How to make lathing for plastic panels yourself? How to make lathing for PVC panels? Metal profile frame for plastic panels.

Finishing materials for the ceiling are presented in a wide variety, so choosing the preferred option is easy. To do this, be guided by your own preferences, interior style and requirements for quality and reliability indicators. One of the popular options is PVC panels.

They are distinguished by their versatility and ease of use, including for wall surfaces. The installation process is simple, so everyone can do it with their own hands, starting with creating the frame. The main thing is to create a durable sheathing for the structure made of PVC panels. It will guarantee that ceiling structure it will be reliable and durable.

Attention! Pay attention to all the details when creating a structure that acts as a frame, strictly following the instructions on the video, which will show the stages of the process.

What is sheathing or frame?

The sheathing is the basis of the structure. It implies the ability to mount panels on the ceiling and walls of rooms. Frames are made from various materials, including plastic.

Among the advantages of this option are the following:

Resistant to temperature changes.
Easy to install on any surface, including walls.
Resistance to moisture.
Possibility to use repeatedly, saving money.
Resistant to deformation.

Frames are also made from other materials. Among them are metal profiles or wooden slats. Wood is not resistant to moisture and temperature changes, which will negatively affect the operation of the sheathing for walls and ceilings. The result is visible deformation. Metal structure not always suitable for PVC, as it becomes too heavy an option.

When compared to these materials, PVC frame has advantages. Among them are the simplicity and efficiency of installation, including for wall surfaces. The panels are easily attached to each other, eliminating the formation of gaps or cracks. Additionally, clips are used to ensure a secure fit to the wall or surface.

One more positive trait– resistance to mold and mildew. Plastic structures are fireproof and easily tolerate moisture and dampness, which cannot be said about their wooden or metal counterparts. If required, a plastic frame is used as a cable for organizing wiring.

What will be useful during the creation process?

You can create it yourself. This process is simple, and everyone probably has the tools needed for this at home. If desired, you can call the command experienced craftsmen who will quickly cope with the task assigned to them. But doing it yourself will give you a reason to be proud of your own successes.

Prepare the following tools:

Screwdriver.
Drill.
Tape measure or ruler.
Construction level, optimal choice– water option.
Hacksaw.

This is enough to create a PVC frame. Despite the fact that the cost will be more expensive than a wooden one, the result will pleasantly surprise you. There is no need to use antiseptics, and the installation itself is based on the use of special clip-fasteners, which facilitates the process.

Remember that decorative elements attached to a plastic frame in a perpendicular position relative to the structural elements. Compliance with this simple recommendation guarantees the quality of the fastening and the absence of problems later.

Stages of installation of the structure

To ensure successful installation of PVC lathing, follow the recommendations of professionals. The first thing people pay attention to is the distance between the slats. This is true for both ceilings and walls. Optimal distance– step of 30 cm. The PVC slats themselves are placed in a perpendicular position to the panels. In other words, if the panels are mounted in a vertical position, the slats are fastened horizontally and in reverse order.

An important point is the marking. It is carried out at the initial stage. Without this high quality frame It will not be possible to create one for the ceiling or walls. If you find it difficult to mark yourself, watch the video. It will introduce you to the details of the marking process for the ceiling and walls.

The frame is fastened along the perimeter of the room; to do this, measure the length of the walls, finding the lowest angle, draw a horizontal line from it, along which they begin to mount the frame. Panels from PVC material are joined together using a hacksaw and a miter box. These tools will allow you to get a good cut on the panels with minimal dimensions. The material is fastened every 25-30 cm.

If desired, you can make this process easier. To do this, pull the fishing line along the marking line. This makes installation easier and reduces the likelihood of errors.

If you have been able to appreciate the advantages of PVC lathing and lining the ceiling and walls with plastic panels, carefully prepare for the installation process. To perform the steps correctly, watch the video. It will allow you to understand the intricacies of the process of creating a ceiling, and avoid typical mistakes. Video is the best assistant that guarantees that the cladding is done correctly.

PVC panels are at the peak of their popularity today. Both in private homes and in educational institutions, and in retail establishments – you can see these panels everywhere. Modern technologies have made them completely harmless and very light, which is an obvious advantage compared to other materials for finishing works. Their popularity is also associated with a number of advantages:

reasonable price;
aesthetic appearance;
variety of textures and colors;
ease of installation.

Types of lathing

Plastic panels are durable, and this is another reason to choose them. In addition, you can order panels on which any photograph or drawing will be applied. This will make your interior truly unique.

