The basement of the house performs not so much a decorative function as a practical one. In many cases, it serves to reduce heat loss (it is specially insulated), and also prevents the spread of atmospheric and underground moisture to the walls of the house. It also transfers the load from the walls to the foundation - if the foundation is strip or slab. Therefore, the cladding of the basement of a house should be not only beautiful, but also functional. The finishing material is also selected in accordance with this task.
When to start finishing the basement
It is best to finish the base after it is done. In this case, the finishing material will hang over the path. As a result, even the most slanting rain or streams of water flowing down the walls will not be able to get between the wall and the blind area - the water hits the path at a distance of several centimeters from the joint. It is through this joint that water penetrates to the foundation, bringing dampness and other problems.
You need to start cladding the basement of the house after the blind area around the house has been made
One more thing. Many people are thinking about whether to insulate the basement or not. If you want to save on heating, the answer is to insulate it, just like the blind area. The unit for insulation and cladding of the base - one of the options - is shown in the photo below.
Using ground floor As a residential property, there are no questions regarding insulation, since the answer is clear - of course, insulate it. But even if you don’t have a subfloor, heating costs will be much lower, and the floor in the house will become much warmer.
How to cover the basement of a house
There are a lot of materials for finishing the base. Main requirements: moisture resistance, frost resistance, strength. The following materials satisfy these requirements:
- Natural stones (flagstone) sawn into plates or chipped, so-called “torn stone”:
- sandstone (plastic);
- granite;
- marble;
- slate;
- dolomite;
- shugnit.
- Small cobblestone.
- Large river pebbles.
- Clinker tiles (clinker bricks).
- Paving slabs.
- Porcelain tiles.
- Finishing brick.
- Facade panels, basement siding, PVC panels (these are all names of the same material).
- Plaster (decorative and “under a fur coat”).
- Profiled sheeting.
Some of them cost a lot, some are insignificant, but all of them can be used. The material is chosen based on financial capabilities and previously used finishing materials - the aesthetic component also plays an important role. About technologies for finishing plinths different materials and the speech will begin.
Preparation and insulation
First of all, if the existing base is uneven, its surface is leveled with plaster. The solution for plastering the plinth is cement-sand: for 1 part of cement (Portland cement M 400) take 4 parts of pure construction sand, preferably river. For greater plasticity, you can add a little lime or liquid soap(per bucket of solution 50-80 g). The solution should be of medium thickness so that it does not creep off the wall. There is another option - to use a special composition. For example, like the one in the video.
If tiles, stone or other similar material are then laid, after leveling the mortar, notches are made on its surface with the tip of a trowel (trowel). They are applied in the form of a grid over the entire surface. These shallow grooves will provide the necessary support for the finish.
If the base is insulated, notches are not needed. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) or polystyrene boards are glued directly onto the plastered surface. They are light and adhere well to glue. Their surface is coated with diluted tile adhesive and presses against the plaster. Then they are attached to the surface prepared in this way. Decoration Materials.
Painting, plastering and “fur coat”
In principle, if the plaster is well leveled, after the solution has dried, the surface can be painted and stop there. This is an inexpensive but viable option. If you used façade paint that is intended for outdoor use, the base will look good for a couple of years. Then you'll have to old paint remove and paint again - to maintain appearance.
The next method is on top ordinary plaster apply a layer of decorative. And again, choose those formulations that are intended for external use. They can be tinted in the desired color or taken colored ones. The only negative is that plasters are often porous and splashes of dirt that fall on the walls during bad weather have to be cleaned off with a brush and sometimes with detergent.
The method of finishing the base “like a fur coat” is still popular in some areas. This is when the solution is not applied in an even layer, but in small fragments. Previously, they did this with a broom made of twigs. They dipped it into a liquid solution and hit the stick with the handle so that the splashes flew onto the wall. This is how they made “fur coat” - a finish with a torn surface. Today there are special devices for applying plaster, powered by a compressor. With their help, it is easier to do such finishing.
