproofing the contact area.

An independent floor is considered good form when translations are not tied to the walls of the house. They can be mounted on the cheeks of the foundation, or on posts indoors. In this case, it is better if these are not pillars made of foundation blocks or bricks (from practice - without a proper foundation they tilt and do not perform their functions after 3-5 years), but drilled and cast into a sleeve made of asbestos-cement or plastic pipe piles. The location of the piles is individual for each room, we are guided by beam calculators to calculate the deflection and common sense; too many complicate and increase the cost of the whole process.

Let's move on. Now we have something to support the logs on; the outermost ones have already been mounted. Collecting the rest into the system is a matter of technology. You need to tighten the lace along both edges and the middle, and continue installing the floor transfers with the required step, controlling the gaps under the tensioned threads (should be equal and minimal). As a result, we get a flat plane.

We assemble subfloors.

The rough (black) floor is added as an additional layer when insulating floors; most often it is a plank flooring (on cranial bars fixed along inner sides e lag) from edged boards with a cross section of 150x25 or 100x25 mm, pre-treated with an antiseptic. Adds rigidity to the entire floor structure, serves as an additional insulating layer, and protects finishing the floor from moisture, and the whole insulation pie lies on it. How to make subfloors correctly? We will need bars with a cross section of 30x30 mm, and an edged inch board. We screw the cranial block onto the inner sides of the translations and measure the width of the gaps between the joists. We cut the boards to a size slightly smaller than the span, and lay the boards tightly on the bars. Actually, that's all.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house.

It is not difficult to properly insulate the floor in your house with your own hands. The insulation pie, if you follow the technology, consists of subfloors, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, and a vapor barrier. The process itself is simple. We install it on top of the subfloor and the floor joists using a construction stapler. waterproofing membrane, which goes around each translation, we monitor the junctions with the walls, and control its integrity. Then we place the required layer of insulation into the resulting pockets; it is not worth doing less than 100 mm (today there is plenty to choose from on the market, so such anachronisms as shavings with sawdust, glass wool, expanded clay, and fallen leaves have not been used for a long time). The choice of manufacturer is the Customer’s business; we, in turn, most often recommend and use Knauf products in our work. We pass along the walls along the transfers with a roller of insulation, checking the absence of cracks and cold bridges (the junctions of the mats must be covered with the next layer). There are no fundamental differences between roll and briquette insulation in floors; you can use any, it’s a matter of ease of use. We do not recommend using polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam - mice love them very much, and they burn hotly, releasing deadly substances.

The next layer will be a vapor barrier membrane, we also install it using a stapler, making sure that the junctions with the walls and the overlap are observed. After this, you need to organize ventilation between the insulation and the base of the floor; the easiest way is to sew planed thin slats over the joists, fortunately, they are not expensive. We've sorted out the insulation, let's move on.

Plywood flooring under laminate.

In the last few years, when replacing floors in a country house, customers are increasingly choosing laminate as a finishing floor as a finishing floor. The choice is not accidental - the highest performance qualities and a huge variety of colors and textures speak for themselves. Lasts a long time, unpretentious, low price square meter, does not dry out like a tongue-and-groove board, no need to paint - an ideal option. Linoleum? Not quite what you need - it doesn't breathe a little more than completely, the only plus is ease of cleaning and a little more low price, and even then not always. Can be placed in the hallway, kitchen and bathroom.

So, laminate - installation in a country house country house. We need a smooth and durable base that does not “walk” with changes in temperature and humidity. What to choose? Boardwalk made of edged lumber eliminated - the moisture content of the source material is 12-14%, the thickness of the boards is different. OSB sheets, even 12.5 mm thick do not have sufficient rigidity. DSP - let's say, cement in the house, especially on the floor, is never comme il faut. What remains is the plywood. The thickness that suits us starts from 18 mm, better if it is 21 mm. Which one to choose? Definitely it should be birch plywood, since softwood plywood is not strong enough and is more demanding in terms of the frequency of transfers. Grade, everything is also simple here, we don’t need polished of the highest quality, since this is not a finishing coating. Accordingly, you can save a lot of money if you contact the manufacturer or official dealer directly and buy the so-called economy class, which is significantly cheaper, and for our purposes fits perfectly.

The process of laying plywood on ready-made transfers is simple, the most important thing was not to make a mistake during the installation of transfers so that the joints of the sheets fall in the middle of the joists, this is critical. The step-by-step installation of plywood on the floor is as follows:

we check the diagonals of the room, determine the right angle along the walls;
temporarily lay the sheets along the walls, where we have defined a right angle (or its similarity), with the letter G;
we check that the sheets are laid correctly, whether they do not move away from the joint line in the middle of the translation, if necessary, we cut the sheets along the wall to achieve the required result (it is important - only one side is cut along the wall, otherwise all the sheets will have to be cut later);
We provide small gaps near the walls for possible expansion of the plywood;
Then everything is simple, we pre-drill the plywood with a drill of a smaller diameter than the self-tapping screw and fasten it (life hack - we fix the joints of the sheets between the translations with scraps of plywood or boards, which we screw, slipping them under the previous sheet to make a continuous and rigid flooring).

