How to correctly determine and mark the distance between corrugated fence posts. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands - step-by-step instructions Optimal distance between fence posts made of corrugated sheets

Every sane owner land plot tries to protect the legal territory from the encroachments of ill-wishers. As a fence, a fence is constructed, which is built from various materials.

The choice of materials on the modern construction market is huge, but you can choose profiled sheets as a simple and reliable one. Visually it is beautiful and does not require special care. Before constructing this type of fence, it is necessary to take into account many nuances and recommendations.

Profiled sheet

Profiled sheet- this is a sheet of thin metal that has longitudinal recesses (corrugation) various depths and can be coated with a special paint and varnish composition. Depending on the consumer purpose, it has different thickness and length.

The sheet can be used as roofing, wall, and facade finishing material.

Corrugation height ranges from 10 to 114 mm. Low height (10 – 20mm) is used for finishing walls and fences. Average heights (20-60mm) are intended for roofing works. High profiles (60 – 114mm) are required for the construction of formwork (foundation).

Sheet manufacturers provide the opportunity to select a protective coating layer for it. This means that the sheet can be painted with a special paint (polymer) in any color or remain galvanized.

The classification of profiled sheets occurs according to their purpose, the presence of a protective coating and the quality of the blank material.

Destination types:

N– the sheet is intended for flooring.
NS– the sheet is intended for flooring and wall fencing.
WITH– the sheet is intended only for wall decoration.

Material for the original workpiece:

Galvanized thin sheets.
Thin sheet metal coated with aluminum-zinc coating.
Thin-sheet aluminized rolled products with silicon coating.
Thin sheet metal with zinc coating.

Availability of protective paint coating:

Galvanized sheets with a silver tint.
The sheets are covered with paint in different colors.

Advantages of a fence made of corrugated sheets

The material has a low cost compared to brick or oak picket fence.
Visual appeal, because from the outside it looks monolithic.
Fast installation.
During the construction process, the use of heavy equipment will not be required.
Possibility to choose the shade of the sheets.
Profiled sheets will last at least 8 - 10 years without additional repairs.
From sheets you can make not only a fence, but also a wicket or gate.
Minimum number of components for installation.

Required tools and materials

The tools you will need are:

Grinder with a circle for metal 1.5 mm thick.
Metal scissors.
Long carrying capacity with the ability to connect to a 220 V network.
Drill and screwdriver.
Hex adapter for combination with the heads of special self-tapping screws.
Bayonet and pick-up shovel.
Sledgehammer.
Manual tamping.
Roulette and building level.
Welding machine and electrodes.

Necessary materials:

Profiled sheets.
Round metal pipe (diameter 100 mm, thickness 5 - 6 mm) or square profile (10 × 10 cm, wall thickness 5 mm).
Rectangular metallic profile 20×40 mm with a thickness of 2 – 2.5 mm.
It is possible to use concrete and rubble stone to strengthen the pillars.
Special self-tapping screws with rubber waterproofing gasket.

Installing a corrugated fence with your own hands

The construction of the fence must take place in stages, which includes:

Accurate marking of terrain and locations for support pillars.
Installation of pillars.
Installation of logs between pillars.
Attaching metal sheets to the frame.
Installation of gates or wickets.

Perimeter marking

Along the entire length of the future fence, marks are placed on the ground for support posts, both for the fence and for the gate or wicket. This can be done by driving wooden pegs into the ground or simply pouring a pile of sand.

When marking, it is necessary that the marks are located at the corners of the fence and in places of possible bends (changes in the straight direction). To ensure that the pillars are in the same plane, a nylon thread is stretched between the corner pegs, which will later serve as a guide for the intermediate pegs.

Installation of support pillars

Initial stage installing pillars (supports) in the ground involves digging holes, but not all of them in a row, but those in which the main (guide) supports will be installed. This corner places and places of bends. The depth of the pits should be at least 1.2 - 1.5 m and a width of 15 - 20 cm, which contributes to the stability of the pillars under various types of influence on them (mechanical or natural interference).

Next, pour into the bottom of the hole a little coarse crushed stone and compacted. After this, you need to measure the depth of the hole and transfer (mark) this indicator to the surface round pipe or square profile. To the indicated length it is necessary to add the height of the corrugated sheet and add 2 - 3 cm, which will subsequently serve as the lower gap between the soil and the sheet (natural ventilation).

When all the marks have been made, an unnecessary section is cut off from the total length of the profile with a grinder.

Having prepared the profile for installation, it is placed in a hole and 1/3 of the depth of the hole is filled with crushed stone. A layer of pre-prepared concrete is poured on top of it. During pouring, it is necessary to monitor the vertical level of the post. According to this scheme, all other corner pillars are installed, but at the same time, monitoring their height relative to the ground.

