Externally similar to a slab foundation, the ground floor structure is less massive and cheaper to manufacture. Instead of two reinforcing mesh, one wire mesh is used; stiffeners are needed only under heavy partitions. Ground flooring is not load-bearing structure, is created exclusively for the installation of floor coverings.
Layer-by-layer scheme of the floor on the ground.
The classic scheme of a concrete floor on the ground contains a correct and complete pie of several layers with insulation:
- sand;
- geotextiles;
- layer of crushed stone 0.4 m;
- footing;
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- a concrete screed with a wire mesh in its lower third, separated from the base, grillage or foundation by a damper tape around the perimeter.
Depending on the layout of the building, soil conditions and compliance with technology, the composition of the floor on the ground may vary. For example, sand and geotextiles are not needed on coarse sandy soil.
The footing can be replaced with a leveling layer of sand on top of crushed stone. To reduce the construction budget, the foundation is often not poured under the partitions, so stiffening ribs reinforced with reinforcement frames appear in the floors along the ground. In any case, before starting the production of a floating screed, it is necessary to prepare the existing foundation and plan it at a single horizontal level.
Preparing the base
Despite the fact that concrete is the strongest structural material, soil heaving and foundation subsidence are dangerous for screeds. Therefore, the arable layer in the building spot should be completely removed: black soil or gray soil is saturated with organic matter, which will rot, after which the entire pie will sag, unevenly in individual areas, cracks will open in the screed, or the concrete floor will collapse along the ground.
For communications, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope, bring them outside the foundation and near the walls inside the house.
Wiring of engineering systems.
Important! The correct ground floor is made in the form of a floating screed, separated from the elements of foundations and plinths by a damper layer. It is forbidden to rest the slab on protruding parts of these structures.
Separating layer
To avoid mutual mixing of the layers of the floor pie on the ground with the soil of the base, the pit is lined non-woven material(geotextile or dornite). The edges of the separating layer web are launched at lateral surface and pressed against a brick, wall blocks. Additional function geotextile is to prevent weed roots from growing through a concrete floor on the ground during operation.
Advice! Geotextiles with a density of 100 g/m2 or more can be laid under a floating screed, since the structure is considered not responsible, unlike slab foundations, which will require needle-punched material with a density of 200 g/m 2 or more.
Substrate
The concrete floor layer on the ground must rest on a hard layer to avoid soil subsidence. Therefore, depending on the ground conditions, non-metallic materials are used:
Less commonly used natural soil(coarse sand or gravelly soil). If the developer still has expanded clay after dismantling the building or this material is cheaper in the region than crushed stone, this material is also suitable as an underlying layer.
Advice! A prerequisite is high-quality compaction of every 15 cm of the underlying layer with a vibrating plate or manual tamper. It is not recommended to spill sand with water; the material should be moistened with a watering can before backfilling and compaction.
Footing
The classic floor pie on concrete soil includes a concrete screed made from a thin B7.5 mixture. It is necessary to solve several problems:
However, to reduce the construction budget, the concrete base is replaced with other technologies:
Important! The footing is not reinforced, but is necessarily separated from the elements of the foundation or plinth along the perimeter by a damping layer (pieces of polystyrene foam on an edge or a special tape).
Waterproofing and insulation
At the next stage, the cake must be insulated from moisture, prevent heat loss in the floors and preserve geothermal heat under the building. For this, waterproofing and insulation are used. Their mutual arrangement inside the pie design is the following:
The main mistake developers make is laying a vapor barrier over expanded polystyrene:
- the air temperature in the room is always higher than in the ground under the screed (true for heated rooms);
- therefore, when laying flooring that does not have vapor barrier properties (floorboards, parquet, cork covering), the direction of steam will always be from top to bottom;
- the vapor barrier membrane will accumulate moisture on the surface, inside the cake, at the insulation/concrete interface;
- the screed will collapse and the wire mesh inside will corrode.
Apart from an unreasonable increase in the construction budget, this scheme does not provide any advantages. The accumulation of harmful gas - radon under the floors on the ground is impossible, since there is no underground in this design.
The following materials can be used as waterproofing:
- built-up rolls - Technonikol, Gidrostekloizol, Bikrost or roofing felt;
- film - made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene;
- membranes – have high density and strength, can be laid without making a concrete base.
