Repair is a delicate matter, requiring both physical and material costs. But this does not apply to utility rooms and utility rooms (garages), where you can fit within a small budget and carry out all the work in a short period of time, for example, painting concrete walls and floor.
At first glance, the work is quite simple and does not require any construction skills from you, but it would still be useful to study all the features of this process.
Cracks and potholes cannot be hidden even with three layers of paint.
Concrete is a universal surface
Concrete is the one building material, which is almost always the basis of the structure, requiring further finishing work.
Depending on what and where the concrete has to be used, it is covered with:
- Ceramic or porcelain tiles.
- Granite.
- Polymers.
- Panel finishing (plastic or wood).
- Enamels and paints.
Interesting! Modern finishers often use toppings. This method of finishing concrete involves grinding concrete that has not yet completely hardened while simultaneously applying and rubbing in special additives. This technique is practiced when installing industrial floors.
But today we will talk about why and with what to paint concrete, so that repairs do not create a gap in the budget, and the work is done with high quality and for long-term use of the surface.
Often, “bare” concrete is painted in production and industrial premises
Why paint concrete
By painting concrete, we expect to perform several tasks that increase the comfort of a person’s stay in a room with painted walls:
- Dust the concrete surface.
- Protect from:
- Mechanical damage.
- Wear.
- Exposure to chemicals.
- Aggressive impact atmospheric precipitation and temperature changes when concrete has to work in the open air.
- Maximize service life.
- Make the concrete surface more aesthetically pleasing.
- Improve its performance characteristics.
Important! Many of the above factors depend on the quality of the applied finishing material, so when buying cheap paint, be sure that it will not last long.
How to paint concrete
When choosing paint for concrete, first of all you should consider:
- In what conditions will concrete have to work (street walls, residential premises, industrial surfaces).
- What do you expect from the appearance of a concrete product or structure.
- The price for the material that you are willing to pay to achieve the goal.
Let's look at simple example, what is common in the questions of what to paint a concrete monument and what to paint a concrete blind area. Both surfaces will be exposed to the adverse effects of the atmosphere.
This means the paint should be:
- Frost-resistant and resistant to temperature changes.
- Water repellent.
- Contain antibacterial additives.
That's all, good luck with the repair! In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
Blind area around residential buildings
, as a rule, is made of concrete or sand-cement mortars. At the same time, there is a fairly widespread misconception among private developers that the destruction of a concrete blind area occurs only due to the fault of any mechanical loads. In fact main reason is carbon dioxide corrosion of concrete - the formation of dusty microcalcite from free lime and carbon dioxide air. There are other types of corrosion, for example, sulfate, as well as chloride and others. As a result of corrosion processes, not only dust is formed, but also the strength and resistance to abrasion of the outer layer of concrete is significantly reduced. It should be noted that simply increasing the grade strength of concrete does not lead to durable concrete structures.
IN regulatory document SNiP 2.03.11-85 “Protection building structures from corrosion" indicates that when designing concrete structures, protection of concrete and reinforced concrete structures from corrosion. Therefore, owners of private property often face the need to protect concrete surfaces, including blind areas, from the effects of precipitation. For this purpose, along with other types of protective measures, paint coatings. However, it should be taken into account that when periodically moistened with water or precipitation, it is necessary to hydrophobize concrete surfaces with special compounds as a primer layer for paint and varnish coatings (clause 2.31, SNiP 2.03.11-85).
Used to protect concrete various types polymer coatings: from traditional pentaphthalic and vinyl chloride paints and enamels to high-quality epoxy and polyurethane protective and decorative compositions. Polymer coatings are not only characterized by a long service life, but also by high resistance to chemically active substances.
To create protective coating you can use POLAC EP-52PA enamel, which is a modified epoxy composition. This enamel has an adhesion-inhibiting effect, which significantly increases protective properties and increases the durability of the coating.
This coating has good moisture resistance, weather resistance, resistance to UV radiation, and chemical resistance. High and stable adhesion of the coating to concrete and other materials is maintained for a long period of time - tens of years. In addition, a color scheme for the blind area is possible.