Finishing the basement of a house using materials in the form of slabs or tiles is technologically more difficult. To prevent it from falling off, you need to know some subtleties.
How to fix porcelain tiles or clinker tiles
If heavy materials such as porcelain stoneware or clinker bricks Just put it on glue, on a plastered surface with grooves, perhaps they will stick normally. And they can even stand for some time. Even several years. But then they will begin to fall off along with the solution. Especially in places where there are no grooves or they are of insufficient depth. To improve adhesion, you can apply a layer of impregnation that improves adhesion (grip), but this is not a guarantee, especially if the material is heavy.
The same picture will happen if you glue the materials directly onto the insulation. The surface is smooth, easy to glue. But after a while the finish will fall off. Faster than with a plastered surface. There is a video about this.
To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to secure a metal painting mesh, preferably galvanized. It is secured with dowels, placing a piece of galvanized steel on the dowel-nail, the size of which is larger than the size of the cell. They are attached at the top, bottom and in a checkerboard pattern in the middle. This creates a reliable basis for material of any weight.
Glue is applied to the base and to the tiles. On the tile, remove it with a notched trowel, put it in place, tap the trowel handle and put it in place, leveling the plane. The distance between the tiles is maintained using crosses, only their thickness is taken to be significant 3-5 mm.
In general, the installation technology is similar to. The only difference is that the glue must be special for outdoor use. The second difference: finishing materials for the plinth begin to be laid from below: they are heavy and need support. You rest the bottom row on the blind area, the second row on it, etc.
Finishing the base of the house with natural stone (shell rock, granite, dolomite, slate)
No matter how attractive artificial shiny surfaces may seem, rough stone for some reason evokes great sympathy. But laying a rubble foundation is difficult and not everyone can do it well enough for a house to stand on it. But anyone can decorate a finished monolithic or natural stone with their own hands, especially if at least part of the work on building a house is done personally.
It is clear that no one will attach whole stones: the finish will be too heavy, and very voluminous. That’s why they came up with the idea to slab or chop stones. Depending on the technology, the result is either a smooth “flagstone” - with almost smooth surfaces, or “ragged stone” with an uneven front part. Sometimes these materials are cut into identical rectangles, sometimes they are left in the form of uneven plates, but in any case it is natural stone and the decoration of the base of the house from it turns out to be beautiful and waterproof.
There is this material made from expensive stones, for example - marble, there is cheaper - slate, dolomite, shugnit, lemezite, granite, etc. They look very impressive. Especially if it is torn stone, although flagstone sometimes looks no worse.
The preparation of the surface will be exactly the same: it is best to fill the plastered plinth with a painting mesh, and then lay the stone plates on it with glue. If they are smooth - natural stone with processed edges - the laying technology will be exactly the same as described above.
If the stone has torn edges, finishing the base of the house becomes more difficult: it is necessary to select plates of such a shape that the seams are not too large. When using this option finishing stone You will need a grinder with a stone disc: most likely you will have to file the plates of the lower and upper rows. Correction will also be needed when decorating the corners. See the video for an example of this technology.
There is a second way. The plastered surface of the base is first coated with a compound to improve adhesion (adhesion), then fragments of finishing are installed on it with glue. They are fixed in a given position using scraps of the same stone or pieces of materials the right size. The seams remain unfilled. After the glue has “set,” the seams are filled with a thin solution from a construction syringe, rubbing and tearing out as necessary.
In any case, any glue that gets on the finish must be removed in a timely manner. It will be very difficult to do this with a frozen one, and the appearance of the glue is far from attractive.
Sometimes, for a clearer pattern, the seams between the stone plates are painted with dark paint. Then the surface is coated with protective impregnation. It gives the stone a slight shine and also often increases its water-repellent properties.
For an example of cladding a plinth with natural stone using the second technology, see the following video.
Facing with boulders or small cobblestones
It is not necessary to buy a boulder or cobblestone. You can collect it on a river or on a pebble beach at sea. Rolled stones are chosen to be flatter - round ones are more difficult to “mount”. The procedure and all other subtleties are almost the same as in the case of finishing with natural stone. The only difference is that these stones must be washed in water and detergent before use. Firstly, the water in our ponds may have oils in it and need to be removed, and secondly, there may be clay or algae in it which can cause the finish to fall off.