- Admix mixture - an additive is added to concrete during mixing, the structural material becomes moisture-proof;
- Penetron - the floor on the ground is processed AFTER concreting, the effect is similar to the previous one.
These waterproofing materials also do not require a footing.
Of all existing insulation materials the best option for the floor on the ground, high-density extruded polystyrene foam of the XPS or EPS grades (for example, Penoplex) is used. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the operating region, ranging from 5 to 20 cm. The sheets are laid with mixing joints in adjacent rows, large gaps are filled with polyurethane foam with similar properties.
Damper layer
Floors on the ground are prohibited from being rigidly connected to the elements of the plinth or foundation, so along the perimeter it is necessary to install polystyrene foam strips on the edge, pressing them against the vertical enclosing structures. However, more often a special damping tape made of latex, rubber or foamed polymers with an adhesive layer is glued to the walls.
Important! The height of the cutting layer should be slightly higher than the thickness of the floating screed. After the concrete has hardened, the material is cut off with a knife, and the junction points are decorated with plinths after laying the floor covering.
Floating screed
The main nuances of concreting a floor on the ground are:
- It is recommended to fill in one step;
- areas larger than 50 m2 (relevant for studio rooms, sheds and garages) should be separated by a special corner to create expansion joints;
- internal load-bearing walls and heavy partitions must be erected on a separate foundation;
- partitions made of gypsum plasterboard/gypsum plasterboard must be partially erected so that when the screed dries, moisture is not absorbed into the plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheet, destroying these materials;
- It is preferable to pour along plaster beacons or profiles for gypsum plasterboard systems installed in a single horizontal level on quick-drying putty solutions;
- screed thickness 5 - 20 cm, depending on operational loads and the planned floor covering, as well as the need to install underfloor heating pipes.
Partial construction of plasterboard partitions is carried out using the following technology:
- installation of racks and horizontal jumpers;
- covering them at the joints of the floor on the ground with strips of plasterboard 10–20 cm high along the entire length.
For flooring on the ground, you can use ready-mixed concrete B12.5 and higher; the filler is gravel, dolomite or granite crushed stone. The screed is reinforced at the lower level with wire mesh.
Important! If the technology is broken, heavy partitions are planned to be supported on a screed; in the places where they pass, stiffening ribs are needed, which are created by analogy with the USHP slab (insulated Swedish floating foundation slab).
Floor reinforcement on the ground
The industry produces welded wire mesh BP in accordance with GOST 8478 from 5 mm wire with a square cell of 10 - 20 cm. Do-it-yourself knitting on site is more expensive due to high flow knitting wire and increased labor intensity. The grids are laid using the following technology:
Unlike reinforcing mesh, wire cards have much less rigidity; walking on them when laying the mixture is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the following methods are used:
- ladders - halves of bricks are placed in the mesh cells, on which boards rest, which are moved along with spacers as the structure is ready;
- “paths” - concrete is piled from the entrance of the room to the far corner, after which you can walk along these paths without shifting the grid.
IN small rooms Typically, grid maps of appropriate size are used. If the room has a complex configuration, additional pieces need to be cut. In this case and when reinforcing large areas, the overlap of cards/rolls is at least one cell.
Stiffening ribs under the partitions
To create stiffening ribs under the partitions, intermittent laying of extruded polystyrene foam or its top layer is used. Reinforcing frames made of square clamps (smooth reinforcement 4–6 mm) and longitudinal rods (“corrugated” 8–12 mm) are placed into the resulting voids.
Heated floor contours
To reduce energy consumption in the heating boiler and increase living comfort, heated floors are used. Their contours can be embedded in the screed by laying the pipes directly on the reinforcing mesh.
To connect to the collectors, the underfloor heating pipes are routed outside near the wall. In this place they must be covered with damper tape. A similar expansion joint technology is required for all communications passing through the screed (heating risers, hot water supply/hot water supply).
Thus, the composition of the floor on the ground can be modified depending on the construction budget and specific operational and soil conditions.
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Any owner of a private home has encountered a heating problem. Especially important element heating are the floors. Proper floors do not allow dampness into the house and retain heat in it for a long time. Recently, ground floors have been rapidly gaining popularity.
They are effective because they are practical, reliable and relatively inexpensive. If during construction it is not planned basement, then on the ground in a private house - one of best options thermal insulation.
