Renovating a bathroom is complicated by the presence of a large number of plumbing communications. In order for the room to acquire a finished and neat look, pipes for hot and cold water It is recommended to hide it. You can use a pipe box made of plasterboard or plastic for this purpose. The box will prevent dust and dirt from accumulating on the pipes and carefully closes them.
Before starting installation of the box, it is necessary to consider the structure of the box, taking into account the fact that access to the pipes may be required.
In case of breakage, leakage and the need to replace pipes, the box should not interfere, and access to the pipes did not require complete dismantling of the structure.
If you install the box yourself, then you need to remember the main stages of work, which will significantly improve the quality of the product and allow the structure to be durable. The basis of the frame is chosen durable material, as a rule, this is a rail or profile made of aluminum. Before making the frame, measurements of communications that need to be hidden and calculations are carried out.
After the calculations, you can proceed directly to assembling the frame.
The slats are fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws; you can first attach wooden beams to the junction with the wall.
After the frame is assembled and installed, you can begin cladding. There are several cladding options. It is advisable to make the final finishing from the same material as the walls in the bathroom, however, there may be other options at the discretion of the owner.
The most popular for cladding is plasterboard, since this material can be used even by beginners. Its surface is ready for decorative finishing with any material.
Procedure:
- Before the material is cut, measurements and calculations are made.
- After this, installation to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws.
- After fastening, all seams are rubbed with a special putty.
- Next comes the final decorative finishing.
Consideration must be given to what materials are used and whether additional coverage on drywall. The joint with the wall is covered with a decorative plinth.
Cladding with polystyrene panels does not require a frame. These panels have special legs that can be used to adjust the required dimensions. And the panels are connected with glue.
Ceramic tiles are popular due to their durability and moisture resistance, and they are very easy to clean. The lining of the box is carried out in advance installed box from plasterboard.
Installing a box in the bathroom
The choice of material for the box is not of fundamental importance.
You can make a box in the bathroom with your own hands, and even a beginner can do this kind of work. It is important to make calculations in advance and prepare the necessary material. The main condition that must be met when independent work, the lined box should not touch the pipes.
There are several options for box design:
- Plastic. Plastic panels are gaining popularity due to their low price, but it’s worth purchasing extra to get the job done wooden blocks, self-tapping screws, profiles, baseboards. The bars are attached to the wall using pre-prepared markings with self-tapping screws. It is important to secure the bars in the center of the structure. The profile and baseboards are fastened with a special construction stapler, and at the end they are inserted one by one into the grooves that are in the panels. No decorative finishing is needed.
- Plasterboard. Plasterboard slabs are installed on a metal frame with self-tapping screws. Next, decorative finishing is carried out.
- Closet. The box will hide the pipes, but will take some time usable space and, in order not to lose it, you can build a structure in the form of a cabinet.
Drywall can be used as a material for the cabinet. Installed inside required quantity shelves. Cabinet doors can be ordered separately; they can be made of mirror.
Tips: how to make a pipe box with your own hands
Before laying new pipes, it is necessary to remember that all leaks or problems occur at the joints, so the pipes are laid as straight as possible, with a minimum of joints.
If the pipes are not replaced, it is worth conducting diagnostics for problem areas.
Metal threaded connections and welded ones can be closed without fear; leaks of such connections are extremely rare. If the connection has a thread in the duct design, it is recommended to provide access to this place. It is also worth making free access to the meter and ventilation holes.
Before you start:
- It is necessary to take all necessary measurements and make markings.
- Consider how access to certain areas will be provided.
- It is recommended to draw a drawing so that the entire future structure can be clearly seen, because this way you can work out all the nuances even before starting work.
- According to the calculations, the material is prepared in the required quantity.
The gap between the pipes and the box must be at least 3 cm.
Using a building level, the box is marked on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling, and only then marked on the walls.
It is recommended to use a metal profile to install the frame, because due to constant humidity in the bathroom, wooden blocks quickly deform. When creating a frame, the profile is mounted with screws, first to the wall, then to the formative front edge on the ceiling and on the floor.
A very long frame structure will require jumpers; it is recommended to use them at a distance of no more than 1 m from each other.
During the sheathing process, the material must be cut as little as possible so that minimum quantity seams. The sheathing begins from the sides; under no circumstances should the sheets of material interfere with the profile. To access communications, holes with doors are left inside. Next, finishing is carried out.
