A person who is able to hire a team of builders to build a house or purchase ready-made housing construction is unlikely to be aware of all the intricacies of construction processes. In turn, a thrifty owner who independently builds his dream home understands all the nuances and pitfalls of operating and maintaining the building. Therefore, he knows very well what is meant by a blind area, what it is needed for, what materials it is made from and how to properly build such a structure with your own hands.
The main purpose of the blind area around the house
The foundation blind area means a multifunctional structure that can be made from a variety of building materials. Most often this design made of concrete. Naturally, there are other types of blind areas made of slate sheets, metal, asbestos cement or brick. At the same time, all designs allow us to solve a number of the following issues:
The recommended width of the blind area is usually is at least 600 mm. In this case, it must extend beyond the edges of the roof by 200 mm. If concrete screed around the house it is planned to use it as pedestrian path, then it expands to the required dimensions for convenient movement housing construction residents. Naturally, get too carried away with expanding the blind area to small area not rational.
It is very important to maintain the slope of the blind area so that water is quickly drained from the walls and foundation of the building, so make a slope of 1.5-2 cm for each meter of width. Water flows should not linger on the concrete base. This will not affect the convenience of people moving along the path.
To quickly and efficiently build a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need stock up on the following supplies:
According to the technology for constructing a blind area, such a design provides creating two-layer pillows using different materials:
- To construct the first layer, a sand compaction pad with the addition of crushed stone and clay is used. All components are taken in equal proportions and mixed, after which they are leveled in an even layer up to 30 cm.
- The second and main layer is a concrete screed. Sometimes they lay asphalt, sheet metal, paving slabs, or simply compact a mixture of gravel and clay. The main criterion is the moisture resistance of the material used. For strength, the concrete layer must be at least 10 cm.
The operational life of the foundation of a private house, as well as the costs of its maintenance and repair, directly depend on the quality of the blind area. To carry out independent construction of a concrete screed around a house building, there is a certain sequence of work which must be adhered to.
If the weather outside is hot and dry, then the concrete screed needs to be watered from time to time several times a day. over 2–3 days. Such water procedures help prevent cracking of the upper layers of the blind area due to uneven drying. After the screed is wetted, it must be covered with a polyethylene film to slow down the evaporation of water.
Insulation of the foundation blind area
In the case of heaving soil, at the site of house construction, cracks may form on the blind area, so it is necessary to perform insulation. The thermal insulation layer significantly extends the service life of a private house and other outbuildings. As insulation extruded polystyrene foam is used or standard foam plastic slabs, which are laid on top of the blind area in an even layer, and covered with polyethylene film on top. To strengthen the insulation, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it and a cement-sand mixture screed up to 100 mm thick is poured.
Paving slabs, paving stones or clinker
The most attractive from the aesthetic side is the blind area around the house made using paving stones, clinkers or paving slabs. The tiles are laid, like other decorative materials, on a perfectly flat surface. surface made of crushed stone and sand. In this case, the cushion layer must be at least 50 mm.
After the tiles have been laid, the joints between adjacent elements are filled with further compaction. At the final stage of construction of the blind area, restrictive curbs are installed. The installation of such a foundation protection system can be called an artistic undertaking. Such decorative design has many colors and geometric shapes thanks to the variety of tiles on the construction market.
The blind area using clinker fits harmoniously into the overall stylization of the basement of the house, and with a well-chosen design it looks truly magnificent. In addition, this design is completely copes with rainwater drainage from the foundation of house construction. However, to perform such work with your own hands you will have to have certain skills.
Features of concrete blind area repair
If the homeowner has completed all the work on the construction of the foundation, plinth and blind area in compliance with all technologies, then in most cases, problems should not arise during operation for a long time. But nothing is perfect; this also applies to the blind area, on which cracks or other damage may appear, covering a significant area. In such a situation, you can resort for certain repairs.
To carry out repair work better to give preference autumn or spring season year. In the summer heat, it is advisable to carry out all work either in the early morning or in the evening when there is no intense heat. Otherwise, under the influence of the scorching sun, the concrete will quickly dry out and cracks will form on its surface again.
As you can see, there is nothing difficult in figuring out how to properly make a blind area around the house. At the same time, it is of great importance for protecting the foundation from destruction under the influence of atmospheric precipitation. Once you have correctly made such a protective structure with your own hands, the homeowner will protect the walls of his house from getting wet for a long period, and the basement or basement rooms from flooding with rainwater.
The blind area of a house compared to its foundation has an incomparably lower cost. Do good blind area much easier than building a foundation. But all of the above does not mean that there should be much less attention to this important detail, which, unfortunately, often happens. The blind area may seem like a small cog compared to the entire structure of the house, but the “health” and long life of the entire structure greatly depend on it.
In the article we are going to look in detail at how to make a blind area around the house, and how to do it correctly, and we will also look at different options and indicate in what cases it is advisable to use them. Recommended building materials, which should be used to create a good blind area at home.
A blind area is usually called a strip of waterproof covering that encircles the entire perimeter of the house. Most often, we are accustomed to seeing blind areas made of concrete or asphalt, however, everything is not limited to these two materials. The main task of the classic blind area is to prevent atmospheric water from entering the foundation structure and the soils located near it. Why is this being done?
- Firstly, water that gets to the structure of the foundation base can saturate the soil near it and, if it is shallow, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of heaving forces. The so-called heaving soils, which include clayey and loamy soils, are especially dangerous. The forces of frost heaving are simply enormous, they are trying to squeeze the house out of the ground. If they are distributed unevenly across the foundation, this can lead to cracks and even destruction of the house.
- Secondly, the forces of frost heaving act not only on the sole, but also on the side structures of the foundation. In construction science, such forces are called tangential heaving. According to experts, 1 m² of wall can carry a load of 5-7 tons. Not every structure can withstand this. The blind area is designed to minimize the ingress of water from above.
- Thirdly, waterlogged soil with poor waterproofing of the foundation can cause water to enter the premises ground floor. Even good waterproofing does not always save from leaks or high humidity. Everyone knows the proverb: “Water will always find a hole.” And here the blind area also plays its role, reducing the moisture content of the soil adjacent to the foundation.
- And finally, a poorly made blind area will provoke its own destruction, which will have a bad effect on its protective and decorative qualities.
Creating a high-quality blind area for a house is part of a set of measures for waterproofing the foundation and its drainage - wall or ring. By itself, it is “not a warrior in the field” and will be able to fulfill its main protective purpose only together with other elements. Why do you need a blind area at home?