This structure is built directly on the ground, taking into account all its unevenness and will help prevent cold from entering from its surface. This option is far from the simplest, but it can be implemented independently, without hiring workers or equipment.
Such floors have nothing to do with baking. They are called "pies" due to the fact that their thermal insulation has many layers and they look slightly like a layer cake. If you still decide to build, then keep in mind that heated floors on the ground require some measurements.
For example, groundwater should not be too high, because this will cause your “pie” to “float”. You should also make sure that the soil is strong enough, because the entire structure can simply settle. You should also remember that the “pie” reduces the height of the room, and dismantling such a structure is a difficult task, so everything must be done correctly the first time.
Preparing the base
The structure of your structure includes several layers, and therefore several stages too.
Do not proceed to the next stage without completely completing the previous one.
The first thing we must do is prepare the foundation directly on the ground itself. To do this you need:
- remove a layer of soil. This must be done necessarily, because the fertile layer is usually loose, and the remains of vegetation can then begin to rot and decompose - this will cause bad smell, and it will be impossible to stay in the room. The floor pie requires about 20 centimeters, or even more (depending on the region).
Tip: measure each level and calculate how deep the soil needs to be removed. Leave marks on each level to make it easier to navigate;
- remove all debris and stones. This is also very important, because one unnoticed pebble can cause unevenness;
- The remaining clean soil should be leveled and compacted. This must be done very evenly - according to the level.
Separating layer
To prevent anything from moving apart, the base of the pit must be lined with geotextile or dornite. It is better to choose the first one, because it also protects against weed germination.
The correct underfloor heating pie must be separated from parts of the foundation and plinth (the lower part of the building wall lying on the foundation) with a special layer. It is strictly forbidden to rest the slab on protruding parts of the structure.
The correct floor should be made in the form of a floating screed.
Substrate
Further, some variability is allowed. To ensure that the floors do not settle properly on the ground, there are several installation options. The underlying layer must be selected taking into account the height of groundwater, expected loads, the same looseness of the soil, and so on.
Most often, a concrete layer is used - this is the most reliable and proven option. But there are cases when it is impossible to use concrete, then the following materials can be used:
- sand. It is used exclusively on dry soils to avoid water absorption through small holes in the sand. It is noteworthy that such a process can occur even in cases where dew forms on the surface. It will also be more difficult with sand because it needs to be compacted perfectly evenly, again, this needs to be done with the help of a level;
- crushed stone Crushed stone works well when high level groundwater. Capillary suction is completely impossible in the crushed stone layer. Laying should also occur evenly;
- natural soil. It is used quite rarely and is most often coarse sand or gravelly soil (soil containing grains larger than 2 mm, but less than 50 mm). It will do if not groundwater, no particular looseness of the soil is observed.
- expanded clay This will do too.
Mineral wool slabs will be an excellent insulation material ( thermal insulation material, which is made from mineral wool and a synthetic binder). They have a high density, are quite strong and live a long time. Such slabs are laid in two layers; they can be vulnerable to moisture, so they need to be treated with a water-repellent substance.
Footing
Whatever bonding material you use, you will still need a footing. You'll need a skinny one concrete mixture B 7.5. We remind you that lean concrete is concrete in which the content of cement and water is reduced and the content of filler is increased.
This material is much “weaker” than its “fat” counterpart, but at the same time cheaper. In our case, it is not advisable to use a stronger concrete composition.
The footing is not reinforced, but must be separated from the base or parts of the foundation. Pieces of foam plastic or special tape are suitable for this.
If you want to further reduce the cost of laying a floor on the ground, you can use saturation of the upper layers of crushed stone with cement laitance. The resulting crust should be perfectly smooth and its depth should be several centimeters. This trick will help make a waterproof concrete crust.
Waterproofing and insulation
Finally we got to waterproofing and insulation. At this stage it is necessary to isolate yourself from moisture. We will do this at the expense waterproofing film or a special membrane. Lay the film overlapping, and seal the cracks at the joints with construction tape.
The first thing you need to put is waterproofing material, not thermal insulation.
Use a layer of expanded polystyrene foam or dense polystyrene as insulation. You can also use special plates, but we recommend doing this only if the load on the surface of the structure is large.
You can choose the thickness of the layer yourself depending on climatic conditions region, it is usually from 5 to 20 centimeters. Fill joints and cracks with construction foam.