This way we get a flat and rigid base for the subsequent laying of the finishing coating. In this particular case, it was laminate; the baseboards were chosen to match it, plastic. The final result is in the photo.

Video - the process of replacing and insulating floors in a private wooden house.

Technical support for the structure of a wooden house is a prerequisite for extending its service life. One of the most serious problems that necessitate the repair of such buildings is biological damage. It can manifest itself in the form of rotting, fungal development, and so on. Ultimately, replacement of the crowns is required wooden house, otherwise the process will develop and cover the entire load-bearing structure.

Determining the method of repair measures

The nature of the damage may vary depending on external factors exposure, time of destruction and properties of the wood itself. As a rule, in unfavorable conditions, the structure of the crowns begins to rot, after which the processes of mold and mildew development begin, insects appear, etc. The master localizes the damage with defect detection, examines the problem area and determines a method for replacing the rotted crowns of a wooden house in accordance with the severity of the destruction . Experts conditionally distinguish the following methods for restoring the structure of a log frame:

Partial restoration. One crown (or part thereof) is replaced if the damage has not spread to other segments.
Complete dismantling of the frame with reinstallation of the structure. The method is used in cases where a comprehensive revision of the masonry with possible reconstruction of other elements of the house is required.
Replacing logs with brickwork. This method is used only when partially restoring several lower logs. The brick replaces load-bearing belts, but does not form a wall structure as such.
Jacking method. The technology provides for the possibility of lifting the entire house while repairing the foundation base.

There is also a professional approach to replacing the crowns of a wooden house. Cost of work in in this case averages 1-2.5 thousand rubles. for 1 linear meter. Specialists will use metal hangers made specifically to the parameters of the target structure. Using special equipment, masonry repairs of any complexity are carried out in a short period of time.

Technology for partial restoration of crowns

A kind of spot repair, which is justified if there is a small lesion on one log. Work is carried out according to following instructions:

The logs are inspected. Using a chisel, it is necessary to clean the defect area, determining the depth of the damage.
A 50 cm indentation is made on the sides from the affected area. Next, grip units are installed that will allow you to make partial replacement crowns of a wooden house. You can solve this problem with your own hands by screwing wooden ties to a height of up to 3 logs. This is done both from the outside and from the inside.
Use a jigsaw or chainsaw to carefully remove the damaged area of wood.
The cutting is carried out at the sampling site. Installation is carried out using the tongue-and-groove technique using a previously prepared piece of log.
The final fixation of the insert is done with dowels.

Method of replacing crowns with brickwork

Use this method possible if two conditions are met. First, replacement must be planned for whole logs. Secondly, one of the replaced crowns must be the lowest one - connecting the foundation with the frame. Segments are removed by knocking out. Use a sledgehammer to remove all damaged logs from the masonry. Supporting elements are installed on the resulting space from the sides - short metal racks, stonework or similar substitutes.

Next, the foundation surface is cleared for the future replacement of the lower crown of the wooden house. You can do waterproofing yourself by laying roofing felt or a rigid film water barrier. Then, from the central part in an empty place, brick laying is done on cement mortar. As the gap is filled, the side supports are removed. The seams and joints are filled with the same solution, and after it hardens, it will not be a bad idea to use a sealant to eliminate small gaps.

Preparing the house for jacking

If you are planning a comprehensive replacement of the crowns, then you cannot do without using a jack. The difficulty of using it is that the structure of the house will be distorted during the work. Therefore it is required special training:

All furniture, appliances, household utensils and other items with materials are removed.
Openings are cleared of frames, sashes, windows and doors.
If you plan to replace the crowns in a wooden house with a floor system of logs integrated into the frame, then it should be disconnected from the walls.
Stoves, fireplaces and other structures connected to the foundation are disconnected from the structure of the house.

Rules for installing jacks

First you need to calculate and mark the installation points of the jacks. Under them, crowns are cut in accordance with the dimensions of the instrument. Sometimes excavations are made to install jacks, but even in these cases a rigid load-bearing support made of concrete block or metal shield. At a minimum, replacing crowns in a wooden house will require the use of 4 jacks. Accordingly, they are placed at the corner nodes of the convergence of the crowns on opposite sides. But it is very important to maintain a technological distance of 1 m from the location of the tool to the immediate corner of the house.