- As noted earlier, the blind area prevents the penetration of atmospheric water to the foundation of the building. Water that gets onto the blind area must drain from it and enter the surface drainage system.
- The blind area, provided it is insulated, prevents the freezing of the soil beneath it and therefore reduces or eliminates the occurrence of frost heaving forces. This function works best in conjunction with foundation insulation. In northern European countries, insulation of foundations and blind areas have long been mandatory measures in the construction of houses.
- The blind area can serve as a sidewalk along which people move.
- The blind area performs a decorative function. thanks to it, any house in combination with the decoration of the walls and base has a harmonious and complete look. We can say that the blind area is one of the important elements of landscape design.
Almost all houses and buildings require a blind area. For strip, slab, monolithic strip foundations, it is simply necessary. If the house is built on a pile or, then the blind area will serve only a decorative function.
What types of blind areas are there?
Let's consider what types of blind areas exist so that there is an “opportunity” to try on one or another option to suit your conditions and choose the most suitable one.
Clay blind areas
This type of blind area has roots in the distant past. It was this material that our distant ancestors used to protect the foundation of their house from moisture. And, despite the fact that this method of creating a blind area may seem archaic, which is high time to be sent “to the dustbin of history,” it may well be used on modern buildings. Everyone knows the properties of clay - its plasticity, fire resistance and most importantly - water resistance. This material is the best natural waterproofing material. Almost all underground sources of artesian water are located between clay layers. One more thing useful property clay – it is impossible for any plants to grow on it. Of course, if the clay has a certain degree of purity.
This blind area is very easy to make. The fertile layer of soil is removed to a given width and depth, and then clay is poured and compacted. It is better to use clean quarry clay. The profile of the blind area is given a slope in the direction from the wall to its edge, and then the clay is reinforced with gravel or crushed stone, which must be pressed into its layer. An interesting composite coating is formed. Clay provides reliable waterproofing and plasticity, and crushed stone or gravel provides the necessary rigidity of the blind area and prevents erosion by water. A clay blind area together with crushed stone or gravel looks good and can even become an element of home decor, especially a wooden one. The clay blind area will never crack and can be easily repaired. It can serve for decades. Surely many have come across unpaved roads in clay soils ah, which are fortified with stones. They have served for a long time and will continue to serve for a long time. Even trucks in rainy weather do not trample the ruts on such roads.
A significant limitation on the widespread use of clay blind areas is their main drawback– with direct, prolonged and strong exposure to water, the clay will still be gradually washed out. Therefore, in most cases, more modern materials are used.
Concrete blind areas
This type of blind area is the most common. And this is absolutely not in vain. one of the most common materials and blind areas made from it have a number of advantages:
- Properly prepared and laid concrete has high mechanical strength
- Concrete is not afraid of exposure to water and practically does not allow it to pass through, and when treated with various hydrophobic coatings it becomes an ideal waterproofing barrier.
- Concrete blind areas have a long service life - at least 25 years, provided that technology is followed.
- Concrete blind areas can be made independently; this does not require the services of special construction equipment.
- Concrete blind areas can be decorated with pebbles, gravel, and various natural stones.
Concrete blind areas, however, are not without disadvantages:
- Along with high mechanical strength, concrete blind areas are fragile. When heaving forces of different magnitudes occur in different areas of the blind area, cracks may appear. This problem is solved by reinforcement, which makes the blind area significantly more expensive.
- Bare concrete has an unpresentable appearance, beautiful house In a harmonious natural landscape, a concrete blind area will only spoil it.
- A concrete blind area is very difficult to dismantle; it is difficult to make local repairs, the need for which arises sooner or later.
The thickness of the concrete blind area in its thinnest part should be at least 5 cm, but given that it is constantly under the influence of natural forces, it is better to make it at least 7 cm. Naturally, the concrete blind area is given a slope of 3-10° in the direction from walls to its edge. The width should be at least 20-30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves, but in no case less than 60 cm.
The blind area should encircle the entire perimeter of the house and not have a rigid connection with the walls. The fact is that during seasonal soil movements, the structure of the house and the blind area will behave differently and the presence of a rigid connection will lead to the appearance of cracks. Besides this, different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. That's why they do the so-called expansion or expansion joint , which, on the one hand, provides the necessary seal to prevent water penetration, and on the other hand, allows mutual movements of the house and the blind area. Expansion joints have been made from tarred boards since ancient times, but now various types can be used synthetic materials. Very often, expansion joints are made from roofing felt or polyethylene foam folded in half. There are also special damper tapes for screeds or heated floors, which can also be used for an expansion joint between the blind area and the base of the house.
Expansion joints must also be installed in the concrete blind area. They are made in the corners, and then every 1.5-2.5 meters. Oiled or tarred edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of laminated plywood or OSB are used as seams. When pouring a blind area, they serve as beacons for leveling it and later, after setting, they can be removed and filled with polyurethane-based sealants or left in place.
Blind areas made of asphalt and asphalt concrete
Such blind areas are also quite widespread, but mainly not in residential construction, but in industrial or commercial facilities. Asphalt is more plastic than concrete, and the likelihood of cracks appearing on it is negligible. Asphalt blind areas are less material-intensive, since 3-4 cm is enough to create a durable and water-resistant coating. They are quite durable and can last for decades.
However, asphalt blind areas have been widely used only in the construction of non-residential buildings. When heated sun rays asphalt can soften and the hydrocarbons that make up the bitumen, which is the binder for this type of coating, begin to evaporate from it. In addition, laying asphalt requires the use of special road equipment.
Blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs
This type of blind area will be most preferable if the house is planned to fit harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. Cozy and beautiful garden with paths made of paving stones, a plinth finished with natural stone or its imitation will be in perfect harmony with blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs. Natural stone can also be included in the same category, since from the point of view of technology for preparing the base and laying it there are no big differences. Natural stone However, it requires highly qualified craftsmen.
What are the advantages of blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs?
- As noted earlier, this is an attractive appearance.
- Properly laid high-quality paving stones or paving slabs have a long service life. According to the manufacturers, at least 20 years.
- High-quality paving stones have good frost resistance.
- Coverings made of paving stones or paving slabs made by vibration pressing (namely, these are recommended for blind areas or paths), in wet weather or in cold season not as slippery as concrete, asphalt or vibrating tiles.
Vibropressed paving stones are an excellent material for blind areas
- Each paving stone is laid separately on the base, so this type of coating is not prone to cracking.
- Coatings made from paving stones or paving slabs are distinguished by their environmental friendliness.
