Insulate the summer bath. Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands - the mission is possible

Materials used in arranging steam rooms
Insulation of steam room walls from the inside
Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Insulating the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bathhouse will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of a given room can be called high-quality if insulation work has been carried out on the ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be maintained high temperature. At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and insulating the steam room from the inside will help achieve the required level of thermal protection.

When constructing a bathhouse building, this room should be equipped according to all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room is, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the longer the steam that affects the steam will be able to remain in it. human body beneficial influence.

Regardless of the material of construction of the bathhouse, the insulation process certainly consists of thermal insulation ceiling, flooring and walls.

To produce internal insulation of the steam room, in former times people used exclusively environmentally friendly clean materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to rotting.

Modern materials meet many of the requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high air humidity well;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to thermally insulate the steam room from the inside, the following building materials are used:

• wooden slats(for arranging the sheathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete solution;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before insulating the steam room in the bathhouse from the inside, you should prepare the following tools:

• spatula;
• hammer;
• nails;
• hacksaw (for cutting insulation).

For internal lining Steam rooms are most often chosen using wooden slats, boards or lining, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building.

It is wood that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Low-density deciduous wood is ideal - alder, maple, linden and aspen. Regarding coniferous trees, then at high temperatures their wood will begin to release resin.

Insulation of steam room walls from the inside

Properly performed insulation of the walls of a steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro- and heat insulating.

Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. If it penetrates into the insulation, this material may become wet and lose all its properties (more details: “How and with what to insulate the inside of a bathhouse - tips from the master”).

Most often, a vapor barrier is installed using aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo).

At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor barriers as roofing felt, polyethylene, glassine when covering a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil prevents the insulation from getting wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained indoors for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture. The fact is that poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely such air in the steam room, can trigger the onset of the rotting process.

The appearance of mold and mildew on walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health. Read also: “How to insulate a frame bath - nuances from the master.”

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the panels must be sealed with tape to prevent steam and condensation from penetrating into the insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are installed using a construction stapler.

The next layer when creating thermal protection for the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is made using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above-mentioned insulation materials is an environmentally friendly natural product.

But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, it is necessary by all possible means to prevent the penetration of moist air, so this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films. Read also: “How to insulate a bathhouse from expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside and outside.”

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore can be used to insulate a steam room with inside. When insulating a steam room from the inside, the step-by-step instructions suggest that work should begin by fixing a wooden sheathing to the walls, to which the insulation is then mounted.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since warm air flows always rise upward. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the room side, but also from the attic side.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling on the steam room side is carried out in the same way as it is done with walls.

First of all, the wooden sheathing is fixed. Then a thermal insulation material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. It is covered with a vapor barrier on top, and an outer finishing layer is installed on it - most often lining.

As for the ceiling on the attic side, it can additionally be insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Near the chimney pipe for protection fire safety special mastics are used.

Currently, various floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with expanded polystyrene. This material has a high mechanical strength, fairly low thermal conductivity, and in addition, once in a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When using it to insulate a steam room from the inside - step by step work looks like this:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on a prepared, level base using a special film, on which polystyrene foam boards are laid tightly one to the other.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase its service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the polystyrene foam and concrete mortar is poured.

   When performing work, you must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure water drainage.

3. After the concrete has completely hardened, which usually takes about a month, you can begin laying the finishing floor surface.

   A good option is to lay ceramic tiles. Read also: “How and with what to insulate a bathhouse from the outside - options and examples.”

You can also insulate the steam room floor using a natural material such as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts perlite and part water, mix and combine with cement.

How and with what to insulate a bathhouse, sauna, steam room from the inside and outside

Mix the whole mass thoroughly.

The base of the steam room floor is poured concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then the screed is made again and the work is completed with a finishing floor covering made of finishing material.

Sometimes in a steam room, wooden gratings are placed on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, which should be periodically dried during operation to avoid rotting and rapid deterioration.

Features of materials for thermal protection
Insulation of different types of walls
Selection of insulation materials
Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors
Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceilings

The microclimate in the bathhouse is unique. Proper arrangement of the building involves insulating the bathhouse inside. This process is labor-intensive, but completely doable on your own.

Information on how to properly insulate a bathhouse inside will allow the owner to significantly improve its performance. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

When deciding how to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, you should take into account a number of factors:

• properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
• personal construction skills and capabilities;
• own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To decide how and how best to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to know the conditions under which the materials will be used:

1. First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room the air is characterized by high humidity.

   It is unlikely to be dry in the dressing room. Taking these factors into account, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing.

2. In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees.

   Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to release substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic panels and linoleum cannot be used to decorate the steam room. In the first case, the products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.

3. A significant part of the thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation.

   To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bathhouse on the inside walls must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside depends on the type of material from which it is built:

1. If it is brick, stone or concrete products, thermal protection is required.

   The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bathhouse will have wet walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be selected taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.

2. Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath?? On the one hand, thermal protection of the building will not hurt, but on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room.

   Of course, insulation is required for baths made of timber, with walls no more than 15 centimeters thick. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

On the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is provided with waterproofing and clapboard finishing. Lathing is only suitable if there are rubble on the walls.

Horizontally located strips of vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5-centimeter overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material.

First, the lower fabrics are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to high temperatures.

Selection of insulation materials

The optimal solution for insulating a bathhouse from the inside is considered to be basalt wool. Hard mats of 10 cm thickness are used.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside

When thermally protecting the ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bathhouse inside, you still need to have the following materials at your disposal:

1. For sheathing. The most reliable option for bath buildings made of brick or stone is to build a frame from a profile used for plasterboard (read: “How to insulate brick bathhouse with your own hands correctly").

   Often the CD ceiling profile is chosen, and the UD guide profile is used to make edging along the perimeter of the walls. The fixation step for direct hangers is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made smaller by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation boards. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.

2. For water vapor barrier.

   A heat-resistant material with foil is required that is impermeable to moisture and steam. The construction market has large selection such products. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees.

   This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. Thus, a 3-millimeter thick layer of Penotherm provides the same level of thermal protection as a 150-millimeter beam.

3. For finishing . Usually the insulation is placed in the bathhouse under the lining, as in the photo.

   This material is produced for final finishing from linden or aspen, since products of these wood species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When deciding how to insulate a bathhouse inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance of the ceiling and walls.

True, a cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To thermally insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms there is no need to be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition.

For protection plastic windows foam self-adhesive strips are used.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bathhouse inside, depends on the type of floor covering. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wooden floor, and boards are mounted on top of the leveled backfill.

