Teknol JRM protection for edges and ends of Teknos. Treatment of logs with protective compounds: internal and external Options for trimming a log frame

To start work you will need a grinder and grinding disc with grain P60-80. Carefully sand the ends of the frame using a grinder, since the quality of these actions will determine how deep the protective composition gets into the structure of the log.

Impegnerants and septics

As a primary protection, you can use impregnating solutions, which contain various biocides that protect the tree from harmful bacteria, fungi and insects (the most dangerous of which, for example, the bark beetle). Such solutions are produced by both domestic and foreign manufacturers, for example, Tikkurilla offers seven positions of protective compounds.

Impregnating solutions are applied using a wide brush in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried. It is recommended to apply two or three layers of this solution with a time interval of no more than 12 hours.

The disadvantages of impregnating solutions are that they evaporate over time, so to reliably protect the wood after treatment, it is advisable to cover it with an additional layer of sealant.

Please note that the log house purchased from the manufacturer must already be treated with an antiseptic. Moreover, the processing should be deep - with logs immersed in baths with a solution, i.e. one that cannot be performed.

Sealants

The main advantages of the sealant include the fact that it penetrates well into the structure of the wood and is fixed in it when it dries, preventing moisture from getting inside. The composition is applied with a brush, also in two layers. After drying, it forms an acrylic film on the end of the log, which will protect your log house.

Oils and paints

But there is more budget option protect the log house by treating its ends with used machine oil, which you will find in any car service center or garage cooperative. For reliable protection, applying oil twice at intervals of 8-12 hours is sufficient.

Once a year it is necessary to carry out preventive greasing of the ends. Drying oil can also be used to protect a log house, since it has a reasonable price and is similar in effect to sealants, although over time it will evaporate and the treatment will need to be repeated. You can also paint the ends of the frame with paint that has been thinly diluted with a solvent. This method of using acrylates or oil compositions will allow them to penetrate wood fibers and seal them, keeping them away from moisture and fungus.

Hello everyone!

When we were thinking about how to cover a wooden house made of profiled timber, we went to a retail outlet where they sell Teknos products. This is the product that the builders recommended.

After monitoring prices, they decided to cover the house with a more budget-friendly antiseptic Tex (review), but we did not find a special product for treating the ends either in chain stores or in retail outlets with paint and varnish products, so it was decided to buy Teknol JRM.

Do you need a special product to cover the ends?

Some builders – “professionals in wooden house construction” – claim that wood cracking is an inevitable process and it is not possible to fight it. Others recommend painting a wooden house as soon as possible and this will prevent the wood from cracking. This advice is ineffective, since modern paints and varnishes for wood form a vapor-permeable coating, and painted wood retains its ability to breathe. If painted wood continues to breathe, gain and release moisture, how will this help in the fight against cracks? Experience shows that numerous cracks also appear on painted houses.

ABOUT TEKNOL JRM:

For effective fight with cracks on wooden houses Finnish concern TEKNOS has developed a special acrylic composition"TEKNOL JRM" (TEKNOL JRM), which, unlike conventional paint and varnish materials, has a unique moisture-proofing property. After applying TEKNOL JRM, a moisture-proof coating is formed on the ends, which blocks the access of moisture to the capillary channels of the wood. As a result, end and side moisture exchange is leveled, internal stresses are reduced and the susceptibility of wood to cracking is significantly reduced.

Everyone has their own opinion whether it is worth treating the ends with a special product or not, we decided to process:

1. to prevent/reduce cracking;

2. highlighting the ends with a different color changes appearance Houses.

PURCHASE

There was a JRM base on sale that could be customized in the suggested colors. Since the roof of the house chocolate color, then we decided to make the ends in color.

On one-story house, having 13 ends of logs, took 3 liters of JRM.

APPLICATION

The product was applied with a brush, it spreads well and has a covering structure.

Since the work was carried out outside, the smell did not cause any discomfort.

They started assembling the house in mid-February, which means it is from a winter forest, not as damp as in summer.

The ends were covered in early June. 13 log ends required 1.5 liters of JRM. After the seams are sealed with sealant, it is planned to apply a second layer.

I won’t tell you the application process, as they will tell you about it upon purchase.

Below is a photo taken a few days after application.


And this photo was taken in the second half of August (still one layer):

Today we will talk about such work as processing the end sides of logs. This is very important stage When building a log house, you shouldn’t think that the neighbor didn’t do anything and the trouble will pass me by. And remember, your neighbor’s trouble has not passed at all, but is lurking and waiting to hit him harder.

Wood is, first of all, a living material, and requires proper attention and care.
Left to chance, vital processes will not lead to anything good. That’s why we will introduce you to why, how and with what to process the end of a log house according to the opinion and experience of the company’s specialists and we hope that we can protect you from unpleasant surprises.
When sawing timber and logs, we open up a “green” street for various kinds of fungi and pathogenic bacteria of the tree; believe us, they will not deny themselves the pleasure of settling in the open pores of the wood and creating their own colonies, which will lead to the development of putrefactive processes.

To prevent such a scourge, the appropriate areas should be treated with special antiseptics.

If there is a need to completely process the entire log house, then the following rules must be taken into account:
- it is impossible to carry out processing immediately after the log house is erected; it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time, approximately one year, so that the wood acquires the necessary moisture content;
- when carrying out work with outside, under no circumstances should you apply products inside the house, allow the wood to “breathe”;
- darkened areas are cleaned only before applying products and not before.
This is what concerns the processing of the house itself, now let's move on to the next stage, ENDS.

The end sides, as we have already written, are nothing more than ordinary cuts, which are “conductors” for tree diseases. This is the “Achilles heel” and treatment is carried out immediately. Why?
Yes, everything is simple, there is no escape from the laws of nature and physics:
- along the side fibers located along the fibers, moisture moves to the end sides very quickly;
- with untreated ends, moisture evaporation occurs unevenly, which leads to the formation of cracks;
- on open areas the end sides of the log are instantly colonized by fungi and other pests, which is favorable high humidity sawn area;
- Treated sides allow drying processes to take place naturally, which prevents the formation of cracks.

SELECTING THE COMPOSITION FOR PROCESSING.
Let's start in the old fashioned way, using our favorite and proven ancient method, using LIME.
This is a natural antiseptic, which also provides excellent protection against UV radiation. The price is cheap, what else do you need? We see joy in the eyes, but don’t rush to go shopping, there is one significant BUT.
This composition will wash away the very first rain, but if you are persistent and continue processing after each precipitation, then it’s up to you. Some people seal the cuts with diluted PVA glue or paint over them with acrylic-based varnish. In these cases, the pores of the wood are completely clogged and air circulation and moisture exchange processes are disrupted.
Currently developed modern means end protections that are functional, easy to use and reliable. Let's look at some formulations from local manufacturers.
Reviews on their use, according to a consumer survey, were divided into two camps, but since such means exist, we will mention them for educational purposes, and the choice to use them or not is yours: “SENEZH TOR” is a gift from Russian manufacturers.
The composition has the ability to deeply impregnate wood fibers, allowing water to pass through, but at the same time controls and reduces the evaporation of moisture from the depths of wood, prevents the formation of cracking and more deep cracks. An environmentally friendly material, as it does not contain toxic components that affect the health of people and the surrounding air. Non-flammable, resistant to sub-zero temperatures.

"NEOMID TOP PLUS" - a "cousin" of the previous composition, forms an elastic film on the surface of the ends, which repels moisture, but allows the wood to "breathe". Protects against rotting and mold formation.

“BIOTOR” - the principle of operation is similar to the previous ones, with natural shrinkage it protects against cracking and reduces deformation.

How to competently trim a log frame.
When building walls, we often see a difference in the length of the logs, there is nothing special here and it is simply necessary to level them with a handy tool, a chainsaw, so that the protrusions are the same. Mandatory grinding will remove darkened areas and small visible flaws when cutting logs.
Work is being done grinder or a “grinder” equipped with a special attachment. The primary process involves sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, and the final one with a finer grit. We warn you that such work should only be carried out in clear, sunny and dry weather! Wet wood is difficult to process, and various kinds of burrs and other scuffs are guaranteed.

During construction wooden houses and the assembly of log houses for shrinkage, the most unprotected area of ​​the wood, even after applying moisture-repellent impregnation, remains the end sections of logs, beams and finishing boards. This is explained by the high hygroscopicity of wood.

When wood dries naturally, it is susceptible to cracking. As air humidity rises, the untreated ends of timber and logs will absorb moisture from the atmosphere like a sponge. It remains to resolve the question of how to process the ends of the logs.

Specialized materials for painting and protecting the ends of timber and logs

  • “Protection for ends” of the German brand “Biofa”, filling the pores of end-cut wood, compacting, gluing, reducing the surface area of ​​evaporation and moisture absorption, which prevents cracking and reduces the risk of fungus and mold. The coating creates an even, rough layer, which allows the ends of the frame to be painted without additional primers. Used for external use.
  • Log house has open cuts of logs inside the house. Doors and window openings, if you give them some protection. For interior work for end protection wood materials The German company Remmers offers a product that forms a moisture-proof film.
  • The elastic product of the Italian manufacturer “Kantenschutz Borma” is used a little more widely. It is a transparent, adhesive primer. "Borma" - good basis for applying water-based or alkyd-based paints. You can simply add color - an aqueous pigment paste - to the transparent protective agent, and no additional painting is required. When using this product, the wood will receive protection from moisture, fungus, and mold. Used for exterior work to seal ends and fill cracks.
  • The range of applications of protective wax from the German manufacturer “SAICOS”, in addition to sealing the ends, consists of processing all external cuts to prevent the formation of cracks. This moisture protection product is distinguished by its dirt-repellent surface and environmentally friendly composition.
  • Protect the ends from external factors Hirnholz-Wachs wax, developed by the German company OSMO, will help. Its penetration into the wood is capillary, which makes it possible to deeply seal the channels of the end cuts. Thanks to this, the log, timber, or board will not suffer major damage to the end sections, as happens with untreated wood.

Damage to crowns, deformations building material It’s easier to avoid if you process the edges of the crowns immediately, without waiting for the effects of excess moisture, ultraviolet rays, or temperature changes on them.

Both overmoistening and overdrying of wood materials lead to damage. To reduce the area of ​​evaporation and moisture absorption, they are used special means end processing.

Special protective materials viscous, because for reliable protection they should fill the pores of the cut. This is possible only on the condition that the product will not be absorbed into the wood, take away moisture from it, or peel off.

Through cross sections, natural moisture retained in the wood after the tree is cut down comes out faster than from the sides of the trunk. If the ends are not covered in a timely manner, the shrinkage will occur unevenly. The contrast will be too significant - the wet inside of the trunk and the overdried ends. In addition to the cracks that appear, the log begins to bend, and the log house begins to warp. Just look at the materials lying for a long time outdoors to verify the correctness of this statement. Without processing the ends:

  • lose their natural color - quickly darken;
  • become infected with a fungus - first black stripes and spots appear, and then mold;
  • eaten by insects and rodents;
  • quickly turn to dust.

And if ownerless logs can simply not be used in construction, then no one will dismantle the laid crowns until the log house finally becomes unusable. Preventive and planned measures will help extend the service life of a building. Special attention should be applied to the ends of the logs, the protection and treatment of which is carried out with means that do not impede the process of air exchange in the wood structure. This characteristic of the composition is very important, since when the natural outlet of moisture from the log is closed, it will begin to rot from the inside. You need to understand that the side of the trunk will not provide an opportunity for optimal disposal of internal dampness of the material.

Cover the ends of wood that has not yet completely dried bitumen mastics is strictly not allowed.



What to process

In the rural outback, the log ends of the frame are coated with lime, which protects against moisture, mold, and insects. This counts classic version, but today it is used less and less. There are more modern domestically produced products on sale that are in no way inferior to their foreign counterparts. Is that their cost is somewhat lower and more affordable for most consumers.

Let's list some antiseptics, which are intended for processing the ends of log logs:

  • BIOTOR - significantly reduces the formation of cracks, limits the impregnation of the ends with moisture, eliminates the curvature of fibers during the drying process of wood;
  • NEOMID TOP PLUS – forms a thin, but integral, water-repellent and “breathable” film on the surface, emphasizes the texture of the wood cut, protects against rot, and protects against fungal infection;
  • SENEZH TOR - penetrates inside the wood structure, allows air to pass through, but is a barrier to the penetration of moisture, prevents the appearance of cracks and mold, has long term active action, practically does not change natural color wood

All of the listed compounds are environmentally friendly. They are certified and therefore do not contain prohibited and harmful components. Timely processing of the ends saves the log from uneven shrinkage, which implies a more stable shrinkage of the walls of a wooden house.

The process of protecting the ends of a log house

The first step, upon completion of the construction of the log house, is to trim the logs, aligning the protrusions of the parallel crowns in the same vertical plane. The work is carried out using a gas or electric saw. As a result, the facade takes on a neat, finished look, and the ends take on a smooth, well-groomed surface.

Crosscutting requires experience, a steady hand and maximum precision.

After leveling the ends, they begin to grind them, or clean up any irregularities. On at this stage get rid of not only visual defects, but also dark spots that predetermine the appearance of fungal infection. They use in their work grinding machine, or a grinder equipped with a special attachment. Experts recommend grinding the ends only in dry weather, and after several sunny days. Relatively dry wood is easier to process, and a stretchy pile of wet fibers does not form on its surface.

After cleaning the ends from wood dust, impregnation is carried out. This process involves the application of a protective preparation that saves the logs from drying out too quickly and from insufficient drying. It is, as it were, a balancing regulator between the dryness and moisture content of the wood. The composition is applied with a wide brush in two times, allowing a time margin between layers to allow high-quality absorption of the drug into the structure of the log. The mixture must be smeared generously, without stretching, otherwise all efforts will be in vain. It should be understood that the end part of the log has a greater absorption capacity than its side surfaces. Taking into account this requirement, it is recommended to purchase the drug in reserve.

Additionally, the ends are treated with special “breathable” sealants. They are manufactured at acrylic base, but are intended specifically for cross sections of wood. Each region has its own brands of similar products, so listing them is pointless. In the nearest construction supermarket, managers will be able to recommend the most popular sealant. But it would be better to ask for reviews from craftsmen working in a particular field. They can be easily found on the Internet.

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