Lay another layer on top of the resulting “sandwich” waterproofing material or just roofing felt. This is not necessary, but if you live in a humid region with high groundwater– it’s better to play it safe.
Damper layer
Lay a damper tape over the walls, which will be slightly higher than the planned thickness of the screed. This is necessary in order to isolate the future screed from load-bearing elements foundation or plinth.
We remind you: the floor on the ground is strictly prohibited from being rigidly connected to the elements of the base.
Instead of tape, you can use strips of polystyrene foam, which also need to be laid a little higher. The excess pieces can then be trimmed off.
Floating screed
This screed performs several functions at once: it produces thermal insulation and sound insulation at the same time. The design feature of this screed is that the solution is placed on the surface of the insulation, and not on the base.
Well, or on a layer of roofing felt, if you covered the insulation on top with it. Here's what you need to pay attention to:
- It is advisable to do everything at once. IN large rooms This will not be possible, so separate the finished and unfinished areas with partitions. This will create expansion joint and will help the screed to fully grasp;
- if possible, pour along the plaster beacons;
- The thickness of the screed should not exceed 20 centimeters, the minimum – not less than 5. Focus on the expected operational loads and the type of future floor covering.
Floor reinforcement on the ground
Reinforcement – important stage, which will help strengthen the concrete screed. The metal mesh will also serve to secure the pipes on it.
The reinforcing mesh should be a wire with cells square shape thickness from 5 to 10 centimeters. Depending on the design features thickness may vary.
The mesh is laid as follows:
- There is a protective layer underneath – a polymer material. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1.5 - 3 centimeters.
- mesh installation;
- installation special beacons(in small rooms this is not necessary);
- pouring the mixture.
Walking on unhardened mixture is not advisable; it is better to install special paths along which you will move. Even when the mixture is taken, it is better to continue walking along these paths, metal mesh has a much lower density and can bend under the weight of a person.
Stiffening ribs under the partitions
In order for the warm water floor to hold better, it needs to be strengthened. This is done due to stiffening ribs. To create them, material is placed under the partitions, which consists entirely of closed small cells.
The material must be laid intermittently, and the resulting voids must be used for laying reinforcement. Thus, it should turn out that the entire structure is evenly reinforced with reinforcing bars.
Heated floor contours
For even greater savings, you can install it in a warm floor on the ground, this will create a literally warm floor. Reinforced mesh has just suitable sizes to place a heating pipe on it.
To connect to the collectors, the pipes are led outside near the walls. The walls must be covered with protective tape. As for all other communications, they require a similar system.
After the final filling of the “pie” everything will be ready. Then you are free to make the floor the way you want. This design is just one of possible options, if you wish, you can modify any of its elements. It all depends on your finances and construction conditions.
Video: heated floor pie on the ground
The installation of a heated floor is considered complex in itself. engineering problem. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the step-by-step design.
Laying heated floors on the ground is a complex engineering undertaking. This means that the performer bears responsibility not only for efficiency and long term heating system service, but also for the normal behavior of the floor covering under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the recommendations for device technology.
Which pipes are suitable for heated floors?
The first thing you need to do is decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue of acquisition is being resolved the right type products, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know the pipe fastening system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.
So, let's start by discarding pipes that do not have this intended purpose, as use in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipe. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter conduct heat poorly and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.
Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It could be reinforcement mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installation in this way over an area of 100 m2 or more, or if suddenly several ties come off during the process of pouring concrete. Therefore, a mounting base or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.
The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.
Finally, we decide on the pipe material. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the installation technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.
Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubes are easy to install; for soldering you will need a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper the best way manifests itself in “fast” underfloor heating systems, which operate in parallel with radiators, but not on an ongoing basis. The bending of copper tubes is carried out according to a template; therefore, their fracture is extremely unlikely.
Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically unbreakable, but installation will require a special crimping tool. Polyethylene can have different densities, but not lower than 70% is recommended. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists the diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of such length can entrain significant volumes of oxygen from the external environment.
Soil preparation
When installing a heated floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But this data is important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, the earthen floor is deepened and not sacrificing the height of the room.
IN general case the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in the horizontal plane, the layer of geotextile is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases ASG is used for this.
After careful manual compaction of the backfill, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. In order to additional thermal insulation this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the pie plus about another 10-15 mm.
Choice of insulation
A water-heated floor pie consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. The insulation itself is subject to a fairly narrow range of requirements.
Compressive strength is mainly standardized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is typical that the minimum thickness of the slab is 40 mm, while when constructing a reflective screen made of EPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.
Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require waterproofing. Many may be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).
The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10-15 mm of EPS or 60 mm of mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values should be increased by 50%.
Preparatory and accumulating screeds
It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and any movement or vibration is excluded. Concrete floor preparation is leveled preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If used mineral wool, the concrete preparation must first be coated with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.
The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but to adjust the inertia of the heated floor, you can freely “play” with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.
The top layer of the screed, subject to heating, is poured after fencing the walls with damper tape. For convenience, pouring the accumulating screed can be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15-20 mm is poured with reinforcement with a sparse mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting surface and attach the pipe installation system; the remainder is poured to the level of the zero mark, minus the thickness of the floor covering.
1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel backfill; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - water vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 — reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - floor covering; 10 - damper tape
System installation, proportions and loop pitch
Laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a pre-designed diagram drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate turn of the loop.
The same principle applies when zoning the floor. For example, in play area the tubes can be laid in more frequent increments, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual rectangular coil, depending on the heating priority, the tubes can be laid either as a snake, or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the flow, the lower its temperature; on average, there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50-80 meters.
The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser laying is possible using a “snail” pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to maintain a distance equal to 20-30 times the diameter of the tube. You also need to make adjustments for the thickness of the accumulating screed and the desired rate of heating of the floor.
The installation system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the layer concrete preparation Accordingly, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% greater than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.
When laying the pipe, you should create an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all the hinges are secured in the mounting system, they are checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, it is poured upper layer accumulating screed.
Including heated floors in the heating system
It is recommended to lay whole sections of pipe without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be led either to local collectors or led directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is a short distance from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.
The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the manifold assembly. Each of the outlets is supplied shut-off valves, installed on the supply tubes Ball Valves with a red flywheel, on the return - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is required for emergency shutdown a separate loop, its purging or washing.
An example of a diagram for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 — expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet for underfloor heating
The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators; two-pipe and combined schemes inclusions. In addition to the thermostat collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the coolant in the supply of about 35-40 ºС.
The effectiveness of underfloor heating depends on several factors. One of the main ones is a properly laid warm water floor cake. A pie is a diagram of the layers it consists of.
There are several options for making a pie:
- on the ground, in this case a cement screed () is always placed on top of the pipes ();
- on lags or on wooden base– the screed is not poured;
- on a concrete slab: you can make a floor with or without a screed.
The thickness of the warm water floor cake is from 5 to 15 centimeters.
Initially, you need to prepare and level the surface of the base. Sweep away the dirt, assess the condition concrete slab. When installing heated floors, the permissible height difference is half a centimeter ().
If more, the base needs to be leveled. This can be done either using a rough screed (sand concrete, concrete M300), or by scattering sand over the surface and leveling it.
Next you should lay the waterproofing. Will do polyethylene film. You need to cover the entire surface of the floor with film and place it on the walls to the height of the future screed. Adjacent strips are laid with an overlap of about ten centimeters, and the joints are glued with mounting tape.
Strengthen along the walls at the junction with the floor damper tape. It is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete, otherwise the screed will crack when heated.
The tape is placed so that it ends up a couple of centimeters above the surface of the screed. You can fasten it with hardware or put it on a self-adhesive layer.
If the area of the room is very large and at least one wall is longer than 8 meters, an additional expansion joint is installed in the middle perpendicular to the long wall.
In this case, the pipe laying scheme must include at least two circuits: they are placed on both sides of the damper without crossing the tape.
Lay thermal insulation. To create this layer, you can use PPS, cork backing, or EPPL. For water floors, it is not advisable to choose basalt wool due to its hygroscopicity.
If you still choose it, you need to lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation. Convenient option thermal insulation – profile mats from PPS: between the wave crests or bosses there are already ready-made channels for laying the pipe.
Video of warm water floor cake.
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Classmates
Heating methods frame house quite diverse, but all have their drawbacks.
One of them is low efficiency.
Since heat sources - radiators, convectors or other devices - cover certain area, which causes uneven heat distribution. The most successful method in this regard is installation, which evenly and completely heats the entire area of the room.
