Compaction using a hammer drill. How to make your own vibrator for concrete mix

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Cinder concrete is lighter than regular gravel concrete and is often used in low-rise construction. It is a mixture of filler - metallurgical and fuel slags - and a binding agent. Walls made of slag concrete are strong, durable, sound insulating and heat resistant.

This type of concrete may contain an alkaline component and then it is called slag-alkaline concrete. Alkaline activation of the slags used occurs by adding lime, caustic or soda ash, sodium metasilicate, liquid glass and other alkalis. Slag-alkaline concrete has very high strength, as well as high frost resistance and water resistance.

Of the fuel slags, the best for slag concrete are the combustion products of anthracite, and metallurgical slag produces more durable concrete, which extends the life of structures. Special attention requires cleanliness of the slag. It should be free of any impurities - remains of earth, coal, ash, clay and other debris.

As a binding agent in the preparation of this type of concrete, you can use a large number of different binding materials - cement, clay, gypsum, lime. Which one will be used depends on the calculated load on the walls. The strongest walls are made from cinder concrete and cement. The next strongest material is lime-based slag concrete.

The choice of binding agent is not the only parameter that should be considered. The size of the slag stone should also be taken into account. As a rule, two types are used - small (fraction less than 0.5–1.5 mm) and large (20–30 mm). The fine fraction produces heavy and durable concrete with a high thermal conductivity coefficient. The inclusion of large fractions, on the contrary, produces lighter but less durable slag concrete with high thermal insulation properties. It is undesirable to use fractions larger than 6 mm - this significantly reduces the strength of slag concrete.

How to obtain different fractions of slag? To do this, it is necessary to use two sieves - one with a cell diameter of 40x40 mm, and the diameter of the other should be 5x5 mm. At the first stage, the filler is sifted through a sieve with large cells. Then through a fine sieve. When preparing concrete for external walls, small and large granules are mixed in a ratio of 3:7. For interior walls the number of small fractions can be increased by one. To make the strength higher, 20% of the finest fraction should be replaced with sand, completely eliminating granules larger than 10-12 mm.

The sequence of steps for preparing slag concrete with your own hands is the same as when making ordinary concrete with gravel filler.

A few hours before preparing the slag concrete mixture It is advisable to moisten the slag. This further increases the strength of the product. Cement tends to clog all the roughness and irregularities on the surface of the slag, thereby weakening the binder, and this can ultimately lead to a weakening of the strength of the future product.
Mix slag granules according to the technology indicated above.
It is better to replace too fine, dusty slag that passes through a fine sieve with ordinary sand.
After this, a binder is added. The cost of slag concrete can be reduced if two types of binders are used. For example, combine cement with clay or lime in a 3:1 ratio.
The addition of lime gives the mixture good plasticity and allows it to be mixed properly - until a uniform color is obtained. It must be borne in mind that the process of mixing the slag concrete mass plays a big role in its quality and affects the load-bearing capacity of the product. When making slag concrete yourself at home, mix the mass with a rake.

Typically, medium-grade slag concrete includes from 4 to 5 parts of a mixture of two types of slag and two parts each of sand and a binding agent.
The resulting slag concrete mass should be thoroughly mixed.
Add water and mix thoroughly again. The result should be a homogeneous mass.
After this, the cinder concrete is ready for filling into the formwork. Work out ready mixture it is necessary within 1 hour, but no later than 1.5 hours after kneading.

The use of slag concrete in the construction of walls

The construction of walls made of slag concrete can be implemented in two ways: to erect monolithic infill walls or to make slag concrete blocks, from which the wall will be later installed. The first approach is more labor-intensive, but requires less time. With the second approach, there is no need for formwork work, due to which it requires less labor, but is somewhat longer in time.

1 option– infill walls. They can be made either monolithic or hollow. The use of void formation technology reduces the load on the foundation and reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls.

To make hollow walls, special liners made of wood, hardboard or metal are installed in the space intended for concreting. Before pouring concrete, the liners are lubricated with machine oil, grease, or wrapped in parchment, roofing felt or roofing felt. You can also take thick cardboard and make cone-shaped pipes from it, which you can then use to form voids. In this case, there is no need for subsequent excavation.

When the concrete dries and settles, the resulting voids should be filled with dry slag, sand, foam granules or other insulating material.
A cinder concrete wall turns out to be quite heavy and shrinks well, so it must be reinforced with an iron rod 7–10 mm in diameter - at least 3 rods for the width of the wall and 4–5 for the height.

In those places where the project will have to install window and door openings, during the pouring process it is necessary to invest wooden blocks, to which windows and doors will be attached in the future.

The slag concrete mixture should be laid in layers, every 15 to a maximum of 20 cm. When the layer is laid, it must be carefully pinned using a metal rod. This is especially important where the concrete comes into contact with the formwork or inlay. In order to ensure proper settlement, the cinder concrete layer is compacted with a special tamper. After this, the next layer is laid. The entire wall is filled in the same way.

When the slag concrete work is completed and the walls have “set”, the concrete, if it was prepared on the basis of cement as binder material, should be watered. This will ensure the strength and durability of the future structure. For slag concrete based on other binders, filling with water, on the contrary, is undesirable. To avoid drying out, they only need light moisture.

Fig.1. Formwork for walls made of cinder concrete (can also be used for ordinary concrete)

Elements: 1–base; 2–internal covering (roofing felt or other material); 3– wedges; 4– spacer ; 5 – racks and 6– side stitches.

Option 2- cinder blocks. To make them, you will need special molds. The dimensions of the block may vary, and the materials used to create liners and shapes can be the same as for pressed walls.

During the molding and pouring process, the mixture must be thoroughly compacted. After about 3-4 hours, when initial setting occurs, the blocks can be released from the mold and laid to dry. Drying should be done in a well-ventilated place that does not allow direct sunlight, for example, in a utility room, or at least in the shade of a tree. During the first week, while the cinder blocks are drying, if the weather is dry, they should be moistened. When the cinder blocks have hardened sufficiently, they can be stacked in layers up to 150 cm. After complete drying, the blocks are ready for use. As for the technology for laying cinder concrete blocks, it is the same as laying other types of concrete blocks. And the solution is suitable from any binders - lime, cement-lime, clay or cement-clay.

Cinder blocks have the following classification:

corpulent - the most durable, they are used in construction load-bearing structures buildings, for columns, ground floors and foundation;
hollow - their properties depend on the type and number of voids. They come with rectangular, oval, and round internal chambers. Blocks with oval and round voids are considered the most durable, and those with rectangular ones are more convenient for installation, since they can break evenly without the help of special tools.

Hollow cinder blocks are used for the construction of partitions and walls. Blocks with a hollowness of 40% are the least durable, but the most thermally conductive. Used for insulation along with more durable materials, as well as in the construction of buildings with metal carcass. 30% hollowness gives a good combination of thermal conductivity and strength - such blocks are the most popular in construction.

When storing cinder blocks with through voids in winter, they should be laid with the voids facing down. This reduces the likelihood of their damage.

According to their intended purpose, cinder blocks have the following classification:

hollow wall block– can be either solid or hollow. Standard dimensions 390x190x188 mm;
the wall semi-block is hollow. Available in two sizes: 390×120×188 mm and 390×90×188 mm;
decorative wall half-blocks and blocks. Using special polyurethane molds, you can obtain a block with a textured surface “like stone”. In addition, colored cinder blocks have appeared, the use of which helps to significantly reduce construction costs.

Advantages of cinder concrete and cinder blocks

The benefits of this building material relate:

relatively low price;
light weight of slag concrete - allows you to reduce the design load on the foundation and load-bearing elements;
large size of blocks - increases the speed of construction, reduces costs, reduces construction time, and also allows for convenient transportation of blocks;
simple masonry technology - you can do it yourself;
a fairly wide choice of filler composition for the mixture - makes it possible to choose your own material suitable for the characteristics;
long service life - according to standards, the operating time is about 100 years;
savings on plaster or cladding when using decorative cinder blocks;
high sound insulation properties.

Disadvantages of cinder blocks

Like any building material, cinder concrete also has its disadvantages:

reluctant to keep warm;
requires quite a lot of time to harden;
full compliance with the characteristics required for a given brand occurs only after a year - 4 months after production, the finished block has only 50% of the strength of its intended potential;
Compared to heavy types of concrete, slag concrete has a higher hygroscopicity and therefore requires careful care within a few days after production.

On the other hand, if proper production and maintenance are followed, it becomes a durable building material with low cost.

Cinder block strength grades

The strength grade of slag concrete blocks along with density are the main characteristics of the building material. To get high bearing capacity it is better to use grades M25 or M35, M10 should be used only as insulation, and grades M50 and higher are already suitable for load-bearing walls.

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The popularity of cinder block is due to its practicality, low cost and ease of laying. From of this material You can build houses, outbuildings, bathhouses, garages and other structures yourself. And it is not at all necessary to purchase ready-made blocks, because making cinder blocks with your own hands at home is not particularly difficult. It is enough to study the features of the building material and the sequence of actions in the masonry process. From this article you will learn how to make high-quality cinder blocks at home, what requirements should be followed, and what mistakes should be avoided.

What is a cinder block

Let's look at what a cinder block is made of. This is a regular parallelepiped 39 cm long, 18.8 cm high and 19 cm wide. The more correct its shape, the easier the laying process will be. Blocks can be solid or hollow. Solid products are used for the construction of load-bearing walls and interior partitions. In contrast, hollow blocks, having a void ratio of about 30%, are more economical. The voids make cinder blocks warmer and increase their sound insulation properties. In addition to the construction of walls, such products are used to insulate concrete frames of buildings.

The production of hollow cinder blocks requires the presence of several holes. The number of holes can be 2 or 3. The shape of the holes can also be very different: round, rectangular or square.

We manufacture DIY cinder block mold

The first step is to purchase or make your own molds for cinder blocks. It is in them that cinder blocks will be made with your own hands. You can make one form if there is a small construction project. If you want to speed up the process of making cinder blocks at home, you can make a blank designed for the simultaneous production of 3-6 blocks. Design drawings are prepared in advance.

Let's look at how to make a mold with your own hands, the dimensions of which are 400x200x200 mm. To do this, you will need boards or sheets of metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The structure itself consists of a bottom to which the walls are attached. The height of the walls corresponds to the expected height of the parallelepiped.

To form voids, metal pipes with a diameter of about 6–9 cm are taken. They must first be processed with a grinder so that they form cones. This is necessary to ensure ease of removing them from hardened cinder concrete or removing the mold from a block that has not yet hardened. The pipes are connected by a metal jumper and fixed to the bottom or side walls of the mold.

The technology for producing cinder blocks allows the use of wooden blanks in the shape of cones. If you go completely the simple way, then to make cinder blocks, bottles filled with water are used, which are sunk in the solution. However, in this case, after pouring it is necessary to wait until the solution hardens in the mold.

The form can be detachable. To do this, the walls are secured so that they can be easily removed. In this case, the finished cinder block can be easily released from the mold. Grooves are cut into the long walls of the mold, into which short transverse walls are inserted.

During the manufacturing process of the mold, you will need a lid, which will ensure leveling of the surface of the solution, and will also serve as a kind of press. Holes must be made in the lid for the conical components if they are not provided for fastening to the lid. If the conical protrusions are rigidly fixed to the lid, then the lid also acts as a press. If readers are interested in how to make cinder blocks solid, then to do this it is enough to remove the conical cylinders from the structure and make the lid monolithic.

Manufacturing of vibration machine

To provide best quality of the resulting products is used special equipment for the production of cinder blocks at home. This is the so-called vibrating machine. It allows you to create vibration after pouring the solution into the mold, which helps to compact the solution and increase the strength of the product. Let's look at how to make a homemade vibrating machine yourself. Its scheme is quite simple.

Vibrating machine for the production of one block

By its design, the vibrating machine consists of the following elements:

A metal box (shape) designed for the simultaneous production of 1–3 cinder blocks with your own hands. The box is made of metal sheets. Its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of future products.
Cylinders for forming voids. Pieces are used for this purpose metal pipes, which are processed with a grinding wheel to form a taper. The cylinders are connected to each other by a metal bridge along the long side of the mold and attached to the side walls. The distance from the bottom of the cylinders to the bottom should not be less than 3 cm.
A slotted lid that fits over the cylinders.
Handles on the sides for removing the mold from the blocks.
Electric motor with a power of 0.5–0.8 kW. It is bolted to one of the walls of the mold.

Eyelets are welded on the back side of the mold for attaching the cylinders. If it is necessary to make solid blocks, the cylinders can be easily removed from the eyes. The finished equipment for making cinder blocks is cleaned and painted.

With the help of such a machine, a cinder block at home is very durable and has the correct geometry.

After making the cinder block molds, you can begin the actual production process.

Proportions of solution for making cinder blocks

There is a specific recipe for the production of cinder blocks:

The main filler is 7 parts. Slag filling is usually used, but it can be replaced with crushed ceramic bricks, gypsum, sawdust, gravel and other similar components.
Cement - 1.5 parts. You should take cement of a grade no lower than M400.
Sifted sand - 2 parts.
Water until thick. To determine the optimal thickness of the solution, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand and then throw a handful on the ground. At normal density, the solution will disintegrate, and when compressed again, a single mass will form again.

The cinder block production technology provides for the additional introduction of a plasticizer intended for concrete into the solution. It helps to increase product strength, water resistance and frost resistance. The plasticizer is taken in the amount of 5 g per 1 block.

Technology for self-production of cinder blocks

Before making cinder blocks, you should study the recommendations experienced craftsmen, telling about the most popular mistakes made by beginners.

Scheme for the production of one block with manual ramming

The production of cinder blocks at home consists of several stages:

1. Prepared concrete mortar. To do this, it is better to use a concrete mixer.

2. Concrete mixture is poured into the prepared form. It is applied with a slide, which settles during the compaction process. When making in a conventional form, you can use the rule by which the mixture is smoothed flush with the walls.

3. The mold is closed with a lid.

4. If a vibrating machine is used, it is turned on for a few seconds, during which the mixture is compacted. If you use a regular mold, you can tap the sides with a hammer. This is necessary so that air bubbles come out of the concrete and all voids are compacted.

5. The compacted mass can be immediately removed from the mold, but it is recommended to keep it inside the mold for 24 hours.

Many people are interested in the question: how long does it take for the finished product to dry? Within a day, the blocks can be transferred to a permanent storage location. If a plasticizer was used during their manufacture, the solution hardens within 7–8 hours. During storage of the material, it is not allowed to be on straight sun rays. It is best to store the blocks in a warehouse at a constant temperature and high humidity. After a month, you can build any structures from the blocks.

As you can see, making a cinder block with your own hands is quite simple. And its cost is such that it allows you to save twice on materials.

We figured out how to make a cinder block with your own hands. If you need to build a small outbuilding on your site, then there is no need to buy finished cinder block. It's easier to make it yourself by buying cement and a slag machine. Moreover, you can make the equipment for this yourself.

The profitability of a homemade cinder block is beyond doubt, but are there really reliable ways to ensure stable high quality at sufficiently high production volumes? Let's try to answer this question and consider the basic methods for making cinder blocks at home with your own hands.

Choosing a manufacturing method

Actually, there are not as many ways to make cinder blocks as there are devices for this. In all cases, cinder concrete must be mixed in a concrete mixer, and in no case by hand. At this stage, the sequence of adding ingredients, their proportions, duration and other mixing features play a role.

But for molding cinder blocks, there are a large number of various dies, presses and machines. In general, all production methods can be divided into:

manual, when the mass is formed by compaction in single molds;
partially mechanized, where manual lever presses are used;
fully automated, based on vibration shrinkage or hydraulic pressing.

Obviously, mechanization makes it possible to increase the accuracy of production parameters, therefore lever pressing and vibration shrinkage methods are most preferable. Small hand tools will be relevant if you only need to produce a couple of hundred stones.

After molding and setting the mass, the cinder block must be removed from the mold. These actions should also be mechanized; most defects appear precisely at the planting stage. The simplest and most reliable devices for this are a lifting mold block and a damper.

Mechanisms can also be used for drying and storage. At a minimum, when moving raw material to the main drying site, it is preferable to use carts and manual forklifts.

Equipment: what to buy and what to make yourself

The desire to save money is quite reasonable, but there is equipment that is very difficult to assemble yourself and vice versa: you simply cannot buy some equipment.

The production cycle, we analyze it in stages

To prepare cinder concrete, you first need to mix bulk materials, then add water in small portions. You need to knead until the mixture acquires sufficient plasticity and stops crumbling if you squeeze it with your hands. It is better to add water using a spray bottle, gradually wetting the mixture until it becomes semi-dry.

The prepared mixture can be poured directly onto a cement floor or onto a hard sheet substrate near the machine. From there we scoop it up with a shovel and carefully fill out the form. Periodically, vibration shrinkage is used to compact the concrete and squeeze out large air bubbles. When the mold is filled to the brim with the mixture, it needs to be compacted.

In some machines, for this purpose, a response matrix is used with slight bending, with which the cinder block is compacted in vibration mode. In other cases, the same frame is connected to a system of levers and simply compresses the mass inside the mold. Upon completion of molding, you need to wait 5-10 seconds and remove the mold from the product, leaving it on the floor to pre-dry. If the molds are equipped with dampers, it is better to immediately lift the block and place the product on the pallet.

The cinder block takes from several hours to several days to dry. It all depends on the composition of the mixture and technical equipment sites. Subsequently, the products are carefully transported to the storage location, where they are stored.

What composition of slag concrete is optimal?

It is better to use granite screenings as the main filler. Its structure is small scales; this material is well bonded in the mass and gives excellent strength. A lighter, but not as hard cinder block is made from crushed slag from energy and metallurgy enterprises. The latter type is characterized by better thermal insulation properties.

Cement - only Portland grade not lower than 400. More precisely, cement grade 300 can also be used, but with an increase in its content by 15-25%.

Sand is used in cinder block to increase density, which is not always required. The material must be of quarry origin and must be washed. In total, sand in the total mass is up to 20%. The filler is mixed with cement 400 in a ratio of 8:1 or 9:1.

What else may be included:

sawdust of all types;
foam chips;
brick, concrete battle;
plasticizers and modifiers.

The use of the latter will ensure early setting of the mixture and relatively free setting of the products. It is also recommended to use additives to increase frost resistance. It will be useful to familiarize yourself with the standards set out in GOST 6133 as amended in 1999 - here are not only the requirements for raw materials, but also the rules for organizing production, some technical specifications and quality control methods.

Cinder block storage

The cinder block gains full hardness a few weeks after production. All this time it is exposed to natural street drying under a canopy. If there is no space for storing cinder blocks in one layer, it is permissible to stack pallets with one row of cinder blocks on top of each other. During the main drying period, it is important to ensure good ventilation of the stack and free removal of moisture.

After drying for two weeks, the cinder block can be stored without pallets, but be sure to at least cover it so that rainwater did not wash out the fastening agents. If you need a cinder block for your own construction, prepare it in advance: one winter in outdoor conditions and most of the defects will manifest themselves.

Cinder block is an inexpensive and available materials, it is used in the construction of both garages and residential buildings. The idea of making a cinder block with your own hands can be brought to life. How exactly to do this is useful for many developers to know.

General information and requirements for building materials

Cinder block is a building material that is manufactured in a factory using vibrocompression. Concrete is usually used as the main material. Working with this material is very fast, and a structure made from it will be quite warm.

Should I start making blocks myself? If you plan to make several cinder blocks to build a garage or bathhouse, then making cinder blocks with your own hands will be completely justified and will save a significant amount. But to build a house you will need much more building materials, so the purchase costs necessary materials will be significantly higher. In this case, buying cinder blocks will not only be more reasonable, but also easier.

During manufacturing, it is important to know the requirements for finished building materials:

The size of cinder blocks may vary depending on specific requirements. The standard size is 39x19x18 cm. There are also so-called cinder blocks for partitions, or half-blocks, their dimensions are smaller: 39x12x18.8 cm. The standard weight of a cinder block, depending on the type of voids, can be 17-25 kg. Most often, there are 3 holes in each block.
For high quality workmanship It is important to comply with the requirements regarding the composition of the cinder block.
It is preferable to use coarse sand.
The quality of the cement must be high enough (M400 or higher).
It is better to take blast furnace slag. For the production of blocks, slag is usually used - a product of coal processing. But due to active gasification of slag, less and less slag is produced, so now it is being replaced with more expensive zitocrete.
Use special equipment for vibration compaction.

Geometry is one of the most important requirements in manufacturing. If a cinder block, made with your own hands at home, has uneven surfaces, then the cost of building walls will be more significant.

To obtain an even cinder block, the mold is filled not only completely, but even heaped, so that the concrete “settles” after compaction.

What can you make a cinder block from?

What cinder blocks are made of is clear from the very name of the building material. One of the components of the cinder block solution is slag, which is formed as a result of coal processing.

Additionally, the blocks may include other materials: sawdust, crushed or old brick, metallurgical waste or products of coal combustion in boiler houses. All these materials will not interfere with the production of cinder blocks, as they will give them good thermal insulation properties.

The mixture also includes coarse sand, water and cement. To increase density, you can add concrete strengthening mixtures.

The standard composition of the mixture for blocks includes sand (2 parts), cement (1.5 parts), gravel (2 parts), slag (7 parts), 1.5-3 parts water. But in fact, not all craftsmen adhere to the standard recipe, preferring to make the composition depending on the available slag and the parameters of the future structure.

To ensure plasticity, when making cinder blocks at home, you can add a plasticizer to the composition (5 g per block). This component allows you to improve the strength of the block, its frost resistance and water resistance, and prevent the appearance of cracks. A plasticizer is added during vibration casting.

You should be very careful when adding water to the mixture: it is important that the blocks do not spread when removed. Checking the amount of water is very simple: if the composition crumbles when it falls to the ground, but sticks together well in your fist, then the water content is normal.

Manufacturing of mold and vibrating machine

Before making a cinder block, you need to make two main elements - a special mold and a vibrating table. The better the shape is made, the higher quality the building material will be. Before manufacturing a special mold and a vibrating table, drawings of these devices should be prepared. The installation of a vibrating table for the production of cinder blocks is carried out on a hard and level surface, which provides high degree sustainability. There should be a sufficient number of molds for the cinder block (about 10) so that the work goes quickly. It is important that they are approximately the same size.

Making a mold for a cinder block is easy. The forms are formwork into which concrete is poured. Most often molds are made from wood, although other materials are suitable. To make holes, you can use ordinary glass bottles: you will need 3 of them per block.

To make enough cinder blocks to build a bathhouse, it will be enough wooden forms. For larger production, it is necessary to master the technology of manufacturing cinder block machines. To make a homemade machine, you will need the following materials and equipment:

grinder, welder;
motor with a power of 0.5-0.7 kW;
iron sheet 3 mm thick;
fittings (12 mm).

The block processing time will be up to 15 seconds. Then the vibrating platform can be removed and storage can begin. On average per homemade machines for a cinder block, you can make about 50 blocks in 1 hour.

To compact, and therefore strengthen the structure of concrete, it is necessary to use special tool– a vibrator. With its help, it is easy to expel excess air from the thickness of the still fresh solution, due to which the concrete is porous and brittle. You can buy or make a vibrator yourself.

1. Superficial.

A not very thick layer of concrete to a depth of 20-30 cm is efficiently compacted with a simple platform vibrator. It transmits vibrations deeper through the impact on the surface of the screed. It is suitable for use on large pouring areas where manual leveling and compaction is impossible. The volume of the mixture at the point of impact will depend on the width of the area and the power of the equipment.

2. Deep.

The universal technology of compaction from the inside allows you to strengthen structures of any size, if you can find an internal vibrator with a tip of the required length. It is he who, when immersed in a liquid solution, creates the necessary vibrations around himself. As a result, large and small fractions of the mixture (crushed stone and sand) are placed in the formwork most densely, leaving practically no room for air.

The use of the deep method requires some caution - the tip of the tool should not approach the reinforcing bars by more than a third of its diameter. Failure to comply with this requirement will result in steel reinforcement Due to vibration, it will lose contact with the concrete and become ineffective.

3. External.

Here, the formwork itself, into which concrete is poured, acts as the surface of the vibrator - it is to it that vibrations from a special mechanism are transmitted, and it independently “shakes” all the solution inside. In this case, compaction occurs most completely and throughout the entire volume of the monolith, but the formwork itself can collapse from vibration if the appropriate material is not selected for it. The use of this technology must be envisaged even before the start of concrete work.

Manufacturing of vibration installation

The easiest way to buy a vibrator for laying concrete. But if you don't practice concrete works constantly, then there is no point in spending money for a one-time use of an expensive tool. Price complete set vibration equipment with all attachments will be at least 4 thousand rubles.

For your needs and one-time jobs, it’s easier to make it yourself. Moreover, it is not necessary to make the entire device, but only an attachment for an existing drill, hammer drill, grinder or just a motor.

The main requirement is that the engine must have a certain speed for different compositions:

at least 3500 rpm for coarse-grained mortar;
up to 9000 rpm for medium-grain;
from 10 to 20 thousand, if you need a vibration installation for fine concrete.

The characteristics of the equipment used as a basis are also important. homemade instrument. The higher the power, the larger volume of compacted concrete can be obtained at a time.

There is an electric drill in almost every home where the owner knows how to do something with his own hands. As a last resort, it’s worth buying - such a tool will come in handy more than once for other work around the house. The required drill power is about 1 kW.

To use it to make a homemade vibrator for concrete, you will need a stainless steel pipe with a diameter of about 45 mm and a length of 500 mm, as well as other hardware products that are commercially available:

short, like a pipe, metal fittings 14-15 mm in diameter;
a square metal rod of the same length or slightly shorter;
pair of bearings;
sleeve.

Instructions for making a vibrating attachment and shaft:

Both rods are welded to each other, which allows their common center of gravity to be shifted and the result is an unbalancer. Its rotation will create a vibration effect. In this case, both ends of the round reinforcement must be left free for further installation.
Through a pair of bearings, the welded structure is installed inside the pipe so that it can move freely to transmit vibrations to the submersible vibrator. If the size of the round rod does not allow it to be installed in the inner cylinders of the bearings, it can be ground along the edges with a file or grinder.
The nose part of the unbalanced fittings must be cut off, leaving a section of 5-10 mm extending beyond the edge of the pipe. Place a bushing on one end of the axle.
At the end of the round rod, make a hole for fastening to the shaft and weld a flexible steel cable into it.
Cover the rotating part of the vibrating nozzle with a sleeve strung on a cable so that concrete does not get inside the pipe during operation.
Pass the flexible rod through the rubber hose and secure the end of the resulting shaft with a clamp.
Weld an adapter on the free part of the steel cable and use it to connect the shaft to the drill.

It is undesirable to abandon the manufacture of a flexible shaft, although the attachment assembled according to the described scheme can also be attached directly to the drill. But the recoil will be too great, and it will quickly break the instrument. This type of deep vibrator is good for compacting concrete of normal density.

2. Hammer.

The most suitable unit, since it can transmit both rotational and translational motion to the nozzle at the same time. A vibrator made from a hammer drill is convenient to use for vertical structures. To work, you only need a steel washer, with which the reinforcing rod-nozzle is attached to the tool. Its length will depend on the depth concrete pouring so that the entire volume of the solution is subjected to vibration shrinkage.

The hammer drill itself must have a power of at least 1.5 kW. It will need to be switched to shock mode and the bayonet immersed in concrete to the very bottom, gradually moving it according to the pattern in the thickness of the cement-sand mixture. If the length of the vibrating bayonet is not enough to compact the entire volume, the filling will need to be done layer by layer, and the vibrator will need to be immersed as deeply as possible at each stage. A bayonet deep vibrator is very good for thickly mixed solutions.

You can assemble a vibrator for concrete not from scratch, but buy a special attachment (vibrating head) with a mounted shaft. It will cost about 2 thousand, but it is easy to install it on your own on an existing unit and get to work right away. To do this, you need to attach the hexagonal output of the internal flexible shaft to the axis of the angle grinder or drill using a suitable adapter. A metal ring is attached to the end of the rubber hose; it should also be connected to the tool. To do this, drill 3-4 through holes for short screws, which will secure the shell to the head of the same drill.

Manufacturing of a platform vibrator

For compacting not too powerful monolithic foundation slab or concrete screed It will be enough to use an ordinary concrete vibrator. Its assembly scheme is much simpler, so you can make it yourself quickly and, most importantly, cheaply. You won’t need a grinder, a hammer drill, or any other tool. All you need is a small rotary engine and a flat tray that transmits vibration.

Assembly instructions:

Weld an unbalancing weight to the motor axis, changing its symmetry.
Mount the motor on a level platform of the vibrator. It could be wooden slats or iron flat tray.
Attach handles to the platform to move the unit along the surface.
Connect the motor to a power source, and your do-it-yourself concrete vibrator is ready.