The most technologically advanced and versatile for protecting concrete surfaces are also impregnations based on polyurethane resins. These substances have high penetrating ability, perfectly bind concrete, quickly harden (polymerize), are chemically resistant, do not cause corrosion of the concrete base, and have very high impact strength and elasticity.
On Russian market Polyurethane compositions from such Western companies as TIKKURILA, NOVILUX and others are quite well represented. It should be noted that the range of inexpensive and quality materials very narrow. These include the products of the domestic manufacturer of polymer coatings - the TEOKHIM company, whose products include moisture-curing compositions of the ELAKOR-PU type.
The protective composition "ELAKOR-PU" based on polyurethane is designed to prevent dust and destruction of concrete bases. The standard applied coating penetrates deep into the concrete by 3-5 mm, forming on the surface protective film thickness 150-200 microns. This impregnation strengthens and hardens the concrete surface, creates reliable waterproofing protection, blocks pores and microdefects in the concrete structure, forming super-strong, impenetrable crystals in it. As a result, the top protective layer is integral with the concrete base, which completely eliminates the possibility of its peeling.
"ELAKOR" strengthens concrete even of grades M100 and less. After treatment, the concrete surface does not slip and becomes more resistant to impact loads and wear. The operating temperature of the coating is from -60 to +100ºС, and the service life is 10-15 years.
In addition, it is possible color scheme blind areas, anti-slip devices, etc. However, for the sake of fairness, it should be noted that over time, under the influence of ultraviolet light, the color seems to turn brown.
In addition, polymer paints such as polyurethane enamel can be used for protective and decorative finishing of concrete surfaces. acrylic paint or epoxy primer-enamel. All these polymer coatings have their own advantages, including the possibility of application without prior priming, for example, epoxy primer-enamel "AQUAPOLIMERDEKOR", use when negative temperatures– perchlorovinyl enamel “BETIL”, can be applied to freshly laid concrete – water paint"AQUABETOL", weather resistance - acrylic paint "BETYLAT", increased chemical, - wear resistance - polyurethane enamel "POLYMERDEKOR". In addition, the advantages of all polymer paints are impeccable quality, affordable cost and ease of application.
So polymer paint"BETYLAT" forms a durable, vapor-permeable coating that is resistant to atmospheric conditions. It can be used on concrete surfaces with light pedestrian traffic. Available in two types: on acrylic and organosilicon bases.
Before painting, the surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt and dried. Then, before applying the paint, to improve adhesion and harden the surface, it is recommended to treat it with “BETYLATE-PRIMER” and “BETYLATE-IMPREGMENTATION”.
In order for the foundation of the house to be durable and strong, it is necessary to provide reliable protection foundation from water. A blind area is often used for this. Without it, moisture will contribute to the foundation. In addition to its functional purpose, it plays a decorative role, making appearance home completed.
Why do blind area defects occur?
To make a strip around the perimeter of the building, materials such as concrete, cement, paving stones, natural and artificial stone are used. The first option is the most common. Asphalt and some other materials are rarely used. But sooner or later any blind area begins to collapse.
Defects appear in the form of deep or superficial cracks, displacement and subsidence of individual fragments, crumbling of individual edges or areas. It is also possible for the tiles to peel off from the base of the object. Before strengthening this strip, it is necessary to identify the reasons why it is subject to destruction:
- Incorrect installation technology. These include the lack of a waterproofing layer, lack of compaction and unevenness of the backfill, and non-compliance with standards for width and depth. Perhaps the work was carried out in the hot season, before rains or early frosts - all these factors affect the uncured solution. There is also a possibility that the correct recipe was not followed concrete composition, for example, a lot or little binder was added: in the first case, the surface will crack, and in the second, it will crumble.
- Lack of damping layer. Expansion joints are located between the slab and the base, becoming a shock absorber and contributing to the correct distribution of the resulting vibrations. Their absence will increase the risk of defects appearing on the blind area.