To avoid discrepancies in performance, a rope is stretched between their tops, which should show a horizontal zero mark when checking it with a building level.

When the main pillars are installed, you should proceed with the installation of intermediate pillars according to the same principle. Stretched auxiliary guide ropes guarantee correct location pillars and their surface height. In order to prevent moisture from penetrating inside the support pillars, their upper part is welded with metal plates.

Eg, if a sheet 2 m long is selected, and the depth of the dug hole is 1.2 m and a gap of 3 cm is selected, then the length of the metal pillar should be 3.13 m, taking into account the 10 cm layer of crushed stone previously poured onto the bottom.

After installing all the pillars V construction works stop for 7 - 10 days so that the concrete acquires the necessary hardness.

There is another method of installing pillars– manual driving into the ground. To do this, one person holds the pipe in a vertical position, and the second hammers it in with a sledgehammer on the top of the pipe. It is worth noting that this method requires enormous physical effort and time from the participants in the process, and therefore is of little use in construction.

Installation of support beams

In order for the profiled sheets to become a full-fledged fence, it is necessary to build a metal sheathing between the posts to which they will be attached. To do this, it is necessary to secure the logs between the pillars.

The number of lags may vary, depending largely on the height of the sheets. For standard height a sheet of 2 meters requires two parallel logs at the bottom and top of the pillars, respectively.

Marks are made on the pillars at the top and bottom along which the logs will be mounted. It is necessary to retreat 20 cm from the upper and lower edges. The width between them will be within 1.6 m, which is quite acceptable. Metal profiles with a cross section of 20×40 mm or 20×45 mm are used as logs.

To secure the profile between the steel posts, you first need to measure the distance between them and use a grinder to cut the required piece from the workpiece. It is recommended to fasten by welding, which guarantees the reliability of the joining points.

If experience welding work absent - you can fasten the profiles using L-shaped metal corners, but this process has several disadvantages: labor-intensive and time-consuming. And the most important nuance of this type of fastening is possible loosening fastening elements and subsequent vibrations of all sections of the fence.

Fastening corrugated sheeting to a metal frame

When the frame is assembled with your own hands and tested for strength– you should begin installing the corrugated sheeting. To carry out fastening, at least two people will need to be involved in the process. One will hold the sheet correctly relative to the frame, and the second will fasten it.

You should start from one of the corner posts. Having leaned the sheet against the frame, it is necessary to monitor the horizontal and vertical planes of the sheet, because in the future the slightest deviations from the zero mark can lead to unevenness of the sheets.

After leveling the sheet, it is fixed to metal joists special self-tapping screws with a drill-shaped tip. This type of self-tapping screw does not require the usual drilling of holes - it will go deeper into the body of the profile itself. Thanks to the hexagonal wide head with rubber gasket– the self-tapping screw securely fastens the corrugated sheet and does not scratch its surface.

Initially, 4 screws are enough for one sheet, screwed into its corners. The second sheet is leaned against the first in such a way that the joining strips overlap and are fastened in the same way. The whole process is repeated identically with all subsequent sheets.

Upon completion of fastening all sheets along the perimeter or a separate part of the fence, you need to return to the first sheet and secure it completely. To do this, a self-tapping screw is screwed into each recessed wave of the sheet. Fastening the remaining sheets is repeated identically to the first. When the top and bottom sheets are properly secured to the frame, the fence is considered almost ready.

Caring for a corrugated fence

A modern fence will last longer if you follow a few rules:

When contamination in the form of oil stains appears on the surface of the sheets or a heavy layer of dust, they must be removed using warm soapy water and a soft cloth. The wet surface is immediately wiped with a dry cloth so as not to leave streaks.
Do not use abrasive sponges or similar analogues when cleaning the surface.. They can damage the paint layer, and in the future the metal may be subject to corrosion.
After cleaning the sheets do not need in additional polishing with wax aerosols.

The optimal distance between corrugated fence posts

The distance between brick pillars or imitation brick can be from 2 to 3 meters. Many experienced specialists recommend a distance of 2 -2.5 meters. This is an ideal option for convenient fastening of sheets and reliability of support posts.

Of no small importance is the possibility of non-joining (welding) of two profiles with a larger width, because the standard length of a profile is considered to be 2.5 m. Solid profile - will last much longer.

How to extend the service life of a fence made of corrugated sheets?

Since the material for the fence is quite durable (designed for 25 years of service), it does not require special care, but Some nuances during operation should be adhered to:

Do not clean the surface with metal brushes or use powder detergents.
Do not treat the surface chemical solutions, namely solvents.
Avoid deep scratches that expose the metal to corrosion. If they are detected, they are immediately painted over with paint or clear varnish.
Do not light a fire near the fence or install a barbecue, because high temperature paintwork may crack.
All metal carcass and the pillars must be coated with a special water-repellent impregnation once a year.