What is good about a plastic pipe box?
Boxes made of plastic or plasterboard perform the same function and have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Distinctive features of the plastic box:
- Unlike a plasterboard box, a plastic one can be disassembled without fear of damaging the material. In the event of a leak, this property will be very useful, because after fixing the problem, the box can simply be put back together.
- Plastic panels themselves are decorative element, therefore, there is no need to include additional costs for finishing in the repair estimate, unlike drywall.
- Plastic panels are easily replaced one with another, and are resistant to deformation, flexible and non-fragile, like drywall, especially if it is covered ceramic tiles.
- Easy to install yourself, the installation process is quick and does not require specific tools. And virtually no construction waste is generated during operation.
- The resulting low overall cost of the box, as well as each panel in particular.
Assembling a pipe box in the bathroom (video)
Plastic panels are thin, do not take up much usable area from the already small bath area. At the same time, the design has increased strength. The range of panels allows you to choose a material to suit every taste.
A plumbing box (in other cases it is called a plumbing cabinet) is used in most panel and brick series modern houses(since the 70s).
He is also always present in monolithic houses, however, in fact, in most cases it is not there and the owner is asked to build it according to the “bricks” laid out on the floor of the room.
It is an enclosing structure (with an access hatch) for hot and cold water supply risers, as well as a sewer riser.
The main information that the customer should have regarding the installation of a plumbing box is the understanding that the area inside the box refers to the common area of the house and is not included in the area of the apartment.
Based on this, the only thing that is possible during repairs is to remove the old plumbing box and build a new one along its border. modern materials with the obligatory installation of a hatch for access to utilities.
Materials used:
- Moisture-resistant plasterboard with ceramic tile lining;
- Thin tongue-and-groove blocks;
Measures for remodeling the plumbing duct:
- Dismantling the plumbing box (building a new one) with a subsequent increase in the original dimensions.
Application:
In addition to its direct purpose (fencing water supply risers), the plumbing box is often used as a structure for embedding a toilet installation.
Also, an enlarged sanitary cabinet can be used to accommodate an electric boiler. for the purpose of heating water during the summer shutdown of hot water supply.
What are access hatches and why are they needed:
Plumbing duct access hatches come in a variety of shapes.
The main thing is that the hatch must have sufficient dimensions to inspect the condition of risers, taps and water supply meters, as well as carry out routine repairs of utility risers. Above we provided a link to an article about access hatches.
Touching the plumbing box entails work on new waterproofing of the bathroom floor. Since on plumbing box, as on the walls in the bathroom, waterproofing must be installed, which is necessary as protection against possible leaks between floors. It is installed on the plumbing box, as well as on the walls in the bathroom to a height of 15-20 cm.
In new monolithic houses, the developer shifts the work of installing plumbing ducts to the owner (but does not forget to mark them with a dotted line on the BTI plan as completed). As a result, future owners will have to build a plumbing box in the dimensions marked on the floor plan with the installation of an access hatch. And if this box is not “physically” present when the apartment is rented out, this does not mean that it can not be built, or built in smaller dimensions, it just means that the developer saved on materials and gave this “honorable” responsibility to the owner himself
In the end, we will answer the main question that worries the owners:
Are there still cases in which a plumbing box can be partially dismantled?
- Eat.
But it's quite difficult. As we have already mentioned, the plumbing duct belongs to the common area of the house, which can be affected if technically possible, subject to the consent of 2/3 of the residents of the house.
This means that if you have a large plumbing box, and engineering communications“huddled” somewhere in a corner, then theoretically it can be reduced in size. “Only” it is necessary to collect the signatures of 2/3 of the residents of the house that they are not against this event, to back it up with a seal management company and submit the protocol along with the design documentation for consideration to the housing inspectorate.
Under this condition, she will agree to dismantle and partially dismantle the plumbing duct. Of course, in words the path is clear and seemingly simple, but in practice, it’s not that it’s difficult to get the consent of 2/3 of the house owners, it’s difficult “in principle” to find them, which leads to the fact that very few people dare to start this path.
From practice: One of our cases involved dismantling a plumbing duct.
Initial data - new building, monolith, apartment on the middle floor. The customer’s BTI floor plan shows a plumbing box, in a strange place and what’s most strange it is shown then it is shown , but in it NO engineering communications.