To make everything look organic, you can first lay out a “picture” of cobblestone cladding on the path next to the place where you will cladding the base. They have different shades and their random combinations are not always attractive. By laying everything out side by side you will have an idea of what the end result will be.
Watch the video about the features of finishing the plinth with cobblestones.
How to install plastic (PVC) plinth panels
This type of finishing is called differently: basement or façade panels, basement siding. They have a varied appearance: under different types stone, tile, brick.
For PVC installations panels on the plinth, it is necessary to assemble the frame. It is made from wooden beam 50*50 mm. Since the finishing will be outdoors, the wood must be protected with impregnations that prevent rotting and protect against pests.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
Assembly is easy. Only after fastening will it be necessary to make ebbs on top: the sheathing and panels have a fairly decent volume and a gap remains at the top. You can close it roofing iron like in this video. Immediately look at the technology of finishing the base with plastic panels.
In the same way, the base can be finished with corrugated board. There is only one note: it is advisable to lay insulation in the voids between the sheathing. The house will be much warmer.
Finishing the base of a pile foundation
As you know, there is no base. But if you don’t block off the space, there will be drafts under the house, the floor will always be cold, and all kinds of living creatures like to live under the house. Therefore, the base, although decorative, is necessary. It can be done in two ways.
There is one subtlety if the house is installed on screw piles or . Such foundations are often placed on highly heaving soils. To prevent the finishing from being destroyed when the soil is raised, it is not brought to a certain distance to the ground. To prevent animals from crawling into the gap, a metal mesh is fixed at the bottom.
The desire to live in a natural environment pushes people to use natural materials when designing their home landscapes and recreational areas. Recently, natural stone - flagstone - has been widely and successfully used in construction, façade finishing, etc. This is deservedly popular material on.
IN last years paving paths and platforms with flagstone is popular and there are a number of reasons for this. Flagstone - layers natural stone having strength, various colors and natural pattern, which gives the coatings after laying the flagstone originality and unique style.
Which stone to choose and what should you consider when designing a path? How to prepare a trench and lay a cushion? How to lay the final layer? In what order should stones be laid on paths? Let's look at these questions in more detail.
Choosing a stone and designing a path
Flagstone is a flat natural stone, the thickness of which is no more than 150 mm. Depending on the type, flagstone can be slate, granite, sandstone, etc.
When choosing a stone, be sure to consider:
Flagstones are plates of natural natural stone. Flagstone is a flat slab of arbitrary shape. The average thickness of flagstone is from 15 to 60 mm.
- sizes and configuration. The most convenient for installation is considered to be natural stone with a side size of 30-55 cm and a thickness of about 4 cm. If there is no special design idea, then it is better not to take stones with jagged, sawtooth edges. During the installation process, it will be difficult to match them to each other, which in turn requires a significant investment of time. Best material- one that has smooth linear sides;
- origin. Important factor, which makes it possible to predict the durability of the future track. The probability that flagstone of southern origin will not survive the harsh Siberian winter and will delaminate is quite high. The best material can be considered locally mined stone;
- surface characteristics. They determine the practicality of flagstone garden paths.
The stones that will cover paths, sidewalks and paths will need to be walked on at any time of the day, in any weather and at any time of the year. Therefore, you should immediately choose a material with a rough surface so that the likelihood of slipping during rain or ice is minimal.
Steps will complement the design and make the path functional in any weather.
When designing future paths, try to avoid high ascents and descents. If you still can’t do this, then on especially steep sections it is better to provide steps - this will complement the design and make the path functional in any weather.
An important parameter is the width of the track. If you plan to walk alone, then a width of 40-50 cm will be enough, and if you plan to walk together or in a large group, then optimal size will be 80-150 cm, and for driveways the size should be planned from 3 m or more.