Conclusion

Installing a fence made of corrugated board is quite simple and does not require high knowledge of the process. The fence will delight the eye for many years without special ways care for its surface. This type fence - ideal a budget option for all land owners.

Owners country houses, summer cottages, as well as residents of the private sector in cities, often face the problem of installing fencing. A high-quality fence on a concrete foundation requires a significant investment of effort and financial resources. This may be justified if you have large plot outside the city, where you want to be reliably protected not only from neighbors and passing traffic, but also from stray animals. Small areas within the city or in a holiday village are most often fenced with chain-link mesh, which does not shade green spaces, and its installation takes little time even without the involvement of professionals.

What you will need

To ensure that the installation of the fence takes as little time as possible, you need to prepare in advance and calculate the quantity required material and tools.

To install a chain-link fence you will need:

Chain-link mesh in calculated quantities with a small margin.

Pillars.

Wire for attaching the chain-link to the posts.

Fastening elements (plates, brackets, clamps, nuts, bolts) - depending on the chosen installation method.

Hammer.

Pliers.

Bulgarian.

Welding machine.

Materials for preparing concrete (if necessary, concreting pillars).

To determine the required number of chain-links, posts and other fasteners, the first thing you need to do is measure the perimeter of the fenced area. The simplest and reliable option measurements - along a stretched cord.

To do this, you need to drive pegs into the corners of the area that will be fenced, and stretch a strong thread, fishing line or wire, the length of which will subsequently be measured. The measurement result will be equal to the required quantity linear meters grids

However, you definitely need to add a couple of meters of reserve. Fence posts are installed on average at a distance of two and a half meters from each other, but no closer than two meters.

Knowing the size of the perimeter of the fenced area, it is easy to calculate required amount supports and, accordingly, the approximate number of fastening elements, which, however, varies depending on the selected type of fence structure.

Types of structures

The main types of chain-link fence designs:

Tension fence without guides. The easiest to install and affordable option. To install such a fence, it is enough to dig in the posts and cover them with mesh, attaching them to the supports with wire. For such a fence, pillars of any shape and any material are suitable. This design is perfect for a temporary fence or fencing within a site.

Tension fence with guides. This type differs from the previous one in the presence of two longitudinal guides, which can be either wooden (beam) or metal (pipe). This design looks more solid and holds its shape better, however, on heaving soils, installing a fence with metal guides is not recommended due to possible ruptures when the soil moves.

Sectional fence. This type of fencing is a series of metal frame sections welded to posts, into which a chain-link is mounted. Frames for the mesh are made by welding from a metal corner. The mesh is also installed by welding. This type of fence is the most stable, visually more presentable, but also more expensive option.

Net

Today, chain-link mesh is produced in several types:

Non-galvanized. The cheapest and shortest lasting. Such a mesh requires mandatory painting, since after a short time after installation it will certainly begin to rust. Service life when unpainted is no more than three years. Suitable for temporary barriers. Recently, it has hardly been used for more substantial structures.

Galvanized. It does not corrode, is durable, easy to install, does not cost much more than non-galvanized chain-link, has become widespread and is firmly a leader among other types in terms of sales.

Plasticized. This type of chain-link appeared relatively recently and is a wire mesh with a special protective coating. Combines everything positive traits galvanized mesh with greater aesthetics. Very durable, but also more expensive.

Plastic. This mesh is made entirely of plastic and is available in different color solutions with different cell shapes. It can be used for boundary fences between neighbors or for fences within a site. As a fence from the street plastic mesh not suitable due to its insufficient strength.

Important! When choosing a plasticized chain-link, you should familiarize yourself with the quality certificate of the product for sale, since a low-quality coating may not withstand the test of weather conditions, as a result of which it will crack and rust.

Another criterion for distinguishing types of chain-link is the size of the cells. Basically, the cell size varies from 25 mm to 60 mm. However, there are also meshes with cell sizes up to 100 mm.

The most suitable size for an external fence is considered to be 40-50 mm, but it is better to fence the poultry yard with a net with smaller cells, through which even the smallest chicks will not be able to crawl through.

Having decided on the type of chain-link and selected an option that is suitable for all parameters, it is necessary to carefully inspect the roll for damage and deformation.

Even a slight bend or curvature of the wire when installing the fence can result in a serious problem.

The edges of the chain-link must be bent. Moreover, the “tails” of the wire should not be shorter than half the length of the cell.

Did you know? The mesh was invented and patented at the end of the 19th century by the mason Karl Rabitz, and at first it was used for plastering walls.