They begin to equip a concrete leaky floor by digging a pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:

• sand –5 centimeters;
• polystyrene foam – 20 centimeters;
• concrete mixed in a 1:1 ratio with foam chips - 5 centimeters;
• waterproofing;
• concrete combined with vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio (so called natural material, having low thermal conductivity) – 5 centimeters;
• reinforced screed –5 centimeters.

During the process of pouring the base, it is necessary to arrange a slope.

A boardwalk is installed on top of the concrete screed on the joists.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base in a layer of 10-20 centimeters, this can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. Mount on top of this layer reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high.

Then, as a rule, the tiles are laid. Despite the fact that the tiles in the steam room do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide wooden coasters for your feet to make your visit to the bathhouse more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceilings

Insulating the walls and ceiling of a bathhouse from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, but special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating the sheathing. The procedure for how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside suggests that the distance from the sheathing to the base of the wall or ceiling needs to be made slightly greater than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using hangers, and the block is nailed down using a backing, which can be a piece of block.

Galvanized hangers are also used for wooden sheathing.

The sequence for attaching the profile is as follows:

1. A UD guide profile is fixed along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, observing a 60-centimeter step. It is mounted to timber or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws and plastic dowels.
2. The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account that the gap between them should allow the laying of heat insulation slabs without trimming.

   Then the hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.

3. To install and fix CD profiles to the hangers, use metal screws 9 millimeters long. The free edges of the hangers need to be folded.

Stage two - installation of insulation. Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Insulation of a ventilated façade or loggias is carried out in a similar way. The work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses.

The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, when they get on the human mucosa, they greatly irritate it.

For cutting slabs use a standard sharp knife. The insulation should not be crushed during installation.

Regarding how best to insulate a bathhouse, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the smaller its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - vapor and waterproofing device. Strips of material are fixed horizontally from bottom to top, maintaining a 5-centimeter overlap.

The foil side of the insulation should be facing inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the sheathing is made. So, before you insulate the steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. If there is a galvanized profile, the strips are secured with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints must be taped with the same tape.

Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage four - paneling. To make the room cozy and beautiful after completion of insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• drill - screwdriver;
• rasp (required when adjusting and processing the edge of the lining);
• construction square (necessary for marking boards);
• level and plumb line (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
• metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
• copper or galvanized screws, which are needed for fastening the clamps to the bars;
• metal screws;
• wooden baseboards for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to consider a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer.

In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are installed along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The end boards in each row of the lining should be fastened with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the baseboard. All other boards will be held in place by clamps.

The above-described procedure for carrying out work allows you to both insulate an old bathhouse from the inside and a completely new building. Thermal protection of a bath structure is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality.

The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

The bath has always been known for its improvements that improve health. “A few bones will not break, but they will heal,” they said in the old days.

However, immediately after building a bathroom, every owner asks: how to insulate it to reduce heating costs?

At the end of the day, the importance of a bathtub is that the building retains heat and necessary humidity for as long as possible without wasting energy.

It should be remembered here that insulating a bathtub from the inside with your own hands is a complex process and directly depends on various factors - on the climate in which the material is being built.

All these issues are analyzed step by step.

They are usually baths

Based on the type of housing construction, four main, most common types can be distinguished:

• brick;
• frame;
• Block;
• Logs (log houses).

Therefore, according to this factor, it is necessary to select the optimal insulating material.

What are the requirements that have been proposed in order for the bath to heat up quickly and retain heat for a long time?

When choosing a heater, pay attention to the following features:

• It should not absorb moisture;
• They create it from environmentally friendly materials;
• Be resistant to high temperature, non-flammable;
• They are sufficiently resistant to moisture;
• Have good options to keep your shape stable.

From these technical properties it is quite easy to choose the quality, insulation, which will provide good thermal insulation your bath.

Examples of such materials can lead to a lot, so we will limit ourselves to the most popular and universal ones.

These include:

• Mineral wool;
• Ecowool and other organic heaters;
• Extruded polystyrene foam;
• TECHNOVENT;
• Technoblock.

We are bathing in the bath

The first thing that begins the heating process is the foundation.

Remember this important phase as you insulate the entire bath, including the ground - frost will still penetrate through the floor.

Thermal insulation of foundations should be divided into two stages.

We are moving the underground part.

How to insulate a bathtub from the inside - brick, frame, blocks and logs

After a long time of trial and error, you can confidently say that clay is the ideal material for this purpose.

Pedestal. The choice here is quite wide, but experts recommend using polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

Work options:

We then move on to insulating the floor.

If the floors are wooden, then the simplest and convenient option is to use insulating insulation, such as slag or foamed clay, on the same layer that is mounted directly on the slabs.

If, in addition as a layer, you lie between the mineral wool core and the floor slabs, then the best insulation is difficult to think about.

If we are dealing with concrete floors, an insulating layer must be laid between two layers.

The first is a rough covering that is placed on the heater - for example, IZOSPAN or roofing cards, according to which there is a second layer of concrete, on top of which it is possible to install tiles.

Log house

The best and time-tested method of heating logs is the classic insulating “pie”.

It is best to use mineral wool as a material, the layer of which, by the way, can be one and a half or more times less than what is required to heat the brick structure.

At the same time, low thermal conductivity, fire resistance and environmental friendliness ensure reliable wall insulation.

Brick bath

In order to easily freeze the walls without harming the experience of using the bathtub, it is recommended to insulate them by installing interior walls.

Of course the best interior walls- this is a tree.

To properly implement insulation, it is necessary to make a box through the external walls filled with thermal insulation material.

In addition, it is necessary to use waterproofing and install internal walls above the second box. As an insulation material, reeds will create reeds like nothing else.

Keep in mind that the inside is treated with fire retardant and 3% glassy solution, which will save you from disintegration.

Warming your bathtub with your own hands is a very important point.

Block bath

Even though cinder and foam blocks are excellent insulators on their own, they still have the potential to freeze.

An important point in insulating a block bath is to remove heating circuit from the walls.

Further heating can be done using the same "pie" method if the material used is wool fiber.

Thus, the wooden frame is applied to the walls, and then to the thermal insulation. After this, a protective layer is applied to the plate and then completed.

Frame sauna

The Canadian type of swimsuit provides the most insulation.

For this purpose, a large insulating substance is added to each window frame, after which layers of water and vapor protection are used in succession.

Since the structure becomes clear, the optimal insulation is mineral wool.

On the inside of the thermos, you can further insulate it using a cylinder heater.

The rest should be placed on top of the skeleton, ending finishing work- and the bath is ready.

Basic subtle things

If you decide to find out about bath warming through internal warming, you should remember the following:

• No matter what material is used, there should be no voids or caves between it and the walls;
• Consider a constant ventilation distance to ensure drying of the internal plates;
• Corners in the bathroom are a shade that many people forget or rely on the sleeves.

  Corner for heating corners using insulating fasteners in the form of a specialized tape;

• All soils must be covered with biocidal and fire-resistant compounds.

Get serious about your future bath and use it for a very long time, without having to constantly adjust anything or consume huge amounts of heat to maintain the temperature and healing steam.

Materials used for insulation
Thermal insulation of floors in bricks
Features of thermal insulation of walls in swimming pools
The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

Often they built their bathrooms out of brick. After construction, one of the important stages is to insulate the brick bathtub from the inside. The fact is that the walls of this material cannot retain heat for a long time.

When building a brick bath, heating walls can be used with various building materials.

Do-it-yourself heated baths from the inside - mission possible

It provides high-quality heat protection for a long time to keep inside buildings, help in this topic. Read: “How to build a brick sauna - we start with the base and enclosing roof”

Materials used for insulation

Once the walls are in place, the roof is in place and the doors are installed, we continue with the interior finishing of the building. Heating bath bricks must be made in such a way that optimal microclimate and temperature control are maintained in the premises for a long time.

Even decorative finishing walls help maintain heat in the building.

Usually the hands inside the brick bathtub insulation are made by installing a multi-layer thermal insulation structure. One of its armor layers of plates and other foil-based fabric materials, since this type of heat shield completely reflects radiation and protects the insulation from harmful effects to humid air.

To do this job well, you need to know what to insulate the walls of a brick bathtub.

Experts advise using the following materials:

• minibus in rolls or plates;
• glass wool;
• plates made of the porous structure of peat or cellulose;
• reed carpets;
• panels made of polyurethane or polystyrene.

It should be kept in mind that polystyrene-based thermal insulation materials, such as fiberglass, do not have good thermal stability.

Therefore they should not be used when the steam bath is insulated in a brick bath, especially in walls and ceilings. To reduce heat loss through floor coverings, a layer of expanded clay is used as an additional thermal insulator.

The foil-based isolates performed very well. Materials such as foil film are known to be expensive, so kraft paper can be used for interior decoration of low-humidity bathrooms. As a result, you can save money. For example, you can use cheaper materials in your toilet for heating.

Thermal insulation of floors in bricks

Insulation options that are suitable for construction baths are not suitable for thermal protection of bathrooms undergoing major renovations.

But the sequence of work in both cases has much in common.

When insulating a brick bathtub is done from the inside, the diagram stipulates that it should begin with the floor covering. Thermal protection is necessary because a person moves on the surface barefoot, which means that he needs to warm up as much as possible.

Before heating a brick bathhouse from the inside with your hands, you need to create an air gap between the base of the building and the floor coverings.

This will ensure sufficient thermal insulation.

When adjusting gaps based on space, support rods are installed and foamed clay is poured at intervals between them, a layer of which should be approximately twice the thickness of the wall in the building. On the top of the supporting elements of the logs from wooden beams pre-dried and treated with antiseptics.

Panels of heat-insulating materials are located between them, the gap between the cover and the insulating layer, which was formed during operation, must be removed with polyurethane foam.

Then you should place the parchment on the floor and on top of the pile of plywood or plates. The final step is to install the base floor cover.

Features of thermal insulation of walls in swimming pools

After thermal insulation is completed, the floors begin to provide protection for the walls. Before warming up inner part bricks to prevent the growth of bacteria, the walls are impregnated by special means.

This procedure is only necessary for the treatment of some rooms - showers and steam rooms.

There are special features regarding the correct insulation of a brick bathtub (walls in it):

1. To reduce the degree of heat loss, the distance between windows and walls is eliminated with polyurethane foam.
2. The frame on which the body is mounted is made of wooden beams and attached directly to the brick.
3. It is undesirable to use metal profiles and suspensions, since they have the property of realizing thermal energy.
4. A Minvat or polystyrene board is used as a heater installed in the cells that contain the box.
5. Thermal insulation material is attached to the masonry wall with canopies or special adhesives.
6. Before fixing the heat shield, the walls of the bathtubs, which are made of brick, must be treated with a punch coating.

After completing the fixation of the main thermal insulation material on the walls, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer of kraft paper or foil or other materials.

You need to know how to properly heat a steam room in a brick bath, because in a particularly humid room, the kraft paper will be absorbed and soon become useless.

For places like this best film is a film.

If necessary, the rail tracks can be filled with stick, which creates a gap between the outer layer and the vapor barrier. Then, at the control mark, the lining is tied.

If the bathtub has a large square meter, its walls must be insulated on all floors to avoid significant heat loss during operation.

If this is a loggia, this is a thermal insulation object. In addition, to ensure the thermal protection of the building, you will not damage the installation of entrance doors equipped with at least two sealing chains.

The procedure for thermal protection of the ceiling

Cannot be eliminated heat losses in bathrooms without ceiling insulation. This is especially important if they are located in one of the upper buildings.

The sequence of work for installing thermal protection of the ceiling covering the bathtub is as follows:

1. Place glass glass on top of the ceiling and place the tape with the overlay materials.

   They are combined using duct tape or duct tape.

2. Place the solution mixed with clay, chopped straw and river sand at the top of the heater. The thickness of this layer should be about 30 centimeters.
3. Place a layer of foam on top of the clay solution, then pour about 10 centimeters of cement mixture onto it.
4. To improve the thermal insulation performance of the bathing structure, foam can be added to the cement mass, the ratio is 1:3 or even better, 1:4.
5. On the rough surface of the ceiling from the inside, attach containers to containers, between which basalt wool is placed in plates.
6. The film is covered with a thermal insulation product, and the top part is covered with a coating, with a distance of 10 mm between the elements.

If the space is properly insulated internally, heat loss is reduced during operation, meaning your sauna experience will be the most satisfying.

September 2, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

To fully enjoy the bath procedures at own dacha, it is necessary to carefully insulate the room. Otherwise, too much effort and firewood will be spent on achieving and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room.

Today I will tell you how to insulate a sauna from the inside with your own hands. Let's figure out which one better material what to use for this and how to install it on the walls.

Features of insulation of baths and saunas

The method of thermal insulation of a sauna or bathhouse depends on what material and technology the house itself is built from. The instructions presented in this article tell you how to insulate a room whose walls are constructed from profiled timber.

This material itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so it does not require the installation of a thick insulating layer (although everything here depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the building is located).

1. Reduce the time required to warm up the steam room. Due to the reduction in heat loss, the air inside will heat up faster, since the aluminum foil layer reflects infrared rays into the room.
2. Protect the wall material from the destructive effects of moisture. A mandatory element of the insulation cake is vapor and waterproofing, which prevents moist air from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures, destroying them.
3. Prevent damage to walls from temperature fluctuations. A steam room is a room where the air temperature constantly increases and decreases. Such changes are bad for the integrity wooden walls. A layer of insulation retains heat inside, limiting its access to the timber.

Now about the features of the technology relating to the wooden sauna. When choosing insulation material and the procedure itself, you need to consider the following points:

• it is better to take “breathable” material that does not disturb the natural infiltration of air in wooden walls;
• the insulating layer should be well protected from water vapor in the air in the steam room;
• It is imperative to use a heat-reflecting foil layer, which prevents the insulation from absorbing infrared rays (that is, it is not the thermal insulation that will heat up, but the air in the sauna).

Required materials and tools

Let's start with the choice of thermal insulation. I will not now list exotic methods of insulation, which include sprayed polyurethane foam or ecowool, as well as old-fashioned methods - sawdust, dry leaves, and so on.

There are two main options to choose from - polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Since the first material disrupts air infiltration and, when heated strongly, releases substances hazardous to humans, I will not recommend it for work. Therefore, only mineral wool remains.

I’ll tell you a secret, this is the material I really like to use for sauna insulation. And all because it has many advantages.

As a material, I personally chose TechnoNIKOL Rocklight basalt mats, 50 mm thick, dimensions 1200 by 600 mm. They are perfect for solving the tasks at hand. The price of this material is 590 rubles per package of 0.432 cubic meters or 68 rubles per square meter.

But of course, buying insulation will not end with a trip to the store. You also need to stock up on other materials:

1. Wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 mm. They will be used to make lathing for installing mineral mats on the walls.
2. Wooden blocks with a section of 30 by 50 mm. They are needed for floor insulation. These will be the supporting elements on which I will fasten the boards from below before installing the insulating material on them. I will also use them as counter rails on top of the heat reflective foil.
3. Rough boards. Necessary for thermal insulation of the floor (see point above).
4. Wooden eurolining. This will be a finishing material for decorative walls in the sauna. It is necessary to take hardwood paneling, since pine releases a large amount of resin when heated.
5. Galvanized perforated U-shaped hangers. They are usually used to install galvanized profiles, but for me they will hold wooden blocks. Their advantage is that they make it easy and simple to level the walls if they deviate from the vertical.
6. Aluminum foil. If your bathhouse is made according to frame technology or made of brick, the foil can be replaced with penofol, which will serve as additional insulation.
7. Metallized adhesive tape. It seals the joints between adjacent sheets of aluminum foil.

Now about the tools. You will need:

• screwdriver;
• construction stapler with staples;
• stationery knife;
• building level;
• tape measure and other measuring devices;
• brush.

Insulation technology

Insulation inside a sauna involves three stages of work or, as I said, lines of defense, which are reflected in the diagram.

I'll tell you about each of them in more detail.

Line 1 - Thermal insulation of walls

Let's start with the walls. The diagram of the insulating pie for them is shown in the figure below.

The working technology is as follows:

1. I clean the surface of the walls from dust and sawdust. To do this, I take a regular vacuum cleaner (although I also have an industrial Karcher in my arsenal) and, using its brush, suck out all the debris from all the cracks between the beams. Otherwise, small particles of wood can become a source of mold development in the ceiling insulating layer.

1. I remove protruding parts of fasteners (screws, nails, wire) from the wall. These sharp parts may damage waterproofing membrane, which prevents the insulating layer from getting wet as a result of moisture penetrating from above.
2. I treat the surface with an antiseptic. It is necessary to take a composition intended for use in residential premises, which during operation does not release hazardous chemical compounds into the air. The walls are treated with a brush in two layers with intermediate drying for three to four hours. If the beam passed pre-treatment, then it is not necessary to additionally coat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic.

1. I am installing a waterproofing membrane. Some people replace it with thick plastic film, but I still recommend buying special material (for example, Strotex or Juta brands), which protect against water but do not prevent water vapor from escaping from the thermal insulation layer. The installation diagram is as follows:
   • The first sheet of membrane is laid, after which it is secured to wooden beams using staples and a construction stapler.
   • The second and subsequent sheets of the membrane are laid so that the joints of the material overlap and overlap each other at a distance of at least 10 cm.
   • The seams are sealed with a waterproof membrane. To do this, use adhesive tape pasted on top of the joint.

1. I fasten the sheathing bars. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
   • I attach U-shaped brackets to the wall at a distance of 50 cm from each other vertically, which will hold the wooden beams of the frame. The frame can be fixed not only vertically, but also horizontally. This fact does not affect the effectiveness of insulation in any way.
   • I treat wooden parts with antiseptic and fire retardant. These substances will protect the wood from ignition in a fire and prevent the appearance of mold, mildew and other unpleasant microorganisms in the insulating layer. After processing, the wooden blocks must dry completely, which can take up to a day.
   • I install the sheathing parts on the brackets. To do this, self-tapping screws are used that are screwed into side surfaces wooden parts. In this case, you need to ensure that they are all installed strictly vertically and at the same level. Otherwise, problems may arise during the installation of the finishing lining.

• The distance between the beams should be 58-59 cm so that the TechnoNIKOL Rocklight insulation slabs, the width of which, as you know, reaches 60 cm, stand apart and do not fall out during operation.

• After installation is completed, you need to carefully check again that the sheathing bars are installed correctly. This is why U-shaped brackets are needed to easily align the enclosing walls that are slightly inclined in one direction or another.

1. I install the thermal insulation layer into a pre-installed sheathing. For this, as I already said, I took material from the TechnoNikol company. If you clearly follow all the above tips, then no problems will arise. The work flow is as follows:

Entire slabs of mineral wool insulation are inserted into the sheathing. Since the distance between the parts is 58 cm, they are installed by surprise and do not require the use of any other fasteners.

• To insulate other areas (where the slab does not fit entirely), you need to use pre-cut mineral wool. To do this, you need to measure the distance between adjacent frame parts, increase the resulting value by 2 cm, mark and cut the slabs using a sharp utility knife.

1. I am installing a vapor barrier layer. Instead of a conventional polymer membrane, polished aluminum foil will be used here, which is capable of not only retaining water vapor, but also reflecting infrared rays into the room. The work is done as follows:
   • The first sheet of vapor barrier is laid. The roll is positioned horizontally (since my frame is vertical). Work begins from the bottom of the room. The foil is secured to the frame using a construction stapler and staples. You need to act carefully so that there are no gaps in the continuous reflective layer through which moisture can get to the insulation layer.

• The second and subsequent sheets of foil are laid so that an overlap of 10 cm is formed in the area of ​​the joint. This ensures the tightness and homogeneity of the heat-reflecting layer.

• The joints between the sheets of foil must be sealed with a special metallized adhesive tape. To do this, the protective layer of paper is removed from one side of the tape, after which it is glued to the joint of the foil. Perform the operation carefully so as not to damage the heat-reflecting layer.

1. I install counter slats to secure the finish. Their role is played by wooden blocks that are installed on top of a reflective layer of foil. They are necessary in order to leave a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and decorative material. Through this gap, condensed moisture will evaporate without penetrating into the insulating layer.

• Slats for counter-cladding must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting.
• The slats are fixed to the frame through a layer of metallized foil using self-tapping screws so that the caps of the latter do not rise above the surface of the wooden parts.
• The distance between the slats should be from 40 to 60 cm, so that decorative cladding did not sag under load.

1. Installing finishing cladding from linden eurolining. To secure it, I use clamps, which allow me to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated.

Line 2 - Ceiling insulation

I will make the insulation of the ceiling from expanded clay. At the beginning of my work, my ceiling was simply wooden joists, laid across the room - without upper and lower cladding. Therefore, I will describe the insulation technology, starting from this stage:

1. I lined the ceiling from the inside with sheets of moisture-resistant birch plywood FSF 10 mm thick. The scheme of work is as follows:
   • The plywood is secured using self-tapping screws, which must be placed at a distance of 10 cm from each other to ensure the strongest possible base for adding expanded clay. Although this material is lightweight, it doesn’t hurt to play it safe.
   • When fastening plywood, the seams must be spaced apart and a distance of 2-3 mm must be made between them, thanks to which the thermal expansion plywood.
   • To avoid warping of the sheathing, it is also better to make a small gap between the walls and plywood.

1. I attached a layer of heat-reflecting foil to the plywood. You already know the fastening technology from the previous section, so I won’t repeat it. The main thing is to carefully seal all the seams using aluminum adhesive tape.

1. I installed counter slats on the foil, and a wooden lining on them. Proceed in the same way as in the case of wall insulation. There are no differences here.
2. I cleaned the surface of the plywood from dust, debris and shavings from the attic side. Work now continues in the attic. It is necessary to clean the logs from foreign objects and sawdust, which can cause mold to appear in the expanded clay insulating layer.
3. I poured expanded clay into the space between the joists onto a plywood backing. The technology is as simple as possible, but I’ll draw your attention to a few small nuances:
   • The insulation will work effectively if its layer is at least 10 cm. I had logs of the same height, so I poured the granules flush with the top cut of the floor beams.
   • If your joists are higher, then fill the expanded clay evenly (even if the layer is thicker). Otherwise, the procedure for installing the waterproofing film will become more complicated.
   • The size of expanded clay granules does not matter. The more air there is in the thermal insulation layer, the lower the thermal conductivity coefficient it will have.
   • For work, you need to use well-dried material, since the moisture inside can have a very detrimental effect on the integrity and service life of wooden structures, as well as reduce the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

1. Fixed a waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane. I recommend purchasing a polymer material with a permeability of at least 1300 mg per square meter. In this case, the moisture accumulated inside the expanded clay will come out, and the liquid will not get into the insulation layer. The fastening scheme is as follows:

• If expanded clay is poured to the top edge of the beams, then you just need to secure the film on top of the wooden parts using a stapler and staples.
• If the expanded clay does not reach the top, then the film must be lowered down and secured to the side surfaces of the beams using bars. The essence of this operation is to ensure that there is no free space between the insulation and the film, otherwise the membrane will make noise during operation.
• The joints, as in the cases described above, are overlapped and additionally sealed with adhesive tape.

1. Installed counter grille. It is only necessary when the film is attached to the top of the joists. The counter-lattice is made of bars that are attached to wooden parts self-tapping screws.
2. Completed finishing work interfloor covering tongue and groove board. I chose this material because in the future it is planned to arrange a rest room in the attic of the bathhouse. If you do not plan to convert the under-roof space into a living space, you can also replace the boards with plywood.

Line 3 - Floor insulation

Floor insulation is similar to ceiling insulation, with the exception of a few nuances:

• it will not be possible to get under the bottom of the house to secure the covering of the floor joists, there is not so much space there;
• It is necessary to carry out the highest quality waterproofing of the floor, since its surface often experiences direct contact with water (especially in the shower).

Since I didn’t have enough expanded clay, I will use mineral wool to insulate the floor. To make it more clear for you to follow the presentation, I will give a schematic image of an insulating cake for the floor in a sauna:

The sequence of actions that I followed:

1. I attached cranial bars to the lower part of the side surfaces of the floor joists (number 3 in the diagram). To secure them, I used self-tapping screws plus, for strength, galvanized corners used in the construction of frame houses.
2. I fixed a vapor-permeable membrane that prevents the insulation from being moistened by moisture penetrating from below (from under the floor). To do this, the film is fixed on the bars, after which it is wrapped around the floor joists, forming a kind of troughs into which the insulation will be laid.
3. I installed subfloor boards (number 5 in the diagram). They are placed directly on the film so that the ends rest on the cranial bars. This will be the supporting surface on which the thermal insulation material is then laid.

The photo shows laid subfloor boards.

1. I placed mineral wool in the gaps between the joists. Here you will figure it out for yourself, since I paid a lot of attention to this aspect in the previous sections.

1. Placed on top waterproofing film to protect the insulating layer from getting wet.
2. A floor made of tongue and groove boards was laid on top.

In principle, in most cases this is enough. But if the floor is insulated in the shower or you like to splash a lot of water in the steam room, I recommend making another waterproofing layer on top of the boards from polymer mastic, which is tiled. And, if necessary, install wooden drainage ladders on top.

Resume

Now you know how to insulate a sauna from the inside using basalt fiber insulation. But other materials are also used for this. For example, to insulate a floor, you can use polystyrene foam, as described in the video in this article.

What thermal insulation materials do you use to insulate walls from the inside? Or do you prefer to install insulation only on the outside? You can post your answers in the comments to the material.

A special place in the Russian, and not only in the Russian, bathhouse is, of course, given to the steam room. Because it is in this room that the main action takes place - it is in order to experience the healing and refreshing effects of a hard maple broom and a soft park that we visit the steam room. Not only to wash yourself, but also to get a good charge of positive and healthy energy. And since this room is the most important in the bathhouse, and the conditions in it are the most severe, the insulation of the steam room from the inside should be carried out with special care.

As part of this publication, we propose to consider options on how to properly insulate a steam room and how to choose the right insulation materials based on their physical characteristics.

Thermal insulation of the steam room is carried out by the most different materials, ranging from ultra-modern to time-tested. And we will begin our analysis of the characteristics with, perhaps, the most used, but rather outdated material - mineral wool.

Mineral wool

As mentioned above, this material has been known for quite a long time and many experts classify mineral wool as obsolete. Nevertheless, in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics, it is hardly inferior to modern insulation materials. However, this material is quite expensive and is very susceptible to moisture. When wet, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties and begins to rot, transferring this process to adjacent wooden structures. In this case, the steam room will have to be insulated anew.

To prevent this from happening, when insulating the steam room from the inside with mineral wool, you should take care of high-quality and reliable hydro- and vapor barrier insulation of all surfaces insulated with mineral wool, that is, walls and ceilings, with foil vapor and waterproofing insulators. Vapor barrier of a steam room is very, very important, since with properly performed vapor and waterproofing, mineral wool can last a long time without losing its thermal insulation qualities. It is quite possible to replace mineral wool with stone or glass wool.

Now we will briefly consider one of the most modern thermal insulators for steam rooms - polystyrene foam and how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse with this material.

Expanded polystyrene

Why will we write briefly about this material? Yes, because it is not entirely suitable for insulating a steam room in a bathhouse. Although its thermal insulation properties are very, very high, it is not afraid of moisture and rodents and mold do not like it, all these advantages disappear when you find out its other side.

Even though polystyrene foam does not burn, it begins to melt at high temperatures. And everything would be fine. But! When melted, this heat insulator releases toxic substances, which can lead to poisoning. And although many still use it, when answering the question of whether it is possible to use polystyrene foam as insulation for a steam room, we strongly advise against doing so.

Let's move on, in fact, to insulating the steam room from the inside, step-by-step instructions for what follows.

Advice: Before starting insulation measures, we recommend treating all previously cleaned surfaces from dirt and dust with antiseptics and allowing the latter to dry.

We insulate the ceiling

Since insulation and finishing work in any room (and the steam room is no exception) is recommended to be carried out from top to bottom, let's start with the ceiling.

When selecting materials to insulate the ceiling of a steam room, one important nuance should be taken into account: the thickness of the insulation on this surface should be at least twice as thick as on the floor and walls. Because the upper part of the steam room is the main path through which up to 20 percent of the heat, so valuable for a given room, can escape.

Since the ceiling of a steam room is a surface that is constantly exposed to extreme loads (high temperature, high humidity), it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in a steam room using insulating materials that meet the following mandatory requirements:

• Increased resistance to aggressive effects of vapors and moisture, as well as temperature changes;
• Absence of any predisposition to the appearance of harmful bacteria, fungi, mold, as well as colonization from the inside by rodents and insects;
• Good compatibility with flooring and finishing materials;
• Low moisture absorption;
• Environmental cleanliness, as well as safety;
• An increased level of thermal insulation, that is, the possibility of retaining heat in the bathhouse for the longest possible time and the maximum possible complete isolation of it from external rooms and the street;
• Possibility of easy mounting insulation material, without losing its characteristics.

Let's start with the internal insulation of the steam room of the bathhouse. To insulate the steam room from the inside, you need to do the following:

• cover the surface of the ceiling with rolled paper, making a good overlap between the sheets;
• We secure the paper with a lathing made of timber with a cross-section of 50x50 millimeters;
• into the cells of the sheathing we insert layers of insulation cut to the size of the cells;
• We lay a foil insulator on top of the insulating material and secure it with aluminum reinforced tape. The edges and joints are glued especially carefully;
• We lay the foil vapor barrier on top and create a sheathing of bars with a cross-section of 20x30 millimeters. This will ensure high-quality air exchange;
• The final ceiling cladding can be laid on the resulting sheathing.

Separately, it should be said about the ceiling of the steam bath made of logs. In such a room it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling. Sheathing with 60mm boards will be sufficient.

If the bathhouse has attic space, then the ceiling above the steam room should also be thermally insulated with outside. Such insulation is carried out with basalt wool, expanded clay or glass wool.

We insulate the walls

In fact, insulating the walls of the steam room is no different from that for the ceiling. However, we will consider the so-called “design type” of insulation, in which it is possible to dismantle part of the walls at any time in order to replace part of the insulation, sheathing, and so on.

This process is performed as follows:

• We attach vertically narrow slats-beacons to the cobblestone walls. We make marks on the floor under them;
• We attach the racks to the slats using ordinary self-tapping screws. For them it is better to use thermowood or ordinary lining;
• Next, we lay the foil vapor barrier, not forgetting to glue all its joints with aluminum reinforced tape in order to achieve complete tightness. We do not recommend fastening the foil with a construction stapler, as many people do. Since piercing with staples may leave holes in the vapor barrier, which is extremely unacceptable;
• We put a layer of thermal insulation on top of the foil (for example, mineral wool slabs). Next, we apply a coating of another layer of vapor barrier and secure it with a sheathing of thin bars mounted with self-tapping screws;
• We perform surface cladding, for example, with clapboard.

We insulate the floor

Not everyone knows the methods of properly insulating the floor in the steam room of a bathhouse. And there are actually two of these: extruded polystyrene foam (aka penoplex) and perlite. Which one should you choose? And not on which one! We propose to combine them together.

• We begin insulating the floor in the steam room by cleaning it from dirt, dust and debris and, if necessary, leveling it with a cement screed;
• we create reliable waterproofing, by laying film material;
• We lay polystyrene foam boards on the resulting waterproofing layer so as to avoid cavities and gaps;
• install a reinforcing mesh and fill it with concrete;
• after the concrete layer has dried, prepare a perlite solution (mix perlite in a 2x1 ratio with water, adding a small amount of cement) and thin layer cover the concrete screed with the resulting mixture;
• When the perlite layer dries (this happens for about a week), it is recommended to lay another concrete layer on top of it. This will help protect the perlite layer from destruction due to mechanical loads;
• After the concrete floor has completely dried, it can be covered tiles or by laying a removable wooden base. The second option is preferable, since it implies the ability to remove wet boards so that you can take them outside and dry them.

What about polystyrene foam? - the reader will ask. He's harmful. We answer: unlike the ceiling and walls, insulating the floor in a steam room with polystyrene foam is still acceptable. There are two main reasons for this:

1. The floor temperature is never too high and its level is not enough to melt polystyrene foam;
2. When laying polystyrene foam on the floor, it is, as described above, filled with a multilayer concrete screed, which makes it hermetically separated from the steam room.

After completing all insulation work, all surfaces should be carefully sheathed. Sheathing not only gives additional insulation steam room in the bathhouse. It is also important from an aesthetic point of view. Because steaming in a beautiful and clean steam room is much more pleasant.

There are many materials for insulating a bathhouse; there is plenty to choose from. These are mineral wool, basalt, fiberglass and foil foam, as well as various wood sealants. They are equally suitable for any job and are used for both walls and ceilings of steam rooms. When choosing the best way to insulate a bathhouse, take note of a few tips:

1. The packaging must contain information about the thermal conductivity coefficient and the maximum thickness of the material. If the thermal range is indicated instead of exact numbers, then it is better to abandon it.
2. You also need to choose the right density of the material. High performance is not always the positive side. Give preference to those with lower thermal conductivity.
3. The fire safety class should be marked as “GO” or “G1”. The insulation should not be toxic so that when used in the steam room, volatile substances harmful to humans are not released.

An excellent option would be foil penoizol. It does not require additional vapor barrier, and installation is done by hand in a short time without specialized tools.

Insulation of walls from outside - “fur coat” for a bath

A wooden bathhouse is insulated with tow. All inter-crown connections are laid on it. A structure made from rounded logs does not require this, because during processing, special cuts are made in the logs and they fit tightly to each other.

Wall insulation with outside is carried out only in brick baths. This is done according to the principle of a ventilated facade. Used as a material for vapor and waterproofing plastic film, and as insulation - mineral wool.

How to insulate brick walls - work plan:

1. First, a frame made of metal profile, the distance between the guides should be selected based on the size of the insulation so that there is no need to cut it.
2. Mineral wool is placed between the frame elements.
3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film on top to protect the wool from condensation.
4. Joints vapor barrier material taped with tape.
5. The insulation through the vapor barrier is attached to the wall with special dowels, the cap of which has the shape of an umbrella.
6. After this, the walls are sheathed with the chosen finishing material.

There is nothing complicated and all the work on insulating the walls of the bathhouse from the outside can be easily done with your own hands. Thanks to the introduction to the market modern materials such as foil pinotherm, you can do without additional water vapor barrier. It is laid on the wall and the entire structure is sewn up with finishing material.

Insulation of walls from the inside

Having dealt with the external work, you can move on to the next stage. How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? For this, an old, tried and tested method is used - constructing a frame with a layer of thermal insulation material. The principle is similar to the installation of a ventilated facade during insulation of an external wall.

1. First, a frame made of wooden blocks or metal elements. The distance between the frame guides should be equal to the width of the insulation.
2. Then insulation is laid into the finished structure, over which foil waterproofing must be laid overlapping. The joints are glued together with construction tape.
3. The final stage will be the installation of wooden lining.

This method is labor-intensive, but proven over the years. It will not be difficult to insulate the walls of a bathhouse with your own hands, but for clarity, you can watch the video.

Floor insulation

Let us describe the general principle. They are insulated with polystyrene foam, and the diagram looks like this:

1. We level the base as much as possible and lay waterproofing material.
2. We carefully place the insulation on a flat film, filling the voids with cut pieces if necessary.
3. We place a reinforcing mesh on top of this “pie” and fill everything with concrete.
4. After hardening, it is carried out finishing, laying tiles, etc.

Many may ask, why foam plastic? This is the most durable and rigid material of all roll or slab insulation. It can withstand significant mechanical loads without changing its characteristics in a humid environment. Numerous air bubbles are hidden in the thickness of the foam, providing low thermal conductivity. It will not rot or become moldy over time. Essentially this is universal material, it is also used to insulate bathhouse walls both outside and inside.

Ceiling

This is a necessary part because a lot of heat escapes through the roof. Some still use it old-fashioned methods, filling the attic space with soil, straw or sawdust. Today there are more modern options, but the essence of the work has not changed. it is necessary from the outside, that is, from the attic.

You can use expanded clay, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. On the side of the steam room, if the chimney pipe comes out through the top, it is covered with asbestos sheet and coated with fire-retardant mastic. You need to lay foam or mineral wool no closer than 15–20 cm from the pipe. Expanded clay can be poured next to the pipe, since it is absolutely non-flammable material.

The sequence of insulating the ceiling with your own hands:

1. First, we cover the entire surface with waterproofing material.
2. We lay material between the joists. If it is polystyrene foam or mineral wool, cut it according to size, fill it with expanded clay and level it over the entire area.
3. We lay another layer on top of the insulation vapor barrier film and we sew boards on top of the structure - if you need to make a floor in the attic or lay flooring for passage during maintenance of the attic space.

When considering the use of expanded clay, it is necessary to take into account that this material does not have very good thermal conductivity and for normal insulation a thick layer will be required. Think about whether the ceiling will hold up? The most the best options will be rolled or slab insulation.

Entrance door

With comprehensive insulation, you will need to think about this problem. Experts recommend making doors narrow and low. This will significantly reduce heat loss. Well, if you still need additional protection, then let's look at how to insulate the door to the bathhouse with your own hands. There are several methods, varying in complexity of execution.

The first is laying material into the inner cavity of the door. This option requires a two-layer frame structure. The method is labor-intensive and not everyone can do it. At the initial stage, you will have to assemble the door from two panels, with a heat insulator placed inside.

With the second method, you can fix the material on top of the structure. Then close everything decorative coating. This option is simpler. Foil insulation is stuffed onto the canvas, which is hidden under moisture-resistant plywood or other decorative material.

All measures to insulate the bathhouse inside and outside are carried out during the construction stage. An integrated approach and the right choice of material will reduce the cost of heating the steam room and maintain a comfortable room temperature.

Visiting a bathhouse is a pleasant and useful pastime, and high-quality insulation of a bathhouse from the inside will significantly improve all its characteristics. Thanks to the thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling of the steam room from the inside, you can simultaneously save on fuel material and ensure the preservation of heat in the room.

Why is insulating a bathhouse from the inside a good idea?

The bathhouse has a unique microclimate, so thermal insulation is an important aspect in the proper arrangement of any bathhouse. Insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, as well as the ceiling in principle, is a labor-intensive process, but nothing is impossible. When insulating a steam room, several factors should be taken into account: the material used for internal insulation, your capabilities, skills and desires. The choice of material for insulation should be based on its quality characteristics. Required properties must be:

• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing
• fire resistance;
• environmental friendliness of the material.

There is a division of insulation into natural and artificial. If you strive for authenticity and environmental friendliness when building a steam room, then naturalness is your choice. Natural insulation materials include moss, cuckoo flax, felt, hemp, tow, sphagnum, etc. Such materials have their own disadvantages in operation. Without proper treatment with special products, insects and mold will appear.

It is much easier to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands by using artificial materials. They have the best performance qualities: they are fire-resistant, do not rot, and cope well with the task of vapor barrier. Installation of such insulation will take less time than installation of natural materials.

Materials for insulating a bathhouse from the inside: what to add to your shopping list?

Buying insulation for a bath comes down not only to the ability to choose natural or artificial materials, you should also take into account some factors: the purpose of the materials, appearance and price. Depending on the mechanical properties, materials for thermal insulation can be roughly divided as follows:

• backfills of various densities;
• mats, plates, fibers;
• wall blocks and slabs.

By chemical composition insulation materials are distinguished:

• organic (ecowool, fiberboard, wood concrete);
• inorganic (glass wool, mineral wool, basalt fiber);
• techno-insulation materials (technoblock, technovet);
• insulation materials based on plastics (expanded polystyrene, foam).

All these materials have both advantages and disadvantages. For example, it is better not to use plastic-based insulation to insulate a steam room from the inside. This is due to their easy flammability. But they are well suited for thermal insulation of other rooms of the bathhouse: dressing room, rest room.

Organic substances, in turn, are environmentally friendly and relatively cheap, but without treatment with special means they are also highly flammable. Inorganic substances are more versatile and practical: fire-resistant, durable, moisture-proof, and not susceptible to rotting. This explains the popularity of using mineral wool in insulation.

Materials used for vapor barrier of the bathhouse from the inside:

• roofing felt;
• glassine;
• polyethylene;
• aluminum foil.

Roofing felt and glassine cannot be used for vapor barrier in a steam room, since under the influence of high temperatures they begin to release harmful chemicals. Glassine is often used in the insulation of baths, having proven itself well in combination with lining - aluminum foil - mineral wool - log house.

By choosing aluminum foil for the steam room vapor barrier, you will significantly reduce energy costs to maintain the required temperature. The foil, like a mirror, will reflect the heat in the bathhouse.

Operation ‘do-it-yourself insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside’

There is a fairly common, one might say traditional, scheme for insulating walls using fiber insulation and lining.

1. It is necessary to create a frame on work surface load-bearing wall. A horizontal and vertical timber sheathing is attached to the wall. The thickness of the timber should exceed the thickness of the insulation itself by 20–30 mm. Such a reserve is necessary so that the insulation layer does not wrinkle, does not slip and retains its properties.
2. The wall is covered with mineral wool (or other material of your choice).
3. A layer of vapor barrier (foil vapor barrier, foil) is applied on top of the insulation. It needs to be overlapped, the joints are sealed with thin slats. There should be a distance of about 3 cm between the vapor barrier and the mineral wool.
4. The lining is placed on a vertical sheathing 30–50 mm wide. The remaining distance thus creates a gap for ventilation.

This method is proven, but labor-intensive. Now building materials can greatly simplify the entire insulation process. Modern heat insulators combine several properties at once: insulation and waterproofing. Foil foam is just such a material. This insulation has high fire resistance, easy to use and install.

The described scheme is well suited for a timber bathhouse. Panel and frame buildings have their own characteristics of wall insulation. For insulation panel walls Light materials are used: polystyrene foam, reed slabs, mineral wool. An additional requirement in this case is to treat the heat insulator with lime milk and then dry it thoroughly. This will protect the material from rotting and increase fire resistance.

A bathhouse with frame walls in cold climates is insulated with fiberboard or reed slabs. If the area has a warmer climate, then you can use gypsum, sawdust, cement and shavings. To insulate walls, make a mixture, for example, of sawdust and gypsum (proportion 1 to 10). The resulting mixture is poured between the wall sheathing in a layer of 200 mm.

Windows, doors, corners and pipes require special attention. To treat the joints in these places, you can use vapor barrier tape. This way you will be sure that the waterproofing layer will not allow moisture to pass through.

Insulating a steam room from the inside: procedure for working on the ceiling

Thermal insulation of the bathhouse from the inside is completed by insulating the ceiling. The ceiling has the highest temperature, which can reach 160 °C. Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with your own hands is a process that depends on its design. The ceiling can be with an attic or with another superstructure on top and without an attic.

If the building has an attic or attic, the insulation process is as follows: the ceiling boards must be coated with a 20 mm layer of clay. Clay effectively copes with the task of retaining moisture. You need to fill the gaps between the boards with wood chips. You can use any other material that has thermal insulation properties, such as expanded clay. The layer of such coating must be at least 200 mm.

In bathhouses without an attic, be it a log or panel building, the insulation scheme looks something like this: material for vapor barrier, insulation, layer of sheathing, beams, ceiling boards. The order of the layers of ceiling insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands will be different depending on the design of the room and the materials used.

Particular attention should always be paid to the junction of the pipe and insulation. In order not to violate fire safety standards, it is necessary to make a space of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material. This problem can be solved by constructing rafter legs a box that will separate the pipe and insulation on the roof. The space inside the box is filled with fire-resistant insulation, such as stone wool.

In any case, the roof and ceiling of your bathhouse must be designed so that there are simply no places through which warm air can leave the room, and the cold one can get outside. The main goal is also to avoid condensation. Moisture is, first of all, the enemy of building materials.

Not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation. It is not recommended to use thermal insulation made of plywood, chipboard or fiberboard, etc. Such materials may become deformed and release harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures. Plastic ceilings there will also be bad decision– condensation will accumulate on them. It is better to use natural insulation or mineral heat insulators.

Have you decided to insulate the bathhouse from the inside yourself, but you have no experience in this matter? Help and advice from specialists will always come in handy. Check out the available information: photos, videos, master classes on this issue. All this can be useful. The following recommendations for insulating a bathhouse with your own hands will not be amiss:

• It must be remembered that the insulation of a bathhouse differs from the process of thermal insulation of other buildings. This is due to high temperature and humidity.
• When insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside, a number of rules should be followed:

1. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks and voids, insulation must be laid very tightly to the wall. Thus, the likelihood of cold air entering and the formation of condensation moisture will be reduced;
2. We should not forget about the ventilation gap, which will ensure drying of the insulation;
3. it is necessary to treat the floors with a wood antiseptic to protect them from destruction.

• When insulating the ceiling, you should not forget that:
  1. at the top is the highest air temperature;
  2. To insulate the ceiling, you cannot use materials that can be deformed;
  3. You cannot use insulation and vapor barriers that release harmful chemicals when exposed to temperature;
  4. Plastic materials collect condensation moisture.
• When insulating a bath room from the inside, use safe, high-quality and environmentally friendly materials.
• When working, follow safety regulations.