Structurally, it is an extended heat source, evenly distributed over the area of the room and protected on top by a layer of screed. In this case, the type and material of the floor covering plays a significant role in the quality of its work. The higher the thermal conductivity, the less losses and the higher the efficiency of the heated floor.
Both systems operate in the same way general methodology using heaters that transfer heat floor covering. The only difference is in the design of the heating source and installation of the system. In both cases, warm floors under tiles can be made with your own hands without any problems.
Water
Device
A water heated floor is a system of pipelines installed in a system of layers of a heated floor cake.
This requires laying pipes with hot water“snake”, evenly covering the entire area of the room.
Water heating is carried out either autonomously, using a boiler (for example, or), or connected to the central heating system, if possible. Characteristic feature This design has a softer heating mode compared to electric, the water temperature does not exceed 70-80 degrees, which is fire safe, but quite sufficient for heating, given the radiation area.
Another feature is high thermal inertia; after switching off, such a floor cools down slowly. At the same time, laying a warm floor under the tiles with your own hands in this situation is not particularly difficult.
Pie
Solving the question of how to properly lay a heated floor under the tiles begins with proper arrangement pirogue.
The tile water floor pie includes the following layers:
- Rough floor.
- A layer of insulation that eliminates unproductive losses - heating the subfloor.
- Waterproofing film.
- MAC mesh.
- Heated floor pipes.
- Screed layer.
- Tile.
This cake composition is most suitable for concrete subfloor, since for wooden structures the composition of the pie changes:
- Subfloor (plank flooring).
- The sheathing, as thick as the diameter of the pipes, provides a gutter to keep the pipes safe.
- Heated floor pipes.
- Cement strainer.
- Tile.
For wooden subfloor structures, there is no point in laying a layer of thermal insulation, since the structure itself wooden floor, in fact, is a continuous heat-insulating layer, and board flooring has good heat-insulating properties. It is these moments that determine the thickness of the warm floor under the tiles.
Tools and materials
To work you will need:
- Pipes (preferably metal-plastic).
- Connecting fittings.
- Self-adhesive tape.
- Reinforcement mesh.
- Cement, ready-made composition for screed.
- Tiles, tile adhesive.
- Waterproofing film.
- Hacksaw for metal.
- Sharp knife.
- Hammer, pliers, mixing container cement composition etc.
You may need much more tools, it all depends on their availability, on the accepted work scheme and on the skills of the master. At the same time, warm floors under tiles: technology and specifics will directly depend on these factors.
Laying
Laying tiles on a heated floor is based on simple principles. The work stages look like this:
- The area of the room is divided into zones maximum area 40 sq. m. It is especially important if the room has complex geometry, forcing the use of division to obtain simpler sections. This is necessary for more good choice placement of pipes - snake or snail.
- A layer of insulation is laid. For the best quality work, it is best to use extruded polystyrene; it does not allow water or steam to pass through, and is an excellent heat insulator. In addition, it is quite tough and durable material.
- A layer of waterproofing is laid - best of all, polyethylene film. It will not allow water from the screed to seep between the insulation boards and will cut off the steam that seeps through the screed when the heated floor is turned off.
- Laying the MAK reinforcing mesh, which protects the insulation and waterproofing during installation and pouring of the screed.
- Pipeline installation. Sections of pipes are attached to the mesh to fix the position. Do not fasten it too tightly; temperature deformations are possible.
- Corrugated inserts are attached to compensate for thermal expansion, the pipeline is connected to water and pressurized. (At a minimum, it can be kept filled with water for several days).
- Filling the screed. At this time, the pipes must be under operating pressure.
- The screed is allowed to dry, after which the tiles are laid on it.
Attention! Do-it-yourself installation of a heated floor under tiles on a wooden base is approximately the same, only instead of laying insulation, slats are placed on the floor, forming recesses for placing “snake” zigzags.
Useful video
Visually familiarize yourself with the basic rules for laying heated floors in the video below:
conclusions
Installing a heated floor under tiles requires a preliminary study of the operating features of the selected type of heater, checking the condition of the electrical networks or the ability of the boiler to circulate water at the required temperature. All work can be carried out only after careful calculation of all parameters and the presence of a positive result, guaranteeing the successful operation of the system.
If possible, you should consult with specialists (you can online) about any unclear points and clarify all the details. Such preparation will help to do all the work efficiently, without errors or miscalculations and will ensure comfort and warmth in the house.
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