How to dig a large pond on the site? How to dig a fish pond How to dig a pond.

You should immediately warn those who want to have a pond for fishing and swimming in their dacha. This is a rather complex structure; its construction should be undertaken carefully, with the sole desire to “create a magnificent landscape design"is not enough. This refers to a fairly large body of water, not a decorative one.

What will be needed for construction?

Availability of special earth-moving equipment and trucks for transporting earth. There will be quite a large amount of it, the specific volumes depend on the size and depth of the pond. For swimming and breeding fish, the depth must be at least two meters; multiply this figure by the length and width and find out the volume of the soil.
The ability to continuously supply fresh water to the pond and consider a way to drain the runoff. Without constant water changes, the most beautiful pond in a few years it will turn into a green, stinking puddle; cleaning it out or, in extreme cases, filling it up is a big problem.
Significant financial resources. They will be needed not only for the construction of the reservoir, but also for maintaining it in proper condition.

If you have no problems on all counts, you can begin construction. We will tell you in as much detail as possible about all existing rules and requirements, each owner suburban area must independently decide what to do: take into account existing requirements and be guaranteed to have a real functional pond, or act at his own peril and risk, build “at random.”

The pond at the dacha for breeding fish and swimming is quite large in size, and this is already a real hydraulic structure in its complexity, requiring a competent approach.

Before the immediate start of production construction work The following problems need to be solved:

When the preliminary questions are clear, you can begin to sketch the reservoir and draw up a water supply and drainage diagram.

How to draw a sketch

When you do not have the slightest experience and knowledge, it is better to seek help from specialists. Their services will cost much less than correcting mistakes.

Scheme of a film pond
Show on page View full size

If you have some preparation, then with the help of our tips you can make a sketch yourself. What should be indicated in the picture?

FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. S V O D R A V I L SP 22.13330.2011. SNiP 2.02.01-83. File for download

Water purification measures, filtration prevention

Seepage protection is carried out when the pond is dug in light soils. In addition, the issue of withdrawal should be resolved melt water, if they can get through the sides or from a spring at the bottom. Internal surfaces The reservoir can be protected using a traditional compacted clay screen or concrete with special additives. Today, there are newer materials in sale: rubberized films, synthetic mats with dry clay powder inside, etc. A specific choice must be made taking into account financial opportunities and soil characteristics.

Over time, the water in the reservoir becomes contaminated with various mechanical deposits. The maximum damage is caused by clay particles entering through the active aquifer pores of the soil. In the most difficult cases, siltation can amount to up to ten centimeters per year. To eliminate such negative consequences gravel-sand cushions can be poured onto the bottom or non-woven synthetic filter materials can be used.

Very important has a percentage of oxygen in the water, aeration should be used to maintain values within the recommended parameters (if there is no other way to exchange water). There is another option for aeration - making a decorative fountain, but this method can significantly increase the estimated cost of construction work.

Additional structures for water replenishment of the pond

For reservoirs that are built on a river or stream, this problem is solved by nature. All you need to do is install a small dam to hold back the water flow and release the excess. To prevent pollution from the river from reaching the surface, you need to install ordinary lattice filters. If there are fish in the pond, then the same gratings should be installed on the drainage system, they will prevent the fish from leaving. Dams simultaneously release maximum water flows during floods or spring snowmelt. Metal or metal can be used as drainage structures. concrete pipes, the diameter is selected taking into account the maximum flow rate of the water flow.

Significant problems can arise when it is necessary to clean the bottom of the pond. It will not be possible to drain the water completely; it will have to be pumped out with powerful pumps. Again, recusal issues need to be resolved. The pumped water should not flood existing buildings and neighbors on the dacha site.

An important characteristic for any pond is the water exchange rate. Indicators depend on hydrological features. Scientific data indicate that for large-volume reservoirs it is possible to reduce the frequency of water exchange; the system is able to cope with cleaning on its own. Reservoirs into which water comes from a river or stream (dams) do not require any effort. For all other ponds, it will be necessary to make forced water exchange systems with pumps or purify the water with biological and mechanical methods. The power of the pumps and the amount of water depends on the volume and purpose of the structure.

Table of water exchange coefficients

When natural water change is impossible to ensure for various reasons, you will have to use mechanical and biological methods of water purification, which we will talk about below.

How to purify water without water exchange

If the pond is quite large, then water purification occurs to a greater extent in a natural way microorganisms and plants. But there are times when these cleaners do not have time to cope with the assigned tasks, the owners have to solve the problem using other methods.

Mechanical filters. The most common and most cheap way. In most cases, cleaning can be carried out in several stages from various types pollution. They consist of washed crushed stone and several fractions of quartz sand.
Chemical filters. Modern devices, absorbing chemical compounds unusual for ponds. Additionally, a special installation for saturating water with oxygen can be used; it ensures an increase in its amount in the water. And oxygen accelerates the processing of organic pollutants by bacteria.
Water sterilization. An ultraviolet irradiation unit processes water and destroys all types of bacteria. For fish ponds it is used only as a last resort when pathogenic bacteria are detected in the water.
Microbiological method. Bacteria specially introduced into the pond significantly accelerate the decomposition of organic impurities.

If you do not comply with the requirements for maintaining the water in proper condition, then in a few years a beautiful stocked pond will turn into a pit with stinking water.

Special hydraulic structures

At the beginning of the article, we already said that the exclusion of flooding of the foundations of existing buildings must be provided for at the stage of planning the location of the pond. But there are cases when the landscape features of a summer cottage, the physical characteristics of the soil or the proximity groundwater do not allow to avoid flooding with “little blood”, it is necessary to build special hydraulic structures.

Maintaining the water regime of the dacha plot and draining filtration water outside the plot is done by drainage - a rather complex structure from a technical point of view. Ponds can have a low water level (the mirror is located below ground level) or high. In the first case drainage water can be discharged back into the pond, and the excess is removed using an ordinary catchment. Disadvantages of this method: a fairly large distance between the ground and water levels and very extended systems. The issue can be resolved by installing intermediate wells. In the second case, you need to make a separate ring drainage pond, it will intercept filtration water and divert it to the collection tank. Used on heavy, heavily waterlogged soils.

We specifically tried to give as much as possible full information for the construction of ponds in compliance with all requirements building codes and rules. Each developer has the right to independently decide whether to build a pond taking into account the developed recommendations and not worry about its functionality or simplify some technologies.

Information about construction technology is available, there is no problem in choosing and getting acquainted with the desired pond option. We will give some general practical advice, which will be useful in all cases.

We strongly recommend that you start building a pond before the construction of the main dacha buildings begins. Firstly, the fertile layer of soil can be usefully used in another area. Secondly, the work of earthmoving equipment and trucks will cause less damage to the landscape.

If the land is sandy, then it is better to concrete the bottom; flexible waterproofing materials do not have sufficient physical strength and will not be able to prevent the banks from collapsing. During concreting, it should be borne in mind that two types of forces will act: with outside the earth will crumble, the inner bowl will burst with ice in winter. It is highly advisable to use metal mesh reinforcement during concreting.

The swimming area must have reinforced shore protection. If used for waterproofing various films, then they can be damaged by swimmers. Special ladders must be installed at the points of entry/exit from the water.

Places for installing additional equipment and drains should be provided when working with the bowl. Exits are installed in technological areas, more thorough waterproofing is done, etc.

The fish in the pond will have to be fed; natural food is not enough for it. Feeding is an unnecessary burden on the ecology of the pond; it will not be possible to accurately calculate the amount of feed. This means that water purification systems must be more powerful and efficient.

Video - How to build a pond yourself

How pleasant it is to spend a few hours by a shady pond or lake in the hot summer! Of course, it's great if there is one in the neighborhood. However, most often we spend our free summer days at the dacha, and not everyone has the funds for a large country house and landscape designer services. In this case, there is nothing left but to make a pond with your own hands, especially since it is not so difficult.

It all depends on your imagination, the size of the area and what you have on hand. If you put in a little effort and money, your dacha pond will not only delight you, but also cause the burning envy of your neighbors.

The size and shape of yours primarily depend on the area of the plot allocated for these purposes. But the larger the pond area, the easier it is to care for - a small one needs to be cleaned more often. If you plan to have fish and plant a lot of aquatic plants, then a small pond will not suit you either, because it is very difficult to maintain the correct eco-balance in it.

The most best place for a home pond there will be an open part of the site, at the same time protected from strong wind. You should not place the pond in a well-lit place: the location should be such that the sun's rays do not fall into the water for more than 6 hours in a row, otherwise it will bloom and only frogs will be able to live there. A dubious prospect, right? At the same time, if the lighting is insufficient, the plants will develop slowly, and you won’t get a beautiful place to relax.

If you decide to set up a small fountain, you will definitely need a pond diagram in order to properly connect the pump and other equipment. With a little effort, you can draw up a plan yourself. Of course, you will also need to consider the proximity of the power supply network.

You should not locate your home pond under the canopy of trees. Firstly, this will lead to additional contamination of the water with fallen leaves, and the pond will have to be cleaned much more often, and secondly, the roots of the tree can damage the bed of the tank, and it will quickly dry out.

And, of course, the whole idea will become useless if you cannot enjoy the beautiful view from the window or from the terrace, so when planning to make a pond on the site with your own hands, do not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue.

Home pond on a rigid base

If you are a supporter of solid, durable construction, then you can approach the process on a grand scale: dig a foundation pit of sufficient size and, using metal reinforcement and cement, cast a reinforced concrete bowl for the pond. Such a design will certainly cost a lot, but it will last for many years (at least 30). If you are not a follower of the global approach, you can get by with a simpler and cheaper option.

So, how to do it One of the most basic ways to make your dream come true is a ready-made “bowl”, which can be purchased in a store. Perhaps the main disadvantage of this option is that you have to come up with your own original form reservoir will not be possible, you will have to be content with the offered assortment.

The most inexpensive solution is a small plastic pond, from 4 to 8 m2. Of course, there are larger molds, but they already belong to the category of pools and are much more expensive. When choosing a container, you should definitely pay attention to its depth - it should be at least 0.8-1 meters. In summer, the water in such a pond will warm up completely, and all its inhabitants will be comfortable, but in winter, such a pond will not freeze to the bottom, which is also very important.

If you decide to organize a pond on your site with your own hands and want to use a ready-made base for this, then first of all you need to study the materials from which the forms are made - there are also several nuances here.

The simplest and cheapest option may be a regular plastic container, but it has its drawbacks. First of all, you need to be very careful when transporting and installing - such a tank can crack even with slight bending. Also, plastic tends to degrade from sunlight, which means that the service life of such a product is not too long - 5-10 years.

If you want your pond to last longer, choose forms made of special reinforced plastic - they have a much longer service life (up to 20 years). Such tanks are more flexible and less susceptible to ultraviolet radiation.

The highest quality and, of course, most expensive are products made from fiberglass on a rubber base. This form is resistant to temperature changes, does not deteriorate from exposure to sunlight and does not release into water harmful substances, which is very important for the inhabitants of the reservoir. Such a tank will last more than 30 years, in addition, it can be repaired, which extends the time of use for an almost unlimited period.

The construction of ponds from a fiberglass bath is a simple process, and the result is quite aesthetic, since these forms come in different colors, and some are even coated with a coating that imitates stones, sand or small pebbles. This allows you to beautifully disguise the edges of the pond and give it the most natural look.

We build it ourselves

So, in order to build a pond on the site with your own hands, first of all you need to decide on the location and shape of the reservoir. Have you decided? Let's start construction work:

First, we mark the outline of the pit. This is very simple to do - place the shape in the desired place and outline its silhouette using a regular bayonet shovel, pressing the handle tightly against the edge of the bath.
Add about 20 cm to the resulting outline to fill the plastic pond with sand.
If you purchased a form with ledges, then each level must be marked and dug separately, from largest to smallest, and do not forget to add 10-15 cm on each floor for a sand base.
When the pit is ready, its edges should be thoroughly leveled and compacted, all glass, stones and tree roots should be removed. If this is not done, the mold may be damaged. Then you need to pour and thoroughly compact sand in a layer of at least 10 cm - this will protect your pond from subsidence.
Place the plastic mold and make sure that it is level, you can use the rule for this. Then carefully fill the pond by about a third with water, being careful not to move it.
Carefully fill the gaps between the edge of the pit and the mold with sand. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no voids left. Why periodically water the soil with water, but try not to let the pressure be too strong.

During the week after installation, regularly water the soil around the pond and add sand as needed. After the soil subsidence stops, you can completely fill the reservoir, decorate the edges of the pond bowl with stones, flagstone and plant ornamental plants.

Country pond made of flexible materials

Now let's talk about how to make a pond on your site if it is not possible to purchase a ready-made container or you want to arrange a large pond of a bizarre shape.

The most budget option in this case, the use of ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of at least 500 microns will be used. However, despite the fact that it is quite inexpensive, this coating has quite a lot of disadvantages. The fact is that polyethylene is enough thin material, it is very easy to damage, and under the influence of sunlight it becomes brittle and quickly collapses. A pond on a polyethylene backing will last you a maximum of 2-3 years.

PVC film for a pond - the material is also not too expensive, but much more durable; such a coating can withstand 8-10 years. Polyvinyl chloride coating can be regular or two-layer, in which a woven mesh is laid for strength. Of course, PVC has the same disadvantages as polyethylene - it is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, it is easily cut and torn, but, unlike the latter, it can be repaired. Special kits are sold for this. Besides, PVC is better stretches, and after filling the pond with water, most folds stretch and straighten over time.

The most expensive, but at the same time the highest quality coating is made from butyl rubber: the service life of such material is about 50 years, and it does not mind the sun's rays. Plus, butyl rubber is resistant to low temperatures, so you won't have to drain your pond in the winter. It is a very flexible and ductile material that can withstand significant loads, therefore, if you decide to arrange a spacious pond unusual shape, you simply cannot do without it.

Marking the pit

To build a pond on your site with your own hands, you will need:

pegs;
rope;
film coating;
geotextile or felt;
sand;
crushed stone or large pebbles;
shovel;
special kit for film coating repair;
bricks;
garden hose for watering;

Using twine and pegs, you need to mark the desired shape of the pit and begin earthworks. If you are planning to make a pond quite large sizes, you can use an excavator. During the work, it is necessary to ensure that ledges and slopes alternate; this will make the banks of the pond more stable. It is also necessary to provide terraces (at least 30 cm wide) for planting. Descents from one level to another must be made fairly flat, with an inclination angle of up to 45˚.

It is worth remembering that the depth of the pond should not be less than 80 cm, otherwise in winter the water in it will freeze to the bottom and its inhabitants will die. Thus, you need to dig a pit approximately 15-20 centimeters larger than the expected size of the reservoir. This is necessary in order to be able to fill the terraces and the bottom of the pond with sand, in order to avoid subsidence and damage to the film. sand cushion you need to carefully level and compact it, after removing all pebbles, sharp sticks and plant roots from the bottom.

Drainage and waterproofing

When the sand drainage pad is ready, we move on to the next stage of work. In order for the pond film to remain intact for as long as possible, you need to lay geotextiles on a layer of sand, preferably in 2 layers. Next, we straighten the film itself and secure it to the banks with bricks or large stones. Don’t try to necessarily straighten and spread out all the folds - let the water do it for you.

We place the flexible one so that its end is in the center of the future reservoir, and we begin to supply water, making sure that the pressure is not too strong. As the pond fills with water, partially release the edges of the film and spread it along the slopes of the pit. After the reservoir is filled to the brim, leave it for 1-2 days. During this time, under the weight of water, the film will expand and fill all the voids.

After it has completely subsided, you need to cut off the excess parts, leaving at least 40-50 cm for arranging the banks. The edges are secured with pegs or special metal arches, and then masked with flagstone, large stones and pebbles. It's time to install the pump, decorate the hoses from the fountains and start planting plants.

Pond above ground at the dacha

When there are kids in the family, one of the main problems when building a pond is how to make the pond safe. It is best if such a reservoir is slightly raised above the soil surface. Firstly, this makes caring for it much easier, and secondly, the risk of small children or pets accidentally falling into it is significantly reduced.

In this case, you cannot do without a reinforced concrete foundation. Dig a pit for the pond in its deepest part, form terraces for plants, just as in the previous case. Along the banks of the reservoir, using wooden formwork, pour a concrete foundation of the required height; for strength, it can be reinforced with metal mesh. After the foundation has completely dried and settled (this will take at least two days), the formwork can be removed and the inner walls can be plastered until smooth. This will help prevent the film from tearing. We line the bottom of the pit with it and fill the bowl with water. In this case, we secure the edges of the material so that they are behind the concrete fence. After the pond is filled, let the water settle, cut off the excess film, secure it and decorate the edges of the bowl.

Inventory: what you will need

Of course, building ponds is not an easy task, but what can you do for your loved one, because if everything is organized correctly, the result will please the eye for many years.

However, it is not enough to build a home pond - you also need to take care of it. Here are some technical devices that will be very useful to you:

Rules for caring for a country pond

A pond in the garden is, of course, very beautiful, but if you do not want to become the happy owner of a personal swamp in which frogs croak in the evenings, then you need to properly care for it. First of all, you need to make sure that the water in it does not bloom. Of course, it is best to purchase a special cleansing system, but, unfortunately, this is not a cheap pleasure. However, there is something else, more accessible remedy: take a canvas bag and fill it. Place this “surprise” under water, and there will be practically no algae left at the bottom of the pond.

It is also necessary to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the reservoir - regularly remove debris from the surface and add water as it evaporates. If your pond is small, then winter period It is recommended to completely drain it, and for large tanks, complete cleaning is necessary at least 2-3 times a year, and the water must be completely pumped out.

From what's at hand

But what should those whose plot size does not allow them to place even a small pond? Don’t be upset: a small pond can also be arranged in the front garden by adapting a trimmed piece of water for this purpose. metal barrel or just a big basin. Such a mini-pond can even be placed on the balcony of a city apartment by decorating the container with glued pebbles or mosaics. Of course, you won’t hear the gurgling of a fountain near such a “reservoir,” but you are guaranteed coolness and lush greenery of aquatic plants.

It has been repeatedly noted that people who dream of own pond, I affectionately call him “pond”. We will tell you how the participants of our portal made their ponds.

How to find a place for a pond on the site;
How to choose its sizes;
How to dig a pond;
Types of waterproofing;
How to do clay castle;
How to correctly calculate film sizes;
How to make waterproofing.

Choosing a place for a pond

The correct pond on the site must be in the right place. To find this on the site right place, several points must be taken into account: groundwater level and soil composition, lighting, topography of the site, distance to trees. People who are overwhelmed by the “dream of a pond” often start by studying neighboring ponds so as not to repeat the mistakes of others. So, if the underlying soil is clay, then it will hold water in the pond; Water will easily drain through sandy soil, especially if groundwater deep. It is these factors that influence what it will be like, whether it will be necessary to buy materials for waterproofing, how complex the work will be, and what time of year it is best to carry it out.

axelo FORUMHOUSE Member

In this case (high groundwater level), it will be more economical to dig in the cold, and not in the spring - you will be tortured to pump out water.

The shape of the future reservoir depends on the topography of the site - do you want waterfalls or a smooth surface of water. Illumination plays an important role - it is undesirable for the exposure to direct sunlight to exceed six hours. Therefore, even if you are sure that you know the area like the back of your hand, it is recommended to observe how it is illuminated by the sun for several days. If you are making a pond for fish, then the lighting requirements are especially important - the warmer the water, the lower the oxygen level in it.

The more sun there is, the deeper the pond should be.

Many are afraid to place a pond next to trees, although it would seem that we have the necessary shading. They say that tree roots can tear the waterproofing. At FORUMHOUSE this is considered rather a prejudice.

DreiW Member of FORUMHOUSE

There is an opinion that this is just another myth. “Roots and film”, “moles and film”, “pond and mosquitoes” - folk art. There will be more damage from leaf and needle litter from nearby trees to the pond.

According to the experience of the participants of our portal, roots, like stones and other hard and sharp objects at the bottom, can mechanically damage the film when filling the reservoir with water. To prevent this from happening, the bottom and walls are cleared of them, optionally sprinkled with sand, and a layer of geotextile must be placed under the waterproofing layer.

If the roots are not visible at the bottom, but the proximity to the trees is still disturbing, you can dig a sheet of flat slate or iron between them and the pond.

How to determine the size of a reservoir

The size of the future pond depends, first of all, on its purpose. It’s one thing if you want to plunge into it after a bath, another thing if you need a reservoir for breeding carp and crucian carp. It may be enough for admiration old bath, dug into the ground and planted with plants. Most recommendations state that the area of the reservoir should be no more than 3% of the total area of the site.

Often the dimensions directly depend on the size of the budget of the “pond project” - when, during the calculations, the costs of the film cease to fit within the boundaries of reason, or when you realize that the pit will have to be dug manually, a decision is made to make its dimensions smaller.

Andrey 64 FORUMHOUSE Member

The depth also depends on. As an option, you can dig a large barrel into the bottom, in which the crucian carp can sit out until spring. But

The lowest point of the pond is located below the freezing level of the soil.

Ashwood Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

Ask anglers about the ice thickness in your area and multiply by 1.5, since a small body of water freezes more strongly.

How to dig a pit

Having determined the size and shape of the pit, we mark its contours. If a rectangular pond is planned, pegs are driven in at the site of the future corners and a rope is pulled, but most often the pond is made in the shape of a bean, so the shape is laid out with a rope. The dimensions of a pit, which is dug with an excavator or manually, can be calculated using the formula for the volume of a truncated cone - the Internet is full of calculators where all you have to do is enter the dimensions.

The walls of the pit, the future banks, are leveled and terraces are made. Bottom of the usual country pond make it three-level. The depth of the first terrace is approximately 30 cm, the second - approximately 60, on the third level - the maximum depth. If it is more than 120, then the reservoir is suitable for fish farming, and then at the bottom they either dig a pit for wintering, or, as mentioned above, use a barrel.

The first two zones can be used for planting. , in the second zone, so usually small excavations are made there in advance, before filling with water. Shallow water is necessary - the water in this place always warms up, fry gather there, etc.

Choosing hydrolysis

Mike User FORUMHOUSE

Waterproofing is necessary. Otherwise the water will not hold. It is a very rare case when there are hydrogeological conditions for a natural reservoir.

Before artificial materials for waterproofing ponds appeared, it was made from clay. FORUMHOUSE users still make the so-called clay castle now, mainly when creating so-called eco-ponds, or when the size of the reservoir forces them to do so - covering it with film is too expensive. A clay castle is three layers of clay 15 cm high, applied to the bottom of a pit. This one has old-fashioned method there are a few subtleties - to repel worms, before applying the first layer of clay, the bottom of the pit is first sprinkled with a layer of soot, etc. This is a complex and labor-intensive technology. To prevent the bottom from cracking over time, the clay for the castle is “greasy”, with a minimum sand content, each layer is well compacted and completely dried, and only then the next one is applied. Large stones are poured onto the clay castle, small stones are poured onto them, and river sand is placed on them.

Mike

The complexity of the work on constructing a clay castle exceeds even reinforced concrete work. Each piece of clay must be well pressed and smeared. Otherwise, the water will find a hole and escape.

If we talk about artificial waterproofing, then on our portal preference is given to different types geomembranes, there are also adherents. The most available material film remains high pressure(PVD), but this is the least reliable look waterproofing, although many owners of reservoirs speak of this material as durable and resistant to mechanical damage. Next, in ascending order of cost, service life, winter hardiness and reliability, are:

PVC film, service life 10-15 years;
Butyl rubber film, service life up to 50 years. This material is recommended for deep reservoirs (deeper than 2-3 meters) due to its high strength and ability to stretch three times without loss of performance;
Liquid waterproofing. But we are not talking about a pond that experts will make for us on a turnkey basis, but about a reservoir that we will make our own with my own hands, so we will not consider this option. We will also leave options for rigid waterproofing - ready-made “bathtubs” of ponds of almost any size and with terracing, which are installed in a prepared pit.

DreiW User FORUMHOUSE

I’m thinking about how to waterproof... butyl is expensive, HDPE/LDPE film is unreliable, concrete is both expensive and cannot be altered (in case you want to change the shape). Maybe compact several layers of clay through textiles?

When choosing a material for waterproofing, it is recommended to pay attention not only to its cost. It is equally important that the composition does not contain dangerous chemical additives, that the material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, frost-resistant, resistant to mechanical damage and durable (when purchasing, check it for tearing).

How to calculate film size

To calculate the film, we need to take measurements in order to know exactly: the length of the reservoir, the width of the reservoir and its greatest depth.

The size of the film is calculated using the formula: length/width of the film = length/width of the reservoir + 2 depths + 1 m.

That is, to determine the length of the film, we take the length of the pit, add to it two of its depths and another meter (half a meter for reserve on each side).

We also determine the width of the film.

DreiW

It seems to me that we first need to see what standard sizes There are canvases in width, and then fit a pond under them so as not to cut/glue. It will be cheaper.

So, for a pond 9 meters long, 5 meters wide and 1.5 meters deep, according to our calculations, a piece of film 3x9 meters will be required.

How to make waterproofing

Mike

Waterproofing is made from whole piece a special film that is placed in the pit. Decorated with boulders and pebbles. Water is pouring. A pump with a filtration unit is installed. You can attach a stream or waterfall to the pond. Add underwater lighting. The water corner is ready.

The above instructions can be considered exhaustive. We dug a pit and bought film. If you can’t find a suitable whole piece, you can glue it together, but it’s better to entrust this work to specialists, because the quality of the seams must be really high.

Before laying the film, all stones and roots are removed from the bottom of the pit, and it is better to fill the bottom of the reservoir with sand. Geotextiles are placed on top and waterproofing material is placed on top.

The film is laid on a warm day, because exposure to heat makes it more elastic. The edges of the film are fixed on top with soil and stones. The film must rest for some time, and then it is slowly filled with water.

Having your own small pond in your summer cottage is beautiful, unusual, and also a kind of symbol of well-being, which, with a reasonable approach, will give joy for many years. An important aspect construction is preparatory stage. Before digging a pond, you need to find on the site optimal place, decide on the size and shape, choose the design and type of waterproofing.

Step-by-step guide to creating a pond in your summer cottage

The most affordable for DIY construction is a small pond in a landscape style with a film type of waterproofing. For such a pond, a natural round, oval, or slightly curved “bean-shaped” shape is suitable. Before you dig a pond with your own hands, you need to prepare everything you need: a shovel, a rake, scissors, a thick rope or hose, limestone, sand, large stones, waterproofing film, geotextiles.

Step 1: Drawing the outline and digging a pit

Before digging a pond, you need to clear the area of land on which it will be located from vegetation. To select the shape, it is convenient to use a rope or hose. By arranging them differently, you can evaluate which contours of the reservoir look most natural. You can outline the outline using sand, pebbles or limestone.

If the soil in the area is soft, then digging a small pit will not be difficult - for this you will need an ordinary garden shovel. For hard soil or a large pond, it is better to use an excavator. Several levels of depth will make the pond more like a natural pool of water. The land you dig can be left for floristic arrangement of the coastal zone or alpine slide on garden plot.

Step 2: Sand layer and additional insulation

After the pond is dug, you need to remove stones and plant roots from the walls and bottom. Then you should fill the pool with sand and level its surface using a rake. The layer of sand embankment for a small reservoir should be at least 4–5 cm thick, for a large one – 15–20 cm. To make the waterproofing film last longer, it is worth covering the layer of sand with geotextiles. This synthetic material will prevent plant germination and protect the film from scratches and tears.

Step 3: Calculate the size and fix the waterproofing film

Since polyethylene waterproofing is a vulnerable and short-lived material, it is better to use a film with high strength - made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or artificial rubber. To calculate the required dimensions, it is convenient to use a simple formula:

Length = pit length + double depth + 60 cm (or 100 cm for a large pond).
Width = pit width + double depth + 60 cm (or 100 cm).

If the reservoir has irregular shape, in the calculation you need to take the maximum measurement values.

The waterproofing film must be laid on a layer of sand (clay, geotextile) and compacted well - its edges must evenly extend beyond the boundaries of the pit.

The easiest way is to cover the surface of the pool with stones. However, if you intend to use underwater plants in the design of the pond, you should cover the waterproofing material with sand, then soil, gravel or pebbles.

Step 4: Masking the edge of the waterproofing film with soil and stones

Before fixing the edges of the film, you need to fill the foundation pit with water - this way the base will finally accept the required form. Then you should dig a narrow trench around the reservoir and fill the edges there, sprinkled with stones. Or a more complex option - carefully remove a layer of soil (along with grass) 5-10 cm thick and 30-50 cm wide around the pond, straighten the edges of the canvas in place of the removed layer, and then put the soil back.

To secure the waterproofing more reliably, heavy flat stones must be laid around the perimeter of the pond. If desired, you can place a special installation with a pump in the pond to simulate a waterfall. In this case, the pump itself will be located at the bottom, and the waterfall installation connected to it should be disguised under stones at an elevation of about 50 cm above the water surface.

Before you start working on a pond on your site, make sure that you have learned all the intricacies of this process by watching how to dig a pond with your own hands in the video.

Video: Pond Making Guide

Options for waterproofing a pond at a summer cottage

Since you can properly make a pond with your own hands not only using film, it is worth considering other options waterproofing coating. The waterproof layer is made from special clay plastic mold, asphalt pavement, stone, brick or concrete blocks. For particularly large pools, it is advisable to use reinforced concrete structures.

Everyone has certain disadvantages insulating materials. Even a seemingly reliable concrete pit is quite vulnerable when low temperatures– water that has penetrated into the pores of concrete can lead to cracking of the surface when it freezes.

For self-waterproofing Clay is suitable - for reliability, you need to apply an elastic clay mass to the walls of the pit in three layers with a total thickness of about 20 cm. However, tree roots and rodents can damage even such a layer.

Putting your work into summer cottage plot, you expect all your efforts to “pay off” with a transformed landscape and good mood from his contemplation. Unfortunately, the process of creating a reservoir is not as simple as we would like - pitfalls, both literally and figuratively, can interfere with plans. Therefore, if you are not completely confident in your abilities and have no idea how to dig a pond at your dacha with your own hands and make it the way you intended, it is better to entrust the realization of the pond of your dreams to professionals.

Garden plots can be different and are used in different ways. Some people turn their dacha into a vegetable garden, some plant a garden and raspberry fields, some use the site as a platform for landscape experiments.

In the latter case, a small pond may be an interesting addition.

Types of reservoirs

Before digging a pond on a site, it is necessary to accurately determine its purpose. This is not an exaggeration, since the requirements for water and the functioning of the facility are completely different.

Decorative pond - can have the most minimum dimensions, any shape and, as a rule, natural circulation of water. It serves for decoration, so maximum attention is paid to the stone on the bottom and for lining the sides.

An indispensable part of such a reservoir is decorative emergent plants. Fish are not required, but with periodic, not permanent residence at the dacha they are also undesirable. Breeding requires constant attention and participation. The photo shows a decorative pond with a fountain.

Swimming pool - with small volumes, requires the organization of proper water circulation and periodic disinfection. Water must meet hygiene standards, and with small sizes this is not so easy. Actually, it is not a pond - it is correct to call it a pool in which microorganisms are purposefully destroyed.
A reservoir for raising fish with your own hands - if it is intended to be populated only by decorative species, the structure should also be classified as decorative and care should be taken to ensure its beautiful appearance. If they want to eat fish, the issue must be approached differently. This will require time, effort, and extensive knowledge of fish farming.

Another classification of reservoirs is related to their shape and method of arrangement.

You can dig a pond geometric shape. This is the easiest way, especially if you are going to use an excavator.
A raised pond with a small size looks very elegant. In addition, the sufficiently high sides eliminate the possible danger for small children. It’s easier to care for a pond, and you don’t need to dig a pit. However, such a pool warms up very easily, which can damage the plants, and in winter it risks freezing to the bottom - the earth does not protect it.
Natural - in this case, the features of the relief are used under the reservoir. An undoubted advantage is the naturalness of the form and, again, there is no need to dig a pit. The downside is that the shape of the reservoir can be quite complex, making maintenance difficult.

Features of a reservoir for fish farming

It is quite possible to use agricultural land to make a pond with your own hands.

But if its goal is to grow crucian carp or crucian carp, then organizing it correctly is not at all so easy.

How to dig a fish pond?

A small artificial reservoir is essentially just a puddle, since natural biogeocenosis is not formed or maintained in it. This is only possible with a large area, which not every dacha has. An acceptable area is considered to be 25–50 square meters. m.
Contrary to popular belief, you need to dig a fish pond not in a lowland - there it will be flooded with rainwater, but in a place where part of the bottom will be in the sun and part in the shade.
If the outline of the pool can be geometric, then the bottom should be made uneven in the form of ledges. This is necessary to create and maintain areas with different water temperatures.
The soil is selected based on the rock. So, carp will need hard soil: the bottom is lined with crushed stone, pebbles, and coarse sand.
Installing a filter pump is necessary: the size of the reservoir is very small, and excess microorganisms need to be gotten rid of.
The volume of the pit is calculated from the estimated number of individuals and breed. So, for crucian carp up to 15 cm long, 50 liters of water is enough. Silver carp will need more.
If year-round breeding is planned, you need to organize a wintering well: for this, a large container is deepened into the bottom of the pool.

How to dig a pond correctly

Most often, on agricultural lands they organize a pond with concrete base. This is a universal, durable material that does not require additional work care In this case, the bottom can be lined with any other material for decoration.

Create a sketch taking into account the stepped device. It is recommended to use for this computer programs, which will also calculate the volume of land.
Digging a pond with an excavator is much more convenient and faster. Even a small pool measuring 5*5*2 will have to be dug with your own hands for at least 2 working weeks, literally from dawn to dusk. An excavator can be completed in less than a day. However, this option is only possible if the car is able to enter the area and turn around.
The walls and bottom of the pool are cleaned of roots and debris. Metal reinforcement connected with knitting wire is laid over the entire surface.
Prepare a mixture of cement grade no lower than M400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:3 and fill the bottom. The sides are constructed only after the concrete has set. The thickness of the side walls should not be more than 12 cm, and the walls themselves should be flat.
If necessary, and, as a rule, it is, waterproofing is done. Until the concrete sets completely, cover the surface with a layer of roofing material and fill it with mortar.
In one of the sides they arrange drain pipe, to remove water. The supply hose is hidden among stones.
The pool is finished - the bottom and terraces can be lined with crushed stone or gravel, the sides can be decorated with real wild stone or its imitation. Then the pond is filled with water and the plants begin to be planted.

The video demonstrates digging a reservoir with an excavator.