- Making a strip around the perimeter of the building without tilting towards the outside. Rain moisture stagnates on flat surfaces, which negatively affects artificial stones And cement coatings. A slight slope away from the object will allow water to drain naturally. Without it, small cracks will form, which over time will turn into deeper tears.
- No reinforcement in . This procedure is not mandatory according to current standards, but it gives the water drainage strip the necessary strength.
How to restore the blind area?
Cracking, partial collapse and peeling of the drainage strip around the house indicate that it is time to make repairs. To prevent further deformation of the coating and moisture penetration into the foundation of the house, repair all defects immediately. In case of severe damage and deep subsidence of fragments, it is advisable to completely replace the destroyed coating. The choice of method depends on the type of material:
- If the blind area is made of tiles, then it is easier to simply replace its defective parts with new ones. Before this, you need to partially fill the recesses with sand.
- Restoring an asphalt strip involves dismantling the deformed section. The resulting pit must be cleaned, and its edges and bottom are treated with liquid resin. Only after this is new asphalt laid, which is carefully compacted with a roller.
- Defects in a strip made from a mixture of glue and concrete can be eliminated using moisture-resistant polyurethane foam and special polymer materials. Such mixtures penetrate into all cracks. They harden quite quickly. Cement is not suitable for this task, because... it will only cover the top of the crack, not the entire cavity. Large defective areas are best replaced completely.
- Restoring protective tape from cobblestones involves replacing damaged fragments. For this purpose you need a hammer and a chisel. Having removed the deformed cobblestones with their help, you will need to pour a mixture of crushed crushed stone and sand onto the empty spaces to level the layer. After this, you need to compact it, fill everything with mortar and cement and place a suitable fragment on top. Small cracks can be sealed with concrete mixture.
One of the most problematic areas of drainage tape is where it connects to the base of the property. Most of the problems appear due to the peeling of the coating from the foundation of the house. For minor peeling, use waterproofing fillers or sealant. During repairs, experts recommend performing the following work:
- Clean any defects that have appeared (cracks, crevices) from various kinds garbage, as well as earth and sand. Small cracks can be combined into one zone and expanded.
- Fill all recesses with concrete mixture. To ensure longevity, add during pouring reinforcing mesh made of steel.
- After the solution has hardened (this will take several days), treat the surface with a primer for exterior use.
- For prevention, you can dig holes about 20-30 cm deep. Fill them with solution.
- Fill gaps and cracks with the same material that was used to install the tape around the house.
It is recommended to carry out work to restore the blind area early spring or late autumn. At these times of the year, defects open up better, and the concrete mixture is in a “calm state”, because it will expand if the air temperature gets very warm.
Ironing
This procedure will help to avoid the appearance of large cracks and gaps that appear on the drainage tape during its operation. Ironing allows you to strengthen the surface of the strip, increasing its level of hardness and strength. Also this procedure improves the waterproofing qualities of the blind area.
Despite the name of this technology, iron has nothing to do with it. In most cases, cement is used and special remedy: SPEKTRIN, PENTRA, Lithurin, etc. It may include components such as liquid glass, granite and quartz filler, corundum, sodium aluminate, etc. The procedure itself is:
- wet;
- dry;
- polymer.
Dry ironing
This type of procedure is performed as quickly as possible after the blind area has been poured - approximately 1-2 hours. After some time, the tape will still be wet, which is good for the procedure. Detailed instructions:
- Take dry cement and sprinkle it on the wet area. This must be done so that the layer has a thickness of 2 mm.
- Place the cement evenly using any suitable sieve. Pour the material into it and lightly tap the device.
- The resulting layer of cement must be leveled. Use a polyurethane hand float for this purpose. It takes a little time to harden the surface.
- Due to porosity and moisture concrete mixture The water-repellent tape will become stronger and more durable. This will ensure proper adhesion to the dry cement.
- You can walk on the coating, which has been reinforced with iron, after a day.