- A blind area made of paving stones can also serve as a path along which people can walk.
- High strength and wear resistance.
- Blind areas made of paving stones can be repaired locally; complete dismantling is not required.
- or you can lay paving slabs yourself. This does not require the use of special construction equipment.
The main disadvantage of blind areas made of paving stones is its relatively high cost compared to “classic” concrete ones. There is a good way out of this situation - if the blind area will only be walked on, then it can be paved with paving slabs, which are both thinner and cheaper than paving stones. Areas and paths that will be subject to increased loads can already be paved with paving stones that harmonize with the blind area. Most manufacturers of vibropressed paving slabs or paving stones offer products of different thicknesses. Once laid, it is no longer possible to distinguish where the stones are thicker and where they are thinner. The construction of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs is shown in the figure.
Paving stones or paving slabs also have one important feature, which can appear as in in good shape, and vice versa. Such coatings are laid on a sandy base and have gaps between adjacent elements. When water gets onto the paving area, most of it will be received by storm water inlets, taking into account the required slope, and flow down the gutters and surface into the water intake trays of the surface drainage system. But some part will still be able to seep between the paving stone elements into the underlying layers. Now let's look at how this feature can manifest itself in good and bad ways.
- Let's talk about the good stuff first. If water seeps through the seams, then such a coating will be dry and puddles will not stagnate on it. Of course, this is very useful for paths where the surface is horizontal, but the blind area has a slope and most of it will still flow into the water intake trays. But some of it will still end up in the underlying preparation.
- Now about the not very good possible manifestations. Let's say the house is built on heavy clay soils and the blind area of paving stones or paving slabs is made correctly. Underneath it there are both crushed stone and sand layers that can accept a certain amount of water. When the snow melts, a situation may arise when the water completely saturates both sand and crushed stone and there is simply nowhere for it to go, since on one side there is a foundation wall with good waterproofing, and on the bottom and sides there are heavy clay soils. If a thaw is replaced by severe frosts, which often happens in climatic zones Russia, then the water in the crushed stone and sand layer will freeze and accordingly expand in volume. The blind area can collapse in such conditions very quickly. Even after one season of use.
On thematic forums dedicated to construction, a lot of questions are raised about paving stones and paving slabs in general and blind areas made from them in particular. Developers are sometimes simply perplexed because a good and impeccably laid paving area begins to swell after the first winter. And this most often happens due to the fact that when the snow melts, crushed stone and sand become saturated with water, which simply has nowhere to go due to the clay soils around. This problem can be solved very simply, but not free:
- The first solution to the problem is drainage. In the case of blind areas, this is high-quality wall-mounted deep drainage, as well as surface point and linear drainage. You can read more about drainage on our portal. Preference should be given to drainage with a wall-mounted relief geomembrane. Then water, having got into the gravel and sand, will not linger in them, but will flow down, where it will be “picked up” and removed by the drainage system.
- The second solution to the problem is insulating the foundation. This measure will avoid freezing of the soil in the area of the foundation and blind area. Materials and technology are described in our portal.
The blind area around the house, in addition to vibro-pressed concrete paving stones, can also be made from more expensive natural materials.
- It may be a natural “wild” stone, which owes its name to its irregular shape.
- Natural chipped, split-sawn or full-sawn granite paving stones are also used as the top layer of the blind area. This is a very worthy option, but the cost is very immodest.
- A blind area made of clinker paving stones in combination with finishing the base with clinker tiles not only looks rich, but also has a very long service life. This option is no less modest than a blind area made of granite paving stones.
We will look in detail at how to make a blind area from paving stones or paving slabs in one of the following sections of our article.
Soft blind areas
It may seem that there is some kind of catch hidden in the name itself. We are subconsciously accustomed to perceiving the blind area as tough and reliable design, and the word “soft” seems inappropriate. However, this is far from the case. Such blind areas have been used for a very long time and successfully. For many decades, soft blind areas have served without repair, and in climate zones where they are exposed to water, snow, severe frosts and heat in different seasons.
Some types of soft blind areas are also called Finnish, thanks to the country where they are widespread. It is difficult to convict the inhabitants of Finland of stupidity and impracticality; they live in stricter climatic conditions than most regions of Russia, they are building a lot of good and comfortable houses for living. It is not for nothing that Finnish builders are considered one of the best in the world. It is possible that it makes sense for us to learn some experience from the Finns.
As noted earlier, the blind area must solve two main problems. The first is to prevent water from entering the foundation structure and the soil near it, and the second is to preserve the integrity of the blind area itself in order to maintain its presentable appearance and solve the first problem. That is, the integrity of the blind area is one of the main tasks and a person is forced to constantly fight for this through reinforcement, creation of expansion joints, drainage and other measures. The wise Finns decided to stop fighting and make the area soft. One of the options for implementing this approach is shown in the figure.
The main thing in the construction of soft blind areas is a very interesting approach - you don’t need to worry too much about the integrity, solidity and waterproofness of the structure of the top decorative layer, but rather focus on how to remove water that has already penetrated through it. That is, the “most interesting”, those elements that carry exactly protective function, in these types the blind area is out of sight. If water penetrates through top layer, then it’s better not to interfere with it - let it seep into your health and the sooner the better. But then the water is already “waiting” for the drainage pipe, which also “gladly” accepts it and carries it away from the foundation into the wells.
The permeable layer on which the blind area and the drainage pipe are located are securely cut off from other soils by some kind of waterproofing material. It can be roofing felt or other materials, for example, PVC films for swimming pools.
The best results for waterproofing are provided by so-called PVP membranes (profiled waterproof polyethylene). They are made of high-density polyethylene (HPDE), which is completely inert to all substances that may be found in the soil. According to official documents - test reports, the service life of the PVP membrane declared by the manufacturers is at least 60 years, but in reality it will be longer if installed correctly. This means that you won’t have to do waterproofing again during your entire long and happy life. In principle, the durability of the membrane is approximately equal to the average lifespan of a house.
PVP membranes have irregularities on their surface in the form of truncated cones, 8 mm high. Thanks to these protrusions, water easily collects on the surface and flows off under the influence of gravity. Therefore, the membrane in a soft blind area is always laid at a slope in the direction drainage pipe. For laying in the ground, it is better to use a composite geomembrane consisting of two bonded layers. The first layer is the PVP membrane itself, and the second is a geotextile fabric that freely allows water to pass through and does not allow the surrounding soil to fill the entire space between the relief protrusions.