Return to contents
How to prepare a trench and lay a cushion
A pillow is the basis of the basics and a guarantor of quality, therefore, in order not to miss something important, step-by-step instructions are needed here.
A cushion must be placed at the bottom of the trench. The supporting layer must be thoroughly compacted throughout.
- Mark future travel routes based on functional load and design intent. For access roads, the width is larger, for secluded walks - smaller. Tracing can be done the old fashioned way - drive in pegs and pull string over them.
- Using a shovel and wheelbarrow, select the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm and transport it to your garden plot or form some kind of landscape fold out of it. If possible, it is better to make the trench depth 40-50 cm. In such a trench it will be possible to lay both a path and access roads. If you are planning a “one step” path, then along its entire length, at a distance of 40 cm from each other, you need to dig separate holes in a zigzag manner, which will subsequently be covered with their own personal, stone platforms.
- To avoid diffusion of the sand cushion, the edges of the trench must be reinforced with formwork made of boards or plywood, and the bottom must be compacted tightly.
- A cushion must be placed at the bottom of the trench. The best material for this is rubble stone. But you can use crushed stone or broken brick remaining after demolition of houses.
- The supporting layer must be thoroughly compacted throughout. IN finished form The height of the pillow should be 10-30 cm.
Return to contents
How to lay the final layer
Now that the pillow is ready, the next stage begins - preparing the final layer. To prevent weeds from bothering you later, the supporting layer must be covered with geofabric. Geofabric or geotextile is a polymer fabric that allows water and air to pass through, but is not exposed to aggressive environments. The final layer is poured onto this fabric, which can consist of fine sand or prance.
To future path does not spread to the sides; a concrete curb is laid or poured along the edges. If we are talking about a landscape path, then lay or fill it 2-3 cm below the level of the masonry in order to preserve natural look. There are several ways to paving paths, some of which are given below.
The design of paths, covered with natural stones, the seams between which are filled with mortar (a), plant soil with sown grass (b) and roads for vehicles (c): 1 - natural stone; 2 - solution; 3 - sand; 4 - plant soil; 5 - monolithic concrete; 6 - crushed stone; 7 - rubble stone.
- The flagstone is laid on sand, and the spaces between the stones are also filled with sand. The stones are not fixed in anything, and therefore the path can change the configuration of the surface over time. But this minus is more than made up for by the fact that the path will not crack with any movement of the soil.
- Natural stone is fixed with a concrete screed. A 5 cm layer of sand-cement mixture is poured onto the geofabric—gartzovka. It consists of one part cement and four parts sand. Stones are laid on the mixture and tamped with rubber mallets so that they are immersed in the composition to no less than one third of their height. Then the track is poured and swept so that it gets into the gaps between the stones. This process must be repeated 4-5 times. Under influence atmospheric moisture the cement will set and fix the stone.
- Flagstone can also be laid on a concrete pad. A sand bedding with a layer height of 2-3 cm is made on the geofabric and a layer of 3-5 cm is laid out on it cement mortar in the place where one stone was laid. The stone from the laying side is moistened with liquid cement mortar, placed on a concrete pad and pressed against it with force. If necessary, trim with a mallet. The next stone is placed nearby in the same order and so on. Upon completion of installation, the seams are compacted with mortar. This technology allows you to lay concrete mortar on metal reinforcement, which will increase the strength and durability of the path.
Or flagstone is a natural material, which, unlike artificial stone, durable and environmentally friendly.
- a rather complex and labor-intensive process. The flagstone itself is very heavy and, moreover, uneven.
Meanwhile, this material Currently widely used in construction and finishing works.
In order to lay flagstone, let’s determine what tools we need:
- laser ruler and tape measure - for carrying out measuring work;
- a hammer drill with a stirrer or a mixer - for stirring glue and concrete;
- spatula or trowel - necessary for applying glue;
- rubber mallet - for neat;
- vibrating plate - necessary for compacting the coating;
- grinder - used for cutting flagstone.
In addition to the material itself, for laying work we will need sand, cement, crushed stone or ready-mixed concrete, special glue for laying flagstones, grating (a mixture of gypsum and sand).