Pillars

The basis for a chain-link fence are pillars, which, depending on the type of structure and the soil underneath, are either simply dug into the ground or concreted.

The following types of supports can be used to install chain-link fencing:

Wooden. Since wood is a short-lived material, such supports are only suitable for a temporary fence. An undoubted advantage is their low cost. Before installation, wooden poles must be leveled in height and the underground part must be treated with waterproof mastic. The above-ground part of the support must be painted to extend its service life. The desired size of a wooden post is 100x100 mm.

Metal. Most optimal view supports for chain-link fencing. They are characterized by strength, reliability and durability and most often represent a hollow profile of round (diameter from 60 mm) or square section (recommended size 25x40 mm). The recommended metal thickness is at least 2 mm. The treatment of such pillars consists of priming and painting. Any fasteners can be easily welded onto them. You can also buy ready-made poles with hooks to secure the mesh.

Concrete. You can make such supports yourself or purchase ready-made ones, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. The disadvantages of this type of support include the inconvenience of their installation due to the weight and complexity of attaching the mesh.

Step by step installation

Installation of chain-link fencing is carried out in several stages.

Territory marking

To mark the area for the future fence, you need to drive pegs into the corners of the fenced area and pull the construction thread. At this stage, the necessary materials are also calculated.

Then you should mark the places for installing the supports, which will stand at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other when installing the tension fence. When installing a fence with slabs or a sectional fence, the step between the posts can be 3 m.

Installation of pillars

The installation of supports should begin with the corner ones, which are recommended to be dug deeper, since they will bear the main load of the entire structure. To install a post (let’s take a metal one as a basis), you need to dig or drill a hole in the previously marked place.

The depth of the hole should be 15-20 cm greater than the freezing depth of the soil. On clay and loamy soils, it is recommended to increase the depth of the hole by another 10 cm. 10-15 cm of gravel should be poured onto the bottom of the hole to drain water, and a layer of sand on top.

Then a post, pre-treated with an anti-corrosion compound, is installed in the hole. If the fence structure is light, and even more so temporary, the supports can be installed without concreting.

In this case, after placing the pillar in the hole, the free space is filled with alternating layers of stone and soil, each of which is carefully compacted. If you are installing a sectional fence or tension fence with guides that will increase the load on the supports, it is better to concrete the posts.
For this purpose we are preparing cement mortar from sand and cement in a ratio of 1:2, into which two more parts of crushed stone are added after mixing. When all the loose parts have been added and mixed, water is poured.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution does not turn out to be too liquid. Ready solution poured into the hole around the pipe. Concrete must be shaken and compacted using bayonet shovel and leave until it hardens completely, which usually takes up to seven days.

After installing the corner pillars, the rest are installed in the same way.

Important! It is necessary to control the vertical installation of the support using a plumb line. To make it easier to adjust the height of the pillars relative to each other, it is recommended to stretch the cord between the corner supports at a distance of ten centimeters from the top.

Tensioning the mesh and securing it to the supports

Used for different supports different types fastenings. Attaching the mesh to metal poles carried out using hooks and welding, for wooden poles Staples and nails are suitable, and the chain-link is attached to concrete supports with clamps or wire.
Let us consider in detail the option of stretching the mesh over a fence with metal posts. It is necessary to start tensioning the chain-link from the corner post.

It will be more convenient to do this if you insert reinforcement into the mesh cells at a distance slightly greater than to the support, which will be pulled by two people - one closer to the top edge, and the second to the bottom.

A third person can attach the chain-link to the support hooks. After which the mesh can be welded to the post using one or more rods threaded through.

If the roll runs out between the supports, it is enough to simply connect two netting sheets by removing the outermost spiral-shaped element of one sheet, then overlap both parts of the mesh and reinsert the removed element.

Important! To reduce the load on the corner supports, it is better not to go around them with a mesh, but, having separated the cells, secure the chain-link using welding machine and stretch further with a separate fabric.

After tensioning the chain-link in the manner described above, in order to avoid sagging of the upper edge of the mesh, it is recommended to thread thick wire or reinforcement through the outer cells, which should also be welded to the posts. The same can be done with the bottom edge. This fence will be stronger.

Upon completion of the installation of the chain-link, it is necessary to bend and weld all the hooks on the supports, and also paint the posts to prevent metal corrosion. If you are installing a fence using a non-welding method, then you can paint the supports even before installing them.

Installing a fence with guides is not much different from a simple tension fence. The only difference is that in addition to the mesh, guides are also welded to the supports.

Important! It will not be possible to install a tension fence made of chain-link on a sloping area, since in an inclined position it is very poorly attached. The way out of this situation would be to terrace the area or install a sectional fence.