Installing such panels is not a problem. Lathing for PVC panels will help you with this.

The type of lathing for them will depend on the room in which the panels are installed.

Attention! Pay attention to all the details when creating a structure that acts as a frame, strictly following the instructions on the video, which will show the stages of the process.

What is sheathing or frame?

The sheathing is the basis of the structure. It implies the ability to mount panels on the ceiling and walls of rooms. Frames are made from various materials, including plastic.

Among the advantages of this option are the following:

Resistant to temperature changes.
Easy to install on any surface, including walls.
Resistance to moisture.
Possibility to use repeatedly, saving money.
Resistant to deformation.

Frames are also made from other materials. Among them are metal profiles or wooden slats. Wood is not resistant to moisture and temperature changes, which will negatively affect the operation of the sheathing for walls and ceilings. The result is visible deformation. A metal structure is not always suitable for PVC, as it becomes too heavy an option.

Another positive feature is resistance to mold and mildew. Plastic structures are fireproof and easily tolerate moisture and dampness, which cannot be said about their wooden or metal counterparts. If required, a plastic frame is used as a cable for organizing wiring.

What will be useful during the creation process?

You can create it yourself. This process is simple, and everyone probably has the tools needed for this at home. If you wish, you can call a team of experienced craftsmen who will quickly cope with the task assigned to them. But doing it yourself will give you a reason to be proud of your own successes.

Prepare the following tools:

Screwdriver.
Drill.
Tape measure or ruler.
Construction level, the optimal choice is the water option.
Hacksaw.

Remember that decorative elements are attached to the plastic frame in a perpendicular position relative to the structural elements. Compliance with this simple recommendation guarantees the quality of the fastening and the absence of problems later.

Stages of installation of the structure

To ensure successful installation of PVC lathing, follow the recommendations of professionals. The first thing people pay attention to is the distance between the slats. This is true for both ceilings and walls. The optimal distance is a step of 30 cm. The PVC slats themselves are placed in a perpendicular position to the panels. In other words, if the panels are mounted in a vertical position, the slats are fastened horizontally and in the reverse order.

An important point is the marking. It is carried out at the initial stage. Without this, it will not be possible to create a high-quality frame for the ceiling or walls. If you find it difficult to mark yourself, watch the video. It will introduce you to the details of the marking process for the ceiling and walls.

The frame is fastened along the perimeter of the room; to do this, measure the length of the walls, finding the lowest angle, draw a horizontal line from it, along which they begin to mount the frame. Panels made of PVC material are joined together using a hacksaw and a miter box. These tools will allow you to get a good cut on the panels with minimal dimensions. The material is fastened every 25-30 cm.

If desired, you can make this process easier. To do this, pull the fishing line along the marking line. This makes installation easier and reduces the likelihood of errors.

If you have been able to appreciate the advantages of PVC lathing and lining the ceiling and walls with plastic panels, carefully prepare for the installation process. To perform the steps correctly, watch the video. It will allow you to understand the intricacies of the ceiling creation process and avoid common mistakes. Video is the best assistant that guarantees that the cladding is done correctly.

In addition to commercial and residential premises, lathing makes it possible to mount panels in rooms with high humidity, in places where temperature fluctuates and unheated rooms. It is not subject to deformation and can be used reusably, as there is no damage left on it.

You can make a sheathing from wooden slats or purchase a plastic one, on which the panels are fixed using special clips. In addition, now many people have begun to use a metal profile to install the frame.

In practice, it became clear that wood is not the most the best material for lathing. Since between PVC panels the joints are almost invisible; any gap will become very noticeable when the frame is deformed.

Differences plastic sheathing from wood:

allows for quick installation; panels are snapped onto the rail with clips;
resistance to dampness, mold and fungi do not form;
can be used as cable channel for wiring;
fireproof.

Creating a sheathing - preparatory instructions

In order to make the sheathing, you need to follow some tips.

It is necessary to maintain the distance between the slats. Ideally it should be 30 cm, but not more than 50 cm.
The slats must be installed perpendicular to the plastic panels. If the panel will be mounted vertically, then the bar must be positioned horizontally, and vice versa.
It should be placed not only at the beginning and at the end work surface, but also around window and doorways.

To install the frame there is no need for preliminary preparation surfaces. To make a sheathing for PVC panels, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials: an electric drill, a screwdriver or a screwdriver, a construction level (for leveling the slats in vertical and horizontal planes), a hacksaw, a plumb line, a square, a miter box, and a tape measure.

Material should be next: straight wooden slats or timber 30x10 (for interior work) and 30x20 (for facade work), metal profiles or special PVC profiles, drill with a tip for the diameter of the dowel, screws, chalk (for marking).

Lathing for PVC panels - let's get to work

Installation of the frame for fastening the panels is the most critical stage of the work. The type of room will depend on the straightness and correctness of the supporting structures. If wooden slats are used, they should be chosen without knots, the straightest ones, and the humidity should be no more than 18%.

If indoors high humidity, then small cuts need to be made in the slats so that air can circulate. After everything is prepared, you can begin marking the perimeter. It should be performed in the same way as for another type of frame, starting from the most protruding point.

Using chalk, a tape measure and a straight batten, you need to draw the contours along which the sheathing will be installed under the PVC panels. Next, using a plumb bob, an electric drill and a level, the slats are mounted and secured with screws and dowels to the working surface. The distance between the planks on the wall should be 40-50 cm, on the ceiling 30-40 cm.

If the wall is uneven, then the sheathing is leveled using wooden or veneered spacers. Usually there is a space between the wall and the frame, which can be filled with insulation if desired. It will provide the room with heat and sound insulation. After completing the installation of the frame, you can begin installing the panels.

Thanks to the lathing, the panels can be installed even in rooms with high humidity, unstable temperatures, or even unheated rooms. Plastic sheathing for PVC panels lasts longer than they themselves because they do not deform under the influence of a negative environment. It is often used for new panels after dismantling old ones.

Plastic and wood

The structure may consist of wooden or plastic slats. The latest PVC panels are attached to special clips, which is very convenient. A design made from a metal profile is rare, but it is not yet very popular among craftsmen. The metal base has its drawbacks, including heavy weight compared to plastic.

Experienced experts say that wood is far from the best material for such structures. Wooden sheathing can be deformed, which entails changes in the appearance of the panels. Ideally, they should fit very tightly - without visible joints. Therefore, changes in the design of the sheathing are immediately reflected in the panels themselves, which only shift slightly, but this already greatly spoils the aesthetic perception.

Advantages of plastic over wood:

thanks to fastening with clips to the rail, installation becomes easier and faster;
not susceptible negative influence humid environment, therefore it is not a concentration of mold and fungi;
often used as a wiring conduit;
fireproof.

Thanks to these undeniable advantages, plastic sheathing for panels clearly has an advantage when choosing a material.

Preparation before installation of the sheathing

To create the sheathing yourself, you should follow some recommendations from the masters:

There must be a certain distance between the slats. It is better if it turns out to be the same, this way it is much easier to calculate the amount of material for the entire structure. The optimal distance is 30 cm, but the norm is up to 50 cm;
The installation of the slats should be perpendicular to the panels. Vertical panels are attached to horizontal slats, and horizontal ones, respectively, to vertical ones;
The strips must be located at the beginning and at the end of the entire surface on which installation work is carried out. Don't forget about window and door openings.

The wall surface does not need to be further prepared before installing the sheathing structure. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools in advance:

screwdriver or screwdriver;
electric drill;
building level;
plumb line;
hacksaw for wood;
miter box;
square;
roulette;
a drill with a tip suitable for dowels;
screws;
dowels;
chalk for marking.

For the design itself you will need:

slats or timber made of wood - 30×10 and 30×20 (for interior and facade work);
metal or PVC profiles.

So that everything you need is at hand and you don’t have to be distracted while working.

Lathing for PFC panels – installation

The most responsible and important stage in the installation is the installation of the frame. How straight and correct the lathing is, the panels themselves will acquire an aesthetically attractive appearance after their installation is completed. It will not be possible to hang finishing elements beautifully and evenly on a crooked base.

If wooden slats are used, their humidity should not exceed 18%. All parts future design choose whole, straight and without knots. When using this material, you should know that this type of lathing is not suitable for a bathroom or kitchen.

Marking the perimeter for the frame is done from the most protruding area. Based on it, it will be possible to make the finishing layer of panels as even as possible. Using chalk, tape measure and slats, outlines are drawn to which the sheathing for the panels will correspond. To install the slats, use a plumb line with an electric drill and a level. The elements are fastened to each other and to the wall using screws and dowels.

The space between the slats should be:

on the wall – 400-500 mm;
on the ceiling - 300-400 mm.

On a curved wall, the panel sheathing is leveled using wood or plywood spacers. The building level checks how level the structure is. The space between the wall and the panel sheathing is filled with insulation. It is not necessary to do this, but you need to keep in mind that this place can easily be used for its intended purpose. Thanks to the insulation, it will not only become warmer, but also increase the sound insulation of the room.