It’s just that on the BTI plan there is a square that appeared for no apparent reason, in an illogical place, and it needs to be fenced off with a square simply so that this area does not become part of the area of the apartment (after all, this is a common building area).
The customer, of course, really did not want to do this - after all, in his new monolith, the design solution was so well thought out, and this square did not fit into it at all, it was not taken into account, and we well understood that it really did not belong there.
An "investigation" has begun. It turned out that the new building consists of 8 identical sections. And in one of the sections (not this one), the developer provided another communications riser in this very place. When BTI measured the area at the end, it was lazy, measured only one of the sections (namely the section with the box) and “applied and projected” this plan onto the other sections, without even going in and measuring them (the house looks the same). (But this was said later and in a whisper).
Officially, they categorically refused to admit this mistake. As a result, the seven remaining sections turned out to be potential “violators”, because none of the owners were eager to allocate, for some unknown reason, in an unknown place, “out of the blue” square meter apartments.
Of course, it was possible to “fight” to bring up the developer’s archives, go around, prove it, but it would take a month or two or three, renovations could not be started without permission, and the owner was already living in his thoughts in the renovated apartment, and the mortgage was “dripping” and it seemed to us easier way working with the management company. Moreover, she turned out to be surprisingly sane and understood the absurdity of the situation.
The management company engineer called the owners, they came and each owner allowed all other owners to dismantle the box. This paper remained with the management company to issue copies to others, and we submitted ours to the housing inspection along with the kit project documentation and received permission for redevelopment.
A typical example of how owners touch plumbing ducts:
Below we show an example of touching the plumbing duct of one of our recent customers:
At the beginning, we did not have clear initial data, that is, BTI documents, there was only a photo, but when looking at the apartment after the redevelopment (right photo in the top row), an initial assumption appeared that not everything was “smooth”.
A little later, the customer sent us a photo before the renovation (the left photo is an apartment “in concrete”) and BTI documents. And after analyzing these documents, everything immediately became clear.
In general, based on 95 percent of our experience, we already assumed that something similar would happen, but it was not superfluous to be confirmed.
If we look at the left photo, we will see that the boundaries of the plumbing box are “clearly” laid out in “bricks” along the floor. That is, they are clearly defined and the dimensions of the box cannot be changed.
And as we already know, a plumbing box is just a “cabinet with a door” and cannot be further “tuned”.
In this case, the customer:
not only reduced the size of the box, we reflected this in the bottom picture with the BTI plan,
so I built it into the top of the box open shelves
, and also at the bottom safe between the pipes.
A combined photo, before and after renovation, in which something is placed in proportion.
Below on the BTI plans you can see how the box looked before the redevelopment, and how it looked after the redevelopment.
In the apartment toilet multi-storey building riser pipes for sewerage and water supply pass through. Their appearance usually spoils the interior, so it is important to successfully hide them. Next we will look at how to build a box for pipes from plasterboard, and what effective methods installation of the frame and exterior finishing exist.
Advantages
Riser pipes usually run along all floors; from them, each apartment has sewer and water supply outlets to the bathroom. They do not look very aesthetically pleasing, in addition, they serve as a source of additional noise when draining, and condensation can accumulate on them. In any case, all apartment owners who care about interior. New houses often already have some kind of partition when they are handed over, but its quality usually leaves much to be desired, so the most good option- make it strong and beautiful box in the toilet with your own hands.
The pipe box in a combined or separate bathroom should not be completely closed, since water meters are usually located in this place; in addition, you must always have access to the riser in case of leaks. That's why homemade options can be removable or with a neat built-in door.
Making a pipe box from plasterboard is very effective because it is a lightweight, relatively cheap and easy to process material. It is attached to a frame made of metal profiles for screws or self-tapping screws for metal. For such a wet room as a bathroom, it is worth taking moisture-resistant types of drywall. The advantage of this material also lies in the fact that after installation it can be decorated decoratively by any means: putty, moisture-resistant paint, ceramic tiles, PVC panels. They often try to finish a plasterboard box in the same style as the walls, this results in the most good interior toilet.
Metal frame And plasterboard partitions a competent owner can do it in almost one day. To do this you will need a minimum of materials and a small set of tools.
Options
Depending on the location of the riser pipes in the bathroom, such a box can be:
- continuous partition;
- separate closet in the corner;
- protruding from the wall.
The first option is relevant when all communications in the toilet are located behind the toilet against the rear load-bearing wall. It is very simple to make, since it only requires the installation of a frame from a profile and the fastening of one continuous sheet of drywall. But in this case, more material may be required, and this method takes up a lot of space from an already small toilet room.
If the sewerage and water supply pipes are located in the corner of the toilet, a neat corner box is made. The guide profiles go from the floor to the ceiling, stiffening ribs are attached between them, the entire frame is sheathed with plasterboard and then they begin to decorate it. The box will have the shape of the letter G. Before covering, you need to take care of the door, which will provide easy access to the riser. It is quite easy to make a box of this shape due to the fact that it will be closed from the back by load-bearing walls; its advantage is also that it takes up minimal space in the bathroom.
If the sewer pipes are not located in the corner of the room, but space saving is required, you can make a U-shaped box. Installing the frame for it will be more labor-intensive; more trimming of the metal profile will be required, but after careful work, such a cabinet will look very elegant.
The issue of access to pipes and water meters during the construction of such partitions is very relevant. The box can be made removable, then, if necessary, the entire structure can be removed entirely. The advantages of this method are that convenient access to the entire riser from floor to ceiling can be achieved at any time, but such a design will be very cumbersome, and removing a box made of metal profiles and drywall is quite difficult. Therefore, usually removable bathroom boxes are made of plastic, PVC and other lighter materials.
A much more common method of accessing a riser in a box is to install a door. In the frame, a rectangular frame is made from a profile - it will serve as a hole to easily penetrate inside.
Doors can be made from the same plasterboard, plastic, PVC, plywood or other available materials. They can be single-leaf or double-leaf, removable or hinged. For convenient closure, they can be made with locks, a latch, or magnets. Properly installed doors that match the finish of the frame and walls of the toilet look very beautiful.
Options decorative finishing There are a lot of riser boxes for pipes. The most common option is to cover them with PVC panels. They look great, are protected from moisture, and are very easy to install. With this method, if the box is corner or U-shaped, you need to purchase decorative plastic corners so that the structure looks more aesthetically pleasing.
Often plasterboard boxes are lined with ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware. This good option, especially if the walls have the same finish - then the box will fit well into the interior. In addition, it will be created additional protection from moisture and noise.
When decorating a plasterboard pipe box, it can be equipped with additional functions. There are designs with shelves for toiletries, niches for a brush or plunger, hooks for towels and other useful details. You can use the box partitions as efficiently as possible, you just have to show your design imagination.
Drawings
Before installing the toilet box the right decision will draw up frame drawings. They should indicate the dimensions of the main guide profiles, door openings, vertical and horizontal distances between the stiffeners, ventilation holes and other elements. Such drawings will help not only to correctly navigate when installing the box, but also to calculate in advance the consumption of drywall sheets, metal profiles and fasteners.
Calculation of materials and components
Calculating the consumption of drywall for a toilet box is very simple. It is enough to know the height from floor to ceiling and the width of the partitions - from these values you can calculate the total surface area. The number of metal profiles can be calculated based on the distance at which the stiffeners will be located from each other, usually this distance is 30–40 cm. Here it is also worth taking into account the door frame, recesses, ventilation holes, and other parts. The number of fastening elements - self-tapping screws and angles - is calculated according to the number of joints of the profiles, to which a correction of 15% can be added.
To build a plasterboard box in the toilet, you will need the following materials and tools:
- moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets 0.65–0.9 mm;
- metal profiles 40x40 mm;
- metal screws;
- self-tapping screws for drywall;
- building level;
- pencil, ruler and tape measure;
- hammer drill with 6 mm drill for concrete;
- screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
- metal scissors or grinder;
- assembly knife.
Installation of the box begins with making a drawing and marking the location of the profiles of the future frame along the walls and on the floor. To make a smooth and durable box, it is necessary to use a building level. First of all, the guides adjacent to the load-bearing walls. For them, U-shaped profiles are selected, preferably 40x40 mm, they are attached to the concrete using a hammer drill, a screwdriver and dowel screws with a diameter of 6 mm. After this, it is necessary to assemble the frame grid with stiffeners, partitions and a frame for the future access door.
For the strength of the frame, it is correct to make the distance between adjacent pieces of profiles at least 40 cm.
The profiles are fastened together using metal screws using a screwdriver. After installing each element, the level is checked. The profile fragments should be cut using a grinder with a metal cutting wheel or special scissors.
After the frame is ready, the plasterboard sheets are installed. There are special screws for them. The sheets are carefully cut to size with a painting knife and attached to the frame. The fewer cut pieces of drywall, the better, since the number of joints that then need to be processed to a uniform surface is reduced. This should be taken into account during installation and cutting as rational as possible.
The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful due to the pipes visible from everywhere. If you hide them, the bathroom can be transformed. That's why they use a plasterboard box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. You can also use the box to provide additional lighting.
The box is mainly needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and not frightening with their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing up the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.
You can always leave a hatch to have access to water meters
If you make a vertical box in the bathroom from plasterboard with your own hands, then it can be equipped with additional spotlights, which will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to classic version when the lighting is located on horizontal design. In both options, you need to bother with the lamps themselves, because you need special materials, devices and equipment for working in rooms with a high moisture content.
To sum up, we can say that a plasterboard box in a bathroom has the following functional purposes:
- Hides sewer pipes.
- Hides water pipes.
- Serves as a base for shelves.
- Serves as a basis for lighting.
Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. The method of its installation also depends on this. It’s one thing to make a thin box for a plasterboard bathtub, and quite another thing to mount a wide box directly under the ceiling.
Preparatory work
In order for the work process to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe needs to be hidden, so all that remains is to think about the dimensions future design, it is enough to step back from the pipe 2-5 centimeters in both directions and attach the profile there. This distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.
When covering vertical pipe it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it may have a certain slope. The pipe will extend as far as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to retreat a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.
The drawing itself can be created on a piece of paper for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using a drawing. Before making a plasterboard box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark it. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.
Marking for the box in the middle of the room As already written above, a plumb line is used to mark points on the floor and ceiling near the walls. With this a simple device they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a painting cord or profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides will be attached.
Now you will need to draw lines from the marked points on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.
After simple markings, you need to cut the gypsum board into strips of the required size, so as not to fool around with small space With large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box 25*25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material will still remain.
Frame installation
A plasterboard box in a bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or distribution pipes are hidden. To work you will need:
- metal screws;
- dowels;
- guide and rack profiles;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver and hammer drill;
- level.
Profiles are joined together at right angles A continuous guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. To install it, you need to take dowels 40 mm long and attach the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After this, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is attached in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20cm, you need two dowels, one is not enough). At the joints of the profiles there is no need to screw them to each other; this will be done at the time of covering with plasterboard.
Condensation often appears on the pipes and flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don’t have to worry about what happens to the hidden pipes.
For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at the bottom and top at right angles. Moreover, one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it ends up at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, we need the CD profile, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post, in fact, is not attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.
If you do not glue the tiles to the box, you can use regular guides The stud will be firmly fixed during installation of the drywall. It will fit tightly enough into the guides and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits tightly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in in this case classic of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.
Jumpers for extra strength and hatch
Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a plasterboard box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in increments of 40-60 cm between the central post and the wall guides. As a result, the design will be more reliable. The drywall will be attached to the studs, which will make the surface of the box stronger and smoother. The jumpers themselves can be made from both the CD profile and the UD profile (whichever you have left over). If the jumper is made of a rack profile, then it easily fits into the guides.
The jumpers can be secured with a notch to avoid bumps from screw heads If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off a few centimeters of the ribs on both sides of the jumper, leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that it can fit between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be secured. They need to be secured with metal screws.
Sometimes it is necessary to leave an inspection window in the box for the meter or other needs. Therefore, you need to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Simply insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.
Plasterboard covering and finishing
Can only be used moisture resistant drywall. It traditionally has a greenish color. Cut gypsum board sheets are attached first to one side of the box, and then to the other. Moreover, you need to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will be more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in increments of 15 cm. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, not only is the gypsum board attached in this place, but the profiles are also fastened to each other. Drywall must also be screwed in places where jumpers are installed.
The heads of the screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but also do not stick out. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the head is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.
Now it’s clear how to assemble a plasterboard box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, all screw heads are puttied, as well as all joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. The joints must be primed first so that the putty will adhere better. Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the joints.
It is necessary to pay careful attention to all aspects when preparing for finishing. You should perform the above procedures carefully, and then the entire gypsum board box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, which means high loads. Therefore, the structure must be strong, and the putty must not lag behind. Don’t forget about antifungal additives, but these are finishing details.
