Plastic slats for sheathing. How to install plastic lathing on a PVC ceiling: video instructions

Many people prefer plastic panels for finishing a bathroom, toilet or balconies with loggias, but for attaching this building material finishing material, a modern sheathing is required for plastic panels.

Today the construction market is rich in a diverse range. The buyer only has to decide what material the finishing will be made of and select everything necessary.

There are several types of lathing for fastening panels. Wooden or plastic. Of course, you can also make a metal one, but this is not an option at all!!! So, both methods are successfully used. In this article, we will consider option number two, namely specialized plastic sheathing and we will try to figure everything out in order.

What is lathing for plastic panels?

As you know, in order to install plastic panels, they are also called PVC panels. A special plastic sheathing is used.
This type of lathing was developed specifically for fastening plastic panels. With the advent of this material, much less time is spent on work, and in addition, during installation there is no dirt that we are all familiar with. As a result, the investment of time and money is minimal.

Advantages of this material

The package for the sheathing for plastic panels includes a so-called clip; it acts as a fastener, like, for example, clamps for. You can forget about screws, nails, staplers and glue. That's all, now you just won't need it. If we talk about the time it takes to complete the work, the speed increases significantly. The mounting clip snaps into the groove of the mounting plate with light finger pressure. This eliminates the possibility that the panel will crack at the fastening point - this is simply impossible.

The good thing about lathing under plastic panels is that even a person who does not have special qualifications can cope with this work, since this system can be called universal.

If something goes wrong, you can remove the panel at any time in order to correct it, or even exchange it for another one. It is very convenient that you do not need to unscrew screws, or tear out nails or staples. Which often rendered the panels unusable during installation. Of course, their further use was impossible.

Undoubtedly, the advantages of plastic sheathing include the fact that in addition to its use in residential and commercial premises, it is recommended to use plastic sheathing during installation wall panels in rooms where there is high humidity. This applies to bathrooms, for example. Well, in those places where sudden temperature changes are possible. These include rooms that are not heated, or, on the contrary, heated rooms.

In addition to all of the above positive qualities, there is one more thing. The fact is that the mounting plate is made of a material that is fireproof. Such unfavorable phenomena as corrosion and rotting also do not threaten it. The resistance of the material to microorganisms is also excellent. Due to the fact that when installing or dismantling, there are absolutely no traces of damage left on it, it can be reused.

Among other things, such a sheathing can serve as a channel for electrical cables, which is very convenient.

What is the difference between plastic sheathing and wooden sheathing?

FROM THE USUAL WOODEN SHATTER AND ALL THESE BARS AND SLATS, PLASTIC IS DIFFERENT IN THAT IT:

1. firstly, as mentioned earlier, it is not subject to rotting
2. it will not crack under the influence of time and will not bend (it will not lead)
3. she practically doesn't "eats" room space

Ordinary apartments, as you know, do not have a large square footage. Therefore, the fact that the thickness of the plastic sheathing is no more than 1 cm is of great importance.

Installation of sheathing

The sheathing is installed under the plastic panels, in the same way as. At a distance of forty to fifty cm from each other. Then we place the panel and press it with clips. They should fit tightly into the groove of the sheathing.

It must be said that installation carried out using plastic sheathing simplifies the installation of the plastic panels themselves, but not so much that one can forget about all the other nuances associated with this work. Once again, I recommend reading the above article.

So, let's summarize all of the above:

By giving preference to special lathing for plastic panels, you significantly reduce work time. Plus, you will be able to complete the installation work yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals, having at hand the necessary set of tools that every man who does repairs himself should have.

This not only saves time, but also saves financial costs. What we mean here is that you don’t have to pay a specialist for the work, since you can do it yourself (but don’t forget to be careful when working with plastic in general). Even if you have never done such work before. The main thing is desire and accuracy, and the rest will follow.

watch the video and say thank you to the person who filmed it

Well, that's probably all. Of course, it’s up to you to decide which material to give preference to.

Good luck with the renovation.