Installation of the panels begins only after the installation of the sheathing has been completed.

Finishing walls with plastic panels has a number of advantages, which include high installation speed, excellent technical characteristics of the material, and no need to pre-level the walls. It is quite possible for people who do not have professional construction and repair skills to carry out such work. But if PVC installation The installation of lamellas does not cause any particular difficulties, but during the installation of the lathing a number of questions arise. How to make a sheathing for plastic panels will be discussed in our article.

An example of a wooden sheathing for plastic panels

Required materials and tools

To avoid downtime during the installation process due to searching for missing parts, you should prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials. For work you will definitely need:

The following materials are used for installation of the sheathing:

wooden blocks;
galvanized profile;
plastic guides.

Each of these samples is quite easy to install and has proven itself during operation. There is no single recommendation on how to choose the right material for installation; preference should be given based on your financial capabilities or available remnants from previous repairs.

Calculation of materials for the frame

Don't forget to calculate the materials in advance

Any construction installation work begin with preliminary calculations of the required materials and drawing up an estimate. Regardless of the materials used, the installation process and layout remain unchanged.

To assemble the sheathing, on which the panels will not bend or sag, you will initially need to install profile frames (bars) along the perimeter of each wall, and only then install the transverse slats.

Please note that the installation of slats around the perimeter of window and door openings is also a prerequisite.

Before making the sheathing, measure the height and width of the walls, as well as the perimeter of the doors and windows. You will also need these measurements to calculate the required number of plastic panels.
The specific gravity of the panels allows you to assemble the sheathing with a pitch between the slats of 50 cm or more. The distance between them depends on the quality and thickness of the plastic. The more durable material intended to be used, the larger the gap can be left.
On a wall 250 cm high, you will need to fill the frame around the perimeter and place 4 transverse slats in it every 50 cm or 3 slats every 62 cm.
To attach the slats to the wall, use self-tapping screws (for wooden or adobe surfaces) or dowels and nails (for concrete and brick bases) with a pitch of 20–30 cm between them.

Based on the measurements obtained, it is easy to calculate required quantity consumables.

Marking and installation

Be sure to use a level when marking

The lathing, made in a single plane, is the key to a high-quality plastic-lined wall.

The most significant advantages of finishing walls with plastic panels include the ability to carry out installation without first leveling the rough base. The wall and ceiling may have significant unevenness and roughness. However, this does not mean at all that you will not have to carry out high-quality measurements and bring the sheathing into a single plane.

In multi-storey buildings same height walls at all points of the room, as well as right angles are the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, with the help of panels it is necessary not only to decorate the surface, but also to give the room the correct geometric shape.

Ceiling

Attaching panels to the ceiling sheathing

To begin installing the sheathing, start from the lowest corner. The first mark is left at a distance from the ceiling equal to the width of the profile used. If you plan to install built-in spotlights, then take into account the height of the soffit. In cases where there is a need to lower the ceiling, thereby reducing the height of the walls, a mark is placed at the desired point.

Using a hydraulic or laser level, additional markings are made, drawing marks on each wall, retreating 10 - 15 cm from the corner.
Connect the marks using a tapping cable (a strong thread richly painted with dry powder).
Mark the ceiling in increments of 50–60 cm.

The resulting lines serve as a guide for screwing the sheathing to the base.

Walls

For walls, it is extremely important to assemble a frame with right angles 90 degrees. There is no way to get by here without laser level or construction corner.

Example of wall lathing

First of all, bars or profiles are filled in the corners of the room. If necessary, additional gaskets are placed under them. It is important at this stage to position the slats so that the angle formed between the mating surfaces is straight. Check the resulting connections using a construction angle.
The profiles are fastened along the ceiling and floor coverings.
Pull the cord between the upper and lower profiles, and, focusing on it, install the horizontal strips of the sheathing.
Profile slats must be placed along the perimeter of window and door openings.

When installing a frame under a plastic structure on a balcony or loggia, they use the same calculations and methods. However, it makes sense to insulate the room by placing a layer of thermal insulation in strips between the profiles.

Features of a wooden frame

Ceiling sheathing for plastic lamellas, assembled from wooden blocks, is distinguished by its relatively low cost and insignificant weight. It perfectly withstands the weight of the plastic structure. The only drawback of wood is its ability to actively absorb moisture from environment, which leads to its deformation during operation. Based on these features, this material It is not recommended to use in very humid areas. However, it is quite acceptable to assemble wooden sheathing in a residential area where it is installed ventilation duct and there is sufficient air exchange.