For waterproofing a blind area, a profiled geomembrane bonded with geotextile is best suited
Soft blind areas may have different finishing layers, that is, those that are visible from the outside.
- The blind area can be filled with crushed stone or gravel, which will give it a natural look. Such blind areas will always be in harmony with the surrounding landscape.
- Colored decorative or gravel is currently widely used. With their help, you can realize the most daring design ideas. These blind areas, and other landscape elements, look very good.
- The outer layer of the soft blind area can generally be made from fertile soil on which to plant a lawn. It will seem that there is no blind area, although we already know that the main thing is underground. Houses made of logs or standing in the middle of emerald green lawns look simply amazing.
Soft blind areas are increasingly used in individual housing construction in Russia. And this is quite justified, because their advantages are obvious:
- The soft blind area is not afraid of seasonal soil movements, which have always been, are and will be in any, even impeccable structure. After freezing and thawing, and, accordingly, movement, the blind area returns to its place. Accordingly, there is no need to equip expansion joints.
- The soft blind area does not have to be made on a slope, since water drainage occurs under it. This allows them to be used as a pedestrian area. Even a blind area with a top layer of lawn can be a pedestrian zone if it is well drained and reinforced, for example, with geogrids.
Lawn reinforced with geogrid
- The soft blind area is easy to repair in case of local damage, and also easy to completely dismantle.
- The soft blind area has an attractive appearance that is in harmony with nature. The use of colored decorative crushed stone or gravel allows you to create unique compositions. And also on such a blind area you can plant various plants: lawn grass or various flowers and small shrubs. For this, however, special measures will have to be taken.
- A soft blind area is cheaper than concrete or paving stones, and the process of creating it is less labor-intensive.
The disadvantages of soft blind areas include:
- When constructing a soft blind area special attention should be paid to the preparation of the base, waterproofing the foundation and the drainage system. If a concrete blind area is guaranteed to “throw” water away from the foundation across its width even with a poor drainage system, then a soft one under the same conditions may not be able to cope with the incoming water.
- Crushed stone or gravel covering of a soft blind area is more difficult to clean from dust and debris than concrete or paving stones.
- Various weeds can grow through the gravel and will require periodic removal.
- Lawn blind areas also require constant maintenance.
In some sources, blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs are classified as soft, arguing for this choice by the fact that such structures do not have a rigid base. We deliberately do not do this for two reasons:
- A blind area made of or paving slabs can hardly be called soft even by tactile sensations.
- Very often, to increase the reliability of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs, it is made on a concrete base, on which a thin (5-7 cm) layer of cement-sand mixture is poured. Clinker tiles or paving stones are laid only on concrete base using special adhesive mixtures. Such blind areas simply cannot be called soft anymore.
In order to avoid unnecessary disputes about whether a particular type of structure belongs to soft or hard, in this article we consider blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs in a separate category. It will be much easier this way.
Is it necessary to insulate the blind area?
In the recent past, some 20-30 years ago, such issues did not arise at all during the construction of houses in our country. The foundation could be insulated with expanded clay poured into the sinuses, but the blind area was not separately insulated at all. The foundation was always laid below the soil freezing level. And this was one of the few measures to protect the foundation from seasonal ground movements on heaving soils. However, construction science and technology did not stand still; new materials appeared along with them. As a result, in global construction practice they came to one conclusion: in order to reduce the negative impact of frost heaving forces on the foundation, especially on heaving soils, it must be insulated. In addition, this makes it possible to reduce the depth of the foundation base in the ground, which significantly reduces its costs. And if the foundation itself is insulated, then the blind area must also be insulated. Only this way and no other way! Here are the main reasons why it is necessary to insulate the foundation and blind areas.
- If the house has a heated basement, then insulation of the foundation and blind area is mandatory. This, firstly, will reduce heat loss, and secondly, it will prevent soil freezing, which will reduce heaving forces. With a properly calculated foundation and its insulation, soil freezing can be avoided.
- If the house has a shallow foundation, then insulation of both the foundation and the blind area is mandatory. Shallow-depth systems, which are now gaining popularity slab foundations type USHP (insulated Swedish plate) must be insulated on all sides, including from below.
- Insulating the blind area still makes sense so that melt water that gets into the crushed stone and sand layers of the substrate does not freeze when the temperature drops, but calmly goes into the drainage pipes.
Insulation of the blind area does not need to be done only in two cases:
- When a house is built on pile foundation. But then, in principle, no blind area is needed.
- When the house has a submerged uninsulated foundation and does not have a basement floor. In this case, insulating the blind area is simply a pointless burying of insulation in the ground.
Completely different materials are offered as insulation, but in order to save readers from the agony of choice, we offer only the best in terms of price and quality. This is extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam - EPS. Why is it recommended to use this particular material?
- Firstly, EPS has low thermal conductivity (0.029-0.032 W/(m*K°), which in principle explains its use as insulation.
- Secondly, XPS has a high mechanical strength. Compressive strength with deformation of no more than 10% is no less than 0.25-0.5 N/mm². That's quite a lot. The foundations of houses are built on this insulation.
- Thirdly, XPS has a low density. One cubic meter of this material has a mass of 38 to 45 kg.
- Fourthly, EPPS has extremely low water absorption (no more than 0.2-0.4%) and vapor permeability (0.013 Mg/(m*h*Pa)), which is very useful when located in the ground.
- Fifthly, EPS is very easy to process and install. Required minimum set tools.
- Sixth, EPS is durable. Its service life in the ground is at least 30-50 years.
- Seventh, XPS under normal operating conditions does not emit any harmful substances, does not harm either living beings or nature.
- And finally, XPS has a reasonable cost. The presence on the market of a large number of this insulation from different manufacturers plays into the hands of us, the consumers.
The world's most popular insulation material is extruded polystyrene foam.
The thickness of the insulation of the blind area is calculated, but in no case should it be less than 5 cm.
As an example, we will consider in detail the processes of creating three types of blind areas: reinforced concrete, paving stones and soft ones.
DIY concrete blind area
Let's consider the process of creating a concrete insulated blind area around the house. At the end of this section, a calculator will be offered that, based on the perimeter of the house, its configuration and the size of the blind area, will help calculate the volume of concrete required for laying.
Let’s say right away that the number of options for implementing a concrete blind area using various materials and technologies are endless. It is simply impossible to describe them all not only in one article, but even in a multi-volume publication. We will describe one of many, but one that has been implemented on a large number of objects and has been successfully operated for quite a long time. for a long time in order to say that such a design justifies itself. For ease of perception, let us present the main stages of the process of creating a concrete blind area in the form of a table.
| Image | Process Description |
|---|---|
 | Work should be carried out only in the warm season. First, the blind area is marked. It should be no less than 20-30 cm wide than the overhang of the roof eaves. The smallest height is 7 cm, slope 3-10°. First, the outer edge of the blind area is marked using a cord stretched level between stakes driven into the ground. If curb stones and drainage trays for a surface drainage system are installed, their width is also taken into account, since the soil must be developed for them as well. The horizontalness of the cord is checked with a spirit level or laser level. |
 | The upper level of the blind area junction is marked on the plinth wall. To do this, marks are made in one place at a convenient height (1-1.5 m), and then they are transferred to other places using laser level or spirit level. Next, using a plumb line and a tape measure, the horizontal is transferred down. The junction line can be drawn with a pencil or marker, but it is most convenient to “beat it off” with a paint cord. |
 | On the marked base, soil is removed to a depth of at least 30 cm. The main thing is to remove the entire fertile layer and “get” to a solid, reliable foundation on which the blind area will lie. If necessary, the soil is removed to greater depths. It is imperative to get rid of the roots of all plants and to prevent their growth in the future, you can treat the soil with herbicides. The profile of the bottom of the trench is given a slope towards the outer edge of the blind area. |
 | An underlying layer of quarry “fat” clay can be poured onto the bottom of the trench, which is then compacted. This layer is also given a slope. If the site has clay or loamy soils, then they can only do so by compacting the bottom of the trench. |
 | Formwork made of edged boards, which are secured using wooden pegs or pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground. The upper edge of the formwork is aligned along the previously tensioned cord and checked with a level. |
 | The bottom of the trench is lined with a non-woven geotextile thermally bonded fabric with a density of at least 150 g/m², which must completely cover the bottom and have at least 30 cm of overlap with the plinth wall and the edge of the trench. Geotextiles are needed to separate dissimilar soils. |
 | Layers of coarse construction sand at least 20 cm thick are poured onto the geotextile layer. The sand is leveled with a rake, spilled with water and compacted for the first time. It is preferable to use mechanized method tamping using a vibrating plate. |
 | IN hard to reach places Where a vibrating plate cannot pass, a manual rammer is used. After the first tamping, add sand in the right places and tamp again. The process of pouring water and compacting is continued until there is a smooth and dense sand base on which there are practically no traces left when walking. |
 | If elements of the surface drainage system are installed - storm water inlets and sewer discharge pipes from them, then holes and trenches are dug for them in the already compacted sand. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the level of the future blind area - the rainwater inlet must be installed at its level, taking into account the slope. It must be installed on a concrete solution with a layer of at least 5 cm. Sewer pipes must also be laid with a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter pipes. |
 | Trenches with pipes and installation pits for rainwater inlets are sprinkled with sand, which is then compacted. In places where sewer pipes pass and near storm water inlets, this can only be done carefully and manually. |
 | 5 cm thick EPS insulation is laid on a layer of compacted sand. If the upper part of the base has not been insulated, then this can be done simultaneously with the blind area. Insulation boards are laid on a compacted sand base. If necessary, they can be easily trimmed with a construction knife. The slabs must lie tightly on the base. If necessary, when laying them, sand is added in the right places. |
 | After installation, the seams between the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam. |
 | An expansion joint is formed at the junction of the blind area and the base. This can be done by doubling roofing felt, polyethylene foam, and special self-adhesive tape for heated floor seams and glued to the wall. The seam should protrude beyond the upper edge of the future blind area by 5-10 cm. If the blind area is adjacent to polystyrene foam insulating the base, then it will be necessary to additional materials No. |
 | A metal reinforcing mesh made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm and a cell size of 100*100 mm is laid on the insulation layer. The mesh is trimmed in the right places. The edge of the mesh should be 5 cm from the end of the blind area. If it is necessary to lay more than one mesh, then an overlap is made by one cell, and then the meshes are fastened with knitting wire. |
 | The reinforcing mesh should be located in the concrete layer in its lower part at a distance of 3-4 cm from the insulation. To install the mesh on required height It is best to use special reinforcement clamps, which have different heights and are designed for different surfaces. To install reinforcing mesh It is better to use clamps for loose surfaces. Before laying concrete, all parts of the surface drainage system are covered plastic film. |
 | Beacons are made from edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of OSB boards or thin laminated plywood, which will simultaneously serve as expansion (compensation) joints in the blind area. Segments are cut from them the right size, which are attached at one end to the base at the previously designated level, and at the other to the formwork. The upper edge of the beacons should coincide with the surface of the future blind area, and the lower edge should be tightly pressed against the insulation slabs. Beacons are placed in the corners, as well as every 1.5-2.5 m along the entire length of the blind area. A distance of 2 m is considered optimal. |
 | To fill the blind area, use concrete grade M250-M300, but not lower. Read more about the recipe and preparation of concrete of the desired grade in the right amount can be read on our portal. The volume required for the blind area can be calculated in the calculator at the end of this chapter. |
 | To improve the properties of concrete when preparing it, it is recommended to use plasticizers, as well as add polypropylene or basalt fiber. |
 | It is better to mix concrete using a concrete mixer or mixer - such mixtures have best quality than those kneaded by hand. |
 | Concrete is laid gradually, in sections between the beacons. Concrete is first laid on the surface, then spread with a trowel or shovel, and then leveled aluminum rule by lighthouses. After laying in one area between the beacons, they move on to another. |
 | 1-2 hours after installation, it is necessary to iron the blind area. To do this, pour a thin layer of dry cement - about 2 mm - through a sieve onto the upper surface of the concrete. Then, using a polyurethane hand float, dry cement is rubbed into the surface of the blind area. Walking on the blind area is possible only after 48 hours. |
 | For high-quality maturation of concrete, it is necessary to moisten its surface daily with water, and then cover it with plastic film or a damp thick cloth. This operation should be done within 10-14 days. |
 | After the concrete has completely hardened - after 28 days, the formwork is dismantled. The blind area is ready. |
In the future, the blind area can be equipped curb stone, do along the edges storm sewer– install drainage trays and sand traps. How to do this is described in detail in an article on this topic on our portal.
Video: Construction of a concrete blind area
Calculator for calculating the required volume of concrete for a blind area
We provide readers of our portal with the opportunity to independently calculate the volume of concrete required for the blind area. The initial data for the calculation are geometric dimensions blind area: its height at the wall, height at the end, width. And also for calculations you need to know the perimeter of the house: the sum of the lengths of all its sides. This calculator calculates the volume only for houses with a rectangular configuration; if there are any roundings in the foundation, then this calculator cannot be used or it will be possible to calculate the volume only on straight sections.