If you need to cover more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you understand such nuances.
The bathroom is the place where any person spends most of his time. This room should always be as comfortable and attractive as possible. To make your bathroom pleasing to the eye, it is necessary to cover the space under it with a box.
This will not only improve the appearance of the room, but will also create additional useful space for storing household equipment. It is not at all necessary to contact builders, because you can do everything yourself.
What is needed?
Creating a box under the bathtub is quite simple. To do this, you will first need a basic building material: plywood, plastic, chipboard. However, for the bathroom it is preferable to use plasterboard, which is more reliable and water-resistant. He can also offer more options for further surface finishing: painting, tiling and even wallpapering.
In addition, you will need the following tools:
- Plumb.
- Bubble level.
- Hammer.
- Construction knife.
- Construction corner.
- Impact drill.
- Roulette.
To build a plasterboard box for a bathtub, it is enough to take one sheet measuring 2.5 by 1.2 meters. It is best to take a thickness of 9 or 12.5 millimeters; they are more durable and reliable.
Also pay attention to moisture-resistant options that, when exposed to water and high temperatures will not be covered with perspiration. The frame of the housing can be built from galvanized metal profiles or wooden blocks. If you are going to use wood, treat it with an antiseptic in advance, which will protect it from destruction and rotting.
The components must be secured as follows:
- To secure the components of the box, it is best to use hammer-in European screws and dowels, which are designed for fastening to the wall.
- If the blocks need to be connected to each other, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are used.
- If you use wooden partitions, take hardened self-tapping screws with a length 2 times greater than the size of the block itself.
Read how to do it in a separate review.
Work order
First of all, to successfully install a plasterboard box under the bathroom, you need to mark the floor. The first line should indicate the outline along which you will place the guide outline. Keep in mind that the sheets themselves are installed on top of the frame, so the boundaries of your box will be slightly different. All lines must be checked for perpendicularity with respect to each other and the walls.
Keep in mind that sheets of drywall should not lie on the pipes - at least 3-5 centimeters of free space must be left between them. Choose the width yourself depending on the free space. If you are going to lay tiles on top of the sheets, then the width of the box must be a multiple of the width of one tile. Once you have finished marking the floor, you can begin marking the walls. This is done using a special construction thread, which allows you to place the correct points on the floor and ceiling.
Fastening frame elements
Install the profile near the wall, and then construct two racks: the spaced one and the front edge of the box. If the width of the resulting opening exceeds 25 centimeters and the height is 1.5 meters, then it is necessary to build support lintels and racks. They are installed at an equal distance from each other. If you use wooden blocks, be sure to treat the wood joints with a special mastic during installation.
Installation of drywall sheets
Pre-cut the sheet of drywall into separate single strips. First of all, prepare the material for the side edges - in this case, the width of the strips should be equal to the width of the frame. Make sure that it does not protrude beyond the side edges. Secure the resulting sheets with self-tapping screws at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the main posts. You can further strengthen the structure, however, if it is not very large, this will not play any role.
Facing
Once you have installed all the sheets of drywall into the frame, you can begin to putty the surface. This is necessary to form the corners of the box, as well as to seal the free spaces where it adjoins the walls. It is best to use a special plastic corner, which is secured with starting putty. After drying, finishing putty is applied to the surface. This means that the box is ready for subsequent laying of tiles.
Inspection hatches
At first glance it may seem that the box is simple design from metal beams and plasterboard sheets. However, when building it, you need to remember the features of the pipes and communications that you will be sheathing. After all, in this matter you need to create not only a beautiful, but also a convenient design.
In almost all apartments on sewer riser There are revisions - special couplings with an outlet or hole covered with a lid. They are necessary for clearing serious blockages. If they exist, then it is strictly forbidden to sew such places tightly with a box - it is necessary to leave the possibility of unhindered access to the audit.
There are the following types of inspection hatches:
- Ready-made screen - it is sold in all construction stores. This is the simplest and most convenient. Today you can find a surface with any design; you can easily select it for your interior.
- A hatch in the form of a roller shutter - in this case, the door can move up or down, but it is impossible to completely disguise it.
- Hatch for tiles - regular plastic box, which can be tiled.
Advice. If you don’t want to spend large sums on inspection hatches, you can build a regular frame and hang a moisture-repellent curtain.