Preparatory work
Before laying the stone, it is necessary to make a calculation required material. Using a laser ruler or tape measure, the total surface area for laying is measured, from which the area on which flagstone will not be laid is subtracted. This applies, for example, to the case when the basement of a building is laid with natural stone. In this case, it is necessary to subtract the area of windows and doors.
The material itself is laid in reserve. In the case of artificial stone or ceramic tiles this reserve is approximately 10%. Due to the fact that natural stone is not so smooth, a larger reserve can be laid down for it, especially since it will need to be selected - the flaking or crumbling material is thrown away.
Next, the soil and level are assessed groundwater. Please note that this work must be carried out by specialists. The flagstone itself is uneven, and this can contribute to fluid retention. Therefore, it is necessary to plan gutters and drainage. In this case, the slope of the site itself should be approximately 2 degrees. However, this is not always required complex preparation soil - sometimes a small layer of sand is necessary and sufficient. If you plan to lay natural stone on pedestrian paths and/or car parking, then you cannot do without additional soil compaction using a vibrating plate.
In the case of car parking, it is necessary to use concrete - make a concrete screed. In addition, if, according to experts, the soil is mobile, then it is necessary to pour concrete onto the reinforced road mesh.
Return to contents
Preparatory work for different thicknesses of the material used
If you decide to add finishing elements to the interior decorative stone or completely cover the walls with it, it should be taken into account that much more light will be required to illuminate such a room.
Wild stone is not an even and smooth material, unlike artificial stone. For example, the thickness of natural sandstone stone ranges from 1 to 4 cm. Such material should only be laid on finished concrete base. When the screed has dried, the flagstone must be sorted according to size, thickness and smoothness. Next, the stones must be rinsed under running water and dried. It should be noted that sandstone is ideal natural material For self-installation. It is not recommended to lay limestone without protective treatment.
If you are using wild stone with a thickness of more than 4 cm, then you need to do the following preparatory work:
- the site is marked and the corresponding layer of soil is removed;
- taking into account the expected loads, it is necessary to do either sand cushion, or pour a layer of concrete. If you plan to pave the road, and there will be heavy traffic on the road, then the depth of the base for laying should be at least half a meter, of which 30 cm will go to the sand cushion and about 10 cm to the concrete. In case of pedestrian paths it is necessary to make a base of crushed stone and sand approximately 20 cm thick and concrete screed 5 cm thick. Crushed stone and sand must be laid in layers of 5 cm and thoroughly compacted under running water;
- it is also necessary to plan drainage system providing water drainage.
After preparatory work It is recommended to arrange the stones in the required order in the area planned for laying. If any part protrudes beyond the boundaries of the site, then the excess parts must be cut off with a grinder or the flagstone must be rearranged so that no excess parts remain.
Return to contents
Material laying technology
The space between the rows of cladding is filled with small stones and mortar that holds the cladding in place.
Flagstone is usually laid using a suture method, that is, the stones are placed at a great distance from each other. The seamless method of laying such material (when the seams are thin - about 0.5 cm) is very labor-intensive. In addition, the stone itself will be needed much more than with the seam installation method, because the material will need to be adjusted to the size.
The flagstones begin to be laid from the outer rows. Side stones are laid on cement mortar. The gaps between the stones must be at least 5 mm. They are filled with fine sand, compacted, covered and spilled with water.
There are three techniques for laying flagstone:
- arc;
- in-line;
- arbitrary.
Most often, wild stone is laid using an arc method. Row laying allows you to get even seams in one direction. The direction of the seams most often coincides with the direction of movement. The outer stones are installed, between which the thread is stretched. The stones are laid to the specified depth using rubber hammers. In order to lay the flagstone in a staggered manner and fill the gaps with grass or grass, it is necessary to bury the stones by 1/3. After this, prawning is poured and the surface is swept.
One of the most popular decorative ways calculations wild stone is a mosaic circle. For a mosaic circle, choose a surface with a slight slope. We prepare the solution on which the material will be attached. Take sand and cement and mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
Then we proceed directly to installation. We lay the stones from the center. Next, you need to move along the periphery, placing stones using a rubber hammer. The material is laid from smallest to largest - that is, the smallest stone should be in the center. It is desirable that the stones be different colors. After 5 rows of material have been laid, they must be compacted. Gartsovka is poured into the gaps. Gaps can also be scraped to a depth of 2 cm with a scraper and then filled with a binding emulsion. For beauty, you can lay granite stone around the mosaic circle.
In addition to the mosaic circle, the material can be laid out in any pattern. If there are many stones of different shapes, sizes and colors, then they can be laid in a chaotic manner. It will turn out very impressive.
After the time-consuming and physically difficult process of making a drainage base and concreting the base of a garden path, it would seem that the only thing left is to complete flagstone paving. But, like any Finishing work, which determine the final appearance of our product, this process requires knowledge of certain nuances. To decorate garden paths, as a rule, natural stone is chosen - flagstone, also called plastushka. This name does not come from the mineral, but from the appearance of the building stone, or rather its flat shape. Which is undoubtedly very convenient when decorating, since it requires almost no additional processing.
What is flagstone? Selecting the type of flagstone stone.
Specialized site for stone
Flagstone is a flat stone of arbitrary shape. It is formed from rocks that break up into flat slabs along parallel areas. Flagstone of the following types is found on sale: sandstones, quartzite-sandstones, shales, limestones and dolomites. Choice natural stone paving garden paths is a purely individual matter. Each stone, as a creation of nature, has its own individual character, history and medicinal properties. Many of them are powerful magical amulets. I will only note that not all stones are ideal for floor paving in paths. Thus, the most affordable flagstone, sandstone, which is well suited for vertical decoration, very quickly begins to delaminate on paths. Of course, a lot depends on the quality of the stone itself, but it’s not always worth the risk. The same drawback applies to slates; among them, only green slate is used for paving.
Limestone is very easy to process, but is absolutely not suitable for lining paths; the stone is too soft, requiring additional processing from moisture penetration even with vertical cladding. A good option is to choose dolomite. Marble is a noble, almost eternal material, winter time year will become extremely slippery, and also accumulates radiation, but quartzite can be an excellent alternative. Flagstones for sale in large construction stores or specialized places - stone platforms. A stone of approximately the same fixed thickness from 10 to 70 mm is selected, formed into pallets and sold from 1 square meter.
Selecting glue for gluing flagstone.
When choosing an adhesive, you need to make sure that it is intended for external cladding of the floor with natural stone, and not just walls, and that concrete and cement screed are suitable as the base. I recommend considering only specialized adhesives, universal ones do not always provide the result we want; we have to “pay” for universalism. We select, if necessary, special brands for paths with intense load or heating, look at the shelf life and operating temperature range, especially important if the work is carried out in the autumn-spring period. If necessary, we use the necessary additives produced only by the glue manufacturer. Please note that most adhesives for working with natural stone must be mixed twice after a certain period of time, so read the instructions carefully.
Getting ready to paving flagstone on the garden path.
Place for installing a built-in lamp
Flagstone paving is possible not only on a concrete base, but also on an old one concrete path. If, when casting concrete, you missed the moment of creating places for installing lamps, then it’s time to arm yourself with a hammer drill or grinder to minimize further damage when lighting the finished path. Then we prepare the concrete base for work. If it was cast a long time ago or we want to cover an old concrete path, then it must be washed and treated with a primer. If there is still residual moisture in it, then nothing additional needs to be done.
Flagstone garden path
When paving flagstone on concrete bases, we select a stone 25-40 mm thick. We lay out the flagstone along the path, selecting the pattern and uniformity of the gaps. We trim the edges with an angle grinder - a grinder with a diamond wheel. If possible, it is better to do this with water supplied to the cut site. If not, then the circle should be for dry cutting. Usually it also indicates the types of stones for which it is intended to work. For dry pruning, it is better to do it in a remote place; there will be a lot of dust. Don’t forget to protect your eyes and safety precautions in general. This is perhaps the most time-consuming part of the work, but the entire aesthetics of the future garden path will depend on its result. The glue will harden quickly in air and there will be no time left for trimming and finishing. We wash the flagstone from dust and deposits on the side where we will apply glue or mortar. For this we need good water pressure, and possibly preliminary manual processing with a brush.