Example wooden frame in the bathroom

Wooden structure infection often strikes mold fungi, and not infrequently it becomes a place of residence for all kinds of bugs. To minimize the likelihood of unpleasant consequences, the wood is pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial compounds. In addition, today there are many products on the market with a hydrophobic effect; after coating, the wood loses its ability to absorb moisture.

If you want to maximize the service life of a wood structure, do not neglect and treat individual elements with special preserving impregnations.

To make installation easier, mark the wooden blocks location of the screws, and drill them with a wood drill.
IN concrete base Drill holes for the dowel using countersunk nails.
Align the holes in the slats and the base of the walls, and attach with hardware.
In case of attachment to wooden base use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm.

Features of installation of galvanized profile lathing

Galvanized profile frame

Lathing made of galvanized profiles is installed extremely rarely; this is largely due to significant financial costs. However, in cases where there is a need to omit ceiling, it is the metal frame that is assembled.

When purchasing metal profiles, pay attention to their markings. Depending on their purpose, they are ceiling-mounted, rack-mounted, or guide-mounted.

To mount the frame on the ceiling, use UD profile guides, which are placed around the perimeter of the room, securing them with their back to the rough base. After installation, the frames are inserted into the grooves of the CD profile.

When the profile is attached directly to the rough base, self-tapping screws or dowel nails are used. If there is a need to maintain a gap between them, use U-shaped hangers or anchors.

If for installation plasterboard ceilings If it is necessary to install a cellular frame, then a rack frame is sufficient for fastening PVC panels.

Plastic frame

Wood and metal are not the only materials used for assembling sheathing. Widely in demand in recent years use PVC guides. Such structures are durable, not affected by high humidity and corrosion, easy to install, and have a low weight.

Plastic profiles are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws or dowels with nails. But the panels are fixed with special clamps, reducing assembly time to a minimum and significantly saving time.

Instead of a conclusion

Despite the apparent complexity, installation of sheathing under plastic panels can be done independently with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. You just need to be patient and have a standard set of tools in your arsenal. The most important thing in this work is to make an accurate calculation of the required materials and assemble the structure in a single plane, observing right angles. We hope that after reading the material, you were able to get an answer to the question of how to make your own sheathing for installing plastic panels.

In addition to commercial and residential premises, lathing makes it possible to attach panels in rooms with high humidity, in places with temperature fluctuations and in unheated rooms. It is not subject to deformation and can be used reusably, as there is no damage left on it.

In practice, it became clear that wood is not the best material for sheathing. Since the joints between the PVC panels are almost invisible, any gap will become very noticeable when the frame is deformed.

Differences between plastic and wooden sheathing:

allows for quick installation; panels are snapped onto the rail with clips;
resistance to dampness, mold and fungi do not form;
can be used as a cable channel for wiring;
fireproof.

Creating a sheathing - preparatory instructions

In order to make the sheathing, you need to follow some tips.

It is necessary to maintain the distance between the slats. Ideally it should be 30 cm, but not more than 50 cm.
The slats must be installed perpendicular to the plastic panels. If the panel will be mounted vertically, then the bar must be positioned horizontally, and vice versa.
It should be placed not only at the beginning and end of the working surface, but also around window and door openings.

To install the frame, there is no need for preliminary surface preparation. To make a sheathing for PVC panels, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials: an electric drill, a screwdriver or a screwdriver, a construction level (for leveling the slats in vertical and horizontal planes), a hacksaw, a plumb line, a square, a miter box, and a tape measure.

Material should be next: straight wooden slats or timber 30x10 (for interior work) and 30x20 (for facade work), metal profiles or special PVC profiles, drill with a tip to match the diameter of the dowel, screws, chalk (for marking).

Lathing for PVC panels - let's get to work

Installation of the frame for fastening the panels is the most critical stage of the work. The type of room will depend on the straightness and correctness load-bearing structures. If wooden slats are used, they should be chosen without knots, the straightest ones, and the humidity should be no more than 18%.

If there is high humidity in the room, then small cuts need to be made in the slats so that air can circulate. After everything is prepared, you can begin marking the perimeter. It should be performed in the same way as for another type of frame, starting from the most protruding point.

A lot of materials for interior decoration, which are presented in assortment construction stores, involve their installation on a pre-prepared sheathing. If you don’t want to invite a construction crew, then do the lathing yourself. It's not really complex process However, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of lathing, without which the final result of the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

Exists a whole series possible constructions of the sheathing and options for how to make it for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the sheathing, and then we will consider various ways its construction with indications of all the nuances.