Wet ironing
The difference between this procedure and the previous one is only in the material. IN in this case you need to use cement mortar, which should be quite liquid. The optimal ratio of sand and cement is 1:1. Add lime paste to them, which should be approximately 1/10 of the total volume of cement. It is possible to prepare the mixture from other components: liquid glass, glue
Wet ironing should be carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after the blind area is poured. During this time, the ratio of moisture and strength in the coating should stabilize. Apply the prepared mixture with a spatula or sprayer.
Polymer ironing
This method involves the use of polyurethane impregnation. Compositions for concrete are very popular - Elakor, PENTRA, SPEKTRIN, Lithurin, etc. They are sold in any hardware store. The polymer ironing technology is similar to the dry method. The exception is that after applying the composition, it is better to level it over the concrete surface with a metal trowel.
Polyurethane impregnation allows you to achieve a higher quality coating. The described method can be used even at 0°C. Dry and wet ironing can only be carried out at positive temperatures. Regardless of the method chosen, the drainage tape must be covered with film or other material that can retain moisture.
The use of impregnations for concrete blind areas
Most often, concrete is used to make a drainage strip, since it is an accessible and inexpensive material that lasts for decades. When exposed to air, any concrete structure becomes covered with cracks and other defects. Once in the pores of the material, water freezes and contributes to the appearance of micro-tears in the structure.
The blind area is exposed to water longer than other structures. If you haven't spent protective measures after installing the strip and it has already begun to crumble, you can restore its original appearance using.
Types of means
To effectively treat the blind area and restore it, you first need to choose the appropriate composition. There are impregnations made on the basis of organic and inorganic compounds:
- Organic products are liquid mixtures that contain epoxy resins, polyurethane, acrylic. In contact with concrete, they fill all the pores of the outer layer of the material, which provides it with the ability to repel water and resist aggressive influences external factors. Such compositions make the material more durable and prevent the appearance of cement dust.
- Inorganic agents react with external molecular compounds of the coating, which may dissolve. As a result, they become inert. Thanks to this top layer the material becomes immune to external factors.
How to use impregnation for restoration?
Achieve best result it is possible if you use the described means to treat new concrete surfaces, but this method is also suitable for old blind areas. Before using impregnation, perform the following steps:
- Clean the drainage tape from dirt and dust.
- Repair all chips and cracks.
- It is advisable to do it dry using a grinder.
There is no point in applying impregnation if the surface is uneven and flaky. The new structure should be treated no earlier than 15 days after it is poured. For application, adhere to the following rules:
- Apply impregnations at temperatures from +5 to +40°C. If you carry out work outside this temperature range, the properties of the impregnation may deteriorate.
- Treat the blind area using products personal protection respiratory organs, skin and eyes.
- Apply impregnation to a dry strip to drain water. Do not perform the procedure during rain or fog.
- To apply the composition, use rollers and brushes that are resistant to solvents.
- Treat the blind area in several layers - some time should pass between applications. The second time the impregnation is applied approximately 1 hour after the first, and the third - 2 hours after the second. This general recommendations, because the instructions for each composition have its own instructions.
To concrete blind area did not collapse and performed its function well, it is important to waterproof it. A clamp is often used for this purpose. brickwork or clay. In rare cases, an asphalt screed is used, the layer of which is on average 30 mm.
To protect the blind area in case of large accumulations groundwater If there is poor drainage, be sure to install a ditch along its perimeter. Before filling, cover it with waterproofing. An excellent choice would be materials based on polypropylene. Suitable for solving the problem polyvinyl chloride film. But polyethylene material and roofing felt are practically not suitable for this purpose.
There are two ways to waterproof a blind area:
- Penetrating method. It is very popular, although it appeared relatively recently. It involves increasing the strength and durability of the blind area due to the influence of hydraulic pressure. This can be achieved due to the fact that insulating materials are able to penetrate deep into the pores of the structure - approximately 40 cm. As a result, a crystalline structure is formed, and water does not pass through the body of the material.