Technique for replacing crowns

The process of replacing logs using jacks is as follows:

Together with the upper rim, the jacks smoothly lower down. The dressing log is removed.
To update the upper segments of the lower crown, two logs are removed. To ensure the tightness of the convergence of wood elements, new wood Initially, it should be carefully processed and filed strictly according to the size of the insert.
The upper segment is placed on jacks, and its upper part is caulked. Machining operations are also performed during the process of replacing the lower crowns. Repairing a wooden house with caulk and impregnation on the adjacent surfaces of the crowns will not be possible after the installation of new elements.
The jacks are lifted all the way - the new segment should lie tightly on the upper counter log in the crown system.
The jacks are lifted along with the entire structure, after which the previously installed supports are removed.
If necessary, the foundation, opened from the upper side, is repaired.

Features of replacing crowns in a frame house

IN general outline The replacement technology corresponds to the repair of a conventional log house, but there are differences. First of all, a special approach to handling the jack is required. Before lifting, both the lower crown and the window openings are strengthened with the help of racks. The jack itself is installed in a special recess at the foundation level. As a rule, repairing a wooden house with replacing crowns in a frame structure involves updating the lower tier. This is a support beam that performs a load-bearing function. So that it can be replaced without damaging the house, the wall sheathing is also initially removed.

At the first inspection, a comprehensive examination of the house should be carried out, recording the slightest signs of biological damage. Small lesions can be treated with special protective agents without installation operations.
Work should not be carried out in bad weather, in winter and during periods of high rainfall.
Special attention is given to the selection of new embedded segments. It is advisable that the crowns be replaced with larch logs. With proper care and treatment, this material can last up to 50 years.
It is important to observe safety precautions by not placing your arms and legs under the raised structure.

Conclusion

Repairing the structure of a log house or frame house is a responsible undertaking that requires special skills. Knowing the intricacies of the repair process, you can carry out a small-scale reconstruction yourself. However, large-scale events require the participation of professionals. As already mentioned, the cost of replacing the lower crowns of a wooden house is 1-2.5 thousand rubles. per running meter. This figure can be increased if both are ordered additional services, which are also not worth saving on. For example, professional caulking with sealing and stripping of the crowns can extend the service life of logs by several years. Another thing is that such operations will need to be performed periodically, regardless of the repair of damaged crowns.

Replacing a wooden floor with a reinforced concrete one

Any structure consists of several basic elements: foundation, ceiling, roof and walls. Distinctive feature wooden floors is the emerging need to replace them. This is due to the minimum service life. If the service life of foundations, walls and covers made of reinforced concrete is almost the same, then wooden structures are in use for about 50 years.

Relevance of replacement

Most of the buildings and structures that need repair work ah and were built a long time ago, have wooden interfloor ceilings. After a certain period of time, such structures lose their quality and functional properties, so a need for change arises.

The solution to the pressing issue of old buildings is to abandon wood. Buildings with wooden floors in most cases have a small number of floors and thick and powerful load-bearing walls. Some buildings are of historical value and act as museums.

After analyzing the house, experts decide which floor to replace the wooden one with: protective structure from reinforced concrete slabs or reinforced concrete, representing a monolith.

A brief excursion into history

Structures are divided into monolithic and prefabricated. Monolithic structures were used to a limited extent until the mid-90s of the last century. This was due to the lack of:

special mechanisms and equipment that allow delivering concrete mixture to a structure under construction;
reversible formwork.
Since the 50s of the 20th century, construction technologies have implied the use of prefabricated reinforced concrete structures.

Operating principles

The basis for replacing wooden floors with a practical reinforced concrete structure is the use of beams. Their ends are laid in load-bearing enclosing structures. And also in existing recesses in which old beams were located or in open additional holes.

In almost all structures in which there is a need to replace floors, load-bearing walls represent longitudinal vertical enclosing structures located in parallel. Therefore, when creating a project or repair plan, it is necessary to take into account the distribution of the load on these walls.

Using a monolithic structure for these works is not advisable. Since in order to obtain the necessary support on the walls, there is a need to create holes along their entire total length, which leads to a weakening of the wall structure.

The prefabricated ceiling consists of a complex of transverse beams, blocks located between these elements, and a reinforced monolith. An important element of formwork work has a rectangular base made of lightweight reinforced concrete and an upper base made of reinforcement.

For a single floor, they use, taking into account the load on load-bearing walls, wide-profile standard profiles - I-beams or metal profiles, characterized by ease.

Characteristics of the building materials used:

profiles of steel products;
brand and type of concrete;
thickness of reinforced concrete coating;
other parameters.

They are determined when creating a project before the start of major construction and repair work, taking into account the condition of the structure, operating features and the main repurposing of the structure.

The work must be entrusted to competent and qualified specialists. Our company has extensive experience and is focused on potential clients, so we guarantee high quality offered current and in-demand services.

Replacement wooden structures on reinforced concrete floors helps to significantly strengthen the structural system of the entire structure and increase the capability indicator. We will help make your home more sustainable.

Repair apartments , suburban houses , roof, foundations, fences, fencing, autonomous gasification, private sewerage, finishing facades, systems water supply from wells and boreholes, professional modern boiler rooms For private houses And enterprises.

Publication tags of the Design-Presige company.