Selecting material for interior sheathing

wood and metal sheathing

According to the type of material it can be formed:

Wooden sheathing;
Made from galvanized profile;
Plastic sheathing.

Metal

IN modern construction The main material for forming lathing for interior work is most often a galvanized profile, which was originally invented for fastening drywall. In this case, a U-shaped profile with various sizes and shape for various target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. The end of the CD profile is inserted into it, from which the sheathing actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for forming partitions and walls, so sheathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a whole range of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and connecting them, which greatly facilitates the assembly of sheathing of any complexity and shape.

Tree

A time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since average cost lathing made of wood is significantly lower than the same one made of galvanized profile. Timber and boards with dimensions varying within 25-50 mm are used. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum acceptable size that will allow you to securely fasten the cladding material and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly pliable material from which you can construct a sheathing for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for sheathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced by using special impregnations. However, risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden sheathing using ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for sheathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods for installing them can vary dramatically. The specifics of their installation should be clarified in the manufacturer's instructions.

General structure of the lathing

To create a sheathing in general case it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. It is brought to the required level. After this, the intermediate elements are placed at a distance necessary to secure the sheathing elements. This is very important point, in which errors are not allowed.

To secure plasterboard sheets the distance of the sheathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is calculated from the middle of one crossbar to the middle of the other. Only in this case will it be possible to properly fasten the sheets end to end.

For PVC sheathing, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the sheathing in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

In case it happens, the distance between the sheathing bars is sufficient to accommodate it. For example, when using strips or slabs mineral wool the distance should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the insulator. This will allow you to pack it tightly without gaps.

Taking into account these construction features, you can already decide on the required amount of base material and determine how much the sheathing costs.

If necessary, at the stage of forming the sheathing, distribution is carried out hidden wiring, various communications and elements additional equipment, such as warm floors, insulation, etc. In the case of forming a sheathing with a counter-lattice, the frame around the perimeter should be made at a certain height for both layers of timber.

Choosing the direction of the sheathing

There are several types of lathing:

vertical
horizontal
with counter-lattice

Choose suitable option of the first two is possible only by deciding on the location of the elements finishing material. The counter-lattice is formed, firstly, to ensure normal ventilation of the space under the cladding, and secondly, to position the thermal insulation layer. It is applicable only when wooden sheathing is installed.

For plasterboard sheets, the lathing should be placed vertically, with the condition of the same direction for the drywall sheets themselves. The rule here is that the sheet must be fastened evenly along its entire length. Otherwise, when using transverse lathing, you will have to fill it too thickly, which will significantly affect the cost of the entire structure.

For mounting various types materials consisting of individual panels or strips, such as PVC panels, lining or wooden slats, aluminum panels etc., used transverse lathing. This means that when the material elements are arranged horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

If necessary, form counter-lattice The outer layer of the sheathing is mounted according to the rules already described, and the bottom layer, which is directly attached to the base, is positioned perpendicularly.

Horizontal (transverse) lathing and counter lathing using the example of a roof. When working indoors, a counter-lattice is rarely required.

Type 1: wooden beam sheathing

Wooden beams and boards are indispensable in the case of, and are also suitable for lathing walls.

The following tools will be required for the work:

saw;

jigsaw (preferably);

impact drill;

screwdriver, screwdriver;

chisel;

mallet, hammer;

tape measure, level, plumb lines, construction corner.

The materials required are directly the timber from which the sheathing is installed, a board for making substrates, a board for the frame, screws and dowels for mounting the timber to the base.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the place for installing the outer elements of the sheathing (frame). This is especially important in cases where only part of the surface will be occupied for finishing. The location of the beams or boards along the perimeter is especially carefully measured using a level and plumb lines, because subsequent elements can be oriented along the frame.

If the surface on which the sheathing is made is uneven, you will have to use backings for some of the beams or parts thereof so that the outer edges of the sheathing form a single plane in the level. For example, you can sharpen the beams or comb the base. The choice of option depends on the nature of the irregularities. If they are present throughout the wall or floor, then it is better to use substrates. To determine the distance at which the beams will be separated from the wall, you should determine the highest point on the surface and from there calculate the position of the frame beams. In this case, it is best to take another 2-3 mm margin for unevenness of the beams themselves, which will be used in the sheathing.

Having determined the direction of the first beam of the frame, and having calculated the required size of the substrates that are needed, you can secure it with dowels and screws. The timber is secured with screws every 20-25 cm.