- Painting method. Involves protecting a concrete blind area using bitumen mastic. It should be applied to a dry and clean surface over primer using a brush. If necessary, the walls can be easily leveled with mortar. The mastic must be applied in layers, the thickness of each of which should not be more than 2 mm. If you apply the composition to a damp and uncleaned surface, cracks or swelling may appear.
It should be added that bitumen mastic is used for horizontal adhesive waterproofing and as an adhesive solution. Before installation, materials for processing the blind area must be cut into small pieces with allowance for overlap during installation. Before processing the concrete structure, perform high-quality grinding. It can be easily accomplished using a soft-lined roller, but the applied mass must be at least 70 kg.
The blind area is a protective strip of concrete, asphalt, decorative stone or crushed stone, which is located along the outer walls of the house. In addition to the aesthetic effect, it has important function drainage of melt and rain water. According to SNiP, it is located around the entire perimeter of the house.
The blind area itself is made in a multilayer structure. Its surface is covered with concrete and asphalt. These durable materials capable with great efficiency. How to treat a concrete blind area to protect it from the same groundwater, you will learn below.
Waterproofing the blind area is an important process that can protect the home, in particular the basement, from moisture penetration and provide long term its operation. Properly performed waterproofing of the blind area of a house directly affects the quality of life in it.
Ground and melt water Over time, they can seriously damage the foundation of the building, thus leading to small cracks at the first stage, which will only increase over time. You can contact specialists in your field with this problem, but waterproofing the blind area with your own hands is also quite possible.
Our article will tell you in detail how to treat a concrete blind area and what materials can be used to protect it.
What does proper waterproofing of a blind area look like?
Quite often they use it to protect the blind area of a house. Clay or pressed brickwork is often used. Horizontal waterproofing of the blind area can provide protection for the foundation and basement walls, thus creating a barrier to groundwater.
If the structure does not include a basement, then the waterproofing is installed at the same level as the base. On average, this is 20 centimeters above ground level.
If, waterproofing the blind area around the house is done in a cascade version. That is, the material is laid in the form of protrusions, and each previous layer must overlap the next one.
If there is a basement in the house, . The first of them must correspond to the level of the basement floor. The second should be located at the level of the base, slightly above the blind area itself.
Horizontal waterproofing of the blind area can be done using cement screed. Here everything depends on the climate of the region (such criteria as the level of groundwater, soil moisture, and so on are important).
Portland cement with sealing additives, which can be sodium aluminate, is very popular in this regard.
Good protection concrete blind area is achieved with a concrete layer thickness of about 20-25 mm. Instead of concrete, roofing felt or roofing felt is quite suitable. Any of these materials should be laid in two layers, and then glued with mastic.
In rare cases, an asphalt screed is used to waterproof the blind area. Its layer is on average 30 mm.
In addition to the primary one, there are also blind areas. She is called upon to fulfill the role additional protection. With this option, in most cases, waterproofing is used. This material When installing, it should be placed on the walls of the house at a height of up to 20 centimeters. This design will additionally protect the building from negative impact water.
Waterproofing by penetrating method
This method of waterproofing a blind area is now quite popular, despite the fact that it appeared relatively recently. It is based on ensuring a significant increase in the durability and strength of the structure due to the influence of hydraulic pressure.
This effect is possible due to the penetration of insulating materials deep into the pores of the blind area (about 40 centimeters). In this way a crystalline structure is formed. Water is not able to filter through the concrete body.
Waterproofing the blind area of a house using the painting method
The painting method is quite popular. How to treat the concrete blind area in this case? Good protection of a concrete blind area is achieved by using bitumen mastic. It is applied with a brush to a clean and dry surface on top of the primer.
If necessary, the walls can be easily leveled with mortar. This method is also applicable to rubble walls.
Bitumen mastic should be applied in layers. The thickness of each of them should not exceed 2 mm.
This whole process should be divided into several steps, carefully treating the entire surface.