The procedure for marking the territory and installing supports for a sectional fence is the same as for a conventional tension fence. Metal plates with a cross section of 5 mm (width - 5 cm, length - 15-30 cm) are welded to the installed pillars at a distance of 20-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the support.

The sections are formed from rectangular frames welded from metal corners (30x40 mm or 40x50 mm), into which a part of the chain-link of the required size is welded using rods.

The sections are installed between the posts and welded to the plates. After installation work is completed, the fence is covered with paint.

Easy to build with your own hands. In order for the construction of the fence to proceed without overlays, it is necessary to provide for all technical aspects in advance. The basis of the fence is support posts and logs; this is the most labor-intensive part of the work. The maximum possible distance between fence posts made of corrugated sheets will significantly reduce the cost of fencing. At the same time, too long runs will make it difficult to install corrugated sheeting on the sheathing and reduce the strength of the structure. Optimal distance between fence posts approximately 2.5 meters. Depending on the design features fencing, this figure may change in one direction or another, but not more than 3 meters.

What materials are fence posts made from?

The distance between fence posts depends on the material and method of installation of the supports. The more firmly the pillars are installed, the greater the distance between them can be. The distance is also reduced if the height of the fence is 2.5 meters or more.

Brick fence supports have the greatest load-bearing strength. Fencing is also erected using a metal pipe, metal profile or on stilts.

Poles must be placed in the corners of the site and in places where the fence changes direction. The locations of the supports are marked with pegs, a rope is pulled between them, and if the straight line is violated, they are aligned. Planning the gates and wicket.

Brick supports

Brick columns as supports look beautiful, are not subject to corrosion, and do not need to be painted. This solid structure requires the construction of a solid foundation, otherwise the fence may become skewed.

For the base of the masonry, pipes with a diameter of 57 mm or 2 to 4 rods of thick reinforcement are used. The distance between corrugated fence posts in finished form will be 2.6 meters, and between pipes - 3 meters. It is better to make supports from facing bricks- it looks better. Expenses are planned based on the calculation of 80 pieces per column.

for brick pillars

A strip concrete foundation 0.6 m wide is installed underneath. The depth into the ground is at least 0.5 m plus a 20 cm sand cushion. The protruding part is 25-30 cm high. It can be made of concrete or laid out in brick, and then lined natural stone, tile, plaster or paint.

To protect the edges of the corrugated sheet from the bottom and sides, a groove is provided in the base and in the posts. This is more difficult to do in columns. Can be used for laying half bricks. After installing the corrugated sheeting on the joists, the grooves are sealed with cement.

Dig a trench, depending on the distance between the fence posts metal pipes(the usual figure is 3 meters). They are dug in to a depth of 25-30 cm below the freezing level. Then 2 layers of roofing felt are placed in the trench to waterproof the foundation. A frame is knitted from reinforcement 10 mm thick at a distance of 5 cm from the edges of the pit. The formwork is installed and poured with M300 concrete. Control the supports by plumb line.

If there are differences in soil on the site, then the foundation strip is divided into sections with a height difference of 10 cm.

Construction of brick pillars

Brick pillars under a fence made of corrugated board are placed one and a half or two bricks wide.

Their height is from 2 to 3 meters; the masonry is covered with metal caps or a cement slope on top. During masonry, metal mortgages are installed to secure the logs. The distance between the fence posts made of brick pillars in the final version is 2.6 meters. This is taken into account when cutting the sheathing profile and selecting the width of the sheet.

Metal pipe supports

Use a round metal pipe with a diameter of 60 mm, metal thickness 2 mm. For a high fence, it is convenient to take 11-meter pipes and cut them into three parts.

The length of the pipe section for support is equal to the height of the fence plus another half of it for the underground part. If the fence is 2 meters high, then 1 meter of the support goes underground, the total length of the pipe section will be 3 meters. In this case, the distance between fence posts made of corrugated sheets can be made to a maximum of 3 meters, and even a little more (depending on the layout of the area).

Installation of metal pipe supports

The pipes must first be welded on top or other plugs installed to prevent them from getting into precipitation. If you weld a cross of reinforcement onto the lower edge of the pipe, the stability of the support will increase.

Install corner posts, stretch the twine at a distance of 30 cm from the ground and along the top. Places for holes for posts under the corrugated fence are marked. The holes are made with a manual or electric drill to a depth of 1-1.5 m with a diameter of 30 cm. It is recommended to wrap the walls with roofing felt - this will prevent the earth from crumbling. This will also protect the supports from deformation when the soil settles: the soil will slide over the roofing felt.