After the first beam, the rest are installed, which will form the perimeter of the sheathing. Everything is done with the derivation of a common plane and level. Window and door openings, as well as protruding parts of the walls, are lined around the perimeter with beams in order to securely fasten the edges of the cladding elements along their border.

Scheme of sheathing a wall on a balcony for cladding with clapboard or panels
After this, you can begin to install the intermediate beams. There is no need to rigidly connect the intermediate beams to the frame elements, especially if you are not sure that the wood is properly dried. In the case of rigid fastening, due to thermal deformation or due to changes in humidity, the position of the sheathing elements may be lost, which will also affect appearance, and on the strength of the entire structure.
When using backings, you should secure the edges of the timber, checking the indications building level and plumb lines, and after that begin to secure in the middle, combing out the substrate of the required thickness or placing the required number of prepared pieces.

All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing should be treated protective compounds with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will protect the material from rotting, fungi, absorption of excess moisture and reduce the risk of fire.

Video: example of installing wooden sheathing under plastic panels

Type 2: metal lathing (made of galvanized profile)

The following tools will be required:

metal scissors;

screwdriver;

level, plumb;

tape measure, construction corner;

impact drill.

Most often, a galvanized profile is used when making sheathing for plasterboard, but it is also perfect for other sheathing materials. With the help of such a profile and all kinds of auxiliary fastenings, it is possible to sheath any surface. A galvanized profile is not suitable for forming sheathing on the floor; it is not strong enough for this. But the lathing on the ceiling is best and easiest to assemble from a profile, and not from a wooden beam.

In any case, all work begins with the installation of UD support profiles. They are fixed on the extreme sides perpendicular to the placement of the sheathing elements. All intermediate elements will be inserted with their ends inside this profile and attached to them. In addition to the two main guides, additional ones are installed parallel to the edges of window and door openings, as well as along the perimeter of protruding elements that will not be sheathed.

The supporting metal profiles must be securely held to the base. To do this, fastening dowels are placed every 15-25 cm. As in the case of wooden sheathing, underlays may be needed if the surface of the base is uneven. It is extremely important to correctly determine the height of the substrates, because if you make a mistake or miscalculate, then when fixing the profile it will bend. After this it is no longer possible to level it.
Method of metal wall lathing based on CD60 profile

The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides with their ends at the edges and secured with screws. Special screws for galvanized profiles with a drill tip are best suited for this purpose. To add rigidity to the profile and the entire structure, you can additionally use mounting hangers. They are mainly used to secure profiles to the ceiling, but they are also suitable for walls. The edges of the hangers are bent at 90 degrees and fixed in the places where the profile is installed. After installing the profile itself and securing it to the guides, the bent wings of the suspensions are screwed to it, cutting off their excess part, which protrudes above the profile. Before screwing, be sure to check the level of the entire profile, because the profile itself, although strong, still bends a little.

October 1, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Today I want to tell you how the ceiling sheathing should be installed correctly for frame finishing different materials. IN in this case such materials can be PVC panels, MDF, wooden lining or drywall.

In fact, any of the above claddings can be mounted on a similar device made according to the same principle and even the same dimensions.

So, everything is in order!

Installation of sheathing

Stage No. 1 - marking

Someone will notice that I missed such an important stage as preparation, that is, removing the old coating. However, in this case, this work is optional. It will be necessary to remove the old cladding only if it frankly does not hold on and falls off.

To install the sheathing on the ceiling, the instructions require adherence to certain parameters:

marking begins with a control line on the walls around the perimeter of the room - it marks the depth of the ceiling cavity;
but before you mark this depth, you should decide what kind of lighting you will have. And if these are built-in lamps, then you need to be guided by their dimensions;
So, if 40 mm of depth is enough for an LED device, then for the rest you need at least 70 mm. In any case, it will be better if you purchase lamps in advance and measure the length of the recessed part. Add 10 mm for heat extinguishing and get the depth of the ceiling cavity;
To mark a line around the perimeter, you first need to set marks in the corners using a water or laser level. Next, use a chockline (painting cord) to mark a control line along them;

Now you need to mark the protocol itself. If installation is subsequently carried out under drywall, then the distance between the lines (the centers of the profiles that will be installed later) should be exactly 50 cm ;
if it is PVC or MDF panels, or wooden lining, then the step can be increased by 10 cm;
after you have marked the control lines for the CD profiles, immediately mark the location. It is at this stage that it is most convenient to determine their location;
if a chandelier is installed on the ceiling, then use a chockline to beat off the diagonals, so you will get the center, which will be exactly at the intersection of these lines;
For suspended version you can immediately make a hole and install a dowel for the hook;
and if the chandelier will be attached using a console, then at this point determine the place to strengthen the frame.

Stage No. 2 - installation of UD and suspensions

The entire sheathing for plastic panels on the ceiling is supported by hangers and UD profiles, which are screwed around the perimeter. Some manufacturers produce UD profiles with holes every 30 cm, while others do not provide them.

However, they are very easy to make yourself, for this purpose;

mark an approximate line marked along the perimeter every 30 cm;
drill holes for the dowels in the wall directly through the profile, as shown in the photo above.

To fix UD in concrete or brick, use dowels with a diameter of 60 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long. If the walls have loose plaster, then the length of the screw increases to 90 mm (the dowel is the same). But if the walls are made of limestone or foam blocks, then 50 mm self-tapping screws without dowels at all are sufficient.

After the hooks have been screwed to the wall, you can proceed to fixing the hangers. Most often, perforated tape hangers are used for this, so we will talk about them (for deeper ceilings, wire hangers are used).

First, you just need to distribute them over the rough ceiling, screwing them in with screws and dowels. Please note that you need to screw them on yourself, and not use impact dowels.

Pay attention to the top photo, which shows two options for fixation - correct and incorrect, so do not make mistakes in such situations.

The distance between the hangers should be no more than 60-70 cm. But if the ceiling requires plasterboard finishing for cladding ceramic tiles, then the distance is naturally reduced to 40-50 cm, and profiles are installed more often.

When fixing the suspension, try to ensure that the oblong hole, which is in the center of the tape, lies on the control line exactly in the middle (this is what it was made for). Don’t rush to fold your ears down just yet—you’ll do this after you insert the CD profiles into the UD.

Stage No. 3 - installation of CD profiles

Now you need to cut the CD profiles to length and insert them into the UD. To do this, measure the distance from wall to wall and subtract 5 mm - this will be the appropriate length of the profile. Measure each CD, as there may be errors on the wall, and immediately insert it into the UD until you have assembled the entire sheathing.

If you look closely at the top photo, you will see a blue nylon thread stretched across the profiles. It is needed for leveling and is tensioned by screwing it with self-tapping screws (“fleas”) to the brackets.

But unfixed threads will sag and pull the thread, so you need to pull all the profiles a little higher than the level. To do this, simply bend the ears of the middle dewlap under each of them.

First, you should level the outer profiles relative to the perimeter; they should be half a millimeter higher than the thread, since touching will lead to a malfunction of the plane. Then gradually (you can start from anywhere) level the remaining threads, but also raise them half a millimeter above the thread so that they do not pull it back and knock down the level.

It is advisable to screw each ear of the suspension with two “fleas” - this way you will ensure the rigidity of the fastening and the frame will not rattle. That is, there will be no play in the profile in the bracket (when you hit the ceiling with your fist, the play causes a rattling sound).

Note. To assemble metal frames from galvanized profiles, small metal screws 9-11 mm long are used - in everyday life they are usually called fleas. Their tip can be in the form of a drill or a pointed cone.

Other options

Also, to cover the ceiling with plasterboard, a cellular sheathing can be used, as in the top photo - the cell size here is 60x60 cm (in the center of the profile). But this option is not popular among professional finishers:

firstly, the cell size does not fit the parameters of the ceiling gypsum board (1200×2500 mm);
and, secondly, more material will be needed here, therefore, the total price of the arrangement will be an order of magnitude higher.

Sometimes the room area is large, and the length of the CD, which can be either 3m or 4m, will not be enough. In such cases, the profiles are extended using special connecting inserts, as shown in the top photo.

But in such situations, a suspension is installed on both sides of the joint and the fixing “fleas” pass through the profile and the insert simultaneously.

In addition, the lathing under the PVC panels on the ceiling may not be metal, but wooden, as shown in the top photo. Here, in fact, a rail of any section can be used, but, as a rule, 20-25 mm with a width of 40-50 mm is used.

Also, the wooden sheathing can be leveled with stands, photo above. However, this requires a flat ceiling. In addition, this installation method takes more time.

Conclusion

Of course, for any finishing it is best to assemble the sheathing from a galvanized CD profile - it turns out durable and is not afraid of moisture, and the cost is not much higher than lumber.

All stages of installing the sheathing on the ceiling are shown more clearly in the video in this article. And I invite readers to discuss in the comments - ask questions and contribute fresh ideas!

October 1, 2016

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