In the end, you should get a continuous waterproofing of the blind area around the house. Under no circumstances should there be any cracks or swelling on it. When applying mastic to an uncleaned or damp wall, these defects may well appear. To get rid of defects, these areas need to be cleaned again, then dried and also covered with a new layer of mastic.
Also used as adhesive solution for horizontal adhesive waterproofing. This method is typical for using roofing felt or roofing felt.
Materials for waterproofing the blind area must be cut into small pieces before installation. It is necessary to make allowance for overlap during the installation procedure itself. Before processing the concrete blind area, careful grinding should be done.
It is easy to do using a roller with a soft lining. The applied mass must be at least 70 kilograms.
Mastic is also used in areas of overlap seams. After the final layer, mastic is applied to the material itself. It should be applied in a continuous layer. Then everything is covered with dry sand. The blind area with insulation and waterproofing is ready!
Other nuances of waterproofing the blind area of a house
- To create a blind area, it is better to use solutions that are made using waterproofing cements. In this case, the protection of the blind area will be much higher.
- How to protect the blind area in case of excessive accumulation of groundwater and in case of poor drainage? It is imperative to make a groove along the perimeter of the blind area. This simple device for waterproofing the blind area, in turn, will ensure water drainage.
- Before filling the ditch for the blind area, you must first cover it with waterproofing. In this case, there must be an influx on the foundation walls. The best materials for this purpose are those that are based on polypropylene. Polyvinyl chloride films are also suitable. Ruberoid and polyethylene film practically unsuitable for these purposes.
- Before covering a concrete blind area with materials with a pronounced porous structure, they must first pass. Without treatment, artificial stone is good for such purposes.
- Drainage profiled membranes will be very useful when installing a blind area. They thus represent an analogue of a concrete blind area. Thus, the membrane located on the ground will be covered with crushed stone and sand.
Following this, waterproofing the blind area around the house can be made from any coating. Here the owner’s hands are completely untied on this issue.
The blind area is a structure that surrounds the house continuously around the perimeter and is closely adjacent to the base. The main function of the blind area is to protect the building from moisture entering...
The main function of the blind area is to prevent the impact of external factors on the foundation of the house. This protective structure, which should prevent any moisture from entering the building, and for this it...
A blind area is an architectural element of a building that performs many functions. It prevents moisture from penetrating into the foundation, basement and technical rooms of the house. Even a small amount of moisture...
A concrete blind area protects the foundation from getting wet by rain and melt water, and the wall from ground moisture, so it is impossible to imagine the exterior of the house without it. As a rule, the blind area is a concrete rim around the house along the perimeter of the base. In most cases, it is left as is, but some homeowners prefer aesthetics and practicality in everything and cover the structure with additional facing materials.
Why cover the blind area?
The choice of material depends on the desired effect. The coating can be waterproofing (additional) or decorative.
Waterproofing the blind area is used to additionally protect the concrete from water, which means it extends the life of the layered structure. Different methods are used for this:
- coloring,
- penetrating waterproofing,
- roll materials.
The blind area is also lined to give it an aesthetic appearance. Often it becomes a path around the house, especially if the width of the tape is 0.7 meters or more. In this case, finishing is done with tiles or covered with crushed stone. Looks good combined option embankments with paving stones.
Waterproofing
When installing the blind area, it is carried out internal waterproofing designs. Usually it is carried out using rolls or coating materials and is laid under concrete with an approach to the wall for the purpose of protection load-bearing elements from getting wet. In addition, concrete itself is not afraid of water.
However, secondary waterproofing will help extend the life of concrete.
Coloring
The simplest and affordable way protect the blind area with special compounds. Enamels are suitable for this:
- polyurethane;
- acrylic;
- primer-enamel.
These compounds form a waterproof film on the surface of the concrete stone and protect it from destruction for a long time - up to 5 years.
The advantage of using paints is the ease of working with them - there is no need to pre-prime the surface. Application is carried out on a dry base with rollers or a brush in 1 or 2 layers. It is recommended to treat not only the surface of the blind area itself - you should also paint the base of the plinth to a height of 10-20 cm.