Crushed stone or gravel - 20 cm is poured onto the bottom, a pole is installed (it should not pierce the pillow, otherwise corrosion is possible) and poured concrete mortar at ¾ depth. Align the support with a plumb line, wedge it with pieces of bricks, and top it up. If there is a slight distortion, then you can level it before the concrete hardens. Concreting is flush with the ground, or even better, make the formwork 40-60 mm and raise the upper part above the ground.

Concrete composition: 1 part cement, 4 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone, 4 parts water.

The final hardening of the solution occurs within a week. Only after this they begin to install the sheathing.

If there is little precipitation (the annual norm is up to 300 mm), the soil is sandy or loamy, then it is possible to do without concreting. The pipe is dug in one third, wrapped in roofing material or doused with molten bitumen. The soil is poured in 20-25 cm portions, compacting each layer thoroughly.

IN dacha version you can build a fence from corrugated sheets with pillars from a free-flow asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Its length is 3.95 m. Cutting in half, you get two columns. The material is cheap but fragile.

Fence posts made of corrugated sheet metal

Use a 60x60 profile. Its length is 6 m or more, so you should take care of the delivery method in advance. Supports are installed from metal profiles in the same way as from pipes. Its advantage is that it is easier to install logs on it, and you can make a butt connection. This is more aesthetically pleasing; the strength of such a structure is increased by attaching the corrugated sheet to the pole.

The market sells ready-made posts for corrugated sheets from a local manufacturer: They already have the top capped, the heel is welded (can be placed on sand cushion), there are paws for logs with holes. The price is comparable to the price of the profile plus welding costs. The diameter of the pit for such supports will be two sides of the thrust bearing, and the distance between the fence posts can be 2.5-3 meters.

Installation of a fence made of corrugated sheets on piles

Ready-made foundation piles are expensive: 2000-2500 rubles apiece. But if you suddenly got hold of used material, you won’t find better supports. Their strength is very high, there are no costs for concreting and excavation. What is the distance between fence posts on screw piles? Again, it all depends on the height of the structure. With a fence height of 2.5 m, you cannot make too large runs, since the fence made of corrugated sheets has a very large windage.

An option for craftsmen is homemade piles. A pipe of the required length is flattened at the end into a spear. A ring of three pipe diameters is cut out from a sheet of steel 3 mm thick using an autogenous machine. A circle the size of the pipe diameter plus 15% is cut out inside, a groove is cut, made into a screw and welded onto the pointed end of the pipe.

Installation of sheathing

After the concrete has hardened, installation of the sheathing begins. Logs can be wooden or metal.

Wooden logs are short-lived and less durable. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at the metal sheathing. Use a 30x30 or 40x20 profile (attach the flat side to the fence), metal thickness 1.5-2 mm. Sometimes a metal corner is used, but it is inconvenient to attach a profiled sheet to it.

If the height of the fence is up to 2 m, 2 logs are planned, higher - 3 logs. is about 1.6 m, 20 cm away from the upper and lower edges of the fence. If the distance between the posts of a corrugated fence is 3 m, then it is better to weld the profile not from above, but between the supports. This increases the strength of the structure and gives the fence a more aesthetic appearance.

Anti-corrosion treatment is also best done after cutting the joists, before welding. It is possible after, but it is more labor-intensive. In any case, the welding areas are cleaned and painted. If you install the sheathing without welding - screw it in - the strength of the structure will be lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

The distance between fence posts made of corrugated board should be taken into account when choosing corrugated board. For the fence, use profiled wall sheets C8, C10, C20, C21. The most popular sheet is C15 - it is cut without an upward wave, so it is convenient to combine it. The width of standard rolled products is from 800 to 1850, the most popular is 1100 - 1180, length (height) is 1440-3000, up to 4500 can be ordered - it will cost more.

The height of the lower edge of the fence from the ground is 15 cm. If the surface of the site is uneven, then differences of 10-15 cm are made. Install the sheets with an overlap in one wave, fasten after 1-2 waves (if less often, it will rattle in the wind), or 20- 25 cm, in the depression of the profile.

Installation is carried out with metal screws using a screwdriver or with rivets (pre-drill holes), using identical screws, only gray, but such a structure cannot be disassembled.

How to extend the service life of a corrugated fence

To protect against corrosion, a metal profile is additionally installed below and above. It, as well as the metal sheathing and supports, will have to be painted approximately once every 3-5 years. Otherwise, corrosion will make itself felt. Alas, the only way is not brick pillars. Not only fencing is made from corrugated sheets, as it is an inexpensive and fairly durable material.

By being careful when installing the sheet, you will save yourself from the need for preventive maintenance in the future. Use self-tapping screws with an EPDM gasket that protects the sheet coating from damage. During installation, paint over scratched areas with spray paint. Also, in the future, regularly treat scratches that arise during use.

A fence made of corrugated board, built taking into account all the recommendations, does not require special care in the future and will last for decades.

One of the obvious advantages of fences made from a material such as corrugated sheets is that it is quite possible to build these fences with your own hands, without resorting to the help of expensive construction crews. The work is quite simple; after studying the instructions, in fact, any person who is familiar with the tool first-hand will probably be able to cope. But there are also relevant nuances. For example, one of the key problems is correct installation pillars How to cope with this task effectively? What should be the distance between corrugated fence posts, and how to calculate it correctly? After all, this is the main parameter that is designed to ensure the strength and durability of the structure. After all, even the most reliable material will not withstand the onslaught of weather conditions or accidental mechanical shock unless it is securely supported by posts. And they, in turn, will not bear the load when they are not installed according to the rules.

The basis of every “self-respecting” fence is posts with logs. And their installation is the most labor-intensive component of the entire work. Of course, the maximum possible distance between corrugated fence posts significantly reduces the overall cost and saves money. But too long runs make it difficult to install the corrugated sheet and “undermine” the strength of the structure. The optimal golden mean would be about two and a half, three meters. This figure may vary in one direction or another, but, as a rule, no more than 3. Also, the gaps between the supports directly depend on the materials from which the pillars themselves are made, and on the installation method (we’ll talk about these two nuances below). In addition, the more firmly the supports are rooted, the longer the distance between them can be. And when they build a fence with a height of more than 2.5 meters, then vice versa - shorter. Structures with brick pillars have the greatest strength. Metal pipes, profiles, wood and asbestos products are used as elements. So for those under construction the choice is quite large. It is important to follow some marking rules with installation, and an important safety function for your home or site is at your service.

An example of marking posts for a fence made of corrugated sheets

The pillars are the basis of the fence

In general, the structure on which the corrugated sheet is attached consists of:

The main supporting elements that are installed at the corners of the site and on the sides of the gate. Typically, these pillars are slightly thicker, as they experience increased loads.
Intermediate support elements. Often by economic reasons they are chosen thinner because they are less loaded.
Raskosov. These elements are used to level the supports in cases where soil parameters do not allow concreting to be carried out with proper efficiency.
Horizontal joists. They are constructed from beams, or from small section profiles (30x30, 20x40 millimeters).

Fence design drawing

All elements must be rigidly connected to each other. For this purpose, both welding and mechanical connectors are used. How to choose the right supports, because modern market provides different types of products?

A Question of Choice

Which supports are commonly used for corrugated sheet fences? The following types are widely used:

metal;
wooden;
profile;
reinforced concrete;
with brick pillars;
asbestos-cement.

Their length can be determined depending on the height of the canvas (as a rule, it is selected individually). The pillars are usually slightly longer than the selected height (per meter). The upper sections, if the supports are hollow inside, are welded, sealed, or a plug is installed - depending on what material they are made of. This prevents liquid from getting inside the racks.

Metal

This is the most common material for fence posts. Such supports are made from sections of round or profiled pipe with fairly thick walls (thickness of at least 2 millimeters, for tall structures– up to 3). The second option is more technically robust and looks much more presentable and modern. The length of the parts depends directly on the height of the fence. Depth into the soil - from a meter (on dense soils) to one and a half. The metal must be subjected to additional anti-corrosion treatment. And the upper segment of the support must be updated annually, covering protective compounds(for example, paint or varnish). The profile cut should be welded or an appropriate plug should be installed to prevent water from entering the product.

Profile posts for a fence made of corrugated sheets

Tree

This pole material is used in temporary structures. Wooden supports, of course, are inferior in their characteristics to the same metal or brick ones. But when it comes to saving, they are applicable quite often. Usually this conifers: pine and spruce. The material itself is chosen with a sufficient cross-section and without large knots and cracks, even. Don't forget to treat the supports antiseptic- from pests. And lubricate the lower part with mastic to prevent moisture penetration.

Example of a base for a brick pillar

Concrete and brick

Factory-produced concrete structures are an alternative to the above supports. The product is made of sand, cement, building rubble. The post itself is divided into 2 sections: the lower one is embedded in the soil (0.8 - 1.2 meters), and the upper one is equipped with grooves for fastening the logs. Such products have reduced deformation from the effects of windage. As an option: with brick pillars, as well as in combination - brickwork and a round pipe. This method is excellent in terms of strength and aesthetic appearance, but erecting a structure “on brick” will require more significant costs and additional work.