Choosing flagstone
Selecting a pattern
My flagstone
Paving flagstone on the concrete base of a garden path.
Mix the glue according to the manufacturer's instructions. We apply it to the concrete base. We lay out the flagstones in accordance with the selected pattern. We start with the thickest tiles; thinner stones are brought below the level using a thicker layer of glue. Carefully press the flagstone into the adhesive mixture so that there are no voids left underneath. The glue must occupy the entire space, otherwise water may accumulate in the voids, which in winter will squeeze out the tiles when it freezes. We try not to apply too much, so that when pressing glue solution only filled the seams. We immediately remove the remaining glue from the front side of the natural stone, otherwise in a few days you will need a metal brush. We set the height of the tiles to the level and ensure the slope of the path for good drainage. Let it stand until the glue acquires operational strength, the period is indicated by the manufacturer.
Garden paths, if they are correctly and beautifully planned, perform several functions on the site at once.
Firstly, it is very convenient: to remain in clean shoes in any weather.
Secondly, it is the pleasure of beautiful view of his own household plot.
Tools and materials needed for work
So, we will need:
- pegs and rope;
- tape measure;
- level;
- shovel;
- manual vibro-tamping machine;
- container for making mixtures;
- Master OK;
- Bulgarian;
- hammer for chipping castings;
- mallet with a rubber nozzle;
- brush.
You don't have to buy it all. Of course, an angle grinder may come in handy in the future, but a tamping machine, if not taken seriously construction work, is unlikely to be used frequently on the farm.
This instrument can be rented.
Materials:
- flagstone;
- cement;
- sand;
- water;
- crushed stone;
- curb barriers.
Flagstone for paths
We purchase a stone
Once the decision has been made, you must first purchase the flagstone itself. This task is not easy.
You need to understand the rock in order to choose exactly the stone that will please the eye and at the same time serve faithfully for a long time.
Here are some tips on this matter:
- When choosing sandstone flagstone for paths its origin should be taken into account. It should be as close as possible to the area where the stone will be used. Matter climatic conditions, in which he “grew up”. If, for example, the deposit is located much further south, the stone will not be frost-resistant enough.
- It is also worth paying attention to flagstone color and structure. Usually than brighter than tiles, the softer and more layered they are. Green flagstone has the highest density. It is generally better to use light yellow only for finishing, while covering it with varnish.
- The thickness of the tiles themselves can be varied, depending on the application. In this case, you should consider how the path will be laid. If on cement screed, then for pedestrians the thickness can be 1 cm, for cars it is necessary to buy flagstone with a thickness of 2 cm. If the stones are laid on sand, then their required thickness doubles. The edges should be as smooth as possible to make them easier to lay. Although, if you have an angle grinder, this problem can be solved very easily.
- Another important point when buying flagstone is its humidity. He could for a long time stored in a damp place. This deficiency can be easily detected by palpation. In this case, the tiles may crumble right in your hands when laying. This is defective material and is not worth spending money on.
- It is advisable to purchase goods from one batch, as stone shades may vary slightly. And, although you may not notice it right away, all the imperfections will be visible on the finished tracks.
Without a project there is no quality
Before starting work, it is necessary to have a design of future paths. To do this, you will need pegs and a rope of sufficient thickness and color so that it is visible on the ground surface. With their help we outline the contours.
If the area of the household plot allows it to be used in decorative purposes, for relaxation, you can use all your imagination and make paths of any shape and size.
It should be remembered that completely smooth paths and right angles between them conceal space and make the landscape far from natural, which is not conducive to relaxation.
But, in any case, on his site, each owner does what is convenient and what he likes.
If curves are needed, it is better to use a “compass” made from two pegs and a rope. From a design point of view, it is better when “blood vessels” personal plot located geometrically correctly.
On uneven ground, it is better to mark a step; it will look more beautiful, and the flagstone will be laid more efficiently.
The width of the tracks is selected depending on their functional properties. If they are built for pedestrians, you should not make it more than one meter. Although, to implement various artistic solutions, you can do whatever you like.
Laying the foundation
The strength and durability of paths made of flagstone depends primarily on their base. The stronger and more durable it is, the longer and more reliable the tracks will serve.
First you need to remove upper layer soil to a depth of 40-50 cm, following the markings made in advance from rope on pegs, compact the soil well at the bottom.
Pour a 15-20 cm layer of crushed stone or stone scrap and compact it. Install curb barriers for concrete screed. Fill concrete mixture future path.
Smooth everything out and leave it to dry, not forgetting to moisturize it if the weather is very hot. This will protect the base of the paths from drying out.
For that It will take several days for the concrete to set properly..
Preparing and laying stones
This time can be used to prepare the stone tiles.
It must be carefully sorted, washed and cleaned with a stiff brush to remove dirt and excess deposits.
It would be good to thoroughly prepare for laying the stones by making a “draft” of the path, approximately laying each tile in its place so that the gaps between them are as narrow as possible.
A grinder will help with this. It can be used to cut off excess protrusions that prevent the stones from moving closer to each other.
To save money, glue for attaching flagstone to a screed can be diluted with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:2, one part of glue to two parts of the mixture.
Flagstone path on a concrete base
It is better to apply the adhesive mixture to the concrete in excess; the excess will be removed later. The fact is that water will definitely get into the resulting voids, which will gradually destroy the masonry. We carefully place the stone on the glue, tile by tile, pressing them well into the concrete and towards each other.
Remove excess glue with a trowel and wipe with a rag, since when it dries, it will be difficult to do this.
When laying It is necessary to level the tiles immediately to avoid the formation of special protrusions, through which pedestrians will definitely stumble. And the path itself will look much more beautiful if it looks smooth.
After a few hours, when the adhesive mixture has completely dried, the stones must be thoroughly cleaned of construction debris. This should be done with a hard brush, first filling the path with water.
If the path does not bear any loads, the tiles can be laid directly into the ground. To do this, you need to remove its top layer according to the markings, compact it well, lay out flagstone and fill the cracks with soil.
Beautiful walking path
This method serves more for decorative purposes.
Laying flagstone on a sand base
The photo shows a method of laying flagstone on a sand base
A more practical way of laying flagstone on a sand base.
According to the markings, you should dig a small hole. Thoroughly compact the soil at the bottom, add a layer of sand, and compact it in the same way.
At the same time, its surface should be as smooth as possible so that the path looks aesthetically pleasing.
Laying must be done on your own to prevent damage to the prepared sand cushion. Next, use a mallet with a rubber nozzle to hammer in the tiles.
At the same time leaving small gaps between them. You can pour sand into these gaps, or you can pour soil with grass seeds for lawns. This will make a beautiful walking path.
The video shows the laying of a backlit path.
To make a garden path more durable, it is necessary to prevent the tiles from sticking together at the edges. This can be done using a border.
They can serve as stone, which is more practical, or wooden boards, previously treated with a primer, or special rubber or plastic borders, which can be purchased at gardening stores.
For this method, you first need to remove the soil along the markings to a depth of about 30cm. Compact it well, then fill it with 10-15 cm of sand, level it and compact it in the same way.
For these methods, it is advisable to lay a geotextile fabric between the soil and sand. This prevents sand from being washed out, prevents subsidence, and prevents weeds from growing. And in general, it increases the service life of the track and makes it more durable.
It is worth remembering that for any installation method it is necessary to maintain a slope of approximately 3 °. So that the water does not stagnate on the path, but has a natural drainage.
As can be seen from the above, there are particular difficulties in working with garden paths no flagstone. This good way decorate your site, emphasize its individuality, and also feel pride and satisfaction from the results of your work.