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A lot of materials for interior decoration, which are presented in assortment construction stores, involve their installation on a pre-prepared sheathing. If you don’t want to invite a construction crew, then do the lathing yourself. It's not really complex process However, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of lathing, without which the final result of the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

Exists a whole series possible constructions of the sheathing and options for how to make it for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the sheathing, and then we will consider various ways its construction with indications of all the nuances.

Selecting material for interior sheathing

wood and metal sheathing

According to the type of material it can be formed:

• Wooden sheathing;
• Made from galvanized profile;
• Plastic sheathing.

Metal

IN modern construction as the main material for forming the sheathing for interior works Most often, a galvanized profile is used, which was originally invented for attaching drywall. In this case, a U-shaped profile with various sizes and shape for various target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. The end of the CD profile is inserted into it, from which the sheathing actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for forming partitions and walls, so sheathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a whole range of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and connecting them, which greatly facilitates the assembly of sheathing of any complexity and shape.

Tree

A time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since average cost lathing made of wood is significantly lower than the same one made of galvanized profile. Timber and boards with dimensions varying within 25-50 mm are used. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum acceptable size that will allow you to securely fasten the cladding material and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly pliable material from which you can construct a sheathing for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for sheathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced by using special impregnations. However, risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden sheathing using ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for sheathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods for installing them can vary dramatically. The specifics of their installation should be clarified in the manufacturer's instructions.

General structure of the lathing

To create a sheathing in general case it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. It is brought to the required level. After this, the intermediate elements are placed at a distance necessary to secure the sheathing elements. This is a very important point in which mistakes are not allowed.

To secure plasterboard sheets the distance of the sheathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is calculated from the middle of one crossbar to the middle of the other. Only in this case will it be possible to properly fasten the sheets end to end.

For PVC sheathing, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the sheathing in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

In case it happens, the distance between the sheathing bars is sufficient to accommodate it. So, for example, when using strips or slabs of mineral wool, the distance should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the insulator. This will allow you to pack it tightly without gaps.

Taking into account these construction features, you can already decide on the required amount of base material and determine how much the sheathing costs.

If necessary, at the stage of forming the sheathing, distribution is carried out hidden wiring, various communications and elements additional equipment, such as warm floors, insulation, etc. In the case of forming a sheathing with a counter-lattice, the frame around the perimeter should be made at a certain height for both layers of timber.

Choosing the direction of the sheathing

There are several types of lathing:

1. vertical
2. horizontal
3. with counter-lattice

Choose suitable option of the first two is possible only by deciding on the location of the elements of the finishing material. The counter-lattice is formed, firstly, to ensure normal ventilation of the space under the cladding, and secondly, to position the thermal insulation layer. It is applicable only when wooden sheathing is installed.

For plasterboard sheets, the lathing should be placed vertically, with the condition that the plasterboard sheets themselves have the same direction. The rule here is that the sheet must be fastened evenly along its entire length. Otherwise, when using transverse lathing, you will have to fill it too thickly, which will significantly affect the cost of the entire structure.

For mounting various types materials consisting of individual panels or strips, such as PVC panels, lining or wooden slats, aluminum panels etc., used transverse lathing. This means that when the material elements are arranged horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

If necessary, form counter-lattice The outer layer of the sheathing is mounted according to the rules already described, and the bottom layer, which is directly attached to the base, is positioned perpendicularly.

Horizontal (transverse) lathing and counter lathing using the example of a roof. When working indoors, a counter-lattice is rarely required.

Type 1: wooden beam sheathing

Wooden beams and boards are indispensable in the case of, and are also suitable for lathing walls.

The following tools will be required for the work:

1. saw;
2. jigsaw (preferably);
3. impact drill;
4. screwdriver, screwdriver;
5. chisel;
6. mallet, hammer;
7. tape measure, level, plumb lines, construction corner.

• The materials required are directly the timber from which the sheathing is installed, a board for making substrates, a board for the frame, screws and dowels for mounting the timber to the base.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the place for installing the outer elements of the sheathing (frame). This is especially important in cases where only part of the surface will be occupied for finishing. The location of the beams or boards along the perimeter is especially carefully measured using a level and plumb lines, because subsequent elements can be oriented along the frame.

If the surface on which the sheathing is made is uneven, you will have to use backings for some of the beams or parts thereof so that the outer edges of the sheathing form a single plane in the level. For example, you can sharpen the beams or comb the base. The choice of option depends on the nature of the irregularities. If they are present throughout the wall or floor, then it is better to use substrates. To determine the distance at which the beams will be separated from the wall, you should determine the highest point on the surface and from there calculate the position of the frame beams. In this case, it is best to take another 2-3 mm margin for unevenness of the beams themselves, which will be used in the sheathing.

Having determined the direction of the first beam of the frame, and having calculated the required size of the substrates that are needed, you can secure it with dowels and screws. The timber is secured with screws every 20-25 cm.

After the first beam, the rest are installed, which will form the perimeter of the sheathing. Everything is done with the derivation of a common plane and level. Window and door openings, as well as protruding parts of the walls, are lined around the perimeter with beams in order to securely fasten the edges of the sheathing elements along their border.

Scheme of sheathing a wall on a balcony for cladding with clapboard or panels

After this, you can begin to install the intermediate beams. There is no need to rigidly connect the intermediate beams to the frame elements, especially if you are not sure that the wood is properly dried. In the case of rigid fastening, due to thermal deformation or due to changes in humidity, the position of the sheathing elements may be lost, which will also affect appearance, and on the strength of the entire structure.

When using backings, you should secure the edges of the timber, checking the indications building level and plumb lines, and after that begin to secure in the middle, combing out the substrate of the required thickness or laying required quantity prepared pieces.

All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing should be treated protective compounds with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will protect the material from rotting, fungi, absorption of excess moisture and reduce the risk of fire.

Video: example of installing wooden sheathing under plastic panels

Type 2: metal lathing (made of galvanized profile)

The following tools will be required:

1. metal scissors;
2. screwdriver;
3. level, plumb;
4. tape measure, construction corner;
5. impact drill.

Most often, a galvanized profile is used when making sheathing for plasterboard, but it is also perfect for other sheathing materials. With the help of such a profile and all kinds of auxiliary fastenings, it is possible to sheath any surface. A galvanized profile is not suitable for forming sheathing on the floor; it is not strong enough for this. But the lathing on the ceiling is best and easiest to assemble from a profile, and not from a wooden beam.

In any case, all work begins with the installation of UD support profiles. They are fixed on the extreme sides perpendicular to the placement of the sheathing elements. All intermediate elements will be inserted with their ends inside this profile and attached to them. In addition to the two main guides, additional ones are installed parallel to the edges of window and door openings, as well as along the perimeter of protruding elements that will not be sheathed.

The supporting metal profiles must be securely held to the base. To do this, fastening dowels are placed every 15-25 cm. As in the case of wooden sheathing, underlays may be needed if the surface of the base is uneven. It is extremely important to correctly determine the height of the substrates, because if you make a mistake or miscalculate, then when fixing the profile it will bend. After this it is no longer possible to level it.

Method of metal wall lathing based on CD60 profile

The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides with their ends at the edges and secured with screws. Special screws for galvanized profiles with a drill tip are best suited for this purpose. To add rigidity to the profile and the entire structure, you can additionally use mounting hangers. They are mainly used to secure profiles to the ceiling, but they are also suitable for walls. The edges of the hangers are bent at 90 degrees and secured in the places where the profile is installed. After installing the profile itself and securing it to the guides, the bent wings of the suspensions are screwed to it, cutting off their excess part, which protrudes above the profile. Before screwing, be sure to check the level of the entire profile, because the profile itself, although strong, still bends a little.

Finishing materials for the ceiling are presented in a wide variety, so choosing the preferred option is easy. To do this, be guided by your own preferences, interior style and requirements for quality and reliability indicators. One of the popular options is PVC panels.

They are distinguished by their versatility and ease of use, including for wall surfaces. The installation process is simple, so everyone can do it with their own hands, starting with creating the frame. The main thing is to create a strong sheathing for the structure made of PVC panels. It will guarantee that ceiling structure it will be reliable and durable.

Attention! Pay attention to all the details when creating a structure that acts as a frame, strictly adhering to the instructions on the video, which will show the stages of the process.

What is sheathing or frame?

The sheathing is the basis of the structure. It implies the ability to mount panels on the ceiling and walls of rooms. Frames are made from various materials, including plastic.

Among the advantages of this option are the following:

1. Resistant to temperature changes.
2. Easy to install on any surface, including walls.
3. Resistance to moisture.
4. Possibility to use repeatedly, saving money.
5. Resistance to deformation.

Frames are also made from other materials. Among them are metal profiles or wooden slats. Wood is not resistant to moisture and temperature changes, which will negatively affect the operation of the sheathing for walls and ceilings. The result is visible deformation. Metal structure not always suitable for PVC, as it becomes too heavy an option.

When compared to these materials, PVC frame has advantages. Among them are the simplicity and efficiency of installation, including for wall surfaces. The panels are easily attached to each other, eliminating the formation of gaps or cracks. Additionally, clips are used to ensure a secure fit to the wall or surface.

One more positive trait– resistance to mold and mildew. Plastic structures are fireproof and easily tolerate moisture and dampness, which cannot be said about their wooden or metal counterparts. If required, a plastic frame is used as a cable for organizing wiring.

What will be useful during the creation process?

You can create it yourself. This process is simple, and everyone probably has the tools needed for this at home. If desired, you can call the command experienced craftsmen who will quickly cope with the task assigned to them. But doing it yourself will give you a reason to be proud of your own successes.

Prepare the following tools:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Drill.
3. Tape measure or ruler.
4. Construction level, optimal choice– water option.
5. Hacksaw.

This is enough to create a PVC frame. Despite the fact that the cost will be more expensive than a wooden one, the result will pleasantly surprise you. There is no need to use antiseptics, and the installation itself is based on the use of special clip-fasteners, which facilitates the process.

Remember that decorative elements attached to the plastic frame in a perpendicular position relative to the structural elements. Compliance with this simple recommendation guarantees the quality of the fastening and the absence of problems later.

Stages of installation of the structure

To ensure successful installation of PVC lathing, follow the recommendations of professionals. The first thing people pay attention to is the distance between the slats. This is true for both ceilings and walls. Optimal distance– step of 30 cm. The PVC slats themselves are placed in a perpendicular position to the panels. In other words, if the panels are mounted in a vertical position, the slats are fastened horizontally and in reverse order.

An important point marking appears. It is carried out at the initial stage. Without this high quality frame It will not be possible to create one for the ceiling or walls. If you find it difficult to mark yourself, watch the video. It will introduce you to the details of the marking process for the ceiling and walls.

The frame is fastened along the perimeter of the room; to do this, measure the length of the walls, finding the lowest angle, draw a horizontal line from it, along which they begin to mount the frame. Panels from PVC material are joined together using a hacksaw and a miter box. These tools will allow you to get a good cut on the panels with minimal dimensions. The material is fastened every 25-30 cm.

If desired, you can make this process easier. To do this, pull the fishing line along the marking line. This makes installation easier and reduces the likelihood of errors.

If you have been able to appreciate the advantages of PVC lathing and lining the ceiling and walls with plastic panels, carefully prepare for the installation process. To perform the steps correctly, watch the video. It will allow you to understand the intricacies of the process of creating a ceiling, and avoid typical mistakes. Video is the best assistant that guarantees that the cladding is done correctly.

Finishing walls with plastic panels has a number of advantages, which include high installation speed, excellent technical specifications material, no need to pre-level the walls. It is quite possible for people who do not have professional construction and repair skills to carry out such work. But if PVC installation The installation of lamellas does not cause any particular difficulties, but during the installation of the sheathing a number of questions arise. How to make a sheathing for plastic panels will be discussed in our article.

Example of wooden lathing for plastic panels

Required materials and tools

To avoid downtime during the installation process due to searching for missing parts, you should prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials. For work you will definitely need:

The following materials are used for installation of the sheathing:

• wooden blocks;
• galvanized profile;
• plastic guides.

Each of these samples is quite easy to install and has proven itself during operation. There is no single recommendation on how to choose the right material for installation; preference should be given based on your financial capabilities or available remnants from previous repairs.

Calculation of materials for the frame

Don’t forget to calculate the required amount of materials in advance

Any construction and installation work begins with preliminary calculations of the required materials and drawing up an estimate. Regardless of the materials used, the installation process and layout remain unchanged.

To assemble the sheathing, on which the panels will not bend or sag, you will initially need to install profile frames (bars) along the perimeter of each wall, and only then install the transverse slats.

Please note that the installation of slats around the perimeter of window and door openings is also a prerequisite.

• Before making the sheathing, measure the height and width of the walls, as well as the perimeter of the doors and windows. You will also need these measurements to calculate the required number of plastic panels.
• Specific gravity panels allows you to assemble the sheathing with a pitch between slats of 50 cm or more. The distance between them depends on the quality and thickness of the plastic. The more durable material intended to be used, the larger the gap can be left.
• On a wall 250 cm high, you will need to fill the frame around the perimeter and place 4 transverse slats in it every 50 cm or 3 slats every 62 cm.
• To attach the slats to the wall, use self-tapping screws (for wooden or adobe surfaces) or dowels and nails (for concrete and brick bases) with a pitch of 20 - 30 cm between them.

Based on the measurements obtained, you can easily calculate the required amount of consumables.

Marking and installation

Be sure to use a level when marking

The lathing, made in a single plane, is the key to a high-quality plastic-lined wall.

The most significant advantages of finishing walls with plastic panels include the ability to carry out installation without first leveling the rough base. The wall and ceiling may have significant unevenness and roughness. However, this does not mean at all that you will not have to carry out high-quality measurements and bring the sheathing into a single plane.

IN multi-storey buildings same height walls at all points of the room, as well as right angles are the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, with the help of panels it is necessary not only to decorate the surface, but also to give the room the correct geometric shape.

Ceiling

Attaching panels to the ceiling sheathing

To begin installing the sheathing, start from the lowest corner. The first mark is left at a distance from the ceiling equal to the width of the profile used. If you plan to install built-in spotlights, then take into account the height of the soffit. In cases where there is a need to lower the ceiling, thereby reducing the height of the walls, a mark is placed at the desired point.

1. Using a hydraulic or laser level, additional markings are made, drawing marks on each wall, retreating 10 - 15 cm from the corner.
2. Connect the marks using a tapping cable (a strong thread richly painted with dry powder).
3. Mark the ceiling in increments of 50–60 cm.

The resulting lines serve as a guide for screwing the sheathing to the base.

Walls

For walls, it is extremely important to assemble a frame with right angles 90 degrees. There is no way to get by here without laser level or construction corner.

Example of wall lathing

1. First of all, bars or profiles are filled in the corners of the room. If necessary, additional gaskets are placed under them. It is important at this stage to position the slats so that the angle formed between the mating surfaces is straight. Check the resulting connections using a construction angle.
2. The profiles are fastened along the ceiling and floor coverings.
3. Pull the cord between the upper and lower profiles, and, focusing on it, install the horizontal strips of the sheathing.
4. Along the perimeter of window and doorways Profile slats must be installed.

When installing a frame under a plastic structure on a balcony or loggia, they use the same calculations and methods. However, it makes sense to insulate the room by placing a layer of thermal insulation in strips between the profiles.

Features of a wooden frame

Ceiling sheathing for plastic lamellas, assembled from wooden blocks, is distinguished by its relatively low cost and insignificant weight. She bears weight perfectly plastic construction. The only drawback of wood is its ability to actively absorb moisture from environment, which leads to its deformation during operation. Based on these features, this material It is not recommended to use in very humid areas. However, it is quite acceptable to assemble wooden sheathing in a residential area where it is installed ventilation duct and there is sufficient air exchange.

Example of a wooden frame in a bathroom

Wooden structure infection often strikes mold fungi, and not infrequently it becomes a place of residence for all kinds of bugs. To minimize the likelihood of unpleasant consequences, the wood is pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial compounds. In addition, today there are many products on the market with a hydrophobic effect; after coating, the wood loses its ability to absorb moisture.

If you want to maximize the service life of a wood structure, do not neglect and treat individual elements with special preserving impregnations.

1. To facilitate the installation process, mark the locations of the screws on wooden blocks and drill them with a wood drill.
2. IN concrete base Drill holes for the dowel using countersunk nails.
3. Align the holes in the slats and the base of the walls, and attach with hardware.
4. In case of attachment to wooden base use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm.

Features of installation of galvanized profile lathing

Galvanized profile frame

Lathing made of galvanized profiles is installed extremely rarely; this is largely due to significant financial costs. However, in cases where there is a need to omit ceiling, they collect exactly metal frame.

Upon purchase metal profiles pay attention to their markings. Depending on their purpose, they are ceiling-mounted, rack-mounted, or guide-mounted.

To mount the frame on the ceiling, use UD profile guides, which are placed around the perimeter of the room, securing them with their back to the rough base. After installation, the frames are inserted into the grooves of the CD profile.

When the profile is attached directly to the rough base, self-tapping screws or dowel nails are used. If there is a need to maintain a gap between them, use U-shaped hangers or anchors.

If for installation plasterboard ceilings If it is necessary to install a cellular frame, then a rack frame is sufficient for fastening PVC panels.

Plastic frame

Wood and metal are not the only materials used for assembling sheathing. Widely in demand in recent years use PVC guides. Such structures are durable, not affected by high humidity and corrosion, easy to install, and have a low weight.

To the walls plastic profiles fasten with self-tapping screws or dowels with nails. But the panels are fixed with special clamps, reducing assembly time to a minimum and significantly saving time.

Instead of a conclusion

Despite the apparent complexity, installation of sheathing under plastic panels can be done independently with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. You just need to be patient and have a standard set of tools in your arsenal. The most important thing in this work is to make an accurate calculation of the required materials and assemble the structure in a single plane, observing right angles. We hope that after reading the material, you were able to get an answer to the question of how to make your own sheathing for installing plastic panels.

We recommend video: Finishing bathroom walls in 1 day with plastic panels

In this article we will look at how the ceiling is lathed under plastic panels. The appearance of plastic panels made of polyvinyl chloride on the construction market has made a real revolution in the industry finishing works. The use of this material allowed us to take a fresh look at the design and methods of finishing such capricious, in terms of construction, parts of the room as ceilings.

Material properties

The usual plaster, which cracked, peeled and became dirty, is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Its place is confidently and permanently occupied by PVC panels. Plastic coating made from this material is distinguished not only by its beauty, but also by its high practical qualities, such as:

• durability;
• water resistance;
• elasticity;
• immunity to high and low temperatures;
• environmental safety;
• possibility of quick assembly and disassembly;
• the ability to hide all defects of the top plate;
• the ability to quickly and inexpensively differentiate between the attic and work area V warehouses, Where ceiling surface was not installed.

The possibility of quick installation and dismantling for the purpose of replacing or repairing individual fragments is achieved due to the fact that removable elements from which the frame is mounted are used to attach such finishing.
The frame for the ceiling made of plastic is load-bearing structure, to which they are attached ceiling panels PVC. The main element of the frame is the sheathing - rigidly, in a certain order, guides made of different material, to which plastic panels are attached using fasteners.

Material used for installation of sheathing

Since the lathing performs two main tasks - the basis for fastening the panels and creating for them flat surface, then the material for it must be strong, stable and durable.
Today, the construction industry offers fasteners in order to mount the ceiling sheathing under plastic panels made of:

1. Tree.
2. Steel.
3. Plastics.

Each of them has its own pros and cons. More about this.
Wood is the most popular material for making ceiling lathing under PVC panels. This material has proven itself well over many years of use.
The tree is characterized by:

• strength;
• durability;
• pliability and ease of processing.

With appropriate processing - resistance to rotting, burning and mold.
TO negative qualities wood refers to its ability to change shape when dried. Considering that the PVC panels are attached rigidly to a wooden frame, if the rail moves, this will cause the surface of the plastic to bend.
Steel profiles are a great success among builders due to the positive properties of this material, such as:

• high strength;
• durability;
• possibility of manufacturing structures of any complexity.

The disadvantage of steel products is their lack of resistance to corrosion, which in damp rooms can lead to the appearance of dirty streaks on the plastic. Cost is also not the least important.
The ceiling lathing for plastic panels, made of plastic, is characterized by:

• precision of forms;
• possibility of use for laying electrical wires;
• immunity to corrosion, rot and mold.

Plastic profiles have a fairly high cost and a narrow range of applications. In addition, they will not be able to withstand heavy weight.

Design Features

Lathing for PVC plastic can be made from one material or in a combined way. Also, frames can be fixed only to the ceiling or to walls and surfaces. The choice of installation method depends on the characteristics of the room:

1. Wooden and plastic frames used when fastening directly to the floor slab, when it is flat and there is no need to take up space.
2. The design of metal profiles is used in cases where PVC plastic a large area is sheathed and the sheathing will be affected by a significant mass of material attached to it.
3. A combined structure is installed when there is a need to lower the ceiling level in order to hide certain elements or defects in the floor slab.

How to make lathing on the ceiling under PVC panels?

Before you begin manufacturing the ceiling lathing for plastic panels, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work.
These include:

1. Removing from the floor slab or the inside of the roof all parts of the trim and objects that could fall onto the PVC panels.
2. Coating of wooden blanks for lathing on the ceiling under PVC with an antifungal composition and fire-retardant impregnation.
3. Anti-corrosion treatment of steel profiles.
4. Preparing devices for working at the upper level - stepladders or sawhorses.
5. Purchasing the necessary building materials and tools.

Tools and materials

To install the ceiling sheathing under the plastic panels you will need the following equipment:

• hacksaw with fine teeth;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• building level;
• pliers;
• dowels and screws;
• chisel;
• a set of bars and slats.

Installation of sheathing

The frameless design is mounted directly on concrete slab. This work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Preparing slats of the required length.
2. Drilling holes in them for fastening. The distance between the drilling points is 30 cm, from the edges - 2 cm.
3. Application to the ceiling, through holes in the slats, places for drilling.
4. Drilling holes.
5. Inserting plastic dowels into the holes.
6. Screwing the slats with self-tapping screws.

Important: First you need to screw the slats around the perimeter of the room, and then, at intervals of 40-50 cm, the remaining slats.

Lathing ceilings under plastic panels using a spatial frame is carried out in 2 stages.
Stage 1 includes the following actions:

1. Carrying out measurements.
2. Cutting out sections of the support profile.
3. Marking the wall to install the support profile.
4. Drilling holes for it (every 15-20 cm).
5. Fastening the support profile to the walls.
6. Installation of steel hangers at intervals and distances of 50 cm.
7. Measuring and cutting out guide profiles.
8. Fastening the guides to the supporting profile.
9. Fastening plumb lines and horizontal guides.

Stage 2 is simpler and requires less effort and time. During it the following is carried out:

1. Carrying out measurements.
2. Sawing out slats to place around the perimeter of the frame.
3. Drill holes in these slats every 30cm.
4. Screwing slats to steel guides.
5. Measuring the distance between screwed slats.
6. Cutting out slats and drilling holes in them for self-tapping screws.
7. Screwing the slats with metal screws to the guides.

After completing the assembly of the sheathing, work is carried out to secure fasteners and plastic panels to it. If necessary, it can be placed in the spatial frame mineral wool. This will be an extra layer of thermal insulation.

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