Asbestos cement pipes

Supports from of this material still hold a fairly strong position. After all, asbestos-cement pipes coated with a special compound can last for decades, requiring almost no attention - painting, processing! Low cost, resistance to humidity and pests - an excellent budget option. But each material has its drawbacks. Asbestos-cement products also have them. They are highly fragile, which makes them difficult to transport. The pipe is heavy and bulky, which makes installation difficult. You also need to prevent liquids from getting inside the product: when they freeze, they will expand and the column may split.

Asbestos cement pipes for supports

Pipe plug option from above

Work order

Let's say you have decided on the choice of supports, and now you need to proceed directly to installation. The simplest option is concreting (unless it is a short-term construction). Here is an approximate work plan step by step.

We start by marking the area to be fenced. We mark the perimeter of the area with a measuring cord (we also use wooden or metal pegs).
Next, let's start applying markings, actually under the supports. The optimal distance for fences made of corrugated board, according to many craftsmen, is 2.5-3 meters - from pillar to post. This is directly related to the nuance that the profile used for installing horizontal joists on the structure is six meters long. Thus, when marking spans of the specified length, it is easier to join the logs.

Drilling holes for supports

Using a drill (see photo), we make holes in the soil at the marked points. The diameter of the holes for the pillars should be at least one hundred millimeters larger than that of the supports.
We fill the drilled holes with crushed stone. Compact with a tamper. We place each element separately, aligning it with a plumb line/level.
Fill the gravel on top (up to half) and fill in the cement solution.
We fix the pillars with boards or braces. When the solution has completely hardened, remove the fixation. Only then can the logs be attached.

Please note that installing corrugated fence posts according to the rules is an indispensable condition; it determines the durability of the structure and its strength. Experts advise on at this stage do not rush, but do everything thoughtfully - as described in the instructions. It’s better to spend a little extra time than to rebuild a “collapsed” fence later!

Be sure to watch the video:

27.05.2012 04:11

The most popular country fence today is chain link fence. Mass recognition and interest of summer residents
deserved it for a reason. The main advantage is price for chain link fence. Cost of installing a chain link fence , in comparison with other types of fences, it differs significantly, of course, to a lesser extent. Low price for a chain-link fence is determined by two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of chain-link mesh, or to be more precise, one roll today ranges from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a polymer-coated chain-link mesh. Color polymer coating mesh netting has virtually no effect on the price of the product. As for installing a chain-link fence, we can say - “a chain-link fence can be easily installed with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools" ASK Egida company will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.

Instructions for installing a chain-link fence

Before installing the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation location. entrance gate with a gate. Corner posts It is recommended to concrete them, since the main force from the tension of the mesh will be distributed on them. Posts for installing chain-link mesh are mainly used with a round section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common height of a chain-link mesh roll is from 1200 to 1500 mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we stretch the twine between them along the top and bottom. The bottom twine is necessary for straight-line marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The top twine will later serve to mark the height of the fence and horizontal alignment. The next stage of installing a chain-link fence is to determine the equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:

Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent pillars should be 2.5 meters.
We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We received the required number of posts - 14.5 pieces. Next, we divide the distance between the corner pillars (36 m) by the number of pillars obtained (14.5 pieces) 36:14.5 = 2.48 meters. We have determined the distance through which the pillars need to be installed from each other. It was 2.48 meters. You don’t have to catch millimeters, since visually on such a flight they will not create problems with asymmetry.

Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the chain-link fence. There are three of them. The first is the simplest: driving a post into the ground. Performed using a unified device. If you hammer with a regular sledgehammer, there is every chance of denting the pipe heads and ruining the presentation of the future fence. Be careful. Next type installation of a fence pipe - layer-by-layer crushed stone with a tamper. Refers to the cheapest and at the same time in a reliable way installations. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing of the pole out of the ground. The last type of installation includes the two previous methods, only together with them there is a parallel process of concreting, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of soil freezing.

Well, the pillars are installed, and it’s time to execute installation of chain-link mesh. Installation of chain-link mesh begins with unrolling the mesh rolls along the installed posts. Next, you need to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that you get a single mesh equal to the length of one side of the section. Tying the ends of adjacent rolls is performed as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outer wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of the adjacent rolls are aligned with each other, and the unscrewed wire is screwed back in, connecting both ends. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.

After weaving mesh chain link Let's start the final stage
installing a fence, hanging the mesh on mounted poles. Here you will need an assistant; stretching the chain-link mesh alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are pre-prepared mustaches on the pillars, then the chain-link mesh is put on them. If there are no such whiskers, then the chain-link mesh is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Next, one person goes ahead and lifts the net, and the second tightens it and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is hung out. To avoid wire sagging in the future, this especially happens in winter period When the mesh is covered with wet snow and it sags under its weight, it is necessary to pass steel wire along the top of the mesh fence. It is passed between the upper mesh cells along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sagging of the fence. Article prepared by the company