For the finish to look attractive, it must be properly secured.
When considering the question of how to attach lining to a wall, most reviews recommend only one option for carrying out the work. We will analyze as many as 3 methods; you need to choose the one that is best suited to your conditions and will ensure maximum reliability. After reading this review, you will understand all the nuances and easily complete the work on your own.
Mounting methods
We will look at how to properly secure the lining to wooden frame different ways. Each of them has its pros and cons, so please read all the information below carefully.
Option 1 - using finishing nails
This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades; for this work we will need special nails with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nail fits into the bar; most often, products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the most cheap way fastenings
Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:
- The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides; in this case, the nail is driven in at an angle of 45 degrees and covered with the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;
- You can also fix elements through a tenon; below we show how to properly fasten the lining with nails in in this case. Here the nail is also covered by the next element, ensuring perfect appearance finishing;
- Having chosen the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements to the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for the deformation of the material due to temperature changes;
- The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top; anyway, the corner is covered with a plinth or other decorative element. On the other side, a nail is driven into the tenon or groove; this is done very carefully so as not to split the material or damage it. This way you can finish walls and ceilings quickly and reliably.
Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.
Option 2 – use of clamps
It is impossible to discuss the question of how to fasten a wooden paneling without mentioning the clamps, which are special staples that are placed on the tenon of the elements and secured with nails. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and imitation timber - No. 5. The products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack; carnations are included.
Instructions for doing the work yourself include the following steps:
- First, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each edge of the frame, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
- The location of the clamps when the elements are arranged vertically does not matter, but if the finishing is located horizontally, then they should be at the bottom;
- The working process is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which clamps are placed and secured with small nails. To make it easier to hammer them in, use a spacer.
Advice! If you want to ensure higher fastening strength, then instead of nails you can use self-tapping screws for fastening clamps; the 3x20 mm option is best suited.
Option 3 - use self-tapping screws
If you are thinking about how to fix the lining to the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is fraught with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.
The workflow in this case looks like this:
- In the groove connection of the lining, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees with a 3 mm thick drill;
- The element is attached to the sheathing, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the cap should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the joining, but at the same time you should not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.
The question is often asked about what to attach PVC lining to; in this case, all of the above options are suitable. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.
Lining is excellent universal material for final finishing ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.
What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.
But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.
Using instructions
Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the learning process of any task. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.
For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as additional visual material. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.
It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.
Stages of cladding
Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:
Execute preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnated with special compounds such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.
After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.
The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.
The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.
Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation of lining with your own hands makes the room seem more spacious.
In the resulting cells, when using timber, arrange thermal insulation boards. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.
The final stage is finishing wooden panels. The room takes on a finished look.
Technology correct installation lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.
The process goes in the following order:
- wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
- the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To make the panels even, make a bottom adjustment using a trim piece wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.
Differences in fasteners and their characteristics
For fixation use fasteners. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.
Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. Staples require use mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.
Technique for aligning panels
The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. Along the line of its joining with the corner they lay decorative plinth. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out to be a very beautiful appearance.
A similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.
The procedure for covering the ceiling
Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.
Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.
Photo of lining installation
Lining is a popular finishing material, which consists of equivalent profiles with spikes and special grooves for durable fastening. It is made of wood or plastic and has a smooth surface.
Recently, lining has become widespread, because with its help you can sheathe almost any surface, achieving ideal smoothness. In addition, the material has a lot of other significant advantages:
- Easy to install. Even a person who does not have any construction experience can cope with the installation of this material.
- Low price. Compared to many other materials, it is inexpensive.
- Environmental friendliness. Wooden lining is environmentally friendly pure material, which is made from wood with high decorative properties. Throughout its entire service life, it retains the properties inherent in wood.
- Natural beauty, pleasant smell.
- Good performance characteristics.
- Large selection of colors and shapes. You can choose the lining for any room, be it living room or a barn.
- With the help of this facing material You can regulate the indoor humidity.
Preparation for installation of lining
Before installing the lining, preparatory work should be carried out, which concerns not only the preparation of the walls, but also the material itself. Before use, the lining must be sanded and carefully checked for any defects. After this, the lamellas are necessarily treated with an antiseptic and a primer, which will protect the material from rotting and make it less fire hazardous.
All sides of the material need to be processed, including the grooves. If the lining is made of resinous rocks, then it may be necessary to de-resin. To do this, apply acetone to the discharge areas and then wipe the surface.
If critical defects were found on any lamellas, they should be set aside. For minor defects, such as a fallen knot, small crack or pothole, the damaged areas are treated with putty. It is very important that before installation the lining “gains the temperature” of the room in which it will be mounted. To do this, you need to put it in this very room for some time. If it will be used for outdoor work, then nothing needs to be done.
In addition to processing the material itself, you need to prepare the surface on which it will be attached. The lining does not require preliminary leveling of the walls with putty or plaster. You just need to make and install a simple frame structure, to which the slats will be attached. To create such a structure, you can use ordinary rectangular bars 20x40 millimeters or 15x30 millimeters, depending on the curvature of the walls. It is important to remember that when installing the lining horizontally, the sheathing slats must be mounted vertically. And with vertical - horizontal.
First, the sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the surface and in the corners. In this case, there should be two slats for each corner. After this, installation is carried out around doors and windows, if they are on the surface that is being sheathed. And after all this, the intermediate slats are attached. It is extremely important to check all slats with a plumb line and level. The more accurately and evenly the lathing is set, the easier and faster the installation of the lining will be. If you do not keep track of the level, then at subsequent stages of work this can lead to significant problems.
How and with what to secure the lining
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you should install the insulation and waterproofing, and also choose the method of fastening the material. The lamellas can be attached to the ceiling, wall and lathing. What exactly to fasten depends, first of all, on the customer himself and his preferences. There are several possible options:
- With nails. Nails firmly and reliably fix the lining to the sheathing. But, if eurolining can be nailed strictly perpendicularly, then it is recommended to nail the usual one only at an angle, otherwise the material may crack. In this case, the length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella. It is recommended to use fastening with nails if used lining is used.
- Self-tapping screws. Basically, self-tapping screws are used for through fastening the lining to the sheathing. They are quite rarely used for hidden fastening. Self-tapping screws are best suited for fastening if there is always high level humidity.
- Kleimers. It is necessary to use clamps if in the future you plan to carefully disassemble the slats without damaging them. They are also used for hidden fastening, making the mounted lining more aesthetic and neat.
- With staples. This fastening method requires a special construction stapler (gun) capable of piercing thick wood. In addition, not all types of wood can be pierced using this tool. But using staples also has its advantages. With their help you can carry out installation very quickly.
- Combined method. This method of fastening involves the use of clamps or nails and self-tapping screws to fasten the slats from the bottom and top.
Which mounting method to choose depends both on certain factors and on the preferences of the customer himself.
Horizontal installation of lining: instructions
Horizontal installation of lining is the simplest. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide all the flaws on the surface of the walls. This type of fastening is mainly used for exterior finishing buildings, in this case it is recommended to fasten the lining with the grooves down so that water does not flow into them, and over time the walls do not begin to swell at the junction of the lamellas.
Installation should start from the corner. Wherein Special attention you need to pay attention to the first lamella, because it will set the main direction of the work. The straighter the first board is fixed, the easier the installation process will be. The first lamella is attached only at one end, after which the second side is set strictly horizontally using a level. Only when the board is level can it be secured.
It will take a little effort to get the next board into the groove. Typically, a rubber hammer is used for this. If it is not there, then you can use the so-called padding (trimmed lining). It is through the padding that blows should be carefully applied in order not to damage the front side of the material.
It very rarely happens that the width of all lamellas perfectly matches the height of the wall. Most often, you have to trim the last board along its entire length, and this must be done extremely carefully, even if the edges are covered with decorative elements. To make the wall look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is better to use self-tapping screws to attach the outer slats, onto which you can then put wooden plugs, or special finishing nails without a head.
Vertical installation of lining: instructions
Vertical clapboard cladding is the most common method of fastening. First of all, vertical mounting helps make the ceilings in the room visually higher. Also, with this method of fastening, the grooves are reliably protected from water flowing into them, which, in turn, has a positive effect on the service life of the material.
The topmost board should be secured first. Just as with horizontal fastening, it is very important to correctly align the first lamella. However, in this case we are interested in its vertical. Therefore, first only one edge of the board is attached, then the correct level is set, and after that the next lamella is mounted. This avoids distortion. Otherwise, installation is carried out in the same way as with the horizontal fastening method.
There are other methods of fastening: herringbone, diagonal, combined. But they are quite complex, so it will be extremely difficult for a person who does not have construction experience to carry out such an installation.
You should know that not all lining allows you to choose the installation method. There are lamellas that are attached strictly horizontally. Therefore, before purchasing a lining, it is better to consult and find out whether it is attached in any way or in a specific way.
Installation of lining on the ceiling
To install the lining on the ceiling, you first, of course, need to make a frame. It can be wooden or made from metal profile. To install the frame, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and measure down from it 5-7 centimeters. After this, use a water level to mark off all the corners of the room from this point. Next, along these points, draw a contour along which the frame will be placed.
When the frame is made, you can begin installing the lining. To do this, you need to cut the strips to the required size. They should be about 5 millimeters less than the length of the room; this is necessary in order to leave a small gap between the boards and the wall. This will help protect the ceiling from unpleasant consequences. thermal expansion. If the walls are not made perfectly parallel, then it is better to cut the slats according to the fact, because at different ends of the room their length may differ slightly.
In general, installing lining on the ceiling is no different from wall mounting. The only thing is that it will be quite difficult to cope with it yourself, since it is inconvenient for one person to set the board at the desired angle, while holding it and fastening it. Most likely, you won’t be able to do it without an assistant.
The cost of installing the lining
The cost of the lining depends, first of all, on the material itself (plastic or wood, type of wood, quality of workmanship). Today the price for square meter starts from 3-4 dollars and goes up to 25-30 dollars. In addition, do not forget that you will have to buy not only the lining itself, but also bars for sheathing, plinths, decorative elements and various consumables.
If we talk about the work itself, it’s good construction firm will carry out the simplest installation of lining on straight walls for 3-4 dollars per square meter, excluding the installation of baseboards, insulation, antiseptic and others additional work. However, installation is not something complicated, so many people prefer to do it themselves, saving a lot of money. In general, lining is rightfully considered one of the best finishing materials in terms of price/quality ratio.
Features of lining installation
The main feature of installing lining with your own hands is the correct placement of the first board. If it is not set perfectly straight, then all subsequent slats will be installed crookedly, and in the future this will result in big problems. In order for beginners to insure themselves against such troubles, it is recommended to fasten the lining with clamps. If something happens, they can be easily removed, dismantled, rearranged the slats and re-attached.
More than half of the owners country houses prefer to produce interior decoration walls using lining. And this is not surprising: lining is an excellent material that gives the home an attractive appearance. In addition, it is quite easy to install, and if necessary, you can do it yourself.
Finishing with clapboards indoors is a common way to decorate the interior country house cozy and practical.
Directions for laying lining
Today, manufacturers offer several types of lining. It can be wooden, MDF or plastic. Wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly type of finishing materials, giving the home coziness and comfort. In addition, wood always stands out in its appearance.
Horizontal clapboard finishing makes the room visually wider, but lower - therefore this method of laying clapboard should be used in large rooms.
When starting to work with this type of finishing, you first need to determine the direction along which the material will be attached. So, there are several features when choosing a direction:
- When the lining is mounted vertically, the room is visually smaller, but becomes taller.
- Horizontal mounting allows you to visually make the room wider, but lower.
- Laying the material at an angle (diagonally) avoids negative visual effects and looks more elegant, but requires greater financial costs and work skills.
When installing the material, if necessary, you can combine all three installation directions. This will give the house originality and individuality.
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Rules for fastening the lining
If the wall of the house is made of wood and has a flat and smooth surface, then the elements can be mounted directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall finishing to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use lathing.
When the direction is determined, you should purchase required material and tools. For vertical or horizontal mounting clapboards will be required:
Technologies of horizontal, diagonal and vertical laying the linings are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.
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Laying sheathing for fastening elements
The lathing is made of smooth, well-dried wooden slats with a cross-section of at least 40x20 mm. Before starting work, all slats must be treated with an antiseptic solution to avoid mold and rotting.
Work begins from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. In the corner, using a plumb line, the first rail is installed strictly vertically. The rail is attached to the wall plastic dowels and long screws with a pitch size of about 50 cm. When fastening, it is advisable to use wooden spacers.
In the opposite corner of the room, a second rail is mounted in a manner similar to that described. At the top and bottom of the wall, both slats are connected by two well-tensioned cords, which will subsequently serve as a guide for attaching horizontal slats at the top and bottom of the wall.
According to the position of the ropes, horizontal slats are mounted near the baseboard and under the ceiling. The next horizontal rail is attached 50 cm from the bottom one. You can determine the horizontality of the fastening either using a cord stretched between two corner slats, or a rule inserted between the horizontal slats. All subsequent horizontal battens of the sheathing are attached in the same way.
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Installation of lining elements
When the installation of the sheathing is completed on all walls, you can attach wooden lining. As a rule, work always starts from the left corner of the room. First of all, you need to prepare the material. To do this, you need to give each of its elements the required length. Using a jigsaw or fine-toothed saw, the lining is sawed off so that its length is 0.5-1 cm less than the height of the wall.
Then the first element is attached to the sheathing with a ridge in the corner. Fastening is usually done with finishing nails, driving them into the crest of the element to each batten of the sheathing. In addition, you can fasten the material with screws, but here you need to pay attention to their thickness: screws that are too thick can lead to cracking of the lining. Taking this into account, when using screws instead of nails, you must first drill holes for the fasteners with a drill.
Subsequent elements of the lining are mounted with a ridge into the grooves of the previous ones and attached to the sheathing by the lower flange of the groove. In this case, the ridges hide the caps of the fasteners. When fastening elements with nails, it is also necessary to take into account some features. For example, in order not to damage the front side of the finish, it is necessary to drive a nail into the ridge with a hammer only to the middle, then it is finished off with a blunt core or punch.
Instead of nails or screws, you can use special fasteners that do not damage the elements of the lining - clamps. Clamps are metal brackets that are put on the groove of the element and nailed to the sheathing. In this case, you can use small nails, screws, and staples from a construction stapler.
All elements of the material are mounted on the wall using similar methods. Occasionally it is necessary to check the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. The last element of the lining is cut to the required width and nailed to the corner batten.
The ridge is cut off from the element that will be attached first to the next wall: thus, it will cover the fastener caps on the last element of the previous wall. All finishing material is laid in a similar way.
This stage is only needed if wooden lining () is used. Then, before you start working with the material, you need to let it stand in the room for at least a day - the wood should dry out and become room temperature. Only after this can the lining be cut to the required length. If this time is not maintained, the boards may not fit tightly to each other.
For this purpose, take a film made of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt. The installation of this material is carried out on slats, which must first be nailed to the wall. The width of the slats is taken less than 3 cm, and they are nailed to the wall in increments of 1 meter. Small holes are punched at the bottom and top of the vapor barrier to improve ventilation.
Important! This stage is not strictly necessary, but is highly desirable for premises exposed to high humidity from the street side.
How to make sheathing for lining
Using a screwdriver, we install slats with a cross section of 20×40 mm horizontally in increments of 40-50 cm, regularly checking with a level whether they are installed correctly. Using slats allows you to level the wall (so that the boards fit comfortably), as well as create a gap between the wall and the lining, which is needed to create ventilation.
If the wall is uneven, then you need to put something under the sheathing (or take a thicker sheathing). The mounting wedge, a piece of wooden beam or plywood. The sheathing is secured with long-length self-tapping screws and dowel nails. The bottom slats are 5 cm from the floor, since the bottom will be attached floor plinth, and the top ones - the same amount from the ceiling.
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Installation of the sheathing should also be done around openings, windows and doors. It is worth noting that the battens are made of plastic and metal. More information about installing the sheathing can be found here:
Combination of sheathing and vapor barrier
If a vapor barrier was not used, then the sheathing is installed directly to the wall.
If it was used, then the fastening of the sheathing slats depends on how exactly the vapor barrier was attached: if the slats on which the vapor barrier was attached were vertically fixed, then the sheathing slats should be fastened horizontally and vice versa. The sheathing is fastened to the slats on which the vapor barrier is located using long self-tapping screws.
Insulation is placed in the resulting space. It is usually used as insulation mineral wool. To prevent the insulation from sagging over time under the influence of moisture, it is advisable to secure it with polypropylene twine, which is usually attached to wooden slats using a construction stapler.
You can also install another layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation, which should be attached with the rough side to the insulation. This is not necessary, but it is highly advisable for a room whose walls may be exposed to moisture. Sometimes (especially when covering the outer part of buildings with clapboard), another sheathing is installed on top of the insulation.
The sheathing should be located both around window and doorways. You can also use plastic or metal sheathing.