The calculations also take into account the configuration of the house, namely how many external or internal corners. If you need to calculate the volume of concrete for any straight section, then you must indicate that the number of external and internal corners is zero.
The longevity of a building depends on the condition of the foundation, the health of which is determined by reliable and efficient drainage surface waters from home at any time. This task is performed by the blind area, which primarily has a protective function. One of the most common and accessible is the technology of arranging a concrete blind area around a building. Its correct design, created with your own hands, will effectively perform its functions for many years.
What does it represent?
The blind area is an external waterproof basement concrete structure in the form of a continuous path along the perimeter of the building, sloping from the wall towards the surrounding terrain adjoining plot. Its arrangement involves a tight but movable connection to the base of the house.
The structure is a layered “pie” consisting of materials that together keep the foundation dry. The basis of such protection is in proportion: a compacted, even underlying layer of sand (crushed stone, clay), waterproofing and a coating - concrete, which ensures the waterproofness of the structure.
Functions performed
A properly equipped blind area ensures the longevity of the structure, preventing the destruction of the foundation and structures of the house by precipitation moisture, melt water. A blind area without concrete, created with your own hands, is a temporary measure that does not solve the entire complex of problems of such a design.
Main function correct blind area- divert and transport water a sufficient distance from the foundation towards the lowest place on the site or into a storm drain.
In addition to the function of a horizontal hydrobarrier, the blind area (especially insulated) reduces the freezing of the soil around the house, which reduces the likelihood of it swelling (rising), and also reduces the thermal conductivity of the building. A blind area without concrete does not prevent periodic moisture of the soil close to the foundation and, as a result, the harmful effects that hard plant roots can cause to it. Safety device also gives the building an aesthetically finished look and can be used as a pedestrian path.
Requirements for the blind area and rules for the device
Diagram of a structure using reinforced concrete. The encircling protective structure must have the same width, the value of which is 20–30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves beyond the wall of the building. It is generally accepted that it is about 1 m (or more on subsiding soils). The blind area is buried to no more than half the depth of soil freezing in the area. Thickness concrete covering selectable within 7 – 10 cm (up to 15 cm if used as a path).
The recommended slope of the coating is 92 - 94 degrees relative to the wall of the building (or 10 - 100 mm per 1 meter of blind area width). The height of the base above the blind area at the junction of the structure is set to 50 cm. Its outer lower edge should be raised approximately 50 mm above ground level, which prevents the accumulation of water at the edge. The technology for creating a structure assumes the possibility of its integral movement following soil deformations relative to the foundation, which ensures near-wall.
How to make a blind area?
Markings are made on the area, the fertile layer of soil is removed. The underlying (clay) is laid. Geotextiles (for example, roofing felt) are laid. The formwork is formed taking into account expansion joints. The area is reinforced. Concrete for the blind area is prepared in the correct proportion and poured into the formwork. The coating surface is laid out with the selected slope along the edge of the formwork and leveled. The concrete is given time to dry.
Preparation of tools and materials
The marking quality is checked building level. For excavation work you will need shovels, a pick, twine, tape measure, rammer, and pegs. The required volume of geotextile (waterproof film) for the water seal should be calculated. Components for mixing concrete (washed sand, water, gravel, crushed stone of fractions 5 - 10 mm, cement) or (for example, grade M400 and higher) are required in the required quantity and proportion. Tools also include a mixer (container) for forming the solution, buckets, carts (stretchers), and a measuring bucket. The laying of the underlying layer must be provided with sufficient sand (clay).
The formwork is formed from boards, but a hacksaw, level, nails, and hammer are also useful. (steel wire), which should be delivered. Will be needed welding machine, a tool for cutting pieces of reinforcement. A long rule, trowel, and spatulas will help in laying and leveling concrete. The construction of seams will require polyurethane sealant.
A trench is marked around the house with pegs and string. The level at which the blind area adjoins the plinth is marked with beacons in 1.5 m increments. A layer of fertile soil is removed around the building, taking into account the layout of the surrounding surface. The bottom of the trench is compacted and leveled with the already formed slope (herbicides can be added). The depth of the passage can be 500 mm (on heaving soils).
Creation and compaction of a sand cushion
The bottom of the trench is lined with sand, the surface of which is also profiled with a slope. The material is abundantly moistened and compacted. The operation should be repeated at least twice. The thickness of the layer can be up to 20 cm. Its surface is carefully leveled.
Using roll waterproofing materials for blind area. Its device involves laying two layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt) on a sand substrate, which are slightly folded onto the wall to create an expansion joint. At the joints the material is overlapped. Next, the geotextile is covered more thin layer sand, and then gravel (about 10 cm thick) with a slope of the top layer and compacted. It is advisable to place close to such a water seal drainage system.
Creating formwork
Removable wooden mold protects the place where concrete is poured. It is reinforced with strong pegs with outside. The form provides for transverse expansion joints(after 2 - 2.5 m), which are installed, including at the corners of the formwork diagonally. Their tightness is formed by placing them on edge wooden blocks(butyl rubber belts), impregnated with waste oil and coated with bitumen.
The edges of the mold must be straight for the rule to apply. The difference in its height must correspond to the slope of the blind area. The height of the formwork corresponds to the thickness of the concrete. The expansion joint near the wall (10 - 20 mm wide) is filled with roofing material (hydro-swelling cord).
Reinforcement and filling
The process of pouring the blind area of a house with concrete. A metal mesh of 50x50 (100x100) mm is used, which can be tied to pieces of reinforcement driven into the base in increments of 0.75 m. The mesh is raised above the level of crushed stone by 30 mm. Concrete is mixed and poured with your own hands in portions into the formwork sections to the level of its upper edge.
There should be no air pockets in the concrete. Correct proportions concrete mixture for blind areas they must correspond to frost resistance. The composition of concrete for the blind area is traditional (corresponding grade from M400 and above). Components that increase strength and durability can be added to the solution in proportion.
Construction of a blind area around the house
The familiar “paths” along the perimeter of apartment buildings and private buildings are nothing more than blind areas that prevent the destruction of the building’s foundation. The presence of a protective strip is a mandatory condition for the operation of any home. Even if the building is located in a dry climate, and the soil on the site is not considered difficult, the blind area should still be present.
It also happens: a house is purchased ready-made, but does not have a protective area around the perimeter. Then you will have to decide for yourself how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, otherwise you will soon have to worry about repairing the foundation or basement.
Types of blind areas and their features
They often talk about the numerous functional advantages of the blind area. However, many of them are far-fetched. The main function of the blind area around the house is protective.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: a blind area made according to all the rules creates an excellent waterproof barrier. This means that no precipitation, melted or even partially groundwater will not reach the foundation. Thus, at low cost, they increase the durability and preserve the integrity of the entire house.
We can, of course, mention the aesthetic properties of the blind area around the house, when a beautifully designed protective strip emphasizes external finishing walls of the building or fits organically into the local . But this parameter relates more to the individual wishes of the owners.
The blind area around the house implies the presence of two layers:
- the base, which bears the main load in terms of strength and durability;
- coating responsible for stability and waterproofing.
Any blind area consists of a base (underlying layer) and a covering
Classification is usually carried out according to the second parameter, although the structure of the base is not a constant value.
The blind area around the house is:
- sandy;
- turf;
- crushed stone;
- asphalt concrete;
- from reinforced concrete slabs;
- with monolithic concrete covering;
- mixed options.
Mixed options are those that are made from improvised materials in compliance with technological features creating shoots.
Most often these are combinations of residues floor tiles and concrete.
Blind area around the house: general rules
The protective strip around the perimeter of the building is always created in accordance with certain standards. How to make a blind area around the house, the main three parameters that need to be taken into account:
- width;
- depth;
- incline.
The width of the blind area varies from 60 cm to a meter or more. The determining factors are two points:
- roof overhang;
- additional purpose of the protective strip.
Add 30-40 cm to the roof overhang and get optimal width blind areas. If in the future it is planned to use this area as a path, path or for a flower bed/lawn, then the width is selected in accordance with these requirements. Also, strict requirements are imposed on blind areas on heaving soils - their width must be at least 0.9 m.
Important!
The depth of the blind area is important for correct installation technology. Typically 0.2 meters are allocated for the base and 0.1 meters for the top layer. Naturally, these values are not finite and may vary depending on the specifics of the work.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands
The angle of inclination is a parameter responsible for the speed of moisture drainage from the surface of the blind area. The minimum possible value is 1%, but if you decide to properly make a blind area around the house, then stick to 5-6%. According to building regulations, the slope in any case should not be more than 10%.
Blind area around the house: slope
Also at the stage preparatory work it is necessary to take care of the quality of the trench. Quality means treating the land with herbicides and manually removing large root systems. This is done in order to further avoid the growth of plants through the materials of the blind area and its destruction.
And the last point regarding the creation of a high-quality blind area is the continuity of the protective strip around the entire perimeter.
Having taken into account all these points and having decided on the type of blind area, you can proceed directly to the work.
Sandy blind area around the house: simple and high quality
A sand-based protective strip is a simple and inexpensive way to create a blind area. To carry out the work you will need:
- sand;
- shovel;
- – potassium (sodium) silicate;
- boiler;
- watering can;
- hardener – a solution of calcium chloride (5-10%) or sodium fluoride (3-7%);
- dense polyethylene film.
The sandy area around the house is done as follows:
- A trench 0.25 meters deep and the required width is prepared.
- Treated with herbicide.
- It is filled with sand so that the first layer is at least 0.1 cm. At the same time, make sure that the required angle of inclination of the protective strip is maintained.
- The surface of the sand is compacted.
- Liquid glass or silicate is prepared for work according to the instructions attached to it.
- Liquid glass is applied to a layer of compacted sand. It is convenient to use a regular watering can here.
- A layer of hardener is applied on top.
- For the second layer of sand, a finer fraction of a homogeneous structure is used.
- Liquid glass and hardener are applied.
- Cover the blind area with film and leave for several days.
The whole complexity of this technology is working with liquid glass, which usually takes some time to prepare. Otherwise, difficulties do not arise even for inexperienced masters.
Concrete blind area around the house: quality for many years
The area around the perimeter of the house, protected from the weather by a concrete layer - best solutions for those who choose quality and durability. This blind area is suitable for any type of soil, including heaving soil. If performed correctly, it will not require restoration work or additional care measures.
How to make a blind area around a concrete house is not at all difficult, the main thing is to observe the order and density of the layers, and also use only the materials recommended for the work.
Concrete blind area - a combination of durability and strength
Sequence of operations for laying a concrete blind area:
- Prepare a trench 0.2-.25 m deep, from the bottom of which plant roots are removed and additionally treated with herbicides.
- The first layer of the base is sand 0.1-0.15 m thick, which should be thoroughly compacted.
- The second layer is waterproofing, for example: .
- The third base layer is sand.
- The fourth layer is crushed stone. It is poured to ground level, that is, the hole is completely covered.
- Prepare formwork with a wall height of about 0.1 m.
- The formwork is poured to a height of about 7 cm with concrete. Choose better between brands M200 or M300.
- Without allowing the concrete to set, reinforcement mesh is laid.
- Pour the top layer of concrete to the top edge of the formwork, while simultaneously creating the desired slope for the blind area.
- Conduct ironing concrete to improve its waterproofing properties. To do this, the surface of the newly poured mortar is sprinkled with cement and leveled using a trowel.
A concrete blind area around a house requires the mandatory creation of temperature expansion joints that will prevent the concrete from collapsing under temperature fluctuations and humidity changes. One expansion joint must pass at the junction of the house wall and the blind area, and protective strips must be created at intervals of no more than 2.5 meters in length.
Expansion joints cross concrete blind area every 2-2.5 meters, and also run along the perimeter of the building
As a barrier, any of the following materials are laid between concrete sections:
- oiled wooden blocks;
- flexible vinyl tapes;
- roofing felt;
- damper tape or other analogue.
You can create expansion joints using liquid formulations. To do this, during the work process, gaps of about 20 mm thick are left, which are subsequently filled with liquid glass or concrete.
In addition, it is for this type of protective perimeter that professional builders recommend strengthening the adhesion of the foundation and blind area. To do this, use a hammer drill to make recesses in the wall so that when pouring concrete, about 0.3-0.35 m deep into the wall. More reliable adhesion is provided by pieces of reinforcement, which are driven into the groove made and concreted in the main layer of the blind area.
Blind areas made of clay, crushed stone and other materials
Protective perimeters made of sand and concrete are the most popular, but other technological solutions are also common.
A blind area made of crushed stone is created from a sequence of layers:
- clay – 0.1-0.15 m;
- waterproofing material;
- coarse sand – 0.1-0.15 m;
- geotextiles;
- crushed stone
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands from paving slabs:
The sequence of layers is the same, but there is a peculiarity. To prevent the heavy stones of the paving slabs from sliding down the slope, the perimeter of the blind area will need to be lined with a curb stone or something similar.
The created border is mounted in a concrete lock to avoid deformation of the “fence” under the weight of the main finish.
You can experiment with “soft” solutions. The simplest blind area around a house of this type is done according to the following scheme:
- Placed in a trench dug on a slope .
- Some of the earth is poured back.
- The surface layer is made of pebbles or gravel.
Combinations of techniques are also possible to achieve an optimal aesthetic and functional effect.
The most important thing is that all the work is quite easy to do yourself. After all, it does not require special professionalism, special equipment or specific skills. All the craftsmen need is 2-4 days of free time and the desire to make a high-quality and inexpensive blind area around the house.
To insulate the foundation and protect it from soil mobility, blind areas are often made around the house. This operation is easy to do on your own if you have some skills or simply follow the recommendations of professional developers.
The pouring of the blind area itself takes little time. And the cost of materials will be quite small. But the benefits that the building’s foundation will receive will be plenty.
The main function of this structure is to protect the foundation of the building from destruction during operation. After all, the main factor that affects the damage to the foundation of a building is proximity groundwater and soil mobility due to freezing and thawing.
But not only for protection, a blind area around the perimeter of the building is poured. Using this design, you can significantly insulate not only the base of the building, but also the floors in the house. And this is already quite a big plus for making a blind area.
Constant dryness in the basement, no fungus on external walls at home, excellent ventilation of the base is another argument in favor of installing any type of blind area.
Beauty and well-groomed surroundings of the house, neat paths that are comfortable to walk on - additional function blind area around the foundation.
Performing blind areas yourself
It is better to start making the structure at the stage of laying the foundation. This will allow you to properly make a blind area around the house without additional hassle. But if the building has already been purchased, and the blind area around the perimeter of the building’s base is dilapidated or at the stage of destruction, then a new blind area around the house is made with your own hands in place of the old structure.
The work is not difficult if done using one of the technologies. Step-by-step instructions on how to properly make a blind area look roughly like this:
- dig a ditch around the foundation more than 40 cm wide (at least 45 cm deep);
- perform formwork along the edges of the ditch;
- lay sand at the bottom of the trench (15 cm layer), wet it and compact it;
- perform insulation from fatty clay 5 cm thick (with a mandatory slope away from the foundation);
- put waterproofing (film or rolled roofing felt);
- make reinforcement with rods in one belt (without disturbing the slope);
- Fill with concrete mortar to the required height.
Some owners prefer to make a blind area near the foundation with insulation. However, the outer layer is not always chosen from concrete. The structures are made from paving slabs, paving stones, crushed stone, asphalt and even soil with grass. Therefore, the last stage of work is very different due to the choice of materials for manufacturing the blind area. Before the very top layer you should put insulation. And only then proceed to finishing with tiles, cement or paving stones.
But for those people who will construct a concrete structure, it is worth knowing how to properly fill the blind area with mortar:
- Making the mortar is standard proportions 1x3, where there is only one part of cement and three of sand.
- Installation of formwork around the future structure.
- Pouring concrete evenly over the entire area in one day.
The drying time of the structure is usually from 14 to 16 days. To protect against negative influences You can cover the blind area with oilcloth on top on the second day. The formwork is removed after complete drying. And then the soil is backfilled.
Laying tile blind areas
Considered step by step instructions how to make a blind area around a house from tiles will not differ much from standard laying technology. A distinctive point that will be discussed is the laying of tile elements on the prepared blind area.
After the reinforcement is completed, instead of filling (in the standard version), it is worth filling the ditch with a second layer of sand to a height of 15 cm. The sand must be wetted and firmly compacted.
Don’t forget to maintain the slope, as later this property will help you quickly lay tile elements.
Well, the area for the tiles is ready. You can start working according to this scheme:
This is how you make a blind area with your own hands from slabs different sizes. At the end of the work, it is worth leaving the material to dry and set the concrete.
It is important to remember that you do not need to drive the tiles into the mortar. It is better to take a wooden plank, place it on the tiles and press gently, but with medium force. Then the tiles will be laid evenly and will not crack during work.
After the structure has dried, the concrete solution is made again. But now in proportions 1x3. Yes, and it should be rare so that it can be applied with a brush to the seams between the tiles.
Making a blind area from paving stones
When the choice falls on a paving stone structure, the difficulties in the work will be a little less. True, the paving stone blocks themselves are quite heavy. But they just need to be laid on sand or a sand-cement mixture with a mandatory offset from the foundation (expansion joints).
A diagram of how to properly make a blind area from such material looks like this:
- Laying film for repeated waterproofing on the reinforcing belt.
- Making a formwork panel along the edge of the structure.
- Adding a layer of sand (mixture) with mandatory compaction.
- Laying paving stones elements tightly one to the other.
- Tap each block of material with a rubber mallet to ensure uniform shrinkage into the sand.
- Sealing the seams with sand from above.
Of course, if you are not used to laying paving stones it will be difficult. But such operations can be done independently.
It is worth remembering that after laying the paving stones, you need to fill it with water and leave it for 2-3 days to shrink. The resulting solution will spread evenly and will hold the paving stone elements firmly.
Soft blind area around the building
For those owners who prefer a natural landscape, experts advise making soft blind areas where the top layer is soil. This layer can be seeded lawn grasses, decorate with flower beds. Here the principle of the device will differ from other rigid-type structures.
The work flow will look like this:
- digging a ditch around the foundation to a width of 40 cm to 50 cm, a depth of 45 cm;
- making a cushion of sand in a layer of 10-12 cm, observing the slope and obligatory compaction when wet;
- laying a layer of oily clay (5 cm) for the castle;
- creating waterproofing using film or rolled roofing felt;
- additional cushion of sand, crushed stone (layer 10 cm), compacted thoroughly;
- laying geotextiles with edge processing;
- backfilling soil to the top.
In this case, pouring concrete is not necessary. Therefore, the solution is not prepared. The only exceptions are those cases when it is intended to make a border along the edge of a blind area or flower bed.
In this case, the curb is installed on the first pillow. But before this, a concrete solution is applied under the installation site.
It is mandatory to leave a certain distance between the foundation wall and the blind areas, which is called expansion seam. Such a seam is sealed with any sealants, roofing felt or rolled bitumen. The main thing is that the blind area does not put pressure on the foundation walls, adding a constant load to it.