It is worth noting: it is better not to subject the surface treated with painting to mechanical stress; walking around the house is not recommended - the protective layer wears out quickly.
Ironing
Iron waterproofing is an effective and durable way to protect concrete. Processing can be done in two ways:
- Immediately cover the freshly laid concrete of the blind area with dry cement M300-M400 (the higher the grade of binder, the stronger and more durable the coating). Next, the surface is rubbed and polished after hardening.
- On hardened concrete (2-3 weeks after laying) apply a greasy cement mortar and is smoothed clean.
The essence is the penetration of cement into the porous surface of the concrete base and its strengthening. This method is used to strengthen floors in parking lots and industrial hangars. The treated blind area can be loaded and walked on.
Penetrating waterproofing
Special solutions and dry mixtures for treating concrete penetrate its structure to different depths and fill the voids with crystals. The result is a completely waterproof stone through which water cannot filter. It is enough to coat the concrete once; the effect lasts throughout the entire service life of the structure without the need for additional processing.
The medications must be applied according to the instructions. Dry mixtures are diluted with water and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. Ready-made penetrating solutions are also rolled out with a long-haired roller. The crystallization process occurs naturally - the components of the drug absorb moisture from the concrete and, expanding, fill the capillaries in the body of the stone.
Coating with roll materials
Bitumen rolls and coating materials are used extremely rarely as independent protection for blind areas - yet their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. Basically, their installation is carried out for subsequent finishing or when processing the foundation demolition of garages, industrial buildings and technical structures.
Coating and roll insulation are combined - the joints between individual sheets of roofing felt and its analogues are treated with a liquid solution.
Lay the waterproofing overlapping the wall and fix the sheet with liquid mastic. It is important to seal the joint between the blind area and the wall with a special cord seal.
After laying, roofing felt materials should be covered with crushed stone, sand or covered with tiles.
Tile covering
If the width of the blind area allows you to organize sidewalk path around the house, it is optimal to line the concrete structure with paving stones or external tiles. True, this should be foreseen in advance in order to deepen the cast-off itself to level the surface of the sidewalk and lawn. The concrete layer, accordingly, will be less thin than in the version without cladding.
Any products are suitable for cladding:
- Concrete paving slabs;
- Porcelain tiles;
- Clinker paving stones.
At correct installation This finishing additionally protects the blind area from mechanical loads and rainwater.
Along the perimeter of the cast-off along the width of the sidewalk, it is necessary to install curbs that will hold the paving stones in place and also complete its appearance. The penetration is usually carried out below the tile level by 300-400 mm.
On finished cast-off concrete, the tiles should not be pricked concrete mortar, and on the sand. This will help keep the main structure intact without causing overvoltages.
It’s easy to do the work yourself:
- By concrete base Any type of waterproofing should be carried out (penetrating, roll);
- Next, a layer of dry sand at least 3-5 cm thick is laid and leveled;
- The tiles are being installed. It is not difficult to lay it on sand, it is easy to adjust the location of the fragments and the pattern;
- The seams are rubbed with a dry cement-sand mixture.
As a result, the cladding turns out to be quite high - the thickness of the tiles is usually 3 or more centimeters plus sand cushion. The right choice will help hide the rise curb stone or a blind area pre-lowered at the base.
For convenience, sand can be replaced with a cement-sand dry or moistened mixture in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2.
In parallel with laying the tiles, it is necessary to install gutters to drain water. These can be concrete inserts for the blind area or separate metal or polymer systems.
After completion of the work, the tiles must be watered with a hose or watering can so that the cement-sand mixture is compacted, the binder is activated and hardening processes begin.
Conclusion
Waterproofing and cladding for the blind area will become additional measure protection of structural concrete. Painting is good in itself; it will not highlight the appearance of cast-off iron in any way. Ruberoid protection should be used in combination with tiled finishing of the perimeter of the house, as well as penetrating coating.
If the owners of the house want to cover the blind area paving slabs, this needs to be planned in advance in order to correctly calculate the depth of laying the protective structure.