Advice! If the room is warm enough, then installing insulation is not necessary. When using MDF or plastic lining Often, insulation is not taken at all; communications are placed in the space between the sheathing and the lining.
Installation of the first wooden lining
The first lining is fastened to the wall vertically from the corner of the room: first, a hole is made with a thin drill, and then secured with self-tapping screws along the entire height.
Info! If a wooden block-house lining is attached, then the installation of the first lining begins horizontally from the top of the room, and such lining must be constantly leveled to a stretched line or a horizontal level.
If a plastic lining is attached, then the first lining is fastened together with the molding (plastic strip).
It is worth noting that plastic PVC The lining differs from the well-known PVC panels in the absence of a seam when connecting (PVC panels are sometimes called seamless polymer lining). Therefore, PVC lining is attached to the wall in almost the same way as PVC panels are attached, except that each plastic piece is stapled to the sheathing.
Methods of fastening and how to fasten the lining
There are several options for how to properly fasten the lining: using clamps, self-tapping screws or nails. Best option(albeit longer and more expensive) - installation using clamps. Because in this case, the surface of the lining does not deteriorate, and, if necessary, it can be dismantled without damage.
How to attach lining to clamps
Into the groove installed lining a clamp is installed. It is pushed into the groove of the lining with a hammer and then nails are driven into the holes of the clamp.
This clamp fastening of the lining is quite strong. Installation of the next one will be carried out in the same way: a new one is inserted into the groove of the fixed lining, carefully hammered in (so that there are no gaps between the boards) and again secured with clamps.
How to nail lining with nails or self-tapping screws
The fastening method using nails or self-tapping screws, unlike the previous one, “injures” the material.
Nailing the lining with finishing nails(with a small cap) can go from the front of the board obliquely from the longitudinal tongue (but not in the middle, otherwise cracking may occur).
This method has one more disadvantage - nails or screws will be visible on the front surface.
You can nail the ridge of the lining board if it comes with an offset profile. In this case, each subsequent board will cover the attachment point and it will not be visible.
Important! Regularly check with a level that the lining is installed level. There is no need to fit the boards very tightly together, otherwise they may swell when exposed to moisture and move away from the wall.
Installation of fittings
After the lining is installed, you need to close the edges. A plinth or fillet is best suited for this. This element is fastened to the wall using small nails.
If plastic lining was used, then the fittings sit on glue.
Lining surface treatment
This stage only concerns wooden lining since it must be coated with a special compound that protects against insects and moisture. For this purpose, antiseptics, bio-moisture protective compounds are used, and sometimes flame retardants are used - a composition that reduces the likelihood of ignition. With the help of the coating you can give different shades (varnish is used for this), and it must be updated every few years.
Features of fixing lining to the ceiling
If the frame on which the lining will be attached is wooden, then creating such a frame is almost the same as lathing on a wall. In this case, the distance between the slats of such a frame can be made slightly larger.
If the frame is metal, then instead of lathing, more a complex system hangers on which the guide profile will be attached. Weight Limit In this case, the design of such a ceiling can be increased by a large number of suspensions.
As you have already seen, installing the lining with your own hands is a completely feasible task, which can be completed with competent preparation and ours step by step instructions every. To conclude the review, watch the video. Good luck!
Differences between lining and eurolining
- Eurolining has the best quality wood
- Has a more complex profile
- Eurolining has a deeper tongue-and-groove fastening
- Has ventilation channels
- More expensive than regular lining
The process of attaching eurolining does not differ from covering it with ordinary lining, even though eurolining has higher requirements for board moisture and the quality of surface treatment, so pay special attention to this.
How to attach lining video
Wall decoration with clapboard
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining - video
How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse
Wall decoration with clapboard is possible as standard in wooden house, V ordinary apartment, on the balcony, as well as in the bathhouse. Covering the steam room with clapboard is perhaps the best and most affordable solution. Installing lining in a bathhouse has its own distinctive features. The best wood for a steam room is ash, oak, birch, aspen, pine, spruce, cedar or larch. Before clapboarding a bathhouse, you need to treat it with special antifungal agents(antiseptics) twice.
The process of attaching the lining to the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse does not differ from the standard one; you can nail the lining to nails or self-tapping screws, or attach it to clamps.
Important! After laying in a bathhouse, the lining cannot be coated with varnishes and paints.
You will find useful tips for laying lining in a steam room in this video:
