How to attach plastic panels to the wall. Do-it-yourself installation of PVC wall panels

Installation decorative panels allows you to solve many pressing problems. And it’s not just about the design of the premises as such, of course. But just buy suitable products It’s not enough; you still need to carefully study their features and understand how to install them correctly.

Criterias of choice

Speaking about plastic (PVC) decorative sheet materials, about their installation, one cannot ignore the question of what exactly is to be installed. Even the most scrupulous adherence to technology will not allow you to achieve good results when using bad products. Majority wall panels purchased for bathrooms, because great importance It is resistant to moisture and microorganisms. Since any wall periodically experiences mechanical stress, the surface must be resistant to such developments.

First of all, it depends on the thickness of the outer surface. Reliable wall blocks should have a layer of 0.25 cm, while in the ultra-budget category this figure reaches only 0.15 cm (if it still reaches). Appearance is also important: a good product is always smooth not only in its geometry, but also in color.

Strength is determined not only by the depth of the panel, but also by the number of ribs. The most reliable designs are equipped with 29 such parts, and the average is 20. But edge to edge is different, they must also be perfectly smooth and not differ in thickness; Any placement other than at right angles to the surface is prohibited.

It is also useful to look at the joints of the panels, which should fit together as tightly as possible. Since thick walls and additional fins cannot be created from thin air, good block quite heavy. This can even be considered one of practical advantages. One more circumstance should be taken into account: you can decorate the walls of a house either well or cheaply. Experienced owners always purchase at least mid-price panels, and qualified builders approve of this.

In addition to these obvious considerations, it is worth paying attention to the chalk, or more precisely, its concentration. Standard-compliant panels contain this mineral only in trace amounts. When they bend halfway, they will straighten and there will be no dents on the surface. But even flawless wall blocks can be damaged by improper work.

Preparatory stage

You won’t be able to do everything right if you don’t prepare for installation. Meticulous work is not required, but accurate measurements of the surfaces to be finished and calculation of the required volume of material are extremely important. At the preliminary stage, they decide how to install the panels. Ideally smooth surfaces that only need to be decorated are simply pasted over. And if there are deviations from strict verticals, then you will need to create frames; They will also have to be used to disguise communications.

Initially, the lowest point on the ceiling is found, and marks equal to the width of one panel are drawn from it. With a level around the entire perimeter, make marks where anchors or dowels are to be secured. These fasteners will help attach the frame to the walls.

The profiles should be attached at an angle of 90 degrees to the slabs that are to be placed on them. You can make installation easier if, in addition to setting marks and checking the level, you add pulling a thin cord, the edges of which are covered with colored chalk and pressed against the surface to be treated.

The profile itself can be formed from wood, metal and even plastic. The choice of a suitable material is determined primarily by the conditions in which it will be used. So, wood performs well in a “regular” room, but its prospects are much worse in bathrooms or on open balconies. And even where high humidity is unlikely to occur, you will have to use specially selected impregnation. This is the only way to prevent exposure to liquid and the occurrence of mold.

Tools and accessories

To work you will need:

stepladder (more convenient than a moving table or stool);
drill (replaced with a hammer drill);
roulette;
hydraulic level;
metal saw;
painting knife;
self-tapping screws;
hammer.

In addition to additional tools, it is worth noting the importance of prepared accessories. You will definitely need a so-called starting profile, which helps close the borders of the panels at the ends. In addition to it, you will need an F-shaped profile, which provides the best decorative qualities of the end blocks. Specialized moldings help connect the various panels into a single structure. There is a special type of profiles for external and internal corners.

Since the panels will be adjacent to floors and ceilings, two types of baseboards must be used. Soft universal corners are useful. Fastening to frame parts is ensured with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails. All components, with the exception of frame guides that are not visible from the outside, must have the same color as the panels. Even experienced designers do not recommend experimenting with color contrasts in this case.

Calculation

In order for wall surfaces to be finished properly, you need to carefully and scrupulously calculate the need for the blocks used and the components for them.

Standard dimensions of wall panels are:

thickness 0.6-1 cm;
width 25-30 cm;
length 250-600 cm.

The key importance, according to professionals, is the width. If you choose the largest possible products, you can reduce the number of seams, and the appearance of the installation will be closer to a continuous surface. But during the work itself, narrow structures are more practical because they are easier to bend. And the relative lightness of each block makes itself felt.

A compromise is achieved by using panels with a width of 250 mm.

The calculation itself begins with determining the perimeter of the sheathed base. From this figure the perimeter of each door, each window or other part that for some reason cannot be sheathed is subtracted. The result obtained is divided by the perimeter of a single block (only remembering that part of the block material will go into segments). Rounding in calculations is always carried out upward, and a margin for cuts is provided in the amount of 10%. If you have no experience, you can even leave 12-14%.

slats will have to be placed not only on the edges of the walls, they need to surround the openings of doors and windows;
the standard profile gap is 0.3 m;
the very first profile is always turned at right angles to the future installation plane;
the slats themselves are fastened to the walls using self-tapping screws or dowels with a gap of 400 mm;
The guides are attached to the slats at a distance of 500 mm.

Installation methods

On the frame

When all the PVC panels have been selected and purchased, when the components for installation have been prepared, you can begin immediately. And in many cases, the most practical solution is to use a frame. Secure with self-tapping screws decorative blocks possible even on relatively uneven surfaces. But there is a problem - you will have to either use a screwdriver or spend a lot of time. To screw in self-tapping screws, it is advisable to use a wooden sheathing, so first the timber is sawed and impregnated with antiseptic mixtures.

Alternatively, you can fasten the panels yourself using clamps. Such details ensure reliable retention of decorative blocks. When using clamps, the lathing is formed from metal, and the covering can be assembled without additional effort. Each deformed block is quickly replaced with a new product, and even if the entire cladding is no longer satisfactory, it can be easily replaced. Installation of frames is carried out exclusively on levels to avoid distortions.

There is no need to measure each individual batten, you just need to mark the walls. The lowest stroke of the frame is created 10-20 mm above the floor. A line is drawn from the selected point using a level. Similarly, they show features under the ceilings or along the edges of the trim. Then, from the lowest strip that needs to be sheathed, they retreat upward 400 - 500 mm, set up a beacon, and so systematically move to the top strip; Beacons will help ensure parallel lines.

It is important to take into account that horizontal frames should be mounted in a vertical plane, vertical ones – horizontally. If you need to hang panels on uneven walls, the sheathing is mounted on top of wooden wedges. Wires running along the walls are hidden under the finishing.

Since you can’t joke with electricity, all work is carried out only after measurements. Clamps are used to press the wiring so that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the sheathing.

The slats are placed moving from the most distant (relative to the entrance) corners. But if for some reason another place is most noticeable, they still work from there. The panel is fastened by inserting it into the side moldings, applying it to the corner and attaching it to the sheathing on the reverse side. The next block is inserted into a special groove on the first one, the joints are thoroughly pressed and attached to the frame slats. You can increase the tightness of the joints by lubricating the sides with silicone.

Accession next panels produced according to exactly the same scheme. To prepare holes for sockets or switches, use sharply sharpened knives. When installation is completed, the treated areas are covered with plastic boxes. But to insert the last lamella, it is cut to width. First, try on the wall, mark with a pencil, and then take a hacksaw.

Every corner, every connection should be covered with moldings. With their help, panels are inserted with edges on both sides, and all intersections immediately become more pleasing to look at. The final stage of the work is the installation of decorative molding along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and a baseboard that repeats it at the bottom. If you use the panels installed in this way carefully, they will retain their attractive appearance for a long time and will not require repairs.

Before you begin, be sure to:

remove peeling coatings;
look for cracks and chips;
if they are detected, immediately putty or plaster the problem areas.

An additional challenge is the installation of PVC panels in rooms exposed to moisture. The primary surface must be covered with waterproofing. It is applied to a pre-moistened base. When the product dries, treatment against mold fungi is carried out. When using wooden sheathing, all calculations of distances from the wall should take into account an amendment of 0.2 - 0.3 cm associated with possible deviations from the ideal shape.

The upper and lower levels are verified by the hydraulic level, and the side lines by the plumb line. Fastening is carried out through hangers that set the indentation. After installing the sheathing, carefully check whether its outer edges are on the same line. Adjustment, if necessary, is carried out either by cutting the timber with a plane, or by adding substrates. If screws are used to create the frame, the gap between them will be from 200 to 250 mm for wooden products and from 150 to 250 mm for metal products.

Frameless

Fastening PVC panels does not necessarily mean using frames. Installation is often done using glue. The procedure itself is not complicated, you just have to carefully prepare for it. Naturally, it is necessary to remove all the previous coating completely and seal the cracks. If with the frame method the remaining intact layer could be tolerable, then here the situation is different.

It’s not always possible to make a completely perfect wall. But even inexperienced people can reduce the height difference to 5 mm or less. In addition, before attaching the panels with glue, it is necessary to wash off the whitewash, remove greasy traces with detergents and apply a primer. After all this work, the decisive factor is right choice and application of glue. Allowed to use universal adhesives, but it is much more correct to choose compounds that are specially made for joining plastics.

High quality adhesive:

forms a frozen transparent film;
immune to getting wet, cooling (even alternating with overheating);
adheres two surfaces in a short time and retains its ability to hold them together for a long time.

Hot-melt adhesive is not suitable at all. It holds the panel too tightly and does not allow the plastic, which rapidly expands when heated, to move. As a result, it quickly disappears. It is advisable to use polyurethane-based sealants or “liquid nails”. They allow you to avoid such unpleasant developments.

Before gluing, the panels themselves are rubbed with a damp cloth on the reverse side. This allows you to remove dust.

Then glue is applied pointwise, at a distance of 0.25 - 0.35 m. Contrary to the obvious, when using liquid nails, the attached panel must be tapped and removed. Only contact with air for 5 - 7 minutes ensures the stability of the connection upon repeated application. Frameless installation almost always avoids creating external and internal corners.

Plastic corners without grooves are used instead. Such products are covered with transparent silicone, rubbing with a damp cloth to remove excess mixture. The insert can, depending on the severity of the angle, reach 2 - 5 cm. Places where it should be placed electric outlet, are cut out. Turn off the power supply in advance; The installation is completed by laying skirting boards at the joints with the floor and ceiling, which are screwed in with self-tapping screws.

The borders of the panels are covered with mounting foam or silicone-based sealant. The second option is optimal where humidity is excessively high. If you have to cut off the parts to be glued, use hand saws or electric jigsaws. Sometimes frameless installation of PVC panels is carried out using a construction network.

Covering the wall with PVC panels, whether frame or frameless methods, is produced only in rooms where there are no temperature fluctuations exceeding 20 degrees. Installation in a room where the air is colder than +10 is not allowed. If the panels were stored or transported at lower temperatures, they should be kept in normal conditions from 48 hours. It is advisable to install heat-protective material under the cladding. The lathing is installed in maximum increments of 0.5 m; no considerations justify exceeding this distance.

Cladding slats should surround not only openings for windows and doors, but also kitchen vents, as well as ventilation outlets in other rooms. The recommended dimensions of the slats are 3x1 or 3x2 cm. When it is clear that the room will be particularly wet, the lathing is equipped with cuts. This will improve ventilation. When connecting plastic blocks horizontally on facades, the groove edges are oriented downward to prevent the grooves from filling with water.

Leaving upper and lower gaps of 0.5 cm helps to compensate for temperature shifts. The vertical layout of panels with a pattern is from left to right, from one corner to another. For blocks that are colored monotonously or form a pattern that is symmetrical in any direction, the choice of primary angle is subjective. In addition to the tools listed above, the work may require pobedit drills, screwdrivers, miter boxes, pliers, squares, furniture staplers with staples 1 cm long. When using a finish without seams, maximum attention should be paid to the tightness of the joint of its parts, otherwise it will turn out unsightly.

It is extremely difficult to decorate walls with your own hands using panels decorated with bright and rich designs characterized by abundant detail. Judging by the reviews, such work inevitably causes difficulties, especially when placing components and complementary elements. The relief of the mosaic forces us to completely abandon the idea of removing the corner slots. You should carefully choose the color of the panels to be mounted, because errors of this kind are difficult to correct. The closer the parts of the frame are to each other, the stronger it becomes as a whole, but the fastenings cannot be brought closer than 300 mm.

It is not advisable to use adhesive fastening if you know for sure that PVC panels will have to be removed in the future. And the need for this sometimes arises suddenly, so you should definitely think about frame installation. To attach the cladding to metal profiles, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws with press washers. Irregularities concrete wall corrected by placing a block of the required thickness. You can use PVC panels in the hallway without any doubt, you just need to select them carefully.

Most often they choose to imitate natural wood. Regardless of the reproduced breed and dark or lightened color, a calm and benevolent interior is created. In modern settings, tones such as wenge or bleached oak are used.

It is worth remembering all the time that in small corridors, excess darkness is contraindicated. Be sure to achieve contrast in the color of walls and furniture.

Duplicating the appearance of a stone is becoming increasingly popular. A variety of PVC coloring with specially selected pigments makes this task easier. When choosing a suitable option for a “stone” wall, you must first ask yourself whether you want to emphasize the luxury and solidity of the image or create a laconic ensemble. Regardless of the approach taken, there is ample room to demonstrate originality. It is not even necessary to use only panels; they combine well with other materials (paint and varnish, various wallpapers, frescoes).

Corridors with dim, subdued lighting should be finished with light-colored materials. Otherwise, the space will be visually absorbed. Large rooms can already be covered with large-scale drawings and geometric patterns. If the walls are made light and the flooring is dark, the room will expand. Attention should be paid to the selection of accessories for PVC panels.

Thus, profile H is used at joints and joints, and L is used to start laying and at the ends, although both products are 3 m long and are intended for 0.8 cm panels. Plastic profiles in the shape of the letter U are inexpensive and weigh little, make it easier to fasten. At the same time, they are extremely resistant to humidity, water vapor, and temperature fluctuations. Such blocks need to be placed at intervals of 30 cm. But screws or dowels are screwed in every 100 cm.

Profile grooves in the shape of the letter U can be used for pulling cables. If you choose to use metal sheathing, the cable should be pulled through PVC pipes with a corrugated sheath. Only it prevents the destruction of the braids by the cutting parts of the profile. For technical reasons, it is unacceptable to install any polyvinyl chloride blocks in places where temperatures may exceed 40 degrees, with or without high humidity. Instead of cutting the end panels to width, you can unfold them, bringing the locks to the opposite side and cutting the groove from the outside.

All work with PVC must be carried out more carefully than with wood. It is fragile and any sudden movement can create cracks in the outer layer. There is no way to remove them; the panel will be hopelessly damaged.

The article will discuss how to attach PVC panels to the wall and to the ceiling base: possible options for fixing the material on the surface, the main step-by-step technologies, nuances correct use material and creating interior design using it. Visual examples of the design of a bathroom, kitchen, balcony and other premises will also be provided.

Fastening PVC panels to the wall can be done using adhesive, self-tapping screws or clamps

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are practical and durable. For this reason, they are widely used to decorate the surfaces of walls and ceilings in the house. Thanks to the wide variety of shapes, shades and textures, an interior based on this material can be stylish and beautiful.

Helpful advice! Use PVC panels for bathroom renovation. This material is hygienic and is not at all afraid of water, so it can be used in rooms where other finishing options are not suitable. On the Internet you can find not only photos of finishing a bathroom with PVC panels, but also design options using this material in the kitchen, toilet, balcony or loggia, and sauna.

Advantages of the material:

resistance to moisture;

convenient installation system that even a beginner can handle;

long service life;

fire safety;

resistance to mold, fungi and other microorganisms;

hygiene;

ease of care and cleaning;

affordable price.

On the Internet you can come across photos of PVC panels for the kitchen; instead of tiles, this material looks no less beautiful, and its cost is much lower than that of tiles.

The disadvantages of polyvinyl chloride panels include a low level of impact strength. Therefore, you should carefully control the process of transporting material from the purchase site to the work area. When installing PVC wall panels with your own hands, you should also be careful not to damage them.

Before you begin installing PVC panels in the bathroom or in any other room, you should prepare the tools and materials necessary for the installation. finishing works. They should always be at hand.

To renovate a room with PVC panels you will need:

tape measure and pencil (for marking);

hacksaws with fine teeth (for cutting material);

building level;

square;

PVC panels;

plastic profile for PVC panels or slats;

a set of fixing elements (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, clamps);

hammer drill and screwdriver;

antiseptic solution and sealant;

ceiling plinths.

At the same stage, the selection and purchase of material is carried out. There are panels on the market with different types of coating, which can be glossy or matte. In addition, manufacturers use various technologies for applying patterns and designs.

Strength characteristics depend on the thickness of the panel walls, as well as on the number of stiffeners located inside.

Helpful advice! To test the strength of the material, gently press the surface of the plastic with your finger. If the panel bends, it means that it has a low strength rating and a short service life.

Features of the choice of material for wall covering with PVC panels

PVC panels from different manufacturers have different characteristics. Be sure to pay attention to the quality of the material.

To purchase a quality panel, avoid purchasing the material if:

the stiffeners are damaged or deformed;

the lines of the design on the front side of the panel are not clearly expressed, there are blurs or the edge line is blurred;

the lamellas differ from each other in shade;

the surface is covered with scratches;

the dimensional parameters of the lamellas do not match (in this case, the technology for attaching PVC panels to a ceiling or wall can not only be complicated, but also impossible, since the elements will not be tightly fixed).

Characteristics of average European and Chinese panels (comparative table):

Criterion European lamella Chinese lamella
Front side thickness, mm 2 1,5
Number of stiffeners, pcs. 29 20
External characteristics of stiffeners smooth, no deformations smooth, there are slight deformation changes
Lamella weight, kg/m² 2 1,7
External characteristics of the lamella Smooth coating, stiffeners do not protrude Smooth coating, the voids between the stiffening ribs are visible, there are slight deformation changes
Quality of raw materials With light pressure, the lamella bends a little and returns to its original state, the presence of chalk in the composition is minimal When lightly pressing the surface with a finger, the lamella undergoes deformation changes, which indicates a high chalk content in the composition
How to attach a PVC panel to the ceiling and wall: preliminary calculations

Before attaching the PVC panel, it is necessary to carry out preliminary calculations wall finishing material.

Helpful advice! Be sure to calculate the amount of material. This will allow you to avoid overpayments or additional purchases of panels if there are not enough of them. By performing preliminary calculations, you save both time and money.

When installing PVC wall panels, the slats can be positioned horizontally or vertically. It depends on your desire. Calculation of material for vertical installation is carried out as follows:

Measurements of the room are taken (length of the room along the perimeter).

The width of window and door openings is subtracted from the resulting value.

The remainder is divided by the width of one lamella.

As a result you get required amount panels for finishing the room. Be sure to add a few extra slats in case you accidentally damage one of the elements during the installation process.

For horizontal finishing, a slightly different calculation scheme is used:

The total area of the room is measured.

The area of window and door openings is subtracted.

The resulting value is divided by the area of one lamella.

In this case, it is necessary to add at least 10% of the panels in reserve to the received quantity. This point is determined by the fact that when finishing a ceiling horizontally with PVC panels, as well as when working with walls, the master is faced with the need to cut the material. The result is more construction waste.

Calculation of consumables for lathing under PVC panels

If you intend to install PVC wall panels with your own hands on top of the sheathing base, you should perform additional calculations of the quantity Supplies for this design. Metal profile elements or wood slats can be used as a building material for the sheathing.

First you need to measure the height of the walls in the room. Then divide this indicator by the step of placing the slats in the sheathing. The result of these calculations must be multiplied by the perimeter of the room. You will receive the length of profiles or slats in linear meters.

Note! Typically wooden or metal elements are located in increments of 50 cm from each other.

To calculate, measure the height of the corners in the room and multiply this figure by their number. As a result, you will get the total footage of corner-type profile elements. The perimeter of door and window openings located in the room is added to this value.

Using PVC panels: how to attach plastic slats to the wall in the bathroom

Numerous photos of PVC panels in the bathroom, which can be found while looking through websites and magazines on home renovations, indicate that this type of material is quite popular among consumers.

You can decorate a bathroom with PVC panels yourself in three different ways:

using an adhesive composition;

using self-tapping screws;

using clamps.

The use of an adhesive composition will be effective if you have to deal with perfectly flat and smooth surfaces.

Types of glue for PVC panels in the bathroom:

specialized adhesive composition for polyvinyl chloride slats;

universal composition “Moment-montazh”;

liquid Nails.

Installing lamellas with glue greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of renovation work in the bathroom, since the need to construct a lathing structure is completely eliminated.

U glue method There are also disadvantages to fixation. If the finish is damaged, the damaged lamella cannot be replaced with another one. Moreover, subsequent repairs will be complicated by the procedure for dismantling the old coating, which is difficult to remove from the wall.

Fixation with self-tapping screws is more convenient and reliable. To work, you will definitely need an auxiliary tool in the form of a screwdriver. Otherwise, the repair will be significantly delayed.

Note! Before fixing the PVC panel in the bathroom using self-tapping screws, there is no need to level the surface.

The disadvantages of this method include the need for construction frame base in the form of a lathing made of wood. This entails additional costs of time and money.

Clippers provide quick and reliable fixation of lamellas on the wall surface. In this case, the lathing structure must be metal.

Finishing a bathroom with PVC panels: interesting ideas, photos

Plastic finishing opens up wide possibilities for bathroom design - photos of PVC panels in the design of this room look stylish and impressive. Diversity color solutions and external characteristics of the material allows you to arrange the room in different styles.

Eco-friendly interiors are very popular today. Of course, plastic does not belong to the category of environmentally friendly and natural materials, but in the photo of the bathroom, PVC panels with a wood texture create an excellent imitation of the ethno style. The installation of PVC panels in the bathroom on the walls is ideally combined with the ceiling decoration made using slats.

In the photos of bathrooms, PVC panels imitating tiles look so natural that they are practically indistinguishable from real tiles. In this case, you achieve significant savings in terms of material purchase costs, since plastic slats will cost much less than ceramic tile. When renovating a bathroom with pvc panels to match the tiles, you have the opportunity to decorate the room in a neoclassical style, adding friezes, columns, borders, or classic version finishing.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to combine it in the design of a bathroom, as well as in the decoration of a toilet, with finishing materials from the expensive segment. The proximity of polyvinyl chloride to marble not only looks tasteless, but at the same time the presentability of natural stone is completely lost.

In the photo of finishing toilets with PVC panels, the light color scheme looks very advantageous. Thanks to this, you can add additional volume to a small bathroom. TO modern options The design of bathrooms includes the use of products with photo printing or installation of mosaics.

To decorate bathrooms, it is recommended to use plastic slats with a faintly textured surface. The fact is that volumetric textures can become an excellent basis for the formation of mold and fungal spores. If you buy material with large relief depressions on the surface, it will be difficult to maintain the finish later.

There are also advantages to the way PVC panels are attached to the walls in the bathroom:

saving money - average prices for panels with standard dimensional parameters are in the range of 200-300 rubles / piece. Range market value material covers prices from 100 to 500 rubles/piece. This indicator depends on the quality of the products and design;

hygiene and safety – the surface of the lamellas does not absorb unpleasant odors and can be easily cleaned with a sponge and soap solution;

high level of resistance to moisture. For this reason, the material is suitable for rooms with high humidity levels. This property allows you to finish the loggia with PVC panels, as well as the balcony, corridor and even the kitchen;

simplicity of the installation system - for this it is enough to have the skills to use a construction stapler and a screwdriver;

practicality - in the photo of finishing bathrooms with PVC panels, communication systems are not visible. The material is used for lining communication ducts, where all pipes, valves and other elements are placed.

Note! Plastic panels have excellent performance characteristics: low degree of flammability, thermal and sound insulation.

How to glue PVC panels to walls without using lathing

Before gluing the decorative PVC panel to the wall surface, it is necessary to prepare the base. This technology requires thorough cleaning of the walls and their subsequent leveling. Errors in choosing glue are also unacceptable.

Surface preparation involves:

complete removal of old coating;

eliminating cracks;

surface leveling.

The allowed size differences are within 5 mm. If the pits and bumps are deeper, over time the plastic will peel off or become deformed. There may be grease, dust, and dirt on the surface of the walls. These particles interfere with the normal adhesion of the glue. Therefore, it is advisable to wash off the whitewash from the surface of the walls and clean the grease using an effective detergent and apply primer.

List of universal adhesive compositions:

Emfikol 34012A;

Kleiberite 636;

Moment Crystal.

When installing PVC panels, you can use non-expanding polyurethane foam or liquid nails

These compounds can be used to install PVC panels with your own hands, but experts recommend using specialized glue for plastic.

Signs of a quality composition:

transparency after drying and formation of a film layer;

resistance to sudden temperature changes, moisture and frost (for this reason, photos of balconies decorated with PVC panels are so often found on the Internet);

fast setting;

reliable and long-lasting fixation.

Note! It is strictly forbidden to use hot melt adhesive to fix plastic.

You can use a non-expanding polyurethane foam sealant or liquid nails. These materials are plastic and firmly fix the panels to the wall.

Decorative PVC mosaic panels: how to glue, video instructions

To learn how to glue a PVC mosaic sheet panel, use the step-by-step instructions, which also apply to regular slats.

Step-by-step procedure:

Clean the back of the panel with a damp cloth.

Drying the panel (before gluing the PVC mosaic panels, the surface of the material must be completely dry - only after that can glue be applied).

Apply the adhesive composition to the back side using the dot method in increments of 25-35 cm.

Installing the panel to the wall.

If you use liquid nails in your work, the panel will need to be lightly tapped and then torn off the surface again. For better adhesion, the glue requires airing for 5-7 minutes. Then you need to fasten the lamella back into place.

The frameless method does not require the formation of external and internal corners for PVC panels. Such a procedure would be inappropriate in this case. Regular cladding with plastic corners, which do not have grooves for mounting lamellas. You can use transparent silicone to secure the corners. The size of such elements varies from 2 cm to 5 cm.

Helpful advice! To install trim around the outlets, you must first cut holes for them in the appropriate place on the panel. Be sure to turn off the electricity during the work.

For a more detailed study of the procedure for installing PVC wall panels with your own hands, use the video material posted below.

Lastly, the floor and ceiling skirting boards for PVC panels. Use self-tapping screws for this. The joint areas between the slats need to be filled with silicone or.

Photos of kitchen aprons made of PVC panels and spacer installation technology

Most often, expanded clay or tile. However, installing these materials requires special knowledge and skills, which is why you can increasingly see photos of kitchen decoration with PVC panels. Thanks to the special design of the lamellas, the wall assembly in the apron area is carried out with minimal gaps.

The technology for fastening lamellas into spacers does not involve the use of fasteners, adhesives or lathing structures. This method is used exclusively in small kitchens, where the work area can be covered with one single sheet panel.

Place the panel with the bottom edge on the tabletop and cut the material taking into account the size of the apron.

Install the lamella in the apron area so that the upper edge of the material extends under wall cabinet and pressed him securely. To improve fixation, you can use fasteners in the form of hidden staples.

The lower end is secured with a plinth. This part is fixed to the tabletop and it is better if it is massive and durable.

Note! The advantage of this technology is that if necessary, the lamella can be easily removed to repair the room. The material is not damaged and can be reused.

Instructions for installing PVC panels on walls over a lathing frame

Before covering the wall with PVC panels, the surface should be cleaned. There is no need for serious leveling, but if you plan to finish a bathroom, kitchen or other wet room, it is recommended to waterproof the walls and coat them with an antiseptic.

To form the lathing structure, wood blocks measuring 2x2 cm can be used. They are much cheaper than metal elements. However, it is not recommended to use wooden sheathing for rooms with high humidity levels. Before using wood, it must be thoroughly dried so that the moisture content of the material reaches the permissible norm - 12-15%. Don't forget to pre-treat the bars with an antiseptic.

To equip a metal frame, you will need a profile element UD (contour part) and CD (guides).

Regardless of whether you make ceilings from PVC panels with your own hands or sheathe walls, the construction of a lathing structure should begin with markings. If you are working with walls, you first need to determine the lower level, taking into account the further installation of the baseboard. As a guide, you need to take the most protruding point of the wall. It is she who will determine the indentation of the sheathing.

Helpful advice! For wooden sheathing, another 2-3 mm should be added to the resulting indentation, since wood is subject to deformation changes under the influence of temperature and moisture.

After this, the line of the upper level (with a reference to the ceiling) and the side levels is determined. It is recommended to use a building level to control the upper and lower zones, and a plumb line for side elements.

How to attach a PVC wall panel: working with frame and cladding

The sheathing elements are fixed using direct hangers. The screws are spaced in increments of 20-25 cm ( wooden frame) or 15-25 cm (metal frame). The installation of bars or metal profiles is carried out first along the edge, then inside the structure. This will ensure reliable fixation of the trim around the edges.

When installing internal profiles, it is worth considering the type of panel installation you have chosen - horizontal or vertical. The slats will subsequently have to be attached perpendicular to the guides fixed with screws.

Scheme for installing panels on the sheathing:

Installation of external and internal moldings.

Installation of the first panel and fixation with a clamp (the tenon of the lamella must fit into the profile).

Install the second panel into the groove of the previously installed lamella and fix it in a similar way.

Installation of material to the end of the wall.

Cut the last panel, taking into account that the finishing material should be installed all the way to the corner area. In this case, a gap of 2-3 mm should form between the tenon of the last element and the groove of the previous lamella. The cut side should be placed in the profile and the final element should be inserted into place.

For a more detailed look at installing PVC wall panels with your own hands, use the video - an overview of this procedure.

Note! If you want to hide, the first panel must be fixed strictly in the corner area, and all subsequent elements must be installed closely. On one of the corner elements, you need to remove the tenon so that a groove appears at the end. The hook brackets, which are installed on the second profile element, will be pushed here. The next lamella in the corner zone will be placed in the starting profile element.

Formation of suspended ceilings from PVC panels: photos of structures and technology

The moisture-resistant properties of polyvinyl chloride panels are also useful for arranging suspended ceilings.

This material is used for arranging ceilings in various rooms:

kitchen;

toilet;

shower, sauna or bath;

hallway;

balcony or loggia.

In most cases, in the photo of ceilings made of PVC panels in the kitchen, you can see a material that imitates 10 cm wide lining. This finish allows you to easily install spotlights in a suspended ceiling structure.

Other design options for lamellas can be used for decoration:

imitating wood or natural marble stone;

matte or glossy;

plain or covered with ornaments;

decorated with printing or thermal film.

Before making suspended ceilings from PVC panels, it is necessary to calculate the materials. The calculation scheme in this case is very simple, since there are no window or door openings on the ceilings. Material reserve – 15% of the required quantity.

Making a ceiling from PVC panels with your own hands: videos and recommendations

The creation of suspended ceilings is carried out in stages. First you need to calculate the parameters of the lathing, take into account the features of the lighting system, since recessed spotlights of the spotlight type require precise calculations and have a special installation system.

Note! The work will definitely require the help of one more person.

Construction of the lathing structure:

Using a building level, mark the points along the perimeter of the room where the profile elements of the frame base will be installed. The profiles must be fixed strictly horizontally. It is necessary to achieve the closest possible placement to the wall.

Using self-tapping screws, you need to secure the profile elements with transverse placement. They will hold the entire structure.

A profile should be located around the perimeter, forming the letter L. Next, all work on installing and masking the lighting system is carried out.

To install PVC panels with your own hands, use a video review that reflects all the features of the technology for creating suspended ceiling structures.

It should be remembered that the video of installing PVC panels with your own hands in combination with a lighting system does not always reflect all the nuances of this technology. It is recommended that you read additional materials on this topic, since working with electricity requires serious knowledge and can be unsafe. If you do not have the required amount of knowledge and experience, entrust the installation to professionals to avoid accidents, errors in calculations and unnecessary costs.

How to fix it yourself plastic panels to the wall when decorating the interior, what you need to know for this, what tools to use and what is the sequence of work - all this is not difficult to study today. The modern generation of plastic panels, from traditional lining, 6-10 cm wide, to solid panels 25-30 cm, is increasingly used not only in ordinary, standard solutions covering walls “from ceiling to floor”, but also options that claim to be called truly interesting interior solutions that you can implement yourself.

Features of interior solutions for the use of plastic panels

Today plastic is experiencing new era of its development. Thanks to more advanced production technologies, manufacturers have moved away from the use of many harmful components. The current generation of this material is more environmentally friendly and safe. In addition to this, new aesthetic solutions have appeared in the design of panels - monochrome, with an unnatural bright colors, strips of plastic have given way to new, more interesting models. Today, in accordance with the demands of fashion, panels with imitation of valuable wood species, having a rough texture similar to natural wood, connecting to each other without traces of joining, are becoming increasingly popular.

Following such a rapid increase in the quality of plastic products, new solutions immediately began to appear, making it possible to use plastic panels in interior design - from traditional office premises to individual corners of modern homes.

Popular today is the use combined combinations plastic and other textures, for example, decorative plaster, in cladding balconies and loggias, creating panels from various textures and colors.

Design features of panels

At the same time, self-creation Such original interior design solutions are not something special today, because working with plastic does not require special skills or expensive tools, and the panels themselves, like most modern building materials for finishing, are attached very simply.

One of the factors influencing the choice of this particular material is design features panels that allow you to create smooth, seamless surfaces. Various projections, niches and cornices are not an obstacle. After all, unlike wood panels, in addition to the main type of flat panels or strips of plastic with locking connections on the sides, there are also other shaped elements that make it possible to simply and reliably cultivate the edges, internal and external corners, create reliable protection cut end.

An additional convenience is the ease of installation and installation of all necessary communications. Sockets, switches, and ventilation outlets are easily installed in the coating and do not require additional costs for moving to another location.

The main types of panels are mounted in both vertical and horizontal positions. And due to their light weight, they do not require a large amount of fastening materials. Therefore, the process of independently attaching plastic panels to the wall is extremely simple.

Preparatory work. What to pay attention to

When starting the practical implementation of the project, that is, installing PVC panels with your own hands, you should first carry out a number of preparatory work:

clear workplace– fitting plastic panels requires a lot of free space;

It is strongly recommended to clean the walls planned for covering from dust, old coatings, such as wallpaper, and treat them with a primer deep penetration with mandatory antifungal effect;

using a long rule or building level, check the correctness of the wall plane and determine the greatest irregularities - depressions, bulges, distortions;

Important! Before starting the sheathing, you need to bring the plastic panels into the room so that they adapt to the temperature and humidity.

Preparatory stage is really important because it allows you to prepare the surface for further work and avoid mistakes that will be visible almost immediately. A special feature of modern plastic panels is their ability to show even small irregularities - glossy surface will immediately demonstrate where the mistake was made.

Fastening technology

For self-assembly of plastic panels to the wall, two main methods are used today. The first, most common, is using prepared mounting rails. This is the most common fastening method today, although there are varieties this method, for example, installing panels first on a frame base, and then attaching them to the wall. But basically this is the traditional installation of guide rails to the load-bearing surface, and only then the plastic itself.

The second, less common option is to use assembly adhesive as a means of installing PVC panels. This is a somewhat unconventional approach, since it requires a well-prepared wall surface, selection of the appropriate adhesive composition, and careful preparation of the glued surface of the plastic itself. However, this saves space, since there are no slats and the risk of insects colonizing the cavities is minimized. However, this is a very labor-intensive and costly installation method, both in terms of time and cost.

Attention! Plastic panels can only be attached with glue to pre-leveled walls.

Fastening the sheathing

Sequence of work on self-installation plastic lining, taking into account the conditions of each specific room, can be arranged in the following algorithm of actions:

preparatory stage - removing unnecessary things and furniture, cleaning the surface of the walls from wallpaper and priming them;

marking walls for sheathing, taking into account the passage of communications and the features of the interior solution for laying panels;

installation of sheathing;

installation of the starting ceiling profile, plinth, first corner profile;

installation of panel strips;

installation of external elements engineering communications– switches, sockets, air ducts, heating pipes, water pipes, gas pipes;

The most important point, in addition to installing the panel strips, is fastening the sheathing, which acts as a frame for the plastic. Sheathing strips can be wooden or plastic. Traditionally, wooden slats are used, as they help support the structure and give rigidity to the panels. Wood allows you to eliminate unevenness in the wall and thereby ensure a smooth surface of the plastic. One of the disadvantages of wooden planks as a frame is that such planks are prone to rotting, and the space between the wall and the plastic increases by up to 2 cm.

Plastic guides make it possible to minimize the gap between the wall and the panel; they do not rot, but require perfect flat surface walls and the use of special panel holder brackets - clamps - as fasteners.

When choosing a way to independently attach plastic panels to the wall, you need to take into account one more feature of plastic - it reacts to temperature and expands when it rises, so for reliable fixation you need to take into account the lathing pitch - 30-50 cm. This step is enough to hold panels.

The sheathing slats are arranged perpendicular to the direction of the panel strips, the lower rail is mounted at a height of 5-10 cm from the floor, the upper one at the same distance from the ceiling, in the case of installing panels at the full height of the wall.

To install the slats you will need:

hammer drill with a set of drills;

screwdriver with a set of bits;

wood saw;

jigsaw;

assembly saw;

drill with a set of drills;

screwdrivers;

hammer;

The slats are fastened using quick installation nails into through holes; it is preferable to use quick installation systems with dowels 80 mm long for wooden slats and 60 mm long for a plastic rail. Nails are installed at least every 80 cm.

For a plastic guide, the fastening points correspond to the technological holes.

Installation of plastic panels

Installation begins with the installation of the lower guide profile (plinth) and the upper ceiling starting profile from shaped elements. It is preferable that the profile be selected along the length of the entire room. The first bar, adjusted in height (it needs to be made slightly smaller by 5-7 mm), is attached to the corner profile. Installation is carried out vertically in level (or at an angle if design solution requires an angle of inclination). The first strip is secured with staples, small nails or clamps.

The second and subsequent strips are attached after the locking connection is tightly fitted. Can be used for tighter fixation wooden block and a mallet - the block is placed at the end of the plastic panel and with light blows of the mallet the panel is put in place.

To work with plastic you will need:

tape measure, ruler, corner, marker, and possibly a protractor;

level or plumb line;

glue gun and assembly adhesive (for gluing ceiling plinths);

hammer;

assembly saw with a disk for finishing cuts (a disk with small or very small teeth);

miter box, at least with angles of 45 and 90 degrees.

A special feature of this stage is the need to correctly adjust the panel to size, and it is recommended to make the cut with a jigsaw or mounting saw. The cut should be smooth, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is preferable to use a saw with small teeth, which results in a more accurate cut. Before installation in the guides, you need to thoroughly clean the sections from sawdust and sintered plastic, and also smooth out any unevenness.

In rooms where air temperature fluctuations are small and the plastic will not be subject to frequent expansion and contraction, it is recommended to fasten the plastic panels to the sheathing using a construction stapler.

Gradually covering the entire surface of the wall with panels, the outer panel is cut according to size, taking into account the size of the corner profile. The dressed corner profile with the outermost strip of plastic is secured with clamps on the adjacent wall. Thus, all panels in the room are installed.

The edge panel, cut to size, is mounted in the groove of the lock, first at the bottom, in the wall panel, and then gradually, using a plaster spatula 90-100 mm wide, carefully bending the edges of the plinth and corner, inserted further, going up.

The bent edges of the corner panel and ceiling profile will fall into place over time, without visible signs of deformation.

In fact, attaching plastic panels to the wall yourself is much easier than it seems. Follow the recommendations described above and you will succeed. Good luck!

Various decorative panels are no longer a luxury; almost everyone can afford them! Ease of installation, high-quality decor – these are the main criteria for such finishing. What is it like to correctly attach wall panels, and how to decorate your home with such materials, we will tell you today!
Fastening wall panels - frame and sheathing
First of all, I would like to highlight the very definition of what decorative panels are against the general background of building materials. Quite often they are used to decorate walls and ceilings, and this type of decor can be seen both in the kitchen and in an ordinary room. In the original, this is a flat strip that can reach a length of 6 meters; on both sides of the material for joining the strips together there are special mounting locks, the technological name for such a tongue-and-groove connection.
The basis of such a connection was used for the first time on a conventional wooden lining. This technology was later adopted by manufacturers of decorative panels. But in any case, this material must somehow be fixed to the wall or ceiling, and the entire structure must be held tightly and firmly. In this case, we must use special fasteners, which in turn must be fixed to the surface that we are going to decorate. The following options can be distinguished as the main methods of fastening the lining:
Fastening with glue; in this case, a special adhesive composition is applied to the panel, and it is pressed tightly against the wall. When dry, the glue serves as a kind of fastener, which, as practice shows, performs its functions quite well.
Fastening to the sheathing; in case you have uneven walls, or it is technologically impossible to use the adhesive method, to install the lining, an additional sheathing of wooden slats. By mounting the structure, we level the plane, and as a result we get a frame. Next, the lining is fastened to the wall by joining the panels together, while the material is nailed to the frame itself with small nails or staples are used.
Frame made of metal profile; This method is the most acceptable at present. As for the metal frame, such a structure will never perform better than wood. Also, the metal profile wins in price, which is a positive thing. But in order to secure the panel to the finished structure, it is imperative to use a special fastener for lining: a clamp!

When choosing a method for installing decorative panels, take into account the characteristics of the room: the presence of moisture, environmental influences. As a rule, when high humidity wooden structures are not recommended.

What kind of clamps are these for fastening the lining?
As a result of the fact that the use of small nails when connecting lining panels causes a number of side effects, namely bulging, damage to the joint, a solution was found in the form of a special universal device, the name of which is a clamper. “What is its versatility,” you ask! It is this detail that allows for high-quality installation of various panels. At the same time, it fits tightly to the base of the surface, without creating bumps or damaging the panel locks.
By appearance clamps for fastening lining are small staples, their sizes may vary, but usually they do not exceed 50 millimeters. There are two teeth above the plane, they play the role of clamping the panel, using hook technology to fit tightly into the groove of the panel. Moreover, the installation of such a clip can be carried out in different ways. For example, if we use a wooden sheathing, then the fasteners are simply mounted using nails, and if there is a metal frame, then so-called “bugs” are needed for fastening.
It is worth noting that these fasteners are suitable for almost all types of decorative finishing panels. The main condition for using a clip is the presence of a tongue-and-groove connection on the material. In practice, fastening the lining with clamps is carried out quite quickly, and in repairs, the speed of work is almost the main condition.

Fastening wall panels - step-by-step instructions
Let's now move from theory to practice and try to figure out step by step how to install decorative lining. As an example, we will use a ready-made frame made of a metal profile, which was prepared in advance according to all technological rules. Well, and, of course, it is impossible to fasten wall panels without the appropriate tools that we will need in our work.
We will need a screwdriver, a measuring tape, a bit for tightening screws, a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, and a flat-tipped screwdriver. Don’t forget to prepare the “bug bugs” screws, as well as the most important element- kleimer. When all the tools are assembled, you can safely begin installing the panels on the finished frame.
How to attach wall panels - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Measure the work plane
First of all, we need to make control measurements on all planes and determine the future length of the material. If you have flat floors and the difference across the entire plane is minimal, you can immediately cut the panels the right size and then install them. If the floors are uneven, then it is better, of course, to take step-by-step measurements, and thus avoid the appearance of cracks at the junctions with the floor and ceiling.
Step 2: Install the first strip
Now with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw cut the strip to the required size and install it at the mounting location. Installation of panels should begin from the corner, usually from the left. The first panel is installed with a “tenon” in the corner, thus leaving the “groove” open for subsequent connection of the structure. Using a building level, we align the strip vertically and evenly. If we have a gap on the “tenon” side, it can be carefully trimmed in accordance with the plane of contact.
Step 3: Attaching the lining to the wall: use a clamp
The time has come to secure the installed panel to the frame; to do this, we take our fasteners, the so-called clip, and insert the teeth into the groove, pressing it tightly. It should be noted that according to fastening technology, four clamps are usually enough for a length of 2 meters, but if you have doubts about the strength of the structure, the number of fastenings can be increased. The fastener is installed in place, and now it needs to be secured, for this we arm ourselves with a screwdriver and use “bugs”. While using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw may turn the clip, and you will not be able to hold it firmly with your hands, otherwise you may even get injured. To prevent this from happening, we have prepared a screwdriver; it will help us press and hold the fasteners in place. We fasten the clips along the entire length of the strip, tightening the screws.
Step 4: Installing panels over the entire plane
After the first strip is laid out and secured according to all the rules, we can further assemble our structure. We cut a strip of the required size, insert the “tenon” into the “groove” of the already installed panel and install the fasteners. Thus, we cover the entire plane that is subject to such decoration. It is possible that the last strip that will rest against the wall will not match the dimensions, and it will need to be cut along its entire length. Of course, we will lose the groove and will not be able to secure the last strip; in this case, professionals advise fastening the final panel with special glue, “liquid nails”.
In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this method can also be used to fasten PVC wall panels. Plastic lining also has tongue-and-groove connections, plus, using such fasteners, we reduce the risk of damaging the surface of the plastic to zero.

PVC panels are a practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and the variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not just cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so decorating walls with plastic panels is an excellent option for a novice craftsman.

Selecting panels for finishing

The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to understand. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself in advance with the characteristics of this material and its varieties. You should only consider certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly fade.

The main advantages of plastic panels:

The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the technology of applying the pattern - into film and printed.

Standard sizes:

width from 200 to 350 mm;

length from 2700 to 3000 mm;

thickness from 8 to 10 mm.

The strength of the material depends not only on the thickness of the walls, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic bends, the panel will not last long.

Besides, You should not buy panels if:

comparison table characteristics of PVC panels (for comparison, plastic panels with a flexo printing coating type, 0.25 m wide and 3 m long, are taken)

Indicator/panel PVC panel TM Decomax Average Chinese panel Average European panel
Front surface thickness, mm 2,5 1,5 2,0
Number of stiffeners, pcs. 29 20 29
Condition of the stiffeners smooth, without deformation smooth, there are minor deformations smooth, without deformation
PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m 2,2 1,7 2,0
Appearance The coating is smooth, but with obvious gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformations The coating is smooth, without the appearance of stiffening ribs
Raw materials after slight pressure the panel becomes deformed, which proves the high chalk content after a little pressing the panel accepts its original appearance, which indicates a low chalk content
Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Preparatory stage

Preliminary calculations

You need to start with quantity calculations finishing material so that you don’t have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. The panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the wishes of the apartment owners. When mounting vertically, the number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. To the resulting number add 2-3 lamellas in reserve.

For horizontal installation, measure the area of the room minus door and window openings and divide by the area of one panel. Here the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the sheathing pitch, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the slats in linear meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we obtain the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.

Methods for attaching lamellas

There are three ways to secure the panels to the wall - using glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very even and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal “Moment-installation” or “liquid nails”.

The use of this method simplifies and reduces the cost of the installation process, since there is no need to attach the sheathing. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel; during subsequent repairs it is difficult to remove the covering from the wall.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is reliable and convenient option, which does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will take a long time. Disadvantages of this method: a wooden frame is better suited for self-tapping screws, so additional time is spent cutting the timber and processing it

The third option is the most optimal. The clamps are conveniently and quickly attached to the sheathing and securely fix the panels to the wall. The lathing is mounted from a metal profile, assembly of the covering is carried out effortlessly. A damaged lamella can be easily replaced with a new one; dismantling the finish also does not take much time.

Tools and necessary materials

During the work, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:

fine-toothed hacksaw;

pencil and tape measure;

level;

square;

plastic panels;

slats or plastic profile;

dowel-nails, screws or clamps;

screwdriver;

perforator;

antiseptic composition;

sealant;

ceiling plinth.

Preparing the walls

Before covering the walls with panels, you need to clear the old coating, seal every single crack, noticeable defects and treat the surface with an antifungal agent. Thanks to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If the installation will be carried out on a frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Installation of plastic panels

Step 1. Marking the walls

The sheathing should be fastened strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure out each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the sheathing should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so mark a point at this height on the wall with a pencil, and then use a level to draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the trim if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Next, measure 40-50 cm upward from the bottom line, place a beacon, and so on until the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The marking is ready.

The panels must be attached to the sheathing perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make markup for vertical sheathing, the first line is drawn in the corner from ceiling to floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the remaining lines in increments of 50 cm.

Step 2. Installation of the sheathing

If wood is used for the sheathing, all slats must be primed with an antiseptic agent in advance. Along the marking lines, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and secured to the wall. Where the walls are uneven, wooden wedges are placed under the sheathing. If wiring runs along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, take measurements, drill holes in the wall and secure the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.

Step 3. Attaching the slats

The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.

Take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to length with a hacksaw. One edge of the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing from the back.

The second lamella is inserted into the mounting groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame slats.

To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly coated with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in exactly the same way.

Holes are cut out in the panels for switches and sockets using a sharp knife, and after installation these areas are closed. plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires cutting in width, so first try it on the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

Step 4. Installing moldings

After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and smooth, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and connections are covered with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.

Finally, decorative molding is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and plastic molding is attached around the perimeter of the floor. At this point, finishing the walls with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful use, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repairs.

Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels